Portobello

Portobello

Oh we do like to be beside the seaside, and Portobello has all the elements you’d want from a trip to the beach. Long sandy stretches, some fantastic things to eat and drink, and great indie shops to visit while you wait for the sun to return

Three miles east of the city centre, Portobello is ideal if you want a break from the wet medieval stone of the Old Town. The focal point is, in case you haven’t guessed yet, the beach – a two-mile stretch that’s not always great for swimming, but perfect for lounging about with a book and a coffee.

The beachfront promenade is a lively mix of food, drinks, amusement arcades, families, dogs and cyclists everywhere (so keep your head on a swivel). There’s also a healthy high street dotted with indie shops and eateries, and some very good pubs for when the rain inevitably comes on.

Photo: Callum Deas

Portobello

Food and drink

Down on the beach you’ll find a pastel pink outpost of Civerinos Slice (47-49 Figgate Ln), serving up slices so big that the wind might genuinely take them out of your hands. Next door is a permanent home for Scottish street food legends Shrimpwreck (47-49 Figgate Ln). Their menu is packed with different beach-friendly ways to eat seafood – you could have crab in your macaroni cheese, you could get some shrimp covered in buffalo hot sauce, or you could pick up a sandwich and try not to cover yourself in a mist of batter flecks and pieces of fish. Whatever you choose, a good time awaits.

Weekends bring the Little Green Van to the beach, serving up takeaway espresso by Edinburgh roasteries, and The Espy (62 Bath St) is a great beachfront bar for a pint and a gaze out

Photo: Marc Miller

Bross Bagels

to the water. Over on the High Street, the Portobello Tap (no. 87) serve up great beers from a range of Scottish breweries, while the Forresters Guild (no. 40) has a beer garden packed with multicoloured beach huts for those days when you don’t want to put too much hope in the weather.

For a beach-appropriate meal, head for the tapas at Malvarosa (no. 262), while recent newcomer Tanifiki (no. 44) is the place to relax with a coffee. There are branches of the oft-mentioned Twelve Triangles (no. 300) and Bross Bagels (no. 177) if you’re in the mood for pastry / holed bread, and, because it’s the seaside, we need to shout out one of the city’s best chip shops. St Andrews Takeaway (no. 280), we salute you.

Things to Do

If after reading that first paragraph you’ve realised you don’t have any beach-friendly reading material with you, don’t panic! The Portobello Bookshop (46 High St) is here to help! The independent bookshop, which opened in 2019, has a bit of everything, from local indie magazines to genre-busting fiction, and regularly hosts readings and events in-person and online.

The fresh homemade pasta from Aemilia (186 High St) was a big hit of the 2020 lockdown; they regularly sell out early at their new permanent home at the other end of the High Street, so get down early if you’re keen for some ravioli. Looking for a memento of your trip that you can drink on the train home? Beer Zoo (219 High St) is one of the city’s very best bottle shops, with incredibly knowledgeable staff and a wide selection that includes beers and spirits from a host of local breweries and distilleries.

And if you want a bit of a break from the sand and the waves, look out for the latest from Art Walk Porty, which has in recent years grown from an annual celebration of the area’s artists into a multifaceted programme of events and residencies. This year that includes five residencies by local artists working

Photo: Jack White

Portobello

North Berwick

on site-specific responses to the coastline; there will be further events and exhibitions to check out at the 2022 festival, which runs 1-11 September. The Porty Light Box is a decommissioned phone box on the corner of Bellfield Street and the High Street that’s been taken on as a gallery space for the local community; it’s well worth swinging by and seeing what’s in the windows.

Getting There, and Going Further Afield

One of the best ways to get to Portobello from the city is by bike. Edinburgh’s city bike scheme shut down last year for, let’s just say, ‘various reasons’, but there are still options available if you want to make a day of it. Cycle Scotland (29 Blackfriars St), Leith Cycle Co. (276 Leith Walk) and Biketrax (2 Fountainbridge Sq) all offer bike hire – expect to pay between £20-£35 for a full day’s rental, but you will get a bike that a) fits your frame and has more than three gears and b) hasn’t recently been dredged from a canal.

Alternatively, use Lothian Buses to get to Porty – the 21 goes from Leith, the 26 from Princes Street or the West End, the 42 from the New Town or the 49 from the Southside. £1.80 each way, you can pay using contactless.

If you fancy a swim, a surf, or just a change of pace, the beaches of East Lothian are closer than you might think. In fact, the 124 EastCoastBus from the city centre passes through Porty on its way to Gullane and North Berwick. The former is home to a beautiful, sprawling sandy beach with some of the best water quality around; the latter is a charming seaside town with the sea to paddle in, shops to peruse, and a large hill (Berwick Law) to climb should the mood take you. It’s around 75 minutes from central Edinburgh to Gullane, then another quarter-hour to North Berwick; you can also get to North Berwick in 35 minutes via hourly Scotrail trains from Waverley (industrial action permitting). The best waves around can be found at Dunbar, a hub of activity for surfers, paddleboarders and other wetsuited enthusiasts. It’s around half an hour on the train with either Scotrail or CrossCountry.

Daytrips!

Once you’ve explored the centre, venture outside Edinburgh’s limits to find the beaches, mountains and cities of Scotland within easy reach

Words: Laurie Presswood

Photo: Sean Paul Pentland Hills

From its location in the heart of the lowlands, Edinburgh is perfectly placed as a starting point for day trips across Scotland. For those seeking shorter journey times, the Lothians are the natural place to start. Musselburgh sits just to the east of the city, and is reachable on foot in 40 minutes from nearby Portobello, by bus from Princes Street Stop PD, or in ten minutes on the train from Edinburgh Waverley. From there you can enjoy walks on the beach, ice creams in hand. To the west of Edinburgh City Council’s domain, you can find Cramond and South Queensferry. Cramond (visited by Maggie Smith for clandestine rendezvous in The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie) is the gateway to tidal Cramond Island, accessed by causeway. Text CRAMOND to 81400 for daily details of safe crossing times from the RNLI. Catch the number 29 bus from the centre to be at the beach in half an hour, or get the 41 to approach through the village itself. Meanwhile, hop aboard the number 43 to journey to South Queensferry, which houses the southern half of three enormous bridges. Stand underneath the Forth Rail Bridge feeling small, and quake in your little boots every time a train rumbles along overhead, or ascend to bridge level yourself and take a walk across the Forth Road Bridge. On 12 August, the town hosts The Burryman, an ancient annual ritual where a local man is dressed in a costume made entirely of burrs, and tours the streets being fed booze by bystanders. South Queensferry is also accessible via a 17-minute train to nearby Dalmeny, plus five minutes of walking – an adult’s off-peak day return will set you back £5.10. South of the city, the Pentland Hills play host to a 100km network of marked paths for those who have brought their hillwalking boots. With such a variety of routes to choose from, there’s a walk for everyone,

