PADDLING IN kzn

PAddling in KZN Albert Falls Dam to Nagle Dam Section jan de neef

This past Sunday, whilst sweeping the Jock Claasens memorial race from Albert Falls weir to Baynes Drift, the more leisurely (and my normal) pace at the back of the field allowed some reflection on the different challenges, opportunities and personalities presented by this, probably the most paddled river in the country.

Most people get involved in this sport with their prime motivation being completing the Dusi; there is volumes of information available regarding the route and challenges of this iconic race, so for the purposes of this article, lets concentrate on the river between Albert Falls and Nagle dams.

The first river experience for the bulk of KZN wannabe paddlers is a trip down the upper umgeni, where, for most, their first obstacle, (and first swim) happen within 200m at the Albert Falls weir, for pretty much all paddlers this is the start of that never-ending learning curve ….

The river between Albert Falls and the Wartburg bridge usually flows at a navigable but gentle 4-7 cumecs, presenting a relatively safe exposure to the bulk of the different obstacles one finds on rivers; weirs, overhanging trees, horizontal and vertical eddies, differing flows and currents; all in a C-grade river

I recall my first river experience many years back –I and my then paddling partner had over-indulged watching a Comrades marathon, and decided to take up this Dusi challenge; and by the time we got to Albert Falls in a highly unstable and twitchy Accord, too many bets and sweeping brave statements had been made, leaving no choice other than onwards downstream. At least 25 swims and probably 4 hours of purgatory later we had a far better idea of the challenge that awaited us …. Fortunately for most, we were way worse than the average potential paddler, but clearly we were either good learners, masochists, or simply too stubborn as we are both still very much involved.

I don’t think there are any paddlers who don’t have some war stories about the upper umgeni; the 1m weir has claimed more than just your novice paddler;Ant Stott swam there some years back during an Ossie Gladwin, Lyle Wheeler and Graeme Pope-Ellis also are amongst the victims; there are overgrown bramble infested channels ((the umgeni tattoo parlours) technical rapids, all of which will reward the odd moment of complacency with a reminder that the river is always King.

Once the initial challenge of the upper Umgeni has been mastered, the river still presents a most enjoyable 2-3 hr paddle. In addition to the varied paddling conditions, there is always a variety of bird life, and the odd small crocodile to enjoy, and with Kzn weather we can paddle the whole year …. OK it does get chilly in winter, but as long as you stay in the boat ….

Then there are the events which venture downstream of the Wartburg bridge … some upper umgeni races (Ozzie, Nobby Nel) end 4 kms further downstream atThornvale.The river changes personality, with more gradient and testier rapids –definitely worth the 16 km grind above the bridge to get there, and a small step up in challenge, difficulty, enjoyment and for some, a couple of new scrapes and bruises. As we now continue downstream, we get to 40kms of river, which is as unique, testy and enjoyable as any other river in the country. If you are looking for a technical challenge, comparable to the Lowveld Croc, mixed with the Ithala, we have it right here on our doorstep. The water is clean, the river is challenging, and the valley is wild and beautiful.

The weekend of the 17/18 October sees this years 2 day Dam to Dam taking place; this is a 2 man relay where on day 1 you paddle a K2 from Albert Falls ending at Cumberland nature reserve, which is a further 7 km downstream of Thornvale.The day culminates in a couple of testy but enjoyable (as long as you stay in the boat) rapids –Double-drop and the Cataract.

Day 2 is the K1 day where the pairs paddle together for the 34 kms to Nagle dam. (There have been some who have done it in K2’s, but it really is not a good idea …) This is a B+ to A stretch of river, the bulk of which is through a gorge with only a couple of places with road access. The remoteness adds to the allure of the river –there is virtually no flat water involved, but as with the Ithala, due to the technically testing river, there is little opportunity to enjoy the magnificent scenery, with the bulk of the time negotiating long boulder gardens, with maybe 8 or 9 substantial rapids thrown in for good measure.

