10 Bird Scene - February & March 2013 by Theparrotsociety

BIRD ISSUE TEN: February / MArch 2013

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THE MAGAZINE FOR HOBBYIST BREEDERS AND CONSERVATIONISTS

The National Exhibition

A look ahead to the October show

Red-bellied Fire Finches in Bush and Aviary SELECTING A HAND REARED PARROT AS A COMPANION

iss 13 u th e 1 20 A 1 o 13 pri ut l

Conservation of the Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo in Australia

FR EE

Russell Kingston gives us an insight into this fascinating bird

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CONTENTS

BIRD SCENE: FEBRUARY / MArch 2013

CONTENTS 40

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INTRODUCTION Les Rance updates use on recent developments and outlines the major items in this edition RED-BELLIED FIRE FINCHES An excellent article by from Russell Kingston on these charming little finches. THE NATIONAL EXHIBITION 2013 The latest information on this large exhibition CONSERVATION The latest news on the conservation of the Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo.

Donate to our CONSERVATION FUND… CLICK THE LINK BELOW: www.theparrotsocietyuk.org/donations.php

ON THE COVER

BIRD ISSUE TEN: FEbrUary / MarCh 2013

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THE NATIONAl ExHIBITION

A look ahead to the October show

RED-BEllIED FIRE FINCHES IN BuSH AND AVIARY Russell kingston gives us an insight into this fascinating bird

CONSERVATION OF THE MAjOR MITCHEll’S COCkATOO IN AuSTRAlIA

SElECTING A HAND REARED PARROT AS A COMPANION

Mice How to control them by Rosemary Low

THE MAGAZINE FOR HOBBYIST BREEDERS AND CONSERVATIONISTS

IS 13 Su TH E 1 20 A 1 O 13 PR uT Il

hand reared parroT Selecting a hand reared parrot as a companion

BIRD SCENE: Issue Ten: February / March 2013 BIRD SCENE is run by The Parrot Society UK, 92A High Street, Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire, HP4 2BL, England. FOR SALES AND EDITORIAL ENQUIRES Telephone or Fax: 01442 872245 Website: www.theparrotsocietyuk.org E-Mail: les.rance@theparrotsocietyuk.org

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Introduct T

his is now the tenth edition of Bird Scene and I am really pleased with the progress that has been made with this new e-magazine. For eleven years I

Hand Reared Parrots Page 28

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have edited the Parrot Society magazine which has been very interesting but from its very nature is limited to parrot species excluding the Budgerigar. Bird Scene allows me to study and enjoy all the other species of birds that are kept within UK aviculture many of which are exhibited at The National Exhibition which will again be held at Stafford on Sunday 13th October 2013. In fact one of the major objectives of Bird Scene is to

tion

by the Editor

I am particularly delighted to have an article from Russell Kingston on Red-bellied Fire Finches. publicise The National Exhibition and the bird clubs who have joined with The Parrot Society to allow their members to exhibit birds in a large exhibition. I keep Cape Doves, Java Sparrows, Gouldian finches and Forbes Parrotfinches all of which have their own individual needs and challenges and give me great pleasure to maintain, not to show standard but good aviary birds. There is no doubt that to breed a nest of healthy youngsters of any of these four species gives great satisfaction and all the time I am increasing my knowledge of my charges. In this edition is an article on the conservation of the Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo which is the longest running conservation project that the Parrot Society has supported in fact we are the only supporter of this particular

Les Rance

project and as it was formulated by John Mollindinia a long serving Trustee of our Society it is very important to us. I am particularly delighted to have an article from Russell Kingston on Red-bellied Fire Finches. It is one thing breeding these birds but it also requires the skill and knowledge to write up the results into an interesting and informative article which is supported with some good images. There are a lot of skills being displayed in this article and I am sure that everyone who reads this article will be full of praise for Russell’s dedication with all these areas that have culminated in this article. The words on the progress that is being made on the 2013 National Exhibition are down to me so really at this point there is very little that is worth adding, just enjoy this publication and rest assured that the 2013 event will be the best ever.

Les Rance, Editor, The Parrot Society UK www.theparrotsocietyuk.org | les.rance@theparrotsocietyuk.org

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ARTICLE BY: Russell Kingston OAM

Red-bellied Fire Finches in Bush and Aviary T

here is a small Finch that frequently slips under the radar in Australian aviaries. Maybe it is its docile nature or quiet call. What is it about this delightful little bird that continues to thrive in captivity after fifty-six years of having no injection of fresh blood while many other species have suffered a serious decline - or worse? In this article I will explore the possible reasons for this and other matters surrounding one of the most delightful finches to come out of Africa. Here in Queensland, the Red-billed Fire Finch goes under the obscure jargon of Ruddy or plural, Ruddies. At times it has been incorrectly referred to as the African Fire finch. Other common names include Senegal Fire Finch, Common Fire finch, Fire Finch and the seldom used Australian name of Pigmy Blood Finch. The Afrikaans call them Rooibekvuurvinkie. Whatever common name one wishes to use, they are in the genus Lagonosticta and loosely related to Twinspots and Pytilias. There are eleven species of Lagonosticta. These are: Red-billed Fire Finch, L.senegala; Bar-breasted Fire Finch, L.rufopicta; Brown Fire Finch, L.nitidula; Black-faced Fire Finch,

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Pair Red-Bellied Fire Finches Male: Right Lagonosticta senegala © Howard RobinsonCounty

L.lavata; Black-bellied Fire Finch, L.rara; African Fire Finch, L.rubricata; Jameson’s Fire Finch, L.rhodopareia; Mali Fire Finch, L.virata; Rock Fire Finch, L.sanguinodorsalis; Chad Fire Finch, L.umbrinodorsalis and Palebilled Fire Finch. L.landanae. L.lavata, L.sanguinodorsalis, L.umbrinodorsalis and L.landanae are monotypic whilst the remainder have a number of subspecies, which I have not dealt with here. Red-billed Fire Finches are monogamous breeders. They are also the primary host of the Village Indigo

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Red-billed Fire Finches are monogamous breeders. They are also the primary host of the Village Indigo Bird, Vidua chalybeata, a parasitic Whydah. Natural breeding seasons vary across their wide range depending on the climates.

