Where art meets gastronomy

Since getting it’s first Michelin star 17 years ago, El Lago has just kept getting more artistic and creative, writes Jon Clarke

IT has long been one of the most sustainable and forward-thinking restaurants in Spain.

But El Lago, which is a staunch supporter of the KM-0 Slow Food concept, is also getting more and more creative.

The Marbella joint, which has held on to its Michelin star since 2005, serves up some of the most beautiful dishes on the coast.

Thanks to its talented chef Fernando Villasclaras, the vast majority of the creations are made with vegetables and fruit.

While they do have meat and fish on the menu, Villasclaras, from nearby Nerja, sources his ingredients from dozens of growers around Andalucia.

Artichokes from Alhaurin, aubergines from Coin and radishes from Estepona… these are the true stars of his restaurant.

“The roots of El Lago started with the Slow Food concept,” he explains. “I am fanatical about finding the best local ingredients and thankfully we are spoiled for choice in Andalucia.”

A great example is his take on a healthy French classic ‘Gargouillou’, a delicious fusion of over two dozen different blanched vegetables.

Villasclaras trained with Spanish genius Andoni Luis Aduriz, at Mugaritz, as well as Heston Blumenthal, of Fat Duck fame, in the UK.

Visit www.restauranteellago.com and full Olive Press review online: www.theolivepress.es

From page 16

Beach clubs and more

brand new Peruvian joint Coya is making massive waves.

And then there is my top tip for something new and exciting this year; Sauvage, in the heart of town, run by two former Marbella Club chefs, one who trained at three Michelin starred Celler de can Roca.

Also extremely likely to do big things this year is Nomad, the latest creation of the talented Metro Group, which has just opened in Nueva Andalucia.

A stunning place, with no expense spared, their launch chef Alex Craciun, is the executive chef of the UK’s leading Jason Atherton group. A man who has also worked with top UK chef Gordon Ramsay and at world-famous

Noma in Denmark, it was no surprise to find an extremely varied menu, with some amazingly deft touches. For beach clubs Bono Beach is a surefire winner, in particular, for its amazing attention to detail and client care. Another favourite, Macaao will hopefully reopen later this summer after a total rebuild, while Pu- ente Romano’s Sea

Grill is always popular.

It’s more tricky to find somewhere good to eat in the old town, but Candela, with German chef Andy on the chopping board, is a good tip, while Casanis is a great spot and Altamirano comes highly recommended by most.

I must also mention Skina, which now has two stars in the heart of the old town, and its owner, a sommelier by training, Marcos Granda’s new Asiatic restaurant Nintao, which already has a star around the corner.

Nearby in San Pedro de Alcantara, you have the excellent Savor, where well travelled Pablo Castillo regularly changes the menu with a sprinkle of stardust, while the secret spot El Cortijo de Ramiro, in Guadalmina, is where the power-brokers-in-the-know go to eat.

For a drive into the hills look out for the charming restaurant at Alcuzcuz, one of the true gems in the hills of Marbella (albeit technically Benahavis). Just 200m further up the road is the architectural masterpiece El Coto, which recently opened for the super rich and super-picky gourmands around Zagaleta and Madronal.

In the tourist hive of Puerto Banus one might expect it to be rammed with great places to eat, but the truth is it can be very hit and miss.

Stick with the classic spots like Jacks, Leone and Mumtaz, probably the best Indian in Marbella, and you can’t go wrong.

You’d probably however, be better off walking out of the port up towards the unbelievably popular stalwart of La Sala… that is if you can get in. Incredibly, now 15 years old, it is the place to do your star spotting and just about everyone who’s anyone has been to eat here (see our centrespread this issue).

Most likely Marbella’s most successful restaurant of the last decade, it employs over 100 staff and includes a football team of investors, including David Bentley, Shay Given and most recently Harry Winks.

The food is not just excellent value for its location, but the menu changes regularly and there will always be some entertainment. In particular, with the fellow guests.

Finally, and reluctantly, I feel the need to mention one Dani Garcia, a man who really helped to put Marbella on the map, in particular a few years ago when he won his third Michelin star at his Puente Romano joint, before controversially throwing them all in the same year.

A local Marbella man, who became famous winning a star for Ronda two decades ago with Tragabuches, he still has his imprint all over the resort, and is involved in at least half a dozen restaurants.

Brasilian Rodizio, different cuts of quality meat cut directly at the table and typical side dishes

You literally can’t miss him, with a huge advertising hoarding as you pass Corte Ingles in Banus, but the truth is, among the local culinary movers and shakers, his star is somewhat waning.