a travel guide by OUTLIERS for The Meliá Collection seen by Cecilia Renard
The first time I visited Tenerife, I arrived with a preconceived notion of an island defined by beaches, endless sunshine, and seaside tourism.To my surprise, I was greeted by an entirely different reality in the island’s northern landscapes, where I discovered a far more diverse environment than I could have ever imagined: lush greens, the deep blue of the Atlantic, and the volcanic black of the soil combine to create truly unique and captivating scenery.
In the small northern towns, traditional Canarian architecture and customs still endure, offering glimpses into the island’s rich heritage even as modern life unfolds. It was here that I first encountered “guachinches”—informal, family-run eateries serving authentic dishes in a relaxed, welcoming setting. The mild climate, the vastness of the landscapes, and the imposing silhouette of Mount Teide, watching over everything from a distance, contribute to a serene feeling that stands in contrast to the island’s more conventional image.
Yet Tenerife is more than its landscapes. Its history stretches back to the time of the Guanches, the island’s earliest inhabitants, whose legacy endures in traditions, place names, and stories that continue to shape local identity. Additionally, the island’s colonial past forged strong cultural ties with Latin America, evident in its architecture, language, music, celebrations, and the hospitable spirit that recalls distant shores.
This guide aims to help you discover the northern side of Tenerife at your own pace. Through a curated selection of places and experiences—from villages and restaurants to beaches and other outdoor activities— these pages invite you to look beyond the island’s familiar image and encounter the true character of its lesser-known corners.
Júlia Juste @outliersguide
HO TEL
Hacienda del Conde is located on the northwest coast of Tenerife, in the region of Buenavista, One of the island’s best-kept secrets. This idyllic area is the perfect place to escape from the world, offering dramatic cliffs, secluded coves, volcanic formations, and caves.
Blessed with amazing sunsets, this natural paradise is full of trails and scenery that justify its name. The virgin land of the exotic orchards that lie alongside Teno National Park, nurtured by the eternal spring weather.
Hacienda Del Conde
Hacienda Del Conde
Surrounded by a stunning natual environment, Hacienda del Conde’s design evokes the colonial heritage of Tenerife, inspiring guests to explore the island, its local culture, and its people.
Hacienda Del Conde
An idyllic hideaway, this hotel boasts 117 spacious, light-filled rooms and suites reflecting the charming colonial style of the Canary Islands, featuring stunning views and ensuring a comfortable, restful, and thoroughly delightful stay.
Gastronomy. Hacienda del Conde also offers several dining options in different spaces, being the most unique and special Salazar and Rosmarino.
Salazar – an intimate ambience and à la carte culinary creations that preserve local traditions and enhance them with new techniques and ingredients. Cuisine with a strong bond with the land and local products.
Il Rosmarino – a gastronomic proposal that will transport you to the flavours of Italy.
Hacienda Del Conde
With breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, Hacienda del Conde offers a first-class golf experience on a course featuring lakes, waterfalls, cliffs, and incredible ocean panoramas, allowing you to enjoy unspoiled nature while playing a round of golf.
Hacienda Del Conde
YHI SPA. An oasis of well-being where you can enjoy a variety of treatments and therapies designed to revitalize your body and mind, or simply unwind in the thermal circuit—featuring a heated dynamic pool, hydromassage station, footbath, sauna, Turkish bath, and ice fountain.
Hacienda Del Conde
OUT DO ORS
Teide. Spain’s highest mountain (3,715m) truly deserves all the popularity it has. Driving along the roads that lead to the base of Teide is undoubtedly a must-stop for anyone visiting Tenerife.
We ascended via Santiago del Teide, overwhelmed by the changing landscape as we progressed, leaving behind the clouds and pines to reach the volcanic scenery in the Llano de Ucanca, the Cañadas, Roque García, and the San José mines. Afterwards, we descended along the Carretera de la Esperanza, which takes you to the Laguna.
