Ready for collections?

Our cup runneth over, as beloved fragrance houses and new names unveil themed collections. Presenting us with our kinda problem: which to try first…?

Amouage Odyssey Escape

Embracing the urge for transformation and self-discovery, this collection provides Escape routes via four utterly unique frankincense-centric scents: Search, Lineage, Purpose and Guidance.

£320 for 100ml eau de parfum amouage.com

▼ GRACE DE MONACO

Founded on the principles of luxuryfor-good, 100% of profits go to the Princess Grace Foundation, supporting emerging arts students. Chic, contemporary and destined to be modern classics.

From £220 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com

▲ MONCLER LES SOMMETS

The unique characteristics of different woods inspire four genderless fragrances in wonderfully apothecarystyle bottles, from world-class noses Fabrice Pellegrin, Nathalie Lorson, Ane Ayo, Antoine Maisondieu and Daniela Andrier.

£257 for 200ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

▼ THAMEEN LONDON FANFARE

Under the artistic residency of Christopher Chong, Thameen London launch the first of a Covent Garden ‘Britologne’ (British/Cologne) collection, with perfumer Bruno Jovanovic infusing ‘decadent, deep and daring facets’ into a fabulous, fresh and flowertastic composition. £250 for 100ml Cologne elixir selfridges.com

▼ THE MERCHANT OF VENICE MRANO ART COLLECTION

Two of Venice’s precious art forms –Murano glass-making and perfumery – are brought together in three Extraits de Parfum, taking olfactory inspiration from oudh and leather. £180 for 30ml extrait de parfum fortnumandmason.com

As ever, perfume mirrors the mood of our time. So, what’s behind the outbreak of scented soul-searching that we’re witnessing, as we embrace the eau-cult? SUZY NIGHTINGALE has the answers

ANEW AGE of mysticism is dawning. Astrology may have originated in Mesopotamia in 3rd millennium BC, and the earliest references to tarot date back to the 1440s. But basing one’s decisions on the alignment of the stars, an arrangement of cards or conferring with mystics are practices that are attracting legions of new ‘seekers’, in a world still suffering the aftershocks of three years in which our home and working lives were turned upside-down. (With a war on our doorstep thrown in, for good measure.)

This morning, for instance, more than 26 million people around the world began their day by consulting the Co-Star astrology app, a service which first launched in 2017, offering insights into how you should behave, what (or whom) you should avoid, and the specific aspects of life you should be focusing on right now. And according to TIME magazine, Co-Star is now being downloaded ‘every three to four seconds.’

In 2023, astrological charts, tarot card sales and psychic readings are most definitely no longer relegated to the ‘hippy fringes’ of society. Together, they have a combined estimated worth of $2.2 billion globally – not least because today, this talismanic trend has been massively boosted via clever use of tech, leading to massive growth of the mystic services market across the generations. A recent report by the trend casting agency WGSN, for

Mystical millennials

Pulse is a trend agency, described as ‘the leading authority on Gen Z and Millennials’, which has been tracking the spiritual practices of these generations for some time. A recent Pulse report states that ‘the pandemic led to a “revival of the occult” across Western Europe as young people turned to astrology, tarot, and other mystical practices to help them cope with the uncertainty of life in COVID times, as well as provide them some new self-care tools and help them fill their idle time.’ Encouragingly, Lisa Miller, a psychologist, and author of The Spiritual Child, reveals that research shows teenagers interested in alterative spiritual connections are 60% less likely to be depressed.

instance, revealed that 62% of Gen Z and 63% of Millennials agreed with the statement their zodiac sign ‘accurately represents their personality traits.’

And when the world shifts, fragrance always shifts with it. So, with astrology, tarot cards and crystal-infused mysticism being embraced by millions, it comes as no surprise to us that the trendwatchers at perfume houses are turning to the ways of divine divination – not only as inspirations for their fragrances, but to guide us towards choosing a perfume that truly connects with our personality. Or, going deeper, our soul.