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Red-billed Fire Finch photographed in Uganda. Photo supplied by Russell Kingston OAM.

Bird, Vidua chalybeata, a parasitic Whydah. Natural breeding seasons vary across their wide range depending on the climates. In captivity, they have been so domesticated that they have lost their instinct for seasonal breeding with the result that they will reproduce at almost any time of the year. In confinement, Red-billed Fire Finches are prolific breeders and will successfully rear fifteen or more youngsters in a single year. A dimorphic species of under 100mm in length, the red body colour of the males may not be confused with the brown females. Both sexes carry fine white spotting on the upper flanks. The male’s brown wings are suffused with red. The red underparts vignette into pale brown or off-white on the belly and ventral region. In both sexes, the mandible is wax red with black

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along the culmen. Red plumage on the female is restricted to lores, rump and upper tail coverts. Both genders carry a distinctive yellow eye-ring. Fledglings are alike and cannot be determined until they commence colouration. Red-billed Fire Finches are widely distributed throughout sub-Saharan Africa. Open savannah and lightly wooded areas are preferred habitat, although I have seen them by roadsides and tracks in such high veldt as the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest of Uganda. Mostly, they gather food and socialize on the ground. The diet consists of small cereals and insects. They are opportunistic in that they will avail themselves of human presence, taking discarded or spilled grain and drinking from leaking taps, drains and dams. Because of their propensity to

Feature spend a lot of time on the ground, they are open to invasion by intestinal worms and Candida. Both are issues for aviculturists to deal with on a regular basis. In the field they are regularly encountered and their trusting nature enables one to approach to within a few metres. They are particularly tame around human habitation and carry this docility into captivity. Red-billed Fire Finches are seldom troublesome when confined with other species. Because of its high numbers in Australia and subsequent low monetary value, it is unlikely that fresh stock has been brought into the country illegally over the past 56 years. Why then do Red-billed Fire Finches continue to flourish while many other species have fallen by the wayside due to the lack of fresh genetic stock? I believe the reason is two fold. Firstly, prior to the cessation of live imports into Australia in 1956, there were a number of various Fire Finch species imported. All have disappeared with some, no doubt, being cross-bred with Red-Billed Fire Finches. Such “hybrid vigour” would ensure their longevity well past the time when one would expect pure strains to survive. Through continual breeding back to the Redbilled Fire finches, the resulting birds that we have today resemble Red-

In the field they are regularly encountered and their trusting nature enables one to approach to within a few metres. They are particularly tame around human habitation… billed Fire Finches with the following variations: (a) the intensity and hue of the red in individual birds. This varies from deep, blood red through to orange-red. In some instances, there is evidence of a suffusion of pink (not to be confused with the “Pink” mutation); (b) A variation of flank spotting from individual to individual. Some birds carry no spots at all while others have a clear cluster of spots. (c) Colouration of the mandible whereby most are wax-red while others display a hint of bluish suffusion. The second factor influencing the longevity of Red-billed Fire Finches in Australian aviaries is their possible tolerance of genetic closeness. In other words, some species are more tolerant of lack of fresh blood than are other species. In captivity, Red-billed Fire Finches are easily catered for and, provided with suitable conditions will readily reproduce. A large well-planted aviary, whilst aesthetically pleasing and enjoyed by the birds, is not essential for successfully breeding of

Open savannah and lightly wooded areas are preferred habitat, although I have seen them by roadsides and tracks in such high veldt as the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest of Uganda. Mostly, they gather food and socialize on the ground. ?? BIRD SCENE 09

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When setting up breeding pairs, one should select partially or half-coloured birds. They will go to nest at six months of age and by their third year, their breeding potential is in decline

Red-billed Fire Finches. I have seen them kept and bred in everything from small cages through to large enclosures. They do tolerate half-open flights. However, care may need to be exercised in cold climates. In deference to their natural habitat, the housing should be devoid of residual dampness. It is important that they be shielded from cold winds and driving rain. Feeding Red-billed Fire Finches is relatively simple. The basis is a good quality dry finch mix of seeds. Additional small seeds will be appreciated. One such seed is Phalaris, a small canary seed that is enjoyed by most waxbills. Half-ripe grass seeds may be taken, although less so than some of the other waxbills such as the Common Waxbill, Estrilda astrild. I have never seen them taking broadleaf greens such as silverbeet. Soft foods, sprouted seed mixtures and plain cake may also be offered. In my experience though, most of their diet in captivity is confined to the dry seed mix and small live food. By far the most successful live food that I feed my waxbills is live termites. Other breeders report success with frozen termites, live or frozen maggots and small mealworms. Larger live food in the form of live crickets, live moths and cockroaches are not taken by the Fire Finches. Because Fire Finches

