RETRO
Issue Three
CLASSIC INFLUENCE. CONTEMPORARY STYLE.
Madchester
Factory is back in production reviving their glorious club days
Hedonistic Heritage
How The Hef is celebrating 50 years of the Playboy Club
Paloma Faith The Truth or Something Beautiful?
EDITOR’S LETTER
W
elcome to the third issue of Retro Magazine. This month you’ll notice that we’ve altered a few things. The major change is we’re now called Retro magazine... You were calling us that anyway and surprisingly it hadn’t been used by another style magazine so we decide to snaffle it up. After the fantastic response we got from the style sections, we’ve decided to go into cahoots with Location Works, who are the biggest suppliers of properties for film and TV in the UK. They’ve got a spectacular range of properties which we’ll be getting the keys to and letting you inside to have a snoop around (page 36). We are also pretty chuffed to get an interview with the fabulous Paloma Faith, who epitomises what we stand for: classic influence with contemporary styling. We think she’ll be one of the big stars of the next decade (page 30). We’re also focusing on two iconic brands that are celebrating this month: Factory with the opening of their new club FAC251 in the former site of the Factory Records offices (page 40), and Playboy Club, who are celebrating their 50th anniversary with a spectacular array of 50 parties in 50 cities in 50 countries, all on the same night (page 46). We hope the Hef’s pacemaker is fully charged. We’re loving the feedback, so keep it coming. Bruce Hudson Editor Retro Magazine editor@theretrocollective.com
INSPIRED
4 10 16 20 24 28
Cameos Top 5 Gadgets Lifestyle Motoring Anniversary
FEATURES
30 36 40 46
Paloma Faith Home Front Factory Playboy
PERSPECTIVE
50 Coq au vin 52 Importance of Roots 54 Retrospective
4
36
CONTENTS
30
10
Cover Image by Alice Hawkins, This Page: Top Left - Charm Factory, Top Right - Vintage at Goodwood, Bottom Left - Location Works, Bottom Right - Christina MatĂŠ
STREET STYLE CAMEOS
Name: Tiumpa Sen Age: 19 One person that you ad Teese Where do you usually b clothes?: On e-Bay Where did you buy your and for how much?: On
Words and Pictures by Cristina MatĂŠ
mire?: Dita Von
buy your
r coat n e-Bay, ÂŁ5
Name: Brittany Jamison Age: 27 One person that you admire?: Julie London Where do you usually buy your clothes?: Second hand stores Where did you buy your coat and for how much?: In California, $25
Words and Pictures by Cristina Maté
Name: Dujardin Rèmi Age: 21 One person that you admire?: Mark Hunter Where do you usually buy your clothes?: In vintage stores Where did you buy your jacket and how much?: In Le Marie (Paris), £45
Name: Hannah Koscian Age: 29 One person that you admire?: Joan Collins Where do you usually buy your clothes?: On e-Bay Where did you buy your glasses and for how much?: In a car boot sale, £1
STREET STYLE CAMEOS
Name: Emily Baker Age: 25 Where do you usually buy your clothes?: Top Shop and Vintage shops Where did you buy your skirt and for how much?: I made it myself
STREET STYLE CAMEOS
Name: Elliot Smith Age: 18 One person that you admire?: Johnny Cash Where do you usually buy your clothes?: Second hand shops Where did you buy your shoes and for how much?: In Jump The Gun, ÂŁ115
Five Minutes Inside... This month we step inside To Be Worn Again, in Sydney Street, Brighton, UK. This cosy little hub contains a treasure trove of quality second hand clothes and accessories, with a large selection of vintage and retro gear. We thought it sounded right up our street and Kym Hatala, the manager of TBWA, was even nice enough to help dress a dummy for us!
Photos by Esther Aventin Clothes selected by Kym Hatala & Cristina Maté
Bag: £20
Belt: £15 Coat: £45
Shoes: £30
1 FIVE THE
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Vintage at Goodwood Wayne and Gerardine Hemingway are behind a new festival launching in August, celebrating five decades of British cool and they‘ve pulled in some famous friends to promote the event: Vivienne Westwood model Sara Stockbridge, model and burlesque dancer Kitten Von Mew, Sixties singer Sandie Shaw, Fifties model Bronwen Astor, pop star Lily Allen and Swing Out Sister singer Corinne Drewery. Sound totally decade-nt. www.vintageatgoodwood.com
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Race Retro Europe’s premier historic car event takes place at Stoneleigh Park. Sir Sterling Moss rates it the best historic car show he’s been to and who are we to argue with the great man. www.raceretro.com
3 FIVE THE
Cadillac Booth Set Cola Red’s North American factory has been making furniture since the early Fifties and they’ve been importing this booth and other retro furniture into Europe since 2005. Authentic and stylish… oh happy days. www.cola-red.com
TOP
Tin Tin by Nick Munro Inspired by the comics his dad bought for him when he was a nipper, Tintin was his favourite. He made this coffee pot out of pewter (which is mostly tin) and in the shape of Tintin’s rocket. His dad thinks it’s his best design. Aw bless. www.nickmunro.com
4 FIVE THE
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5 FIVE THE
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Juicy Orange Fridge Freezer by Gorenje The coolest thing to come out of Slovenia, well ever, these fridges are styled in bright, lusty hues of Lime Green, Raspberry Pink and Juicy Orange with handles available either in the timeless and fashionable chrome or in the colour of the chosen fridge exterior. www.gorenje.co.uk
Inspired New products Classic influence
