Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock & Govan by Tara Hepburn

Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock & Govan

This part of Glasgow has seen big changes in the past 20 years. In the minds of many Scottish people The Gorbals is still a by-word for the type of deprivation that the city of Glasgow was once famous for. To residents of even just a few decades ago, the Gorbals of today would be unrecognisable with its penthouse apartments, 24-hour gyms and drive-thru coffee shops.

Government investment of close to £1 billion has transformed the southern Clyde waterfront area into a slick media hub. When the BBC opened its Scottish headquarters on the south bank of the river in 2007, it did not take long for big-money companies to line up alongside it. The Quayside today plays host to casinos, cinemas, restaurants and high-rise luxury chain hotels. Behind the shininess of the riverfront, however, these are still working-class parts of town. Immigrant communities from across Europe and the Middle East have settled here, and continue to do so. The shops, cafes, barbers, bars and restaurants refl ect that multiculturalism. In many ways, this area of town paints a distinct picture of modern Glasgow. A heartening mix of the city’s industrial past and its ambitious future.

There are not many green spaces in the area. It is, after all, the city’s industrial heartland. A walk or bike ride along the river, however, will offer a whistle-stop tour of some of Glasgow’s most iconic buildings and structures, from Glasgow Science Centre and Govan Parish Church on the southern banks, to Glasgow University, the Finnieston Crane and the SEC across the water (as well as the squinty bridge across it).

For a spooky autumnal walk, consider ducking in under the large stone archway of the Gorbals Southern Necropolis (Caledonia Rd). A nod to the area’s grim history, this graveyard (founded in 1840) is the final resting place for over 250,000 Gorbals inhabitants. It is worth seeking out the famous White Lady monument. Just be sure not to walk around her ghostly statue three times or – legend has it – she will turn your body to stone.

Deeper south is Bellahouston Park – a vast and beautiful city park with terrific spots for running, cycling and picnics. There is even a dry ski slope. Within the park sits the unique House for an Art Lover, built in the 1990s based on 1901 notes left behind by Glasgow’s most prominent architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh. The large white mansion hosts exhibitions, weddings and is in some ways a curiously compromised example of the British Art Nouveau style – Mackintosh’s notes, for example, made no mention of a visitor centre or a cafe. If you are looking for a more authentic Mackintosh fix this side of the river, you could do a lot worse than strolling past the imposing Scotland Street School (225 Scotland St), opposite Shields Road Underground station. The sandstone Victorian school building is a wonderful example of Mackintosh’s style. It is, at the time of writing, closed for a large-scale refurbishment, which will see it returned to its original purpose next year: educating young minds.

Image Courtesy of The Big Feed

Food and drink

Afun foodie highlight is Govan’s The Big Feed (249-325 Govan Rd). This weekly street food festival takes place in a large disused warehouse on Govan Road, when a changing rotation of food trucks from across the country park up and get cooking. With a fully-stocked bar, live music, arcade games and so much good food to try – it is easy to spend hours here.

There is no better Lebanese food on offer in the city than the heaving plates of mezze available at the ever-busy Beirut Star (450 Paisley Rd W) in Cessnock. Unassuming (and underpriced, given the quality of the food). Similarly high quality, low price food can be found near the Glasgow Mosque in the Gorbals in the form of highly rated Aghan food at Namak Mandi (17-23 Bridge St), Middle Eastern cuisine in Palmtree Kitchen and sweets from Turkey in Istanbul Cakes and Baklawas (63 Bridge St).

Nearby, Babylon Supermarket (3-5 Commerce St) is a large supermarket well stocked with Middle Eastern and Mediterranean ingredients and even an in-house bakery. Aladdin’s (45 Commerce St) nearby is similarly good for hard-to-find ingredients.

Photo: Fredrika Carlsson

South of the River

Glasgow Science Centre

The Good Coffee Cartel (12 Cornwall St) in Cessnock offer an on-site coffee roastery and cafe with a sustainable focus. In the Gorbals, vegan joint Zilch Bakery & Deli (124 Norfolk St) serve up a frankly astounding range of plant-based food, from NY cheesecake to charcuterie.

When it comes to drinking establishments, this area of town does a roaring trade in good old-fashioned pubs. Home to two of the city’s very best: The Laurieston (58 Bridge St) and The Old Toll Bar (1 Paisley Rd W). The Gorbals’ Laurieston is a Glasgow city icon, appearing in pop-art city prints, photography exhibitions and even a Fratellis music video. Old Toll Bar in Kinning Park dates back to the 1800s but was refurbished and redefined in 2017. The bones of the place remain the same: curved dark wood bar, reasonably priced draft beer, unpretentious crowd.