For the more adventurous, it is possible to climb to the summit. Many people recommend doing so at dawn to see the stars and then the sunrise from above. Alternatively, you can also take the cable car by reserving a ticket in advance. TENERIFE
POOLS & CHARCOS
Charco La Laja
Piscina natural de Jóver
San Juan de la Rambla Tejina
Piscina Natural Punta del Hidalgo
Punta del Hidalgo
Charco los Chochos
Piscina natural de Bajamar
Los Silos Bajamar
El Caletón
Piscina Altagay Garachico
Punta del Hidalgo
Playa de Rojas, El Sauzal El Sauzal
Mesa del Mar
Mesa del Mar
Piscina natural de
Piscina Altagay
de los Patos
Playa Bollullo
BEACHES
It is a pristine, untouched beach without breakwaters, where the sand is naturally shaped by the tides. This paradise offers the perfect setting to enjoy silence, and the breathtaking views of majestic cliffs. An ideal destination for nature lovers and those seeking tranquility away from the crowds. You can reach Playa de los Patos by walking from Playa del Bollullo. Please note that the access route is currently under construction but remains accessible.
Surrounded by cliffs and lush vegetation, creating a beautiful and peaceful environment. There’s a beach bar (chiringuito Bollullo) where you can enjoy a meal or a drink, making it a perfect spot to relax and take in the natural scenery. n (north/south/east/west)
One of the island’s most spectacular wild beaches, especially stunning at sunset. Accessing the beach requires a hike, which helps keep it quiet and secluded away from the crowds. This pristine location offers breathtaking views of rugged cliffs and the expansive Atlantic Ocean, making it an ideal spot for nature lovers and those seeking tranquility.(
Playa Benijo
Playa
Punta de Teno. Located at the farthest edge of northwestern Tenerife, Punta de Teno is one of the island’s most impressive and remote spots. This natural haven, part of the Teno Rural Park, offers spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean, the towering cliffs of Los Gigantes, and its iconic lighthouse standing proudly against the rugged landscape.
We suggest visiting at sunset, when the place transforms into something truly magical, offering unique colors and stunning views of La Gomera.
Access to Punta de Teno is restricted to protect its fragile environment, and visitors must take a public bus to reach it. This regulation ensures a more peaceful and sustainable experience for everyone. cable car by reserving a ticket in advance.
Punta del Hidalgo. Located in the northeastern part of Tenerife, is a charming coastal spot that combines natural beauty, tranquility, and breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean.
One of its highlights is the Roque Dos Hermanos, two striking rock formations rising from the sea, offering an impressive sight perfect for contemplation and photography.
Faro de Punta del Hidalgo, with its modern design and stunning location, is an iconic landmark. From here, coastal trails provide relaxed walks with views of the ocean and surrounding cliffs.
Punta del Hidalgo is also famous for its pools offer a refreshing and safe place to swim.
Piscinas Altagay
Roque dos Hermanos
Roque dos Hermanos - Punta del Hidalgo
Parque Rural de Anaga. The Anaga Biosphere Reserve, spanning over more tan 48.000 hectares in Tenerife, is a UNESCOrecognized area rich in environmental, social, and cultural heritage. This unique ecosystem hosts numerous endemic plant and animal species, some endangered, highlighting the need for conservation.
Traditional farming and livestock practices reflect the resilience of local communities,
preserving ancient crops and methods adapted to the rugged terrain. The area is also home to cultural traditions, festivals, and folklore that showcase its vibrant community spirit.
Anaga offers not only breathtaking landscapes but also a living testament to the history and culture of its people. Its network of trails and villages invites visitors to explore and connect with nature while supporting its preservation.
RTH ERN NOR GES VILLA
The northern villages of Tenerife are full of charm, where history, culture, and nature blend naturally. Surrounded by green mountains and the vast Atlantic Ocean, these lovely little towns invite you to enjoy their unique beauty and relaxed atmosphere.
The traditional architecture of Tenerife’s northern villages beautifully reflects the island’s rich heritage and deep connection to its surroundings.One of its most iconic elements are the wooden Canarian balconies, both decorative and functional, offering shade and ventilation while highlighting exquisite craftsmanship.
Houses are typically adorned with red tile roofs, whitewashed walls, and inner courtyards framed by wooden columns. Lava stone details add a sense of strength and authenticity to the architecture, connected to the island’s volcanic origins.
Masca. A beautiful tiny village nestled among dramatic cliffs and lush vegetation. Known for its stunning views and remote charm, it was historically a hidden refuge for locals.
The beauty of Masca isn’t just in the village itself but also in the journey to get there. The road leading to Masca is spectacular, winding through the mountains with countless viewpoints where you’ll want to stop and take in the breathtaking landscape.