iPad Clutch £TBC Twit. Twoo. You’ll be a doubly happy owl, this month, when you buy the ipad because The Happy Owl design studio has come up with this rather natty ‘Clutch’. With space for your mobile, wallet and other bits and bobs for when you head off to the office, just don’t leave it on the tube when you’re coming back twatted, after a Friday session in the boozer. Available from April. www.happyowlstudio.com
Umazone USB Speakers $25 Fan of steampunk? Then these USB speakers, which work with Windows XP, Vista & 7, are a must have. The four vacuum tubes contain a blue LED which flicker along with the tunes you put on. Available in two colours: metallic silver and black. www.umazone.jp
gadgets Specimen Horn Speakers $1850 The Little Horns (steady) can be used with almost any stereo system, and are also uniquely suited to low-power (10-watts or less per channel), singleended triode (SET) tube amplifiers. They’re 36” tall overall and the bell of the horn is 14” across (behave). The base is an 8” cube and will sit nicely on a 10” deep shelf… and, well, frankly if these don’t give you the horn, then nothing will! www.specimenproducts.com
Triphos DoDoNa Cube $170 Korean Company, Triphos has introduced their latest portable mp3 player the DoDoNA S-100 (the person who named it obviously has really podgy fingers). The MP3 Player is a 1.1-inch OLED display, built-in speakers, FM radio, voice recorder, and 4GB of internal memory. We like it although it looks like you’ll find Mini Me’s washing inside. www.gobizkorea.com
AIAIAI Tracks Headphones $59 Inspired by the Walkman, the development of the Track has been a collaboration with Kilo Design to ensure the latest speaker driver technology and material craftsmanship. The 40mm speaker offer a full-spectrum sonic experience from the deepest base to high frequency tones. But as soon as we heard Kilo was involved we thought that’s going to set us back a few pounds. We were wrong. www.revolveclothing.com
gadgets
Polaroid PIC 1000 $100 When I first saw this I wasn’t sure if I should take photos with it or plane the nearest door. But the wood grain finish is a grower and all part of ‘The Impossible Project’ between Polaroid and long term partner Summit Global Group, to offer a completely redesigned, modern version of the Polaroid OneStep camera, the PIC 1000. We’re all for plans to re-release the old instant-film cameras and the famous Color 600 instant film. They’ll hit the shops in April. www.polaroid.com JVC RV NB50 Kaboom $299.95 Now who can resist a boom box. JVC is shaking the room with the RV-NB50 Kaboom. It’s got the basics you’d expect…CD player, FM radio but keeping in line with recent releases has an iPod dock and line-in port. Those generous guys at JVC even throw in a shoulder strap, so you can blast some unsuspecting pensioners on the go. Note...when carrying make sure you don’t forget to put your Seventies ‘fro comb in your hair. www.jvc.com
Inspired New products Classic influence
Oasis Flow Digital Radio £25 The Oasis Flow combines digital radio and FM reception with a Wi-Fi connection. This rechargeable internet-connected radio comes in a rugged weatherproof case, cast aluminium framework and rubber seals which means it might, just about, survive the rigours of the English summer. www.pure.com
MP3 DJ Mixer £120 Superstar DJ here we go and according to Urban Outfitters “this iPod DJ mixer brings a new level of professionalism to the bedroom DJ.” and yes the SPIN knob simulates the scratch feature on a DJ turntable. Looks like the heady days of bedroom air guitar and hair brush karaoke are over. Welcome to the Summer of Bedroom Love. www.urbanoutfitters.co.uk
lifestyle
Kartell Cindy Table Lamp by Ferruccio Laviani £137 I guess Dallas in the late 70s was the closest that decade came to bling and these look like they’ve been lifted from the Poison Dwarf’s bedside table. There is just something about these table lamps which screams ‘turn the lights down low, baby’ but remember to keep them out of JR’s reach as he’d loved to throw one of these at Cliff. www.heals.co.uk
‘The Hef’ Sofa $15,000 Mad Men star Bryan Batt runs Hazelnut New Orleans, a trendy home decor showroom that boasts fine pottery, stemware, and a Playboy sofa! In honour of Playboy Club’s 50th Anniversary Batt has designed ‘The Hef’. There are only 50 ‘The Hef’s, and check this out, founder Hugh Hefner has signed each one. Simply shagtastic! www.hazelnutneworleans.com
Inspired New products Classic influence
Lodge Enamel Cast-Iron Apple Pot £ 81.60 Comes in a tasty red or green apple shape and is great for slow cook stews and casseroles when you need an even cook that holds the heat. Cast iron has a non-stickiness so you don’t have to worry about scything through the coating at the bottom of the pan. www.overstock.com
Soehnle Retro Digital Kitchen Scale £66.73 This scale provides measurements in analog but covers itself with a more detailed digital readings underneath. So if you are doing a Bridget Jones, you can make sure every item is measured and counted to the nth degree. Oh sod it, get a pizza in and while you’re at it where’s the fags and the booze! www.amazon.co.uk
Michael Jackson knitted puppet £POA We haven’t done Michael justice here because if you go on to Popo and Sousa’s myspace page he moves, oh yes he does. They have 183 friends on their site. And that, my friend, is a very good thing indeed and goes a little towards explaining why God rested on the seventh day. www.myspace.com/poupeetsoso
Inspired New products Classic influence
Retro-Tech Computer tables £POA The tables come in a choice of dedicated game player or pc based, with internet and wireless keyboard. The pc-based table has a hi-spec pc, dual core processor and wireless keyboard.This one comes preloaded with 60 classic arcade games and an optional coin mechanism. Wizard! www.retrotech.co.uk
