Olive Press Spain Issue 398 by Olive Press Newspaper Spain

The

OLIVE PRESS

voice in Spain

Mijas Costa

Vol. 16 Issue 398 www.theolivepress.es July 13th - July 26th 2022

Fight them on the beaches

C O S TA

Pic credit: Jose Maria Caballero

Battle lines are being drawn as massive mega-project could see 600 football pitches of homes and hotels ‘swamp’ Tarifa’s famous virgin beaches

DISFIGURE: Plans (below) show how the unspoilt Los Lances beach will be ruined He added: “I understand there are some large banks behind it, but in Spain everything is in danger. Development here is big business, like cars are in Germany.” In the most recent scheme to be announced, the town hall is backing plans to build 730 homes and a number of hotels (comprising 1,360 bedrooms) in a 623,000 square metre area right opposite Los Lances beach. The mostly wooded area - inside the protected Paraje Natural de Los Lances - currently has almost no buildings, apart from the La Codorniz hotel and restaurant. Developers hope however, to overcome the

area’s current protection status and their plans have been sent to Cadiz for an Environmental Impact Report (EAE). But alarmingly, this is far from all. Another project above nearby Valdevaqueros beach will add to the constant pressure on the area. The scheme, which the Olive Press understands comprises around 60 luxury villas, costing millions of euros each, is already on the drawing board. Another scheme at Las Pinas, will see 50 luxury villas constructed. The Olive Press first reported plans to develop the area in 2012, when a series of protests were organised by the pressure group Salvemos Valdevaqueros.

The body argued that the area was totally unsuitable for development (back then for around 360 homes and various hotels) as it bordered the Parque Natural del Estrecho and sat in the EU’s Red Natura 2000 zone. This week, Tarifa mayor Francisco Ruiz refused to confirm how advanced plans were for any of the schemes.

When pressed on the Lances development, he told the Olive Press: “The project was approved in 2006, but due to the economic crisis building Continues on Page 5

GREEN campaigners are digging in to save one of Andalucia’s last remaining coastal zones. They are launching a national campaign to prevent a series of projects from ‘destroying’ the fragile ecology of the stunning Tarifa coastline. Hundreds of expats are expected to join Ecologistas en Accion to fight the plans that mean around 6.2 million square metres - or 600 football pitches - of protected land are being made available to developers. In plans that have been on the drawing board since 2004, Tarifa town hall is hoping to develop six specific areas, increasing its urban footprint by 450%. “This is the blatant destruction of one of the loveliest bits of coastline in Europe,” Javier Gil, of Ecologistas, told the Olive Press. “Everyone needs to get involved to condemn this invasive and speculative form of tourism that will make the Tarifa area like the Costa del Sol.” The projects at Valdevaqueros, Las Piñas, Torre de La Peña, Los Lances, Pedro Valiente and Cabo Plata (in nearby Atlanterra) total thousands of new homes and dozens of hotels. Apart from an obvious strain on scarce water resources, there will be countless issues of sewage, as well as infrastructure. “It’s absurd to be developing such a large unspoiled area,” said British businessman Peter Whaley, from the Hurricane Hotel group. “We should be trying our best to protect this jewel of the coast, not build all over it.”

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CRIME

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NEWS IN BRIEF Clobber con SOME 20,000 items of fake designer clothing have been seized by police at Fuengirola market, with cops arresting two men after intercepting shipments from Mijas.

Boozed up A DRUNK Belgian man fed up with strike-related delays on a Ryanair flight was arrested after he began hurling insults at fellow passengers and tried to open the plane’s emergency exit.

Slashed A FATHER and son have been arrested after they attacked an architect with a samurai sword in a row over noisy building work in Marbella.

Licence to bill POLICE have arrested eight people for selling fake driving licences online at up to €20,000 a pop in addition to offering sham loans.

POLICE have busted a football betting ring that operated in Spain and Gibraltar. Investigators say the network made more than €500,000, mostly on illicit gambling linked to Spain’s Third Division. The gang also betted on Gibraltar’s National League. Cops have arrested 21 people and another six are under investigation for organised crime, corruption and fraud.

BAD ODDS

In raids during Operation Conifera €60,000 in cash and two vehicles were seized. Investigators say that the gang relied on two ‘leaders’ who had close connections to professional football. They approached players who provided

July 13th - July 26th 2022 confidential information in order to influence matches. Information gained would then be used by ‘procurers’ who provided fake identities for online gambling and mules to place sports bets and collect prize money. Members of the network were careful to use encrypted communications, a mix of in-person and online betting, and placed bets in installments to avoid detection.

Crime first as cops seize submarine drones used by drugs smugglers

HIGH SEAS

POLICE have impounded three underwater drones built to smuggle narcotics from Morocco across the Straits of Gibraltar. The unmanned submersibles were able to carry up to 200kg of cargo. The drones were equipped with sophisticated technology, allowing their remote operation from anywhere in the world. Their discovery is the culmination of a year-long investigation, with eight people

arrested in Cadiz, Malaga, and Barcelona. The group supplied the drones to drug smugglers across the continent. It is the first known instance of an underwater vehicle being operated unmanned for the purposes of drug smuggling, claimed a police spokesman. He added: “These devices could allow drug traffickers to transport large quantities of narcotics remotely.”

By George Mathias

A GANG that avoided paying millions of euros in carbon taxes has been busted. According to police, the cabal illegally transported refrigerant gases from China to Valencia. They claimed to be forwarding the gases - used in fridges and air-conditioning systems - to non-EU destinations. This made them exempt from import taxes and the European market’s carbon emissions

NOVEL: Crooks use new trafficking method In total, police seized 14kg of hashish, 8kg of marijuana, €156,000 in cash, and

Carbon fingerprint tariff. But the gang actually kept the gas in Spain and sold it on the black market at a much reduced price to consumers. Dawn raids were conducted by officers on multiple stakeouts where they arrested 27 suspects involved in the racket.

six drones. Among those arrested were a father and son, with one of them a fully-qualified helicopter pilot who may have been the brains behind the operation.

Epicentre

Spain has become the epicentre of drug smuggling into mainland Europe, owing to its proximity to Morocco, one of the world’s largest hashish producers.

Journalist killers arrested A DUTCH expat has been arrested in connection with the cold-blooded killing of Dutch investigative reporter Peter de Vries. Another man has been held on the Caribbean island of Curacao, with both men suspected of sharing videos of the brutal killing on social media. It came after De Vries, 64, was gunned down in broad daylight on an Amsterdam shopping street on July 6 last year. Within moments of the shooting videos of the murder were being circulated. Police believe they were intentionally shared to ‘increase the social impact of the murder’. De Vries was a high-profile crime reporter and TV personality who had exposed many criminals over a long career.

Shackled ALMOST 40% of gender violence control bracelets are in Andalucia, a government report has revealed. The region currently has 1,085 people wearing wrist and ankle bands that track their movements, 38.3% of the national total, which stands at 2,829 devices.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

SO THAT’S THE POINT

HE famous San Fermin ‘bull running’ festival has eturned to Pamplona after a two-year Covid break with the ‘Chupinazo’ kicking things off with an inaugural rocket. People from all across the world have flocked to the historic city with over one million punters set to attend the eight day bash. While the running of the bulls and associated bullfights are the most high-profile of events, there is much more to the festival than that. A total of 532 events including concerts, fireworks and a ‘wine fight’ take place over the week. Here, the Olive Press takes a look at its history and customs:

KIDS PLAY: Teenager with water pistol at the bullfight

July 13th - July 26th 2022

Who was San Fermin? He was the son of the Roman ruler of Pamplona. His father was convert-

Spain’s biggest festival San Fermin is about much more than just bullrunning, as the Olive Press discovers ed to Catholicism by San Saturino in about 300 AD. Fermin was sent to Toulouse for religious instruction and returned as a bishop. Why do people wear the red scarf (pañuelo) around their necks? As a new bishop, Fermin began to spread his teachings. He ran into trouble in Amiens in France where he was tortured and beheaded before being declared a martyr. The pañuelo represents the blood pouring from his neck during his gruesome death.

Why do people wear white? There are three different theories on this. One is that the peñas, which are local social groups in Pamplona, started to wear white to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd. From here, the tradition spread. Another thought is that before the Running of the Bulls was even an official event, people still needed to guide the bulls from their enclosures to the bullring. They were helped by people on horseback but also others who ran in front of the bulls to get them to follow. These people wore white - hence the tradition. The final theory comes from the three fundamental pillars of the festival. One is spontaneity, the second tradition and the third anonymity irrelevent of wealth and social standing.

HOLY: Celebrations are steeped in the history of slain martyr San Fermin

Are there two San Fermín fiestas? Yes, there is the big messy international one in July, but also a local traditional celebration of the saint in September. There is no bull run or fight, but the religious ceremonies take precedence and, of course, the drinking, fun and fiesta too. Who are the giants with huge heads? The parades of the Gigantes and Cabezudos take place every day of the fiesta. They carry pikes with foam balls on the end and will hit you with them if you annoy them enough. There are FIVE pairs, to represent all the continents, as when this tradition first began, they had no clue about the land down under, and, well, the traditional number stuck.

SCARY: Giants roam the town scaring the revellers (but not all!)

Auto Quickvice

Is there an unofficial running of the bulls every evening? The bulls need to be moved from their enclosures to the pens from where they start the encierro the next morning. At sunset the short run is made in mystical darkness. The street

lamps go out, the crowds are hushed and the nearby fairground comes to a standstill to allow the bulls to move in peace.

ESTUCO INTERIORS

PROCESSIONS: Drummers, virgins and bullrunners

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NEWS

U-TURN CAMPAIGN: British expat stranded without a licence plans to revoke residency in Spain By George Mathias

“We are thinking about revoking our residency. We contribute a huge amount to the Spanish economy and we feel after the Brexit situation we are being victimised,” added Reid, who is now hav-

Bad case THOUSANDS of travellers have been stranded without their luggage as cases pile up at Spanish airports. Many passengers have arrived at their destination, but their luggage has been put on to later flights as so many journeys are at full capacity. When their bags finally arrive no one is there to claim them. Passengers at airports around Spain have reported seeing heaps of cases piled up unclaimed in arrivals. The Spanish airport’s company, AENA, blamed the chaos on other airports in Europe not anticipating such a large number of passengers as bookings surge. Compensation of up to €1,350 can be claimed if your luggage does not appear within 21 days, says consumer organisation FACUA.

U -T U R

ing to be driven around by her son. Despite contacting Transport Minister Grant Shapps, Ambassador Hugh Elliott and MPs Lee Anderson, Andy Carter and even Boris Johnson, she is not holding out much hope. “This is a human rights issue and since Brexit, it feels like our rights are being stripped away. I support the Olive Press’ campaign 100% and pray you make a difference.” Meanwhile Hugh Elliott has yet again refused to provide any details with an agreement eluding both sides.

Priority

“We are still working through the technicalities. Resolving this remains our top priority,” he said last week. The Olive Press campaign to get Brits back on the road is in full swing, with almost 5,000 signatures so far on an official parliamentary petition.

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Political failure

AN expat pensioner stranded unable to drive due to the licence swapping scandal has slammed UK politicians for their ‘total inactivity’. Backing the Olive Press’ U-turn campaign, Sue Reid claims she is now considering moving back to Britain due to the victimisation. The retired hotel manager from Cheshire has so far contacted a host of MPs and mandarins to demand action over the inability of thousands of expats from being able to drive in Spain. “They have either failed to respond or just claimed they’re working towards an agreement,” she said. Reid, who became a resident in early 2021, was given bad advice by a gestor that it would be easy to swap her licence over as an agreement was set to be struck. As with hundreds of others, Reid is now stuck unable to drive in her village of Benijofar, near Alicante.

July 13th July 26th 2022

NEWS

www.theolivepress.es

It comes after a Supreme Court ruling permitted giant olive oil conglomerate Carbonell y Figueras to develop a tourist project in the protected zone of the Campo de Gibraltar. In total, the pair can now build 263 bungalows and six

Describing it as a ‘green gem’ Borondo developer Joan Cruz insists only 1.5% of the 330 hectares of land owned by the olive oil giant will be built on. “The coastal area will be protected and will allow the movement of any wild animals into the Alcornocales park,” he claimed. He added that the developers had travelled the world to visit similar schemes inside national parks in Tanzania, Canada and Ecuador. The company still needs several permissions to start building - and it could take approximately three years to start the construction. Ecologistas is joining the Junta in appealing the decision to the European LOCATION: Touching the sea Court.

Snap happy

MOTORISTS have been caught 47,246 times by a single speed camera in Malaga, with millions of euros of fines collected over the last four years. The camera on the A-7 at Cerrado de Calderon is only marginally more successful than the camera on the A-7 at Rincon de la Victoria, which has dished out 45,648 fines. The two cameras are the third and fourth most prolific in Spain, although it is not known exactly how much they have raised as fines range from €100 to €600 depending on speeds. The busiest camera in Spain is on the AP-7 in Valencia at KM478. It doled out 60,525 fines in the same period.

From front

Tarifa disgrace

hostels over 330 hectares of UNSPOILT: But parkland, home to dozens of protestors ask for protected species, that reachhow much longer? es down to the sea. Environmentalists insist that all activity, including cultivaprevent any alteration of its tion, is strictly banned ecosystem. inside the park to And the Andalucia SuD S preme Court agreed, AN when in 2021, it deIt is a big ask though, as Ecologistas nied permission to spokesman Javier Gil insists. the builders of the “There are only three areas of AnBorondo area, that R dalucia left without mass urban desits between AlcaideT C OS velopment; Cabo de Gata in Almeria, sa and Sotogrande. Donana National Park and around TarThe scheme, which deifa. velopers say will create up to “That is why most of the tourists come to Tar600 jobs, sits in an unrivalled ifa. They come here to see virgin beaches, not area between the A7 motorconcrete. way and Playa del Guadalqui“The mayor is going to deton with amazing sea views. stroy Tarifa and turn it into a resort like many others on the Costa del Sol. “There is not enough land there to build more houses and developers are naturally interested in virgin areas as they know they will be able to sell the properties quickly and expensively.”

