Issue 13: Summer Edition Fukuoka JET Newsletter
The Refill Jamina Ovbude
EDITOR AT LARGE Rebekah Randle
COPY EDITORS Lauren Sakakibara Mary Boscarino
DESIGN AND LAYOUT EDITOR Jamina Ovbude
CONTRIBUTORS Eleanor Taylor Ryan Rosenberg Jamie Mucaria Mandy Hindle Jenn Chan Talia Nagatoshi Brendan Donnelly Hayden Loos Fulin Low Alecs Mickunas Josie Henning Jamina Ovbude Amelia Hagen Olivia Doggett Jody Johnston Lauren Sakakibara Correction: In our Spring issue the surname of Yannick McLeod was misspelled. It is McLeod not McCleod.
THIS PAGE PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/JohnQ.Public, flickr.com/SerenityRose OPPOSITE PAGE PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/shin--k COVER PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/skyseeker
EDITOR IN CHIEF
INSIDE
Issue 13:
Summer Edition 4 THE CORNER
Wisteria’s Gift Small Birds on the Shore, on the Mountaintops
8 IN FUKUOKA Top 10 Benefits to Life in the Inaka Hakata Dontaku: Truly From Fukuoka Top 5 Record Shops in Fukuoka
14 TRAVEL Haircut. Adventure in the Yameyama Islands
18 RECIPES Go-to Grilling Marinades Ridiculously Easy and Heart-Friendly Matcha Tofu Muffins
20 PHOTO JOURNAL 22 SHORT SHORTS Trainspotting: Shinkansen by Numbers
24 LIVING
Editor’s Note Ah, summer. Not only does the season ambush us with mostly unbearable humidity and heat but it also ushers in a significant transition period for our JET readers. Some prepare to leave while others are just beginning a new journey into expat-dom and still others continue to forge through the daily ins and outs of life in Japan just as before. Wherever you might find yourself, I hope that this issue provides a small respite. The summer edition of The Refill includes some fail-proof BBQ marinade recipes, a comprehensive guide to grocery shopping like a Japanese mum, notable quotes from the ever popular Game of Thrones series and more. Special thanks go to departing past contributors. We couldn’t have produced this magazine without your thoughtful words, stimulating artwork and poignant haiku. And to all JETs leaving Japan, good luck and good work!
If I were a Japanese Mum’s Shopping-gu Kato, This is What I’d Carry
おつかれさまでした!
26 ENTERTAINMENT
Jamina Ovbude, Editor in chief
Reviews Events
THE CORNER
Wisteria’s
Gift 4 the refill
Summer 2013
Swollen
leaves hold sway
, pendulous blooms -- Ripe fruit and sunflowers . over
damp
loom
Eleanor Taylor is a second-year ALT living just outside Fukuoka-shi. Although she loves the excitement of living and
working in one of Japan’s largest cities, she’s found that there is nothing quite as invigorating as a quiet night at home with a good book and a warm cup of Earl Grey tea. Summer 2013
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THE CORNER
Small Birds on the Shore, on T
orio doesn’t speak English. He is a thirty-something hairdresser from the city with a slight frame and a broken nose. I can see his nervous face peeking over the rail of the surfboard pressing against my neck as our rental car careens down the highway which tunnels through the mountains of rural Kyushu. I remark how his haircut is conservative for a stylist and how his entire image exudes a childish vanity betrayed by such modest plumage and the bandage between his eyes. Our conversation has long been reduced to single words and disjointed thoughts, not because we are from different cultures, but because we are nothing more than tiny animals compared to the heaving green cliffs surrounding us.
“How ridiculous he looks,” we both think at exactly the same moment. In exasperation, he perches himself on a stone wall and watches the hat drift away against the backdrop of the layered mountain peaks, which, themselves, look like waves painted against a marble canvas.
He gestures with a wing at the ghosts descending from the mountaintops to cover the road in foggy mucus, which traps us in this cage. The fog causes us to feel saturated in a palpable and constricting nuance that neither of us understands, and the confined space puts his frail heart in a state of extreme agitation; I can hear it vibrating like a hummingbird between his ribs. The muffled flurry is periodically interrupted as he shrieks to himself, weaving through traffic with sharp focus. The isolation weighs heavy as he swerves onto the exit ramp, and I clutch the armrest in terror. The beach unfolds after a few more kilometers, and we escape the fog, stepping out of the car into the sunshine and apparent liberty.
When I turn back, the sea is flat and silent. I feel disappointingly empty, rubbing the salt off my arms and scraping my claws against the sand. I head back to the car and sit down, where I find Torio waiting. “Let’s go home.” “But we already are.”
“Shiokaze,” he chirps wistfully, fixating his sunglasses and widebrimmed hat. I run towards the shore, eagerly leaving the cage behind. With the sand between my toes and the cold water around my ankles, I can hear the waves which sound like hollow eggs cracking open in sprays of foam rather than yolk. I float on the sound, feeling light and comfortably alone in the world. But as I look up at the sky, I am unable to escape into it, as if it were pressing against my yearning eyes with invisible, forbidding hands. I twist my legs around to see Torio running after his hat, flapping in the wind. 6 the refill
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In that viridian ocean, I can see bursts of pink flowers blooming in defiant loneliness. Their somber presence seems to ripple outward into that vast and unyielding wilderness, rejecting their nature as they roost in the still-misty folds. Like Torio and I, they remain indifferent to each other as equal, incompatible phenomena in a world that’s too big for them.
the
ountaintops
I can hear the waves which sound like hollow eggs cracking open in sprays of foam rather than yolk.
