7 minute read
WOMEN IN THE CULINARY WORLD
Despite there being multiple Michelin starred and top Executive female Chefs across the globe, women are often underrepresented in this space. Here, Anne Laure Morisset Dutel, Executive Chef at La Serre Bistro & Boulangerie, and Chef, Food Writer, Restaurateur and Television Personality Silvena Rowe, who helms Nassau, Jumeirah Golf Estates (JGE), weigh in on the challenges and rewards of being a woman in a male-dominated field
“I got into this field because I was always at my happiest when I was with my family, cooking in the kitchen - there is no feeling like it in the world,” says Chef Anne Laure, whose current role includes the development of menus and kitchens across the Lincoln Hospitality group in Dubai, while also taking the lead on the international expansion of their franchises. “Pure greed for food,” says Chef Silvena, “As a little girl, I would constantly think about food, its various colours and textures. All my holiday postcards were solely about the food eaten while holidaying and it was very early on that I understood the power of food.”
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Chef Silvena Rowe has been in the F&B industry for over 33 years, donning multiple hats. She is known to be one of the few female global MasterChef judges, has authored eight cookbooks, conceptualised Omnia Gourmet, Al Botanica and Nassau at JGE, and has recently partnered with Spinneys Middle East to create a range of healthy savoury and sweet food products. Chef Silvena has always prioritised women in the industry, ensuring her kitchens have at least 30 per cent female chefs; and at one point, her whole pastry kitchen was made up entirely of women.
“Professional chefs’ lives are tough, with long hours, mentally and physically exhausting, which is not the right choice for most women,” says Chef Silvena. When asked about the disparity in numbers between female and male chefs, Chef Anne Laure replies, “it is a social issue and not just consigned to kitchens. The same thing happens in boardrooms and in
- Chef Silvena Rowe
every company across the globe, not just in the hospitality industry.”
What is the reality of being a female chef in a male-dominated industry? “To be honest, a lot has been made of the male-dominated industry that we as female chefs work in,” says Chef Anne Laure, who previously worked at Michelin star restaurants in the South of France. “I strongly believe that talent, not gender, will always shine through. I’m not saying it’s easy, however it drove me to work hard and to be the best at everything I do - from when I started as a trainee to my current role, it drives me every day to excel.” Chef Silvena declares “It is hard! There is still inequality.” That said, she agrees that the rewards of making it big in the male-dominated environment are great and she urges more women to join this field.
When questioned about their first experience in the kitchen, Chef Anne Laure states her experience as a trainee was like being in the army. “You follow orders and do what needs
- Chef Anne Laure
to be done.” She also wasn’t treated any differently from her male counterparts. “Michelin star kitchens don’t see anything but the end product, which is the dish plated perfectly no matter what you have to do to get there.” Chef Silvena’s experience was rather different. “Even today, when a deal is on the table for restaurant development, a male chef will often get better financially rewarded.” The chef admits she has had some incredible experiences too. “I personally have been very fortunate. Working with local Emiratis has been the best experience, with total respect and acknowledgement of my talent and experience. It is the Western colleagues who have to start treating female chefs on equal footing,” she says.
So what is life in the kitchen like? “Everyone has this picture of chefs screaming on ‘the pass’. It’s not always like that, in fact it’s rarely like that,” says Chef Anne Laure, who discloses she used every challenge to learn and improve herself.
Both chefs also had words of wisdom for up-and-coming female chefs. “The kitchen is a hard environment but at the same time, the most creative place. A woman thrives in a kitchen, naturally! Women are full of warmth, affection and passion, as life-givers! Enjoy and thrive,” says Chef Silvena. Chef Anna Laure adds, “it won’t be easy. Trust your knowledge, learn and develop, and push yourself every day. I would say that any young chef out there should not take anything personally and should soak up as much information through experience as possible.”
CEO TALK
Walid Hajj, Co-Founder and CEO of Kitch, takes us through Cloud Kitchens, industry disruption and what’s in store for the future
Co-founded by Walid Hajj and Saudi entrepreneur Fahad Alhokair in 2020, Kitch is a privately owned, hybrid, deliveryfocused cloud kitchen and premium store-front operator in Saudi Arabia and the UAE. Walid Hajj has over two decades of hands-on expertise in food services and related businesses, with the founding of Cravia, one of the region’s leading food and hospitality groups that brought world-class franchises to the Middle East, including Zaatar W Zeit, Five Guys, Cinnabon and Seattle's Best Coffee. Prior to establishing Cravia, Walid was a Brand Manager at Procter & Gamble for two years and Vice President of Operations for his family business, United Group, in Saudi Arabia.
How has Kitch disrupted the cloud kitchen concept?
Capitalising on huge advancement of technology application in the industry and more importantly the sharp rise in delivery aggregators and the convenience they offer end consumers, Cloud Kitchens are perfectly fit to be an integral part of the fabric of the F&B space. At Kitch, however, we also believe that the brick & mortar part of the business will not die. Guests will still want to go out and enjoy the overall experience, and some brands will require the “flagship” presence. As a result, we are operating on a hybrid approach covering both parallels of the industry.
How are cloud kitchens shaping the future of restaurant franchising?
Cloud Kitchens are the new agent of growth for restaurants in general. With the recent disruption in the industry, Cloud Kitchens allow restaurants to grow quicker, cheaper and build their brands in record times, which was unheard of before. Just compare the three to five months it used to take to build a store previously, to the two weeks it takes for a brand to be on-boarded in a cloud kitchen. Compare also the cost involved in both. With delivery taking over the majority of business, you can be up and running in no time, and still achieve huge top line results. This is the opportunity for everyone involved in this value chain and Kitch intends to be a key player in it.
What’s in store for the future?
Frankly, no one knows. I lived through 20 years of the restaurant industry being stagnant, and with little change, just to see massive disruption that shook everyone involved. What I can tell you is technology is here to stay and the changes are permanent. I am a big believer, however, that we will never live in a fully virtual world. We will still want to go out and eat and have the full experience.
What does work–life balance look like?
To me, balance is not about dedicating certain hours a day for work, family and yourself, because work, especially when you start a business, takes over everything - when you are home, with your kids and even when you are sleeping. Balance to me is to ensure that whatever you are doing, is keeping you happy and sane. The excitement behind starting a new business, and the beautiful chaos of a start-up keeps me very fulfilled and content. When I feel that, I know I am able to give my family what they deserve in terms of quality time and attention, and to also ensure that I try to look after myself whether it is through sports or selfdevelopment.