GREEN groups have joined the Junta to appeal the construction of a €120 million mega-project in one of Andalucia’s most fragile protected spaces. Ecologistas en Accion have slammed the ‘crazy’ decision to allow nearly 300 buildings to go up inside the only coastal part of the Los Alcornocales Natural Park, near Sotogrande.

VIRGIN DANGER

Final part of protected Costa del Sol coastline set for €120 million megaproject of 300 buildings

July 13th - July 26th 2022

did not begin.” While admitting that environmental laws are much stricter today, he is supporting the project for economic reasons ‘as long as the developers respect the environment.”

Opinion Page 6

AT RISK: The Los Lances area to be developed

Freight night A FREIGHT train has derailed at Ronda station. The 32-wagon train was en route to Corbera, in Catalunya, when it came off the tracks early yesterday. Engineers are continuing to work on cleaning the line, while a bus replacement service has been put on for passenger trains. Fortunately, no one was hurt in the accident.

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6/6/22 10:43

www.theolivepress.es Voted top expat paper in Spain

A campaigning, community newspaper, the Olive Press represents the huge expatriate community in Spain with an estimated readership, including the websites, of more than two million people a month.

OPINION Price of everything, value of nothing EVERYTHING has a price… including Spain’s last virgin beaches. With over six million square metres of pristine coastline in Tarifa in line for urban development, a cabal of bankers and housing developers are rubbing their hands with glee. All rubber stamped by the council, wait for the politicians to wax lyrical about all the jobs it will bring and how much it will clean up the coast. Forget the millions of tourists who visit precisely because they want to enjoy it exactly how it is. Meanwhile the price of the only seaside stretch of Los Alcornocales Natural Park, near Sotogrande, looks to be €120 million. A princely sum it may seem, but not when you consider the unparalleled beauty and unique terrain of this green gem nestled in one of Spain’s most alluring corners. Forget the 600 jobs the Borondo project will bring. The area will be irreversibly altered if it gets the green light and, when finished, if there are two dozen full time sustainable jobs we’d be surprised. There is, of course, a need for more affordable housing in the area, but these developments are not for low-income families, they are for high end holiday homes and tourist retreats for wealthy jet-setters. Perhaps even more concerning is the radio silence from other media outlets here for whom the destruction of such delicate green space is apparently a flippant issue. It falls on all of us to battle the beady-eyed developers who see only euro signs when looking at the most precious natural landscapes in the country. Our Hands off the Costas campaign launched two years ago could be set for a busy summer. PUBLISHER / EDITOR

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NEWS FEATURE

PANISH cinema is at its best when portraying rural life and the award-winning 2022 Alcarràs is no exception. It tells the tale of a struggling farming family divided when their century-old orchard is mercilessly trampled ‘by progress’ in the shape of a solar farm. The award-winning film has struck a chord with audiences already witnessing the colonisation of swathes of rural land by international companies capitalising on Spain’s unique combination of sun and wind. Lightsource (owned by BP) has made Spain its largest renewables market in Europe and is joining others in a race that kicked off when the current Socialist government swept aside the notorious sun tax introduced by the PP government a decade ago. In Andalucia alone, 1,2m hectares are being ringfenced for clean energy purposes while 10% of Teruel province could be covered by panels by 2030. This is when the country’s National Integrated Energy and Climate Plan (PNIEC) hopes to hit a target of 60 gigawatts of clean power, reaching 74% of its energy requirements. Such is the excitementof this ambitious target, it could make the area the ‘Saudi Arabia of Europe’ claims Spanish economist Jose Carlos Diez. And, given Spain’s vast areas of depopulated countryside, it would seem there’s room for everyone to join the party. But like any progress, the renewable energy boom has its detractors. While speculators merely see Spain as hot and sandy, Javier Oquendo, spokesman for

Territorial fight threatens Spain’s bid to become the Saudi of Europe, writes Heather Galloway

VIEW: from the Mas de Cebrian hotel where there are plans for a solar farm the Platform in Defence of Teruel’s Landscape has a different country in mind. “The big corporations don’t care about our stunning countryside. They are just putting the infrastructure here so they can consume the energy elsewhere,” he told the Olive Press this week. “What we want is a kilometre zero policy. Local use of electricity.”

Oquendo stressed however that he is not against renewables. The Teruel platform and more than 200 others like it have grouped under the umbrella association ALIENTE (Energy and Territory Alliance) with the slogan: “Renewables yes, but not like this.” Their first demonstration last year saw 15,000 protesters in Madrid demanding a different, scaled-down model –

one that cuts out big energy firms with their big export projects. Gorka Ederra, spokesman for Navarra’s Salvamos El Perdon platform explaied: “They plan to cover 40% of the Adios region with infrastructure. These big companies make out they’re coming to save rural Spain. I wish they would leave us alone.” The platforms call it ‘the industrialisation of the coun-

SEEDS OF HISTORY

Jack Gaioni takes a look at Spain’s love affair with the olive, and how it defines the past, present and future

LIVES and Spain! Spain and olives! It’s no surprise to those of us who live here that the two are virtually synonymous. Chances are that olives will be part of your next tapas, olive oil will be in your next meal, and that olive groves are within view. Even the Olive Press is named after them. Yet, there is another dimension to olives that you might not have considered – a dimension beyond food, views and newspaper titles, and that’s the role of olives in archaeology. Archaeology is concerned with the recovery and dating of artifacts in an attempt to give history some lineal order. Putting findings in a chronological sequence has long been the subject of debate. Pottery remains have provided archaeologists with one of the most accurate metrics: the shapes, styles, glazing and decorations are reliable indicators that can be confidently associated with different time periods. Also, as pottery is fragile, it is not passed from generation to genera-

tion, but discarded when broken. Since olives have always been such a mainstay in Mediterranean diets, olive seeds and pottery often show up together in archaeological sites – places like ancient hearths, kitchens and rubbish dumps. The olive seed, when subjected to something called carbon-14 dating, has perhaps become the most accurate part of the methodology archaeologists use in determining age. Simply put, all plants are made of carbon, and when they die they release it. Scientists are able to analyse the rate and patterns of plant decomposition and carbon release, and, from that, accurately calculate their age. A high degree of accuracy is possible with seeds in general and olive seeds in particular. Scientists now claim that by carbon dating olive seeds they can place an archaeological dig within a 25year time frame with a ‘confidence rate’ of 90-95%.

The implications are enormous. For example, the veracity of the Old Testament story of David and Solomon has long been debated. Does the story tell of an actual sophisticated and prestigious Jewish empire that stretched from the Mediterranean to the Jordan River? Or is it a myth – a mere allegory – crafted as a symbol for storytellers to buttress their own morality lessons? Recent archaeological digs at sites near Jerusalem and the Jordan Valley have revealed a host of new scientific data as a result of cross-referencing of olive seed dating with sophisticated pottery inscriptions. Some archaeologists offer this as proof positive that the biblical accounts of David and Solomon are accurate.

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July 13th - July 26th 2022

SUMMER’S HERE - WE MAKE IT EASY TO ESCAPE! AS the world descends on the costas…we like to give you some alternatives. While taking a trip to the Costa de la Luz (as we suggest in this issue) is a world away from Marbella, Torrevieja or Javea, the Olive Press likes to help you really escape. For those of us lucky enough to live here, now is the perfect time to head off and explore some of the quieter - and cooler - corners of Spain. From the temperate climes of Galicia, to the mountains of Granada A Costa de la Luz and the historic towns of inland SEEING I Spain - we have researched and THE LIGHT written hundreds of top-quality travel articles over the years. Even better, they can all be found in one place: in our travel section of the Olive Press website. Chock full of ideas of where to visit, where to stay and where to eat. So what are you waiting for? Visit theolivepress.es and the whole of Spain is at your fingertips. ll about

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July 2022

CAPTURED: The moon rising over Vajer

On a second visit to the Costa de la Luz, Jo Chipchase was finally switched on to its beautiful beaches and illuminated villages… oh, and tuna fish

PIC CREDIT: Jon Clarke

EYESORE?: Some residents think solar panels and wind turbines blight the landscape tryside’ and for those in the Some of the area is part of tourism sector the visual im- the European Natura 2000 pact could be very damaging. network of breeding sites for “They plan to fill rare and threatthe field in front ened species of my hotel with and, though ‘Most of the solar panels,” there is legislaexplained Diego tion protecting renewable Pilaquinga who Natural Parks runs the Mas de companies are and Special ProCebrian hotel in tection Areas The top five most read stories on here to make the Sierra Gu(SPAs), when www.theolivepress.es in the past two weeks are: dar-Javalambre. it comes to the money’ The Forestalia’s Natura 2000 - British 17-year old holidaymaker reports Maestrazgo sonetwork, the Vietnamese performers over alleged rape in lar project set government’s Spain’s Mallorca to cover 137 hectares with line is merely indicative and solar panels. “People come can be overridden. here to see nature, not to According to Daniel Lopez - Why You Should Never Buy Pre Cut Fruit look out on a field of black from green group Ecologis- GREEN: Renewable energy is booming in Spain And Veg At Supermarkets In Spain panels,” he added. tas en Accion ‘these are frequently areas of are scared of change. In any “They’re the biggest barrier - Ryanair Strike: Low-Cost Airline Announces great beauty but case, you can’t save your vil- to the ecological transition in 12 New Strike Days For July the problem is the lage if you don’t first save the the country right now.” law doesn’t actual- world.” As for Alcarras, Donoso - UK Foreign Office Updates Travel Advice In ly guarantee their Just like the movie, Alcarras, points out that the actual Spain protection’. Catalan village of Alcarràs, the issue is proving divisive. “And most of the According to Oquendo, entire where the film is set, actu- Big Easyjet strikes set to go ahead in Spain renewable compa- communities in Teruel are at ally does have a solar farm nies are here to loggerheads, with vandalism installed on land previously make money,” he surfacing in April and many used as a deposit for waste added. from an industrial pig farm. threats being made. Get in touch today at sales@theolivepress.es or Forestalia, one of Causing much of the anger There was no orchard decall us at 00 34 951273575 for more info the biggest play- is the fact that land can be stroyed and the ‘landowner is ers in the Teruel expropriated if at least 80% very happy’. region, has a back- of local landowners are in ground in the meat favour of installing a project. industry and has “There are neighbours who been accused of have literally stopped speakspeculation and ing,” he said. being given a blank The majority of ALIENTE’s cheque by the gov- groups are demanding multiernment to set up ple small projects instead of where it wants. just a few macro ones, with “If you say you don’t priority for local consumption. EU FORMAL REGULATED DEBT SOLUTIONS want their project, “Unlike with coal, the locals their response is can all participate in this,” Ireland’s leading Personal Insolvency Practice “IRS Ireland” is now available to facilitate that it’s not the claimed Ederra from the Salpersonal insolvency applications in Ireland for people currently residing in Spain. public’s opinion vamos el Perdon platform. that counts. It’s the But Jose Donoso, head of the If you have legacy debts, unsustainable debts secured on property, or simply legality,” said Oqu- Spanish solar association unsustainable unsecured debts, did you know you may be eligible to make an application endo, who flags UNEF, dismissed this idea for a Personal Insolvency Arrangement in Ireland that can resolve debts incurred in any up a viral video in as ‘suicide’. He pointed out of the 27 EU member states? which a Forestalia that the ecological transition CONTROVERSIAL: Religious history is advisor was filmed is not just about ‘decorating If you are in debt and living in Spain, whether your debts are owed to Irish creditors, or creditors divisive telling a protester the countryside’. in an EU member state, contact us on +353 58 23511 or email admin@irs-ireland.com ‘if the villages op- “We need €25 billion in inSceptics argue this is ‘made-up science’. IRS Ireland facilitates Bankruptcy applications, and applications for Personal Insolvency pose us, Europe vestment to reach the 2030 They say it is not a case of carbon dating Arrangements (“PIA”) or Debt Settlement Arrangements (“DSA”) short of bankruptcy. Uniquely will tell you where National Integrated Energy affirming the scriptures, but the scriptures Ireland’s PIA mechanism allows for the restructuring of debt secured on a property asset without the you can put your and Climate Plan (PNIEC) taraffirming carbon dating. opinions’. get. Small companies simply requirement for the property to be sold or surrendered by you. Mitchell O’Brien, senior personal Issues involving politics and religion in this Forestalia has don’t have that kind of moninsolvency practitioner with IRS is Ireland’s most successful facilitator of PIA applications. part of the world tend to be explosive, so denied the blank ey,” he claimed. we’ll leave those arguments for others. A personal insolvency practitioner (“PIP”) is a regulated professional authorized by the Irish cheque claims in- Donoso adds that those who The point here is that olive seeds, because Government’s Insolvency Service of Ireland. Mitchell O’Brien was Ireland’s first licensed PIP. Formal sisting it is ‘impos- maintain we can respond to of the way they can be carbon-dated, are sible’ when there climate change with small Irish insolvency arrangements are recognized and enforceable in all EU Member States. front and centre in these historical arguis a public bidding companies alone are neo-nements. Face-to-face consultations can be arranged with Mitchell O’Brien in the Malaga region, process to win gationists. So, the next time you eat olives, please or using Zoom video conferencing. the project. “The “These people may not deny know that you could well be helping to tell people on these climate change but that future generations something about life in platforms play the makes them more dangerSpain, circa 2022. victim,” insisted a ous because they oppose any spokesman. “They policy to address it,” he said. Take a front row seat on the Costa de la Luz’s most beautiful square +34 956 45 53 02 www.garimbasur.com

Plaza de España, 32 – 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

2 3 4 5

www.irs-ireland.com

HAD visited the Costa de la Luz only once before, a decade ago with my young sons. At the time, I had only heard of Tarifa, famed for its knockabout winds and fortified historical centre, facing across the straits to Africa. The southernmost tip of Spain, it was the place to catch a ferry to visit Morocco or hang out with fit windsurfers, who practically lived on the beaches and then partied into the early hours of the morning. Back where I’m based in inland Granada, young people with vans invariably had a ‘Tarifa Pirates’ sticker on it. So, we were constantly reminded of the name. But what was further up the long N-340 from Tarifa westwards? Who cared? It was a big, empty space, as far as I knew, and that meant missing out on so much. For someone who loves photography, I should have known better… but now I’ve been switched on and have finally seen the light, if you’ll excuse two puns. My discovery came on a recent trip along this stunning windswept stretch of coastline that stretches all the way to Cadiz… and then all the way through Huelva to the Portuguese border. The area of most interest - is loosely between and Conil.

