“THE SECRET OF INNOVATION HAS TO START FROM OUR PAST, FROM OUR HERITAGE”

"THE SECRET OF INNOVATION HAS TO START FROM OUR PAST, FROM OUR HERITAGE"

Executive Chef Norbert Niederkofler discusses sustainable gastronomy while preserving cultural heritage

Three Michelin-starred chef Norbert Niederkofler is hailed for his innovative and ethical approach to gastronomy, whilst delivering sustainable creations with an artistic edge. Born and raised in Lutago, Northern Italy, chef Norbert connected with the rhythm of the seasons from a young age, respecting nature and its bountiful produce. Chef Nobert travelled across Europe to pursue culinary training, working in London, Zurich and Munich, among other cities. It was his experience in New York with celebrated American chef and restaurateur, David Bouley, where he learned the secrets of innovation, that allowed him to tap into his renowned style of cooking.

Upon returning to Italy, chef Norbert joined Rosa Alpina and opened St. Hubertus Restaurant in 1996. Launching the ‘Cook the Mountain’ concept, the menu uses ingredients sourced within the restaurants’ vicinity in an environmentally conscious practice that supports local farmers in the Dolomite Mountains. This creative concept led the restaurant to secure its first Michelin Star in 2000, with the second following in 2007 and the third star in 2017.

Now based at Aman Venice, chef Norbert is conducting a series of dinner events showcasing fresh produce sourced from the shores of the Floating City. Accompanied by the hotel’s executive chef, the six-course ‘Cook the Lagoon’-themed tasting menu is set in the atmospheric setting of Aman Venice’s Palazzo. Here Chef Norbert shares his philosophy and culinary journey

Talk to us about ethical cuisine.

Why sustainable gastronomy?

Ever since I was a child, I have always had a rebellious curiosity, the same that made me want to explore, see and understand the how and the why of things. Being away from home for so long has led me to rediscover my roots, my land and how to give value to the raw material. When Thomas, my first child, was born, I started to look at the world with different eyes.

Sustainability would become the principle with which to change my way of cooking and the “Cook The Mountain” concept was born. A concept of how mountain cooking can contribute to the sustainable growth of the entire planet along with the principle of no waste. The goal for St Herbertus is to assign a distinct culinary identity and change how we approach cooking. It’s at the heart of everything we do.

How did you develop your culinary style and what are your secrets?

The secret of innovation has to start from our past, from our heritage. We start from there to interpret the presence and possibly create a path for the future using the tools which we have available. I started right back to my roots with another eye on current trends such as the rediscovery of the local and respect for biodiversity.

Nature is my natural dispensation. It is based on what nature offers me in a certain period of the year that I start to create my menu. In every dish, I try to represent my mountains, the hard work of farmers and breeders, the quality of their products, traditions handed down, care, consistency and lightness.

Ethical cuisine has different aspects: one is the sustainable sourcing of the products (in our case from the Alpine region). The other is the importance of having an ethical work environment. At the beginning of my career, the atmosphere in the kitchen was harsh and rude and sometimes, pans were flying through the kitchen, and thankfully this is changing. Another important aspect is workload - younger generations are no longer willing to accept extreme pressure, preferring more work-life balance.

Should more chefs honour this path?

I don’t feel it’s my place to judge what others should do or not. Our way of doing things has inspired many young chefs who,

after having worked at St. Hubertus – Rosa Alpina, followed our example of being considerate, respectful and continuing in their own way.

Name a few signature dishes that best represent this cooking ethos.

Our white fish tartare best represents the concept of our culinary philosophy. One of the pillars of this concept is the principle of ‘no-waste’: all parts of the white fish are used, and the scales are also fried, served atop the tartare to give it a crispy texture.

The St. Hubertus restaurant secured a Green Star in 2020. What are your thoughts on this Michelin Guide category?

The Green Star honours our efforts of being sustainable and environmentally friendly. When we got the third Michelin star in the fall of 2017, we were the first restaurant in the world to receive this accolade with such a restrictive philosophy. For example, we do not use olive oil at all. It is impossible to be completely sustainable but also be compliant with the hygienic requirements of a restaurant and hotel.

What does your role as Consultant Chef at Aman Resorts entail?

In 2019, I joined Aman Resorts as Consultant Chef at Aman Venice. In my role - alongside my duties as Executive Chef of St. Hubertus at Rosa Alpina - I collaborate with Chef Matteo Panfilio at Aman Venice, to provide culinary creativity and flair to the hotel’s menus including those of signature restaurant, Arva - Aman’s unique dining concept based on inventive Italian cooking techniques. I have also brought my ‘Cook the Mountain’ philosophy to the shores of Venice, interpreting it to curate a series of dishes and menus themed ‘Cook

If you could travel for a meal, what would it be, where and why?

The best meal is served at home by my wife Christine. She is an excellent chef and food tastes better when you eat it with your family.

the Lagoon’, while also incorporating it into an enhanced menu for Arva restaurant. Following the success of this relationship, in February 2021, a further partnership was announced between Aman and me, to minimize the environmental footprint of food and beverage offerings and to drive the culinary concepts across the brand's global constellation of hotels and resorts.

How are you achieving your mission to minimize the environmental footprint for F&B offerings within Aman Group?

Within the partnership with Aman Group, I work with the culinary teams at 34 hotels across 20 destinations to accomplish Aman’s mission of creating a more sustainable approach to gourmet cuisine without compromising on creativity – this inspires the culinary philosophy at Aman globally. My role entails working with the team to create new menus as well as educating each Aman property on zerowaste, so they can contribute to a better future for all through the finest, most sustainable ingredients while supporting producers in local communities. For example, in keeping with Aman Venice’s dedication to sustainability, I work with Chef Matteo to consult with local farmers, fishermen and market traders to source the freshest seasonal produce from the Rialto Market, Venetian lagoon and the city’s islands.

Any special plans for 2022?

To spend more time with my family. The small moments in life are special and give me the most pleasure.