Fitting Shoulders

Fitting Shoulders

Shoulder seams on a garment should fit the width and slope of your shoulders. The fit of the shoulder seams influences the fit of the entire garment, improves the overall drape, and many times solves other fitting problems.

1

Start by determining the correct length of your shoulder and adjust the pattern, making it narrower or wider, if necessary.

Measure the shoulder length from the neck base to the shoulder joint. Find the neck base by wearing a simple chain necklace or bending your neck toward the shoulder to locate the crease. To locate the shoulder joint, raise the arm and feel the indentation at the socket.

2

Using an indicator such as a red dot, mark the ends of the actual stitching line on the shoulder seam of your size.

Measure the width of the shoulder seam on the pattern between the stitching lines (the finished length). This shoulder measures 5 ½″ ″ ″finished for a size small.

Compare your shoulder length with the pattern measurement to determine how much to adjust the pattern.

Example: Your shoulder length = 5″ Pattern width = 5 ½″ Adjustment- reduce the shoulder seam length ½″

The basic concept of fitting is to start at the top. Make all lengthen and shorten alterations first, then make the adjustments at the shoulders before altering other areas such as the bust.