Cubic

This 40-something mile stretch of breathtaking coastline is full of unspoilt beaches, cubic white towns and too many places to stop and take a perfect holiday snap. Broadly speaking, you should spend at least two days in Vejer and Tarifa, with a day in each of Conil and Zahara and with a side trip to Barbate, which is incredibly one of Spain’s poorest towns (on paper). With a bit more time, make sure to see Bolonia and its famous sand dune (the biggest in the world) and an inland stop in Medina Sidonia, one of the true unspoilt, authentic gems of southern Spain. The start of the Costa de La Luz and its famous light begins at the Mirador del Estrecho, about quarter of an hour’s drive past Algeciras. It’s a must-stop, as this high point has some of the best views in the world, looking across to Africa, over the Continues on next page

GREEN

www.theolivepress.es

July 13th - July 26th 2022

DRYING UP

Seabin

THE Port of Malaga is taking action to keep its waters clean by installing a revolutionary new device, known as a Seabin, to collect rubbish from the sea. Located in IGY Malaga Marina, the ‘trash skimmer,’ that has already been installed in the water, acts like a floating garbage bin skimming the surface of the water. It’s expected to collect an average of 1 to 1.4 tonnes of waste per year. Seabins have previously been installed in Valencia, Mahon, Getxo, Gijon, Cartagena, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and A Coruña.

Spain and Portugal experiencing driest spells in over a millennium THE Iberian Peninsula is going through its driest period for 1,200 years, according to new research. The majority of rain in Portugal and Spain falls in the winter months, but a high-pressure weather phenomenon known as the Azores high can block wet weather fronts which provide much needed rain. Researchers from the Oceanographic Institution in the US said winters with ‘extremely large Azores highs’ have increased significantly. Prior to 1850,they only occurred once every 10 winters. Since 1980 however, this has risen to one in every four. When they occur, they force the wet weather northwards, making downpours in the UK and Scandinavia far more likely.

Climate

The scientists said this increase was undeniably the result of the climate crisis, caused by increased carbon emissions from human activity. Dr Caroline Ummenhofer who headed the research team, told the Guardian: “The number of extremely large Azores highs in the last 100 years is really unprecedented when you look at the previous 1,000 years. “That has big implications because an extremely large Azores high means relatively dry conditions for the Iberian peninsula and the Mediterranean. We could also conclusively link this increase to anthropogenic emissions.” Droughts and heatwaves are becoming more and more common on the peninsula and this May was the hottest on record in Spain.

By George Mathias

Environmentalists say heatwaves are becoming 10 times more likely than they were before the effects of climate change were established.

PARCHED: Water levels are low

Just consider the facts - climate policy has failed

NO SMOKE WITHOUT FIRE T HE central goal of climate policies is to reduce harmful emissions. Yet even with all of the international agreements of the last three decades - The UN Framework on Climate Change of 1992, the Kyoto Protocol of 1997, the Copenhagen accord of 2009, the Paris climate accord of 2015, 26 Conference of Parties, DECARBONISATION HAS REMAINED UNCHANGED. The world is witnessing an alarming outbreak of weather disasters: ● Giant wildfires ● Deadly heatwaves ● Powerful hurricanes ● Unprecedented flooding Despite the overwhelming current evidence, inaction abounds. There is no doubt that this is just the beginning of the grim toll that climate change will

PROTEST: to save the Amazon

Green

take in the years to come. Countries rely on others to act. This is the road to nowhere. All of the agreements that countries have entered into are not binding. They have no teeth. There are no penalties. There is a vast chasm between aspirations and effective policies.

BIDEN’S POWER TO CUT EMISSIONS LIMITED BY SUPREME COURT America is a huge polluter. What goes on in the US affects us all. 19 largely Republican states brought a case against the US Environment Protection Agency (EPA) and won. The Supreme Court, in a landmark ruling, destroyed President Biden’s (pictured below) aspirations to tackle the climate crisis. The 19 states are home to America’s largest coal companies. Their political and financial power is so strong that they derailed plans to do the right thing for the world. How sad. How corrupt. How damaging. The US accounts for 14% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions. Biden had committed to reducing this by 52% by 2030. Fat chance of this happening now! BAD NEWS EVERYWHERE In the UK last month, the Forestry Commission said the government has ‘zero chance’ of reaching its tree planting targets. At COP-26 last year 196 countries agreed to a deadline to submit detailed plans to reduce emissions. Only 11 countries complied. Talk

is cheap …action requires resolve. Countries agreed to reduce the use of coal yet 34 countries are now considering new coal plants. India has announced that it is increasing production of coal power and reopening 100 power plants. Countries promised to stop deforestation by 2030. But in Brazil (home to more than half of the Amazon rainforest) deforestation is up 70% on last year. Countries agreed a scheme to cut methane emissions by 30% by 2030. Last year, methane levels saw their biggest annual increase since records began. Countries agreed to reduce fossil fuel subsidies. In 2021 they increased. Wealthy nations agreed to provide $100 billion a year to help developing countries move away from fossil fuel dependency. It hasn’t happened. Here in Spain and Portugal we are suffering the driest climate in 1200 years. In Italy there is a declared state of emergency in five northern regions where they are said to be experiencing the worst drought in 70 years. The river Po valley which produces 40% of Italy’s rice and grain has not seen rain in four months. How many more alarm bells need to ring before governments actually do the right thing?

Martin Tye is the owner of energy switch company Mariposa Energy. +34 638145664 ( Spain Phone ) Email him at martin@mariposaenergia.es

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Pic credit: seabinproject.com

Take control of your financial security in retirement Recent months have reminded us how inflation can reduce our spending power. Over time, it may have a major impact when compounded year after year. This includes your pension funds – will they keep pace with the rising cost of living? There may be steps you can take to gain more control over income and growth potential – but only if this is suitable for you. Blevins Franks is authorised to provide regulated advice on UK pensions and the opportunities for expatriates. Take advice today to protect your long-term savings and income.

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Fairway L AW Y E R S

LETTERS

July 13th - July 26th 2022

Bull by the horns San Fermin polarises our readers and a distinguished midwife (right) makes the case for a change in terminology…

War of words

Dear Olive Press,

Carne-val

Covering the Costa del Sol and inland for 20 years

CONVEYANCING OFF PLAN PROBLEMS FLOOR CLAUSE ISSUES FRAUD AND TAX LITIGATION INHERITANCE Contact Diego at Fairway Lawyers diego@fairwaylawyers.com Tel: 952 77 11 50 WhatsApp: 606 307 885

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C/Nuestra Señora de Gracia 28, 1C 29602, Marbella (Malaga)

I noticed a vitriolic response online to the Olive Press’ articles on the San Fermin fiesta. With comments such as ‘good job bulls’ responding to three men being gored in the run. These are presumably the same people who chow down on jamon and paella in the evening which - spoiler alert - is made from animals killed for our food. Janet Rider, Murcia

Meat in the middle San Fermin is not for everybody. I appreciate that many have strong feelings about the treatment of animals during these eight days, but we must also be honest about how integral animals, and the killing of animals, is to the celebration of cultural events around the world, many of which date back hundreds if not thousands of years. Humanity is slowly but surely going down a path where animal suffering is lessened and blood sports are outlawed, but it cannot happen overnight and nor should it. The process should be evolution, not revolution on these important issues. Dee Maxwell, Gibraltar Editor's note: The debate of tradition vs progression is not one which will be solved by our paper. As we point out on page 3, the festival is about much more than the bull runs with a variety of cultural events fit for the whole family. Whatever your view, with over a million people attending this year, the tradition is not going away anytime soon.

Breedagh Hughes, name and address supplied

Editor’s note: We appreciate debate on abortion is a sens the itive subject and you make a good poin Such is the divisiveness on the t. bate, it is understandable deemotive terms such as ‘pro-lifethat ’ or ‘pro-choice’, which are highly load ed terms, have become commonplace. In the future we aim to stead use the terms ‘pro-abortioinor ‘anti-abortion rights’ instead n’ .

Please be humane With the recent deaths of 23 migrants crossing the Moroccan border to Mellila, the death of 50 migrants on the Mexico border to Texas and the continuing peril of those crossing the English channel, there surely has to be a better and more humane way of treating those seeking a better life while still retaining some degree of border controls. Where can I find out more about this? Alan Bretton, Casares

OP QUICK CROSSWORD 1

19 20

OP SUDOKU

From Marbella to Mollina and Mijas to Manilva

YOU recently published a report of an anti-abortion demonstration in Mad using the term ‘pro-life’. I find this rid, curate and professionally offensive. inacHaving qualified as a midwife in the 1980 I was the Northern Ireland Director s, the Royal College of Midwives for of years, which is the professional orga 30 nisation for midwives in the UK. Midwive by definition are ‘pro-life’, however s, does not mean that they cannot alsothis be ‘pro-choice’. Those who use the ‘pro-life’ may more accurately beterm scribed as ‘pro-birth’, ‘anti-abortion demany also support the death penalty,’ as as we have seen more recently in Maltor are heedless of the risk to a woman’s a, by forcing her to continue with a life pregnancy that may result in her deat h. I trust that future reports will no long er use the term ‘pro-life’.

Across 6 No question (2,6) 7 Young ---, eager for change (4) 8 Foggy (4) 9 Such lines never cross (8) 10 Retrieve (3,4) 13 Remote target? (2,3) 14 Walk noisily (5) 16 Middlingly (3,4) 20 Curt dismissal (5-3) 21 Sharp high-pitched resonant sound (4) 22 The beginning of cheese (4) 23 Broad-minded (8)

Down 1 In recent times (2,4) 2 Consecrated (4) 3 Henry Miller’s “--- of Cancer” (6) 4 Lehar’s widow (5) 5 Architectural feature usually found near ceilings (6) 7 Israel’s economic centre (3,4) 11 Perplexed (7) 12 Range of knowledge (3) 15 Twisting force (6) 17 Recorded (2,4) 18 Spats (3-3) 19 Northamptonshire, to Northumberland (5) 21 Tiny hole admitting passage of a fluid (4)

All solutions are on page 13

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www.theolivepress.es CAPTURED: The moon rising over Vajer

osta de la Luz July 2022

SEEING THE LIGHT

On a second visit to the Costa de la Luz, Jo Chipchase was finally switched on to its beautiful beaches and illuminated villages… oh, and tuna fish

Cubic

PIC CREDIT: Jon Clarke

Take a front row seat on the Costa de la Luz’s most beautiful square +34 956 45 53 02 www.garimbasur.com Plaza de España, 32 – 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

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July 2022

osta de la Luz From front page

straights. From here, it’s a short hop down into Tarifa old town, and parking near the port. Here you’ll find two types of queue; those heading on the hydrofoil to Morocco and many others, frequently queuing for a must-do trip to view the famous whales and dolphins of the Staits. From here, looking out along the spit to Tarifa island, you can clearly see where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic Ocean - and with the water taking on a beautiful two-tone, bluegreen hue. This joining of oceans causes a zone where both the Poniente and Levante winds take centre stage, causing gusts and attracting surfers and kitesurfers by their thousands from around the world. Tarifa old town is a must visit. Once inside its old walls, between the castle and the stunning Puerto de Jarez, it’s charm personified. You’ll love wandering its cobbled streets, enjoying its boutiques and general ambience, but

FUN FACT HISTORIC: Tarifa old town (above) and where the Atlantic meets the Med

Coast with the most

RECORD: Bolonia’s giant dune and its stunning Roman remains

restaurant-wise, you’re better looking out for something just outside the walls on Calle Santisima Trinidad. Heading west from Tarifa, I marvelled at the sheer number of diving, windsurf and kite schools, as well as quad hire companies that have set up. There are numerous dreamy hotels and hip restaurants, many sitting right on the wonderful Playa de Los Lances or its next door Valdevaqueros beach.

Tarifa is sometimes credited with being the origin of the word ‘tariff’, since it was the first port in history to charge merchants for the use of its docks.

Sand battle

I took a side turn onto the A235 towards Punta Paloma - a must see - and was amazed to find it almost completely blocked with sand.

It had blown down from the Valdevaqueros dunes in copious amounts, rippling across the road surface, and making it difficult to pass other cars without putting a wheel into a dune. I wished I had brought my 4x4 for some fun, sandy action. Soldier on for a couple of kilometres, and you’ll come to two restaurants on the headland – Justito de Copas and El Mirlo Tarifa. What a place this is to enjoy a sundowner, or - even better - head up the hill to the secret spot, Tesoro (go on, try to find it!). From here, you can continue on foot on the well-marked GR145 Arco Atlantico walking route. It takes you over to Bolonia and its Roman ruins – although I was advised

by a local that this could take ‘several hours’.

Roman ruins of Bolonia

Next up is the hamlet of Bolonia which has a museum devoted to its famous Roman ruins, which are considered among the best in Spain. These ruins originally formed the Roman town of Baelo Claudia, located directly beside the beach. There is so much to see including a bakery, a statue of Claudius and semi-intact columns. Bolonia’s beach is 3.8km long and features a massive sand dune. People climb this in their droves – most to take a selfie - but choosing a cool time of day is advised.