Ryan Rosenberg, from the Big Island of Hawai’i, circles the city of Fukuoka in a lopsided spiral like so many grotesque and ignoble ravens in the playground behind your house.
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IN FUKUOKA
Top 10 Benefits of Life in the Inaka W
hen I first heard of my placement, I opened a new tab for Wikipedia. My place only had one paragraph about it. I then did a Google map search—the image was basically all green. It was then and there that I knew I would be in a super rural area. You know you are rural when you don’t have a McDonalds, or even a Tsutaya, in your town. I was a little disappointed, but still happy to have gotten my requested prefecture. But now, as I am going on my third year here, I can honestly say I am more than happy in my rural town of Ukiha. So, here are my Top Ten benefits of living in rural towns: 1. It is easy to become part of the community. In a small town, you do not need to try hard to be remembered. It is (almost) always nice to be walking down the street or shopping in a store and have neighbors or acquaintances greet you. This makes it really easy to become a “regular” at some places. 2. The food is great!!! I have heard stories about school lunches that look like they were just defrosted and warmed in a microwave. But in Ukiha, our school lunches are prepared fresh at the school using a lot of ingredients from local farms. Not to mention there are a ton of amazing restaurants in the area with delicious food as well.
6. There is an abundance of green all around. I love to ride my bike around town because just about every route is scenic. It is a great mood booster. It is difficult to stay glum with such beautiful surroundings. 7. There actually are many activities available. At first you would think there is a lack of things to do, but it is actually easy to join in the community. I currently take piano lessons in town and am involved in a town-sponsored Eikaiwa and local karate dojo. The people I have met through these activities always help me and really enjoy interacting with someone not from Japan. 8. There are special town events that you can’t find in a big city. Last week, there was a somen festival. All the noodles are cooked; then they flow down bamboo where many people gather to eat them. We have a firefly festival in late June. Both of these events are free. 9. It is really quiet and peaceful. The first month I moved in, I could not believe how quiet it was at night. There is literally no sound. I don’t wake up from cars or pedestrians going by.
3. The stars are amazing. Having always lived in a suburb of a big city, I have rarely been able to see the stars clearly. No matter how long I keep living here, I am always amazed by the sheer amount of stars glistening in the sky.
10. There is a chance you’ll get a nice apartment. I restate: apartment, not jutaku. The first time I saw my apartment, I was shocked by its size and how nice it was. It is also conveniently located near my school and a train station. Living in a rural area is not a guarantee for a nice apartment or house, but there is a chance.
4. Small town means small schools. Not only is it easy to remember students’ names, but the students feel more comfortable around an ALT that they see often. It is nice to have students greet you at stores or talk to you during lunch break.
So, after overcoming my initial predispositions, I have really come to love living in a rural area. For people living in the cities, try going out one weekend to see a rural area or visit a friend living there. You might be surprised by the hidden gems you find.
5. It is easy to get around by bike. Small towns are just that: small areas. So although Ukiha doesn’t have a ton of public transportation, it is extremely easy to get around with just my bike. It also makes for great exercise.
Jamie Mucaria is a third-year ALT from Michigan
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who lives in Ukiha, which is in between Hita and Kurume. He enjoys his work at the local Junior High and Elementary schools.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/ToddFong
Summer 2013
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IN FUKUOKA
Hakata Dontaku: Truly From Fukuoka They look like de-permed Treasure Trolls or that Pokémon with the stinky flower on its head. Yes, definitely the latter.
T
he group of dancers continues to shimmy down the street in their huge saucer-like flowery hats, oblivious to the musings in my head. In their hands, they have percussion-sticks of some sort, nosily clacking them together. They look a bit like drumsticks? But shorter, and flatter, and… “Are those… rice paddles?” “Yeah, they dance with them. Kind of like Yosakoi.” “…Why do they dance with rice paddles?” “I don’t know. Why does Japan do half of the things it does?” The Hakata Dontaku Minato Matsuri (博多どんたく港祭) is an 800-year old festival that started in 1179 as a New Years’ celebration called the Matsubayashi Festival. It eventually evolved into a festival to welcome guests to Fukuoka Castle during the Edo Period. The Dōrimon parade is said to have been so loud and exciting that even housewives who were in the middle of preparing meals would run out into the streets to dance, rice paddles still in hand. During the Meiji years, the Matsubayashi Festival was outlawed but then restored by the people of Hakata under the name “Dontaku.” The word comes from the Dutch word “Zondag,” which means ‘Sunday,’ or ‘holiday.’ After World War II, the Hakata Dontaku was considered a festival of the people and served to lift spirits. It was at this time that the custom of decorating cars (and regrettably, hats) with bright paper flowers began. During the old Matsubayashi Festival and Dōrimon Parade, people would dress up as colorful auspicious gods and folklore characters, which began the custom of wearing masks. A Niwaka mask has come to mean any mask with strange or comic expressions, but the term “niwaka mask” has a much younger history, originating from the red, rueful-eyed mask made famous by Hakata’s “Niwaka Senbei” cookies.