As a fragrance writer, what personally interests me is just why so many of us are converging at online versions of The Oracle’s temples, in our quest to discover new perfumes. And I find it fascinating to see how fragrance houses are borrowing this mystic movement to offer olfactory enlightenment, promising perfumes that go beyond merely smelling nice, to somehow matching your soul.

Now, I should admit the first expert I consulted for an insight into this societal-slash-scent shift wasn’t exactly difficult to track down. Jan, a professional clairvoyant for nearly 50 years, was sitting downstairs in the living room, in fact, and happens to be my mother. And though tarot and birth charts are trending for younger generations, astrological terminology and divinations were as much part of my childhood as Angel Delight and Dairylea Triangles.

Reading out the figures of that Millennial/Gen Z survey, I asked Mum why she thought young people were increasingly turning to ancient ways of seeking answers. ‘They need something in their lives that gives them more hope and faith in the future,’ she smiled. ‘Today, more than ever, it seems people are looking for some form of guidance, and both astrology and tarot have the benefit of being untainted by some of the negative aspects of religion. They can also give immediate answers – and when we’re young, we can often be a bit impatient,’ came the sage reply.

For my next expert, I ventured a little further afield than my own home. Shelley Von Strunckel is famed for having written about astrology for over three decades, in publications that include Vogue, The Sunday Times and newspapers across four continents, as well as offering individual predictions via her fascinating website (see p.19). So just why, I asked Shelley, are we observing an astrological – indeed, mystical – renaissance, right now?

As she sees it, while astrology once ‘…described a fixed, non-negotiable destiny, today that is shifting.’ Astrology’s emphasis now is on our ‘increasing capacity to shape our thoughts, and wellbeing.’

‘The whole “plague” thing is receding,’ Shelley muses, ‘but as it does, the world is finding itself longing for something deeper. After medical and social disruption, we’re now revisiting our inner worlds, and the ways they connect.’

For many of us, Shelley continues, ‘astrology is a link to those feelings and the archetypical awareness that, in this period of enforced reflection, we’ve all come to know – at least a little. And now, it’s time to embrace it.’ Says Shelley: ‘Yes, the past years’ challenges are ending. It’s a relief. But it leaves us with a gap: if we’re no longer struggling, than what should we focus on? That disarming stillness is offering a rare opportunity – now, before we “get busy” again – to get to know ourselves once more.’

For months, now, The Perfume Society has had mystic-vibed press releases landing on our desks with ever greater frequency – not simply sharing news of fragrance launches, but also inviting us to experience very different and arcane methods to steer us to new fragrance loves. personal truth.’ Thus, explains Joy, ‘Our Archetype cards invite you to uncover symbolic imagery that reflect inherent energies – patterns that are common to us all.’

Joy Isaacs is the founder and CEO of ARgENTUM, a luxury skincare brand which recently launched a range of stunning fragrances based on soul-searching, tarot-inspired ‘Archetypes’.

Using beautiful black-and-white illustrations by artist Sam Gray, ARgENTUM’s 12 cards are shuffled and used as part of a ‘fragrance reading’, whereby – rather than randomly picking a perfume – the fragrance finds you. This initial scent-matching isn’t set in stone; it’s used merely as a starting point, a way of editing down your possible fragrance choices to a more manageable number, while also making you think more deeply about them. (For those who can’t make it in person to ARgENTUM’s Notting Hill boutique – which is honestly worthy of a pilgrimage –the experience has been skilfully recreated on their website.)

Although she’s been fascinated by tarot and its symbolism since 2010, Joy insists: ‘I don’t think it’s some magical oracle in the sky.’ Instead, she believes ‘…we all hold our truth buried in our subconscious and are willing to project it onto many things – for example, people, life circumstances, poetry, music and of course, imagery (art). It allows us to tap into what is just below the surface and access what is really going on – with our own

LEGEND HAS IT that

before he became famous, the artist, ballet dancer, designer and all-round creative visionary Manfred Thierry Mugler once visited a fortune teller. So, the story goes, she gazed intently at his palm and noted the lines formed a star. She told him to incorporate the shape in all his designs to ensure his success, he did as she suggested and, well, the rest is history.