+34 670 441 266 info@casainjues.com www.casainjues.com Capitán Menéndez Arango, 4, 11380 Tarifa (Cádiz)

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FLAT IN TARIFA, PUERTO

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July 2022

An unforgetable experience

Tuna tales

PIC CREDIT: Vic Stamp

The next leg of the journey, past the hundreds of wind turbines of Fascinas valley, is a real eye opener for aesthetes. It gets even better when you turn left onto the A2227 to Zahara, driving past rolling fields of sunflowers, fighting bulls and grand country cortijos eventually emerging at the stunning village that has a slightly eccentric feel. You soon begin to realise that the relaxed and friendly vibes characteristic of the Costa de la Luz are best found in Zahara de los Atunes. This is a true gem of a town with a centre crammed full of whitewashed buildings and a diverse range of small shops and bars, many appropriately serving dishes based on tuna. Zahara is famed for its tuna, hence the name, and it is one of the true delicacies of Spain. It’s quite different from any other tuna (indeed fish) I

have ever eaten. Wandering towards the seafront, we found boutiques selling funky clothes, beach bars with colourful chairs, hotels of various sizes, and vendors selling Indian throws. Looking for a place to stay? Hotel Pozo del Duque has sat on this wonderful beach for decades and does some impressive deals.

No Barbs

The next stretch of coastline (the 11km stretch of the A2231) is one of the most beautiful drives in Spain. It cuts through rolling fields of cattle, stretching right down

to a lovely sandy beach. The light is stunning, but sadly there aren’t many places to park, as it’s mostly military land on both sides of the road. Eventually, you’ll come to the larger and less touristy town of Barbate, which - with 22,500 people - many of them brought here during the Franco dictatorship, has had to address some social problems over the years. But it is definitely one to visit. Lying on the River Barbate, and surrounded by Natural Park, Barbate has a long history of fishing that dates to Roman times. Of particular interest are the port, an art deco-type building that hosts a town hall fishing initiative, and nearby restaurants serving fresh fish. The famous Campero restaurant is also here. Barbate is extremely popular with Spanish tourists in the summer but attracts far few foreign visitors, which is a shame, as it’s worth exploring.

+34 956 41 08 36/ +34 690 00 68 13 info@ventaladuquesa.com www.ventaladuquesa.com Carretera Autovía A-396, Km 7, 11170 Medina Sidonia

The very definition of authenticity

Ctra. A-396 KM. 7,700 11150, La Barca de Vejer Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

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•

956 45 00 69 • 956 45 08 77

www.ventapinto.com PRETTY: An inlet at Barbate

July 2022

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osta de la Luz

Final frontier Between the sea and the sierra, the former Moorish outpost of Vejer de la Frontera lies waiting to be discovered

tel: 621 00 89 47 info@taperiasumia.es www.taperiasumia.es Calle de la Corredera, 49A, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz

HE name says it all. Vejer de la Frontera, a hilltop fortress on the Costa de la Luz, was once a last frontier of Christian Spain. The scene of invasions and bloodthirsty battles for hundreds of years, this much sought after strategic outpost changed hands numerous times, finally becoming part of King Ferdinand’s Spain in 1248.

Later, in 1805, the sound of heavy gunfire could be heard again, as Admiral Nelson destroyed the unified French and Spanish Armada at nearby Cape Trafalgar. The Civil War years were violent too, with calls for land reform from residents met by General Franco, sending 24 soldiers to occupy the town, killing anyone who stepped out of line. POPULAR POSING: By the arches of the Juderia

Nowadays, however, the only thing likely to knock you over are the stunning views from this delightful white village, exposed to the gusting Atlantic from its hilltop perch between the sea and the sierra. An unmissable component of any visit to the Costa de la Luz, the medieval quarter oozes history, its castle walls intertwined with whitewashed homes discovered along twisty-turny, cobbled streets. The Moorish castle – or Alcazaba – hides down a side-street lined with eucalyptus trees. The jasmine-scented courtyard houses the den of the local scout group, who will happily show tourists around the ramparts of what is otherwise mostly residential now. The streets all tend towards the town’s central square, the highly picturesque Plaza de los Pescaitos (also known as Plaza de España) with its exquisite, bright fountain decorated with 19th-century Triana tiles from Sevilla. The plaza (right) takes its name from the little goldfish – pescaitos – which used to swim in the fountain when it was built in the 1920s. The surrounding streets and alleyways are a hive of activity, belying their sleepy appearance. There are handicraft shops, art galleries and flamenco haunts, as well as cafes, bars and restaurants serving up the

July 2022

#saboresqueencajan

FORTIFIED: Old town gate and enjoying a concert at Califa hotel and a giggle after an evening stroll

PIC CREDITS: Jon Clarke

C/ Juan Relinque, 3, Vejer de la Frontera - CÁDIZ 640 626 908 hola@4estacionesvejer.com 4estacionesvejer.com

best produce from the tur- right in front of your nose. bulent Atlantic and encir- Above all, make sure to cling farmland head up to the and forests. turreted walls, In particu- This immaculate from where lar look out views spread village was for Pajarra, a out across culshop that for tivated fields voted second over a decade to the mounMost Beautiful tains and the has provided visitors to the 5,000 hectare in Spain Costa de la Luz Las Brenas with an amazNatural Park. ing range of stylish, origi- It’s easy to see why this imnal, hand-printed t-shirts… maculate village was voted

second Most Beautiful in Spain on Trip Advisor. There is certainly something special about Vejer, which appears to lord it over its neighbouring fishing villages from its exalted hilltop eyrie, its white cubist houses tumbling down the hillside like tossed dice. And it’s a safe bet, if you’re new to the Costa de la Luz, that you’ll be leaving nothing to chance if you take a trip to the former final frontier. PICTURESQUE: Plaza de España

Calle Juan Relinque 14 • Vejer de la Frontera From breakfast and lunch to dinner and afternoon tea ilovefez.com

July 2022

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osta de la Luz

BEACHSIDE: The Hurricane’s rooms and chill out spots are pole position

STEADY SHE H

PIC CREDIT: Jon Clarke

LEAF

POND LIFE: Kids look for the Terrapins at the Hurricane, while (top) its evocative restaurant setting

IDDEN amid a sea of lush greenery, the Hurricane hotel is somehow an oasis of calm. While the winds are whistling past just a lobster’s claw away, I’m lying on a day-bed sipping an Earl Grey out of a pointed Moroccan teapot. A choice of two pools beckons either side, one adults-only, while the dining tables are already laid out on the terrace for supper, the wine glasses glistening in the late afternoon sun. There’s an option for a massage and sauna, as well as a fully-functioning gym, where a group of women are limbering up for a yoga class. If I can be bothered to do some exercise, there is a wind and kitesurf centre ten paces below. Gran Cru Andaluz in its clearest form, this is half a life’s work of three English brothers, the Whaleys, who acquired this prime slice of Tarifa real estate back in 1985. All three with different skills and different social circles, they formed a vision to turn a scruffy beachside hostel into one of southern Spain’s most emblematic places to stay. “We each had our own strengths, but above all a love for the area,” explains Peter Whaley, 75, who divides his time between Ibiza and Tarifa, where he can still be seen out kitesurfing, surfing or increasingly windfoiling, almost every day. Peter - whose son Liam is a former world kitesurf champion and recently opened his own school nearby - had first landed in Tarifa in 1984 en route to Morocco, where his younger brother James owned an achingly hip hotel in Essaouira, Villa Maroc. A keen windsurfer, he was amazed to discover that the winds continued to blow for almost 80% of the year and saw an opening to set up a rental firm for tourists. Alongside Australian boardmaker Barry Pussell they opened a shack called 100% Fun that sold custom-built windsurfs, plus his Dutch wife Therese’s clothes, from fashion label Graffiti Ibiza. With careful marketing and planning

The Hurricane Hotel and its sister Punta Sur are still going strong after 35 years, writes Jon Clarke

they had soon ushered in the cele- Sur, which at the time I was far from brated Tarifa wind revolution, an in- thrilled about. dustry now worth tens of millions of However, my expectations of it being euros every year. the poor cousin of the Hurricane, Back then, though, there was no- turned out to be completely wrong. where decent to stay so they bought If anything this leafy hideout on a small ruined 12-room hostel across the other side of the road is more the road and started to renovate it. relaxing and certainly has nicer, This was where his brother Michael, more spacious, rooms than the 71, a talented builder and landscap- Hurricane. er came in for his construction skills, Better than that, while also surroundas well as third brother James, who ed by lush grounds, it is far better for died in 2019. families with easily the nicest swimThe manager of 80s band Adam & ming pool on the Costa de la Luz, a the Ants and the producer of semi- giant circular number, sitting in its nal films, Sebastiane and Jubilee, he own meadow, with plenty of shade was a genuine style guru, with an un- and hidden from the wind. canny knack for the latest fashions. Best of all, the hotel counts on a tenUnder his watchful eye the place nis court and a pool table, while the slowly turned into one shady El Jardin restauof Andalucia’s hippest rant has become a places to stay. reference for thoseEasily the While the gardens in-the-know along the nicest and vegetation have coast. matured each year, swimming pool This secret leafy enand are full of ponds clave is the perfect and hidden corners . on the Costa de place to kick back for During the pandemic lunch - or chill out for la Luz the team, including Mithe day - when the chael’s son George, a wind is blowing a hooDJ, have worked hard to improve the lie from the east. chill out areas and drive the quality There’s plenty of shade and the of the food upwards. sound of water percolates from all The signing of a talented new hotel around, while a harem of peacocks manager Greetja and a Catalan ex- strut around at random. ecutive chef Javier Ferrer, who has The new menu created by Javier, worked around South America, has alongside head chef Alba, is local really improved the menus and qual- and seasonal with plenty of special ity of food. touches. Yet my love affair with the Hurricane The local tomatoes, with fresh basil didn’t start on my first visit here al- and mozzarella are excellent, while most 20 years ago, when despite the tuna tartare is as good as any I making a reservation to join some have eaten in Tarifa. friends one weekend, we arrived to Meanwhile the steaks and burgers find we had been bumped off the list are definitely to be recommended, in for no apparent reason. particular on a cool evening. While there was no attempt at an apology, we were at least offered a Visit www.hotelhurricane.com or room ‘over the road’ at the Punta www.hotelpuntasur.com

July 2022

Flying high TALENT: And not just Liam (left)

BLOWS

FY: The gardens and restaurant at Punta Sur are hard to beat

T was perhaps only a matter of time that Liam Whaley would open his own kite school. Having traversed the world competing on the international circuit and a former global champion, he has finally taken over the centre at Valdevaqueros beach, by Tumbao. Sponsored by Porsche and after a big investment, the school is one of the best to offer the latest in kite technology, as well as windsurfs and windfoils. His team of talented instructors offer classes by the week, day or hour and a handful of half day sessions is enough to give you a good basis of all three watersports. While Liam is not always about, talented Mateo has been working on the coast for nearly a decade and has great knowledge and advice.

www.liamwhaleyprocenter.com

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July 2022

Italian style Italian style

t: 604 38 02 40

osta de la Luz

Whale of a time

Italian style

Flying fish, dolphins and giant turtles pay a visit on a trip into the Straits, writes Jon Clarke

W Plaza del Capitán Menéndez Arango, 3A 11380 Tarifa Cadiz

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E are about equidistance between Spain and Morocco in the deepest part of the Straits of Gibraltar. Flying fish, turtles and two types of whale are basking around, feeding and luxuriating in this food-rich marine paradise, some 15 minutes offshore from Tarifa. And that’s not to mention the dolphins, including a pair of Bottlenose, who are shepherding their calf, that is ap-

parently no more than a week old. Soon we have found a school of dolphins swimming around the boat and, being so calm, we can see them clearly under the water. It’s an almost religious experience for the boat-load of tourists, as the stunning mammals clearly swim over to take a closer look at us. “These two are particularly inquisitive,” pipes up a voice from the cockpit above, as one particular pair come

sniffing up to the boat, then swim underneath at an amazing speed. The words come from Dr Katharina Heyer, a remarkable woman of 75 years of age, who has become, without a doubt, one of the world’s authorities on sea life off the tip of southern Spain. It’s her 20th year working with her foundation Firmm, which was set up after she was guided to Tarifa to see whales and dolphins by a ‘spiritual man’ in 1998.

Then running her own fashion company in Switzerland, she visited the area to find nobody organising trips to see the mammals and almost no research on them. “I arrived on a really rainy, awful day to find no whale boats, just fishermen, and had to rent a diving boat to take me out,” she explains. It may not have been perfect weather conditions, but what she saw completely changed her for good.

July 2022

PIC CREDIT: Firmm

PIC CREDIT: Turmares Tarifa

BIGGEST DUNE IN EUROPE

Bolonia’s iconic, giant sand dune is the texture of icing sugar, its waters Caribbean blue. The largest on the Continent it dares to be climbed, just to see what lies beyond. While there is no secret cove or crock of gold at the end it is a lovely slow transition into a cool, scented pine forest. And the stunning views from the top are a reminder of how all coastal Andalucia once was. Nearby look for Cala del Picacho, for some therapeutic mud-baking. The mud treatments are popular and you smash up some wet slate stone to create your own mudpack, before letting it dry off.

While she had long enjoyed diving holidays with her teenage sons in the Caribbean and the Maldives, seeing a group of Pilot whales and Bottlenose dolphins had a strong and immediate impact on her. So moved was she by these large and graceful mammals that she quickly moved out to set up her ‘respectful whale watching’ foundation in Tarifa and has never looked back. Indeed, so respected has been her research into the mammals over the last two decades - in particular her sensitization work for them - that last year she was awarded an honorary doctorate from the University of Basel. There are now a handful of companies taking visitors out to see the mammals from Tarifa, and on most days they can expect to see Sperm whales, Pilot whales and even Orcas, not to mention various types of dolphins and many other fish. It is one of the best places in the world to see them, with the currents bringing a lot of food from both directions, explains Katharina. However, this brings in itself severe risks, as they are entering one of the busiest waterways in the world with more than 300 freighters and other sea traffic passing every day. Indeed, as you look out into the Straits you are witnessing a battle for survival. “The lives of dolphins and whales are at risk from ferries getting faster and faster, the noise from shipping traffic and more,” she explains. “We are trying our best to monitor their numbers and do our best to minimise the issues they face.”

