€3 WHERE SOLD VAMP MAGAZINE AUTUMN – 2018
ISSUE
#35
Four–ish things you need to know about festival fasion
A story of oversized layering, a play on retro prints and a full on street attitude
“ In the midst of winter I found there was, within me, an invincible summer” – Albert Camus
++++ ECHO CHAMBER > BANKSY > STYLE FILE > JAMES REKA > FITZROY LOFT > A_18 TRENDS > PEMBA ISLAND > STREET FUSION ++++
The Point, Sliema calvinklein.com
Available at HEBE Malta International Airport
Available at HEBE Malta International Airport
The world is watching #SWATCHTHIS The world is watching #SWATCHTHIS Available at HEBE Malta International Airport
Cover Credits: Photography: Matthew Spiteri Styling: Malcolm Gauci Make Up: Amanda Greaves using Flormar Hair: Neville Zammit Model: Sacha at ModelsM
The Street Issue: As the season turns, we are taking fashion, design and architecture to the streets with an added dose of colour. This issue was inspired by James Reka, a graffiti turned gallery artist who was recently visiting our tiny shores. As the festival season draws to an end, Rachel Ripard highlights the most pivotal festival fashion trends. Then take note of our style files, as our VAMP team takes you through our autumn styles to hit the streets with this season. Join stylist Malcolm Gauci as he dives into an urban groove with oversized layering for a full on street
Editorial VAMP Editorial Team Creative Director Chris Psaila Contributing Editor Carla Grima Copy Writer Hanna Cremona Photographers Matthew B Spiteri Sean Mallia
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Stylist Malcolm Gauci Jeandor Farrugia Sales Manager Sam Psaila 7788 0300 Sales Sam Psaila 7788 0300 Keeley Bajada 9996 0446
attitude. And finally, the kids are back with some serious city jamming styles, fusing fashion and music from a young age. We then turn our focus on a more technology based form of expression - Memes. Although they have been around for a few years, the Vamp team was rather clueless about their growth and use within social media. Rest assured that we are now well informed, thanks to 2 articles in this issue that touch on the subject - ‘Memes, the cream of digital culture’ and ‘Controversial Beauty.’
contemporary inspiration from Japan to Australia, accompanied by jaw dropping visuals of the House in Miyamoto and Fitzroy Loft. Our international journey continues in Tanzinia, exploring an Indian Ocean Paradise. A dreamy getaway for the quieter and colder months ahead. This colourful issue comes to a close with tantalizing street food recipes from all corners of the med right into your hands. All brought to you by the Corinthia Hotel. So sit back, relax and enjoy our street journey of colour and culture!
Our interior pages are overflowing with
Contributors Rachel Ripard Amanda Greaves Neville Zammit James Reka Ana Matkova Anna Marie Galea Sera Galea Matthew Spiteri Claire Giordamina Reuben Borg Stefan Hogan
Mark Mc Bride Tato Architects Yo Shimada Vladimir Konovalov Chanel Galea This magazine is published by [ V ] Publications also publishers of Served Magazine + / The Malta Artpaper
Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise. While we endeavour to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances. Copyright 2018
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019. STRIVING FOR A POLITICAL RENAISSANCE:
A collection of emerging Autumn trends.
023. STYLE FILES A_18
A collection of emerging Autumn trends.
030. THE CREAM OF DIGITAL CULTURE
Ana takes a look back at the evolution of memes and how these viral visuals are taking the virtual world by storm.
32. FESTIVAL FEVER
Must-have items that’ll immediately brighten up your festival outfit.
036. STREET SESSION
Stylist Malcolm Gauci shows us the latest trends and layering tricks for the warm months ahead.
050. STREET ART: AN ACT OF DEFIANCE
A look into Banksy’s latest controversial masterpiece.
058. JAMES REKA
Vamp chats with Graffiti artist Rekka about his transition from street to gallery.
064. FITZROY LOFT
Contemporary living in the heart of Melbourne.
070. HOUSE IN MIYAMOTO
A journey into Japanese interior architecture
078. STREET FUSION
An eclectic mix of flavours from around the globe, brought to you by Corinthia’s Summer Kitchen.
084. CONTROVERSIAL BEAUTY
An exploration of the contrasting nature of previous and current beauty standards...
086. PEMBA ISLAND
Inspiring your travels with an indian ocean paradise.
093. An AGE OLD QUESTION
How to design age-sensitive products and services.
100. KIDS TRENDS
A city shoot filled with colour, music and the coolest kids in town.
115. EDITOR’S BEAUTY PICKS A_18
The latest beauty products to get you looking your best this season.
THE STREET ISSUE 011
UPDATE
ISSUE # 35
BOSS THE SCENT Boss The Scent Private Accord For Her emphasizes the original addictive note of Cocoa with the mysterious and irresistible charms of Dark Cocoa. With your purchase of a BOSS The Scent 100ml and above, receive an exclusive HUGO BOSS Pouch for Him or for Her. While supplies last. Available form SV Beauty Tel: 8007 2387
ELECTRIC MOBILITY IS SMART The Smart EQ makes opting for electric mobility more attractive than ever because it combines the agility and style of the smart car with emission-free driving. The Smart EQ has a driving range of approximately 160km from a full battery charge [Malta is only 27km long]. Smart’s EQ models qualify for the governments electric grant of €6000, which lowers the smart EQ ForTwo starting cost to €20,700 and the Smart EQ ForFour to €21,700. Book a test drive on www.autosales.com.mt or by visiting the smart showroom at Kind’s – Auto Sales Ltd.
MAX QUEST _ THE LAUNCH PARTY To mark the end of a successful summer and celebrate the upcoming launch of marquee game Max Quest: Wrath of Ra, Betsoft Gaming hosted a glamorous evening at the Sheer Bastion in Senglea. Over a hundred industry professionals gathered together for an enjoyable evening of drinks, canapes and ongoing entertainment.
ARTPAPER. #4 OUT NOW artpaper. #4 is out now, bringing together Malta and the world, through art. Created for and by those who understand that art can better the world, artpaper. is supported by various academics, art professionals and companies in Malta and abroad, and aims to be a source of inspiration, discussion and information. Available at all 8 Till late, WH Smith and Agenda.
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UPDATE
NIKE STRENGTHENS MARKET PRESENCE IN THE AFRICA Hudson Group continues to develop its Malta logistics hub as the group extends NIKE representation in 30 African countries until 2023. This extension was celebrated during a Press Conference as well as a ‘NIKE – Think Sport’ themed staff event at Hugo’s Infinity, St Julian’s, Malta. From its first pair of NIKE shoes sold in 1987, the group has expanded and entrusted with the African region and also represents a number of other popular sportswear and fashion brands and franchises.
SCANDAL BY NIGHT JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Jean Paul Gaultier presents Scandal by Night: the friend of the night. It’s the scent of freedom, a Honey Tuberose. Scandal is still there with its honey, but now partying with its intoxicating tuberose, sandalwood and tonka bean. An even more addictive blend. Exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd 21 331 553
PRADA BLACK Prada Luna Rossa Black is like a vivacious hub full of possibilities and dangers. Sweeter details fizz over woody Amber for a mesmerizing effect. Energetic upon introduction, topped with Bergamot and Angelic, a Patchouli Coumarine heart gives way to a moody base. Exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd T: 21 331 553
BELLA BY NINA RICCI Bella is a sexy indulgence with an affirmed personality. Subtle fruity flavour of Rhubarb is made irresistible by a bold zest of green mandarin and a caress of vanilla. Rose is deployed with Turkish rose oil and rose absolute. Freesia provides luminosity and freshness. Exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd T: 21 331 553
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A BRILLIANT ORGANIC CIDER Dunkertons Organic Black Fox Cider has fragrant notes of traditional cider apple varieties which have been carefully blended together to give a deliciously robust cider leaving your mouth full of lively sweet and tangy after tastes. Translucent in colour with light golden honey hues. Dunkertons Ciders are organic, gluten free and suitable for vegans. Available in selected bars, restaurants and supermarkets. Imported and distributed by DM Imports +356 9989 1543
Exclusively represented by C+M Marketing Ltd. Tel: 2142 4079
SLIEMA 46-48 Tower Road Tel. 21 341 961
UP DAT E
Though we live in a virtual world, where we meet, talk and socialize behind a screen, this only takes us so far. It is only in real life that the senses can intertwine. Sight. Sound. Touch. Smell. The truth is, nothing competes with the chemistry created in real life. We cannot stay behind our screens any longer. We must disconnect and act on our impulses. A LEGACY OF SEDUCTION BOSS Parfums debuted its definition of seduction in 2015 with the introduction of BOSS THE SCENT. In its truest form, seduction is a two-way encounter.