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like to pick around on the aviary floor, there is a temptation to place their food on the floor. In the interest of good health, however, I urge against this practice. The grit mixture I provide consists of finely ground, baked eggshell, fine shell grit, Diatoms (Avi-Natural), charcoal and finely ground cuttlebone. All drinking and bathing water must be pristine at all times. Whilst Red-billed Fire Finches will reproduce without the availability of live food, reliable breeding results with high productivity are unlikely. I have had pairs rear small numbers of youngsters during my time abroad when the live food has been withdrawn. When setting up breeding pairs, one should select partially or half-coloured birds. They will go to nest at six months of age and by their third year, their breeding potential is in decline. The longevity of Fire Finches is lower than that of most other waxbills and one can only expect a lifespan of only four years in confinement. Red-billed Fire Finches will accept a variety of nest sites within a cage or aviary. Small enclosed or half-open nest boxes, woven wicker baskets, dried gourds, dried brush and shrubbery growing in the aviary will all suffice. In keeping with their opportunistic habits, the preferred nest

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Fledglings emerge from the nest after twenty days. They are usually welldeveloped, albeit with short tails, and capable of short flights. The plumage is almost entirely brown, lighter on the underparts. There is a smudge of Alizarin Crimson on the rump. The mandible is charcoal in colour. building material is variable. This may consist of soft, dried pliable grasses of lengths up to 250mm, soft white feathers and swamp grass. The dome-shaped structure has an entrance hole on one side. A feather of grass head may be placed strategically at the entrance so as to inhibit viewing of the interior. Four or five small elliptical eggs are laid with serious incubation commencing upon the arrival of the fifth egg. In extreme circumstances, up to eight eggs may be laid by a single hen bird. The incubation period lasts for 12 or 13 days. Whilst there are eggs or very young chicks, both parents will brood at night. During daylight hours, the male bird carries out the majority of the incubation duties and, in the evenings, the hen takes over or shares with the male. An increased taking of insects, such as the termites, precipitates the imminent hatching of the youngsters. The parents do this when they hear the youngsters within the eggs. The discarded eggshells are removed from the nest by the parents and deposited

at some distance. The parents do not feed the dark skinned hatchlings for their first 24 hours of life. They are brooded by their parents for the first nine or ten days. If after that period, there is a sudden drop in ambient temperature, the nestlings are at risk of dying of exposure. Fledglings emerge from the nest after twenty days. They are usually welldeveloped, albeit with short tails, and capable of short flights. The plumage is almost entirely brown, lighter on the underparts. There is a smudge of Alizarin Crimson on the rump. The mandible is charcoal in colour. The parents will lead the fledglings back to the safety of the nest for the first three or so nights. The fledglings usually stay together and much of this time may be spent on the aviary floor. Whilst some of the chicks may be seen to be picking around food bowls or on the floor, it should not be safely assumed that they are fully weaned until they are at least two weeks old. I have not experienced issues

An increased taking of insects, such as the termites, precipitates the imminent hatching of the youngsters. The parents do this when they hear the youngsters within the eggs. The discarded eggshells are removed from the nest by the parents and deposited at some distance.

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Feature with parents attacking independent juveniles that are left with their parents. Nor have there been any problems of juveniles interfering with subsequent nests or fledglings. I have never observed older juveniles adopting a supportive role in the rearing of subsequent broods. At the current cost in Australia of an average AUD $60.00 a pair, the Red-billed Fire Finch is a lovely little bird that is a must have for novices and experienced breeders alike. The only sobering note I make is that it is important that every effort is made to ensure sufficient stocks of “normal” birds are bred. Three colour mutations have been established in recent years and whilst attractive in their own right, could in time, threaten the viability of our stocks of normal birds. These mutations are: pied, pink and fawn. While I continue to maintain a small number of pairs of pied birds, I have discarded the Pink mutated birds. I found this dominant mutation difficult to eradicate from my Fire Finch population and only succeeded in doing so by restocking with all new normal birds. With dedicated breeders and a little luck, such a colourful, inexpensive and easily catered for species is assured a place in Australian bird keeping for decades to come.

The fledglings usually stay together and much of this time may be spent on the aviary floor. Whilst some of the chicks may be seen to be picking around food bowls or on the floor… The Society would like to thank Russell for taking the time out of his busy schedule to write this article as we know he is very busy in aviculture. Special thanks to Graeme Hyde for his support with this article. Drawing Pair Red-Bellied Fire Finches - Male: Right Lagonosticta senegala © Howard Robinson

Donate to our CONSERVATION FUND… CLICK THE LINK BELOW: http://www.theparrotsocietyuk.org/donations.php

I have not experienced issues with parents attacking independent juveniles that are left with their parents. Nor have there been any problems of juveniles interfering with subsequent nests or fledglings. I have never observed older juveniles adopting a supportive role in the rearing of subsequent broods. ?? BIRD SCENE 13 09

ARTICLE BY:

LES RANCE

The National Exhibiti 13th October 2013 S

ix years ago The Parrot Society started out on a venture of hopefully rebuilding “The National Exhibition”. The defining factor was whether it was possible for all branches of our hobby to jointly pull together and ‘make it work’ after recording such a success in the first year the question was then whether the enthusiasm would be sustained. It has indeed worked each year since the first Show in 2007 the numbers of exhibits have increased. We can only thank the bird club officials that have all worked so hard to increase the number of exhibits year on year and made this exhibition the success it has become. I am also pleased to announce that the Norwich Canary Club have also joined our ranks and are exhibition their member’s birds for the first time.