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“…You want to wear them?” Her voice is amused as she takes back our bag of cookies to dig out the trademark masks that accompany them. She pushes her pair of Niwaka Senbei eyes higher on her brow as she searches for rubber bands in the cash register. Armed with bright red, droopyeyes of our own, we stumble down the streets, running into trees and people alike. The eyeholes in those masks were certainly not designed for practical use. The resulting cheers and encouragement from the locals, however, is a perfect distraction from our stubbed toes and bruised hips as we laugh and zigzag down the sidewalk. Generally, Hakata Dontaku events are cursed with bad weather. This year, however, the sunny weather was pristine. “A sun umbrella for a sunny day?” The young man calls into the sea of spectators who are trying to get a better view of the parade. His seniors, assembled just behind the booth and enjoying an impressive collection of alcohol, look over their shoulders and laugh at the young man’s attempts to lure customers. “How about a coin purse? We have a bunch of--- Oh! HELLO!” “…We’ve been spotted.” “Yep.” A sigh. A smile. “HELLO! WHERE…. COUNTRY?” he beams. “FIRST TIME… JAPAN?” We laugh without slowing our pace as we walk toward the end of the block. “Wait! Um… WHAT …uh, WHAT… are you looking for?” “Imojōchū.” We reply without missing a beat then continue on our way. As if summoned from the deep by the word itself, an older man rises from the Circle of Important Drinkers and gestures grandly toward
the alcohol-laden table. “Imojōchū? We have that! Come and join us! And have a free coin-purse!” The sempai always know how to show the young’uns how it’s done. Of all the festivals during Golden Week, Hakata Dontaku is the largest in the country. Over 700 different dance groups, organizations, marching bands, companies, and cultural representatives from all over the world participate in the parade, bringing the total number of participants to almost 37,000. On top of this, over 2 million people from across the nation come to watch. Groups gather for drinks in parks and on the streets; department stores have big sales; restaurants and pubs are full throughout town; and everyone seems to be in a brighter mood than usual. Laughter rings through the streets, and the sound of rice paddles echoes down alleyways. The celebration lasts well into the night.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: Jamina Ovbude
“Oh, you’ve never been to Dontaku?” my colleague remarks. “In that case, you should go. Everyone should go at least once. You’re not truly from Fukuoka if you’ve never been to Dontaku.” I hum in response as I finish correcting the last of the notebooks on my desk, sitting back to stretch away the numbness in my arms and neck. Golden Week in Japan, huh? Could be fun. “At the very least,” she says, picking up her purse as she heads toward the door, “learn to sing the theme song. It’s about a prostitute. We all learn it when we’re kids.” …I …can’t wait to be considered ‘truly from Fukuoka’…
Cassie Lealamanua
is a fifth-year JET in Kitakyushu who is half-ashamed/half-proud to say she’s going to a roller-skating boy band concert this summer. Summer 2013
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IN FUKUOKA
Top 5 Record Shops in Fukuoka Mandy Hindle explores the underbelly of Fukuoka’s vinyl shopping scene
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F
or many of us, coming to Japan opens up a huge and exciting area of music to discover. From the incomprehensible styling of J-Pop, to an obsession with classic rock and the Beatles, to the slick and stylish Shibuya-kei, Japan loves its music. And as much as they love to play it, they also love to collect it. The trouble is: how do you find it all? Searching the tiny, stacked Japanese streets for record stores can be as daunting as wading through the country’s back catalogue itself. But Fukuoka has a lot of hidden gems for the music lover. So if you’re like me and bought a record player before you bought a chair, this list should keep you on cushions for a long, sonically beautiful time to come.
bright yellow sign a few times already; it’s definitely worth stopping in. Covering all genres in almost entirely used vinyl, these guys know their stuff. Unfortunately, they also know how to price it. But if you’ve got some yen to spare, an original UK mono release of Pipers at the Gates of Dawn, or The Velvet Underground & Nico (complete with peelable banana), can be yours. For the more budget-conscious, they sometimes have sales where you can get some great finds for a steal.
All genres are represented fairly evenly, and it has the largest selection of Japanese albums I’ve found yet. While the selection may not be the best if you’re looking for something specific, this is a great place to delve into Japanese music you might not otherwise try.
Ticro Market
Jungle Exotica
Geared heavily towards hip-hop, soul, funk, and breaks, Ticro offers new and highquality used records, giving it the feel of a well-stocked new release shop. Collectors of other genres need not shy away, though, since there’s a decent selection of everything from melodic hardcore and punk to Japanese dance. They’ll even let you listen to your selections before you buy, which comes in handy if, like me, you’re easily drawn to albums that look like some kind of 70s Japanese–Inuit fusion, but with a price tag that defies taking a chance.
Warning: not for the claustrophobic. This tiny, cramped shop is a great stop on your way to Nagahama-yatai, but you might not want to bring many friends. The most CD-friendly of the shops on this list, Parks promotes a solid selection of discs from local bands that are worth checking out and offers a balanced selection of Japanese and English albums. The contemporary J-Pop/ indie section is fairly small, but you can dig up some really unique and obscure finds here.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/davidd, flickr.com/JamesHadfield
Fukuoka Chuo-ku, Akasaka 1-13-7 Nishijima Building 3-A TEL: 092-715-8748 Hidden in an unassuming apartment block in Akasaka, this might be the best record store in town. Clean and spacious, Jungle Exotica focuses mostly on new vinyl releases, but the carefully selected collection will please even the pickiest of customers. 90s purists will love the new and used indie selection, while hip-hop, drum and bass, and dubstep seekers will be hard-pressed to find a better offering in town. Excellent foreign selections and a smaller, but equally good, selection of CDs are also available.
Borderline Records
2F Tachibana Bldg, 1-14-14 Daimyo, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka TEL: 092-734-4198 (open 11:00 to 20:00) I’m sure you’ve passed by Borderline’s
203 1-15-30 Daimyo, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka TEL: 092-725-5424 (open 11:00 to 22:00)
Parks Records
303 Tsuruichi Bldg, 1-1-16 Minato, Chuoku, Fukuoka TEL: 092-716-8009 (open 17:00 to 23:00)
This list is far from extensive, and popup shops and sales can happen in the unlikeliest places. So keep an eye out; your next best find might just come from the side of a shrine!