BOSS THE SCENT
GET CLOSER TO THE POWER OF REALITY THE NEW CAMPAIGN The campaign will be brought to life by talented new fragrance ambassadors actor Jamie Dornan and model Brigit Kos. In a film by Drake Doremus, the pair will take on the roles of the BOSS man and woman, as they experience an augmented sensuality. Triggered by the sensorial power of BOSS THE SCENT, they begin their encounter behind VR masks. Despite this barrier, they connect. The physical chemistry between them grows. Easing their transition from one world to the other, BOSS THE SCENT acts as the bridge between the virtual and real. As their senses intertwine, they get closer until they realize they must detach from their virtual realities to connect in the real world. As part of the new chapter, a multi-platform digital campaign will challenge consumers to disconnect from their screens to reconnect with their senses. To create memorable experiences that combine the virtual and the real on their own journeys of seduction.
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CURRENT
Words: Julian Cardona
ST RIVIN G FO R A PO L I TI CA L RE NA I SSA NC E : How Na t i ona l E le c t i o ns S houl d S tar t in C l assrooms.
Last week Moviment Graffitti activists held a demonstration during a PA meeting to protest the authorities’ lack of review of an ODZ fuel station policy. Controversy ignited when members of the RIU used, some might argue, harsh methods to forcibly remove the protestors who were pressing their points loudly but peacefully. The video of their manhandling rapidly went viral and thousands of comments flooded in. As always, situations like this place a magnifying glass on certain features of the Maltese society. Some are worrying. It is not the purpose of this article to discuss the merits of the whether the RIU’s methods were justified; the footage is there for everyone to see and stir up their own conclusions. The goal here is to analyse the partisan-motivated nature of a large percentage
of the comments of the Maltese public, and the implications of this on our future as a nation. Many of these partisanminded accusers took this protest as an attack on the “their” government and “their” country, not realising (or not wanting to realise) that those protestors were fighting everyone’s fight as they tried to stop this greed-fuelled war on our ODZ. Some comments that were floated around were disturbing: wishing that the police had taken it further by using tasers and pepper sprays. Some even suggested that the protestors should have been kicked in the face as they are the scum of society. It is clear that these Keyboard Ninjas have no love for the country, but only misguided loyalty towards their parties who fulfil their God-knows-what expectations. >>
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CURRENT
... “Having taught for almost ten years at every level of the Maltese educational system, it has always been clear to me that Education authorities intend for politics to remain a taboo in our classrooms”... First off, let me make one point very clear: it is not just a right, but a duty, to protest peacefully in a Democracy. Moviment Graffitti should be an inspiration to anyone wanting to fulfil a meaningful role in our nation, as well as a timely reminder that Democracy is not an electoral process every few years but an exercise of dialogue, criticism and, most importantly, selfregeneration. There can never be any self-regeneration without objective, non-politically-motivated government criticism. Within the last sentence lies the problem: it seems that nonpolitically-motivated government criticism is a rare commodity on this island, and when it does happen by those of good will, it is often ridiculed, doubted, or wrongly decried as “being negative or sour grapes”. Now, saying that Malta is highly polarized when it comes to politics is obviously nothing new: everyone knows that this is one of our most severe societal diseases, happily perpetuated by the major parties. What we should all be talking about however is the role of education in enforcing this damaging status quo. When it comes to politics, our schools are failing us. Big Time. Having taught for almost ten years at every level of the Maltese educational system, it has always been clear to me that Education authorities intend for politics to remain a taboo in our classrooms. God forbid we ruffle the feathers of these partyaficionados. Yes, we teach Social Studies, Civics and Political History, and many students come out at the age of sixteen knowing the dates of Malta’s Independence and EU entrance, the existence of some strange men called Mintoff and Fenech Adami and that every five years we have entertaining TV fights after which we indulge in our beloved traditions of carcading and street-littering. But this sorry excuse for political “education” is too little to stop the far stronger tide of miseducation that children receive in their homes where they are indoctrinated daily on the glory of one party and the horrors of the other. Some, almost cheerfully, will tell you that “that’s just the way we Maltese are.” This is wrong on many levels, and if schools don’t wage war on this celebration of ignorance, no one will. Schools should set aside one or two hours every week to organize healthy, organized debates. This should not be optional,
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but official, just like Maths and English are official. Having experienced Debate Clubs at a secondary school myself, I can testify to their enormous contribution in making young students appreciate different opinions. The ingredients of a good class debate are simple: take a subject that’s taboo, like hunting, political authority or religious education, and make the students take the side of the argument they would normally oppose. The result is a beauty: you will get young students understanding that their opinion (or their parents’) is not the Gold Standard and that every point of view has merits and should be respected. They will also learn how to construct a cohesive argument based on facts and not passion; they will, perhaps most importantly, learn that they have a voice and they are well capable of making it heard. To those who tell me that they might be too young for this, I happily tell them that they are wrong! I’ve witnessed eleven-year olds research mature subjects and outline pros and cons far better than most adults would. Trust me on this: if we make such debates common practice, and make students challenge their own position on sensitive subjects, we are going to have a far better society in 10-15 years’ time; a society in which we attack arguments and not people; a society in which peaceful protestors are lauded, no matter which political party they are criticizing. What happens if we don’t? The answer is that we will continue to see what we are seeing today: young people, fresh out of university, being attracted to the world of politics for the wrong reasons: hatred for the opposing party fuelled by years of family brainwashing. Of course, if you take one of these youngsters in a corner and ask them why they do it, they are going to start blabbering recycled and rehearsed BS about love for the country and Principles, yet some of them don’t even know they are victims. These deplorables (just to use another recycled phrase) will grow up to be one-track-minded parents who continue to churn one-track-minded children in that horrible Maltese factory of biasedness falsely called Patriotism. Have you ever wondered why KSU elections have become so nasty? Yes, it’s all leaked toxic material from that same factory. The greater danger is that when such a virus continues to spread, good people who are worthy of being called patriotic end up being repelled by politics and choose the equally unfortunate route of political passiveness, believing that nothing will ever change. This is exactly what major political parties want: Social alienation. When people are alienated and major lies are whitewashed by small, carefully selected truths, you get the corrupt leaders of this world, ready to start recolouring the multi-shaded and multicultural flag of Democracy with the Black of false Nationalism better referred to as Fascism. [ V ]
BISAZZA STREET SLIEMA TIGNE STREET SLIEMA
S TYLE FILE
Autum n _ 2018
‘Not Your Average Pastels’ Soft calming tones are re-entering our autumn wardrobes. Match these with creams and skin tones to keep this look as pure as possible.
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1. Jumper, €49.99, NOOS. 2. Sneakers, €429, MaxMara. 3. Hat, €139, MaxMara . 4. Vogue Sunglasses, €148, Vision Opticians Pavi. 5. Top, €35.99, Mango. 6. Jumper, €25.99, Jennyfer. 7. Blouse, €60, Monsoon.
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S TYLE FILE
Autum n _ 2018
‘Street Slogans’ Add a little edge to your street look with a Slogan Tee. Let it spell out your identity.
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1. Top, €9.99, Mango. 2. Emporio Armani Sunglasses, €167, Vision Opticians Hamrun. 3. Top, €7.99, Jennyfer. 4. Sweatshirt, €17.99, Jennyfer. 5. Top, €12.99, Mango. 6. Sneakers, €39.99, Mango. 7. Watch, Lady Buzz, €75, HEBE Malta International Airport.
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STYLE FILE
A utum n _ 2018
‘Street Luxe’ Bringing a sporty street edge to your daily casuals. The key for this look is comfy knit fabrics.
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1. Dress, €49.99, NOOS. 2. Prada Sunglasses, €315, Sun glass & Sunglass Valletta. 3. Gillet, €49.99, NOOS. 4. Jumper, €49.99, NOOS. 5. Trench, €99.99, NOOS. 6. Beanie, €15.90 , Accezzorize. 7. Trousers, €19.99, Jennyfer.
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SLIEMA - VALLETTA - MAIN STREET, POALA - PAMA - BAY STREET PAVI & THE DUKE, GOZO
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A utum n _ 2018
‘End of the Rainbow’ Runway’s have taken inspiration from the LGBTQ+ community and turned this into a colourful trend palette. Let’s show our love by adding a little extra rainbow drops to our wardrobes. 1.
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1. Blouse, €64, Monsoon. 2. Dolce & Gabbana Sunglasses, €285, Sunglass & Sunglass - Valletta 3. Dress, €169, Monsoon. 4. Bag, €765, MaxMara. 5. Shirt, €20, M&S. 6. Shawl, €89, MaxMara 7. Blouse, €34, M&S.
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CULTURE
Words: Ana Matkova
Memes: the cream of digital culture.