Things to do

Glasgow Science Centre (50 Pacific Quay) is an immersive experience year-round, commited to making learning fun in futuristic architectural surrounds. During COP26, it will host The Green Zone, where the public, civil society, Indigenous Peoples, youth groups, charities, academics, artists and businesses can have their voices heard through an extensive programme of events.

If you are in the area and feeling brave, you might want to pay a visit to Ibrox Stadium (150 Edmiston Dr). One of the oldest football stadiums in Europe (built in 1874), it is home to Glasgow Rangers, the blue half of the city’s world famous football rivalry with the East End’s Glasgow Celtic.

The area is bookended by the exquisite Govan Old Parish Church (866 Govan Rd). Free to the public, the site has been home to a church since the 6th century and houses the famous Govan stones. These Norse carved stones date back to 870 AD, when the Vikings raided the Clyde region and destroyed nearby Dumbarton. Their presence in the churchyard serves as evidence that the Vikings settled, at least in part, in Govan.

Govan Project Space

Alex Allan, founder of Govan Project Space, on why an uninsulated warehouse near former dry docks is the perfect space for an arts venue

What is Govan Project Space? We want to be a big space for showing ambitious work that sits somewhere between education and institution. We can offer a sort of semi instit- utional scale space, fabrication facilities. So we’re trying to encourage people to come to us with ideas for making new ambitious work which may not have had the chance before.

We got our first Creative Scotland funding just as the pandemic hit – our programme for 2020 was planned. Obviously COVID kind of scuppered things but we did manage to put on three shows during 2020, including Jacqueline Donachie, a major undertaking for us, and Tamara MacArthur. I’m really glad we did – there were mom- ents where both the artists and ourselves were like, “Ah, should we be doing this? And can we do this safely?” But it seemed to have a good effect on people at the shows. People were really just openly thankful to us for putting something on – it’s so nice to actually get out and see something in real life. It was quite heartwarming and sort of humbling to hear.

Our GI2021 project with Jacqueline Donachie ended up lasting about two years, including a temporary public artwork at Govan Graving Docks, that was critical of Glasgow’s ageing infrastructure and the restrictions some spaces pose to people with mobility issues. We worked with Sculpture Placement Group in the development of a pilot programme which meant that the sculpture had a guaranteed life after the show was finished.

How connected are you with the local community? We are lucky enough to be in a building with lots of organisations who do amazing work in the community, so access to that and being able to exchange help and ideas is something we

Photo: Matthew Barnes are looking to develop further in the future.

I’ve been fortunate enough to work on a number of projects that increase public engagement really well. I think a lot of the time, it can almost be presented as a kind of obstacle exercise in projects. So it’s nice to see and work with people who are championing that type of work, and see the positive effect it has on kids.

What makes Govan special? I think it’s an amazing place. It’s just so real, like, it’s still real – there’s very little gentrification happening. And it’s just a really nice place to be. Everyone’s really sound, there’s very little trouble. There’s so much stuff to see, just like mad juxtapositions of buildings and organisations.

The area that we’re in, it’s not really known for its sort of cre- ative endeavours. But it always felt like we moved into that space; it was a big, sort of cavernous empty warehouse, and it always felt we were kind of on the ground floor on something bigger in the area. I think it’s definitely starting to take shape.

Govan Graving Docks, Jaqueline Donachie. Public work commissioned by Govan Project Space, Glasgow International 2021 Govan Project Space, 249 Govan Rd

Photo: Robert Keane

Loch Lomond

Further Afield

Once you’ve explored the centre, venture outside the city limits to find the islands, castles and cities of Scotland within easy reach.

