15 minute read
Where to Eat and Drink
from Fest Preview 2019
by The Skinny
Cafes
Artisan Roast
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57 Broughton St, 138 Bruntsfield Pl @artisanroast
Artisan Roast are very serious about their coffee, but for that you will be very grateful as you sip one of the best flat whites the whole of the UK has to offer. If you’re not serious about your coffee, AR will convert you to the winning team.
Baba Budan
1 Cranston St @bababudancoffee
Parked right across from Waverley, Baba Budan is perfect for a straight-off-the-train sugar boost. Doughnuts are the main draw, coming in a host of exciting flavours and combinations; grab one with a coffee, and get fueled up for a day of show-hopping.
Detour Espresso
39 Argyle Pl @detourespresso
Sat pretty much halfway down the Meadows, Detour serve up an excellent cup of coffee in a light and airy space ideal for a preshow pitstop.
Fieldwork
105 Fountainbridge @fieldworkcafe
All dark wood, exposed brickwork and old school desks, Fieldwork specialise in delicious cakes and pastries, coffee from the fantastic Steampunk roastery, and generating a thoroughly relaxed ambience.
Forest Cafe
141 Lauriston Pl
Leo Kearse
Transgressive, 31 Jul–25 Aug, 9:15pm
Scotland has some of the worst food on the planet (square sausage, deep fried pizza, the munchie box) but there are some gems in Edinburgh. OX184 on Cowgate is a bit pricey but open really late for food, and it’s got a relaxed atmosphere. The chicken wings are amazing. Kampong Ah Lee is a Malaysian restaurant on Clerk Street that does delicious invigorating bowls of laksa for a reasonable price. And comedians who use Wetherspoons as a euphemism for scuzzy low grade nightlife clearly aren’t taking advantage of steak Tuesday. A large, fully edible steak and trimmings with a pint of beer for around the 10 pound mark. Treat yourself!
Brew Lab
6-8 South College St @BrewLabCoffee
Great coffee, outrageous sandwiches and soups, and cakes and teas from some of Edinburgh’s best producers all find a home at Brew Lab, with a strong wine and beer game thrown in as well.
Cult Espresso
104 Buccleuch St @cultcoffeeedin
A welcome sanctuary from the Fringe, this split-level coffee shop just down from Summerhall pairs a stripped-back aesthetic with expertly-crafted coffees and a small but perfectly-formed food menu.
Having been booted from their former home a few years back, the Forest’s crew of volunteers have taken up residence in Tollcross and turned this former corner shop into a vibrant arts space. Expect art, music, poetry and anything else that comes to mind in the freest venue in the city.
Fortitude Coffee
3c York Pl @FortitudeCoffee
In Fringe terms, Fortitude is a perfect fit – brilliant coffee, delicious sandwiches and brilliant cakes from local heroes Lovecrumbs, all on the literal doorstep of The Stand. Seriously, it’s right next door.
Hula
103-105 West Bow, 94A Fountainbridge @ hulajuicebar
Bright and breezy, Hula does a great line in fresh fruit juices with exotic and outrageous blends that you never would have considered, as well as great coffee and exciting food.
Lovecrumbs
155 West Port @hellolovecrumbs
An inventive sweet and savoury menu, tables made from old pianos, and an actual window seat give Lovecrumbs an anarchic air that turns the act of going for coffee into an adventure.
Lowdown Coffee
40 George St @coffeelowdown
A small but perfectly-formed Scandi-style basement beneath George Street, Lowdown is a calming environment from which to escape the madness of the street above.
Loudons
94B Fountainbridge, 2 Sibbald Walk @Loudons_edin
If you like brunch, you’re in for a treat; Loudons specialise in the stuff. Hungover Fringegoers rejoice at the many, many ways these guys can prepare an egg. So many! So many eggs!
Williams and Johnson
3 Waverley Bridge @wjcoffee
The Leith roasters supply many of the city centre’s best cafes, and now they run one as well – hit their cool and minimal space on top of Waverley Mall for an excellent flat white.
Pubs & Bars
The Auld Hoose
23-25 St Leonard’s St @TheAuldHoose
A cross-breed of ‘old man pub’ and ‘rock bar’, this Newington pub covers both bases in style. Slick decor, a good drinks selection and ridiculous bowls of nachos await.