St. Andrew Beach

Photo: Amelia Claudia Courtesy of Jupiter Artlands

Photo: Nancy Hann Photo: Emily Crawford

Roslin Chapel

regardless of your fitness level. For a gentler walk, get the 37 bus direct from Princes Street to Roslin Glen Country Park – a large expanse of ancient woodland that is just over an hour away from the city centre (it’s also home to Rosslyn Chapel, made famous by The Da Vinci Code). Alternatively, on the other side of the Pentlands you can find Jupiter Artland, contemporary sculpture garden-cum-Instagram sensation which also serves as home to August’s Jupiter Rising festival. Catch the X27 bus from Princes Street and you’ll be there in 45 minutes. In the centre of Scotland lies Stirling, the old capital. Stirling is just a 40-minute train journey from Edinburgh, and is built around what we will, perhaps controversially, name ‘Scotland’s Best Castle’. Take the tour, and be invited to sit on a reconstruction of the King’s throne, or stand on the battlements and look out over miles of historic battlefields as the wind whips through your hair and you imagine you’re in an episode of Outlander. The bright lights of Glasgow are also within striking distance of the capital – go museum-tripping or shopping during the day, and drinking and dancing later on. The journey is only 50 minutes by train, and off-peak day return tickets are £14.20. Be careful if you’re in a rush, though – there are two possible routes to Glasgow, and one takes twice as long. These slower trains are usually headed for Glasgow Central – if speed is what you’re after, look for Queen Street. Either way, always check the arrival time of your train and compare with the two coming after it – you might find that a later train will get you in sooner. Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum boasts a selection of art and natural history exhibits, while the Riverside Museum, designed by Zaha Hadid, pays tribute to Glasgow’s shipbuilding past and is home to the transport museum. On the opposite bank of the Clyde, Glasgow Science Centre offers fun educational activities alongside a planetarium and IMAX cinema. For more of an in-depth guide to Scotland’s biggest city, pick up a copy of The Skinny Guide to Glasgow. If you want to learn more about Scotland’s history, and are keen to explore beyond the city boundaries, David Livingstone Birthplace in Blantyre attempts a balanced examination of the life of the Scottish explorer. Its exhibits present Livingstone against the backdrop of Victorian-era Scotland, and uses him as a vehicle through which to educate about Scotland’s industrial past as well as its role in colonialism. Moving further south still, New Lanark, one of Scotland’s six UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is an 18th century mill-village of striking proportions. It’s accessible via local coach from Lanark bus station, or direct from Glasgow’s Buchanan Street bus station – details for both services can be retrieved by calling Stuart’s Coaches on 01555 773533. Newcomers to Edinburgh might find themselves wondering what that expanse of land across the water is? That’s the Kingdom of Fife. With huge stretches of beautiful coastline, the charming fishing villages of Fife’s East Neuk are well worth a visit – but to do the trip justice a car is advisable. Further North, you can visit historic St Andrews via a train to Leuchars

Photo: Thomas Mills

Dundee Waterfront

followed by a connecting bus – fear not, the journey might sound a tad complicated but it shouldn’t take you more than an hour-and-a-half. If you’re satisfied admiring Fife’s picturesque landscapes through the window of a motor vehicle, then a day trip to Dundee might be in order. Travel from St Andrew’s Square with Ember, the country’s first all-electric intercity bus, or get the train in a little over an hour, to approach the city over the river and take in the full splendour of this jewel of the Tay as it was meant to be seen – from the water. The most striking feature of Dundee’s waterfront is undoubtedly the V&A – Scotland’s first design museum – and with the RRS Discovery and Jannettas Gelateria on either side, you could spend an entire day out in Dundee without having to travel more than 500 metres from the train station. Alternatively, for a proper expedition into the city, grab some fish and chips and head for the top of the Law (fish and chips optional).

City Arts

This year’s Edinburgh Art Festival negotiates the course of the city’s Union Canal, marking the 200th anniversary of its opening. From the Lochrin Basin to Wester Hailes, exhibitions this year reflect on the canal’s cultural and social significance

Words: Harvey Dimond

The Community Wellbeing Collective (C.W.C), a group of residents from Wester Hailes and surrounding areas, will present Watch this Space, initiated by the visual artist Jeanne van Heeswijk. Throughout the festival the space will host an array of events and gatherings led by C.W.C members, alongside weekend events by guest practitioners to expand upon themes of community wellbeing and social care. Activities will take place in Westside Plaza and online at watchthisspace.online (live from 28 July). Jeanne van Heeswijk will also present the Keynote Lecture on the opening weekend to kickstart this year’s festival on Friday 29 July.

Finding Buoyancy is produced in collaboration with groups and individuals in Wester Hailes, alongside Glasgowbased artists Pester and Rossi. The commission consists of three elements – a set of publicly sited sails at Bridge 8 Hub and Paddle Café; a community raft called Float

Image: Courtesy of the artist and Edinburgh Art Festival

if i cant have sunshine ill take-_, 2022 -3, Camara Taylor Edinburgh City Guide

For The Future made collaboratively with artist Sarah Kenchington and a canalbased performance produced with local people in collaboration with Rhubaba Choir.

Co-commissioned by Edinburgh Art Festival and Edinburgh Printmakers, Montreal-based artist Nadia Myre will present Tell Me of Your Boats and Your Waters – Where Do They Come From, Where Do They Go? Working across print, performance and sound, Myre explores geographies spanning Scotland and Canada, referencing Indigenous storytelling and histories of migration. The exhibition will take place both along the Union Canal and at Edinburgh Printmakers.

Platform: 2022 presents the work of four emerging Scotland-based artists – Saoirse Amira Anis, Emelia Kerr Beale, Lynsey MacKenzie and Jonny Walker. The exhibition reflects on the bodily experience and mythologies of care and interdependence. Taking place at Edinburgh Art Festival’s home L’institut Français d’Ecosse, it promises to be an expansive and multifaceted exhibition of some of the nation’s most exciting artists.

Glasgow-based artist Emmie McLuskey is this year’s festival’s Associate Artist, and she will present four new commissions centred on the environment, translation and gentrification. Hannah Jones will present a multi-disciplinary exploration of language, rhythm and origin in response to cultural and social migration. Janice Parker works with choreography and dance as part of her socially engaged practice, while Amanda Thomson works with notions of home and movement in relation to landscape. Designer Maeve Redmond’s research-led practice unpacks how the context of a site informs our aesthetic sense of place.

A multitude of exhibitions form the Festival’s partner program. Ashanti Harris presents an exciting new commission at Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop, titled Dancing A Peripheral Quadrille. The commission takes the form of a series of sculptural and performance works that entangle ideas around grassroots cultural production with Harris’s research and experience of West Indian Carnivals. Meanwhile, at Edinburgh Printmakers, Tessa Lynch considers feminist readings of the city in ‘expanded print’, promoting alternative building techniques inspired by play and the natural environment. The show continues until 18 September. Closing this year’s festival, the Endnote Lecture will be delivered by artist Hew Locke at St Cecilia’s Hall. He will be in conversation with Dr Maryam Ohadi-Hamadani from The Department of Art History at The University of Edinburgh on 26 August.