DIVE SCHOOL

July 2022

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PIC CREDIT: Leon Marino

UNDERWATER WORLD Discover the teeming aquatic wildlife of Tarifa with Jon Clarke

• Yellow Sub Tarifa • Puerto de Tarifa, Dock 2, 11380 Tarifa Tel/Fax: +34 956 680 680 Movil: +34 655 813 064 / 655 813 046 www.divingtarifa.com • info@yellowsubtarifa.com

DIVING CENTER

NDER the sun-kissed sea there lies an alien world, teeming with colourful life that makes the coast’s crowded beaches and bars seem a million miles away. Scuba diving, a thrilling yet serene sport, abounds all around the Straits, and in particular near Tarifa. Whether you are an experienced diver or a novice, you will be struck by two underwater wow factors: the clarity of the water and the infinite variety of fish. A number of companies operate out of Tarifa harbour taking punters of all experience levels on dives and offer official PADI courses. After a thorough land-based briefing on safety, science and equipment from my dive manager, at Yellow Sub, one of the longest running firms in business, we kitted up and made our way to the boat. Given that my previous introduction to scuba diving was a university swimming pool, I was blown away by the vivid underwater landscape and clear visibility. The sheer number of aquatic species of all sizes and colours of the spectrum is astounding. We chugged around Tarifa’s mini island, Isla de la Palomas, investigating every nook and cranny, marvelling at the magnificent orange anemones clinging to the rocks. Sassy sea cucumbers, evil-looking moray eels with

their malevolent mouths agape, fish that camouflage themselves in the sand… even Sir David Attenborough would wax lyrical! At one point we came upon a pair of octopuses entwined in a passionate embrace, and, feeling like a third wheel, I edged away, but soon realised they were fighting over the best hiding place under the rocks. It was fascinating to watch and, as the victor took up residence, the loser powered off to regroup. Whether you’re a rookie or an expert seeking fresh challeng-

es, Yellow Sub, or other companies such as León Marino will show you a breathtaking underwater world you’d never imagine existed. Visit www.divingtarifa.com, www.leonmarino.surf or www.bucearentarifa.com

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en Tarifa Empieza hoy! 609 71 81 15

Padi Courses & Diving Courses CAPTIVATING: Crab and Eel are among the treasures of the deep

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July 2022

Jon Clarke takes a dip into Vejer’s rich history with its brand new hammam

Heavenly

URING the days of Al-Andalus a Moorish traveller would arrive by horseback in Vejer or Tarifa, say, in search of one key place. Worn out and filthy he would head to the hammam to relax and get cleaned up before getting on with his day at hand. All Arabic settlements had one and the ritual of cleanliness meant being closer to holiness and all men and women in Arabic Spain used them. Now, after over a decade of planning, Vejer de la Frontera has its very own hammam again. Installed in a strategic spot in the casco historico between the ancient Moorish Alcazaba castle and the former Mesquita (now the Church of Divino Salvador), it is the ultimate experience not to be missed. Comprising the traditional three pools, a Tepidarium of warm water, a Caldarium of boiling water and a Frigidarium of freezing water, it is the perfect way to

TREATMENTS: Various options are available, but the water circuit is intriguing experience this centuries-old routine. ple to understand and appreciate our Add in a steam and sauna room, a rich Andalucian history.” massage room and a chill out corner The cavernous space comes as a real to take mint tea and you could be in surprise after entering via a simple central Fez. front door off the back street, Calle Cleverly installed in an old merchant’s Eduardo Shelly. house, it was the brainwave of Ve- You are handed some typical Morocjer businessman can slippers, ushered through heavy James Stuart, who velvet curtains and the dark interior came up with the slowly comes into view as your eyes idea with his busi- get accustomed to the light after ness partner Regli, around two or three minutes. while on a trip to Beautifully designed and imagined by Morocco in 2010. James’ wife Ellie Cormie, the rich red “We wanted to do ochre walls gradually segway into lightsomething really er blues for the colder water areas. special, some- Dozens of candles light each space, thing completely while the classical domed ceiling lets different for Vejer,” in limited light through a grid of small James told the star openings. Olive Press. “And The circuit, which you are meant to unthe hammam is dertake three or four times, is excelnot just great on a lent for health and at the end you take touristic level, but your pot of fresh mint tea. also on a cultural level, helping peo- www.hammamvejer.com CHILLOUT: Traditional mint tea is a must

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DANCING TO A Gin Tunics, tuna lollipops and tuna yachts... despite Belinda Beckett not eating fish, Zahara’s legendary Ruta de Atún festival had her hooked!

“ Dine on superb cuisine in our beautiful garden

tel: 956 43 72 20

zahoralatraina@gmail.com Open: 12.00 – 17.00 & 20.00 – 00.00 Zahora – Carril de la Yeguada S/N 11159 La Zahora

JUST try it,” said Dave. “It doesn’t taste that fishy.” The last person to try that was my mother, when as a babe in a high chair I refused to eat my fish fingers, dashing each spoonful to the floor. To my dysfunctional palate, all fish smells of ammonia and tastes worse. But, despite being a pescaphobe I found myself at the annual Tuna Festival in Zahara de los Atunes and agreed to try some, all in the line of duty, of course. The dish set before me didn’t look like fish: orange and round with a tiny leaf, it could have fallen from a neighbouring tree. That was the whole idea! Paripé de Mandarina (Mandarin Deception), was created for this year’s tapas competition – one of 36 imaginatively-prepared dishes, each representing the chef of a different restaurant. Huge thought goes into the presentation to give a humorous twist, or to perhaps outwit my own picky taste buds. I was determined to find out… There was so much choice! Tuna burgers, tuna lollipops, bars of tuna wrapped in gold leaf, tuna with ice cream, tuna shaped like yachts... even fashioned into min-

iature pizzas with their own printed boxes. There was even liquid tuna, wittily named ‘Gin Tunic’. Every tapa came with a glass of chilled manzanilla and, at €3.50 a throw, it was a no-brainer for fish aficionados. “All the same Dave, I think I’ll wait to try the tuna toffees,” I reasoned, discovering that the Mandarin Deception contained raw tuna tartare! Which was a bit of a nuisance for Dave as the tuna toffees were being served down the road in Atlanterra (Zahara’s posh sister resort) and we’d been lucky to find a parking spot in town. Fish lovers travel from far and wide to the Costa de la Luz in Springtime to taste the first succulent almadraba tuna - caught by an ancient method dating back to Phoenecian times, just as these Leviathans leave the cold Atlantic for their warmer Mediterranean spawning grounds. During festival week there are as many fish fanciers on land as there are tuna in the sea, when the population of this pretty maritime pueblo of 1,300 residents

fills up with another 15,000 hungry souls. In total, they munched their way through 65,000 tapas made from 200 tuna weighing some 200 kilos apiece, netting restaurateurs an impressive €400,000 over one weekend– not bad in an economic crisis! And tuna isn’t the only temptation. There are some enticing prizes for eating it too, which only steeled my resolve. Eat 12 tapas for the chance to win a smart LGD TV, a Samsung tablet or a Nintendo Wii. Eat all 36 and a weekend for two at the posh Hotel Atlanterra could be yours. It was all so well organised (something of a surprise, in Spain). Everyone gets a menu map detail-

A destination of infinite possibilities

Considered by many as one of the best hotels on the Cadiz coast of Zahara de los Atunes. An excellent choice for the summer season. t: 956 439 097 info@pozodelduque.com www.pozodelduque.com Paseo del Pradillo, 32, Zahara (Cádiz) - Spain

July 2022

DIFFERENT TUNA

ing the location of each restau- madraba – the large structure fighting’ and the name’s well-jusrant and its speciality tapa, divid- you can glimpse one kilometre tified. ed into six colour-coded zones, out to sea. It’s a complex laby- Zahara boasts one of the ‘big plus a sheet of paper drawn up rinth of nets several kilometres four’ Atlantic almadrabas in with boxes that you have to get long and more than 30 meters Spain, along with those of Taristamped as you eat. deep, designed to guide the tuna fa, Conil and Barbate which also The man responsible for this shin- into a central trap (el copo) from hold their own rutas de atún ing example of entrepreneurial- which there’s no escape. during May and June. In 2010, ism is local restaurateur Gaspar Ecologically sound, immature Barbate welcomed 50 celebrity Castro, President tuna can wriggle chefs to its festival including Ferof local traders asout through the rán Adriá, Juan María Arzak and sociation ACOZA. mesh and live to Dani García. The record for “For most towns spawn another Quotas are strictly controlled a bluefin sold May is the month day. The thrilling to preserve declining stocks of for communions part is the Le- this endangered fish and today, at auction in and weddings but vantá. Several will Japanese ships queue up in the we don’t cater for be held between bay to buy tuna directly from Tokyo is 2.7 those events in a April and June, de- the almadrabas. Atún rojo is a million euros big way as we’re pendent on wind, highly prized ingredient of sushi only a small fishtides and sea con- and sashimi and sells in Japan ing village,” he ditions and decid- for four or five times its price in says. “At the same time, it’s one ed by the almadraba’s ‘captain’. Spain. The current record for a of the best months to eat fresh Then, the fishermen encircle this 278 kilo bluefin sold at auction in red tuna, caught in our unique seething cauldron of captive tuna Tokyo is a cool €2.7 million! way. We’ve been making a party in their boats and hoist the nets If you can time it right, you can of it since 2009 and it’s really out of the water. They will have no book a boat trip to see the lepaying off.” more than six hours to raise thou- vantá from a distance but there’s If high drama is you’re bag, sands of kilos of frenzied fish. little chance of taking part, unthere’s plenty of it with music, ‘Almadraba’ is Arabic for ‘place of less you’re well-connected or dancing, street parades and a prepared to bribe your way onto demonstration of tuna filleting that’s pure theatre, complete with buckets of blood! It’s called a ‘ronqueo’ after the ‘grunting’ noise the knife makes when separating flesh from bone. It takes experts with cleavers and 1. The Almadraba method is one sharp knives under tenminutes to recorded and takes advantage of of the oldest ever reduce one silvery 200-kilo tuna the migration of Atlantic Blue Fin Tuna between the to 17 choice cuts the colour and Mediterranean and the Atlantic. texture of prime beef (which is why bluefin tuna is confusingly 2.The size and flexibility of the nets called atún rojo in Spain) “Hardly means there is no damage to ceta , or almadrabas, ceans or the many any goes to waste which is why dolphins that populate the straits. we call the tuna ‘el cerdo del 3.A high percentage of the caug ht tuna are adult spemar’,” Gaspar told me. cimens that have already spaw ned on several occa(That explains the float I saw go sions. by, bearing a bunch of cheering 4. The almadrabas are only insta lled children dressed as Peppa Pigs.) ning the system does not alter the seasonally, meatunas’ natural rouA 200-kilo almadraba tuna will tes or their life cycle. fetch €3,800 on the open market 5. With the almadrabas installed in Spain and the ventresca (stomclose to the shore and always in the same place, it ach, best for tuna steaks) sells for is easy for authorities to ensu re com plia nce with environmental protectio €40 per kilo but some cuts are ns. 6. The fish are loaded onto boats particular delicacies: the morillo using ropes and cranes, instead of hooks, avoiding unneces (a kind of muscle in the head) sary suffering. 7. Almadraba is not a ‘mass prod costs circa €55 per kilo and the uction’ system, being less than 2% of world productio female eggs, €80 per kilo. n 8. The system consumes little ene Huevos de leche are also relrgy as the fisherman ished, though aren’t for the rely on the weather, skilled han ds and good luck faint-hearted (being tuna sperm) 9. The tuna remain in the structur e of the almadraba but Gaspar swears they’re ‘very for a limited time to protect aga inst over exploitation tasty’. Although, as his restauwhich has endangered the surv ival rant was responsible for the Man10. Only the best specimens are of tuna stocks. han darin Deception, I’m not so sure I caught while the rest are released d selected to be believe him! that the tuna shoals can regenera back to the sea so te. The most fascinating aspect of the local tuna industry is the al-

10 facts that make ‘almadraba’ the most sustainable fishing method in the world

DID YOU KNOW?

ANCIENT METHOD: Bu system of nets has bee t the Almadraba n effective since Phoenician times a boat (a figure of €200 a head has been mentioned). Gaspar is disapproving . “It’s illegal and dangerous – one tourist lost three fingers.” I was content to enjoy the festival atmosphere and coo over the

cutest foals on the short coastal drive to Atlanterra where I finally got to try the tuna toffees! They looked the part and Dave enjoyed them - two little sweetshaped cubes wrapped in shiny

paper, presented in a pretty tin. But I was caught out by yet another deception. It was all just window dressing containing no toffee at all – only fish!

July 2022

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TRIP BACK IN TIME Jon Clarke marvels at the ancient white town of Medina Sidonia and its ancient Roman road

TANDING sentinel like a Roman centurion, it rears up out of the Cadiz outback high on a hill. This is Medina Sidonia, the prettiest town in Andalucia you have probably never heard of. Authenticity at its best, the classic white town is little visited being off-the-beaten track and overshadowed by its nearby neighbours of Vejer and Jerez. And Moors the pity, as it’s not just its Arabic history that’s worthy of note: Medina Sidonia is awash with history going back way beyond the Romans into Phoenician times.