On November 1st there is the Table Mountain race, which returns to the lower half of the 2nd day of Dam–to-Dam.

As it is a bit more accessible it is paddled a bit more often; it is slighty less technical, and your seconds can get 4 kms downstream of the start

IMAGEs: Jan De Neef

and cheer on the 50% who manage to shoot the Waterfall successfully, before they drive out the way they came, to wait for their paddlers 15 kms downstream at the Nagle Dam weir and rapid, where there is a similar attrition rate. In between the paddlers will enjoy an unforgettable technical paddle through a pristeen river valley. (Details and video coverage of this race are available on myriver.co.za)

These races are generally only possible due to the efforts of a small group of dedicated organisers; primarily John Oliver, who has also done a magnificent job of negotiating the minefield of regulations around Covid19 to get races going again, and Kevin Trodd, who has been quietly chipping away behind the scenes to facilitate the water releases that allow us to enjoy this river.

Borneo Paddle Monkeys Stand Up Paddling in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysian Borneo.

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TREE

-tastrophe well almost!

tracy -lee galloway

Lockdown brought a whole was around a corner just before new meaning to life when it was Rob’s Log. Terry got caught and fell declared.Too many paddlers did not out. Tori got caught butTerence have a dam, a swimming pool or a jumped out his boat to grab Tori river beside them. It was devastating, which resulted in Tate swimming. I to say the least. Boats were dry for was not so fortunate. I was hugging days and days. Albeit they did get the corner thus, I hit the tree block repaired. head-on. My boat left me and I went under the water. My arms grabbed This was our family’s reality. So the tree for dear life. I had water when the time came that we were rushing over my face and thoughts allowed back on the river, our of doom. The immense force of family were the first to trip down the water over my face did not the Upper Umgeni. It was to be make me panic, though. That is the a family fun-filled day out on the benefit of doing a safety course with river. We were super excited. It Rob Hill. was my father-in-law,Terry, in a K1; my husband,Terence, and step-son, I knew that I had to pull my head Tate, in a K2; step-daughter,Tori, in out to survive. So what possibly a k1 and myself in a K1. The Upper felt and looked like a slow-motion Umgeni is always an enjoyable day picture was probably a threeout. It did not disappoint. It was a second movie. I found the almighty glorious day. The water level was strength to pull my head out of around eight cumecs. The birds the water. Who knows where were out chirping and the fish were that strength came from? Thank even jumping. goodness for strong paddling arms! I was facing downstream and could We hit two tree blocks along the see Terence rescuing his children. I way. This was understandable after shouted at him. “If you don’t come the lockdown. There had been no now, I am going to go! I am going to human activity on the river for over drown! Hurry!” Of course, he had 100 days. One was small and easily to ensure his children were safe. avoidable. The other at S-Bend Then he rushed towards me.All made us portage around it. The the time, I was imploring to him to other caught us by surprise as it hurry up as my arms were getting weaker and weaker. I was slipping further and further. If I went under I would be trapped and I would surely drown. I did not want to feel that water over my face again. Then all of a sudden, I felt this strong pull on my lifejacket. I was saved.

Over! It was not over. Our boats and paddles were down the river. So it was time to “cocktail” with two children to recover the boats. I was surprised at how calm a 14yr old and 10yr old could be in such dire straits.Tori lost her takkie and water bottle. I lost the legendary cowgirl that I had done two Dusis with. Thank goodness that was all that was lost.

In hindsight, tree blocks were inevitable after the lockdown. Never underestimate a tree block. Please

ensure you go on a safety course so that you know what to do in an emergency.

I am grateful to my paddling buddies who went the next weekend to cut the tree blocks away. I am in awe of our paddling community and the strength of friendship and camaraderie. Tori and Tate are resilient children. They have paddled again. I have paddled passed “Tracy’s Log” a few times now.