Northumbrian Mountaineering Club A series of downloadable PDF guides to new bouldering venues , problems, highballs and routes in Northumberland. Including: The Stell
Whiteheugh
Raven’s Crag
Caller Crag , Corby’s and Edlingham
Greensheen Hill
Parkside Wood
The Maiden Chambers Area
St Cuthbert’s Cave
The Bowden Area
The Wanneys Group
Beanly Moor and Hunterheugh
Blakey’s Bloc
Cockenheugh
Kyloe Out
Rothley
The Ravensheugh Area
Banno Crags
Titlington and the Turban
South Yardhope
Brady’s Crag
Coquet View
Shitlington
The Lost World
Lookwide
NMC Northumbrian Mountaineering Club
Sandy Crag — A Climbing and Bouldering Guide
...Northumberland Bouldering
Introduction... TECHNICAL NOTES
BOULDERING GRADES
The location of each crag is indicated by its Grid Reference.
It is true to say that there are only two grades, the problems and routes you can do, and those you can’t. To the keen boulderer however it soon becomes apparent that this can be sub divided into the problems you can do and your mates can’t, and vice versa! Grading boulder problems (and some routes) is an almost impossible task. The table below is a rough comparison of the common systems in use. Visitors to the County will probably find that, until they get used to the style of the problems and the intricacies of climbing on the County’s various Sandstones, the accuracy of the table will be questionable. Grades are an art rather than a science, and while FONT UK TECH V GRADE difficulty is central to bouldering , it is easily confused with qualiGRADE GRADE ty. The pursuit of which is an equally rewarding endeavour. 3 4c VB The various grading systems are well understood, and like grades are an ongoing source of debate regarding their respective merits. 4 5a In these PDF guides we have retained the Font grades introduced V0 in the last guidebook and their use is now established and un4+ 5b derstood.
Maps The County is covered by seven Ordnance Survey Explorer (1:25,000) maps. Sheets 339 (Kelso), 340 (Holy Island), OL16 (The Cheviot Hills), 332 (Alnwick and Amble), OL42 (Kielder Water), 325 (Morpeth) and OL43 (Hadrian’s Wall). The majority of the crags lie on sheets 340 and 332.
General On occasions the problems are referenced to routes that are not described in the climbing guide, or in the second edition bouldering guide. You may need these guides or to ask a local climber help you locate the problems.
Sit Starts Most problems are written up as standing starts off one mat only! Generally sit starts are added at the end of a description where they add either to the difficulty, or quality. Only rarely will a sit start be separately named.
Rules It has long been understood in Northumberland that if a twig is found on a ‘good’ foothold, then the foothold is out of bounds. The same applies to bedding planes , ledges and footholds in contact with the ground. Usually these are out of bounds. The previous guide wisely suggested that if you are wondering if the foothold is in, then it probably is not!
Further Information The NMC website has a variety of resources relating to climbing in the County. If you have this PDF you’ve probably found it already. Otherwise go to: www.thenmc.org.uk
Highballs
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The height of many crags in the County demands a highball approach. Mats can reduce the consequences when highballing goes wrong, but there comes a point when they look very small. Many of these ‘problems’ would have been considered small routes not long back, (though some in this new series are not so small) and occasionally are compounded with bad landings. Falling off them should not be treated casually. While highballs are self-evident, many shorter problems have bad landings and need careful padding and spotting. Be careful!
5+
New Problems Descriptions of new problems and routes should be sent to newroutes @thenmc.org.uk. A description, grade, date and name of first ascentionist should be included. A photo with a line marking the route would also help.
V1 5c
6a 6a+
V2 6a
V3
6b 6b+ 6c
V4 6b
V5
6c+ 7a
V6
Steve Blake
7a+
Dutch Courage
7b
Shitlington
7b+
V8
7c
V9
Greensheen Slopers Traverse
7c+
V10
Greensheen Hill
8a
Bob Smith
Photo: Alec Burns
6c
7a
8a+ 8b
V7
V11 V12
7b
V13
8b 8b+
V14
8c
V15
8c+
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Introduction...