You know what a meme is, right? It is more than just a funny GIF; a viral visual that spreads all around the world like a harmless virus. Memes are defined as humorous images, videos or text that are comedic expressions of public feelings on many topics such as politics, international events and public figures, but also tackle love, sex and daily life. Often serious subjects are approached with a purely amusing perspective through memes. The term was coined by Richard Dawkins years before the World Wide Web even existed. Dawkins is a distinguished evolutionary biologist and writer, a science insider who’s a cultural meme himself. “Anything that’s copied in this case from brain to brain. It could be something like a tune that you whistle, somebody else picks up the tune - whistles again and it spreads then like an epidemic. Anything that is imitated, going viral… Some memes spread better than others, that’s kind of a natural selection”, says Grandpa Meme who invented the word and gives you a giggle every time he says it. If you want to know more about the origin of the word ‘meme’ look for his book ‘The Selfish Gene’. Alternative sentence: Grab Dawkin’s book ‘The Selfish Gene’ to know more about the origin of the word ‘meme’. The God of memes made his
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own jump from the evolution of genes, to the evolution of ideas. Like genes, memes have effects beyond themselves. As they broadcast their influence on the world, in the same time they are affecting their own chances of survival. Luckily, a few months ago EU decided to save Wikipedia and internet memes, so our beloved ones won’t be banned (at least not for now). Why do We Keep Clicking Them? And how have they become so popular and powerful? In the early 21st century, Internet memes gained popularity and spread from person to person through imitation, typically by email, social media and various types of websites. The word ‘meme’ has changed since its’ creation by Dawkins. It now refers, in Internet language, to pictures, sounds, videos or websites that are shared from person to person through Facebook, Twitter, Youtube, Tumblr, Reddit, etc. Memes have the capacity for digital reproduction. Each meme is the product of an individual who changed the image and the text to give it a specific meaning. While at first their creation may seem as distraction from office boredom, their cultural relevance is also important. The Maltese memes facebook page ‘Memes Maltin’ doesn’t hold
CULT URE
“In this mad world, often humour is the best way to deal with the scandals and uproars of our time.”
back in their satirical approach. They are making fun at all spheres of Malta’s life and have also been accused of destroying the political correctness that definitely brings joy and surreal escapism to many on a daily basis. The ‘Meming’ of Life Malta’s first Meme exhibition, with around 700 memes exhibited, celebrated the official opening of the UnderGround Sound (UGS) office. The concept behind the event was well accepted by most guests, despite those few who could not understand it; but hey, that’s art! In the words of the curator, Ian Hinksman: “It’s also a way of dealing with the world’s turmoil with comedy. If you don’t laugh you will cry.” “The Meming of Life” saluted online cultures, subcultures and
their significance in our daily life. The intention was to show how memes have moved a long way from websites and how they have become a communication tool. The exhibition raised questions and few answers like how can memes survive without the Internet? “In this mad world, often humour is the best way to deal with the scandals and uproars of our time,” says Hinksman. “They’re hilarious and you really wonder what goes through people’s head as they make them. Life would be ‘memingless’ and life without memes would leave a barren wasteland on the Internet. Let’s face it: most of us are on the Internet for three reasons: Social Media. Porn. Memes”. If you’ve missed the exhibition and didn’t take a memelord selfie on their throne, they will be back at select parties very soon with The Meming Of Life-Memes On Tour. [ V ]
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FOUR-ISH THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FESTIVAL FASHION.
A FOOL-PROOF GUIDE TO STEPPING UP YOUR FESTIVAL WARDROBE.
he struggle is real and subsequently over; the festival season is drawing to a close and we can all take a step back and re-evaluate our festival fashion in all of its skimpy glory. If you sported one of these statement pieces then you know you did it absolutely right. So was your festival fashion on point or nah? This year the festivals on our little rock boomed bigger and better than ever before, which means the festival fashion bar has well and truly been raised. Listing four of our most pivotal standout trends of the season.
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Words + Images: Rachel Ripard
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The Four Festival F’s. Fur, Feathers, Fedora & Fringe.
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Image: Tiffany
Whether you’re headed to Burning Man or The Bubble these four festival F’s are staples in any pro-partiers wardrobe. I think it’s safe to say that with any of these two elements included in your attire you’re going to fit right in. Thing is, what happens to those of us who don’t want to ‘fit in’ to the usual festival uniform? Well that brings me to my next point…
Heavenly headpieces
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In case you weren’t aware, the headpiece is the most vital element of any festival look. With a headpiece you have the opportunity to stun, and oh boy there really are no limits to how far you can go. I mean literally some of these things are pretty tall. Forget a flower crown and think more along the lines of a full-blown carnival. These structures are amazing! Any and all sizes of pompoms acceptable, feather’s in abundance and the longer the tassel the more legitimate. The point of the headpiece my friends, is much like the point of the wings, dream on.
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Calling all catsuit queens.
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Whether long, short, tight or baggy, the catsuit was made to make an impact! Festivalgoers, the world over, have adopted the one piece as their ‘go to’ this season. From skintight constellations to candy cane-esque shimmering creations, the catsuit is sure to turn a few heads. Not only will you look like the most fashionable superhero around but those super stretchy materials are going to make you feel like one too. A look that’s going to get you through a long day of dancing and turn you into a disco ball as the sun sets, what’s bad about that? Absolutely nothing.
The weird, wacky and the wonderful; wings.
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For those unopposed to a little bit of eccentricity, a grand pair of festival wings is the way to go. Remember not all wings are the same; there’s a style for literally everyone. Welcome to 2018 where it’s never been easier to find an adult sized pair of wings that fit your festival personality to a tee. Want to feel like ‘Tinker Bell’ for the day? Or channel your inner Khaleesi with a pair of menacing dragon wings? Hell… get yourself a pair of bedazzled angel wings to compliment your outfit and there’ll be no need to even get near the red bull. Just thank your lucky stars that you get to wear wings in public without people thinking that you’ve officially lost it; you’re allowed, you’re at a festival! On most days the majority of our planets’ inhabitants wake up, go to work, come home and repeat. Summer is here to remind us of the important things in life. Those moments that really matter, and at a festival we take the opportunity to live our best life…why? Because we can. Wild festival fashion is more than just that; it is the expression of freedom, even if just for a couple of days we should all have the chance to let the kid in us come out to play. [ V ] T H E S T R E E T I S S U E 037
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Photography: Matthew Spiteri Styling: Malcolm Gauci Make Up: Amanda Greaves using Flormar Hair: Neville Zammit Model: Sacha at ModelsM
Dress, €82.00, Monsoon. Blazer, €29.99, Jennyfer. Gloves, €10.00, M&S.
A story of oversized layering, a play on retro prints and a full on street attitude
Dress, €59.99. Boots, €69.99. All available at Mango. Jacket, €49.99, Noos.
Shirt, €17.99, Jennyfer. Jacket, €95.00, M&S. Scarf stylist’s own.
Boots, €159.99, Mango. Shirt, €125, Maxmara. Dress, €270, Maxmara.
Left: Jumpsuit, €69.99. Top, €12.99. Beret, €19.99. All available at Mango. Right: Shirt, €25.99, Jennyfer. Top, €27.00, Vans, Urban Jungle. Skirt, €49.99, Mango. Earrings, €15.99, Mango.
Left: Jumper, €29.99, Jennyfer. Shirt, €260, Carla Grima. Skirt, €65.00, M&S. Right: Shirt, €260, Carla Grima.Trousers, €270, Carla Grima. Scarf is stylist’s own. Leather Bag By ISA TanTech Limited
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Fall _ 2018
‘Sporting Art’ In keeping with this issue’s street art theme, we have hit the urban sports rails to bring you some art inspired looks for your active autumn days. Get the look with an overload of colour and street art prints. Keep your shorts long and baggy and always finish off your look with a cap!
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1. Jordans Cap, €36. 2. Air Max 270 Trainers, €155. 3. Nike Windrunner Jacket, €78. 4. Nike Cap, €23. 5. Jordans Trainers, €165. 6. Nike T-shirt, €36. 7. Jordans Hoodie, €104. 8. Jordan Shorts, €51. – Available at Urban Jungle, Tigne Point.
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STYLE FILE
Calvin Klein Fall 2018 Global Advertising Campaign: Landscapes
Images: ©2018 Willy Vanderperre
The Fall 2018 Calvin Klein 205W39NYC global advertising campaign suggests a new dawn is on the horizon. This season explores the familiar American landscape through an otherworldly lens, challenging the perception of the real and the imagined. “The Fall 2018 collection is an allegory for a meeting of old worlds and new worlds, relating to the discovery of America, the 1960s Space Race, and the twenty-first century information age. Reflecting the notion of democracy, there is no cultural hierarchy: the mixes emancipate clothing and references from their meanings, from their own narratives, and collage them to discover something different - a different dream.” — Raf Simons, Chief Creative Officer, Calvin Klein In a series of images lensed by Willy Vanderperre, a play of scale presents a juxtaposition between the product and the isolated Utah landscape, evoking a nostalgic yet otherworldly feeling. A sense of calm and hope are also present, capturing the ever-present theme of American youth. Conceived in partnership with Lloyd & Co., the campaign features talents Lulu Tenney, Julia Nobis, Freja Beha, Liya Kebede, Erin O’Connor, Fernando Albaladejo, and Luca Lemaire, as styled by Olivier Rizzo.
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The multi-media advertising campaign will be featured globally across print, digital, social and high impact outdoor locations. To complement the campaign storytelling, extended digital content will also be featured across social platforms throughout the fall season. About Calvin Klein Calvin Klein is a global lifestyle brand that exemplifies bold, progressive ideals and a seductive, and often minimal, aesthetic. We seek to thrill and inspire our audience while using provocative imagery and striking designs to ignite the senses. Founded in 1968 by Calvin Klein and his business partner Barry Schwartz, we have built our reputation as a leader in American fashion through our clean aesthetic and innovative designs. Global retail sales of Calvin Klein brand products exceeded $8 billion in 2016 and were distributed in 110 countries. Calvin Klein, Inc. employs over 10,000 associates globally. We were acquired by PVH Corp. in 2003.