We can only thank the bird club officials that have all worked so hard to increase the number of exhibits year on year and made this exhibition the success it has become. I am also pleased to announce that the Norwich Canary Club have also joined our ranks…

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ibition

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By combining this exhibition with the already highly successful Parrot Society October Sale Day at the superbly equipped Staffordshire County Showground a large proportion of the exhibitors were familiar with both the location and the available facilities. UK bird exhibitors now view this event as the premier ‘all variety show’ on the UK calendar. We are delighted that the exhibition is obtaining increasing support from both continental judges and breeders who travel long distances to attend this event it is exciting to think that in a very short time this exhibition has been able to attract these dedicated fanciers from all over Europe. The continental influence

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is not only limited to the fanciers, there is an increasing demand from continental traders to attend this event, further increasing the range of products available to all our enthusiastic visitors. As it is located only a few miles to the east of junction 14 of the M6 vehicles can quickly arrive at the Showground. Arrangements are well in hand for the next Show on Sunday 13th October 2013 a meeting with representatives of all the supporting clubs is being held at The Quality Hotel Coventry on Sunday 28th April. Each time we organise this Show we aim to improve both the exhibitor experience and that of the viewing public and the

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points discussed at this meeting prove invaluable in ensuring improvements continue to achieve these goals. “The National Exhibition” has been kindly sponsored once again by Richard Johnston of Johnston and Jeff and Malcolm Green of The Birdcare Company, who have both supported us from the start. This year their generous sponsorship has also financed additional new staging as exhibits are set to increase and the added attraction of supplements and bird seed as prizes can only help increase the numbers benched. We are indebted to the management and editorial staff of Cage & Aviary Birds magazine for the production of

a very well designed insert, with our contribution being the collation of the information from all the exhibiting clubs. The supplement will appear in their 3rd September 2013 edition and will as previously carry advertisements for all the exhibiting clubs and how to obtain the Show Schedule for your chosen species. This supplement has now become a feature of “The National Exhibition”. Since the show took on the name “The National Exhibition” in 2010 the demand for trade space has significantly increased, with some new traders making their first appearance this year. So whatever your bird keeping requirements they will be on offer at Stafford on 13th October.

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The Sandylands Hall and half of the Argyle Hall will again be used to accommodate the exhibits with the ‘booking in’ and club stands filling the remainder of the Argyle Hall. This facilitates the management of the exhibition during the judging of the birds and allows both exhibitors and general visitor access to the exhibition at the earliest possible time on the day.

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The Parrot Society Council members hope that all the exhibitors and the officials of the specialist exhibiting clubs have a very enjoyable day. The Parrot Society would like to thank the clubs for all the kind words and support that you have given us. It will make the organisation of this year’s “National Exhibition” a pleasure to be involved with.

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ARTICLE BY: DAVID COOMBES

Conservation of the Ma Mitchell’s Cockatoo in in New South Wales, Au 20

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ajor n Australia ustralia

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he tree-tinning project to prevent the active nests of Major Mitchell Cockatoos (Cacatua leadbeateri) being predated by goannas, a type of monitor lizard also known as the Lace Monitor, is the longest supported by the Parrot Society UK. To date just over £ 21,000 has been donated to this exciting conservation project. It all began twenty years ago when John Mollindinia, a highly respected founder member of the Parrot Society UK, travelled to Australia to gain first-hand experience of the Major Mitchell’s cockatoo, a particular favourite of his. There he met Ray Ackroyd, who to this day organises tours in the south-eastern states of New South Wales and Victoria as well as being a government licensed bird trapper. As a result of the availability of water in recent times as well as cereal crops, both in the field and stored, as a result of farming activities in this semi-arid area of Australia had caused an explosion in the cockatoo populations, particularly the Eastern Galah (Eolophus r. albiceps), Slender-billed Corella (Cacatua tenuirostris) and Sulphur-crested Cockatoo (Cacatua g. galerita), which devastated the crops and had been subsequently designated “pest” species by the Australian authorities.

It all began twenty years ago when John Mollindinia, a highly respected founder member of the Parrot Society UK, travelled to Australia to gain first-hand experience of the Major Mitchell’s cockatoo, a particular favourite of his.

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Ray has tried to persuade these authorities to allow export of these species, but to date these attempts have been rebuffed. John Mollindinia noticed during his visit that there were few Major Mitchell’s cockatoos to be seen and then discovered that they suffered from constant predation by goannas, a species of monitor lizard, which nimbly climb the trees when, for instance, they hear chicks calling for food and gobble them up whole. The lizard concerned is the Lace monitor (Varanus varius), which is the second largest of this reptile group reaching 2 metres (6½ feet) in length and weighing as much as 20 kg (44 lbs). They can forage over long distances (up to 3 km - nearly two miles) in one

day and feed on insects, smaller lizards, snakes, small mammals, birds and eggs, which they usually eat whole. They also feed on carrion as well as food waste in domestic rubbish in inhabited areas. The name goanna is believed to be derived from “iguana” with the initial vowel sound dropped because the aborigines found it difficult to pronounce. In addition to the lizards feral cats also predated the nests of the cockatoos. Ray told John that he thought that the problem might be resolved by placing a smooth flexible sheet of tin at least one metre in height around the trees below the nesting cavities which would act as an effective barrier to either lizards or cats reaching the nest. Branches also needed to be cut back on surrounding

John Mollindinia noticed during his visit that there were few Major Mitchell’s cockatoos to be seen and then discovered that they suffered from constant predation by goannas, a species of monitor lizard, which nimbly climb the trees when, for instance, they hear chicks calling for food and gobble them up whole.