Taguchi Shouten
1-2-6 Akasaka, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka TEL: 092-716-0087 (open 11:00 to 20:00) My local used vinyl shop of choice, I’ve gone through many a point card here. Located on fashionable Keyaki-dori, Taguchi Shouten actually has some of the best prices in town and is an excellent hunting ground for bargain bin rummagers.
Mandy Hindle is an
English science editor living in Fukuoka. She shares her used Japanese record discoveries at http://japanesesleeves. tumblr.com Summer 2013
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TRAVEL
Haircut.
Brendan Donnelly shares the magic of an unexpected haircut in the streets of Vietnam.
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N
ha Trang is gorgeous. The beach reminds me of that infinite stretch on Surfers Paradise. I don’t remember it being so nice. Vietnam was a kip back then though. Eight years ago. Rats everywhere. There was only one dead one floating in the sea today, but back then… We had a wild time here at Nha Trang back then. Diving. Mud baths. That boozy all-day boat cruise, dragon, mango, durian, lychee, papaya, all the fruit you could eat. The floating bar, that guy Benny floating away in the current. Friends that I’m still in touch with. The Sailing Club, wild parties we had there, dusty, dirty, cheap, dangerous, the motorbike, the crash, that guy’s leg, the antics back in the hostels… not on paper in Japan. Pho noodle stand as the sun rose. Vietnam has come a long way since then. It’s new. It’s young, enthusiastic, energetic, she has beauty to offer and you are welcome to see her. The youth invite you, they look toward the vibrant future, war is not their memory. The Sailing Club, is it still there? We stroll. It is. It looks like a luxury beach bar. Spectacular. We order some fancy food beyond our budget. Eggs benedict on a beach in Vietnam. Wow. Use and abuse their bathroom, clean towels. Immaculate. The white sand, clear water, blue skies, palms, sunshine, heavenly, we could stay here for ever. But this isn’t what we’re after. We don’t belong. Real life. Despite our exhaustion, real life is what we’re after. It’s here. It’s in this town. Beckoning us, I can feel it.
Brendan Donnelly
is a second-year ALT in Nakama City. He enjoys having a laugh with his students, studying the ancient Japanese art of 弓道 ‘the way of the bow’ and the modern Japanese art of 酒道, ‘the way of the booze’.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/nwlynch
Departing the façade of the beachfront, we stroll down the backstreets. Sauntering. Lazily dragging flip-flops over gritty streets. No hurry. We have long since forgotten time. That departed us five months ago. I think we dropped it somewhere in Kenya? A mirror nailed to a wall in the middle of the street. Twine hangs from the top, on either side. A plywood shelf is supported. Scissors, hair clippers, razors, combs, oil. Just there. In the open. Middle of the street. My eyes are caught. A grin appears. The man in the chair senses my curiosity. His opportunity. He forsakes the remainder of his haircut to coax me in. He speaks little English,
but his smile, laugh, manner and gestures suffice. I’m in the chair. The barber never utters a word. There is no electricity. Are those things charged? Oiled? Smooth? I picture them cutting out part way through and tugging violently at my hair. My prejudice revealed. Only to me. Incredible concentration on this man’s face. The clippers are razor sharp. Fully charged. Super smooth. He shaves my head with precision. The pride; dedication in his work is incredible. He takes his time. Ensures every blade is sheared to equal length. It’s perfect. A gesture to my beard. A negative shake. The beard stays. He tidies up around my ears, back of my neck. Brushes me off. Finished? The first man is sitting beside Yuka at a bus stop. Constant laughter. Yer man is a joker, “No honey… no life”. He ponders. “No beer, no life!” “Hahahaha!” Yuka’s having a ball! The barber pulls a cut-throat razor. He takes it to my neck. I’ve never seen one. He begins shaving behind my ears. Nervous. His concentration. His precision. Back of my neck. My forehead. A tour bus pulls up. Stops. A row of windows flashing at me. The bus moves on. He takes hold of my ear. He carefully shaves off the tiny white bum-fluff hairs. Next he’s on to my earlobes. I’m sitting on a plastic chair in the middle of a dusty backstreet having my earlobes carefully shaved with a cut-throat razor by a stranger in Vietnam. Yuka is cracking up at this hilarious, full-of-life fellow beside me. A slice of real life. I pay the man ₫15,000 for the best haircut I have ever had. I can’t stop rubbing my ultra-smooth earlobes! The funny man tries his luck for a ‘finder’s fee’. I slip him ₫10,000 with happy smile. A Russian man walks by. Dour look. The local man whispers to me, “Never smile. Holidays. Why no smile?”