Words: Laurie Presswood

Daytrips from Glasgow are not just a fun way for tourists to pass the time, but a notable feature of Glasgow’s past, from trips doon the watter for the Glasgow Fair weekend, to jollies all the way down to Portpatrick and the beaches of Ayrshire. For those lucky enough to be travelling with a car, the west coast is truly your oyster – head for the hills to visit Loch Lomond (of song fame) and the Trossachs National Park. On Loch Katrine you can enjoy a winter wonderland cruise, one of a select few of the west coast’s scenic ferry rides available during the winter months. If you’re confined to public transport on the other hand then never fear – many of the jewels of the Clyde can be reached by train without difficulty. Dumbarton Castle sits on the North bank of the Clyde estuary, nestled in the dramatic volcanic basalt of Dumbarton Rock, or travel further up the coast to visit Helensburgh and the Charles Rennie MackIntoshdesigned Hill House mansion. On the other side of the river you can admire Helensburgh and the adjacent Clyde Sea Lochs from afar – get food on Kempock Street in Gourock and revel in the beauty of the seaside. The intrepid explorer wearing sufficient under-layers should consider catching a ferry out to one of the Clyde Isles. From Largs you can

head out to Cumbrae, which you may hear called Millport after the island’s sole town. Hiring bikes (for one, two, or seven passengers) is a Millport rite of passage, but The Skinny cannot vouch for its enjoyability during the winter months. Bute (accessible via Wemyss Bay) plays host to Mount Stuart, a striking neo-gothic mansion built in the late 19th century, while you can catch the ferry to Arran from Ardrossan to enjoy the island that some call “Scotland in miniature”. There’s plenty to do in Ayrshire besides gawk at the island of Ailsa Craig and fantasise that it’s a giant Tunnock’s Tea Cake. You’re spoilt for choice for museums dedicated to Scotland’s Bard – in Alloway alone you can find the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum, Burns Cottage and Burns Monument. Culzean Castle is closed now for winter, but a walk around the grounds will prove even more breathtaking than anything that can be found inside. If you’re desperate to see the beautiful interiors and furnishings of a stately home, however, Dumfries House near Cumnock can certainly scratch that itch. In the centre of Scotland lies Stirling, one of Scotland’s ancient capitals. Stirling is just a half-hour train journey from Glasgow, and is built around what we will, perhaps controversially, name ‘Scotland’s Best Castle’. Take the tour, and be invited to sit on a reconstruction of the King’s throne, or stand on the battlements and look out over miles of historic

Photo: Steve Gilruth Photo: Neostalgic

Stirling Castle

battlefields as the wind whips through your hair and you pretend to be in an episode of Outlander. Scotland’s modern-day capital, Edinburgh, is within easy striking distance of Glasgow – a mere 50 minutes by train from Queen Street Station. It’s full of historic hills and mounds to climb, and beautiful views to reward you when you do, although we would not recommend attempting Arthur’s Seat if it’s icy out. Investigate the galleries and museums scattered across the centre, or mosey into the various and distinct neighbourhoods to shop and appreciate the architecture (Dean Village is relatively central, and generally less saturated with tourists than spots like the castle). For a more in-depth guide around the capital, check out The Skinny Guide to Edinburgh on issuu.com/theskinny If you’re willing to travel just a little further (an hour and a half on the train), and would like to investigate one of Scotland’s smaller cities, head for Dundee. Upon walking out of the station you’ll immediately be struck by Scotland’s first design museum – the V&A Dundee sits centrally among such other features of the city’s waterfront as the RRS Discovery, Jannettas Gelateria and the freshly installed Tay Whale sculpture. For a proper expedition into the city, you can grab some fish and chips and head for the top of the Law (fish and chips optional), or head down the Perth Road stopping at every pub, shop and gallery along the way.

Glasgow’s Miles Better

We take a look at the rich musical history of Glasgow, which was declared a UNESCO City of Music in 2008, by exploring its multitude of venues and the bands who were formed here.

Words: Tony Inglis

Image Courtesy of The Hug and Pint

The Hug and Pint

Those of The Skinny’s readers based in Glasgow may have been relieved to see that, in the magazine’s Edin- burgh City Guide from August, Edinburgh was described as being ‘overshadowed’ by Glasgow’s music scene, that it was ‘hard to argue a case’ for east over west. And while the piece goes on to list the myriad things the capital does have to offer, it surely warms the heart of every Glaswegian to hear (officially!) that it doesn’t quite match the country’s biggest city – musically speaking at least.

However, petty city rivalry aside, it’s difficult to question Glasgow’s musical credentials. The city has been entertaining music lovers for centuries. It's home to The Britannia Panopticon Music Hall at Trongate, the world’s oldest surviving music hall, hall, which opened in 1857. Jump forward over 150 years, and Glasgow is a UNESCO City of Music, achieving that honour in 2008. It boasts approaching 200 available venues and has birthed dozens of popular – some seminal, some underappreciated – bands and artists. Music runs through the blood of Glasgow, through its streets and architecture, where tenement flats vibrate with the music conceived in and around them.