Tarot also happens to be the theme of Mendittorosa’s LE MAT, the new ‘Talisman’ pocket-size of which comes with an original Marseilles Tarot card. As they explain: ‘We must turn over cards and accept fate, walk forward into new futures, lives and loves. We may not have all the tools for survival, but we have hope and defiance.’

Yasmin Sewell’s wearable goodvibes fragrance house Vyrao also embodies this current mood of mysticism. ‘I believe we are moving into an Age of Consciousness,’ this founder says, convinced that this will influence consumer spending. It’s no longer enough to proffer a perfume and say you should want it because it’s new, has sexy imagery or promises to make you popular; increasingly, we’re seeking scents which, like Vyrao’s, incite self-analysis and introspection.

‘Our awareness of the physical, emotional and the spiritual will grow and define the choices we make, the lives we live, and the brands we love,’ Yasmin says.

Holly Willoughby’s beauty and fragrance lifestyle house Wylde Moon also welcomes visitors with a plethora of esoteric content and information on the meanings of moon phases, crystals, and

ABOVE: esoteric content from Holly Willboughby’s Wylde Moon fragrance and beauty website astrology, and ways they can apply these to their own lives. ‘The New Moon phase is synonymous with fresh starts, limitless possibility and rejuvenation,’ is just one example of Wylde Moon’s online communication. ‘This offers the perfect opportunity to reflect on what has passed, learn from it and put it behind you, as you refresh and begin again…’

But it isn’t only niche houses offering occult content and creations. Mysticism throbs through the heart of Viktor&Rolf’s latest blockbuster perfume Good Fortune, described by the house as ‘the embodiment of a new positive lifestyle, an olfactive manifesto for spirituality and self-potential, bringing you the power to create your own destiny,’ further reminding us that ‘Destiny is not a matter of chance, it’s a matter of choice.’

The striking purple bottle itself resembles a crystal scrying ball, the ad campaign features young British singer/songwriter FKA Twigs dressed as a fortune teller, while their website offers a ‘Tarot Card Experience’ to enhance your exploration of the scent.

Another house presenting their profiling session as prophesy is Penhaligon’s. Over the years, they have specialised in quirky online scent matching games, but fascinatingly this latest is… yes, tarot themed. Visitors to the website are invited to click on virtual cards relating to aspects of their

Spellbinding Scents

1 VYRAO Witchy Woo

Summoning courage and creativity via simmering roses (thorns and all), the cinnamon, nutmeg and pepper weave a spiced cloak of calming protection.

2 ARGENTUM Magician personality – do they see themselves as Adventurous, Captivating, FunLoving or Dapper, for example? – with further choices drilling down into their style, preference of cocktail garnishes and the ‘Spirit Animal’ they most connect with.

Inviting you to ‘take the dare’, clove bud and chilli-flecked incense curls skyward while myrrh, sticky labdanum and cedar evoke ancient, healing balms.

Finally, a spread of three cards reveals the fragrances that best

3 VIKTOR&ROLF Good Fortune Fennel seeds were chewed by soldiers to grant courage in battle; here the fronds entwine with enlivening gentian, radiant jasmine, and soothing vanilla. Onwards!

4 ERIS PARFUMS

Scorpio Rising

Smouldering woods and swirls of incense cool to the caress of cardamom, a kiss of Cashmeran on bare skin, and a lengthy trail (but no sting in the tail).

5 INITIO Mystic Experience

Golden amber drips into dark coffee, billowing oakmoss and a nuzzle of beguiling muskiness. The house says the scent will ‘boost your magnetism.’ We believe.

