ricotta laced lamb ragu is solid. Equally pleasing is the chicken saltimbocca, which manages the neat trick of wrapping the breast in prosciutto and gruyere without smothering the flavor of the bird. The familiar steak house desserts: lemon tart, key lime tart, tarte Tatin, do the job nicely—but the standout, a hazelnut sundae so dangerously fine as to incite a spoon fight, is currently a special. End Cut is that rare restaurant that’s content to be what it is: an excellent neighborhood destination that, because it succeeds without overreaching, is well worth the trip. Chef Jordan should be very proud of that. I’m sure the spirit of his dad is proud of him. I wish I didn’t live an hour away from End Cut. However, if Chef Jordan would consider putting in a bowling alley and an indoor pool, I might consider moving closer.
T H E
M O U N T A I N S
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END CUT 1746 Route 9W West Park, NY 845.384.6590 open: Thursday – Monday, 4pm-9pm Until 10pm Friday & Saturday
The Elm
emulsion laced with parsley oil, meaty If going out to eat was octopus brightened by a just about the food, I’d charged salsa verde and implore you to drop a kick of pepper coulis, everything, go on Resy burrata savvily paired as you jump in the with squash and a brisk car and drive to Great anchovy vinaigrette. Barrington, because Even King’s oysters there’s a new, extremely get special treatment gifted young chef in thanks to his pink town. Ian King is just out peppercorn mignonette. of CIA (Culinary Institute However, the marinated of America), but he’s one lobster salad may be terrific find. my favorite item on great expectations Chef Ian King has elevated The fare was good the menu. Not only is it The Elm’s food to being the when we first sampled sensational, but it’s also best in Great Barrington. The Elm right after its priced to be irresistible. opening, but King’s There are two recent arrival has elevated its food to the appealing pastas on the menu: a vibrant best in town. We greedily devoured just preparation for gnocchi using pistachio about everything on his menu: sweetly arugula pesto and chili oil, and the housecharred beets in taleggio counterbalanced made semolina strands in a rich medley of by crispy leeks, citrusy hake crudo locally harvested mushrooms in a sauce accompanied by an unexpectedly of cognac and ricotta. I don’t remember conversation-stopping buttermilk the last time I had scallops that made me
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