When LCD Soundsystem came to play in 2017 after a long layoff, James Murphy recounted onstage that it was the Barrowland Ballroom – affectionately known as the Barras – with its famously bouncy floor, where they now stood playing, that they specifically wanted to return to. It’s an anecdote that sums up the atmosphere around live music in the city – often a band will tell you they’re playing to the best crowd in the best room in the world at a show, but in Glasgow they actually mean it. Open since the 1930s down the Gallowgate, the Barras is just one of a number of iconic places bands pull up to play, from the mammoth big hitters like the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall in the City Centre and the OVO Hydro on the Clydeside to tiny basements in pubs like The Hug and Pint on Great Western Road and Nice N Sleazy on Sauchiehall Street.

In these smaller fronts – Stereo and Broadcast in the city centre, or Mono in Merchant City, or SWG3 under the arches by the river, or The Glad Cafe in the Southside, or the converted church of Òran Mór in the West End, or the CCA on Sauchiehall Street, or St Luke’s, a hop, skip and jump from the Barras – is where Glasgow’s music community really feels like a teeming cultural hub of familiar faces and like-minded individuals. Many double as arts spaces of all stripes, and that’s the reason so many go on to be the origin of bands that spring up here. Then there are places like King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, located on St Vincent Street, the lore around which makes it hard to discern what stories are apocryphal and which are true. It is true that countless bands who went on to mainstream success passed through its doors. It was famously where (and stop us if you’ve heard this one before) Alan McGee signed Oasis in 1993. That’s not to mention those we’ve lost – a dilapidated shell is all that remains of the old ABC on Sauchiehall Street, a sad reminder of the last Glasgow School of Art fire in 2018, even if it is survived by its sister venue, the O2 Academy on Eglinton Street.

Nowadays, these world class stages cohere into multi-venue festivals like Stag & Dagger and The Great Western (both on 13 Nov), offering a chance at the festival experience but situated in purpose-built areas where music lives and breathes every night rather than for one weekend in the calendar year. That goes for non-indie music celebrations too, like Celtic Connections’ array of trad, folk, roots and global music (20 Jan 2022-6 Feb 2022). There are the likes of TRNSMT (8-10 Jul 2022), bringing a mixed line-up of chart toppers and local up-and-comers, at Glasgow Green, or the electronic Riverside for those looking to go all in.

Perhaps there could be even more venues, with live music of the highest calibre sometimes spilling out on the streets. Your train terminates at Glasgow Central in April 1976? You might catch Neil Young performing to perhaps his smallest ever crowd at the station’s Gordon Street entrance a few hours before a show with Crazy Horse at the old Apollo on Renfield Street. In May 1985, The Clash busked across town, finally ending up on Old Dumbarton Road outside Dukes Bar. You might not have known who he would become, but you may have spotted a very young pre-music Gil Scott-Heron hold his dad’s hand on the city’s streets while Gil Heron (Snr) was playing for Celtic in the 50s.

Nirvana played their only ever Glasgow show at the University of Glasgow’s Queen Margaret Union as their career was skyrocketing after the release of Nevermind in late 1991. Kurt Cobain famously called The Vaselines – just one of a bumper crop of Glasgowbirthed music projects – his favourite band in the world. Where to even begin with how potent this city of no more than 600,000 people has been in producing great acts. Belle and Sebastian, Primal Scream, Camera Obscura, The Blue Nile, Franz Ferdinand,

Photo: Cameron Brisbane

Musical History

Photo: Paul Storr

CHVRCHES – the list could go on. Most wonderful is seeing formative experiences repeatedly germinate in the same locations. Take Edwyn Collins and Orange Juice coming together in the now gone Vic Bar at the School of Art, and then later Life Without Buildings, and later still Still House Plants, developing within the art student community.

Even greater still is the way individuals from the city’s best bands stay connected with the wider music scene: Stephen McRobbie of The Pastels opening Monorail (read our Q&A with McRobbie on p. 19), just one of a number of excellent Glasgow record stores, or bands like The Delgados and Mogwai establishing labels Chemikal Underground and Rock Action respectively in the city and putting out important records from the likes of Arab Strap and The Twilight Sad. Techno duo Slam were there to capture the early days of Daft Punk, signing them to their Soma label and putting out some of their first recordings. That legacy lives on in the likes of independent imprints like Last Night From Glasgow. There are bands from just outside the city limits – The Jesus and Mary Chain (East Kilbride) and Teenage Fanclub (Bellshill) for example – who came up thanks to Glasgow’s burgeoning and fruitful scene. Electronic acts like SOPHIE, Hudson Mohawke and Rustie made their name here and went on to have genre-defying influence across music full stop. (Cocteau Twins are from Grangemouth, which is probably a little too close to Edinburgh for Glaswegians to claim).