6 PENHALIGON’S Luna match their answers; but ‘Your good fortune doesn’t stop here’ – for Penhaligon’s have further insights, where you can ‘Discover scented delights from our other collections, cocktail recipes and Spotify playlists cultivated to your specific tastes, and more besides.’

Best put it to the test, I reasoned. And – what do you know? – my ‘reading’ proffered two perfumes I already knew and loved (the bright fizz of Juniper Sling and creamy comfort of Lothair), plus one I hadn’t tried but have since smelled in-store and fallen for hard (the vetiver/

A moon-bathed goddess slinks her way in a silver robe through a jasmine-swagged fairy-tale forest, her luminescent glow piercing the mist of ambergris.

7 AMOUAGE Guidance

Inspired by Middle Eastern myths of spirits guiding ships safely to shore; pear, saffron-sprinkled almond milk and rose petals purr through frankincense plumes.

Spellbinding Scents

8 A LA LUNE Moonlight Cypress

Respecting pilgrims seeking Tibetan purity, sacred sage and boughs of juniper are trembling tributes at midnight temples, a shiver of musk sighs hopefully.

9 JULIETTE HAS A GUN Ego Stratis

Awakening to possibilities, juicy citrus quenches the senses before diving into unknown waters. Salt spray clings, a second skin, second chances, a re-birth.

10 ELEMENTALS Qìan

Soothing as a comfort blanket, violet leaf, rose oil and tolu balsam are a balm for troubled souls; this scent an homage to humility, simplicity, harmony.

11 MEMOIZE Ego

The sharp surprise of tart blackcurrant suddenly swaddled in fig leaf, coolly lapped by coconut milk, a gradual acclimatisation to the temptations of tonka.

12 NANCY MEILAND Gaia

Used ‘to hold and uplift in times of transformation’ this perfumed paean to nature’s goddess whispers woodiness, while blue lotus swathes, nutmeg nurtures.

13 EDENISTE Love Lifeboost™

Crushed cherries, red berries and creamy almond represent love in all its forms, ‘a gesture of scented self-care’, and a reminder that scented rituals run deep.

14 MAISON NOIR Alter Ego

The aesthetic of a mysterious hotel where rooms (scent choices) explore your potentials. Here, raspberry, leather and mineralic breezes suggest seduction.

ABOVE: Penhaligon’s perfume prophecies help customers to feel understood as individuals incense-infused William Penhaligon, named for the founder himself).

While of course not always being 100% accurate, such guided sessions are a great way to hold the virtual hand of a scent-seeker who may otherwise be overwhelmed by the choices available. These personalised fragrant ‘readings’ do more than say ‘buy this’; they make someone looking for a new perfume feel understood as an individual. What these houses are really saying questions, Juliette Has a Gun’s new aquatic, genderless Cologne, Ego Stratis, for example, invites the wearer ‘to explore the multiple facets of one’s ego’, bearing the motto: ‘I am not one, I am many’. is: ‘We get you’. And rather than picking out a perfume based on what’s fashionable or that everyone else is wearing, these personalitydriven ways of discovering fragrance allow for individuality and invite introspection.

This can be seen in another emerging trend we’re seeing this year, which sits alongside the more overtly mystical scents, and might be termed ‘perfumed philosophising.’ Encouraging the wearer to look deep within

Memoize EGO, meanwhile, seeks ‘the essence of identity, the content of your character, the solution, the key.’ Likening the development of the potent green fig and piquant cassis fragrance warming on your skin to the idea of your own personal blooming, Memoize says this is ‘the true meaning of “you”, expressing the hope ‘that this moment may mark the awakening of who you are, who you will become – the true definition of “I”.’ Something we’re all surely seeking, as our lives reshape.

And looking around, has there ever been a better time to celebrate a new you and find fragrances that reflect every aspect of your soul? Enjoying this welcome time for self-exploration – along divine, perfumed pathways.

* Personal Astrological Reports, including Year Ahead and Relationship guides, are available to order from shelleyvonstrunckel.com