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Its very hard to describe the feeling of reading that someone you know is killed from the newspapers, nearly every day. It was a day like this we heard that the daughter of a friend in our prison was killed in Afrin. The same day, we learned that another prisoner killed herself by “ hanging herself with shoelace “. It was a day full of deaths. In days like these, one can’t endure living. During our daily debates, we were saying “ no one sees that we are right and we are being crushed, destroyed by massacres .Even if they see, no one does anything and everyone stays silent. We are living a lie in a fictional life “.Moments later, a friend got the newspapers that are delivered and we saw your artwork about Nusaybin and me, that protests the whole imprisonment . In a moment of pessimism, your support made me and my friends here enormous happiness.
First of all, i’d like to tell you about the atmosphere here. We were getting furious because of the horrible sounds of dozens of fighter jets that depart for bombing our beautiful lands, mountains and cities. We are hearing this sound nearly once an hour. We know that every fighter jet is killing our sisters, brothers, relatives and animals in a short distance.
Dear Banksy, I’m writing this illegal letter to you from a dungeon which has history of bloody tortures, in a town with a lot of bans , in a denied country . The letter is illegal, because I have “communications ban”that forbids me from sending letters or making phone calls so I’m writing and delivering this letter in clandestine ways. STREET ART
Zehra Dogan writing from Diyarbakir Prison,
South East Turkey ( translated and abridged)
Because its worth it.
I cant thank you and Barf enough. I couldnt imagine that my painting will be projected in a city like New York. I spend 12 hours a day imagining and this is even beyond my imagination. I feel stronger and now I’m painting Afrin.
People hear me more than ever and while the rulers in these lands that speak the same language with me( because they forced us to learn Turkish )doesn’t understand me, the people in different lands that speaks different languages understand me. Art is a meaning of communication far beyond language.
What makes this country, that slaughters the people who stand up against oppression, fears the most is showing the reality just like a mirror to them. And with your support, my painting now accomplished its mission of showing the atrocities. I was surprised when they accused me by” Leading people to rebellion, rage and hatred “ because of my painting. But now, i say” This painting was worth my time in prison because I managed to show the reality of Nusaybin .”
Far away from me and our people, it was the best reply to the crooked regime that cant even tolerate a painting.
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STREET ART
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Words: Sera Galea
An Act of Defiance
Photo: Anne Sraders
For some, admiring art only feels right at formal exhibitions and museums. Yet others argue that art can be found at any location, and in any shape or form. In fact, sometimes an artistic masterpiece can be found in the unlikeliest of places.
Street art is a form of artistic expression that aims to reflect humanity’s needs and desires, often promoting human rights, equality and justice, even if it means going against the grain. In some countries such as Turkey, street art is controversial, as freedom of expression is often stifled by those in power. Multiple artists express their views in their creations. Banksy, a well-known and anonymous street-artist, does just that. His work can be found across the globe, but is mainly prominent in the United Kingdom, the US and even in Jerusalem.
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Banksy’s works usually have a powerful message, aiming to expose the truth. His work is allowing people to no longer be left in the dark about vital information that is being censored by powerful entities. This is exactly what happened when Banksy and street artist Borf joined forces and used the Houston Bowery Wall in New York City as their canvas, to share journalist Zehra Dogan’s story. Their 70-foot creation marked Banksy’s first artistic return to the Big Apple since 2013. >>
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S TREET ART
reminder that her loved ones are in the midst of chaos and peril. Zehra reflects on the daily struggles she endures as she boldly battles her way through the feeling of pessimism and the tragic situation she is immersed in. She also addresses how she must deal with a whirlwind of emotions on a daily basis: grief, anger, solitude and hope. The latter is an emotion that she rarely used to experience prior to her discovery of Banksy’s mural dedicated to her and Nusaybin. She expresses her gratitude towards Banksy in her letter; ‘In a moment of pessimism, your support gave me and my friends here enormous happiness. Far away from myself and our people, it was the best reply to a crooked regime that can’t even tolerate a painting.’
Zehra Dogan was sentenced to three years in prison for painting a realistic portrayal of the Turkish city Nusaybin after its demolition by Turkish security forces. After she posted her watercolour on social media, the government accused the 29-year-old activist of producing terrorist propaganda in her painting. Banksy’s mural, located in Manhattan, displays the number of days Dogan must spend in prison as of her initial sentencing date; 21st July 2016. An image of innocent Dogan behind bars and the words ‘Free Zehra Dogan’ are also part of the colossal artwork. Any individual who analyses this piece of art will immediately notice its striking transparency. Banksy and Borf want to show the harsh reality of Nusaybin by also displaying Dogan’s painting, which is projected above the mural at night. Thus, viewers of the mural learn how the young journalist is not guilty of what she was accused of.
Zehra Dogan’s story is only one example of how art can be used as a medium of expression for the silenced. Street art is relatable, since it’s easily accessible and it gives hope to its spectators as it gave hope to Dogan. As she concludes her letter, Dogan writes how she aspires to create new paintings which mirror the reality and brutality in places like Afrin, a Syrian region that was taken over by Syrian Rebel forces, heavily supported by the Turkish military. “I feel stronger and now I’m painting Afrin.” >>
Following the contemporary artists’ creation in New York City, the imprisoned activist managed to get in touch with Banksy by writing him a letter. In her letter (which Banksy posted a photo of on Instagram) Zehra immediately states; ‘This letter is illegal because I have a ‘communications ban’ that forbids me from sending letters or making phone calls so I’m writing and delivering this letter in clandestine ways.’ This statement makes one question the conditions prisoners like Donga live in. We should value our freedom of expression; often we are unaware of how even when we think we can freely express our opinions, there is a risk of being censored. She continues her heartfelt letter by depicting her surroundings, emphasising auditory and visual details. She describes how every bomb she hears and every news article she reads is a
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STREET ART
Photo: Houston Bowery Wall
In states where there is frequent censorship of art, conceptual art gains a minor audience, since it is either redacted or only confined to private galleries or intellectual gatherings. The rise of street art internationally is slowly challenging censorship, but some states try to hinder both the individual and collective power of ordinary people, by censoring art in public spaces. Thankfully, in many parts of the world, street art is no longer considered ‘vandalism’, and is being valued for its educational and expressive benefits, even when it has a strong statement to make. [ V ]
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JAMES 060 T H E S T R E E T I S S U E
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James Reka, graffiti artist turned gallery artist, first visited Malta on holiday. Inspired by the baroque architecture prominent in Valletta and Birgu and the island’s ancient art, he decided to call Malta home for three months. Reka keeps his base in Berlin and travels for half the year; his travels being the most important part for his inspiration. He will be completing his work from Malta in Chicago where it will be exhibited.
REKA
How did the transition between graffiti artist to gallery artist happen? What has this changed for you as an artist? I started off studying graphic design in Australia. Aware that it’s not easy to make a living in the art world, I wasn’t looking to become a full time artist. It was a slow transition from doing illegal street art back in the day, but once that got going, the jump to gallery artist was quite smooth. Working in that setting gave me a better opportunity to explore different mediums and having a room and 3D space to work with, creating a world for paintings. After seeing your graffiti on concrete mixers I was secretly hoping that you would brighten up all of the construction machines overcrowding our island. What brings you to our tiny island? Has it inspired any future works? I was looking for a location for a 3 month residency that had a strong cultural presence. Malta offered just that with its contrasting cultures from around the world… and of course it’s rich history. I am often inspired by ancient art and the portrayal of female figures, and Maltese history allowed me to explore these elements further. >>
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S TREET ART
Lots of locals assumed that I was here to paint some street art, but I didn’t feel like there was a strong appreciation for street art and did not see much graffiti on the island. I did notice quite a few abandoned buildings and hotels, which would definitely be an interesting project for me. I will definitely be back to exhibit in the future. You are quite the globe trekker and produce work in many different cities. How do you stay focused whilst working in new surroundings? I have learnt that you definitely need a base and home. Mine is Berlin. I travel for 6 months of the year, working on different commissions and exhibitions; his is what keeps me inspired and knowing that I have a base just keeps me in routine. What’s your favourite surface to work on and medium? Walls - because it’s a physically challenging surface to work on. The large space allows me to move and create that flow and movement within my work. Large surfaces are especially inspiring when I work with spray paint. Do you create your murals to tell a story and how does the public fit in to your stories? My Murals are created for the public and I feel that it’s my responsibility for them to tell a story. My street art always touches on a subject or context related to the location, suburb or city. I’m often inspired by the nature surrounding the area, like animals from the area. My narratives are not political but rather they explore the beauty of local elements. I always keep in mind that each piece must connect with the locals as they will interact with it every day. At the end of the day, you are putting your work out there for the public and not everyone will interact with it in a positive way. I have experienced both positive and negative reactions. Positive being passers by that take photos with the murals and negatives being other artists that would spray over my work. It takes a while to get used to, but you just have to accept people’s reactions to something so public.