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TRAVEL
Adventure in the Yaeyama Islands
Jennifer Chan offers some tidbits from her travels through the islands of Okinawa Ishigaki-jima 石垣島 Though Japan is very much a monochromatic culture, Okinawa represents a unique blend of Japanese, Chinese and island culture found no where else in Japan. Though Ishigaki is part of the Okinawan archipelago, its rural location has led to the formation of a unique culture, distinct even from Okinawa. As a result, Ishigaki has a friendly and very relaxed atmosphere that makes it an ideal vacation spot for those who appreciate nature and clear, blue seas. Ishigaki’s reputation for natural beauty has been recognized across Japan, and avid divers should seize the opportunity to see not only sea turtles but also the majestic and gentle manta rays. During one dive, we encountered the poisonous umi-hebi, or sea snake. Known to be 15 times more poisonous than any land snake, our dive master bravely caught the snake and asked us to pose with it. Naturally, everyone declined, but I think our dive master is, in fact, the bravest man alive. Taketomi-jima竹富島 A short 10-minute ferry ride away and with only 325 people on this island, Taketomi Island and the three neighboring islands form the Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park. With a full-day bike rental for only 1500 yen, you can easily spend all day exploring and still have time to relax on the beach. Taketomi itself is known for its traditional red tiled roofs, large stonewalls, sandy streets, and stunning white beaches. A charming way to explore the town is through the famed water buffalo cart tours, where tour guides eagerly introduce their village as the water buffalos lead you from one sight to the next. Music lovers will also have a chance to play and listen to the Sanshin, a traditional Okinawan instrument that has formed the base of many of Okinawa’s traditions. Though the sleepiness of the village has its charms, the clear blue waters and white corals sand has become Taketomi’s most recognized feature. Tourists come to see the well-known star shaped sand found on its beaches. The grains of star shaped sand are actually fossilized sea creatures that have washed on to the shores, forming a beach unlike any other in the world. Ryukyu Blue 16 the refill
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Sometimes, on a vacation, it’s nice to get your hands dirty and make a one of a kind souvenir. Okinawa was once an independent kingdom known as Ryukyu, and the blue of Okinawa’s oceans has become celebrated as Ryukyu blue. This rich and tranquil color is a staple within Okinawan artwork, and can be seen in both its glasswork and textiles. Okinawa offers the chance to make unique and personalized crafts as souvenirs. For 3000 yen a glass, with the help of professionals, the soft and organic quality of the glass is quite breathtaking to watch as it forms within your own hands. For about 1500 yen, you can make a small table run on a traditional Okinawan loom and watch as traditional artisans create fabrics, or browse the displays of famous Okinawan celebrity wardrobes. #1 in Japan Ishigaki was voted the #1 dive spot in Japan for the 13th consecutive year. Many dive shops offer sample dive courses, which means you don’t need a license to see some sea turtles gracefully gliding past you. Shisa From its Chinese influence, Okinawa is known for its cute paired dog - lions that have become the mascot of the islands. These open mouth Shisas protect homes from on top of the rooftops to scare away evil sprits. The Shisas come in pairs, a male and a female, and can be distinguished from the shape of their mouths. The male says “あ” and the female says “ん”, which symbolizes the beginning and the end of the hiragana alphabet, but also extends into greater meanings. Though modern houses have become cheaper to make these days, Taketomi Island continues to be famous for its Shisa gated driveways and authentic Okinawan style red tiled roofs.
Jennifer Chan is a departing fifth-year ALT in
Tachiarai. She enjoys learning something new every summer, and this year, she’s going to learn how to play trampoline dodgeball back in Seattle.
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY: Talia Nagatoshi
RECIPES
Go-To Grilling Marinades Steak:
Grilled Salmon or Tuna:
1/2 c. Worcestershire Sauce 1/3 c. Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2-3 cloves Minced Garlic 1/3 tsp. Onion Powder Salt & Pepper (cracked or coarse ground) to taste
1/2 c. Teriyaki Sauce 1/2 c. Soy Sauce 1/4 c. Honey 1/2 Tbs. Crushed Red Pepper
Enough to marinade two 8 oz. steaks Chicken: 1/2 c. Soy Sauce 1/3 c. Extra Virgin Olive Oil 1/3 c. Lemon Juice (Fresh Squeezed!) 1/2 c. Worcestershire Sauce 2-3 Tbs. Dry Red Wine 2-3 Tbs. Balsamic (or Cider) Vinegar 1 Tbs. Dry Mustard Powder 2-4 cloves Minced Garlic Enough for 8-10 pieces of chicken
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Enough for one large salmon filet or four tuna steaks Marinade for no more than 6 hours, though there are people who swear by marinading overnight (or even up to 24 hours!) Extra tip: Use large Ziploc bags, as it allows you to flip the meat and massage the marinade into the steaks or chicken every now and then as it marinades.
Hayden Loos was born and raised in
Memphis, Tennessee, where barbecue is ichiban. He regards the seasonality and periodic scarcity of charcoal at Japanese supermarkets as sacrilege.
THIS PAGE PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/ChunKitTo OPPOSITE PAGE PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/LanAnhTran
Ridiculously Easy and HeartFriendly Matcha Tofu Muffins
Ingredients Silken Tofu 400g Flour 300g Baking powder 4 tsp Sugar 40g Matcha powder 30g Salt to taste Drain the water and place tofu block in a mixing bowl. Mash the tofu with a fork Add the remaining ingredients to bowl and mix until well combined Preheat oven to 180C/350F Add vegetable oil to mixture if it looks too dry. You want the mixture to gently slide off your spatula. Scoop mixture using a spoon into muffin cups or trays. Filling them to 50% or 60% is ideal. Put in oven adjusting time for the baking dish. (Muffin cups = 25-30 minutes) Remove from oven and let stand to cool.