OLD HAND: Kirsty Biston has lived in Medina Sidonia since 2003

As well as a hilltop fortress, a beautiful church and views to die for, the town is full of historic buildings with old wooden doorways and classic metal rejas (or window bars). The fortified town was once one of Spain's most important ducal seats after it was dragged off the Moors in 1264. The title Duque de Medina Sidonia was handed to the family of Guzman el Bueno, the knight who bravely battled to seize it, as well as Tarifa, where you will find his statue. There is a very distinct aristocratic air about Medina, whose cobbled streets are ordered and clean, and there is a real sense of grandeur about its buildings. Take the charming Plaza de Espana; it is one of the loveliest plazas in Spain with fine 17th and 18th century townhouses lining it. The Renaissance fronted facade of the town hall is worthy of note, while there are some good spots to stop for refreshment. From here, head up to Plaza Iglesia Mayor and one of Andalucia's true religious gems, Santa Maria la Coronada. It is a fine example of 15th century Gothic architecture built on top of a mosque. Back downhill, don't miss the lovely Moorish archway, the Arco de la Pastora, which was built in the 10th century, although its marble pillars are possibly Phoenician.

MOORISH: Arco de la Pastora

Secret discovery The best discovery, though, is through a nondescript doorway off a side street leading down a narrow flight of stairs. Only discovered in 1997 when a local man decided to build an underground garage, is a perfectly intact section of Roman road still featuring its guttering, sewers, pavement and giant stone flagstones. It is in peak condition and a true journey back in time, showing clearly what an incredible race the Romans were. Look out for the remains of a children's game etched into one of the giant paving slabs. Nearby, an interesting museum takes visitors around part of the advanced sewerage network that the ancient civilisation installed in the town. It is particularly poignant that over 2000 years ago the Romans understood the importance of sewage and municipal planning, when today a large percentage of Andalucia's towns still dump raw sewage into rivers.

The extraordinary system of two-metre high barrel-vaulted tunnels, found in 1963, are solid and extensive and are said to run throughout the entire town. Children will love running up and down the tunnels, and the adjacent museum features a series of games and exhibits for them too. Local English businesswoman Kirsty Biston, who moved to the town in 2003 to open a hotel and restaurant, La Vista de Medina, believes Medina Sidonia is one of the least exploited towns for tourism in Spain. “Tourism in Medina is very different from the coast. It really is a place to slow down, relax and turn your back on the stresses of daily life. It is far from the bright lights and the sophistication of other well known places like Vejer,” adds the mother-of-three, whose restaurant has one of the best views in Spain. “I have always imagined Medina and Vejer to be like sisters, sharing the same history but very different people. Medina is the quieter, humbler, more reserved sister and you have to take the time to get to know her but

Your Perfect Escape

APARTMENTS • RESTAURANT • BAR tel: (+34) 956 41 00 69 WhatsApp: 690 62 63 60 www.lavistademedina.com Plaza de la Iglesia Mayor, 2, 11170 Medina Sidonia, Cadiz

when you do you’ll be amazed at how special and charming she is.” Visit Kirsty’s collection of seven studios and apartments with two pools at www.lavistademedina.com

July 2022

WHERE TO EAT

Ancient and modern

T was in 1910 that the loin in lard roll first graced the tables at roadside Venta Pinto (www.ventapinto.com). Served warm, normally with a snif ter of sherry, it literally oozed w i t h the feelg o o d fac-

The Costa de la Luz has the perfect mix of traditional dishes with modern twists, writes Jon Clarke tor, if not exactly a road to good health. As delicious today as it was then, thankfully, the menu at this family-owned restaurant, on the main road from Vejer to Barbate, is as light or rich as you want it to be, with plenty of salads and gallons of seafood to boot. As is the norm for restaurants on this wonderful stretch of Cadiz coastline, you must try the tuna. The morillo cut is one of the best, but if it’s on offer definitely go for the creative tuna ‘tostada’ served on wafer-thin toast, spread with mayo, wasabi, black salt and onion. A surefire

DELICIOUS: Creative tuna tapa at Venta Pinto

winner. Always a hive of activity, Venta Pinto may not look like much from the outside, but definitely stop for a coffee, if nothing more to admire the centuries-old tavern still run by the Pinto family, under the watchful eye of Cristina, a livewire, who buzzes from the bar to the restaurant and the terrace to the shop, usually with a big smile. For something completely different, look out for Patria (www. restaurantepatria.com), on the other side of Vejer in the hamlet of La Muela. This amazing place manages to tick just about every box in my book, combining theatre with romance and creativity with quality, not to mention exceptional prices. Run by Danish couple Ase and Thomas, the candle-lit flagstone terrace has the feel of the Pyrenees or the south of France with its vine-clad veranda framing its views towards the coastline below. Inside, it’s all cool

jazz and colours and the joy of gourmet food, provided by the fiery Viking Thomas, who drives his team forward in their bijoux kitchen. A purveyor of local ingredients, his baby fennels from nearby Conil, poached in an escabeche with goats cheese cream, were delicious. As was his pan brioche with beef solomillo marinated overnight, with gherkins, chives and dill and served on a baby lettuce. A carpaccio of local Barbate prawns were carefully sliced and served with salicornia and a kimchi sauce, with some cherry tomatoes. The tuna belly, salted for two days and then smoked for three hours, is one of the best tuna dishes around. And that is saying something. From here, you need to head up into Vejer itself, where you are really spoilt for choice of good places to eat. The real highlights include 4 Estaciones (www.4estacionesvejer.com) , where owner Alberto is constantly refining and changing his menu, as others ‘keep copying it’, he tells me. This year, he has had some luck by employing the highly

talented Emilio Fernandez, who trained for two years at the top-rated two Michelin star Valencia restaurant Bon Amb. Sitting in the heart of the old town, the menu is original and different, and both appealing as it is advenALL SMILES: Team at Patria, charming Califa turous. I particularly and creative 4 Estaciones like the range of ‘fresh summer dishes’, which have a focus on helping to handle hot days. One place you will most certainly need to book is Jardin de Califa (www.califavejer.com), which has become a genuine foodie pilgrimage over the last decade. The highlight of any culinary journey to the Costa de la Luz, its history goes back to the late 1990s when Scottish expat James Stuart decided to open a hotel and eventually rival to the hip restaurant Trafalgar just Continues on next page

July 2022

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WHERE TO EAT

osta de la Luz

COAST WITH THE MOST From page 15

across the main square Reached through the labyrinthine corridors of his 16th century Califa hotel, its romantic palm courtyard is enclosed by ancient walls and is lit with Moroccan lamps after dark. If you aren’t hypnotised by the scent of frangipani, jasmine and incense, the heavenly menu is crammed full of flavours from the Middle East and north Africa. Created by a multicultural kitchen, the freshest dishes imaginable include pastela filled with chicken, almonds and cinnamon, baba ganoush and shish

VARIETY: (From left) James Stuart at Fez, Soumia at Sumia,while Traina and its tartaki taouk. Service is always second to none, and the ambience is very much part of the set up. If you can’t get a table here, try the excellent Garimba (www.garimbasur. com) across the square. One of the most charming places to eat in southern Spain (pictured left), Plaza de Espana is always a hive of activity, so you might expect the food to be a little flat. Not at all, the excellent range of dishes including prawn pil pil and partridge salad, are fresh and excellent plates to share. Run by father and daughter team of Javier and Claudia, both from Madrid, the place is organised, friendly and usually busy. Califa Tapas, just up the road on Calle Corredera, is another good spot to eat with some of the best views in Cadiz. The menu is also good with a special mix of dishes. Next door, you must also definitely try Corredera 55, which is the highly-rated and constantly evolving restaurant of Stuart’s wife Ellie Cormie. Having run a series of restaurants in Asturias and Scotland - some with Michelin stars - she has created a true gem with this joint, that also counts on lovely views. Another brilliant choice is Taperia Sumia, which also has a great outdoor terrace on Calle Corredera. Moroccan Anne Soumia has done an excellent job bringing this

place back to life serving up an excellent north African inspired menu, including delicious cuttlefish croquettes and excellent lemon chicken, with potatoes and an olive tagine. The inside cave dining room is a wonderful choice for hot or rainy days. Staying with a Moroccan flavour, you might want to check out Fez, the latest restaurant opened by the Califa group, also up in the heart of the old town. A simple joint with an easy philosophy, it combines a clear love of the country for Morocco’s finest ingrediants with a true sense of style. Meat lovers must certainly look out for the genuine dining secret, Castilleria (www.restaurantecastilleria.com), in the idyllic hamlet of Santa Lucia. This wonderful restaurant sits in a leafy garden offering up the best steaks available in Spain. Broken down into the different types of meat, there are literally dozens of cuts from 8 months to 11 years old. Heading towards the coast near Canos de Meca you will definitely want to make a beeline for La Traina. This recently-opened place is one of the coolest on the coast, set up by a DJ and his brother, who have a deep knowledge and passion for the local seafood, hence naming the restaurant after a type of trawler. Set in the most charming of shady gardens it is a breath of fresh air at lunch and charming at night with candles. It is one of the best places to eat tuna on the coast, in particular as it is from the best local company, but the prices have stayed down, compared to its nearby rivals, such as Campero. I loved the sashimi of ventresca, but in particular the fantastic tartaki, which came with 12 generous slices of delicious tuna belly, served with various garnishes and edible flowers and fruits. A tarantelo is one of the more unusual cuts of tuna and when served with cep mushrooms, braised in sweet Pedro Ximenez wine, it stood alone. One of the best places to eat the famous bluefin tuna is in Zahara, where the resort created a tuna tapa competition 12 years ago that gets stronger and stronger by the year. The brainchild of Eduardo at Hotel Pozo del Duque, up to 50 restaurants compete to create the most exciting tuna dish during the week-long

Serving real market-fresh local food, changing weekly tel: 856 66 81 20 merkado27tarifa@gmail.com Santísima Trinidad, 27, 11380, Tarifa

TUNA DREAM: At Antonio, while (right) Merkado 27 and beef dish

festival in May. There are some great places to eat tuna in the town, including at the Pozo hotel, but to really see it at its very best, make sure to visit Hotel Antonio (www. restauranteantoniozahara.com) which has been improving its offering over the last half century. Now an absolute must for foodies, it has both stylish swagger and professional staff to match. Another great place to try it is at nearby rival El Campero (www.restauranteelcampero.es), both in Zahara and in Barbate, run by the stalwart chef Jose ‘Pepe’ Melero, who directs his team with Zen-like calm. An unbelievable success story, he can easily serve up to 500 diners per session and has tuna dishes in around 30 different guises, including tuna lasagna and Facera, Galera and Parpatana.

Tasty Tarifa

The most up-and-coming place to eat on the Costa de la Luz though is Tarifa, which is finally developing a competitive food scene. Edging ever closer to Vejer, there has been a real improvement in quality over the last few years There are some excellent new places here, in particular, Merkado 27, which has just opened up on the main drag Calle Santisima Trinidad in the heart of town. A lovely looking menu had a nice mix of starters, salads and mains and I particularly liked the croquettes of ‘cecina’ with pesto, while the tosta of roast beef was delicious served with rocket on top. Next door, you must definitely try Lima, which has a wonderful leafy terrace and Continues on next page

July 2022

Front row seats to the greatest show on Earth T

HERE are plenty of instagrammable shots around Tarifa, but few beat Tumbao. Sitting on Playa Valdevaqueros, one of Spain’s most famous beaches, this is the place to kick back and relax and take in the world. Grab a bean bag, order up a cocktail and forget about reading matter… you won’t need it, there is just too much to take in. This is theatre at its very best, watching the huge cast of characters gliding by, not just on the beach, but in the background buzzing around with kites over the sea. A slice of Ibiza cool, a dash of London savvy, few places offer up such a colourful mix of models and musicians, trustafarians and poseurs, alongside some of the world’s best kitesurfers and windsurfers. This is a place for an introduction to the unique Tarifa vibe. It’s literally mesmerising with its picturesque backdrop - mountains behind you, the ocean and Morocco in front and the massive Punta

Paloma sand dune in the distance to the right. The white sandy beach, frequently voted among Spain’s best, is the place to find everything from trinket salesmen to a rail of bikinis, while the sea is a wonderful clear blue and perfect for a dip. In the protected leafy compound of Tumbao, you can grab a healthy buffet lunch, or a delicious burger, and also shop in the hip clothes shop next door. If you feel active you can rent a windsurf or book a kitesurf lesson, while the vast majority of punters simply grab a beer and sit back and relax.

TUMBAO: A slice of Ibiza cool, a dash of London savvy

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July 2022

ll about

WHERE TO EAT

osta de la Luz WHERE TO STAY

The choice of hotels on the Costa de la Luz is huge

From page 16

TREASURES OF TARIFA describes its food as ‘multicultural comida’, that’s to say a mix of everything good. “We’ve got dishes from all around Europe and South America,” explains Xavi, a former snowboard champion, who’s been cooking in Tarifa for years. Looking for a good Italian? Trattoria (www.latrattoriatarifa.com) on the same street, Calle Santisima Trinidad, gets better by the year. Run by sharp-eyed Napolitano Luciano Fabricio, a genuine foodie, who has a number of restaurants, his Pizzeria has recently won the Verace Pizza Napoletana quality mark - the only one in Ca-

diz province. Using only soft homemade dough with slow fermentation, there are dozens of different types of pastas, but the pizzas are second to none. A long time fan of Italy’s Slow Food Movement, he has also made leaps and bounds with another restaurant, Pacha Mama (www.pachamamatarifa.com) on the main road out of Tarifa towards Vejer. Focussing heavily on quality meats, from top breeds, including Simental, Holstein and Galician Blonde, he is insistent that all must be free range and from cows only between five and 20 years old. “All our steaks come from cows fed naturally with grass from the field,” explains Luciano. “This is the only way to impregnate the fat with that characteristic aroma of grass and milk.” The rest, he explains, is done by maturing for 30 days and cooking them with a holm oak charcoal grill. well The highlight is easily IT’S one of the key references to eat the chuleton, taken in inland Cadiz. Sido ina Med in t, from the first five ribs La Duquesa restauran on e hous of the high loin, where nia, is set in an ancient farm there is marbled fat the edge of the town. in that gives the piece a You either eat in the leafy garden l unique and unmistaksummer or one of the various traditiona one able flavour. dining rooms in winter... but this is The restaurant sits in reference not to miss. a wonderful sheltered

F GEM: Secret spot El Tesoro while (inset) Pacha Mama and award-winning Trattoria

garden, with plenty of shade and an excellent pool for the kids to play in. Also along this stretch of coast look out for the famous Hurricane Hotel and its superb lunch buffet and now romantic restaurant set up in the garden. You must also look out for the El Jardin restaurant at the Punta

Sur hotel (see feature), which is an amazing place to chill out and eat incredibly well. Last, but not least, is the most magical place of all. Called appropriate El Tesoro (meaning ‘treasure’) I am not going to write too much about it, aside from to say, it is one of my

ROM rural estates to beachside boutiques and historic houses to restaurants with rooms, there are so many places to lay down your hat on the Costa de la Luz. Few places come better placed than Tarifa’s Hurricane Hotel and its sister Punta Sur. Set up in the 1980s, the Hurricane (www.hotelhurricane.com) has counted on celebrities and royals among its guests, no surprise given its location in stunning gardens, at the end of celebrated Los Lances beach. Its sister Punta Sur (www.hotelpuntasur.com also sits in an amazing leafy enclave, protected from the famous Tarifa winds, with well appointed rooms and the best pool on the coast. Oh and a tennis court and

favourite dining secrets in Andalucia. Set up in the hills amid vines and a sea of undulating umbrella pines, it really is one pot of gold worth seeking out.

