TOP OF THE WORLD

Spain has officially ground down its rivals to once again prove it’s the global dining capital, insists Jon Clarke

WITH a trio of restaurants in the World’s Top Five, it’s fair to say that Spain is still leading the way in the kitchen.

The three long-time competitors have been jostling for their positions in the prestigious 50 Best list since 2019… but it’s the first time they all made it so high. Indeed, it’s the first time for over a decade that a trio of Spanish joints have dominated the top five in the 50 Best poll.

IN the small village of Axpe in the Basque region, the asador is a total contrast to its rivals on the list, favouring simplicity over experimentation. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t magic and his place has become a true destination restaurant noteworthy for its grill techniques.

Chef Victor Arguinzoniz’s more than 30 years of experience with ‘fire cooking’ contributes to his traditional approach and meticulous style –every dish that exits the kitchen is given his signature touch.

The restaurant thrives off local produce and elevating ingredients by highlighting their natural flavours.

20. Quique Dacosta, Denia 22. Elkano, Getaria

and when it shut they set up together in 2014.

JUST two years after he began his career as a chef in 1986, at just 16 years of age, Quique Dacosta began working at a restaurant that would later share his name. His food takes an artistic approach to the geographies and cuisines of the Mediterranean and nearby Montgo Natural Park. Putting Valencian cuisine very much on the map, his respect for nature — the roots of the restaurant — comes forth in every bite.

You have to go back to 2010 when legendary El Bulli, Mugaritz and Cellar de Can Roca were in the top five. The trio this year - Disfrutar, Diverxo and Asador Etxeberri - have been consistently leading the charge creatively for decades.

The team at Disfrutar, at number two, fittingly worked together under Ferran Adria’s incredible guiding eye at El Bulli from the late 1990s

AT this incredibly picturesque spot, Aitor Arregi uses his method of whole-grilling fish over a wood fire as the foundation of his flavour.

Playing off Getaria’s gastronomic heritage, this method of cooking has become an integral part of the town’s cuisine and a tradition for Arregi, whose father, Pedro, opened the first Elkano back in 1964. There is a distinct emphasis on sustainability and the local connection is reflected within the dishes and maritime decor.

AT Mugaritz, presentation is anthropomorphic in the most intimate and wondrous ways. Take the dish ‘heart that does not feel’ which is a flat, almost 2D slice of meat with ribbons of fat representing the aorta.

Mugaritz has long taken a phil-

64. Aponiente, Cadiz

At Diverxo, Dabiz Muñoz and his exwife even slept on the floor of their legendary food factory so dedicated were they to getting their first Michelin star.

While at Etxeberri, Victor Arguinzoniz just did his own thing on his rustic Basque grill for 30 years as he slowly found the world starting to beat a wooden spoon to his door.

But there is more. In the 50 Best list osophical approach to food thanks to its intellectual chef Andoni Luis Aduriz. He’s probably now one of the world’s most boundary-pushing cooks and has been in the 50 Best list for well over a decade.

CHEF Ángel León is recognized as “The Chef of the Sea” for utilising ingredients from the Mediterranean and Atlantic sea in his evolving menus.

The current rendition, based on the infinite sea, commits to sustainability and new techniques. Even in the dessert section, the restaurant blends together traditional sweets with seafood.

82. Enigma, Barcelona

ENIGMA uses seasonal ingredients in their monthly menus and offers different wine experiences. The finishing touches on the meals are added right at the table so guests can witness the ever changing techniques.

this year Spain once again has six revolutionary restaurants… with Valencia’s Quique Dacosta very much back in the limelight, Elkano picked for its amazing use of turbot (and other fish) and Mugaritz, thanks to the legendary Andoni Luis Aduriz, Spain’s genius extraordinaire! And finally, four more restaurants make the Top 100 meaning 10% of the world’s best places to eat are in Spain. Here the Olive Press tells you everything you need to know about them:

81. Azurmendi, Biscay

AZURMENDI’S emphasis on sustainabili ty has contributed to its standout rela tionship with its environment, including its use of new technologies to develop dishes.

96. Ricard Camarena Restaurant, Valencia

THE different proposals offered here emphasis utilising every part of an ingredient, with menus based on homegrown vegetables that are added to sauces and even drinks.