Fulin Low is a departing third-year ALT from
Singapore. She enjoys baking a lot though she started out knowing nothing about it. In fact, she still doesn’t really understand but it is basically just putting stuff in a bowl, mixing them up and sticking them into the oven. It always comes out different for her, but she finds it fun! Her baking motto is: You can bake anything as long as you can imagine it. Summer 2013
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PHOTO JOURNAL
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY: Alecs Mickunas, Jamina Ovbude, Josie Henning
SHORT SHORTS
Trainspotting: Shinkansen by Numbers 22 the refill
Summer 2013
Fastest speed: 300 kilometers per hour (between Osaka and Fukuoka) Launch year: 1964 Number of shinkansen lines: 8 Current construction cost of shinkansen lines: 3.04 trillion Yen
Number of Tokyo train stations servicing shinkansen: 3 Required stopping distance when a shinkansen train is travelling at its maximum 300 kilometers per hour: 3 minutes and 45 seconds Approximate number of shinkansen operating from Tokyo to Osaka each day: 290
Annual operating revenue: $19 billion USD
Percentage of shinkansen cars always in serviceable condition: 100%
Average delay time (including weather-related delays): Less than 1 minute
Number of total shinkansen passengers since its inception: approximately 8 billion
Amount of time cleaning staff have to clean a shinkansen train: 7 minutes
Number of passenger fatalities due to derailments or collisions: 0
Number of snakes found on a shinkansen train: 2
Year in which the shinkansen’s earthquake warning system was introduced: 1992
Cost of a seven-day Japan Rail Pass: 28,300 Yen Distance between each seat on the E-5 Hayabusa Shinkansen: 1.3 meters Average arrival time: within 6 seconds of scheduled arrival time
Years lived by Hideo Shima, a designer of the shinkansen: 96
Amelia Hagen is a departing 5th year ALT with some serious travel knowledge. Soon she’ll be off to explore more of life’s many adventures.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/LASZLOILYES
Number of shinkansen lines currently under construction: 3
Number of shinkansen service types: 15
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LIVING
If I were a Japanese Mum’s Shoppingukato, This Is What I’d Carry Olivia Doggett shares a Japanese mum’s suggestions for hitting the grocery aisle like a pro.
1. Mizuna 水菜（みずな） In Japanese, the word, mizuna, literally translates to “water green”. It has a slightly peppery flavor, similar to arugula. Mizuna is Japan’s refined lettuce. Western Equivalent: Arugula Average Price: Under 100 yen Recommended Brand: Local (地元の) is better.
4. Chikuwa ちくわ
Way to eat it: Mum-friend recommends this as a quick breakfast. Pour a pouch into a bowl, then mix it up with a bit of boiled water and a touch of cream or milk if you’re fancy. Add cracked pepper and eat with toast.
Summer 2013
Recommended Brand: Marukin is a brand that sells organic (yuki-teki, 有機) kinu tofu (top photo). Morinaga sells nice momen tofu.
The high salt, low nutritional content ratio is outweighed by how creamy and sweet this soup is. It’s worth it; believe me.
2. Cream of Corn Soup コーンスープ
Recommended Brand: Knorr
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Average Price: 118 yen for small 4 packs of silken Marukin. Under 100 yen for a block of momen
Way to eat it: Kinu tofu is delicious in salads (see Mizuna recipe) or even just plain with a drizzle of dashi (soup stock) or sesame oil. To enjoy momen tofu, simmer it in some water with a bit of dashi and dried wakame (seaweed) for about 8 minutes. Serve with fresh ginger and shōyu (soy sauce).
Average Price: 158 yen for a pack of 3 or 278 yen for a pack of 8
E
Western Equivalent: Cheese
Way to eat it: Works nice in a salad. Wash, roughly chop, and pitch in a bowl. Throw in some fresh ginger, silken tofu (see below), a glug of olive oil, a sprinkle of sesame seeds, and salt and pepper .
Western Equivalent: Chicken Noodle Soup
ver since I arrived in Fukuoka last August, I’d been jonesing for a guided grocery store tour by a Japanese mum. I finally got my opportunity this spring. Here is a list of the top 10 tasty and useful items I came away with after two and a half hours of inching along the aisles of Sunny with my 8-monthspregnant-mother-of-two-already Japanese friend. I’ve also included some food vocabulary and kanji below. Let’s enjoy grocery shopping together!
are available in textures ranging from soft to extra-firm.
Wikipedia describes chikuwa as a tubelike food-product made of fish, MSG, and sugar. Sounds like the cafeteria food served in Hell. Mum-friend adamantly recommended these for bento, though. Western Equivalent: Deli meat. Average Price: 68 yen for a pack of 5 Recommended Brand: Mum-friend says they are all pretty much the same. Way to eat it: Insert long, thin strips of cucumber into the fish-tube and dip in miso-mayonnaise (mix 2 parts mayo to 1 part miso). This is a calming culinary activity. Especially suitable for men trying to combat their fear of cystoscopies.
3. Silken (Kinugoshi) Tofu 絹漉し豆腐（きぬごしどうふ) Cotton (Momen) tofu 木綿豆腐（もめんどうふ) 5. Spanish Mackerel 鰆（サワラ） Tofu is a real big deal in Japan. Mum-friend told me that Japanese people have the same kind of love affair with tofu as many Westerners have with cheese. There are two main kinds of tofu available – kinu tofu and momen tofu. The word kinu means “silken,” and momen means “regular” or “cotton.” Kinu tofu is not drained or pressed, so all of the water remains inside. It feels like a wet baby and tastes real smooth. Momen tofu has a dense and spongy texture. You can tell why it’s considered peasant tofu, but it’s still good in stir-fries. Both kinds
Sawara is an oily fish (aka high in Vitamins A and D and omega-3s). It’s tasty, cheap, and relatively safe for fish in Japan. Sawara can carry fairly high levels of mercury, although this is a problem with lots of fish. The good news is that sawara is not currently overfished, so it’s sustainable! It’s most popular to eat in late spring/early summer. Western Equivalent: Whatever the easy-tocook, go-to fish of your country is. For me,
that’s tilapia. Average Price: Typically under 500 yen for 2 filet. Recommended Brand: Supermarkets have to be on their top game for freshness, so Mum-friend said there is no particular brand to go for. If you want super fresh fish, there is a market called Itosaisai (伊都菜 彩) in Itoshima where the fishermen bring in their catch directly. Way to eat it: Mum-friend suggests dipping the sawara in egg, then coating it in garlic powder, salt, pepper and flour, and frying it in a pan with a knob of butter or teaspoon of olive oil (I would use 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, 1/2 cup flour per 2 fillets).