At Sierra Metro In Leith, Margate-based artist Studio Lenca presents a series of new works confronting the complex cultural history of El Salvador. Representing Japan at the 2005 Venice Biennale, Ishiuchi Miyako will present her first solo show of photography in Scotland at Stills, which continues until 8 October. In Talbot Rice, you’ll find the first survey exhibition of Céline Condorelli, including a major new installation expanding upon her Zanzibar series (2018-ongoing), informed by the Brazilian modernist architect Lina Bo Bardi. Fruitmarket present Daniel Silver’s Looking, a major solo exhibition of large-scale ceramic works from this protegé of Phyllida Barlow. Collective have three new artist commissions considering the hidden histories and untold stories relating to their City Observatory site and wider cultural history. Explore work from Camara Taylor, Ruth Ewan and Annette Kraus in their Calton Hill space and online.

Edinburgh Art Festival, 28 Jul-28 Aug

Welcome to the Fringe!

Arusa Qureshi, Editor of free-festivals-focussed magazine Fest, introduces this year’s Fringe programme

For the past few summers, Edinburgh has felt like an entirely unfamiliar place; a ghost town of sorts where the arts once roamed freely. For those who have grown up or spent a significant amount of time in the city, August in particular would always have been synonymous with the welcoming of international outlooks, the celebration of many cultures and, of course, the crowds upon crowds of people. But the cancellation of the Fringe in 2020 and the smaller-scale edition of the festival last year meant that celebratory spirit temporarily shifted to something involving more anxiety and trepidation on the part of audiences.

With the very future of live performance being called into question, it makes sense, then, that when the Fringe was ready to return to its full glory, it would bring with it a programme to remember. Admittedly, as we gear up for the 75th anniversary of the festival, it all feels a little overwhelming as everyone tries to remember how they once tackled this mammoth beast. With this, there have been numerous discussions around the future of the Fringe and what we want the next 75 years to look like. Can the Fringe be truly inclusive, fair and sustainable in its approach? And can the lessons learned by the creative industries over the pandemic be applied to this year’s festival and beyond? Only time will tell, of course. but in the interim, there is a hopefulness that surrounds the return of the biggest arts festival in the

Photo: David Montieth-Hodge

Photo: David Montieth-Hodge

Fringe

Pianodrome

world, coupled with an atmosphere that is undeniably full of an electric energy.

As with any festival programme, there are too many highlights to recommend in one go but inevitably, there are shows that are already on our radar. These include Blood Harmony at the Traverse, which features the music of The Staves, Hamlet with Ian McKellen, Irvine Welsh’s Porno, indie rock musical Lizard Boy and names like Randy Feltface, Patti Harrison, Marikiscrycrycry, Sophie Duker, Alok and Garry Starr. If you’re a fan of Drag Race, you’ll be pleased to hear that both Bianca Del Rio and Jinkx Monsoon are making appearances, and Summerhall’s music programme, Nothing Ever Happens Here, is as varied and vibrant as ever with Auntie Flo, Tune-Yards, Efterklang, Deerhoof and others. The Fringe can be pricey but if you’re on a budget, there’s no need to feel left out because PBH’s Free Fringe is back with excellent names on the line-up like Viggo Venn, Ali Brice, Sooz Kempner and Laurie Black. The usual culprits also make their grand return – The Stand and Monkey Barrel for great comedy, Summerhall for innovative theatre and dance, and unusual spaces like the Pianodrome or Assembly’s late-night 80s underground venue The Flick for generally good times.

Everything is typically dispersed across the city over August but much of the Fringe takes place in the city centre, with venues within walking distance. New spots to check out this year include House of Oz, which is a month-long, all-Australian showcase at King’s Hall, and Edinburgh College of Art institution the Wee Red Bar, which is playing host to a Lyceum/Edinburgh International Book Festival co-production of David Keenan’s cult classic This Is Memorial Device. You can even join in from the comfort of your sofa since TikTok will soon become the first Official Virtual Stage at the Fringe.

If you’re new to the Fringe or just after some more in-depth guidance, your best bet would be to pick up The Skinny’s August issue and Fest, the latter of which publishes four issues between the end of July and August. It’s packed with all things Edinburgh Festivals from reviews to interviews and everything in between, plus – spoiler alert – some incredibly cute pups. Intrigued? Find Fest around Edinburgh weekly during the Fringe for all the finest recommendations across genres.

Edinburgh Film

Raiders of the Lost Ark with RSNO

Edinburgh International Film Festival makes a welcome permanent return to the August festival bonanza

Words: Jamie Dunn

For the last decade or so, Edinburgh cinephiles have had a quiet August. The Edinburgh International Film Festival was first held in 1947, the same year as the International Festival, and both events ran concurrently until 2008, when EIFF spread its wings to a new June slot. But film fans no longer have to look on enviously at the various celebrations of theatre, comedy, dance, opera, literature and music that come to the Scottish capital every August. Last year, a mini-edition of EIFF was welcomed back into the fold, and it looks like film is here to stay.

Overseeing EIFF’s permanent move to August is Kristy Matheson, the festival’s newly appointed Creative Director. “The whole point of moving the festival back to August is really about ensuring that film is central to that broader cultural conversation that happens here every summer,” she says. “Obviously the August festivals are very important to local audiences, but it’s also hugely international. It’s a global gathering of people and talent, and I think it’s really important that film, as an art form, is in that mix.”

At the time of writing the full EIFF programme has yet to be announced, but some details are beginning to emerge. The theme of this year’s festival will look back to 1972, when EIFF presented the first global film event entirely dedicated to the cinematic achievements of women directors. “Honouring that pioneering programme,” says EIFF, “this year’s theme will acknowledge the multiplicity and variety of feminisms in contemporary society across our entire programme.”

We know that EIFF will be split into five strands this year: The Conversation (cinema to get you talking), The Chamber (arthouse cinema for the culturally curious), Heartbreakers (films about friendship, family, lovers, and cheaters), Night Moves (cult, music, late-night thrills), and Postcards From the Edge (bold visions to expand horizons). The annual Michael Powell Award celebrating British cinema is also changing. This year it becomes the

A Quick Guide to Edinburgh Cinemas

Powell & Pressburger Award, and will see five British films competing alongside five international titles.

The festival comes to a close on 20 August with the UK premiere of the gorgeous sci-fi film After Yang, the second feature from Korean-American director Kogonada. “As a huge fan of Kogonada’s previous film Columbus, I could not be happier to be closing the festival with the director’s latest offering,” says Matheson. “After Yang is an exquisite jewel of a film, boasting knockout performances from some of the finest acting talents from Ireland and the UK. I’m sure audiences will share my enthusiasm for this thought-provoking and deeply moving film.”