...Northumberland Bouldering 3.3. Be gentle with brushwork, and minimal with your chalk. Climbing indoors, we can brush the holds to our hearts content; outdoors, the effect can be catastrophic.
SUSTAINABILITY The quality and durability of Sandstone in Northumberland varies significantly both on and between crags. Iron hard rock with a case hardened patina can coexist with a super soft cheesy substance soft enough to be shaped by hand. Sadly there is much evidence that the tough patina when worn away reveals a soft inner that rapidly erodes. There are many examples, but Vienna at Bowden Doors is probably the most famous example, which in its current deplorable state is a much easier and sad shadow of the original .
4.4. Poor footwork also impacts, so clean your shoes before you begin an attempt. Modern shoes allow a huge amount of force to be exerted through the feet, eg twisting on smears has a grinding effect that speeds up erosion. Be aware, use good footwork and tread lightly. 5.5. Don’t use the problems for training. Running laps may look cool, but do it indoors on plastic, not on the rock. 6.6. Take your junk home, don’t light fires, don’t leave gates open. If you must, learn how to shit in the woods. Do not be generally antisocial.
Over the last thirty years the popularity of Rock Climbing and Bouldering has accelerated and there is much similar evidence of our impact on the crags. Routes and problems on Sandstone, especially on fragile and well-used Sandstone, are a finite resource and need careful and sensitive protection if they are to survive. It is worth repeating that you should not climb on sandstone when there is any evidence of dampness. The rock becomes significantly weaker losing its bonding when damp, and is susceptible to accelerated erosion and breakage. Once a break occurs, or the outer patina is penetrated, then the effects of erosion are exponential.
David Murray On Barnaby Rudge The Good Book Section, The Stell. Alec Burns collection
Vienna Bowden Doors
Many magnificent routes in Northumberland have escaped significant damage, principally because the habit of top roping hard routes has not been adopted as readily as elsewhere. Bouldering however, is a particularly intensive game which can see a team cycling through repeated attempts on a problem, brushing and ragging between each effort. The impact of this can be seen on relatively recent problems on which holds are already bleaching out., and this is on rock thought of as hard. We are the stewards of these places. There are many things we can do to minimise our direct impact on them: 1. Everyone should acknowledge and understand the fragility of the medium and learn to walk away if there is any suggestion of dampness and the rock is not in condition. 2. Set yourself a realistic number of attempts at a problem, if you can’t do it, leave it until you can do it without beating it into submission. We need to have enough humility to understand that the rock’s needs are more important than our egos. Learn to walk away and come back when you’re capable.
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Introduction... Sandy Crags (The Land of Milk and Honey)
...Sandy Crag OS Map Sheet OL42 : GR NY 97586 97273
The crag is on CROW land, and there is a right of access to it. There are however , restrictions in place and dogs are not allowed.
Crag Overview
Location Data
Altitude: 314m Aspect: North and West Facing Approach: @35 Minutes
Parking Lat Long: WGS84 55.288488 –2.049178 Parking GR: NY 96974 9378
N
The approach route described should be used. Note that this is a working moor and as a curtesy the Gamekeeper should be called on 01669640272 Aspect and Approach
P
Approach from Rothbury in the East, or Elsdon in the West via the B6341
Ravensheugh Tosson
Sandy Crags, (not to be confused with Key Heugh which is 500m SW, sits on the edge of the Hepple Moor escarpment and is part of the same exposed bedding plane that includes Key Heugh, Tosson, Ravensheugh and Simonside. The crag, like the others mentioned earlier is in a fine position and looks North to the Cheviots and beyond. Like all of these crags it is an exposed venue, but is ideal for a summers day when lower crags are oppressively hot. The orientation of the boulders means that something shady will be found until mid afternoon when the sun eventually hits the main face.
Sandy Crag Key Heugh
The approach is similar to that for Sandy and has been agreed with the Estate. While the crag is on access land (and can be accessed by Public Footpath) the approach described is by far the easiest. Please call the keeper before heading out as there are occasional shoots on the moor that could be disrupted. Park at the National Trust car park 250m North of the entrance to Midge Ha at Hepplewoodside Bridge. Walk back and go through the entrance to the Hepplewoodside track, follow this past the keepers lodge and continue until Midge Ha comes into view. At this point there is a dry stone wall and stile next to the track.