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RESERVATIONS: +34 606 37 78 71 restaurante@eltesorotarifa.es Betijuelo 6, 11380 Tarifa

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July 2022

DREAM RETREATS

IDYLLIC: Pozo del Duque and (below) Califa bedroom

Imagine an oasis of tranquility between pine forests and the beach

great restaurant to boot. Closer to Vejer look out for Cortijo el Indiviso (www.cortijoindi-

viso.com) which counts on 20 hectares of its own beautiful countryside with amazing views to match. An equestrian estate, the historic cortijo has quiet, cool rooms and has a charming patio and pool area to relax in after a long day’s sightseeing. It’s a great place to birdwatch sitting on the edge of the Marismas Natural Park, and owners Eva Carniero and Jason de Carteret are huge animal lovers and have many rescue pets and horses. Nearby in the heart of Vejer you’ll find the seminal Casa de Califa (www.califavejer.com), in the town’s loveliest square. This fabulous Moorish building is set around a charming central patio, where guests take breakfast and dine under candlelight each evening (but don’t forget to book). Next door, its sister Las

Palmeras, also oozes history, but has a fabulous pool to cool off in after a day of sightseeing. Also owned by the group is the fabulous Madreselva Hotel in Canos de Meca, which is just 50m from the village’s famous beach, as well as most of the local restaurants. It has a sleepy courtyard, a small pool and the best breakfast on the coast. Meanwhile, in Zahara you have the excellent Hotel Antonio (www.antoniohoteles.com), sitting on one of Andalucia’s top beaches and with one of the best restaurants on the coast. In the heart of Zahara, you must definitely check out the Hotel Pozo del Duque (www.pozodelduque.com), which also sits right on the beach and counts on two pools, one of them to die for on the roof with some of the best views in Cadiz.

Avda Atlántico 102 • Los Caños de Meca +34 956 43 72 55 • +34 647 71 36 08 califavejer.com

Cortijo El Indiviso Stay~Enjoy~Relax A beautifully restored Andalusian Cortijo in the heart of the Cadiz countryside. Only 15 minutes from white hill-top towns and the spectacular beaches of the Costa De La Luz. This stunning 22 acre hotel & farm offers riding, swimming, yoga; spectacular sunsets and complete relaxation. Available for private events, fiestas, weddings & film locations.

Horse Riding~Yoga~Surf Book now: +34 621 209 050 Facebook: Cortijo Indiviso email: reception@cortijoindiviso.com or events@cortijoindiviso.com www.cortijoindiviso.com Manzanete, 9, Km. 1.1, Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz, 11150, Spain

established since 2001

tel: +34 673 460 765 info@latrattoriatarifa.com www.latrattoriatarifa.com Holy Trinity, 17 11380 Rate

The true taste of Italian cuisine in Tarifa Among various pastas our famous linguine with seafood stands out

Slow fermentation ensures soft homemade dough

Open from noon and into the evening Italian staff Italian imported ingredients Large shaded terrace on the old wall of Tarifa The only pizzeria in the province of Cadiz to have the Verace Pizza Napoletana quality mark

stunning spot, big garden, palms and pool! A Great place to eat with charcoal grill, wood oven, burgers, salads, pizzas, big ribs, fresh fish, vegan and vegetarian dishes. TOP QUALITY STEAKS From grass-fed free range cows, between 5 and 20 years old. SUSTAINABLE TUNA of the Wild Red company, the best you have eaten !

Tel: +34 620 22 44 www.pachamamatarifa.com Ctra Nacional N-340, km 81 • 11380 Tafifa (Cadiz) email: infopachamamatarifa@gmail.com

BUSINESS

Cash happy

TOURISTS are splashing the cash, with foreign visitors now spending more money than before the pandemic. Aaccording to data released by the Spanish National Institute of Statistics (INE) tourists spent a total of €1.1 billion in Andalucia in May alone. During the month, 1,036,243 tourists headed to the region with an average budget of €1,100, some 12% more than before the pandemic. Andalucia is the third most popular region of Spain for tourists after the Baleares and Cataluñya - with over a quarter of visitors coming from the UK (28%) and 11% from France. A report from the American multinational VISA also revealed that Andalucia is the top destination for Americans visiting Spain, who cited the cultural visits, relaxing beaches and sprawling countryside as the main attractions.

July 13th July 26th 2022

Construction giants fined and banned from public tenders for collusion SOME of Spain’s biggest construction companies have been fined €204 million for collusion over public contracts. Spain's antitrust regulator said the six firms had illegally shared information on bids for public projects over a period of 25 years. These were often for major infrastructure projects such as roads and airports, but also affected bids at a smaller local level. A spokesman for the National Markets and Competition Commission (CNMC) said that the companies will also be banned from working with public authorities. The guilty companies are some of the biggest names in the country with the biggest penalties handed to Dragados

SPAIN’S jobless figure dropped to 2,880,582 in June, its lowest level since October 2008. This was 42,409 fewer than in May, according to data published by the Spanish Ministry of Labour and Economy. The Spanish Social Security system has now set a new record with 20.3 million people working across Spain. According to the Ministry there are 733,757 fewer unemployed people than in June 2021. However, the decline in joblessness in June

Dirty diggers By Dilip Kuner

(fined €57.1 million), FCC Construccion (€40.4 million), and Ferrovial Construccion (€38.5 million).

Back in work 2022 was four times lower than in 2021, when it fell by 166,921 - its largest drop ever as pandemic restrictions were lifted. Second Deputy Prime Minister of Spain, Yolanda Diaz, claimed: “We continue in a downward trend with regards to unemployment and companies are creating more indefinite contacts than ever, however, there is still a lot to do.”

The others are Acciona Construccion (€29.4 million), Obrasco Huarte Lain, (€21.5 million) and Sacyr Construccion (€16.7 million). A spokesman for Dragados said the company disagreed with the decision and pledged to appeal it. The regulator claimed that between 1992 and 2017, the companies met weekly to discuss which projects they were going to bid on. They would then devise a common strategy and share technical documents between them. This, said the regulator, affected bidding on thousands of construction projects advertised by public authorities throughout Spain.

DRAMATIC SHIFTS T

GBP/EUR exchange rate skyrockets amid Eurozone recession fears, writes Peter Loveday

HE pound euro (GBP/EUR) exchange rate saw some dramatic shifts in movement over the past two weeks amid fears of global recession, diverging central bank policy, and UK political uncertainty. GBP/EUR began the past two weeks on a slow decline, falling as low as €1.15 before rocketing up to almost €1.18 as Eurozone recession fears increased. WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING? Poor Eurozone PMI results helped the pound to climb higher against the euro toward the end of June. Eurozone growth slowed to a 16-month low across the manufacturing and services sectors. An improvement to UK retail sales for May also likely helped Sterling to make gains. Confidence in the pound faltered amid fresh Brexit-related headwinds, however. A strong US dollar limited major losses for GBP/EUR however as it sapped demand for the single currency. The exchange rate slumped following a day of central bank speeches at the very end of June. The Bank of England’s (BoE) Governor Andrew Bailey led with a cautious tone which saw investors drastically pare back their bets on future rate hikes. The European Central Bank (ECB) president Christine Lagarde meanwhile signalled her commitment to future rate hikes by the central bank. The beginning of July saw the euro nosedive. Soaring energy prices and fears that Russia may soon cut off gas supplies to Europe dramatically increasing the risk of an imminent Eurozone recession and pushing EUR exchange rates sharply lower. At the same time the resignation of Prime Minister Boris Johnson also helped to bolster the pound in the first week of July as it quelled UK political uncertainty. WHAT DO YOU NEED TO LOOK OUT FOR? Looking ahead for Sterling, next week is set to bring fresh GDP figures for May. Economic growth is expected to fall, albeit at a reduced rate, which could see confidence in the UK’s economy falter further.

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ESTEPONA

Unemployment figures later in the month could be a key driver of bets on action from the BoE. The next UK consumer price index will also be closely watched by investors. If inflation remains high, then the pound could climb owing to the need for aggressive rate hikes from the BoE. The aftershock of Johnson’s resignation could weigh on Sterling in the coming weeks. A protracted leadership battle could prompt further uncertainty and limit any bullish bets on the pound. The euro’s movements are also set to be driven by speculation over central bank movements ahead of the ECB’s interest rate decision toward the end of the month. Investors will certainly be looking to speeches from various policymakers, including the ECB President Lagarde, for further hints on the central bank’s forward policy. On the other hand, the euro is at risk of plummeting if Russia moves to cut off gas exports to Europe as the resulting disruption would inevitably plunge the Eurozone into a recession.

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PROTECTING AGAINST VOLATILITY This kind of volatility can cause some nasty surprises if you need to transfer money overseas. On a £200,000 transfer, just a onecent gap translates to a €2,000 difference. And the larger the sum, the higher the discrepancy. Fortunately, there are ways that you can protect against volatility. Specialist currency brokers, such as Currencies Direct, offer different tools to help you navigate the ups and downs of the currency market. For instance, you can use a forward contract to secure an exchange rate for up to a year. This way, you won’t lose out if the market moves against you. Services like rate alerts and daily updates make it easy to keep track of what’s going on in the forex world so that you can make informed decisions. And with Currencies Direct you’ll have a dedicated account manager there to provide guidance and support whenever you need them.

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PROPERTY

Bedsit land

AS property in Madrid becomes more expensive, an investment company is looking to return to the days of bedsits. Dazia Capital will spend €15 million on transforming a former industrial building in Tetuan (Madrid) into a ‘co-living’ property. Originally it was intended to convert the 2,700sqm property into 32 rental apartments at a cost of €8.5 million. But now the co-living project will comprise 79 ensuite bedrooms, divided into groups of eight that will share common spaces such as kitchens and dining rooms. Most of Dazia’s properties are in Madrid, with some on the Costa del Sol.

July 13th - July 26th 2022

Nice set-up Film set where Sergio Leone made iconic film is up for sale By Dilip Kuner

FOR SALE: Western Leone

PRIVATE SALE

Full of rustic charm this spacious 100 year old country cottage offers beautiful open views from the terraces, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, lounge/diner, office, workshop, parking space and walking distance to village. 740m plot. Casa Camaleon Country Cortijo, Los Romanes.

129,500 Euros

PROPERTY OF THE WEEK S OU L A BU INC A F F

A BUYER is wanted for the film set where iconic Sergio Leone film Once Upon a Time in the West was shot. The mock town was built by the Italian director in the Tabernas desert of Spain’s Almeria back in 1968. The movie starred Henry Fonda, Claudia Cardinale and Charles Bronson and was part of a series of spaghetti westerns directed by Leone and filmed in the desert. Western Leone is one of three sets to survive as theme parks and has now been put up for sale as its present owners want to retire. Whoever takes on the set – which the sellers insist must be preserved as a tribute to the movies filmed there – will be walking in the footsteps of acting greats. Other stars to have filmed there include James Coburn, Faye Dunnaway, Yul Brynner and Jack Palance. Not far from Western Leone is the set A Fistful of Dollars,

STAR: Henry Fonda For a Few Dollars More and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, were filmed, making Clint Eastwood a Hollywood A-lister. Jose Ruda, of Grupo Rukasa which is handling the sale, told EFE: “Anyone can buy it, but we are looking for someone to preserve to the smallest detail these 40 years of history, this bit of the history of Tabernas, of Almeria, where the Spaghetti Western was born.” The surviving set includes the Western, Indian and Mexican ‘towns’ that featured in more than one movie.

Studios

“It has everything to begin functioning from minute zero, with eight hectares out front that can be developed into a film school or recording studios,” added Ruda.

Squatters wrongs FI140

695.000€ Coin, Malaga

4 bed, 3 bath Build: 495m2

Fabulous finca with AFO that enjoys a large plot of land mainly with fruit trees for own use. Crossed in part by the Nacimiento stream, with its own waterfall and natural pool. Completely fenced, with water from the town hall and own well for irrigation.

SECOND home owners have been warned of a risk of squatters moving in. The General Council of Real Estate Agents in Spain expressed concerns following a rise in the number of ‘ocupados’ in Spain. Second home owners in the Balearic Islands, Catalonia, the Canary Islands, Murcia, Valencia and Madrid are most at risk. Estate agents claim that the laws are unclear and do not favour property owners.