In addition to After Yang, Kogonada will present a programme of some of the films that have inspired him. There will also be a full retrospective of the films by Japanese director Tanaka Kinuyo. Having acted for celebrated filmmakers like Yasujirō Ozu and Kenji Mizoguchi throughout the 30s and 40s, Kinuyo stepped behind the camera in 1953 with the star-studded drama Love Letter. EIFF will screen Love Letter, plus Kinuyo’s five subsequent features. Filmhouse Everyman

Edinburgh’s premier arthouse cinema, Filmhouse boasts an expertly curated programme of contemporary and classic films from all over the world, with its three cinemas screening an enviable lineup of retrospectives, festivals and themed seasons each month. 88 Lothian Rd

Cameo

Edinburgh’s most iconic cinema, Cameo offers a fine selection of arthouse-leaning films and often throws the odd classic in the mix. The bar is also lovely and well stocked. 38 Home St Edinburgh’s poshest cinema, the newly-opened Everyman screens a mix of mainstream and indie titles, but the main draw is its classy bar and restaurant. For added luxury, there’s table service from the comfort of your cinema seat. St James Quarter

Vue

Edinburgh’s cheapest cinema, Vue is a no-nonsense multiplex chain that screens a wide selection of mainstream and family fare at affordable prices, with tickets starting at £4.99. Omni Centre; Ocean Terminal

Dominion Cineworld

Edinburgh’s prettiest cinema, this gorgeous family run art-deco theatre offers the comfiest viewing experience in town, with lush sofas, ushers who escort you to your seat, and complimentary drinks. 18 Newbattle Ter Edinburgh’s biggest cinema, not just in terms of the number of screens, but size of screens too – it’s home to Edinburgh’s only IMAX. Fountain Park

Photo: Chris Scott

EIFF takes place 12-20 Aug, with the full programme announced 20 Jul

edfilmfest.org.uk

Readers United

As Edinburgh International Book Festival returns with a programme of in-person and streamed events, we pull out a few highlights

Words: Heather McDaid

‘All Together Now’ is the rallying cry of 2022’s Edinburgh International Book Festival. It’s a testament to where we are in our quote unquote return to normal, bringing authors from the world over back to the capital, and inviting readers to join in person and via their streamed events. We know by now what the last two years has taken from us, what has irreversibly changed, so in the spirit of getting together once more, here’s as many highlights we can squeeze in to do just that.

The festival wastes no time: day one, two icons of Scottish

Photo: Sarah Wood fiction – Ali Smith and Val McDermid – delve into the former’s seasonal quartet (13 Aug, 5,30pm), while David Keenan, author of ambitious This Is Memorial Device, discusses his new novel set in that same hallucinatory world (13 Aug, 8.30pm). Mieko Kawakami beams in remotely to traverse her work, including Breasts and Eggs and All the Lovers in the Night (16 Aug, 2.15pm). A literary wonder.

We turn from translation to climate change’s personal and political nature with Jessica Gaitán Johannesson and Amanda Thomson (16 Aug, 2.15pm), before the inimitable Marlon James invites us into his Dark Star trilogy (16 Aug, 7.30pm), following the witch Sogolon, who bows to no man.

The pandemic saw many turn their hand to something new – knitting, baking bread – but comedians Kevin Bridges and Frankie Boyle traded jokes for fiction. A double whammy sees Bridges on The Black Dog, following an aspiring writer hoping to escape everdarkening thoughts (17 Aug, 5.30pm), while Boyle’s thriller Meantime tracks a man trying to find justice for his murdered friend (17 Aug, 8.30pm).

From comedy to music, Britpop legend Pulp’s Jarvis Cocker will revisit his life’s greatest hits so far in Good Pop, Bad Pop (18 Aug, 8.30pm), as acclaimed essayist Sinéad Gleeson, who co-created This Woman’s Work on women who changed the face of music with Kim Gordon, will be joined by contributor Ottessa Moshfegh (24, 8.15pm). PJ Harvey has turned her attention from writing music to penning a long form poem, Orlam, six years in the making, and will be appearing in Central Hall (20 Aug, 9.15pm) in an event supported by The Skinny.

Some of Scotland’s most exciting authors of the last few years will descend: Jenni Fagan talks on witchy historical novella Hex (18 Aug, 4pm), Graeme Macrae Burnet

Image: courtesy of Edinburgh International Book Festival

Books

Oona Dooks, The Gruffalo, Bemz and Festival director Nick Barley

International Book Festival Image: courtesy of Edinburgh

Hollie McNish

moves from Booker-shortlisted His Bloody Project to the psychoanalytical 1960s in Case Study to question truth itself (19 Aug, 1pm), while Chitra Ramaswamy’s Homelands documents the life and friendship of Henry Wuga, who fled Nazi Germany in 1939 (21 Aug, 1pm). Booker winner Douglas Stuart returns to talk Young Mungo, the tale of two boys on opposite sides of the sectarian divide in 1990s Glasgow (28 Aug, 5.30pm). Star Alan Cumming will regale audiences with his most recent book Baggage (21 Aug, 5pm), while Torrey Peters will grace the festival with her presence after last year’s remote event (sponsored by The Skinny), to talk about the sensation Detransition, Baby with Josie Giles (22 Aug, 8pm). Peters also joins Imogen Binnie of the ground-breaking Nevada and Lote’s Shola von Reinhold to discuss a golden age of trans fiction (24 Aug, 8pm). and Charlotte Church (24 Aug, 7pm).

Poetry is there in abundance too with some linguistic brilliance: Jazz Money and Andrés N Ordorica (13 Aug, 6.15pm), Alycia Pirmohamed and Jay Gao (13 Aug, 6.30pm), Raymond Antrobus (19 Aug, 12.15pm), Ada Limón (23 Aug, 5:30pm), Hollie McNish and Joelle Taylor (23 Aug, 7pm), and Hannah Lavery (26 Aug, 12.15pm), to name but a few.

Contemporary powerhouse Ottessa Moshfegh, author of My Year of Rest and Relaxation, will transport readers to the feudalist village beset by natural disasters in Lapvona (23 Aug, 5pm). Another sparkling event will be the celebration of Michael Pedersen’s prose debut Boy Friends, a love letter to male friendship, alongside Garbage’s Shirley Manson, With more opportunities to get all together again — whether in-person at their new College of Art venue, or digitally tuning in to catch something special — there’s plenty to choose from at this year’s Edinburgh International Book Festival. Let’s celebrate.

Edinburgh International Book Festival runs 13-29 Aug

The World Stage

As ever, Edinburgh International Festival are bringing a fantastic selection of opera, theatre, dance and music to the Scottish capital this summer

Words: Jamie Dunn

Photo: Eryk Lyudun

Edinburgh International Festival is back with a world-class offering of opera, theatre, dance and classical and contemporary music. Festivities kick off on 6 August at Murrayfield with MACRO, a free night of contemporary circus from Aussie troupe Gravity & Other Myths, plus a cross-cultural musical collaboration between Djuki Mala and five Celtic musicians.

The EIF contemporary music programme will be back at Leith Theatre and features an eye-watering selection of boundary-pushing artists from all over the globe. Among them are Scottish cult indie rock duo Arab Strap (19 Aug); visionary London jazz quartet Sons of Kemet (14 Aug); legendary Detroit techno DJ Jeff Mills (11 Aug); New York rapper Princess Nokia (17 Aug); Afro-French Cuban duo Ibeyi (18 Aug); and Romanian folk music supergroup Taraf de Caliu (10 Aug). Breaking away from Leith Theatre, jazz icon Herbie Hancock (7 Aug) needs a slightly bigger venue; he’s performing at the Playhouse.

