IN ZAHARA

which there’s no escape.

Ecologically sound, immature tuna can wriggle out through the mesh and live to spawn another day. The thrilling part is the Levantá. Several will be held between April and June, dependent on wind, tides and sea conditions and decided by the almadraba’s ‘captain’.

Then, the fishermen encircle this seething cauldron of captive tuna in their boats and hoist the nets out of the water. They will have no more than six hours to raise thousands of kilos of frenzied fish. ‘Almadraba’ is Arabic for ‘place of fighting’ and the name’s well-justified. Zahara boasts one of the ‘big four’ Atlantic almadrabas in

Spain, along with those of Tarifa, Conil and Barbate which also hold their own rutas de atún during May and June. In 2010, Barbate welcomed 50 celebrity chefs to its festival including Ferrán Adriá, Juan María Arzak and

Dani García.

Quotas are strictly controlled to preserve declining stocks of this endangered fish and today, Japanese ships queue up in the bay to buy tuna directly from the almadrabas. Atún rojo is a highly prized ingredient of sushi and sashimi and sells in Japan for four or five times its price in Spain. The current record for a 278 kilo bluefin sold at auction in

Tokyo is a cool €2.7 million! If you can time it right, you can book a boat trip to see the levantá from a distance but there’s little chance of taking part, unless you’re well-connected or prepared to bribe your way onto a boat (a figure of €200 a head has been mentioned). Gaspar is disapproving . “It’s illegal and dangerous – one tourist lost three fingers.”

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TARIFA is a place worth fighting for.

The town, which has changed hands between Phoenicians, Romans, Muslims, and Christians, straddles the Med and Atlantic and offers a commanding position of the Straits of Gibraltar. Historically, whoever controlled the town controlled the shipping routes between North Africa and Europe.

You need to dip back into the aeons of time, to AD 710, when the town got its name from an Arab officer named

Tarif-Ibn-Malik who led the Moors’ first successful expeditionary force into Spain. Today, it’s Tarifa’s expansive white-sandy beaches and famed winds which have tourists and kite surfers jockeying for space in her coastal waters.

But it’s the old town, a five minute walk from the beach, that ultimately gives the gorgeous landscape its windwhipped and sea-sprayed patina.

In narrow cobblestone alleys, hemmed in by white walls

Trip to the shops

By Isabel Max

inlaid with colourful doors, you’ll find yourself transported back in time to when Malik and his forces strengthened the mediaeval castle walls, parts of which still stand.

Very much the real Spain and ancient authentic Andalucia, the winding, cobbled streets were designed in AD 910 to offer shade at all times of day.

All the better for the modern-day shopper with the best shops to be found along Calle Nuestra Señora de la Luz which also offer something of a history lesson, as well.

The Moroccan shop, Etnika,

TARIFA is famous for its wind, which draws in many visitors looking to participate in the kite surfing scene. But its beaches are more than just a place to practise tricks in the water: the ankle-deep white sand and, thankfully even, some sheltered spots, ensure there’s something for everyone along the 35-km coastline. Of course, it’s useful to have a car. But can you enjoy a beach holiday here without one? Regina Roberts investigates on foot.

Playa Chica

Located right next to Tarifa old town, Playa Chica separates the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Just 10 minutes walk to get there from the heart of the old town, it is small and can get a bit crowded at certain times of day, not to mention noisy. But on the plus side there was no strong wind, which meant it was perfect for swimming and the water was calm and clear with no kitesurfers. The only beachfront restaurant is El Chiringuito Lounge Beach, and due to its location, it’s a little pricier than other places in town.

Playa Chica is ideal for those wanting to relax on the beach with friends but still feel the lively atmosphere of Tarifa.