Bannerman's
202 Cowgate @BannermansBar
The back room of Bannerman's is one the favourite haunts of the city’s rockers, but the main bar is a much more laid-back environment. It’s cheap, there’s plenty of space, and it’s right in the centre of town.
Blue Blazer
2 Spittal St @blueblazeredin
A ‘proper’ Edinburgh pub, in the best possible sense. Boasting one of the finest selections of real ales, whiskies and rums in the capital, the Blue Blazer’s walls have seen it all.
Bramble
16a Queen St @BrambleBar
Machina Espresso
2 Brougham Pl, 80 Nicholson St @MachinaEspresso
Machina roast their own beans, so they know what they’re about. Pair a coffee with a pastry or enormous sandwich, and consider yourself ready for a day of shows.
Brass Monkey
14 Drummond St @brassmonkeybar
Tucked in between the Pleasance and the Bridges, Brass Monkey matches a great location with a relaxed atmosphere. Much of that comes from the mini-cinema in the back room, packed with squishy cushions.
Camera
74 Clerk St
In need of a Fringe hideaway, right next to some big venues but tucked away where the flyers and embittered reviewers can’t get to you? Camera is the place – a hip subterranean cocktail bar right round the corner from Summerhall.
Hannah Moss
The Rebirth of Meadow Rain, Pleasance Courtyard, 31 Jul–26 Aug, not 7, 14, 1pm
There’s a chocolate shop on Morningside called The Chocolate Tree, it does great ice cream too! Manna House bakery in Easter Road is also great, it’s part of a line of independent shops and bars which is a nice little escape and on the way to Portobello.
Arguably the city’s finest cocktail bar, and certainly one of the venues that elevated Auld Reekie into the global cocktail conversation. It’s dark, the hip-hop bumps loud from the speakers, and the drinks are beautiful.
Matt Price
Rigatoni’s pizza restaurant on Clerk Street. The guy who owns it is hugely entertaining. He took a selfie on my phone last year and danced around the restaurant, bantering with the customers. He also looks like a member of the Italian mafia, which fits with the theme of my show this year. If you’re a performer, get away on your day off and go to the beach and have fish and chips.
The City Cafe
19 Blair St @thecitycafe
If you’ve ever dreamt of going to an American diner in the 1950s, well... you can’t. Sorry. Luckily, The City Cafe is a pretty good alternative, with its chessboard-style floor and leather and chrome booths.
Cloisters
26 Brougham St @Cloisters_Bar
Set into the side of a church, this pub is packed with period features. A huge selection of beers and ales and always lively atmosphere make Cloisters a great spot for a pre- or post-show pint.
Cold Town House
4 Grassmarket
They’ve got a bar on the roof. Cold Town House is a three-floor hive of drinks, food and fun times, but its unquestionable ace in the hole is its rooftop terrace with views of the Castle. When it stops raining, get yourself up there.
Dagda
93 Buccleuch St
A cracking real ale bar that’s also the size of a large living room, Dagda is a place to rediscover your convivial spirit over a pint. Grab one of the lovely booths if you can.
Fierce Beer Bar
167 Rose St @fiercebeer
The Aberdonian brewery have taken up residence at the west end of Rose Street, with their new bar serving up some craft beer realness. Lots of taps, plenty of exciting limited-run beers, and some comfy chairs await.
The Hanging Bat
133 Lothian Rd @TheHangingBat
A huge and ever-changing range of some of the best beers from all over the world, a mini-brewery at the back and super knowledgeable bar staff make this the place to go to get your ‘serious beer’ on during the Fringe.
Salt Horse
57-61 Blackfriars Street @salthorsebar
Salt Horse features what may be one of the most comprehensive beer selections in the capital. It’s a brilliantly eclectic and impressively dense range that will literally take you the whole month to work through.
Six Degrees North
24 Howe St, @sixdnorthedin
A New Town setting for a Belgianinspired Stonehaven-based brewery pub – sounds confusing, but if you’re into your craft beer these guys will see you right. Dozens of taps await.
Ventoux
2 Brougham St
Inspired by the Tour de France mountain of the same name, this Tollcross bar is a lovely local hangout that’s filled with fish tanks on the shelves, bikes hanging from the ceiling, and an impressive host of German beers behind the bar.