EIF regular Alan Cumming will be back in the Scottish capital, this time taking on the role of Robert Burns in Burn (4-10 Aug, King’s Theatre). We’re told to expect a dance-theatre show that challenges the shortbread tin image of our Bard and goes beyond his poetry to examine his complex inner and outer life.

Princess Nokia The great dancer and choreographer Akram Khan presents Jungle Book Reimagined (25-28 Aug, Festival Theatre), which reinvents the journey of Mowgli through the eyes of a climate refugee. There is more art exploring the refugee experience in Refuge, a season of contemporary theatre, dance, visual art, film and conversation created in collaboration with the Scottish Refugee Council.

There’s the usual mix of world-class orchestras and classical musicians coming to Usher Hall and The Queen’s Hall, and composer Jon Hopkins teams up with leading neuroscientists to leads audiences through a unique environment of colour and light in Dreamachine ((13 Aug-25 Sep, Murrayfield Ice Rink). The above is just the tip of the iceberg of artists and shows coming to EIF this summer.

If you want to break away from the traditional theatre auditorium, there’s an opportunity to journey into the various spaces of Leith Academy for the intriguing site-specific piece Muster Station: Leith (15-26 Aug, Leith Academy), from innovative Edinburgh theatre company Grid Iron.

Edinburgh International Festival, 5-28 Aug

See You Down the Front!

Edinburgh’s creative charm makes it home to a number of super cool music and club spots fit for all of your artistic needs. Let us be your tour guide as we ramble through the top spots the capital has to offer

Words: Jamie Wilde

Let’s start off in the Cowgate area of the city’s Old Town where a tasty number of venues are located just a hop, skip and a jump from one another. Sneaky Pete’s (73 Cowgate) is no stranger to packed crowds come show time. The awardwinning, 100-ish capacity venue offers the perfect melting pot for gigs of all kinds to take place as well as local club nights which run seven days a week. Formerly known as Opium, right next door to Sneaky’s you’ll find Legends (71 Cowgate). This place channels more of a dive bar feel with sweaty gigs often taking place in its upstairs venue, and rockaoke every Monday.

A little more than a stone’s throw down the road, Bannermans (212 Cowgate) is a whisky bar and raucous rock venue with a super-cool cavernous music space. Take a few steps across the road and La Belle Angele (11 Hastie’s Cl) will be in your midst. This nightclub has been an Edinburgh institution since the early 90s, despite a fire in the early 00s nearly wiping it from existence – the space might not be what it once was, but the spirit of La Belle lives on. Expect electro, house, techno and slices of hip-hop here, and sometimes Swiftogeddon (13 Aug). Yes, that is a night dedicated solely to the hits of

Photo: Martyna Maz

Black Midi live at The Liquid Room

Taylor Swift. The Mash House (37 Guthrie St) is also conveniently located nearby. Here you’ll find some of the best up-and-coming bands as well as club nights across its three floors, championing some of the best local DJs Edinburgh has to offer.

A few minutes in either direction you’ll find The Caves (8-10 Niddry St) and The Bongo Club (66 Cowgate), both of which are well worth a visit. The Caves is made up of the substructure of Edinburgh’s 18th century South Bridge and has recently welcomed the likes of Yard Act, while Bongo offers another top spot for late night revellers with monthly and weekly club nights charting sounds from Europe to Jamaica. The Banshee Labyrinth (29-35 Niddry St) is a must-visit if you're a wannabe Ghostbuster – it’s self-confessed as Scotland’s most haunted pub making the occasional gigs here that extra bit spooky. Finally, The Liquid Room (9C Victoria St) has been known for attracting top touring bands since the late 90s and clubbing also works a treat here.

If you’re after a change of scenery why not head for some of the city’s grander venues and arts spaces. Located near the University of Edinburgh in the Southside, a venture to Summerhall (1 Summerhall) will go down a treat; this forward-thinking, sustainable venue is all about bringing together creative minds. Its year-round programme of events is chock-full of creative goodness and its sleek Edinburgh Festival Fringe programme is poised and ready to go this August. Also in the area you’ll find The Queen’s Hall (85-89 Clerk St), originally built as a chapel before being converted into a 900-capacity live music venue. Find diverse programme schedules here that will impress all ages.

Photo: Kate Johnston

Formerly known as The Edinburgh Corn Exchange, and also in the west of the city, the O2 Academy Edinburgh (11 New Market Rd) can’t be left out of this extensive list. Some of the biggest touring acts regularly visit here and a short bus journey from the heart of the capital will get you here in a flash.

Key Live Dates:

Pixies O2 Academy Edinburgh, 3 Aug

Mdou Moctar The Liquid Room, 16 Aug

Princess Nokia Leith Theatre, 17 Aug

Cate Le Bon Summrhall, 17 Aug

Swim School @ The Mash House

In Leith, Leith Theatre (28-30 Ferry Rd) is the main venue for the Edinburgh International Festival’s contemporary programme in August. Reopened in 2017, after almost 30 years closed, a trip to Leith wouldn’t be complete without stopping by the arts and community venue. Over in the West End, meanwhile, Usher Hall (Lothian Rd) is one of Edinburgh’s grandest venues, handily located a short walk from Princes Street. The Edwardian building welcomes everyone from orchestras to rock bands and if you book your ticket ahead, names like Fleet Foxes, Public Service Broadcasting and Angel Olsen can be yours to see here very soon.

If you fancy some music in Edinburgh’s New Town, The Voodoo Rooms (19A West Register St) is well worth a look in. Sip on some classy cocktails here all the while checking out its opulently decorated interior and listening to musicians old and new on any given night in its Ballroom and Speakeasy spaces. On one of the city centre’s main shopping thoroughfares you’ll find Assembly Rooms (54 George St). While it doesn’t offer a full music programme, whenever there is a concert on here your experience will feel that bit more grandiose.

Whether you’re visiting Edinburgh for a weekend or are a local looking to explore some of the city’s coolest music and club spots, this guide should hopefully see you right. There’s something for everyone here; a chilled gig or some high intensity sweaty action into the late hours can be catered to your fullest desires. See you down the front! Fleet Foxes Usher Hall, 30 Aug

Coach Party Sneaky Pete’s, 14 Sep

Babeheaven The Voodoo Rooms, 15 Sep

Katy J Pearson The Voodoo Rooms, 20 Sep

Jockstrap The Mash House, 29 Sep

SOAK The Caves, 10 Oct

GZA The Queen’s Hall, 13 Oct

Angel Olsen Usher Hall, 20 Oct

Lime Garden Sneaky Pete’s, 9 Nov

Abbeyhill A

Leith L New Town NT Old Town OT Portobello P Southside S

West End WE

Tollcross, Bruntsfield, Morningside TBM Gorgie, Dalry, Fountainbridge GDF

Stockbridge, Canonmills SC

Art Shops

Doodles 27 Marchmont Cres TBM Edinburgh Art Shop 129 Lauriston Pl TBM Flamingosaurus Rex 22 Bruntsfield Pl TBM Greyfriars Art Shop 1 Greyfriars OT Red Door Gallery 42 Victoria St OT The Leith Collective Ocean Terminal L