Has your career as a global graffiti artist always been a dream?
What is your proudest moment in your art career?
Being flown around the world to paint murals happened totally organically. Once it started picking up I set myself a few goals to turn this into a career.
I painted a train in Kiev in 2016. It was always a dream to have such a huge surface to paint on and a surface that is seen and used everyday. This was my biggest physical challenge and took 3 weeks, painting daily for 8 - 10 hours. It was the most satisfying job. [ V ]
Could you give us some inside info on your current travels and future projects? I have just arrived in Chicago where I will be exhibiting my work that I created during my 3 month residency in Malta.
instagram.com/rekaone
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Architect Vladimir Konovalov takes on a journey into Fitzroy Loft, a structure amalgamating its industrial past and contemporary living.
Words: Vladimir Konovalov Photos: www.omegarender.com
FITZ R OY LOFT
A repurposed chocolate factory in the heart of Melbourne’s inner city, Fitzroy Loft is a project that sensitively integrates the integrity and context of the building’s historical significance with a light and airy contemporary home. Sympathetic to the bones of the factory, walls and floors were torn to expose charred beams and remnant paint; scars of its industrial past. Within this historic framework, a series of spaces linked by three internal voids were created - a vertical vacuum emphasising original factory heights and flooding the space with light and air allowing the building to breathe. The first void is a courtyard. Enclosed by the northern boundary wall and terminated at the ridge of the first gable, it is directly connected to the main living room and kitchen - the homes own “Aussie Backyard”. Galvanised expanded mesh in place of a roof forms the openair garden, keeping its presence hidden from the public domain. Light is poured into adjacent rooms, whilst green elements yield a warm private breathing place creating juxtaposition with the colder industrial elements.
... “Within this historic framework, a series of spaces linked by three internal voids were created – a vertical vacuum emphasising original factory heights”...
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FITZROY LOFT
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...“ Steel fenestrations are used throughout the new insertions to distinguish them from their original timber counterpart, while joinery finishes were chosen for their slight industrial lineage.�...
The second void is located as a zoning device, separating the living spaces from the private. A suspended steel bridge links the upper levels, its perforated floor frames the lower space without weighing on it heavily. Louvre windows placed at the top of the sawtooth allow hot air to escape in summer months by way of cross ventilation. The third void is placed in the library, displaying the original timber columns and beams that add a warm rustic touch. The space is superbly well lit with natural and soft southern ambient light that touche the library and the mezzanine study above. >>
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FITZROY LOFT
Steel fenestrations are used throughout the new insertions to distinguish them from their original timber counterpart, while joinery finishes were chosen for their slight industrial lineage. This concept is upheld in the contemporary private spaces.
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Throughout, the sensitively juxtaposed materials are an appreciative nod to the industrial lineage and historic fabric of this incredible building. [ V ]
SAN GWANN | VALLETTA | PAOLA | GOZO
TA I L O R E D E L E G A N C E
A House in Miyamo Words: Tato Architects Photography: ShinkenchikuSha
EC H O CHAM BER
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The Echo Chamber is set in Osaka, Japan, Design Firms Tato Architects and Takashi Manda Structural Design had a clear brief in which family unity should be intrinsic part of the house design. This resulted in a spatial structure resembling an echo-chamber to match the client’s sensitive desires. >>
oto
AKA: Echo Chamber
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EC H O CHAM BER
t this house - a residence designed for a family of three and their many belongings - the client requested that the members of the family can feel close to each other regardless of where they are in the house. Moreover, private rooms were not needed because they feel that it is lonely to withdraw into one’s space, and storage space was also unnecessary because they did not want to tuck things
away. As a result of trying to find a form that allows the whole house to feel like one room while securing sufficient space for their belongings at the same time, we proposed a design to connect the flooring with a height difference of 700mm, where the different levels can be used as tables and shelves. The floors build up as two spiral shapes, join at the living room, and then separate into two again before arriving at the rooftop deck. By using this combination of two spirals, we were able
to create multiple paths inside the house that allow different room compartments and changes in the circulation, equipping the house to be able to accommodate changes in the lifestyle of the client. The surrounding of the flag-shaped site as a result of the selling of the old wooden house near the station, are parking lots and apartments, and it is expected that there will be more tall buildings built in the near future. >>
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ECHO CHAMBER
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EC H O CHAM BER
... “Since they started officially living here, the things, the architecture and people has became one like an ensemble, and the rich scenery of their lifestyle is expanding as if they are moving inside a forest.�... >>
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ECHO CHAMBER
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Assuming that the only outdoor area that receives good sunlight is the roof, a rectangular box-shaped volume with the flat roof and triangular terraces are inserted. The windows are placed uniformly with the least interference with the structure to allow the house to be able to accommodate changes in the environment. Due to the fact that the house is located in a fire prevention district, it is designed with a steel framework with a ceiling height of 6,900mm, where 13 floors surface float, with the top seven different levels suspended with 20mm steel rods from the roof beam, and with the bottom six floors supported by 75mm square steel pipes. The spatial structure that is constructed by repeating a simple autonomous system is similar to an ‘echo chamber’, which amplifies the innermost lifestyle of the client and conveys a sensitivity that expands without limit. The client has lived in the area nearby and slowly moved into the house. Since they started officially living here, the architecture and people have become one; like an ensemble. The rich scenery of their lifestyle is expanding as if they are moving inside a forest. From now on, we look forward to seeing how, the residents and architecture settle down in relation to each other through time. “The spatial structure that is constructed by repeating a simple autonomous system is similar to an ‘echo chamber’, which amplifies the innermost lifestyle of the client and conveys a sensitivity that expands without limit.” [ V ] Location: Osaka, Japan House / Design: Tato Architects, Yo Shimada
Team: Yo Shimada, Nobuhiko Sato, Koji Hoshiyasu
Team: Takashi Manda, Taijiro Kato
Structure Design: Takashi Manda, Structural Design
Construction: Seiyu construction company
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STREET FOOD C A L A M A R ATA 2 whole fresh calamari 400gr calamarata pasta (or mezze paccheri) 45ml extra virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves finely chopped 3 shallots finely chopped 25gr tomato paste 50ml dry white wine 200gr cherry tomatoes cut in half 1 chilli seeded and diced 50gr nduja sausage Basil leaves to decorate Clean the calamari by removing the head, cut out the eyes and beak and the tentacles. Clean the inside by removing the cartilage and interns, peel the outer skin and then rinse again. Cut the tube into rings keeping them a similar size to the pasta. Heat 25ml of the olive oil and sauté the onion and garlic without browning them. Add the tomato paste and cook out. When it starts to release oil, add the wine and reduce. Now add the nduja, chili and cherry tomatoes and cook over a low heat. In the meantime, have a pot of boiling salted water ready to
cook the pasta. Drain the pasta just before it becomes ‘al dente’ and reserve some of the cooking liquid. Heat a pan and add the remaining olive oil. Lightly fry the calamari without browning . Add them to the sauce with the cooked pasta and water. Adjust seasoning and serve immediately decorate with some fresh basil leaves
ISRAELI COUSCOUS WITH MUSSELS & CLAMS 1 large head of garlic, wrapped in foil and baked until soft (30 minutes) 80ml olive oil 300gr Israeli couscous 1 large onion finely diced 2 tsp fennel seeds toasted and crushed 250gr cherry tomatoes 25gr tomato paste 1 lemon (peel only) 200gr canned tomatoes blended 90ml white wine Salt & pepper 300gr mussels 300gr clams Bunch of parsley chopped
Remove the foil from the garlic and, when cool enough to handle, squeeze out the cloves and discard the skin. Finely chop the caramelised garlic. In the meantime, place the couscous in a pot with water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 – 20 minutes until just cooked to the bite, then drain. In a large pan heat the olive oil (reserve 15ml) and add half the garlic, onions, fennel seeds, lemon peel and a pinch of salt; fry gently with colour until soft. Add the tomato paste, cherry tomatoes and tomato sauce and cook for 15-20 minutes on a low flame until the cherry tomatoes are soft and yielding. Add the drained couscous to the sauce with some cold water and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Heat a pan and add a table spoon of olive oil, the remaining garlic and the mussels and clams. Deglaze with wine and cover on a high flame. As soon as the shells open add the chopped parsley, drain and add some of the liquid to the couscous. Serve the couscous in a bowl topped with the mussels and clams. >>
Photo g raphy : S e an Ma l l i a All items can be found at LOFT, Naxxar Fo o d by : C l ai re Gi ord am i na & R e ub e n B org
STREET FUSION
Travel to the corners of the Mediterranean Sea with these tantalising street food recipes prepared by Corinthia Palace Hotel.
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Enjoy Every Moment Christmas at Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa is a celebration of all the very best things in life. Contact us now to book your table for one of our festive events. Merry Christmas! Reservations for any festive event can be made by calling our events team on +356 2544 2101 or e-mail us on events.palace@corinthia.com.