Lavazza Mio Modo coffee maker £119.95 Lavazza have added these natty colours to their ultra chic espresso coffee maker which uses cutting edge extraction technology to produce an exceptionally full-bodied and creamy espresso. The steam arm allows you to prepare perfect cappuccinos and lattes and there’s a hot water function for making tea. Our mornings will never be the same. www.johnlewis.com
Normann Copenhagen Heima Candlesticks £19.99- £82.49 This cutting-edge design brand launched in 1999 and now sells in over 70 countries. These elegant candlesticks by Francis Cayouette are made from cast iron and were inspired by the Nordic tradition of lighting and cosiness from living flames. www.scp.co.uk
lifestyle LG retro TV serie 1 $216 A14-inch diagonal screen, complete with rabbit-ear antennae and chrome legs with old-school knobs for changing channels and adjusting volume. It does have a modern twist with digital tuner, composite video for your retro video game console, and a wireless remote. No mention anywhere of your Dad telling you to turn it off and do your homework. We think that comes as an extra. www.lge.com
Motoring
Dodge Challenger Mopar Like to drive fast. Then this is for you, as this baby ain’t legal on the motorway. The Challenger is a high-horsepower super-stock styled on cars built forty years ago for the original drag-track specials and the 2010 Dodge Challenger Drag Race Package allows you to relive those days with a retro-styled ‘Performance Appearance Package’ that ticks all the boxes. www.dodge.com/en/2010/challenger
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Toyota FT-CH hybrid concept Toyota wants to turn the Prius brand into a family with 8 potential new hybrid models scheduled. Plug-in hybrids and battery electrics are planned by 2012, and hydrogen fuel cell vehicles for 2015. But if all the talk of global warming is to be believed then where’s the underwater model. Just a thought like. www.toyota.co.uk
Nike Air Jordan 1 25th Anniversary release The Jordan Brand is celebrating their 25th Anniversary in 2010. So to honour the great man’s legacy, there’s going to be a series of shoes released throughout the year. The Nike Air Jordan 1 Retro in grey, white and metallic silver are the first to be slamdunked on us. Features a commemorative “23/25″ logo on the tongue and comes boxed in an aluminium briefcase (just in case you need to make some notes while you’re lining up a three-pointer).
Inspired New products Classic influence
Photos: Alice Hawkins/ The Charm Factory
magic
c in the air After witnessing a standout performance on Jools Holland’s Hootenanny, Bruce Hudson talks to the flamboyantly determined Paloma Faith and discovers the former conjurer’s assistant has more than a few tricks up her sleeve
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ew Year’s Eve, 2010, my wife and I contradiction, the wonderfully curious, the incredibly heroically choose to stay up (we have a one intoxicating (well it was in keeping with the night) year old) and watch Jools Holland’s Paloma Faith. She performed New York in a dress Hootenanny in front of a roaring fire in our friend’s on which a university theses could be written, but Devonshire cottage. With the Merlot beginning to suffice to say it was The Statue of Liberty….with flow, a couple of great mates and the audience of fringing. This girl has style. celebrities to vicariously stumble Aaah, I hear you ask but could she drunkenly through the festivities sing? Well, with a very firm nod of the She is dressed (take a bow Eddie Irvine and Al head, her performance was a Murray - your inebriation did us knock-out. But her appearance made divinely but, proud) the night succeeded in takme nervous. Why the hell hadn’t I rather surprisingly, heard ing on a rosy glow. The ubiquitous of her? If she was on Jools Florence and the Machine perform, when her mouth Holland she must be a big star? and rightly so as during the latter Damn it! Why did they get rid opens she speaks Right? part of 2009 they had been, well, of Top of the Pops!! ubiquitous. Jools Holland with a Danny Dyer, So I decided to go in search of schmoozes with the audience, then Paloma Faith and discovered I wasn’t Laaanden drawl schmoozes with Florence and then the only one who hadn’t heard of this schmoozes, as only Jools can, with bright new thing. An anecdotal survey an elfin, pixie-like creature who is overly excited to of friends and colleagues reveals the occasional be there (like a child who has drunk too much nod and one fan and a visit to HMV doesn’t shed orange squash at their own birthday party). She is much more light. Her debut album is falling off the charts at 54 (it peaked at 9 in the official listings), dressed divinely but, rather surprisingly, when her but a chat with the manager says she’s had two top mouth opens she speaks with a Danny Dyer, Laaanden drawl. 20 singles off the album and she’s ‘bubbling under’. I decide to send a Facebook message to her And, there you have it, we are introduced to the
Photo: Saul/ The Charm Factory
requesting an interview and by the end of the day she has responded, saying ‘great’ and before I know it I’ve entered the whirlwind that is Paloma’s life. She subsequently cancels twice and when I finally get hold of her she admits “that this week I had seven days of stuff packed in, and anything that wasn’t 100% got knocked out”. A quick peek at her twitter page backs this up as she has performed at the Jazz Café, flown off to and performed in Finland and been in a Channel 4 short film.