Bars

Abode 229 Leith Walk L Athletic Arms 1 Angle Park Ter GDF Bacco 136 Dundas St SC Bannermans 212 Cowgate OT Banshee Labyrinth 29-35 Niddry St OT Barony Bar 81-85 Broughton St NT Bellfield Brewery Taproom 46 Stanley Pl A Bennets Bar 8 Leven St TBM Bittersweet 24 Henderson St L Bow Bar 80 W Bow OT Bramble 16A Queen St NT Brass Monkey 14 Drummond St S Cafe Royal 19 West Register St NT Carriers Quarters 42 Bernard St L CC Blooms 23 Greenside Pl A City Cafe 19 Blair St OT Clark’s Bar 142 Dundas St SC Cloisters 26 Brougham St TBM Dagda 93 Buccleuch St S Deacon Brodies 435 Lawnmarket OT Decanter 183 Bruntsfield Pl TBM Devil’s Advocate 9 Advocate’s Cl OT Dragonfly 52 West Port OT Dreadnought 72 N Fort St L Forresters Guild 40 Portobello High St P Good Brothers Wine Bar 4-6 Dean St SC Hectors 47-49 Deanhaugh St SC Hey Palu 49 Bread St WE Innis and Gunn 81 Lothian Rd WE Jolly Botanist 256 Morrison St WE Joseph Pearce 23 Elm Row A Kay’s Bar 39 Jamaica St NT Lady Libertine 25 W Register St NT Leith Depot 138-140 Leith Walk L Little Rascal 113D St John’s Rd GDF Lucky Liquor Co 39a Queen St NT Nauticus 142 Duke St L Nightcap 3 York Pl NT NQ64 25 Lothian Rd WE Old Eastway Tap 218 Easter Rd L One Canonmills 1 Canonmills SC OX184 184-186 Cowgate OT Panda & Sons 79 Queen St NT Paolozzi Restaurant & Bar 59-61 Forrest Rd S Paradise Palms 41 Lothian St S Pickles 60 Broughton St NT Port O’ Leith 58 Constitution St L Portobello Tap 87 Portobello High St P Rooftop 51 2 Freer Gait GDF Safari Lounge 21 Cadzow Pl A Salt Horse 57-61 Blackfriars St OT Smith & Gertrude 26 Hamilton Pl SC Smoke & Mirrors 159 Constitution St L St Vincent 11 St Vincent St SC Stockbridge Tap 2-6 Raeburn Pl SC Teuchters 26 William St WE Teuchters Landing 1c Dock Pl L The Abbotsford 3-5 Rose St NT The Antiquary 72-78 St Stephen St SC The Auld Hoose 23 St Leonards St S The Bailie 2-4 St Stephen St SC The Biscuit Factory 4-6 Anderson Pl L The Black Rose Tavern 49 Rose St NT The Blackbird 37 Leven St TBM The Blue Blazer 2 Spittal St WE The Bullfinch 2-4 Bath Rd L The Caley Sample Room 42 Angle Park Ter GDF The Cumberland 1-3 Cumberland St NT The Dog House 18 Clerk St S The Espy 62 Bath St P The Fountain 131 Dundee St GDF The Hanging Bat 133 Lothian Road WE The High Dive Bar 81/85 St. Leonard’s St S The Last Word Saloon 44 St Stephen St SC The Lioness of Leith 21 Duke St L The Mousetrap 180 Leith Walk L The Outhouse 12a Broughton St Lane NT The Persevere Bar 398 Easter Rd L The Royal Dick 1 Summerhall S The Sheep Heid Inn 43 The Causeway A The Skylark 243 Portobello High St P The Street 2b Picardy Pl NT The Tourmalet 25 Buchanan St A The Ventoux 2 Brougham St TBM The Voodoo Rooms 19a W Register St NT The Waverley Bar 3-5 St Mary’s St OT The Wee Vault 7A W Maitland St WE The Windsor 45 Elm Row A Under the Stairs 3A Merchant St OT

Bookshops

Argonaut Books 15-17 Leith Walk L Armchair Books 72-74 West Port OT Edinburgh Books 145 West Port WE Ginger and Pickles 51 St Stephen St SC Golden Hare 68 St Stephen St SC Lighthouse Books 43 W Nicolson St S Oxfam Books 25 Raeburn Pl SC The Edinburgh Bookshop 219 Bruntsfield Pl TBM The Portobello Bookshop 46 Portobello High St P Tills Bookshop 1 Hope Park Cres S Typewronger Books 4a Haddington Pl A

101 Bakery 101 Newington Rd S Artisan Coffee 274 Leith Walk L Artisan Roast 72-74 Leith Walk L Artisan Roast 138 Bruntsfield Pl TBM Artisan Roast 57 Broughton St NT Artisan Roast 100a Raeburn Pl SC Bakery Andante 8 N Leith Sands L Bearded Baker 46 Rodney St SC Cafe Gallo 96 Raeburn Pl SC Cairngorm Coffee 1 Melville Pl WE Cairngorm Coffee 41a Frederick St NT Coffee Tepuy 2 Crighton Pl A Considerit 3 Sciennes S Cowan & Sons 33 Raeburn Pl SC Crazy Croissant 5 Bernard St L Cult Espresso 104 Buccleuch St S Domenico’s 30 Sandport St L Don’t Tell Mama 64 Home St TBM Fauna 19a Queensferry St WE Fortitude 3c York Pl NT Fortitude 66 Hamilton Pl SC Gordon Street Coffee 6 Market St OT Grams Hamilton Pl SC Hata 5 Rodney St SC Hideout Cafe 40-42 Queen Charlotte St L Hula 94A Fountainbridge GDF Hula Cafe and Juice Bar 103 West Bow OT Kilimanjaro Coffee 104 Nicolson St S KONJ Cafe 67 Home St TBM Krema 21 Leith Walk L Kukina 356 Leith Walk L Kvasa 101 Leith Walk L La Barantine 27b Raeburn Pl SC Little Fitzroy 46 Easter Rd A Lovecrumbs 155 West Port WE Lowdown Coffee 40 George St NT Machina Espresso 32-38 Marchmont Rd TBM Mario Patisserie 27 Henderson Gardens L Milk @ Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop 21 Hawthornvale L Mimi’s 63 Shore L Nice Times Bakery 147 Morrison St WE Procaffeination 4 St Mary’s St OT Room and Rumours 25 East Market Street Arch OT Seb’s Urban Jungle 187-189 Leith Walk L Seven Neighbourhood Cafe 7 Home St TBM Söderberg 3 Deanhaugh St SC Tanifiki 44 Portobello High St P Tasty Buns 67 Bread St WE The Milkman 7, 52 Cockburn St OT The Pastry Section 86 Raeburn Pl SC The Source 4 Spittal St WE Thomas J Walls 35 Forrest Rd S Union Brew Lab 6 S College St S Wellington Coffee 33a George St NT Williams and Johnson 1 Customs Wharf L

Cinemas

Cameo Cinema 38 Home St TBM Cineworld 130/3 Dundee St, Fountain Park GDF Dominion Cinema 18 Newbattle Ter TBM Everyman 502 Edinburgh St James NT

Vue Ocean Terminal 98 Ocean Dr L Vue Omni Centre 61/11 Greenside Pl NT Filmhouse 88 Lothian Rd WE