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S TR EET FOOD
MALOREDDUS WITH OCTOPUS AND PRAWNS PG. 83
M O R O C C A N L A M B TA G I N E P G . 8 3
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S TR EET FOOD M O R O C C A N L A M B TA G I N E 100ml olive oil 4 lamb shanks 10gr smoked paprika 3gr ground turmeric 2gr ground cumin 1gr cayenne pepper 5gr cinnamon stick 1 piece star anise 2gr ground cloves 2gr green cardamom pods 4gr ground ginger 3 gr ground coriander 1 bay leaf Pinch saffron threads 5 garlic cloves crushed 2 onions finely chopped 2 carrots cut into cubes Large piece of fresh ginger grated 450ml chicken stock 25gr tomato paste 30ml honey Handful almonds fried until golden brown Heat half the oil and cook the lamb until a deep golden brown, then transfer to an oven dish. In a clean pan heat the oil and lightly cook the onion, garlic and carrots. Add the ginger and all the spices, cook for a further
two minutes then add the tomato paste, cook down and add the chicken stock. Bring to the boil and check seasoning. Stir in the honey and pour the sauce over the lamb shanks. Cover with grease proof paper and a lid and cook in and oven set at 175C for 1 ½ to 2 hours (until meat is tender). Remove the shanks and return the sauce to the stove to reduce to the desired consistency. Spoon over the lamb shanks and decorate with the toasted almonds. Sprinkle with chopped coriander Serve with plenty of warm flat bread.
MALOREDDUS WITH OCTOPUS AND PRAWNS 400gr maloreddus pasta 250gr cherry tomatoes Sprig of fresh thyme 65ml olive oil 2 shallots finely diced 6 garlic cloves grated 5gr caraway seeds (toasted and crushed) 5gr cumin seeds (toasted and crushed) 5gr coriander seeds (toasted and crushed) 20gr tomato paste 30gr sun dried tomatoes finely chopped 100ml red wine 10gr sugar
350gr passata di pomodoro (sieved) Salt and pepper 15gr rose harissa 8 large king prawns 1 octopus (cooked in a red wine court bouillon) sliced 1 tsp grated lemon zest Bunch of chopped herbs (mint, dill, basil & parsley) Drizzle the cherry tomatoes with some olive oil and fresh thyme and roast in a hot oven for 10 minutes. Heat a large pan and drizzle in about a tablespoon of oil. Add the chopped shallots and cook until golden brown, then add the chopped garlic, caraway, cumin, coriander, sun dried tomatoes, passata di pomodoro and tomato paste; cook for a few minutes until fragrant. Now add the octopus and wine, cook for about five minutes, then stir in the sugar, black pepper and add a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer and reduce the heat to cook for about 15 minutes. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until just before the al dente stage, as you want to finish cooking in the sauce to absorb all the flavours. Add the pasta to the simmering sauce as well as the roasted cherry tomatoes and the king prawns and cook for a few minutes. Stir in the rose harissa and chopped herbs. Scatter the grated lemon zest on top and serve immediately
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CULTURE
Anna Marie Galea explores why a photograph that defined beauty in the 19th century challenges our expectations of beauty standards today.
A Controversial Beauty Words: Anna Marie Galea
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It’s the modern meme that has launched a thousand reactions. Yet in the superficial sphere, which is the Internet, few have challenged the story behind the Princess Qajar photograph doing the World Wide Web rounds or looked beyond the trappings of what many people in the modern Western world define as beautiful. A quick glance at the black and white photo, which has graced so many Facebook walls in the past months, shows the Princess Qajar looking like a squat man who has found his way into a woman’s wardrobe and worn the whitest, most conspicuously opulent dress he could find. This is in itself guaranteed to raise an eyebrow or three. However, the creator of this colourful black and white meme was not happy with just leaving it at that and the meme continues to state that 13 men committed suicide because the princess refused to marry them. The internet lapped it up like thirsty camels in the desert and lambasted the poor protagonist’s appearance left, right and centre. With the boom of apps like Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat, it is not only become vastly apparent that people no longer value the importance of the source of the information they are consuming (or its quality or longevity for that matter); these apps have also succeeded in bringing out the worse in people’s characters and insecurities. Appearance has become all, and woe betide he who does not get with the glossy programme.
CULT URE
Upon digging a little bit deeper into Princess Qajar’s backstory, I quickly realized that this much-mocked woman probably did not even exist; in fact, there was no Princess Qajar at all. The woman in the photo is Princess Fatemah Khanum “Esmat alDowleh”, who was part of the Qajar dynasty. She was born in a time when women in Persia would be married off at a very young age by their fathers and would not have the opportunity to mix with members of the other sex, let alone have them commit suicide over their supposed refusal. However, as far as I’m concerned historical facts aside, I find the public’s reaction to it perhaps even more worrying than the glaring historical inaccuracies. International standards of beauty have always been different and varied until globalisation, and particularly, the internet, began to subconsciously tell us otherwise. In Arab cultures for example, a bigger woman was always seen to be more desirable simply because bigger women denoted fertility which is still a primary issue for many cultures. In Mauritania, there are actual fat farms where young girls are taken and force-fed in order to be able to make them more desirable to suitors. And having an abundance of facial and body hair is no different. It is not uncommon for women from southern countries to have thicker and darker hair than their northern counterparts and there was a period in Persian history in the 19th century where having thick upper lip hair was seen as a sign of beauty. Ironically, despite our supposed strives in gender equality and fluidity, there seems to have been less fuss about this issue in nineteenth-century Iran and in fact, in a paper entitled ‘Let’s Talk About Sex and Gender: The Case of Iran A Book Review’ by Hafsa Kanjwal, the author states: “It is through the Persian paintings of the Qajar time period that Najmabadi is able to argue that ideas of beauty during this era were not gendered. Rather, certain traits such as a lean waist, thick eyebrows, and a thin moustache were considered beautiful, irrespective of the holder’s gender. In one such painting, entitled Embracing Lovers by Muhammad Sadiq, the attribution of male or female to the two figures becomes difficult, as they both exhibit these uniform traits of beauty. Najmabadi argues that there were no notions of “female beauty” or “male handsomeness”—both were identical.” Looking at that paragraph alone, it then seems sadly ironic that the democratisation of the Internet has led to a supposed democratisation of how one must look in order to be seen as desirable. The Internet’s need to market women’s looks in particular as a commodity where one size fits all is worrying, if not highly unacceptable. There was a time when diversity was
celebrated and, if not always understood, was at least accepted. However, thanks to a lack of role models who vaguely look like them, many women who are not born tall, thin, blonde and blueeyed have rejected their natural bodies and look at themselves with loathing. In a world where women who look like Chiara Ferragni are venerated, it is little wonder that everyone who is not born blonde wants to be a Kardashian. There needs to be more awareness not only about the things we choose to share on our personal social channels but also on what makes each and every human unique. It should not come as a shock to us that a woman with a moustache was valuable and beautiful enough to die for (even though there are no facts to support this unlikely tale). Maybe we should stop bandying around terms like feminism if we are unable to grasp the tolerance and respect for differences that should lie at the root of this term. Our strengths lie in our differences, not in our similarities. [ V ]
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PEMBA ISLAND
Words: Chanel Galea Images: Šthemantaresort
Dream of that perfect island holiday and clear postcard visions appear of pristine and turquoise waters, long stretches of white sandy beaches, lush green hills and abundance of nature. Pemba Island is the closest thing to realise everything in that vision.
An Indian Ocean Island Paradise
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PEMB A ISLAND
Pemba Island, nicknamed “The Green Island” due to its fertile land, is made up of lush landscapes, gorgeous green hills, and clove plantations. Separated from mainland Tanzania by the Pemba Channel, Zanzibar’s tranquil, lesser-known sister island is every ocean lover’s dream. Home to a rich diversity of tropical marine habitats, Pemba boasts extensive coral reefs, sea grass meadows, and mangrove forests. The surrounding reefs are some of the healthiest and most diverse in East Africa, making the adventure nothing short of breathtaking. The bolder travellers are seeking Pemba for its uncrowded beaches, turquoise waters and unspoiled reefs the island has to offer. Flying to the city of Chake-Chake in a twelve-seater aircraft, followed by a bumpy 90-minute SUV ride will bring you to The Manta Resort, making the lengthy journey the most rewarding ever. The resort sits at the northernmost tip of the island and carries with it a sense of serenity. The real luxuries of life can be appreciated here. >>
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PEMBA ISLAND
Disconnecting from a stressful world and having space for your own thoughts and desires, one can experience sustainable coexistence and harmonize with nature. The Manta Resort allows you to engage in a context where human interaction is about care, knowing that something as simple as a smile is truly genuine. The Manta Resort offers a selection of garden rooms or seafront villas, each clad with traditional Pemban décor made from local materials. Whilst each room boasts space and privacy, nothing can top its signature accommodation – The Underwater Room, located on the reef in the middle of a conservation area.