While not a good mushroom to eat raw (they taste like the smell of drying window caulking), shimeji are versatile for cooking because they do not break down when boiled or sautéed, and they maintain a chewy texture and a slightly nutty flavor.
Average Price: A bottle is usually under 200 yen.
Western Equivalent: Button mushrooms (or whatever is the go-to mushroom in your country)
Way to eat it: Dip into some cold sōmen (素麺) or soba noodles with some green onions when it’s hot out.
Average Price: Under 80 yen a pack.
11. Rice 米（ごはん）
Recommended Brand: Hokio or your local variety.
Nutritionally, the most important grain in the world.
Way to eat it: Throw into a pasta sauce or boil for a minute and add to a salad. Also perfect for vegetable miso soup (see above).
Western Equivalent: Whatever national white carb of choice is.
6. Rice Miso 9. Black Thunder Chocolate 米味噌（こめみそ） Bars Mixed Miso ブラックサンダー 調合味噌 (ちょうごうみそ) It’s like someone went to an Oreo factory Miso is typically rice, barley or soy fermented in salt and some fungus. Yep. A Japanese cooking staple. It’s salty and usually a bit musty in a good way. Mumfriend recommends chōgō miso (mixed, 調 合), which is a combination of rice, barley and soy miso. Chōgō miso is generally richer and heftier than other varieties. Kome miso (rice, 米) is much sweeter and smoother and is often used as a sauce-base.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/buck82, flickr.com/Connie
Western Equivalent: Chicken stock
and swept up everything on the floor, and then melted chocolate all over it.
Western Equivalent: Black Thunder reminds me of Mr. Big in that Mr. Big also looks like what you’d find under a movie theater seat in the shape of a giant turd. Black Thunder is ten times better though. Average Price: Konbinis (convenience stores) usually sell them for less than 40 yen. A bag of 12 is about 250 yen.
Average Price: Ranges between 200 yen to 600 yen depending on whether or not you are buying local or organic.
Recommended Brand: If it doesn’t say Black Thunder, then don’t buy it. There are only enough floor cookie crumbs for one company.
Recommended Brand: Organic (yukiteki, 有機) chōgō miso with no additives (mutenka, 無添加) by Miyajima (宮島- み やじま).
Way to eat it: Put it in your mouth. Throw it in your freezer if you want something new. Melt it in the sun on an aluminum plate and lick it off if you want something extra new.
Way to eat it: Drop a couple of spoonfuls of fungi-fermentation into a pot of water and add thinly chopped cabbage, carrots, onions, buna-shimeji mushrooms (see below), dried wakame (seaweed, ワカメ), kinō tofu (see above) or even sliced chikuwa (see above) with a dash of shōyu (soy sauce) and sesame oil.
10. Tsuyu つゆ
7. Brown Clamshell Mushrooms ブナシメジ
Tsuyu is made of shōyu (soy sauce), mirin (rice cooking wine), bonito flakes and kelp. It’s light and refreshing, and used primarily as a dipping sauce for cold noodle dishes. Summer sauzzze. Western Equivalent: Hard to equate, but maybe tsuyu is a much healthier version of how mayonnaise is used in macaroni salad and coleslaw during summertime.
Recommended Brand: ヤマエ (Yamae). It comes in both a concentrated paste, and a liquid form.
your
Average Price: 950 yen for 2 kg or 1980 yen for 5 kg. Recommended Brand: 福岡県産 夢つくし (Yumetsukushi). This is a local Fukuoka brand of rice. Mum-friend recommends getting the muken-mai (rinse-free, 無洗米) variety because it is easier to cook. I still think it needs a quick rinse though. Way to eat it: Wash the rice well (keep straining it until the water comes out clear). Cook it. Eat it. If you have leftover rice, make rice porridge, rice pudding or rice bread.