Clothes Shops

Godiva 9 West Port OT W. Armstrong & Son 81-83 Grassmarket OT W. Armstrong & Son 14 Teviot Pl, 64 Clerk St S Pieute 19 Candlemaker Row OT

Food and Drink Shops

Aemilia 186 Portobello High St P Akdeniz Mediterranean Supermarket 82-90 Leith Walk L Beer Zoo 219 Portobello High St P Beets 49 Bernard St L Bon Vivant’s Companion 51 Thistle St NT Broughton Market 97 Broughton St NT Cornelius 18 Easter Rd A Drinkmonger 11 Bruntsfield Pl TBM EasyEche Foods Limited 131 Great Jct St L Edwin and Irwyn 416 Morningside Rd TBM Fruttivendolo 110A Dalry Rd GDF George Mewes 3 Dean Park St SC Great Grog Bottle Shop 2 Dalkeith Rd S I.J. Mellis 330 Morningside Rd TBM I.J. Mellis 6 Bakers Pl SC Jordan Valley 8 Nicolson St S Lupe Pintos 24 Leven St TBM Real Foods 37 Broughton St NT Sauce 23 Candlemaker Row OT SPRY Wines 1 Haddington Pl A

The Beer Cave 43 Dalry Rd GDF The Beerhive 24 Rodney St SC Valvona + Crolla 19 Elm Row A Vino 30 Broughton St NT Vino 26 NW Circus Pl SC Winekraft 6 Brandon Terr SC

Galleries

Agitate 20 Haymarket Ter WE Burns Monument 1759 Regent Rd OT City Art Centre 2 Market St OT Collective Calton Hill A Dovecot Studios 10 Infirmary St S Edinburgh Printmakers 1 Dundee St GDF Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop 21 Hawthornvale L Fruitmarket 45 Market St OT Ingleby Gallery 33 Barony St NT Institut Français Ecosse W Parliament Sq OT Inverleith House Arboretum Pl SC Jupiter Artland Bonnington House, Wilkieston n/a Ltd Ink Corporation 77 Brunswick St A Mote 102 102 Ferry Rd L National Galleries of Scotland The Mound NT National Galleries of Scotland Modern One & Two 73, 75 Belford Rd WE Royal Scottish Academy The Mound NT Scottish National Portrait Gallery 1 Queen St NT

Sierra Metro 13-15 Ferry Rd L Stills 23 Cockburn St OT Surgeons’ Hall Nicolson St S Talbot Rice Gallery South Bridge S The Scottish Gallery 16 Dundas St NT

Gift Shops

An Independent Zebra 88-92 Raeburn Pl SC Black Moon Botanica 50 Candlemaker Row OT Caoba 56 Raeburn Pl SC Curiouser and Curiouser 106 Bruntsfield Pl TBM Delicate Rébellion 21 East Market St OT Handsel 336 Leith Walk L Logan Malloch 13 Leith Walk L MYSA 31 Cockburn St OT Paper Tiger 53 Lothian Rd, 6a Stafford St WE Pie in the Sky 47 Cockburn St OT Pippin 30 Haymarket Ter WE

Markets

Company Bakery 5 Devon Pl WE Edinburgh Farmers’ Market NCP Car Park, Castle Ter OT Grassmarket Saturday Market Grassmarket OT Leith Arches 6 Manderston St L Leith Market Dock Pl L Stockbridge Market Saunders St SC The Pitt 137 Pitt St L

On-the-go

Bross Bagels 177 Portobello High St P Cafe Piccante 19 Broughton St NT Civerinos Prom Slice 47 Figgate Ln P Crolla’s 1 The Shore L Greek Artisan Pastries 32 Portobello High St P Little Collingwood 10 Haymarket Ter WE

Little Green Van Portobello Beach Promenade P Mary’s Milk Bar 19 Grassmarket OT MOO Pie Gelato 26 St Mary’s St OT Ola Kala 202 Morrison St WE Orinoco Latin Street Food 281 Leith Walk L Piemaker 38 South Bridge OT Polentoni 38 Easter Rd A Preachers Patisserie 24 Lady Lawson St WE Sicilian Pastry Shop 14 Albert St A St Andrews Takeaway 280 Portobello High St P Storries 279 Leith Walk L The Baked Potato Shop 56 Cockburn St OT The Fishmarket 23A Pier Pl L Twelve Triangles 22 Easter Rd A Twelve Triangles 300 Portobello High St P

Plants and Homeware

Duncan & Reid Antiques 5 Tanfield SC Grow Urban 92 Grove St GDF Pascal & Co. 20 Albert Pl L

Shelter 104 Raeburn Pl SC Snapdragon 146 Bruntsfield Pl TBM The Bethany Shop 46 Hamilton Pl SC

Record Shops

Assai Records 1 Grindlay St WE Elvis Shakespeare 347 Leith Walk L FOPP 3-15 Rose St NT Good Vibes Records and Books 151 Constitution St L Greenhouse Records 10 Barclay Ter TBM Ilium 100 Marchmont Cres TBM Oxfam Music 64 Raeburn Pl SC Thorne Records 125 Bruntsfield Pl TBM Underground Solu’shn 9 Cockburn St OT Vinyl Villains 5 Elm Row A VoxBox Music 21 St Stephen St SC

Restaurants

Alby’s 8 Portland Ter L Aurora 187 Great Junction St L B&D’s Kitchen 214 Dalry Rd GDF Bell’s Diner 7 St Stephen St SC Bodega 14 Albert Pl A Bonnie & Wild St James Quarter NT 415-417 St James Square Bread Meats Bread 92 Lothian Rd WE Bross Bagels Deli St James 4 Little King St NT Bubba Q 213 High St OT Bundits 48-52 Constitution St L Cafe Pomelo 21c Strathearn Rd TBM Chez Jules 109 Hanover St NT Civerinos 5 Hunter Sq OT Civerinos Slice 49 Forrest Rd S Desi Pakwan 61 Leith Walk L Down the Hatch 13 Antigua St A Dumplings of China 60 Home St TBM Earls Burger Co. 74 Raeburn Pl SC El Cartel 15 Teviot Pl S El Cartel 64 Thistle St NT El Cartel 1 Roxburgh’s Court OT Eleanore 30-31 Albert Pl A Erbil 55 W Nicolson St S Fhior 36 Broughton St NT Fishers in the City 58 Thistle St NT Hakataya 122 Rose St Lane NT Hanam’s 3 Johnston Terrace OT Harajuku Kitchen 10 Gillespie Pl TBM Harmonium 7-11 East London St NT Hendersons 7-13 Barclay Pl TBM Heron 87, 91A Henderson St L Ikigai Ramen 13 W Crosscauseway S Ka Pao St James Quarter NT Kenji 24 Deanhaugh St SC Kim’s Bulgogi 11 St Stephen St SC Kim’s Mini Meals 5 Buccleuch St S Korean BBQ 3 Tarvit St TBM Locanda de Gusti 102 Dalry Rd GDF Maki & Ramen St James Quarter NT Maki & Ramen 97 Fountainbridge GDF Malvarosa 262 Portobello High St P Mia Italian Kitchen 96 Dalry Rd GDF Mother India’s Cafe 3 Infirmary St OT Nile Valley Cafe 6 Chapel St S Nok’s Kitchen 8 Gloucester St SC Noto 47a Thistle St NT Novapizza 42 Howe St SC Omar Khayyam