Simonside
Crag Detail Midge Ha
Drystone Wall
N
Missing Gate
Cairn Tosson Approach
Turn left and with the dry stone wall on your left cross another fence and pole stile onto the access land/moor. Follow the wall around to the left. After about 400m there is a gap in the wall that is missing the gate. A small cairn on the right marks the start of a track through the heather. Continue to a junction with a larger track and turn right, after 40m another cairn marks a track heading diagonally left. Follow this, aiming for the left hand side of the Bilberry covered slope ahead. Some subtle tracks go diagonally through this and deposit you on the small plateau below the crag. At this point a number of tracks head to the two sections of the crag, pick your way across to whichever section you’re headed to.
Cairn
Bilberry Slope
Crag Location Data
Sandy Crag
Crag Lat Long: WGS 84 55.272097 –2.044111
Key Heugh
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Crag GR: NY 97586 97273
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Northumberland Bouldering
...Sandy Crag
History It is thought that the crag was first visited by Andrew Earl and Mick Rudden who were reported as saying the crag wasn't suitable for climbing! This legend persisted until 2015 when Steve Blake walked up to the crag and discovered the potential for bouldering and routes. Bob Smith was recruited and in early 2015 the two developed the early routes on the West boulders. Almost simultaneously Franco Coockson (who had moved to the area fron Yorkshire) was investigating the aretes on Key Heugh and wandered over to have a look at the crag. He quietly worked several routes, eventually succeeding on the Horse. Meanwhile Tim Blake, supported by his dad did the classic corner line of Tradmans Crack . Franco was also working several other lines: the large wall left of the corner, but in working the route he unfortunately broke many of the holds, what remains proved too difficult for him and remains a considerable challenge. Similarly the wall right of the Horse has an obvious line that he attempted. Franco then published a video of the Horse and Steve Blake became aware of his interest.
Northumberland Bouldering
...Sandy Crag
Steve Blake On Cushy Butterfield’s teetering mantle. Photo: Bob Smith
With the crag in the public domain, Steve introduced Dan Varian to the crag. On his first visit Dan cleaned and climbed the left hand arête resulting in Night Moves a very highball 6c+ and repeated onsight and ground up, the Horse. Si Lichfield established the left hand line on the rear arête of the pinnacle ‘Glue Factory,’ while Steve Blake climbed the centre of the wall ‘Hoarse Whisperer’. There is scope for further development, the plateau above the crag is littered with buttresses and craglets that await the enthusiast. Some problems have been established by Steve and Tim Blake on the Mushroom and Reptiles Back blocs. These lie some 500m South of the crag and will be included in a subsequent miniguide
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Northumberland Bouldering The Aretes
...Sandy crag The Horse
The Land of Milk and Honey
Northumberland Bouldering
…Sandy Crag The Diamond
The Far Side
The Shire
Bob’s Bloc
Slab & Crack
The Pinnacle
Dan Varian
Bob Smith
On the First Ascent of:
Bird of Pray
Night Moves 6c+
Bob Smith Collection
Steve Blake Collection
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Northumberland Bouldering 1. All Alone. 6c. SB. The left side of the base of the pinnacle. Pull up and trend right to the flake then back left to the heather ledge. The arête/slab above may be possible and is an open project.
….The Land of Milk and Honey 4. Positive Contact 8a. DV. The wall and blunt rib behind the pinnacle . A short bu brilliant problem culminating in a hard slap to the sloper
5. Night Moves. 6c+. DV. The fine left hand arête of the main buttress. Technically not a high P. The right overhanging arête is an open project. number, but very highball! Climb (relatively) easclamp your way to success or the hospital. ily up to the undercut. Pull up to a decent pinch 2. The Glue Factory. E3 5c. SL. On the rear of the high on the arête this brings good holds in the pinnace, the up the left arête and span across to the base of the diagonal crack into reach. flake. Up this to the notch. P… The large wall was shunted by Franco Cook3. The Night Porter. 6a+ SB. The centre of the son but proved too brittle and key holds broke. It back wall. To the same flake. Less likely to deposit may or may not be climbable. If it is, it will likely you on the boulders below. prove hard.