Restaurants BABA
130 George St @babaedinburgh
Middle Eastern mezze are the order of the day at BABA, parked at the Book Festival end of George Street. Expect a highly shareable menu packed with tasty Levantine dishes.
Bodega
14 Albert Pl, 36 Leven St @bodegatollx
Fantastic tacos in super-chilled and extremely friendly surroundings, Bodega bring flavours from around the world together in wonderful corn tortillas. Oh, and their margaritas are immense.
Bread Meats Bread
92 Lothian Rd @BreadMeats_EDI
Incredible burgers, outrageous sides—try the poutine—and a great location; Bread Meats Bread is ideal Fringe fuel, and their vegan menu has come on leaps and bounds in recent times so now everyone can enjoy it.
Chop House
East Market St @chophousesteak
If the Fringe is getting you down, may we recommend the Chop House’s frankly outlandish breakfasts, or one of their incredible dry-aged steaks? Either way, luxuriate in their enormous orange chairs and take an extremely tasty break from it all.
Pizza Posto
16 Nicholson St @pizzapostouk
An ideal spot for a whistlestop between-show meal, Posto turn out brilliant pizzas at a hell of a speed. It’s a massive space so waiting times are minimal, and you’ll come away with a surprising amount of change when you’re done.
Casual Bross Bagels
19 Queensferry St, 105 Leith Walk, 186 Portobello High St @BrossBagels
Larah Bross’ Montreal-style bagels have become a local institution in just a few short years. You’ll find delicious flavours, inventive combinations and a generally cool vibe at any of their three spots around the city.
Checkpoint
3 Bristo Pl @checkpointedi
Brilliant brunch until the early evening? A great drinks selection for the late-night? A shipping container, inside the bar? Checkpoint has it all.
Maki & Ramen
13 W Richmond St
A lovingly decorated and charming hole in the wall off Nicholson St, the menu is, as suggested, half sushi and half noodle. Expect quality in presentation, ingredients and execution. Try the Master Chef Shoyu burnt garlic ramen; you will not be disappointed.
Mother India’s Cafe
3-5 Infirmary St @Official_MIndia
At Mother India, the tapas-style menu means that the breadth and variety of your dinner is limited only by your ability to share with friends. And they’re your friends, so if you ‘accidentally’ elbow them out of the way for the prawns they’ll understand.
Civerinos
5 Hunter Sq, 49 Forrest Rd @civerinos_slice
Their locations are great: just off the Royal Mile, and on the edge of the Meadows. The vibe is great: all fly-postered walls and marble statues. Above all else, the pizza at Civerinos is great: sourdough base, brilliant toppings, and big enough to fuel even the most ill-advised of schedules.
Dough
172 Rose St & 47 South Clerk St @Dough_pizzeria1
You’re on the way from one show to another, you’re a bit hungover and you haven’t eaten in a day and a half. What you need is a slice of pizza – Dough have an extensive array of by-the-slice pies, all delicious sea water crusts and fresh ingredients.
Juliette Burton
Defined, Gilded Balloon Teviot, 31 Jul–25 Aug, not 12, 5:30pm
I lived in Edinburgh for four happy years so I made sure I explored as many places to eat and drink as I could. Joseph Pearce’s Bar on Elm Row has great brunches, cocktails and ciders plus PINTS of bloody mary (yes, pints). Generally I’d recommend exploring Leith Walk, Bruntsfield and Stockbridge for a break from the festivals. To look after your mental wellbeing, find quiet spaces to hide. And if it’s a fine day, take a break and have a picnic in one of the parks. That’s the best place to eat, drink and take a breather in my experience.
Tips from the tops High Dive Pizza Pub
81 St Leonards St @thehighdiveandslicebar
The latest venture from the fine folks behind Civerinos, the High Dive is an exciting blend of pseudo-nostalgic surroundings and delicious, inventive pizzas. Connect with the local vibe with a cocktail named after one of the flumes at the Commonwealth Pool.
The Mosque Kitchen
31 Nicolson Sq
Fern Brady
Power and Chaos, Monkey Barrel Comedy, 1–25 Aug, not 12, 6pm
Fortitude Coffee next door to The Stand is easily the best coffee shop in Edinburgh, and for food I like Henderson’s Vegan Restaurant (not the veggie deli downstairs, the upstairs one), Paradise Palms and also the Basement Bar on Broughton Street for Mexican food and cocktails. I used to go to Boda Bar and Sofi’s a lot when I lived in Leith. They’re nice Swedish bars.