We paused at a local restaurant to enjoy a “barraquito,” a traditional Canarian coffee made with condensed milk, Licor 43, espresso, foamed milk, and a sprinkle of cinnamon. It was the perfect treat to complement the experience.
Garachico. Once the island’s main port, it’s a picturesque coastal village with streets full of history, traditional architecture, and natural swimming pools formed by volcanic lava. The town was rebuilt after a volcanic eruption in 1706 and retains a tranquil charm.complement the experience.
San Juan de la Rambla
Orotava. The most populated town in the north of the island, giving it a lively and authentic local atmosphere. Famous for its beautifully preserved historic center, traditional Canarian houses, and lush gardens. If you are interested in traditional architecture and local culture, you can visit “La casa de los balcones”, a 17th-century mansion showcasing Canarian architecture and craft traditions.
Icod de los Vinos. Home to the ancient Drago Milenario (Dragon Tree), a centuries-old symbol of Tenerife’s natural heritage, is a charming village also renowned for its local wines, particularly the sweet malvasía. Its rich history is reflected in landmarks like the Church of San Marcos, which stands as a testament to the area’s cultural and architectural legacy.
TA SAN UZ CR
Santa Cruz may not have the village charm of Tenerife’s northern towns, but it offers its own vibrant appeal as the island’s cultural and artistic hub. One of its key highlights is the TEA Tenerife Espacio de las Artes, a cutting-edge museum and cultural center that showcases contemporary art and photography. The striking architecture of the TEA itself, designed by Herzog & de Meuron, makes it worth a visit.
Currently, the TEA is hosting a remarkable exhibition on Óscar Domínguez, one of Tenerife’s most celebrated artists and a significant figure in the Surrealist movement. Known for his bold and innovative techniques, Domínguez played a key role in shaping modern art in the 20th century. The exhibition is available until May 2025, making it a mustsee for art enthusiasts.
There are also a variety of smaller galleries, such as Bibli, Leyendecker and Galería ATC.
Santa Cruz
It’s also interesting to visit the capital to discover what is going on in terms of food, with the recent opening of Moral, a new gastronomic venture we explore further in the food section.
A visit to the Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África offers a taste of local life, where you can find fresh produce, Canarian specialties, and a lively atmosphere.
If architecture interests you, don’t miss the Auditorio de Tenerife, designed by Santiago Calatrava. This striking structure is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks and a hub for concerts and cultural events.
FO OD
Moral – Santa Cruz de Tenerife. It is one of the most recent openings in the island’s capital. A personal project by the young chef couple Icíar (from El Hierro) and Juan Carlos (from Tenerife). After many years working in haute cuisine, they decided to start their own restaurant. The experience was a perfect 10 from start to finish: from the design of the venue to the choice of tableware and napkins, the quality of the bread, and the originality and flavor of the dishes.
Guachinche el Cubano – La Orotava . You can’t visit Tenerife without eating at a guachinche (a typical homemade food restaurant from northern Tenerife). El Cubano is one of the most popular ones, notable for its views of the La Orotava valley. It is located at the end of a somewhat tricky road, which somehow adds to the experience of going there to eat. They serve homemade dishes and grilled meats in very generous portions. The roasted cheese is to die for.
Mesón Casa Mi Madre – Las Aguas. A restaurant specializing in fresh fish, which we recommend accompanying with the house salad and some “papas arrugadas” with mojo. An absolute delight. The place is very pleasant and cozy, as is all the staff. We recommend booking a table on the terrace.
OTHER DINING OPTIONS
Casa África
Playa del Roque de las Bodegas
El Burgado Buenavista del Norte
Cofradía de la Punta del Hidalgo Punta del Hidalgo
A family-run restaurant offering traditional Canarian cuisine, located in front of a beautiful beach.
Located in a privileged coastal setting, offering breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean.
A classic spot to enjoy fresh fish and seafood, always served with the traditional “papas arrugadas” and mojo in a laid-back setting.
Other recommended Guachinches:
3 Dragos
El Ramal
La Huerta de Ana y Eva
La Laguna
La Matanza de Acentejo
La Orotava
Casa Pepe La Victoria de Acentejo
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A travel Guide by OUTLIERS for The Meliá Collection