SUPER TUSCANS KINGS OF THE HILL

n a repeat of the 1976 Judgment of Paris where unknown Californian wines beat in blind tastings by top critics the likes of high-end Burgundy and Bordeaux sacrosanct names, a similar blind tasting event in 1978 organised by Decanter Magazine would see an off-the-radar newbie recently commercialized vino da tavola or table wine from a rather swampy backwater coastal wasteland of Bolgheri gain international recognition and shoot to fame as Sassicaia won the hearts of critics in preference to Bordeaux left bank first growths, writes Kris Bonavita.

Sassicaia from Tenuta San Guido was born from the ingenious idea of a lesser-known cousin of the Marchesi Antinori, who around the 1950s wishing to mimic the Bordeaux blend greats, thought that his lands of stony gravels; similar to the left bank Pauillac of Rothschild and Latour fame; was perfect for French varieties with an obvious focus on Cabernet Sauvignon. Breaking all the traditional Chianti rules he kept his wines strictly for personal consumption and it was only under the legendary winemaker Giacomo Tachis that a more refined version was deemed worth commercialising with the vintage of 1968, upon which both the popular term Super Tuscan and the appellation Bolgheri were gradually established with reference to revered wines to be collected, drunk and savoured upon by wine aficionados the world over.

It would take a few more decades for the appellations Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia in their own right to be established in 1994, making both some of the most cutting edge regions in defying traditional rules and yet compellingly old school in their style of ageworth refined wines. Within that setting both are synonymous with the rise of the Super Tuscan term as not defined by a specific grape variety or locale but rather working on the buccaneer spirit of winemakers choosing, growing and blending grapes for the right soils and climate to create wines inspired by an international wine style far from the more indigenous varietals used in the iconic Chianti or Brunello identikits. So while Chiantis and Brunellos have a familiar spectrum of flavour profiles and soil typologies which can easily be summed up around known parameters; Super Tuscans by their very nature are humbling and steep learning curve wine journeys where inspired vine growers and winemakers have the task of simply creating wines as almost works of art regardless of the rules and regulations.

Probably affectionately coined by American journalists, who refused to call them humble table wines, the Super Tuscan can be a blend or a single varietal cuvée made usually from Sangiovese and/or Bordeaux/international grape varieties; chiefly Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot or even Syrah. In a spirit of rebellion winemakers in the 60s and 70s frustrated by the strict rules governing Chianti wine laws experimented with grape varieties on the vast diversity of Tuscan soils and balmy climatic settings so perfect for the production of great wine. Unlike lighter-styled Chiantis or the purist Brunellos limited to Montalcino, Super Tuscans gain their stripes solely from popular accreditation with the only legal condition of coming from Tuscany’s wine regions. Unable to use the D.O.C. nomination and boldly creating blends with more full-bodied and intense flavours, some require good aging even if surprisingly lovable on the young side. It was only as late as 1992 that the IGT label was finally created to reflect and assure the quality these wines attained allowing them to be labeled as originating in Tuscany regardless of their variety or blend composition.