El Cartel Mexicana
64 Thistle St, 15 Teviot Pl @elcartelmexicana
The best Mexican food in Edinburgh can be found in the cosy (as in tiny) confines of El Cartel. They’ve added a second restaurant near Bristo Square, but be assured that the tacos are more than worth any queuing you might face.
A Fringe institution and all-round winner, the Mosque Kitchen serves up delicious curry all day long with huge plates of spicy goodness starting at just a few quid. If you haven’t been yet, go now.
The Nile Valley Cafe
6 Chapel St
The falafel; oh sir, the falafel. This unpretentious Sudanese cafe would be our number one choice for an ad-hoc Fringe lunch – pick up their Africa wrap (falafel, feta cheese, broad beans, hummus and spicy peanut sauce) and all your comedy hang-ups will disappear in a cloud of chickpea-based positivity.
Noodles and Dumplings
23 South Clerk St
A no-frills Chinese diner in the heart of Newington, this is where you go for glutinous hand-pulled noodles and delicious multi-layered broth served in bowls the size of your head.
Red Box Noodle Bar
51 W Nicholson St
Enormously customisable noodle boxes are the order of the day here. Choose every last detail of your lunch, from the cut of the noodles to the level of heat in the chili, then dive in (literally if necessary).
Ting Thai Caravan
8 Teviot Pl
Totally affordable, incredibly tasty and more than a little exciting, Ting Thai Caravan is in many ways the perfect lunch spot. Get down early for a seat at the canteen-style benches, and pore over a Thai menu with more variety and quality than you can shake a chopstick at.
Ting Thai Saboteur
19 Teviot Pl
South Asian street food with a great range of veggie options, Saboteur is right around the corner from its illustrious sibling, but doesn’t yet suffer from the mammoth queues of Ting Thai Caravan. We say get in while you have the chance.
Lydia Zanetti
producer of Aunty at Assembly, and My Best Dead Friend and Working on My Night Moves at Summerhall
The Summerhall courtyard is one one of my favourite places to have a pint, not only at the festival, but in the whole world. Filled with the warmest, kindest, most over excited artists and performance fans you will ever meet. Every festival that courtyard becomes a strange little family for a month. I fall in love with every single person there.
Union of Genius
8 Forrest Rd
Soup’s great, and Union of Genius’ soup is greater than most. Loads of veggie options, plentiful servings and super-quick service make this a deserved Fringe favourite.
All Day Edinburgh Printmakers
1 Dundee St @EdinburghPrints
Now one of Europe’s largest print facilities, Printmakers houses two galleries, a shop, a huge print studio and a lovely cafe with a brilliantly sunny terrace. All squeezed into a brilliantly renovated former rubber factory, it's well worth checking out.
George Square
Expect to find a raft of street food vans parked up in and around the George Square homes of Underbelly and Assembly. We recommend looking out for The Buffalo Truck (black van, amazing fried chicken), Mimi’s (light blue, very nice cakes) and Pizza Geeks (glasses on the logo, brilliant pizzas).
Gilded Balloon
Teviot Pl @Gildedballoon
This Hogwart’s-style building is actually the oldest purpose-built students’ union in the world. Bought and paid for by the students in 1889—clearly they had a bit more cash back then—it’s a warren of big and small performance spaces, bars and cafes.
Mary’s Milk Bar
18 Grassmarket @MarysMilkBar
A cute little gelateria inspired by the milk bars of the 1960s but with the flavours brought right up to date, Mary’s has quickly become an Edinburgh institution. If the sun is out (it will be at least once, promise), get yourself down here for a hit of delicious, creamy gelato. You’ve earned it.
National Museum of Scotland
Chambers St @NtlMuseumsScot
The NMS has a plethora of fascinating galleries holding items from across the ages. For lovers of nice views (and delicious food at the acclaimed Tower restaurant), head to the seventh floor roof terrace for a look across the city.
The Pitt
125 Pitt St @thepittmarket
Edinburgh’s year-round street food market is home to some of the country’s best food vans, and during the Fringe it also features the delights of piano-based amphitheatre the Pianodrome.
Pleasance Dome
1 Bristo Square @ThePleasance
Year round, this is one of Edinburgh University Student Union’s venues. Come August time it’s not only a major festival venue, but also the site of some serious hanging out, coffee drinking, snack munching, morning, midday and evening boozing and star-spotting.
