11 minute read
CHEAP EATS
Cheap Eats
ARE YOU A GLUTTON FOR TONGUISHMENT? KC’S SWEETS, TREATS, AND MEATS GOT YOU COVERED
Advertisement
By Ivy Anderegg, Jordan Baranowski, Lauren Textor, and Grace Wilmot. Photos by Zach Bauman
Food is one of the simplest pleasures of life. We turn to food for comfort, community, and basic nourishment. Sometimes, though, you just want to shove something greasy and delicious down your gullet without regard to its nutritional value. Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered: The Pitch staff rounded up our favorite dives and holes-in-the-wall across around the metro. Next time you get a hankering for something quick, inexpensive, sinfully deep-fried, or dripping with cheese, try out one of these locally-owned options.
New Chinatown (Mission)
Take pride in your cravings and enjoy a meal with some mileage. New Chinatown prides itself on its fresh ingredients and generous
Pizza Tascio (various locations)
Say it with us: “Two slices and a drink for $10.” That’s the go-to combo order at this NYstyle pizza shop that is expanding like crazy. Their orig inal location in North Kansas City opened at the beginning of 2022, and they already have four additional spots. Look for them in Overland Park, Lawrence, St. Joe, and in the 39th Street area. Of course, what a person orders on their pizza is a deeply spiritual and personal choice—just know Pizza Tascio will serve up a per fect, NY-style crust that’s crisp on the bottom but fluffy and chewy throughout. If you need a recommendation, we’ve got two: the spicy pepperoni has a balanced sweet-heat kick, and the white broccoli is a remarkably tasty meatless option.
Ssong’s Hotdog (Overland Park)
It’s hard to be one-and-done at Ssong’s. Unlike American corn dogs, the Korean equivalents are battered in rice flour or yeasted dough, which gives them a slightly sweet taste that will have you coming back for bite after bite. From the Sausage Rice Cake skewer to the Spicy Seaweed Spring Roll, no option will leave you un-filled for $9 or under. If you manage to save room for dessert, the Hotteok (Korean Sweet Pancakes) or the Sesame Balls will finish you off. Make sure you don’t drive past it—the sign outside reads K Street Hotdog.
Mediterranean Market (Westport)
While Kansas City may be slim in its bodega-style offerings, this combination market and hot-food counter provide all the convenience of specialized cuisine in one package. You can order lunch and shop the shelves for teas, spices, and other specialized items for your at-home cooking endeavors while you wait. The market’s $8 Chicken Shawarma wrap pairs perfectly with a side of seasoned fries for only $3 for an easy experience on your wallet. Vegetarians need not worry, this shop specializes in affordable cuisine to match your palate as well—with the Falafel & Hummus wrap running $7, it’s a cheap bite you won’t want to miss. Better yet— they offer delivery, too.
Tacos El Tio (KCK)
Perched on the corner of Reynolds and N 10th in KCK, Tacos El Tio is a small and buzzing neighborhood joint serving tacos that could bring you to tears. Upon being seated, you are greeted with a plate of roasted onion, jalapeño, and crisp cucumber slices as a preview of what is to come. And what is that? Juicy, vibrant pastor. Chorizo. Asada. Gorgeously fatty carnitas. The beautiful melange of flank steak, chorizo, and chicharrones that is campechano, in heaping piles over soft corn tortillas, sprinkled with finely chopped red onion and cilantro and served alongside wedged lime, salsa verde, red hot salsa, and guacamole salsa. We’re sweating just thinking about it. Their staff provides attentive service (and a bit of entertainment, as they briefly sing over the sizzling and chopping of a fragrant sofrito). It’s super affordable, but you must stop by the ATM first—it’s cash only.
District Biskuits (North KC)
District Biskuits is yet another cozy little KC joint serving up pillowy biscuits and gravy with the perfect kick of cayenne. The staff and clientele exchange superb energy, particularly on the morning preceding the Super Bowl. R&B, migrating sunlight from their south-facing windows, and drip coffee warm the interior. Place your order and settle in for a moment to develop your appetite because you’re going to need it. First off, their fried potatoes are insane. They’re battered and seasoned with salt and sugar, so they’re chewy (like mochi level) and crispy and unlike any fried potato you’ve had before. Their decadent biscuit sandwiches incorporate melty American cheese and sweet and savory combinations like bacon jam and caramelized onions or Nashville hot fried chicken and hot honey butter. Their flavors pull inspiration from various KC districts, hence District Biskuits—true KC pride.
Max’s Burgers & Gyros (Waldo)
Any burger joint with a black-and-white checkered floor is bound to have locals calling it a “classic,” and Max’s is no different. You can tell it’s good because the business has only one Tweet on its account from 2010—the food speaks for itself. Whether you get a burger or a gyro (or a Polynesian chicken sandwich, but that’s cheating), you’ll be wowed by the freshness of the meat and the quaint surroundings of abandoned strip malls. The Big Max Combo and the Gyro Combo cost $10.69 for a handheld, with a choice of fries (curly or regular) or tots and a drink. For dessert, try the menu’s best and only offering: baklava.
Town Topic (Crossroads)
Okay, Town Topic is not a secret dive you can “discover” on Yelp. But it bears repeating: you will not find better hangover food. Open 24 hours, seven days a week, Town Topic has been cranking out burgers for hun gry Kansas Citians for over 75 years. If you’re feeling hangry but not enough to ruin your dinner, then a thick, hand-mixed shake and fries will cure you. If you’re feeling the winter blues, the homemade chili will soothe you. Anywhere that has a designated night menu is going to fix you right up. Don’t second-guess yourself. Follow the neon sign.