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Anchored in an ocean floor anomaly, the floating underwater room is literally in a world of its own. Encapsulated in a turquoise bubble, the floating structure provides three levels, each one worthy of its own story. The landing deck at sea level includes a chill-out area for some shaded downtime. A ladder leading up to the roof presents a large lounge area perfect for sun worshipping by day or stargazing by night. The absence of light pollution makes the clarity of the stars and planets absolutely extraordinary. One can’t help but wonder about the notion of time and the immensity of everything while staring up at the sky to the sound of the soft murmuring of the sea. >>
PEMB A ISLAND
...“ When you climb down to the underwater deck, you climb to another state of being, experiencing the fascinating shifting lights of the water and the curiosity of the marine inhabitants �...
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PEMBA ISLAND
When you climb down to the underwater deck, you climb to another state of being, experiencing the fascinating shifting lights of the water and the curiosity of the marine inhabitants. It is a magical feeling to lay down with a near 360-degree view through glass panes as shoals of reef fish and exquisite individuals visit the windows. By night, reef inhabitants cannot resist the attraction to the underwater spotlights, making it a truly unique experience. Nature has created conditions that make the reef outside Manta one of the most climate resilient reefs in the entire Indian Ocean. A large amount of time and effort has been devoted to conserve and preserve the reefs and waters around the northern tip of Pemba Island. The untouched coral reefs make Pemba one of the top dive sites in the world, spectacular by any standards. Dives are characterized by amazingly clear blue water drop-offs and vibrant shallow reefs. Pristine coral gardens host bountiful reef and pelagic fish, amongst other marine life. The deep Pemba channel rises dramatically towards the island’s west coast in near vertical walls along many of the reefs.
...“ The untouched coral reefs make Pemba one of the top dive sites in the world, spectacular by any standards. Dives are characterized by amazingly clear blue water drop-offs and vibrant shallow reefs.”
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PEMB A ISLAND
An abundant number of dolphins are very often seen on the seas off Pemba Island, as they come to feed close to the shoreline. In certain times of the year, humpback whales can also be seen migrating south towards Zanzibar through the Pemba channel. For a land adventure, Pemba’s Ngezi Forest Reserve sits on the northern part of the island and is the only remaining area of indigenous forest. Walking a trail under the tree’s double canopy allows spotting of monkeys, bush babies and bats. One may notice the different flowers and spice plants whilst listening to the songs of the various species of birds. The forest is the ideal way to breathe in the fresh air and watch it’s diverse occupants. Discovering Pemba is the closest thing to discovering a deserted island. Its secluded beaches, pristine waters, and diverse reefs make Pemba everything you dream and more. It is truly an experience of a lifetime. [ V ]
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A N A G E O LD Q UEST ION
What does it mean to be old, to feel old or to be seen as an elderly member of our society? First of all, like the term ‘growing old’ implicates, aging is a process. Aging is based on changes in our bodies, in our minds and in our environment. These changes determine what we can and can’t do, what we believe we can and can’t do and what others believe we can and can’t do. In this article, we will shine some light on these changes from five different perspectives: >>
An Age Old Question >> How to design age-sensitive products and services
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AN AGE OLD QUESTION
[ 1 ] Chronological Age The chronological age is used to organize ourselves by the amount of time that we have spent on planet earth, to e.g. allow or forbid people from doing certain things. Do you want to drive a car? You better have at least 6.570 days on your clock. You want to enjoy a beer or two? Well, make it 5.840 days. These numbers vary by country and culture. They do not tell how capable and responsible a driver really is. Chronological age is a model which describes how likely it is that one is a capable and responsible driver. Such a model makes things simpler, but often too simple: some 80-year olds are excellent drivers, while others can not cross the street by themselves. When we only know the chronological age of a person, we can guess how likely it is that that person can drive a car, but this likelihood comes with a large uncertainty.
[ 2 ] Biological Age Scientists have discovered that there are biogenetic processes that make us ‘grow old’, constantly. These are some examples of biological changes: • The changing transcriptional activity of our genes • Mutations as a consequence of poor DNA-repair • ‘Exhausted’ cell renewal, caused by the shortening of the telomeres (to be found on each end of a chromosome) • Apoptosis: the programmed cell death, in order to prevent an endless replication of possibly defective cells A person’s biological condition strongly affects how (s)he uses interactive products. For example, reduced eyesight under lowlight conditions is very common among people over 50. This is one of the reasons why older people may not like to drive at night.
[ 3 ] Functional Age The functional age defines the capability of a person to execute the tasks of daily life. Can a person still do her own shopping, clean her own house or travel to visit friends and family? Functional age plays a major role when it comes to the question, whether a person is able to live at home
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independently. When we know a person’s functional capabilities, we have a starting point for designing better products and services. However, this information is not sufficient. We may know if the person can still drive a car, but we do not know if (s) he prefers comfort functions, such as a parking aid and cruise control, or if (s)he prefers the more classical and manual way of operating the car.
[ 4 ] Psychological Age “You are only as old as you feel.” This saying sums up the meaning of psychological age. It’s all about the self-assessment of a person: that person’s belief in their own capabilities and their motivation to do new things or continue to do things (s)he used to do. It is also about well-being and satisfaction with his or her own life until that date. The more honest someone is about their own (ageconcerned) feelings, the more likely it is that this person will act need-oriented and become predictable as a potential customer of age-sensitive products. When designing products for seniors, psychological age is often just as important as functional age. For example, there are seniors who are courageous enough to try out new things. A senior who used to be driven around by her late husband, may take a few driving lessons and start driving again, as long as the car has an automatic transmission. Other seniors may be less courageous (or more responsible) and prefer to use public transportation.
[ 5 ] Sociological Age Whereas psychological age is about how one assesses oneself, sociological age is about the external assessment. What do other people think about the older adult’s capabilities and which behavior do they expect or desire? What is the person’s role? Is (s)he expected to play an active role in mentoring new employees, shaping politics, taking care of her grandchildren? There must be a reason why most of us want to reach old age but do not want to be seen as old people. This attitude can be found in many western cultures. In other countries, such as Thailand, being old is a thing to be proud of.
When we understand how society sees a person, this may help us to design better products. Imagine for example a courageous senior driving relatively slowly on the highway in the right lane. When another driver approaches the car from behind, he may be surprised by the speed difference and overtake rather roughly. The senior in turn may be annoyed by the ‘careless driving of the younger generation’. Instead, we could design a mechanism in the overtaker’s car which gives a timely warning about the speed difference. This would not just improve safety but also provide everyone with a better driving experience.
[ 6 ] Conclusion When speaking about age, people have an image in mind (a simplification, a model) of an average person who is 50, 60, 70, etc. years old, based on prior experiences with such persons. In reality, nobody ages alike. It is a gradual process, which manifests itself on many different levels. The different perspectives on aging are correlated. For example, when a person believes (psychological age) that (s)he is no longer able to drive a car safely at night, she will drive less and less until one day (s) he will no longer remember how to operate a car at all (functional age). The neighbors will notice that (s)he never uses her car and may tell him or her that this is good because “(s)he shouldn’t be driving at his or her age” (sociological age). Chronological age is a simple and objective perspective and is therefore frequently used to define the expected or desired behavior of people. Unfortunately, it is not a powerful predictor for how people use interactive products. Other perspectives, such as functional age, psychological age and sociological age are much more helpful. [V] This article was first published at https:// www.seniorwise.eu/en/perspectivesaging-man-machine-interaction/. Carolin Makus Gerontologist and Writer from Berlin, based in Malta https://carolinmakus.de
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[ Cozy Kids ] Adding a feminine touch to your active look with a balanced blend of neutral and pastel.
Trousers, €14.99. Top, €14.99. Jacket, €25.99. Socks, €4.99. Shoes, €25.99. All available at Okaïdi.
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Jeans, €21.99. Shirt, €21.99. Sneakers, €25.99. Hat, €12.00. All available at Okaidi. Toys, Rhythm Box €58.99 available at My Favourite Things.
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A f un lovi ng take on all of t he co o le st ki d s t re n d s t h i s se aso n
PHOTOS: M AT T H E W B S P I T E R I STYLIST: JEANDOR MODELS: CHRIZAYA, PEPPI, LEILA, ERIK LO C AT I O N : VA L L E T TA
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Left: Dungaree, €12.00. Blouse, €10.40. All available at Noos. Frames, €74, Vision Pavi Right: Shirt, €29.00. Jeans, €32.00. All available at Monsoon. Plan toys Tambourine, €23.99, available at My Favourite Things.
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T-shirt, €14.99. Dungarees, €29.99. Socks, €8.99. Sneakers,€29.99. All available at Okaidi. Belle & Beau handmade striped bow, €12.75, available at My Favourite Things Below Right: Shirt, €19.99. Shorts, €25.99. All available at Mango. Sunglasses, €112, Rayban available at Sunglass and Sunglass Valletta / Gozo. Right: Shirt, €22.50. Pants, €19.00. All available at Marks and Spencer. Shoes, €37.00 from Monsoon. Baghera Wagon, €77.50, available at my My Favourite Things.
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Shirt, €22.59. Pants, €22.50. All available from Marks and Spencer. Sneakers, €25.99 from Okaidi. Plan Skipping Rope, €14.99, available at My Favourite Things.
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Jacket, €14.40. T-shirt, €4.00. Shorts, €25.99. All available at Noos.