Summerhall
1 Summerhall @summerhallery
With a venue the size of a former Veterinary school, it takes a lot to fill it. Thankfully Summerhall has the right idea, packing the place with lots of little goings-on. In addition to a vast Fringe programme of theatre, comedy and live music, there are exhibition spaces, two cafes, an onsite micro-brewery AND gin distillery, and they even have room for the Fest offices.
Hiya!
George Egg
Movable Feast, Assembly George Square Gardens, 1–25 Aug, not 12, 4:30pm
Well I’m into cooking so I can tell you some great places to get ingredients if you’ve got self-catering accommodation. For meat, Saunderson’s on Leven Street is the best place. For fish, George Hughes on Bruntsfield Place, and for bread, The Wee Boulangerie on Clerk Street. They’re all independent local places, very friendly, very supportive and superb produce. And if you don’t want to cook yourself then The Cheesy Toast Shack (there’s a few all around George Square and Bristo Square) are so so good.
The Hive
Tips from the tops
Double Denim
Adventure Show, Underbelly Cowgate, 1–25 Aug, not 12, 8:40pm
Michelle is always on the hunt for new vegan places and Pumpkin Brown her current favourite. It’s healthy and light and in an unexpected spot next to pubs and more touristy things. Brew Lab is a treat if you want a good coffee. Ting Thai Caravan is relatively cheap and a nice healthy option too. Secret Arcade is an awesome vodka hide-away. Also if you have time to have a sip of a rhubarb and ginger liqueur at Edinburgh Gin distillery you won’t regret it.
Late Night
Banshee Labyrinth
29 Niddry St @b_labyrinth
If a dive bar were designed by a crypt-keeper, it would look like Banshee Labyrinth. Endless caves (some of which host free Fringe shows), copious hiding places and free-flowing drinks.
Che
21 Forrest Rd
Falafel can cure all ills, so if you’ve hit it a bit too hard on a night out head to Che for a chickpea nightcap. Freshly-fried falafel, wrapped up with salad and pickles, will see you through to the morning.
3 Niddry St @clubhive
The wild and cavernous Cowgate hang-out is a notorious student haunt for good reason. If you only know The Hive for its Fringe programming, you haven’t lived; head down for a late-night drink and you’ll find an all-action party spot that isn’t for the faint-hearted.
Lady Libertine
25 W Register St @LadyLibertineEd
This latest venture from the folk behind Bon Vivant and El Cartel is a bit interesting. Mezze, cocktails, multiple areas through which to sashay, and a late closing time all combine for an ideal end of day venue.
Ox 184
184 Cowgate
A lengthy bar stocked with a legion of beers, ciders and spirits and nightly DJs are a solid start. But OX 184’s secret weapon is a wood-fired grill and handsome BBQ menu served until 2:30am.
Paradise Palms
41 Lothian St @edinburghpalms
A genuine lynchpin for Edinburgh’s creative community, Palms has a bit of everything. It’s a performance space, a record shop (and record label), a veggie diner, and a hugely fun bar. Go at least once this Fringe, you won’t regret it.
Sneaky Pete’s
73 Cowgate @sneakypetesclub
It’ll make your Fringe flat seem like a palace, but what Sneaky’s lacks in area it makes up for with energy. A huge range of weekly and monthly club nights, a beautifully clear sound system, and an ever-present crowd of the city’s most discerning and nicest clubbers make Sneaky’s a great shout every night of the week.
Wee Red Bar
74 Lauriston Pl
The Wee Red Bar may be located on ECA territory, but this isn’t your average student disco. A near-constant stream of grassroots gigs take up the evenings, and the wide range of club nights keep things interesting until the early hours.
Phil Nichol
Too Much, Monkey Barrel Comedy, 1–25 Aug, not 12, 9pm
I’m a fan of Cult Coffee on Buccleuch Street. Lovely staff and great coffee. Mr Kim’s for fantastic and reasonably priced food although it’s so popular that you’ll have to queue as it’s only open for a few hours a day after 5.30pm. Or journey out of town to North Berwick and find The Lobster Shack on the dock. Sit outside and watch the Forth pour in to the sea while eating some delicious seafood. Have a glass of wine and be back in Edinburgh in time to see my show.