Northumberland Bouldering
…The Land of Milk and Honey
6. Tradman’s Crack. HVS 5a TB. The rattling scrattling corner crack is followed throughout. 7. The Horse. E8 f6c/7a? FC. Climb easily up to the ‘hole’, continue to some small crimps and an obvious small layaway crimp for the right hand. P.The diagonal line to the right of the Horse is an open project. 8. The Shetland Pony. 6a SB. Diminutive. At the extreme right hand side of the wall a small and delicate ironstone seam is apparent. Use this CAREFULLY to reach up and left to a mantleshelf finish.
7. Pegasus. HVS. TB. The corner crack is a clas-
3 2 8
7 6
4 5 Steve Blake 1
Making use of his span. Stuck in the Middle.
Dan Varian
Bob Smith
The ‘good pinch’ on Night moves Steve Blake collection.
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Northumberland Bouldering
….Sandy Crag
Northumberland Bouldering
…Sandy Crag
2. The Glue Factory. E4 5c. SL.
Dan Varian On Positive Contact
This palms the left arete, kicking right to reach the flake and thus the notch in the top of the pinnacle. Because of it’s proximinty to the edge, a fall may see you deposited on the boulders below. The trad grade suggested by Si Litchfield reflects this.
Steve Blake Collection
3. The Hoarse Whisperer . 6a+ SB. This climbs the centre of the pinnacle to the diagonal rail, via a prominent ironstone nodule. Much safer than the previous route! The descent from the pinnacle is down the East side at about VS. via the prominent (and hollow) flat hold.
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Steve Blake Finishing Bird of Pray Bob Smith Collection Rich Lanham On The Hoarse Whisperer Steve Blake Collection
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Northumberland Bouldering
….The Far Side 1.
Bobs Block North Side
Northumberland
...Bobs Bloc
Bird of Pray Right Hand Start. 6b+ BS. Sit Start, pull up the rib and continue.
2. Scooper Trooper. 7b. DV. Pull into the scoop using some small crimps and a testy rock over.
5. Dan’s Line Use the footholds just over the lip to reach the blunt rib.
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6. The Sneak Thief. 6b SB. Step onto the extreme right rib and pad up the lip of the slab to the blunt rib.
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7. Tic Tac Toe. 6a SB. The line up the slab right of the rib.
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7. Tic Tac Toe. 6a SB. The line up the slab right of the rib. 8. Whaleback. 4. SB. Pad up the blunt rib.
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1. Bird of Pray Left Hand Start. 6c BS. Standing , pull up the rib using the feint slopers and continue. To a difficult pull over 2. A Cry for Help. 7a+. DV. Pull up to the obvious hold on the wall above the crack, span to the arête and roll over to finish as for Bird of Prey.
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Northumberland Bouldering
….The Far Side - The Shire Bloc
12. The Shire 6a+.SB. The wall just left Bobs Block North Side of the right arête. A little hollow—be careful.
The Shire Bloc
Northumberland
...The Far Side—Slab and Crack
9. The Crack. 6b. SB. The crack is difficult to start but eases quickly. 10. The Left Hand Finish. 6a. SB. Span up and left to the arête.
13. The Retirement Plan. 7a. SB. Pull onto the slabby left arête, continue to a difficult mantleshelf and finish (A sit start awaits someone). It is best not to look over your rights shoulder!
11. The Slab. 6b/6c?. SB Traverse in from the left , a scary highball that could eject you onto the slope below. This is not the stroll it looks—Be careful!
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11a. The Groove Start. Pull, press, squirm and roll onto the slab from the groove .
14. The Traverse Start. 7a. SB. Traverse in from the obvious large holds to a very delicate section (don’t look down) and continue up the arête.
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13 11a
14 The Shire Bloc can be climbed easily on it’s backside and slithered down in descent. There is scope for more lines up the centre of the slab, but it’s pretty tall and the ground below slopes away sharply!
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Steve Blake Finishing his Retirement Plan Bob Smith Collection
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