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Lace Monitors

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trees so that the lizards or feral cats could not gain access to the nesting cavities that way. This pruning work has to be completed with a bush saw as a chain saw could frighten the birds. Ray agreed with John that he would carry out a trial. As part of this he would also assess the population of Major Mitchell Cockatoos in the local area and make a special note of the youngsters at the end of the next breeding season (1993). The results were very encouraging with an increase in the number of Major Mitchell Cockatoos in the area concerned. Since then Ray has carried out a programme of tinning nesting trees and maintaining them. This is not as straightforward as it sounds. Firstly

he lives near Sydney, several hundred kilometres from the areas concerned, and there are often no proper roads so that the terrain damages his vehicle tyres. The sheaths of metal around the trees have to be covered with camouflage paint so they are not obvious to human predators and the nails refixed if necessary. This is particularly important after a dry period as the nails often work loose. Apart from the tinning and pruning work, Ray also plants camel melons near to breeding trees. These melons are apparently poisonous to human beings, but their seeds are eaten with relish by the cockatoos. The melons were introduced to Australia by Afghans as a food source for their camels, when

As part of this he would also assess the population of Major Mitchell Cockatoos in the local area and make a special note of the youngsters at the end of the next breeding season (1993). The results were very encouraging with an increase in the number of Major Mitchell Cockatoos in the area concerned.

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On his return John Mollindina proposed that the Parrot Society UK support the tinning project with regular donations. When he died in January 2001 the Council decided to continue to support the conservation work in New South Wales, in part to commemorate John Mollindinia’s involvement. these were an important means of transport in the outback. The parrots also feed on pine nuts (probably Callitris columellaris), Wilga seeds (Geijera parviflora), seeds from the mulga tree (Acacia aneura) and tobacco bush (probably Solanum mauritianum) as well as thistledown and various seeding grasses. On his return John Mollindina proposed that the Parrot Society UK support the tinning project with regular donations. When he died in January 2001 the Council decided to continue to support the conservation work in New South Wales, in part to commemorate John Mollindinia’s involvement. In March 2002 David Coombes, who had just retired as Secretary of the Parrot

Society UK, travelled to Australia with several other members of the Society and an active nesting tree was chosen on the Tandou farm of some 206,000 acres (82,400 hectares), which is several hundred miles west of Sydney and north-west of Melbourne, as the memorial site for him. Together with Ray Ackroyd they fastened a metal plaque to the tree - a Curly Mallee (Eucalyptus gillii). It remains there to this day and is maintained by the staff on the Tandou farm. Most writers on the project refer to mallee trees and forests, but this does not refer to a species of tree, but the growing pattern of certain eucalyptus species as well as gum trees (Corymbia sp.) and myrtle (Angophora sp.). In the

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Western Major Mitchell’s

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semi-arid climate of the area these trees grow with multiple stems springing from an underground tuber to a height of no more than 10 metres (33 feet). They form the dominant vegetation throughout the semi-arid areas with reliable winter rainfall of southeast Australia measuring some 250,000 sq. kilometres. The pair of Major Mitchell Cockatoos, who made the nesting cavity in the tree their home have over the years produced many young. Ray Ackroyd visited the tree known as John’s tree, in August of last year after a few years absence on conservation work elsewhere and found that the nesting cavity is still being used by the pair. The latest news on the Conservation front is that Ray

Ackroyd has been asked by the state of Victoria to help promote ways to save the Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo in the state which will involve the assistance of school children. An AUS$10,000 fund is available for this project and we look forward to hearing how this project unfolds in Victoria. The Major Mitchell’s cockatoo is such a beautiful bird we are sure that the school children will rally to support this bird.

Donate to our CONSERVATION FUND… CLICK THE LINK BELOW: http://www.theparrotsocietyuk.org/donations.php

Ray Ackroyd visited the tree known as John’s tree, in August of last year after a few years absence on conservation work elsewhere and found that the nesting cavity is still being used by the pair.

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SELECTING A HAND REARED PARROT AS A COMPANION 28

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hen I first kept parrots as pets there was not the amount of choice that exists today. If you were lucky you might be able to find a young bird that had been bred by a UK breeder but it would be parent reared as hand rearing was still infrequent and it was very hard to find a hand reared young parrot and if you were lucky, it would usually be expensive. These days we are spoilt by the ease with which we can obtain young hand reared birds and comparing the prices with previous decades a hand reared bird is very good value for money if you buy directly from a breeder. Does buying a hand reared parrot guarantee that you will have a wonderful pet? In most cases, the answer is yes but if you think it will automatically be very well behaved and constantly affectionate towards you and always stay the same in personality as it grows up you can be disappointed. When you become a parrot owner you have to be prepared to invest time and effort in training, you may have had experience with cats and/or dogs but when you buy a parrot you have to think more in terms of bringing up a child and one that will never grow up! This is the way to tackle training and nurturing a parrot unless you are

When you become a parrot owner you have to be prepared to invest time and effort in training, you may have had experience with cats and/or dogs but when you buy a parrot you have to think more in terms of bringing up a child and one that will never grow up! BIRD SCENE 29

Do not expect a young lovable baby bird to retain exactly the same personality into maturity. This is actually quite rare in my experience with hand reared parrots.