Extra Notes Here’s a list of key words you shoppers might want to remember. Organic – Yukiteki Local – Jimotono No Additives – Mutenka Low Salt – De-en Full Fat – Shibougataka Low Fat – Shibougahikui
Olivia Doggett is a second
year ALT from Canada with a pension for cooking good food and enjoying quality people. Summer 2013
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ENTERTAINMENT: REVIEWS
A Storm of Swords by George R.R. Martin Fret not readers, this review is spoiler free
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s a fan of the Song of Ice and Fire series I was excited to hear the news that it was being made into a TV series, “Game of Thrones”. But knowing the epic scale of the books I wasn’t sure if they’d be able to pull it off. As it turned out, my fears were unfounded with the HBO show knocking it out of the park and taking its place as one of the most popular shows on TV. There are a few differences between the books and the TV show. Firstly the fact that the book series is named “A Song of Ice and Fire” whilst HBO has stuck with the title of the first book, “A Game of Thrones”, for the entire TV run. The second season of the show corresponded roughly to the story from book two, “A Clash of Kings”. The third book, “A Storm of Swords”, will likely be split over two seasons of the TV show just as the lengthy manuscript was published in two parts in many countries when the paperback was released in 2001. But when the story is this good, you won’t complain of the length.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/SørenNiedziella
The story in the book series is told in firstperson narrative with each chapter told from the perspective of a main character and progressing their individual storyline. There are several small plot changes from the TV show and many minor characters have been changed or cut. But don’t fear a quick internet search for the synopsis of the first two books will have you following along in no time. I don’t recommend the third book for anyone who hasn’t read the first two or missed the first two seasons of the show or you may be lost with the characters and plot lines. But if you enjoyed the first two seasons of the TV show and are left wanting for more, you should give the third book a shot. The book is also available as an excellent audiobook read by Roy Dotrice - a seasoned stage actor whose many voices add life to the most minor of characters. I’ve just finished listening to the audiobook version as my second run through of the story and I sped through it on 2x speed on my iPhone. This brings the hefty 48 hour audiobook (read at a leisurely campfire story pace) down to a more manageable 24 hours (at the kind of pace you would read the paper copy in your head). But the story is captivating to the point where you will be listening until you go to bed, and want to start again in the morning. The banter between the characters is as sharp and colourful as the descriptions that George R.R. Martin uses to paint his world. Take the sheer arrogance of Jamie
Lannister’s dialogue,“There are no men like me. There is only me.” complemented by the humour in his thoughts, “Ser Cleos’ snores sounded like ducks mating.” But it’s the author’s use of suspense and plot turns that really sucks you in. The first two books had their share of drama and heartbreaking moments, but the third book is without question the jewel of the series thus far. The first time I read Storm of Swords there were two memorable scenes that were so brutally shocking and well written that I had to put the book down for a moment and catch a breath. When I revisited A Storm of Swords with the audiobook version, now five years since I originally read it, those same scenes were still just as powerful and had my stomach in knots of anticipation as they drew close. I really haven’t seen anything in the genre that compares to this. Top 5 quotes from A Storm of Swords: 1 “When you know what a man wants you know who he is, and how to move him.” 2 “All these kings would do a deal better if they would put down their swords and listen to their mothers.” 3 “I’ve never been quite sure what the point of an eunuch is, if truth be told. It seems to me they’re only men with the useful bits cut off.” 4 “Old stories are like old friends. You have to visit them from time to time.” 5 “And if we die, we die. All men must die, Jon Snow. But first, we’ll live.”
Jody Johnston is a reclusive and departing 5th year ALT from Scotland living in the south of Fukuoka prefecture. You may have seen him...but it’s unlikely. You can find him eating porridge and listening to Led Zeppelin. Summer 2013
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ENTERTAINMENT: EVENTS
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Upcoming Events
Summer is here, and that means it’s festival season! Slip on your yukata (or jinbei, for the men), grab some takoyaki and shaved ice, and get ready to enjoy some of Fukuoka’s biggest events of the year! Inca Empire Exhibition June 30-September 1 Mummies are in town, and they’re….dying to see you. From now until September 1, the Fukuoka City Museum will be home to five mummies and a variety of archaeological artifacts, all part of the comprehensive Inca Empire Exhibition. Also featured is a 3D theater set that offers visitors an impressive aerial view of the mysterious city of Machu Picchu. Tickets are 1300 yen.
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Chikugo River Fireworks August 5 In case you miss the Ohori Park Fireworks Display, don’t fret! The Chikugo River Fireworks Display is one of the largest in western Japan, boasting roughly 18,000 fireworks and nearly 450,000 visitors from across the country. Not only is the Chikugo event one of Japan’s longest-running fireworks shows, but it also has held the world record since 2003 for the longest firework – over 3km long, nicknamed “Niagara Falls.” The river is a 10-minute walk from JR Kurume Station, and the display will take place from 7:40-9:10pm.
Isla de Salsa August 24-25 Are you in the mood for dancing? Thirsty for some infectious rhythms? Then make your way to Fukuoka’s 17th annual Isla de Salsa, a two-day music festival that’s sure to add some spice to your summer! Located at Seaside Momochi – Jigyohama, the festival features a lineup of international and local musicians, as well as a variety of foods and unique artwork. Bring your swim trunks and flippy-floppys so you can cool off in the sea after all that dancing! With live music, delicious food, and great company, what better way to enjoy the season than at the Isla de Salsa? For more information, CLICK HERE!
For more details on these events and other festivals near you, CLICK HERE or HERE. Enjoy!
OPPOSITE PAGE PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/PatrickSavalle, BACK COVER PHOTOGRAPHED BY: flickr.com/ReihanAkira
flickr.com/japp1967,
flickr.com/lazyfri13th
またね！
Special thanks to our departing past contributors: Amelia Hagen Yannick McLeod Dena-Kae Ferguson Jody Johnston Alicia Castaneda Stacy Koyama Jenn Chan Fulin Low Itumeleng Dube Rachel Dunn Lauren Sakakibara Anita Yung Ashley Chin
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Based on Fukuoka’s tradition of kae-dama, in which a refill of ramen noodles is served for leftover broth, The Refill serves up additional information about life in Japan for Fukuoka’s JET community.
contact us at: the.refill.fukuoka@gmail.com The contents of this newsletter are strictly for entertainment purposes. The magazine cannot be held responsible for actions taken as a result of its content. The viewpoints published herein are those of the authors and do not reflect the philosophy or viewpoints of the Fukuoka Board of Education, the JET Programme or CLAIR.