Curiouser & Curiouser I finally get to speak to her the day after the Brit Awards, where she is noticeable by her absence of any nominations, particularly for the Newcomer of the Year award. Curiouser and curiouser? Her original reaction to the snub on Twitter was “Ho hum! I didnt get nominated for a Brit Award but nor did Amy [Winehouse] on her first album so I will try not to get upset.” So is there frustration at how the debut album has performed? “I’ve achieved more than I ever imagined. But as soon as you’ve achieved something then the bar is raised. It’s inevitable that next time I want it to do more. When you look from the outside at the industry I’m in, it looks so glamorous and people do it with me. ‘You’re a big celebrity now’, but I still manage to get on the bus and tube and not be recognised constantly. I do sometimes but it’s not difficult for me to carry on the way I was.” But she’s working hard to change all of that. Paloma was born Paloma Faith Blomfield, 1985, in Hackney, London to a Spanish father and a British mother and describes herself as a ‘proud Londoner’. Her first job was at 14 working in a café in Islington, washing up. It was during
“I’ve achieved more than I ever imagined. But as soon as you’ve achieved something then the bar is raised. It’s inevitable that next time I want to do more”
this period that she first started to be inspired by the vintage look that has become her signature both on and off the stage. “I was inspired by Marilyn Monroe. My cousin was obsessed by her and had all these posters in her bedroom and I wanted to be like my cousin so I copied her.” The singing was slower to take off, although she used to perform covers at school concerts. “I was singing songs by bands like Brand New Heavies but being honest nobody ever liked it.” From school she went to Leeds to train as a dancer but as she admits, “that was a real shock to the system because I’m such a proud Londoner, but I thought that might be my only opportunity to leave. But I wasn’t into it. It was quite a negative time for me training to be a dancer. It was very narcissistic. It taught you to scrutinise yourself physically and I don’t think that’s healthy for anybody.” During this period she did a “bit of singing with a teacher and I also started writing but it was shit.” It was on her return to London and in particular to St Martin’s (she has a MA in Theatre Direction) that she really started to blossom and the creative juices began to flow. “That was a really inspiring place to be. That opened me up to lots of possibilities. It gave me a sense of freedom like how I could express myself.” When I ask her how she got into St Martin’s there’s a sharp intake of breath. “I got a first for my degree dissertation. I like to pretend that I’m stupid so that people think they can run rings round me and then I can quickly lash out.”
Under The Influence The fact that she’s a smart cookie comes as no surprise. The depth and variety of her work and
influences betray this. It’s not many young pop stars who would cite Josephine Baker (noted as much for her services to civil rights as being the first African American to star in a major motion picture) as their hero or when asked to name a song to chill out to would select ‘I’d Rather Go Blind’ by Etta James or heading out to a party would put on ‘Bloodshot Eyes’ by Wynonie Harris. But the way Paloma has got to the front of stage is anything but traditional. A trawl through her CV shows she has had a unbelievably colourful career juggling jobs as a sales assistant at Agent Provocateur, a singer in a burlesque cabaret, a life model and even a magician’s assistant. She sites her mother as the driving force and wanting Paloma to be everything she wasn't. "She put great value on things that people take for granted, like being able to swim and dance and drive, the things she couldn't do." You get the feeling the drive really comes from
within Paloma, and her own influences are beginning to take centre stage. “My mum has always been massively encouraging and supporting of me but Marisa Carnesky, a performance artist who did the Ghost Train I was on and initiated the burlesque revival in the Eighties, has been a huge mentor to me.”
Stage Presence These influences are also reflected in her live shows, which she prides herself on, as each performance is unique. The stage, of course, is crafted by Paloma, where she is as likely to make a dramatic entrance sporting a huge feather plume, as a variation on the showgirl, or carrying an oversized balloon, but one who takes her influences from a vast knowledge of film and theatrical culture extremely seriously. An acute sense of dynamic and drama punctuate the show, enhancing songs that draw on musical influences
She describes her live performances as “David Lynch meets William Blake at the circus�
as diverse as Billie Holiday, Etta James, P J Harvey much time. At the moment, as you know, my schedule is absolutely ridiculous.” and Edith Piaf. She describes one of her early I wouldn’t put it past her to achieve both, but like performances as “David Lynch meets William Blake at the circus.” The audience dress up and knew the one of her idols, Etta James, it might be a while before she gets the recognition from a words to all the songs before the “I got a first for wider audience. It’s notable that when I debut album was even released. ask her for a career highlight so far it’s It comes therefore as no real my degree not the top ten album or the starsurprise for a girl who likes to make dissertation. studded film performances, it’s the a visual impact that she has made it on to the silver screen. I like to pretend appearance that I saw on the Jools show. In 2007, she was the saucy emo that I’m stupid so Holland “I guess the fact I went on the show in blockbuster St Trinian's, alongside Rupert Everett and Russell Brand. that people think and then got asked to go back. I was probably the least known act on New More recently Terry Gilliam cast her they can run Year’s. I felt really honoured to be the as the girlfriend of the devil (played by Tom Waits) in The Imaginarium of rings round me one person to be on there who hasn’t had the longevity [career-wise]. I was Doctor Parnassus, starring the late and then I totally having fun.” Heath Ledger and Johnny Depp. So I’m feeling rather chuffed that, When I ask her if she could choose can quickly although my wild-partying days may be an Academy Award or a Number lash out” on hold for the foreseeable, I stayed in, One album she has to stop to think. because an evening with friends, family, Jools “I think the number one album. I really enjoy acting and I want to do more. But it’s really hard to get the Holland, Paloma and a roaring log fire was just about the perfect way to see in the New Year! headspace to be on a film because it demands so
Paloma’s Album ‘Do You Want The Truth Or Something Beautiful’ is available now on Sony Records. She is currently touring the UK, for more information and booking details go to www.palomafaith.com Also available is the charity single ‘Put A Spell On You’ to raise money for relief and aid for earthquake-stricken Haiti. The song features Paloma with Shane MacGowan, Nick Cave and Chrissie Hynde to name but a few. To preorder your copy for just 79p and support a good cause at the same time click here: http://www.7digital.com/artists/shane-macgowan-and-friends/i-put-a-spell-on-you
Home Front
Basement Jaxx We thought you might like a sneak look around some of the inspiring properties and locations that are influenced by the styles of the past so we’ve teamed up with Europe’s largest location company, Location Works, who provide a location finding and management service for the film and television industries and a complete production and location service for the photographic industry. They have an extraordinary range of locations on their books ranging from derelict buildings, lofts and conversions, to castles and palaces. If you have a location which may be of interest to the Location Works email us at editor@theretrocollective.com
Based in north-west London this is a large basement exhibition gallery with an extraordinary cornucopia of 20th century, classic furniture in large open areas and individual room settings.