When the bird is just a youngster it will view its owner as though it was a parent but later on, especially if the parrot is very affectionate it can suddenly decide that YOU are the perfect mate!

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prepared to take it seriously you can easily make errors and many pitfalls await you. Start as you mean to go on from day one of buying your new pet and do make sure you do your homework too, read as much as you can to learn to understand your parrot. There are plenty of books to choose from these days. Do not expect a young lovable baby bird to retain exactly the same personality into maturity. This is actually quite rare in my experience with hand reared parrots. Because they are not in awe of human beings in the way that parent reared or imported birds always used to be they will “try it on” if they see that they can actually scare you! It is a mischievous streak that I have seen in many birds.

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Some parrot behaviour remains the same no matter how the bird was bred and there is a great influence from hormonal changes as a bird develops. One of the most trying times for a parrot owner are when their pet becomes sexually mature. When the bird is just a youngster it will view its owner as though it was a parent but later on, especially if the parrot is very affectionate it can suddenly decide that YOU are the perfect mate! Many of my birds whilst sitting on my shoulder have moved to the back of my neck and grasped my hair and pulled it like mad when their hormones have been raging. As this behaviour is seasonable and does not last for long I have learned how to deal with it over the years. I do

not admonish my birds, I just put them down and give them a food treat or a toy and do not handle them too much until the breeding urge has subsided. It is important to show your pet that you are not intimidated by their behaviour because like naughty children they will do it all the more if you show fear of annoyance. Whilst is it important to achieve a level of obedience from your bird it can be counter productive to be over ambitious and you can be too strict which might result in your pet becoming timid so you have to get the balance right. Many new owners make the mistake of over indulging a new pet during the first few weeks of ownership. If your attention then becomes less on a daily

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Training your bird should be regular and consistent. Do not allow bad behaviour on one occasion and then try to discourage it later. A regular routine when your bird knows what to expect each day will always be more successful than an unplanned regime.

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basis, this can create problems later on. It is better to be firm at the start and as your pet learns what they may or may not do then you can be a little more indulgent when they have learned what is allowed and what is forbidden. When you have to rebuke your pet never raise your voice this will only make them over excited. The level of noise in general in your home will also affect a parrot, if you have a noisy household you may find you gain a loud parrot to match. Training your bird should be regular and consistent. Do not allow bad behaviour on one occasion and then try to discourage it later. A regular routine when your bird knows what to expect each day will always be more successful than an unplanned regime. Parrots know exactly what time of day it is and when it is time for their meals, when it is bedtime and when it is a new day. Even the moving forward or back of the clock does not fool them. Parrots also have very good hearing and they can smell food cooking from quite a distance. My birds are all mad about pasta and they know when their favourite vegetables are on the boil! If you expect your pet to be one

hundred per cent well behaved all the time you will be in for a disappointment. As you gain experience you will get to know any odd foibles your pet may have and while certain species have predictable habits you should always bear in mind that every bird has its own personality and you cannot judge behavioural issues just on the basis of a typical member of a species. One of the most important points to bear in mind is that your young bird will grow up with a personality which YOU helped to form. A hand reared bird will also often exhibit behaviour and habits which it has learned from the person who hand reared them. I am often asked about how to teach a bird to talk for some people this is highly desirable and is often frustrating if their bird is not interested in talking. The truth is that to have a good talker you have to work at it, and it is better to buy a young bird which is already saying a few words. I personally have never based my choices on talking potential and I was always quite happy just to have a healthy and happy bird. Some birds just start saying things they hear at home on a daily basis and my birds who talk more or less copied one

I am often asked about how to teach a bird to talk for some people this is highly desirable and is often frustrating if their bird is not interested in talking. The truth is that to have a good talker you have to work at it, and it is better to buy a young bird which is already saying a few words. I personally have never based my choices on talking potential and I was always quite happy just to have a healthy and happy bird.

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litre basis. The bigger the bird the more they

I hope this clarifies a very important topic.

PARROT SOCIETY MAGAZINE: 11

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another in the human words they use. The one with the best diction is my Double Yellow Headed Amazon, Carlos, whom I obtained when he was 10 months old, he already spoke quite a few words but picked up the later skills he developed from my Blue & Gold Macaw, Max. Carlos speaks as though he has had elocution lessons. He is a little shy about speaking in front of people he does not know but will chatter happily when a visitor he knows arrives. There are two items of advice that I feel are most important to mention to anyone buying a parrot for the first time. First of all the cause of distress to many an unsuspecting parrot owner is keeping a parrot that is an escape artist. Forget about owning a bird that bites, shouts or even chews the furniture all these habits are nothing compared to the anguish caused by losing a parrot because it has flown off through an open door or window. When you buy a parrot and you let it out indoors, ALWAYS MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ESCAPE ROUTE. I know parrots who can open padlocks on their cages within seconds and although I have only had one bird escape and we were lucky enough to be able to lure her home with her mate, losing a bird by it escaping can be absolutely heart breaking. Another problem which is very distressing is when you buy a parrot and

for some reason or other it just DOES NOT LIKE YOU. This can be a very unpleasant experience and whilst you can sometimes win a bird over there are birds who just will never like you. The reasons for this are difficult to quantify but it can be quite simply because you have the wrong colour hair, or your voice is disliked or because they are missing a previous owner who may have sold them or may even have died. In my experience a bird will often start to trust you after a time but if it takes a major dislike to you from day one it is often kinder to seek someone that the bird does like and re-home them. It is very upsetting when your pet bird likes your best friend but not you. In families a parrot will often decide on its own who it wished to be their best human friend. Quite frequently a bird may prefer their owner to be the opposite sex to their own. Sometimes a parrot can be very jealous of the human partner of their owner and I have dealt with numerous cases like this, one such case was on the TV programme Pet Power with Anthea Turner when we managed to retrain a Conure to accept its owner’s wife. You may ask how can I ensure I get the right parrot for me? Tricky this one but you can often tell when you first meet a parrot, especially if it climbs towards