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RISK: Squatting is an emotive subject

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FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL

Taxing decision

MALAGA city hall has rejected proposals for a tourist tax. Podemos, which put forward the plan, claimed a tax on tourists would generate up to €10 million by charging visitors a €1.50 a night tax. Regions such as Catalunya, the Balearic Islands and Valencia already impose a similar tax. In Valencia, the amount varies between €0.50 per night for campsite or hostel stays and €2 for those staying in a 4 or 5 star hotel. Podemos councillor Paqui Macias said revenues from the tax could be invested into sustainability measures and the maintenance of the city. But the governing PP rejected the tax, saying any change would have to come from the Andalucian government, which rejected the measure in 2019.

IN A FRENZY

THANKS to a ‘travel frenzy’ sweeping Europe, tourism bosses are hoping Spain will match the record visitor numbers of 2019. According to the Exceltur Tourism Association Spain has seen a ‘dazzling surge in tourist numbers’. Official figures show that 22.7 million tourists visited the country in the first five months of 2022 - a massive seven times the number in the same period of 2021 but it is still just 78% of the record year of 2019.

OP Puzzle solutions Across: 6 Of course, 7 Turk, 8 Hazy, 9 Parallel, 10 Get back, 13 TV set, 14 Stomp, 16 Not very, 20 Brush-off, 21 Ping, 22 Curd, 23 Tolerant. Down: 1 Of late, 2 Holy, 3 Tropic, 4 Merry, 5 Frieze, 7 Tel Aviv, 11 Bemused, 12 Ken, 15 Torque, 17 On file, 18 Run-ins, 19 South, 21 Pore.

SUDOKU

Quick Crossword

Hopes for a record year as tourism surge is described as ‘dazzling’ By Dilip Kuner

However, the good news is that tourists are spending more than ever, with the total tourism spend for the first five months standing at €22.77 billion - matching the 2019 figure for the same months. Exceltur hopes that a recent surge in bookings will see this year’s visitor numbers match

2019. Before the pandemic Spain was the second most popular tourist destination in the world behind France and just ahead of the USA, a position it hopes to cement this summer. Tourism Minister Reyes Maroto backed Exceltur’s optimism, saying: “The number of bookings confirms Spain as a favourite international destination and indicates a good outlook for the high season.” Fernando Valdes, a tourism ministry spokesman, added: “After two long years we are finally going to see a summer like in previous years.” Exceltur believes tourism will generate €151.8 billion this year, some €10 billion more than initially expected. This would be slightly lower than the €155 billion reached in 2019 but far more than the €52 billion of 2020 or the €88 billion generated a year later.

July 13th - July 26th 2022

Chicken virus THERE has been an outbreak of a poultry disease on a chicken farm. Newcastle disease virus (VND) has been detected in birds in Huercal-Overa, Almeria. The farm, which houses around 10,000 chicks, reported a surge in sudden deaths. Tests confirmed many had VND, leading to every chick being slaughtered and all food supplies destroyed. Jose Maria de Torres, Andalucia's Director of Public Health and Pharmaceutical Regulation, said the virus is deadly to many kinds of birds. He said that the disease can be transmitted to humans and cause ‘mild flu-like symptoms and conjunctivitis in humans’ in extremely rare circumstances. He added that the virus is destroyed by cooking.

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FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL

July 13th - July 26th 2022

BadAdvisor The Alhambra Palace is boring, Sevilla’s Giralda is pointless, and the Caminito del Rey isn’t dangerous enough … It must be true: we read it on TripAdvisor

Mezquita Cathedral, Cordoba “IT is a very impressive structure inside,” says this reviewer after casting an eye over the 856 columns of marble, granite, jasper and onyx, and ornately carved ceilings of this UNESCO World Heritage site, “but other than that there is really not a lot to do”. Leewho

Aeronautical Museum, Malaga

NDALUCIA is not all it’s cracked up to be. Or so it seems to the many tourists who have taken to TripAdvisor to express their disappointment with some of the region’s top attractions. After all, it’s always a letdown to find an ancient Roman ruin that’s just a pile of old stones,

a prehistoric cave without any natural light, or a cathedral that offers no tourist activities other than … looking at the cathedral. There’s just no pleasing some folk! From the confused and disillusioned to the just plain bored, check out some of the daftest TripAdvisor reviews given to some of Andalucia’s most venerable monuments.

Giralda tower, Sevilla

Malaga has over 30 museums and, in 2017, rebranded itself as the ‘City of Museums’. “It’s as though some of the museums have just been put there to give tourists something to do.”

THE Giralda – part Muslim minaret, part Catholic bell tower – encapsulates the cultural heritage of Andalucia. What’s more, the views from the top are so spectacular it’s said the sultan himself used to ride a horse up the 35 ramps to admire them. “Didn’t really understand what the point was – it’s a big tower.”

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Cathedral, Sevilla THE magnificent Cathedral, the largest Gothic church in the world, is right in the heart of the city, and quite literally unmissable. “We didn’t go.” Phil A.

Gav C.

Nerja Caves, Nerja

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STRETCHING almost 5 kilometres, this series of extraordinary underground caverns has prehistoric cave paintings and a stalagmite that is thought to be, at 32 metres, the tallest in the world. What it doesn’t have is sunshine. “Bit gloomy”.

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WHEN Sevilla needed somewhere really special to hold the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, the city pulled out all the stops with a lavish palace and one of the greatest squares in Spain. It’s a masterpiece built to impress. “This place has absolutely nothing to

Plaza de España, Sevilla do or see except a large building surrounded by gardens.” Asheesh1287

FOOD & DRINK

July 13th July 26th 2022

Caminito del Rey, Malaga AFTER a number of fatalities, the walkway, over 100 years old and often described as the ‘most dangerous path in the world’, was closed in 2014. Extensive engineering work was undertaken to ensure the safety of all future visitors to this spectacular site – but it’s just not the same: “Fully fenced and protected and hardly the adventure it once was.” Matt B

El Tajo gorge, Ronda WHO stuck Ronda inland and on top of a ravine? “Ronda itself was lovely but it took too long to get there on the bus.”

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LA CULTURA

July 13th - July 26th 2022

FAB ART Superb local art at La Fabrica in the Alpujarran town of Lanjaron, writes Jo Chipchase and Fred Shively

N ex-olive factory in the centre of Lanjaron is playing home to a bustling venue for art, music, and theatre from La Alpujarra’s most talented artists. Run by a group called Artists Network Alpujarra (ANA), it is the place to see exhibitions of painting, ceramics, photography, collage, and sculpture, as well as participate in various classes and workshops. Focusing on its local zone, La Fabrica has run exhibitions to celebrate the life of celebrated poet, Federico Garcia Lorca, and the history and culture of the Alpujarras. Notable shows have included

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SHOWCASE: La Fabrica is a cultural hub work from Granadino Jose Manuel Haro ‘Mirlo’ and Chite’s Gym Halama. The venue hosts music nights, from classical to jazz, rock, and folk. Artists have included Zeger Gabriel and Andres Ruz, international flautist Lara Wong with guitarist Melon Jimenez, the Marcial Heredia Trio with their flamenco fusion, and Fernando Gallego - who was part of the renowned Gin Tonics and is now a successful solo artist. La Fabrica has also held fashion shows and wine tastings, poetry readings, tango lessons, basket weaving, coding, writing classes, dance performances and a multi-cultural event to raise money for Ukrainian refugees. La Fabrica is a not-for-profit association, run by ANA SMALL CLASS and is funded by membership fees. The venue’s SIZES social media now attracts people from throughout EuIN-SCHOOL rope and of many different SUPPORT FOR ALL nationalities. Membership of ANA gives EXCEPTIONAL entry to exhibitions and events, free entry into TEACHING La Fabrica and the bar. Non-members pay an entry CHILD CENTERED fee of €5. People can proAPPROACH pose their own events and exhibitions to La Fabrica team.

HEALTH

Milk of kindness

MORE than 1,000 litres of human milk have been donated in just over a year since a pioneering initiative was launched in a Spanish region. Some 160 babies have benefited from the breast milk donation scheme set up by the Murcian Health Service in March 2021. Some 230 women have already donated breast milk which has been given to newborns that weigh less than 1.5 kilos or who are born before 32 weeks.

Donate

Women are interviewed as part of the scheme and must have a health check before they are able to donate. Once they are approved by the hospital, their milk is frozen before it is transported to Arrixaca Hospital in Cartagena where it is analysed, pasteurised and frozen once again.

July 13th - July 26th 2022

Game changer Pill to tackle Covid now available to most vulnerable in Spain TABLETS that reduce the severity of Covid-19 symptoms can now be bought in Spain. Paxlovid is available in Andalucia, Aragon, Navarra, Cantabria and Catalunya, with it expected to be rolled out across the rest of the country imminently. The tablets require a prescription from a doctor and they are currently reserved for people most vulnerable to the illness. The medication is made by Pfizer and people can take it up to five days after testing positive for Covid.

By Jorge Hinojosa

The drug reduces respiratory difficulties and early studies suggest it could cut hospitalisations and deaths by up to 90%. The treatment consists of taking the tablet every 12 hours, for five consecutive days. The news has been welcomed by the medical profession in Spain, though there are some unknowns about the drug. For example, it has not been tested extensively on pregnant women or

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on people who take other forms of medication. Experts say pregnant women should avoid taking the

COVID SURGES

THE incidence rate of Covid in Spain more than doubled in June. According to the Ministry of Health the vast majority of cases are registered in patients aged over 60 years old. There are currently 1,225.28 cases per 100,000 inhabitants, compared to a rate of 586.71 per 100,000 in-

habitants at the start of June. At the moment there are around 12,000 Covid cases in Spanish hospitals and last week 321 people died of the illness, most of them in Castilla La Mancha and Madrid. Some 92,7% of the population is vaccinated with 39,113, 419 people having had at least two jabs.

drug until further research has been completed. Fears are growing that Spain is approaching a seventh wave of Covid. By last week Spain had 10,245 people hospitalised by the illness.

Infections

Compulsory face masks in indoor spaces could be reintroduced to help tackle the rising infections as cases rise. Health bosses say the option needs to be kept available, although there are no immediate plans to do so.

Stubbed out

A SPANISH town is to set up smoke-free zones in places frequented by minors, such as parks, playgrounds, plazas and green areas. The idea comes from the Spanish Association Against Cancer (AECC) and Benalmadena council on the Costa del Sol has approved the move. Now the council is asking people to tell them which areas should be made smoke free.

Medicinal cannabis

Pharmacies in Malaga have announced that they are ‘ready and willing’ to participate in the dispensing of cannabis derived drugs. Until now only hospital pharmacies have the legal permission to dispense medicinal cannabis, and the situation will remain unchanged until at least the end of the year. However, the Spanish Medicines Agency (AEMPS) now has six months to make a decision and it is in its hands to permit pharmacies to also dispense drugs derived from cannabis.

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Olive Press Costa del Sol – 170mm x 256mm – Colour

July 13th

July 13th - July 26th 2022

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The

OLIVE PRESS

REuse REduce REcycle We use recycled paper

Turkey arrest

FINAL WORDS

A TURKEY that bothered residents with its loud gobbling in a Pilar de la Horadada, Costa Blanca, neighbourhood was netted by police who had to clamber onto a roof to reach it.

Long walk! SPAIN’S longest catwalk, which stretches 300 metres along Malaga’s iconic Calle Larios, will see models displaying the latest fashions in front of 30,000 people on September 2 and 3.

Puffed out POLICE arrested a man who flew into Alicante-Elche airport on an easyJet Belfast flight after he was caught smoking a cigarette in the plane’s toilet.

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Vol. 16 Issue 398 www.theolivepress.es July 13th - July 26th 2022

CHILLING OUT Meaty ice lollies and worm slushies as zoo tries to keep animals cool

WITH temperatures soaring to above 40 degrees as the second heatwave of the year strikes, a zoo has decided to treat its animals to cooling ice creams. But these frozen treats are not the same as the sugar-laden versions humans enjoy. Staff at Bioparc Fuengirola use vegetables and fruit, chopped meat, fish and insects combined with

ferent species and the keepers are doing juices to stimulate the senses of e v e r y t h i n g many of the species such as ti- they can to sure COOL CAT: Leopard has its treat gers, leopards, gorillas, hippos make and meerkats that call the zoo that all the animals stay hydrated and cool tigers and leopards, can lick home. The conservation centre is in the face of this incredibly hot at frozen blocks of ice water mixed with blood and pieces of home to more than 200 dif- weather. While the big cats, including meat, other animals have their own icy treats adapted to their own particular diet. A WOMAN has been fined €200 after police In the case of gorillas, chimcaught her tootling along a toll motorway on an panzees, gibbons and lemurs, electric scooter. the kitchen prepares colorful Guardia Civil spotted her on the AP-7 between San sorbets of beet juice, spinach Pedro Alcantara and Estepona on the Costa del Sol. combined with pieces of other She must have raised a sweat - officers say not only vegetables, and fruit such as was it a blistering hot day but the battery on her apples, carrots, tomatoes, bascooter had run out. She was left pushing with one nanas and watermelon. foot for around 12 kilometres before police picked her up. Meerkats Electric scooters can only be ridden in bike lanes and on roads with speed limits of 30 km/h or less. And the popular meerkats get FAST LANE: On the wrong road The AP-7 has a speed limit of 120 km/h. slushies of worms and grasshoppers to enjoy. By Dilip Kuner

Scooting along

IT’S not easy to run in heels but participants of Pride Week in Madrid had a go. Runners strapped on their killer heels and hot-footed it through the area cheered on by massive crowds. Several came a cropper, turning their ankles and sprawling to the ground. But most made it to the finishing line unscathed. Madrid’s Pride Week is one of the most globally famous and attracts around 2 million visitors to the city each year.

No sex please FAR RIGHT political party VOX has blamed Spain’s low birthrate on too much sex. According to the party’s Juan Garcia-Gallardo, casual sex and the ‘hypersexualisation’ of society is to blame for women having fewer children. The 31-year-old claimed that adults are acting like teenagers who would rather have casual sex than be burdened with a child. He added that people should be married and have sex to procreate.