Home Front
Fit for a Queen
This lush, romantic, boudoir-style house with an eclectic and cluttered interior is based in north-west London.
If you have a location which may be of interest to the Location Works email us at editor@theretrocollective.com
Clocking Back In The original Factory headquarters where New Order, Joy Division and The Happy Mondays were launched has been transformed into a nightclub by Peter Hook. Geraldine Spencer tracks the extraordinary history of a name that refuses to die
FAC 251 opens this month on the site of the Factory Record’s headquarters after a complete refit to unveil a new club in homage to the iconic Haçienda. The club features three main rooms, continuing the Haçienda favourite night ‘Stone Love’, a Haçienda Presents room with Mancunian legends on the decks and a third room playing the best in Seventies and Eighties Funk and Electro. The venue is a joint venture of Factory Record’s Peter Hook and Aaron Mellor of Tokyo Industries - the people behind the award-winning Digital clubs in Newcastle and Brighton. Also involved is Ben Kelly, the original Factory and Haçienda architect, who has completely reworked the building to suit its new purpose. Undoubtedly one of the most influential British music labels, we trace the Factory story from its humble beginnings, to the present day.
1978 The name ‘Factory’ was originally used for a club night run by Granada TV presenter Tony Wilson and Alan Erasmus, a band manager and unemployed actor, with bands The Durutti Column, Cabaret Voltaire and Joy Division heading the bill. Graphic designer Peter Saville designed posters.
1979 When Joy Division’s manager Rob Gretton wanted the band to record for a local label to bypass the impenetrable London-centric music industry, Factory Records with Wilson, Erasmus, Saville and Martin Hannett (who was poached from John Cooper Clarke’s label Rabid Records) was born. 1979 gave us Joy Division’s debut ‘Unknown Pleasures’. A year later Gretton became the fifth partner in Factory Records.
In May 1980 Joy Division singer Ian Curtis committed suicide just before the band was due to tour the US. The following month Joy Division’s ‘Love Will Tear Us Apart’ reached the UK top twenty and the second album ‘Closer’ was released in July. In late 1980 the remaining members of Joy Division continued as New Order.
1980
1982 Everything Factory did had its own catalogue number, from the first flyer, to Haçienda house wines, to a lawsuit filed against the label by producer Martin Hannett. In May 1982 Factory and New Order opened a nightclub, the Haçienda (FAC51) in a converted Victorian textile factory near the centre of Manchester, which won acclaim for its interior designed by Ben Kelly and was hugely successful in attendance terms. New Order and Tony Wilson were directors of the club, however the club lost copious amounts of money in the first years due to unsustainably low bar prices (cheaper than the local pubs), and equally low entrance fees. Increasing bar prices failed to compensate for the losses, clubbers preferring ecstasy to alcohol with the club costing New Order £10,000 per month.
New Order’s Blue Monday became an international hit in 1983 and 1985 saw the first release by The Happy Monday’s. These two bands were the most successful for Factory and funded other projects. Factory and the Haçienda became the cultural heart of the dawning techno and acid house genres and their synthesis with post-punk guitar music, becoming known as the Madchester scene.
1994 In 1994 Wilson attempted to revive Factory Records with cooperation from London Records, “Factory Too”. The first release was from The Durutti Column, followed by Hopper, Space Monkeys and new signing Stephin Merritt’s The 6ths: Wasps’ Nest.
1983 1992
By 1992 serious financial trouble blighted Factory due to overfunding their two most successful bands. The Happy Mondays went on a drug binge recording their fourth and last album Yes Please! in Barbados before leaving the Factory label. New Order allegedly spent £400,000 on recording their comeback album Republic. London Records declared an interest in taking over Factory but the deal dissipated when they learned Factory eschewed contracts; New Order owned their back catalogue rather than the label. Factory Communications Ltd declared bankruptcy in November 1992 and many Factory signings moved to London Records, including New Order.
1997 The Haçienda lost its entertainment licence and closed in 1997. A charity auction was held in November 2000 to sell off all of the fixtures and fittings from the iconic club. The site was bought by property developers Crosby Homes and was demolished, to be replaced by a modern luxury apartment block in 2003.
1997 The label continued until the late 1990s with Factory Once, which reissued old Factory material. Wilson, frustrated with London Records need for profit left and founded the short lived Factory Records Ltd with only Space Monkeys on his books, who released “The Daddy of Them All”. By this time The Durutti Column and Hopper had left Factory..
2006 In 2006 Wilson launched F2 Records with Raw-T (a grime collective), The Young Offenders Institute and online tracks from The Durutti Column. The label folded in 2007 when Wilson discovered he had cancer.
In 2002 the film ‘24 Hour Party People’ was released, to critical acclaim. It followed the story of Factory Records, the Haçienda and the bands and people involved. It starred Steve Coogan as Tony Wilson and Ralf Little as Peter Hook, along with other big name actors such as John Simm, Paddy Considine, Rob Brydon and Simon Pegg. The film was entered into the 2002 Cannes film festival.
2002
2007 On August 10th 2007, Tony Wilson died. At his funeral his coffin bore the catalogue number FAC501.
2010 February of this year saw the opening of FAC251, located on the site of the Factory Records headquarters. The night was headlined by Peter Hook’s band The Light, who played a 17 song set featuring New Order, Joy Division, Monaco and Freebass tracks. Hook was joined onstage by Primal Scream and former Stone Roses bassist Mani, Howard Marks, Gary Briggs, Rowetta and his son Jack. Sporting a shirt with a quote from Tony Wilson - “We made history, not money”, they gave a performance Mr Wilson himself would have been proud of.