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carlagrima
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‘Colour Queen’ An overdose of colour is what’s in the mix for our little ladies this season. Mix up your love for primary tones with soft pastels for a true statement.
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1. Backpack, €29.90, Zip & Zoe, My Favourite Things. 2. Playsuit, €25.99, Okaidi. 3. Shoes, €27.99, Mango. 4. 3 pack top, €19, M&S. 5. Coat, €85, Monsoon. 6. Pedal Car, €205, Baghera, My Favourite Things.
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Back to School with Start-rite Tested by kids for generations
Before you know it, it’s time for school. The last thing your child needs to worry about is uncomfortable school shoes, because they’ll be wearing them day in, day out, for up to eight hours a day. It’s important to get feet measured and buy school shoes that have been properly fitted, because their bones are not fully developed until they reach their late teens. The older children get, the more style-conscious they become but these days you don’t have to sacrifice fashion for fit. Start-rite school shoes look good and comply with school uniform regulations, as well as offering all these important features: 1. Stylish designs in high quality leathers ensuring great looks and durability 2. Whole & half sizes and width fittings F,G, and H to ensure best fit 3. Velcro fastenings to make putting shoes on quick and convenient for kids who are in a hurry to get going. Soft and supple leather uppers to avoid rubbing, and dyed-through leather so that scuffs and scrapes will be easier to conceal with a good polish 4. Breathable linings for maximum comfort, allowing perspiration to escape through the surface of the shoe 5. Lightweight, flexible and non-slip soles in different styles, although in older children, heels should not be too high Once your child is of school age, you should check the fit of their school shoes every 3 or 4 months. Start-rite offers a variety of school shoes that look good and fit well and for older children up to the age of 16. Startrite school shoes are specifically designed to meet the school footwear needs of this more fashionconscious age group, combined with the reassurance of whole and half sizes, multi-width fittings and the superior quality for which Start-rite is renowned.
Get their shoes fitted by a professional Ill fitting shoes can have a serious impact on your child’s foot health for years to come. Start-rite shoes are sold by retailers with skills developed through Start-rite training and experience. Using the Start-rite foot gauge, they will measure both feet for length and width/girth to give them a guide to the size that your child will need. They will then advise on the style most suited to your child’s foot. When checking the fit of the shoe, the fitter will get your child to stand up so that they can make sure that the shoe is of the correct length, width and girth. They will also check that the shoe is not rubbing on the anklebone and that the fastening is comfortable and secure. They will then watch the child walk, to make sure that the shoes do not slip off and on. We recommend that children have a professional fit check every six to eight weeks as toddlers, and every three to four months once they are older. Startrite shoes are exclusively available from all Scholl Foothealth Centres or online: schollcentre.com
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Tough on playgrounds, gentle on feet, smart in class Our tougher than tough school shoes for girls and boys are made to last and can withstand the daily activities of busy feet both in and out of the classroom.
PROTECT Enhanced protection around the toe, heel and side of the shoe. Engineered tread design for improved grip
COMFORT Cushioning precisely where it counts based on life-stage and activity levels
FIT Custom fit based on development stage and physiology of foot
FLEX Biomechanically engineered sole with targeted flexibility for specific ages
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‘Adventure Dude’ A cool and casual look that’s ready for some serious adventures! Keeping kids comfortable in flexible knitwear. 1.
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1. Jumper, €16.99, Okaidi. 2. Jumper, €22.99, Mango 3. Brogues, €38, Monsoon. 4. Hat/Scarf, €9.99/€12.99, Mango. 5. Jacket, €29.99, Okaidi. 6. Set, €24, M&S.
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AUTUMN ‘18
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Shiseido Bio Performance Glow Revival Cream + Serum Shiseido’s Bio-Performance Glow Revival Cream restores your inner glow by reducing dullness and the appearance of fine lines, maintaining the skins ideal moisture balance. Enhance this effect with Bio-Performance Glow Revival Serum that works at cellular level using new capillary management technology for a lustrous beauty from deep down. Shiseido Is Exclusively Represented By C+M Marketing Ltd. Tel. 2142 4079
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“After two pregnancies my tummy was literally left hanging, this affected both my image and my self-esteem. I opted for a tummy tuck and muscle repair at Persona because I heard about their reputation. The results are more than excellent and the procedure went really well, the nurses really took care of me and I felt pampered. While I had many doubts and worries beforehand, I would do it again in the blink of an eye!”
Bella, 43
Many look at liposuction to remove abdominal (tummy) fat, but do not foresee the unintended consequences this could have on their appearance, if the skin has lost elasticity because of age, weight gain, or pregnancy. On the other hand, a tummy tuck, removes the extra fat, together with the extra loose skin whilst tightening up the muscles. Schedule a consultation with one of our plastic surgeons to find out which procedure can help you get the results you’re after.
AESTHETIC PROCEDURES
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Any med-aesthetic procedure carries risks. Always seek prior advice from an appropriately qualified medical practitioner. Image used for illustration purposes only.
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Radiance + Boldness: It’s all about Radiant Skin, Lustrous Lips, and Bold Eyes to complete your refined street look 1. Clarins Water Lip Stain A formula rich in plant-derived active ingredients, an ultra-sensory lip tint and all of Clarins’ expertise in colour, concentrated in newgeneration lip make-up with a kiss-proof and matte finish. The brush is infused with just the right amount of colour and perfectly hugs the shape of your lips. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 2. Clarins Joli Rouge Gradation Achieve glamourous and luscious lips with this two-toned lipstick, creating a flattering ombre effect in a single step. The two colours blend effortlessly together on the lips. Thanks to its creamy formula, the lips remain moisturised, soft and comfortable for hours. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 3. Polaar Eternal Snow Youthful Promise Cream This anti-ageing cream empowers the skin to regenerate thanks to the flowers of Nunatak stem cells and other flower extracts. Eternal Snow Youthful Promise Cream stimulates tissue regeneration, corrects signs of ageing and improves skin clarity by erasing red patches and imperfections, whilst improving elasticity and hydration. Exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd T: 21 331 553
4. Clarins Waterproof Eyeliner Gel A smouldering look that captures attention. When paired with its brush, this waterproof gel eyeliner makes the eyes stand out with its brilliantly intense black colour, creating a clean and sleek result. It’s water, sweat and humidity resistant, for a 12-hour wear. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 5. SkinCeuticals H.A Intensifier H.A Intensifier is a multi-beneficial corrective serum with a unique formulation that contains high concentrations of pure hyaluronic acid, proxylane™, and botanical extracts deliver surface hydration, helping improve the firmness, smoothness, and facial plumpness. Exclusively available from Persona Med-Aesthetic Centre, Ta’ Xbiex 6. Anatomicals, That’s what we Call Well Stung Skin Boosting Honey Face Mask To bee or not to bee? That is the question. Honey is naturally antibacterial, making this mask perfect for acne-prone skin or for preventing pimples. Full of antioxidants, it will slow down ageing and boost the complexion. Your skin will feel nourished, replenished and restored. Exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd T: 21 331 553
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ED ITO R ’S P ICKS
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1. BEAUTYGEN Renew Pearls The BEAUTYGEN Renew Pearls by Dr. Grandel provides a skinrejuvenating care experience at the push of a button. In the dispenser head the pearls combine with extra moisture, forming a delicate creamserum giving the skin a smooth and luscious finish. For inquiries contact Carewell by Reactilab. E-mail:sales@reactilabd.com. Tel: 99828498 2. Clarins Pore Control Dream of skin with tighter texture rendering pores practically invisible? This expert serum is up to the challenge. Its texture masks pores and reveals an even, radiant complexion. Its plant-derived active ingredients help reduce the appearance of pores and refine the skin’s texture. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 3. Polaar IceSource Skin Quenching Hydrating Mask Enriched with hyaluronic acid, this extremely hydrating mask infuses the skin with intense freshness keeping the skin soft and moisturized. Apply a thick, even layer to cleansed skin and wait 10 minutes. Rinse with water or remove excess with a cotton pad. Exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd 21 331 553
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4. Clarins Skin Illusion Foundation The new Skin Illusion Foundation is the secret to a naturally flawless complexion, available in 12 shades. This hydrating foundation gives immediate freshness and beautiful glow, maintaining your skin’s natural beauty. It is formulated with red jania extract and Light Optimising Complex to instantly revive radiance. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 5. Every Shade of You M·A·C celebrates the power of self-expression and individuality with the newly launched Studio Fix available in 60 shades. Studio Fix is a modern foundation combining a matte finish and medium-to-full buildable coverage with SPF15 protection. Through this month, get a free foundation pump with any Studio Fix purchase at all M·A·C locations in Malta. GET YOUR FREE SAMPLE at M·A·C Cosmetics Tigne Street, Sliema / Zachary Street, Valletta / Debenhams, The Point. Instagram: @ maccosmeticsmalta.
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SET OFF ON YOUR SPECIAL TRIP IN STYLE
Would you like to start celebrating your special occasion in a world of style and comfort? Book the La Valette Special Occasions package and let the start of your trip set the rhythm for many magical moments.
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