Forget about owning a bird that bites, shouts or even chews the furniture all these habits are nothing compared to the anguish caused by losing a parrot because it has flown off through an open door or window. When you buy a parrot and you let it out indoors, ALWAYS MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ESCAPE ROUTE.

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you if it is enclosed in a cage. The parrot who leans through the cage bars to try to get closer to you may well be expressing interest in going home with you. This happened to me when I bought Carlos at a bird show. If you can find a breeder who will allow you to visit a young bird they are hand rearing several times before you actually take possession this is often the best way to select a companion bird. Establishing a rapport in this way is a very good start.

DO’S AND DON’T’S

Don’t reject a parrot that is over effusive when making physical contact with your or push him or her away with a rebuff because you are nervous. This will create misunderstanding. DON’T expect a new parrot to understand you or vice versa overnight. If you buy an older bird it can take several years to reach a point where you and your bird are in harmony all the time. This is why buying the youngest bird available is so worthwhile. DON’T overload your pet with too much attention and then diminish your attention. This is the most common and worst mistake a new owner can make. Never think your bird will not notice the difference. These birds are smart cookies! DON’T try to force your pet bird into situations with which it is

uncomfortable, such as a cage it obviously dislikes. Some birds will cling obstinately to old scruffy cages even if you buy a smart new one. A parrot’s cage is its own territory. DON’T expect your new pet bird to entertain visitors. Allow several weeks for your new pet to settle in. DON’T compare your bird with a very talented or well behaved bird owned by someone else you know. Every bird is an individual and you should not expect too much too soon or ignore your own bird’s qualities. DO establish a simple routine for providing what your bird needs and appreciates. DO ensure that you have a suitable person ready, willing and able to take care of your pet bird when you go on holiday. The selection of the right person is so important. Ideally you need at least two suitable people and even better fellow parrot keepers. Holiday time is often the biggest problem for parrot owners. I frequently board parrots in my own home for friends and I feel my own birds learn a great deal from the experience and are very sociable themselves as a result of getting to know our frequent visitors. DO offer the opportunity for good exercise, mental stimulation and fun playtimes for your bird everyday. Try

If you can find a breeder who will allow you to visit a young bird they are hand rearing several times before you actually take possession this is often the best way to select a companion bird. Establishing a rapport in this way is a very good start.

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Feature to ensure that all family members bond with your pet but bear in mind that sometimes parrots are one person birds and do not force your pet to interact with other people if he or she only likes you. DO praise your parrot when he or she behaves well. Many birds will moderate bad behaviour if you studiously ignore them and deny them the eye contact with you, this works much better than raising your voice to give a reprimand. DO select a parrot that is suitable for your own environment. Do you have close neighbours, if so are they animal lovers or will they complain if there is any undue noise? In my own experience small birds can let rip with piercing screeches which are much more irritating than the sounds made by the larger parrots and macaws.

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Budgies, Canaries, Cockatiels, Conures, Finches, Large Parakeets, Lovebirds Parrots , Quail, Small Parakeets, Softbills, Chinchillas, Chipmunks, Degus, Gerbils, Guinea Pigs, Mice, Rabbits, Rats, Tortoise, Hamsters Weavers Coving, Towcester Road, Whittlebury, Northants, NN12 8TD T: +44 (0) 1327 857594 M: 0770 2277 246 (Guy) / 0796 2099 830 (Lee) F: +44 (0) 1327 858965 E: info@skybirds.co.uk W: www.skybirds.co.uk

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ARTICLE BY: Rosemary Low

Mice roofs and bird room construction

ice and rats are extremely resourceful creatures. If there is a way to get into our aviaries and bird rooms, they will find it. This means that waging war on rodents must commence literally before the foundations of the building are laid. In fact it should start with the planning. If you decide to build a wooden bird room or perhaps convert a double garage which is partly constructed from wood, it will be almost impossible to exclude vermin. Gnawing through wood is so easy for mice. Once they enter it will be extremely difficult to exclude them. If you must use timber, take the following precautions: 1. Stand the building on a concrete base. 2. Be aware that insulating the bird room is asking for trouble. Of course it helps to prevent heat loss but it is better to spend a little more on heating the room (if heat is necessary) than living with mice breeding in the cavities between the two walls. I know because this happened to me. After two micefree years, the mice moved in. The

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If you decide to build a wooden bird room or perhaps convert a double garage which is partly constructed from wood, it will be almost impossible to exclude vermin. Gnawing through wood is so easy for mice.

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glasswool insulating material was deemed perfect for mouse nestmaking. The only solution was to rip out the inner wall, including the roof lining, and leave the building permanently without lining. The mice moved out. But that was not the end of the problem. They moved into the other building which was lined, and took up residence in the roof. A nightmare scenario! The patter of feet which I was hearing daily were those of mice. There was no alternative but to take the roof off and construct an entirely new one. That was four years ago and my bird room is now mouse-free. One advantage was that with the new roof I did away with the skylight windows. Its inclusion had been a mistake because it caused condensation to drip from the roof to the floor.