Hottest Ticket As Playboy Club organise a series of spectacular events to mark their 50th anniversary, Geraldine Spencer reveals the facts behind the fantasy
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ebruary 29th 1960 - Hugh Hefner opens the first Playboy Club at 116 E Walton, Chicago, Illinois. Inspired by Burton Brown’s Chicago chain of Gaslight Clubs, the bar featured ‘Bunny Girls’ complete with fluffy tail, who served drinks to key holders, with entertainment from some of the country’s top performers.
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layboy Club membership became a status symbol, although only 21% of all key holders actually attended any club. Membership cost $25 each and earned Playboy $25 million for every 1,000,000 members, this revenue being critical to Playboy’s development. During the last three months of 1961, over 132,000 visitors crossed the threshold, making it the busiest club in the world.
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he Iconic Bunny costume has been worn over the years by over 25,000 working ‘Bunnies’, and was the first uniform to be issued a trademark registration by the US patent and trademark office. Now one of the world’s most recognised uniforms, the costume was redesigned in 2006 by Roberto Cavalli for the Playboy Club Las Vegas Bunnies and Playboy Club Celebrity Dealers, including Jenny McCarthy and Carmen Electra.
t In Town world’s sexiest party To celebrate the club’s anniversary, 50 playboy club parties will be held in 50 different cities worldwide, including Las Vegas, Miami, Cancun, London, Hong Kong, San Diego, Chicago and Johannesburg all on the same night- June 10th. For one night only the venues will open their doors as honorary ‘Playboy Clubs’ to celebrate the occasion. For updates and information go to: www.playboyclub50.com.
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he bespoke design of a rabbit wearing a tuxedo bow tie was designed by Art Paul for the second issue - originally as an end note. But Hefner, saying he liked the “humorous sexual connotation” and because it was “frisky and playful”, adopted it as the official logo for Playboy. A running joke in the magazine involves hiding the logo somewhere in the cover art or photograph.
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layboy Clubs have sold nearly 2.5 million membership keys to become one of the most successful nightclub chains in history. The Playboy Clubs, together with the hotel, casino and resort facilities, eventually included 40 properties in 25 states and seven countries. The privileged Playboy Club key holders of today include a host of celebrities: P. Diddy, Usher, Paris Hilton, Dennis Hopper, Dave Navarro, Jamie Presley and Michael Phelps.
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In 1965 Victor Lownes opened Playboy’s British casinos on behalf of Hugh Hefner, following the legalisation of gambling in the UK. Gaming income financed (with disaster) : clubs, theatres, resorts, record companies and film investments. Compared to the Club and casino revenue, Playboy magazine’s turnover was extremely modest.
50th Anniversary Products Playboy are to launch a collection of specially designed anniversary merchandise. Products include Vintage-inspired tee shirts, Bunny-inspired lingerie, special edition glassware and “The Hef” Loveseat designed by Mad Men’s Bryan Batt, signed by The Hef himself (see page 20). The products will be available online at www.playboyclubstore.com and at retail outlets across the globe including Ann Summers (UK), Urban Outfitters (US), and Top Man (UK).
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he first playboy magazine centrefold was of Marilyn Monroe, although she didn’t actually pose. The first issue sold out in weeks; known circulation was 53,991, the cover price 50 cents. The novel Fahrenheit 451 by Ray Bradbury was serialised in the March, April and May 1954 issues. In 2002, copies of the first edition in almost mint condition sold for $5,000.
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layboy recently opened a new club in Las Vegas, Nevada known as The Palms, with its conspicuous neon bunny head. It has bars, casinos and a restroom featuring Playmate pin-ups.
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ritish casinos contributed $32 million to the corporation, the 45 Park Lane casino being the most profitable in 1981. That year Playboy profits were estimated to be $31 million. However 1981 witnessed the demise of Victor Lownes; he was fired and gambling licenses not renewed, severing Playboy’s main income source; this created a financial crisis only resolved by radical changes within the empire.
Playboy Redux Art Exhibition In Collaboration with The Andy Warhol Museum, more than 20 established and emerging artists have been invited to reinterpret the iconic Playboy Bunny. The artists use a variety of mediums ranging from painting to video, and feature works from Jeremy Fish, Gary Baseman, Scott Anderson, Jeremy Kost, and Kalup Linzy. Playboy Redux: Contemporary Artists Interpret the Iconic Playboy Bunny will be on display at the Pittsburgh museum from March 27 through June 19, 2010. For more information visit: www.Playboy.com/Bunny50
Hilary Tailor Importance Of Roots After ten years in the sportswear industry working for adidas and Puma as a trend and colour consultant, Hilary set up her own design consultancy, HST Creative. She now works with clients in sportswear, fashion, design and publishing. This month Hilary looks at the foundation of brand heritage and what it means to stick by it.