1 Grosvenor St WE On Bap 57 Clerk St S Ong Gie 22a Brougham St TBM Origano Pizza 236 Leith Walk L Pizzeria 1926 85 Dalry Rd GDF Razzo Pizza Napoletana 59 Great Jct St L Rokko Rokko Desu 112 St Stephen St SC Shrimpwreck 44 Figgate Ln P Sabzi 162 Ferry Rd L Sando at The High Dive Bar 81/85 St. Leonard’s St Sister Bao 32 S Clerk St S STACK 42 Dalmeny St L Superico 83 Hanover St NT Taco Libre 3 Shandwick Pl WE Taxidi 6 Brougham St TBM Taza in Town 69 Bread St WE Thailander 25 Brougham St TBM The Gardener’s Cottage 1 London Rd A The Little Chartroom 14 Bonnington Rd L The Mosque Kitchen 50 Potterrow S The Outsider 15 George IV Bridge OT The Pantry 1 NW Circus Pl SC The Shawarma House 119 Nicolson St S The Smiddy BBQ 22 Dunedin St SC Three Birds 3 Viewforth TBM Timberyard 10 Lady Lawson St WE Ting Thai Caravan 8 Teviot Pl S Ting Thai Caravan 55 Lothian Rd WE Umai 6 Queensferry St WE Vietnam House 1 Grove St WE Viva Mexico 41 Cockburn St OT Wine & Peach 91 Dalry Rd GDF Wing Sing Inn 147 Dundee St GDF Wings 5-7 Old Fishmarket Cl OT Xiangbala Hotpot 63 Dalry Rd GDF Yamato 11 Lochrin Ter TBM

Venues: August Festivals

Assembly George Square Gardens George Sq S Assembly Roxy 2 Roxburgh Pl S Central Hall 2 W Tollcross TBM EIBF @ Edinburgh College of Art 74 Lauriston Pl TBM Festival Theatre 13 Nicolson St S Filmhouse 88 Lothian Rd WE Hanover Tap 112 Hanover St NT Leith Theatre 28-30 Ferry Rd L Monkey Barrel 9-11 Blair St OT Murrayfield Stadium Roseburn St GDF O2 Academy Edinburgh 11 New Market Rd GDF Pleasance Courtyard 60 Pleasance S Pleasance @ EICC 150 Morrison St WE Scottish Storytelling Centre 43-45 High St OT Summerhall 1 Summerhall S Theatre Big Top Festival Sq WE TheSpace Triplex 19 Hill Pl S The Hive 15-17 Niddry St OT The Stand Comedy Club 5 York Pl NT Underbelly @ Bristo Square Bristo Pl S Underbelly @ George Square Gardens George Sq S

Venues: Comedy Clubs

Monkey Barrel 9-11 Blair St OT The Stand Comedy Club 5 York Pl NT

Venues: Live Music & Nightclubs

Bannermans 212 Cowgate OT Cabaret Voltaire 36-38 Blair St OT La Belle Angele 11 Hastie’s Cl OT Legends 71 Cowgate OT Leith Depot 138-140 Leith Walk L Leith Theatre 28-30 Ferry Rd L Sneaky Pete’s 73 Cowgate OT Stramash 207 Cowgate OT Subway 69 Cowgate OT Summerhall 1 Summerhall Pl S The Banshee Labyrinth 29-35 Niddry St OT The Caves 8-10 Niddry St S OT The Hive 15-17 Niddry St OT The Liquid Room 9C Victoria St OT The Mash House 37 Guthrie St OT The Queen’s Hall 85 Clerk St S Usher Hall Lothian Rd WE Whistlebinkies 4-6 South Bridge OT

Venues: Theatre & Dance

Dance Base 14-16 Grassmarket OT Edinburgh Playhouse 18-22 Greenside Pl A EICC 150 Morrison St WE Festival Theatre 13 Nicolson St S King’s Theatre 2 Leven St TBM The Lyceum 30b Grindlay St WE Traverse Theatre 10 Cambridge St WE

Visitor Attractions

Canongate Kirk 153 Canongate OT Castlehill Castlehill OT Dynamic Earth Holyrood Rd OT Edinburgh Castle Castlehill OT Edinburgh Dungeon 31 Market St OT Edinburgh Gin Distillery 1a Rutland Pl WE Edinburgh Zoo 134 Corstorphine Rd GDF Greyfriars Kirk and Greyfriars Bobby Candlemaker Row OT Love Gorgie Farm 51 Gorgie Rd GDF Museum of Childhood 42 High St OT National Museum of Scotland Chambers St S Palace of Holyroodhouse Canongate OT Princes Street Gardens Princes St NT Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh Arboretum Pl SC Royal Yacht Britannia Ocean Dr L Scotch Whisky Experience The Royal Mile OT Scottish Parliament Canongate OT Scottish Storytelling Centre 43-45 High St OT St Giles Cathedral High St OT The Real Mary King’s Close High St OT Volcano Falls 130 Dundee St GDF

Edinburgh on Screen Edinburgh on Screen

With its cobbled streets and Gothic architecture, Edinburgh is a dream for filmmakers. Here are four local favourites to return to that make great use of the various sides of the city

Words: Jamie Dunn

Cool Edinburgh: Trainspotting

British cinema is a lot of things, but you’d never describe it as cool. But that all changed with the arrival of Danny Boyle’s wildly inventive adaptation of Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting. From its blistering opening scene of Ewan McGregor running at full pelt down Princes Street while Iggy Pop’s Lust for Life blares on the soundtrack, Trainspotting delivers a nervy hit of adrenaline that’s as potent as any drug. Pervy Edinburgh: Hallam Foe

Edinburgh has a seedy side, no doubt (all those saunas aren’t for taking a shvitz). It’s never been better explored than in David Mackenzie’s adult fairytale Hallam Foe. Jamie Bell plays the titular messed up teen peeping tom, who scrambles across Old Town rooftops to spy on a woman who is the doppelgänger of his mother. It’s basically Scotland’s Vertigo, but even more twisted.

Elegiac Edinburgh: The Illusionist

Edinburgh has never looked so beautiful than through the pen of French animator Sylvain Chomet. Chomet fell in love with the city while attending the Edinburgh Film Festival and was inspired to change the location of this unproduced Jacques Tati script he was planning to adapt. The Illusionist overflows with Tati’s brand of droll slapstick but the real star is the faded glamour of Auld Reekie.

Sentimental Edinburgh:

Sunshine on Leith

If you’re looking for a heart on sleeve love letter to Edinburgh, look no further than Dexter Fletcher’s Proclaimers musical Sunshine on Leith. The Reid brothers’ songs are one-the-nose but appropriately rousing use, and the big setpieces make great use of Edinburgh locations like the Royal Mile, Arthur’s Seat and The Mound. Prepare for a lump in your throat and to have a goofy smile on your face.