Breit’s Stein & Deli (Strawberry Hill)
We love a joint that finds a few menu items to do just right, and Breit’s Stein & Deli in Strawberry Hill nails it. This old-school dive offers three specialty sandwiches: Reuben, Italian sub (served cold or steamed), and braunschweiger. You can also customize a deli sandwich from a choice of meats, cheeses, and bread. Regardless, you’ll pay just over $5 for a sandwich and $1.50 for a side. We recommend the Reuben—they don’t skimp on the corned beef, the kraut and Thousand Island dressing have great bite, and the melty cheese and grilled rye bread offer some excellent texture. You can’t go wrong with any of their sides, and the staff is super friendly. Pull up a seat at the counter and enjoy the feast.
Wiener Wagon (Overland Park)
The Chicago versus Coney Island dog debate is tired. Put it to rest with one bite of the premium sausage at the Wiener Wagon, located on West 87th Street in Overland Park. All of its offerings are under $10, except for the Green, Eggs, and Hen breakfast served until 10 a.m. If you’re looking for somewhere to start on the limited but motley menu, go with the Chorizo Rojo. It’s topped with onion-jalapeño relish and a cilantro-lime aioli that you’ll enjoy even if you have the unfortunate gene that makes the herb taste soapy.
Jim’s Alley Bar (Crossroads)
Neighborhood bars have been a longstanding fixture in the realm of cheap dining fare. However, the challenge to remain affordable and tasty in growing areas like the Crossroads has caused a slow degeneration of high-quality offerings. Opening just a few months ago, Jim’s Alley Bar has brought a homey feel to this eclectic pocket of KC. Brick walls, warm lighting, and family photographs adorned on the walls create a welcoming space akin to a basement gathering of close friends. Generous portions and exceptionally good bar bites are a-plenty here, and they serve classic dishes that would make ol’
El Pollo Rey (Armourdale)
In the land of barbecue, El Pollo Rey stands out with its wood-fired chicken that stacks up against KC favorites. The restaurant’s simple menu is comprised of its premiere ingredient: chicken. Indecision begone as diners may opt for a half chicken for $7 or a whole chicken for $13. How easy is that? Each meal is served with a side of corn tortillas, salsa, beans, and rice, with more than enough to go around if you dine in a pair. Don’t let the no-frills dining experience fool you, the luxury is in the taste. Enjoy your chicken while sipping on Jarritos for a truly magical flavor experience.
Slap’s BBQ (KCK)
Learning a Kansas Citian’s favorite barbecue spot is a big ask—on any given day, the answer could change. However, you’re likely to find several locals who swear by Slap’s BBQ in Strawberry Hill. The restaurant came about after a successful run of BBQ competitions by the Pearce brothers. Slap’s isn’t “cheap” in the grand scheme of things, but the quality of their meats, sandwiches, and sides punch beyond their prices, especially compared to some of the other “KC’s best barbecue” contenders. Their burnt ends are some of the best you’ll find in town, and all their sandwiches are dynamite. Try the Mike Johnson sandwich if you like a little heat—the jalapeno-cheddar sausage and hot sauce are nicely balanced with sweetness. “The Sandwich” is also a no-brainer—provel cheese can be an instant turnoff, but it works perfectly on this guy. As far as sides go, can we direct your attention to… all of them? BBQ keeps well; you’ll want leftovers anyway.
Tay’s Burger Shack (North KC)
Runner up to Town Topic for hangover food, Tay’s Burger Shack in North KC offers a bit more seating, an amazingly pristine interior—sans the vaporized burger grease that permeates the air (that’s part of the appeal, no?)—and their signature orange drink reminiscent of a mellow Hi-C. Their refreshingly limited menu features hot dogs, chili dogs, and their classic smash patties with perfectly charred, crispy edges. They’re offered as singles, doubles, triples, and 1 lb “home runs” for those unafraid of indigestion (you really might have to run home). Tomatoes, lettuce, pickles, and your choice of raw or grilled onion (the latter being the superior, of course) cut through the salty, greasy umami in such a way that you cannot put the burger down for longer than a breath, and their fries—perfectly thick and coated in a generous sprinkle of sugar and spices—are equally addictive.
Kitty’s Cafe (East 31st St.)
This 31st Street institution has been around since 1951, and it made the New York Times 2022 list of the best restaurants in the country. Basically, if you live in KC and haven’t tried it, you need to fix that. Make sure you come prepared: Kitty’s Cafe is open until 5 p.m. on weekdays and 3 p.m. on Saturdays, and they only accept cash. As you approach, you can smell that tenderloin goodness. Don’t be daunted if you see a long line—the simple menu makes turnaround pretty snappy. Everything here is good, but the tenderloin sandwiches are the stars of the show. Rather than a massive, thin patty that stretches well past the bun, Kitty’s features smaller, stacked patties for their tenderloin sandwiches. The extra crunch and big flavor from this choice are the key to what makes Kitty’s so good. Get the pork tenderloin—it comes with Kitty’s homemade hot sauce—and some tater tots. It’ll cost you a little over $10, and you can probably get by the rest of the day without another meal.