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INE!” It‘s a Saturday morning and I am Cadbury lies within the story it has to tell. It is a watching my two children argue bitterly over story of heritage, ideals and the ethical growth of an empty shoebox they both believe to be capitalism. It’s not just chocolate, it’s an idea, an theirs. Even at the age of two, a person places the emotion - which is so intertwined in British culture it idea of ownership pretty high on the list. is like having a family member declare they are Flicking through the paper, I see an article leaving home and won’t ever come back to visit. declaring the author resolves to buy only British We, the British population, are devastated because goods this year. And then there’s Cadbury’s. It’s a we invested emotion in Cadbury’s…we were reared jewel in the crown of British brands. on it by indulgent grandparents. It is firmly rooted in “It’s a horror story,” says the great granddaughthe past and yet ever present, unchanged. The fact ter of George Cadbury, Felicity Loudon. "As a that 40% of the company is currently owned by Cadbury, I obviously feel particularly saddened by outside investment is skillfully ignored. So who else the possibility of one of the last remaining British should have a such a place in our hearts? icons disappearing into an American plastic cheese Cherchbi, is a British made accessories company. I cannot believe that something can't be company, and has more than a few similarities to done for totally patriotic reasons.” the Cadbury’s of old. The designs, materials, She’s not the only one horrified at the prospect hardware and manufacture all originate in the north of Kraft’s takeover bid. Since the announcement of the country. The owner, Adam Atkinson, is more the indignation of the interested in producBritish public remains ing great British undimmed, which is product in the UK weird because there than looking for wasn’t much uproar cheap mass manuwhen our airports were facture outside the sold to the Spanish, or country. “British when a majority of our manufacture is at the power supply was heart of the brand, it’s handed over to French the keystone which and German companies. locks everything So why does Cadbury within Cherchbi in place.” inspire such passion? His family was We can do without involved in the arts chocolate…we can’t do and crafts movement without heat and light. and his father was a The importance of Traditionalists were against the takeover bid from Kraft
shoemaker for over 40 years. So it follows that tartan, waxed cotton) engaged in ale drinking, and history is very important to Adam; it runs throughout country house living. She was more British than we his design inspiration. He calls it ‘heritage were. Is there a sneaking suspicion creeping up on aesthetic’. But would he use facilius now? Could Kraft out-English When Madonna ties outside the UK to grow the us? Might the product be marmoved to the UK, she keted more effectively? Might company, if it made financial sense? An emphatic no. “It’s they, gasp, actually sell our out-Britished us, integral to the company. There’s chocolate to foreigners? Speakshe supported enough manufacturing in the British ing as somebody who endured a Isles to support Cherchbi. It’s not chocolate-free 8 years in Gertraditional fabrics, many going to be Paul Smith, but that’s because they didn’t do engaged in ale not what the company’s about.” Cadbury, I can attest to the frusWhen you talk to the founder of a tration of seeing how poorly we drinking and country Brits market ourselves. This fruscompany like this, it is very easy to see how his emotional investment house living. She was tration is doubled when I witness transfers over to his customers, American colleagues living more British than we and how that could snowball when largely on a diet of Cream Eggs were. Could Kraft and Whole Nut when they visit the company expands, just like Cadbury. the UK. Why don’t we export our out-English us? But what happens when British talents? 95% of Cadbury’s chococompanies grow too big to sustain themselves? And late is eaten by the British. This is not a figure to be should we take the long proud of. view if we are faced with We should be sharing a brand leaving British the love, not hogging it. hands in order to survive? And it’s no good arguing Manchester United back that the Americans fans will be familiar with will destroy jobs and such bereavement when re-locate production to the Glazers took over, but Eastern Europe to cut who remembers that HP costs as Cadbury Sauce is owned and announced they were produced abroad? And going to do just that in who cares? It works both 2008. It is a great British ways, too. Do the pastime to moan about Americans resent the misfortune, but it doesn’t British ownership of their do us any good. We as a Cherchbi’s products have always been British Greyhound buses? nation have to stop being made-something which is ‘integral’ to the company Probably not. They so negative and look at remain an American icon. this as an opportunity. So why is everyone We have to hope that getting into such a steam Kraft bought our jewel in about Cadbury? Bizarrely the crown because it has enough, the answer may all the things they don’t, lie with Madonna, the and they will need to grandma of pop. treasure that. But if they muck it up and make our When Madonna chocolate crappy, plastic moved to the UK to live and tasteless? with Guy Ritchie, she Well, there will be a out-Britished us. Apart nice gap in the market from the terrible accent, for us to fill then, won’t she supported traditional there? British fabrics (tweed,
Jeremy Daldry Coq au vin Jeremy Daldry spends most of his time skulking round kitchens or with his nose in an obscure cookbook. He’s also made food shows for the BBC, commissioned food shows for UKTV Food and had a brief career writing in the national press, about food. This month, Jeremy is coq-sure of himself as he goes in search of a tough old bird
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hen it comes to retro, you can’t get much little bit more glamorous and French. Even if we more retro than the combination of red came from Colchester, which, as anyone who has wine, bacon, mushrooms and an old ever been will testify, is about as far from any sense farmhouse chicken. of glamour as you can get. And, of course, it was Legend has it coq au vin was invented for Julius always made with a pale English chicken rather Caesar as he made his conquering way through than a robust French coq. Gaul. And certainly it’s a great dish to fortify you The whole point of a long slow, braising dish against the soggy French countryside as you such as this, with fat in the form of bacon and a merrily go around subjugating, healthy slosh of alcohol are to The dish had a whiff coax some tenderness into an murdering and generally being a right-royal Italian pain in the arse. of the continent about otherwise tough and unyieldOne suspects if coq au vin was truly ing bird. Use a young chicken it, an air of a dish created for a conquering and you can end up with a Caesar, whoever the downtrodden sophistication; and cloying, gluey mess with an French chef who first prepared it unsatisfactorily tasteless made us was, probably added a little of his sauce and none of the big, own ‘special sauce’ by way of biting all feel that little bit robust flavours you’d expect. political satire. Never annoy the chef So the challenge becomes more glamorous and and/or burn down his village – you to hunt down a coq yourself. I will get spit (or worse) in your dinner. searched high and low in French. Even if we So fast-forward a couple of some of the best butchers in came from thousand years; the Roman Empire London and while most said has fallen, one suspects that the they could order me a bird, Colchester French are still pissing in our soup imported at great expense and Julius Caesar and Kenneth Williams have from France (somewhat making a mockery of what become the same person. is meant to be a hearty peasant dish) none had a But coq au vin is still one of the best dishes in coq in stock. In the end I settled for the gamest, the world…if you can get a good coq. It might have toughest looking chicken that I could find. fallen out of favour a little, but right through the 60s Once you’ve got yourself a game old bird then and 70s it was a staple of a thousand local French the recipe is simplicity itself, joint the chicken bistros and suburban dinner parties where it was (something that your butcher should be more than often served with, God forbid, rice and some awful happy to do for you) and then it’s just a matter of getting everything on the hob before cracking open German wine. The dish had a whiff of the continent your best bottle of red, putting some Serge on the about it, an air of sophistication; it went perfectly CD player, sitting back and thinking suitable Gaelic with Serge Gainsbourg’s pornographic muttering emanating from the stereo and made us all feel that thoughts.