08 42

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3. If you have a wooden building, nail tin plate or aluminium, inside and out, to the height of 1ft (31cm). This precaution will be useless if there are any holes through which mice can enter. Check the point where electricity cables leave the building, cover ventilator and extractor outlets with small mesh and ensure that all doors and windows are tight-fitting. Also remember that if you have popholes to allow your birds access to outdoor flights, mice will enter if they have access to the flights. Welded mesh should be buried around the perimeter of the flights to prevent this. For preference, don’t build a bird room from wood. Brick is much more expensive but if you can afford it, brick or breeze blocks are ideal materials. You might also consider obtaining,

Feature second-hand, the kind of prefabricated cabins which are used on building sites, for example. As long as there is no wood in their construction! Precautions If you have outdoor aviaries and you feed your birds in the flight part, mice will be almost impossible to eliminate. You might also attract rats. To protect food and water from vermin, weather and the droppings of wild birds (increasing the likelihood of disease being transmitted), it is essential to have an indoor section, either an enclosed shelter or a cage inside a building, where the birds are fed. This increases the length of time it will take mice to find a food supply, although it is not guaranteed to keep them out if wood is used to construct shelter or building. There are other precautions that you can take to discourage mice from finding your garden attractive. If you feed the wild birds, clear up any uneaten food before nightfall. If you keep rabbits or other pets that have a dry food, remove any dry food at night. Finally, do not discourage your neighbour’s cat from visiting your garden at nightfall. Generally speaking, once a cat has discovered it cannot reach the birds in your aviaries, it will lose interest in them - but if there

To protect food and water from vermin, weather and the droppings of wild birds, it is essential to have an indoor section, either an enclosed shelter or a cage inside a building, where the birds are fed. are mice about it will return night after night. I would strongly advise that when planning your aviaries, buy enough welded mesh to double wire all surfaces that are accessible to cats and owls. It might seem like an expensive exercise but this will prevent deaths from injuries by night marauders. Also, with the increase in Sparrowhawks in gardens, it will prevent these pests from attacking your birds. Another tip is to grow climbers such as passionflower, honeysuckle and clematis over the top and sides of the flights. Sparrowhawks are now so numerous, even in city gardens, that every step should be taken to prevent them diving on the aviaries. Even if they cannot reach the birds, the shock can cause birds to desert eggs or young. Eliminating mice The trap is the most environmentally friendly form of elimination. But does it work? At the risk of displeasing mouse trap manufacturers, I have to

Another tip is to grow climbers such as passionflower, honeysuckle and clematis over the top and sides of the flights. Sparrowhawks are now so numerous, even in city gardens, that every step should be taken to prevent them diving on the aviaries. Even if they cannot reach the birds, the shock can cause birds to desert eggs or young.

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I look on poison as a last resort. However, to deal with rats and, in some situations, with mice, there seems to be no alternative. The mouse poison which you can buy in a hardware store is unlikely to be effective over the long term, since mice will eventually become immune to it. say that I have never caught a single mouse in the metal traps that catch mice alive. I am told that wooden ones are more successful. Obviously traps can be used only in bird rooms where there are no birds loose. They can be used in aviaries only if they can be placed inside a box and if no small birds are present which could enter the box. The traditional type of spring trap, usually baited with cheese, can be successful - assuming you are not squeamish about removing victims. Note also that mice absolutely love chocolate and this can be the best bait of all. Be warned that some very cheap wooden spring traps are almost impossible to set. I once tried a plastic spring-trap which was very easy to set. I soon found it had a major disadvantage. The spring was not strong enough. The mice would be trapped but not killed. I found mice trapped by the tail or the foot and being too soft-hearted to see any animal suffer, I would release these victims alive. The newspapers often feature advertisements for ultrasonic mouse deterrents. I have not tried them since

I have been assured by two people who have that they are not effective. Members’ experiences on this method would be welcome. The obvious alternative to traps is poison. I greatly dislike the use of poison since it can get into the food chain and because death is not swift. Presumably it could also poison a cat if a cat caught a mouse which had eaten poison. I look on poison as a last resort. However, to deal with rats and, in some situations, with mice, there seems to be no alternative. The mouse poison which you can buy in a hardware store is unlikely to be effective over the long term, since mice will eventually become immune to it. It is therefore advisable to contact the vermin control department of the local council. On one occasion I saw a rat in my garden and a very helpful man from the Council arrived with some blocks of poison placed inside small cardboard cartons. There is no charge for this service. If you as much as catch a glimpse of a rat, call the council immediately. Do not leave nestboxes in position in outdoor aviaries all year unless you close the entrance by nailing wood over it. If a rat enters the

Do not leave nest-boxes in position in outdoor aviaries all year unless you close the entrance by nailing wood over it. If a rat enters the aviary and finds a bird roosting inside, it will kill it and you are likely to find a headless victim.

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Feature aviary and finds a bird roosting inside, it will kill it and you are likely to find a headless victim. If you place mouse poison in your bird room, don’t think all you have to do is to put it in a suitable place and wait for the mouse population to crash. Now your work begins. On the first and succeeding nights of poison use in a bird room, sweep the floor, clean the cage trays, etc, and remove every food container. If they can feed on seed, they will not take the poison. Mice are so resourceful that they can learn to feed during the day but offering them only poison at night will usually solve the problem.

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