Martin Eber

I heard a funny comment about the Scotch Malt Whisky Society the other day - that technically only one quarter of their name fully describes what they do. They no longer bottle only Scotch whisky, they no longer bottle only malt whisky, they no longer bottle only whisky...but they are still a Society (one of which I’ve been a devoted member since 2013).

Some may think the inclusion of

grain whiskies, world whiskies and other spirits has changed the Society, and I agree - it’s changed it for the better. My blog was always about enjoying whisky (and the occasional other dark spirit) on its merits and flavour alone, regardless of where it comes from or how old it is, and that’s a philosophy the SMWS really take to heart. So when SMWS started bottling whiskies from “new world” whisky countries like Taiwan, India, England, Denmark and Sweden, to me it wasn’t a case of “Oh no, they’re deviating from their roots!” it was a case of “Okay, so when will we see an Aussie distillery?”

That question was answered last August, when Luke McCarthy’s excellent Oz Whisky Review broke the news that, finally, an Australian SMWS distillery code had been announced. Distillery 147 had the honour, with their 147.1 “Jacaranda Jam”.

They say “good things come in threes” and that’s certainly the case here with the news that hot on the heels of 147.1 comes 148.1 (and in 2022, 148.2) - from none other than Melbourne’s Starward! Further down you’ll find further details on this important first release (a huge thanks to Matt & the Aussie SMWS team for the samples & opportunity), but I felt this was a good chance to revisit some key events in the history of Starward, and pull out a few highlights my colleague and friend, Hendy, and myself have experienced over the years. 2013 was the year Starward’s first whisky was released (matured in Australian ex-Apera casks), and was the result of 6 years of hard work, stemming from founder David Vitale’s vision to create a quality, accessible, distinctly Australian whisky. It seems obvious now, looking at Starward’s recent success and immense following, but back then it was a big gamble. My friendship with the distillery goes back to early 2013, when David was kind enough to give up an hour during a flying visit to Sydney to sit down and talk me through the (then) “New World Whisky Distillery” over a coffee at Shirt Bar. David generously gave me a 200mL bottle of the whisky, and my tasting later that evening confirmed this was one to keep an eye on! Fast-forward a few months to late 2013, and David was again kind enough to give me an in-depth, private tour of the distillery (the old Essendon Fields-based distillery, before the move to Port Melbourne), tasting the various stages along the way - wash, new make, and maturing cask samples. For me this was a fascinating insight into this new Aussie distillery, and a real eye opener as to the differences between UK and Aussie distilleries - which was never more apparent than when I asked about the “spirit safe”. David showed me the open, sheet-metal fabricated box where the spirit ran off the stills, and asked if I’d like to have a taste - by cupping my hands underneath and scooping some up! Something you could never get away with in Scotland!

It wasn’t long after that that my wife Steph and I moved to Hong Kong. Moving to HK meant leaving behind 99% of our whisky collection and taking only 1 bottle each, but for me the choice was easy - Starward’s very first “New World Projects” Single Cask Release #1. I figured this had to be the only bottle in HK (if not Asia), and I used it to spread the good word of Aussie whisky until the bottle was emptied. I stayed in touch with David, and the following year had the pleasure of arranging Starward’s very first tasting outside Australia, with David taking a small group of HK whisky lovers through an eclectic mix of Starward, new make, and gin. By that point, the Starward range had grown to encompass two core bottlings (a red-wine matured whisky sitting alongside the original ex-Apera product), along with a few weird and wonderful “New World Projects” releases. Funnily enough, six years on I still regularly have whisky catch-ups with some of the same people (often at the same venue) only now they’re bringing Starwards to the tastings themselves (not an easy feat, considering Starward still isn’t officially distributed in Asia)! It’s hard to believe that was six years ago, but since then it’s seemed the distillery can do no wrong, with the move to brand new premises right in the heart of Melbourne (the main reason for my 24hr trip to Melbourne in 2018), multiple new release whiskies (some limited, like the recent Unexpeated and the ever-popular “Ginger Beer Cask” series, some permanent, like the innovative Two-Fold blended ‘Double Grain’, which Hendy had the pleasure of seeing launched at the Distillery in 2019), and even a bottled cocktail series, including 2019’s delicious ‘Red Manhattan’.

...which brings us to today. It’s probably fair to say that as a young distillery, having your stock sought by independent bottlers is a clear sign of your popularity, and Starward has (in the last year alone) been bottled by no less than three well-respected “Indies”: Berry Bros & Rudd,

Now however, Starward can add another feather to their cap: being bottled not just by another independent bottler, but by the world’s leading whisky club, The Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

SMWS 148.1 Starward ‘Apera for Everyone!’ will be the first release, a 7yo single cask “dot one” distilled on 27 November 2013, bottled 30 March 2021, and matured in a 1st fill Apera barrique. Sitting in the “Deep, Rich & Dried Fruits” flavour profile, this is the oldest independently bottled Starward ever released, and was distilled at the original Essendon Fields distillery. Bottled at 58.3%, it’s being proudly released in this Outturn, launching via regular and ballot release on Friday 1st October at midday AEST. From an outturn of 210 bottles, most bottles will be made available to Australian members of the Society, with a small allocation also making its way to the UK.

Adelphi and That Boutique-y Whisky Company. Now however, Starward can add another feather to their cap: being bottled not just by another independent bottler, but by the world’s leading whisky club, The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Martin Eber ~ Founder of TimeForWhisky.com