Recipe A large jointed chicken Half a dozen rashers of unsmoked streaky bacon 2 onions A large carrot A stick of celery 2 or 3 cloves of garlic Sprinkling of flour Slosh of brandy Chicken stock A bottle of red wine A few sprigs of thyme A couple of bay leaves Butter Plain flour Large handful of small brown mushrooms Cut the bacon into strips and fry off with a little butter in the bottom of a large casserole until they are golden brown but not burnt. Remove and put to one side. Season the chicken with salt & pepper and place skin-side down in the casserole. You want to develop a golden colour to the skin as this is where the deep flavour will come from. Once the skin looks beautifully browned turn the chicken over and briefly colour the flesh side. Take the chicken out. Put the chopped onions, carrots and celery into the pan. If you want you can dice all the veg relatively small to give the dish a more refined look or leave them chunkier to make the whole thing more peasantry. But don’t cut them straight through, cut small or on an angle to increase the surface area. Just before returning the bacon and chicken to the pan add the chopped garlic. Add thyme and bay. Cover with the red wine. You have to be prepared to give up a whole bottle of decent French red and if you want to be bang on the money it should be Beaujolais. Put shit wine in… you’ll get a shit flavour out. If there isn’t enough wine in one bottle to just cover what’s in the pan make up the rest with chicken stock. If you can’t be bothered to make chicken stock try and get the fresh wet stocks that most supermarkets carry. Don’t use a stock cube, every-
thing will get too salty and kill the flavour of the chicken. Better to use water than a stock cube. Bring to a gentle boil, cover and reduce to a simmer. Fry your mushrooms in a little butter in a separate pan until golden brown. At the last minute deglaze the pan with a slosh of brandy, flambéing it to get all the extra flavour into the mushrooms. Always make sure someone is around to see you do this…it looks impressive and everyone will think you must be a serious chef even if it does cost you an eyebrow from time to time. Set to one side. You are looking at about 1 hour for the dish to be cooked. The chicken should be soft but not falling off the bone. Once you are happy that it’s cooked take the chicken pieces out and add the fried mushrooms while kicking up the heat to reduce the sauce. Make a beurre manié by taking some butter and forming a paste with the flour. It should look like a white gobstopper. The more flour you use the more the sauce will thicken. Better to add crumbs of the beurre manié gradually because you can’t take it away once it’s in the pan. Drop the beurre manié into the sauce and stir on the boil until the sauce looks thick and glistening. Taste and adjust the seasoning if it needs a little pepper or salt. Return the chicken to the pan and serve.
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Barrie‘Whizzo’Williams Barrie 'Whizzo' Williams for over 50 years has been thrilling motor racing crowds with his outstanding talent. He will be appearing at Race Retro, in March, Europe's premier show for historic motorsport, historic racing and historic rallying where he will be talking about his extensive knowledge of the sport. Interview by Andrea Seed
What’s the fastest speed you’ve been in a car and where was it? Over 200mph at Bruntingthorpe on a test day in a Jaguar XJ220 - not on the M40 like most! Have you ever injured yourself while driving? I've had a broken ankle and cracked a couple of ribs when racing at Snetterton in 1972 when I got punted off the track and I twisted my thumb a couple of years ago at Goodwood. What’s your favourite racing track? Difficult to pick one but I love Spa / Nürburgring, and Silverstone Grand Prix circuit - they have all got different characters to them that test the drivers. Who was your fiercest racing competitor? Every single one that was in front of me! Which car did you enjoy driving the most? I've driven so many it is hard to pick, from the Mini to lightweight Jaguar, they are all great pieces of engineering.
Which career would you have most likely have followed if you weren’t doing what you are today? There was no other career as far as I was concerned! What was your first job? I was an apprentice engineer and then I became a lorry driver. Who or what has been the biggest influence on your life? My father Frank (commonly known as Tony) who was a motorcycle racer before the war and all fatherly figures from then on. What is your proudest achievement? I didn't get her name! What is your all time favourite song? She Loves Me - The Beatles. Where did you have your most memorable meal? Any family Sunday roast is memorable for me. Do you collect anything? I've got loads of automobilia such as model cars, badges, books, etc.
Do you have a 20th century hero or idol? Sir Stirling Moss is an amazing man. What is your favourite film of all time? Any war film where the good guys win. Who is your all time favourite actor? Hard to pick one but I loved Steve McQueen and John Wayne. What is your all time favourite TV show? I'm a soap addict - Emmerdale, Corrie, Eastenders, can't miss them! Can you remember your first boy/ girlfriend’s name and are you still in contact? My first official girlfriend was Hazel Priest but I haven't seen her for years. If you could live in any decade, which one, and why? The pre-war era would have been amazing to live in, especially if you had a modern racing car that you could have taken back
in time with you. Have you ever ‘splashed’ the cash on something big? No, never had enough cash to splash. I only managed to cause a ripple. Is there one thing you want to do before you depart the stage?! I'd still like to win Le Mans - would be nice before I go!
The biography of his life ‘Whizzo - The Motor Racing Life Of Barrie Williams’ by Paul Lawrence is available from TFM publishing
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