CHVRCHES at TRNSMT

The criteria that make up Glasgow’s previously mentioned City of Music status pinpoint seven main indicators of what such a label should aim to represent: iconic, knowledgeable, accessible, supportive, representative, promotional, unique. While celebrating that status, perhaps the city can also learn from it. It would be hard to say that, since it was awarded the title, Glasgow has been a pristine example of accessibility, support or representation. When the city’s flagship music festival can be a success with ticket sales and industry attention, but not have forward-thinking booking or a diverse, balanced line-up, can we say we have truly hit those markers? Use the rich history and tools at our disposal and we might just be able to wear the City of Music badge with real pride.

Image: courtesy of The Modern Institute

Gallery Guide

Artists Make Glasgow

Glasgow has a lot of artists who make the city one of the most culturally vibrant around. It’s literally its best quality. Here we’re running through the art galleries around the city, and the different kinds of events and shows happening in them

Living in Glasgow can be a tough sell. There aren’t a lot of jobs, people don’t really date and it rains basically all the time. Hands down the best thing about Glasgow is its higher than average artist population, so new collectives, pop-up spaces and artist-run initiatives come around more frequently than elsewhere. Commercial interests don’t feature on the cultural cityscape, so all the spaces mentioned below are publicly and/or charitably funded, with the exception of the final two.

The artist-run model has long been the momentum of Glasgow’s art scene. It just about works and is the engine behind Transmission Gallery (28 King St), Good Press (32 St. Andrews St) and SaltSpace (270 High St) in the centre, Market Gallery (334 Duke St), to the east, as well as 16 Nicholson Street just over the river from the City Centre. Nevertheless, while in the broadest terms similar – run by emerging and early career artists, who organise sharings of works by their peers – there are usually markedly different programming identities and strands in each of the spaces at any one time. For example, Market spreads its programming into media that can easily circulate outside of the gallery space during lockdown, e.g. print media, sound and radio. Also picking up exclusively on the possibilities of audio and soundwork, Listen Gallery (204 Hunter St) is among the newest spaces in Glasgow, ‘created in hope to rebalance the senses.’

“The artistrun model has long been the momentum of Glasgow’s art scene. It just about works”

and The Common Guild Glasgow Photo: Isobel Lutz-Smith, courtesy the artist

Installation view, Iconoclasm, 2021, London Road, Glasgow, Sam Durant

Next door to Transmission, there’s the Trongate 103 (103 Trongate) art gallery complex, with Street Level Photography and Glasgow Print Studio, each with their own medium-specific programming of contemporary art. Upstairs, there’s Project Ability, a visual arts charity and gallery supporting people with learning disabilities and mental ill-health to create art.

Just over the river from the City Centre, not far from 16 Nicholson St, there is the current site of The Common Guild, installed in a former primary school on 5 Florence Street. The Common Guild have for 15 years brought some of the most critically-acclaimed international artists to make new projects, working in a combination of off-site events, as well as gallery exhibitions.

The Hunterian is currently the only academically-supported contemporary art gallery in the city. Its contemporary strand is still relatively new, but has emerged well-developed, grounded in the research already taking place in the History of Art department into avant-garde and contemporary art practice.

There are the bigger municipal galleries spread around the city, too. In the City Centre it’s the Gallery of Modern Art (111 Queen St), which opened in 1996 and has expressly aligned its collections towards politically-oriented artworks and artists confronting issues of social justice. Big names (in terms of international artspeak) will be included in shows here, like a group show organised a couple of years

ago around an acquisition of work from internationally renowned contemporary artist Hito Steyerl.

Slowly working further north in the city, there’s the Centre for Contemporary Arts (350 Sauchiehall St), formerly the Third Eye Centre set up in 1975. As an art and performance venue, it shows an impressive range of practice from theatre to experimental music, as well as contemporary art. Its Open Source policy means the spaces can be made available to those who need or want to use them, including a wellequipped publication studio, club space and theatre.

In the Southside, Tramway (25 Albert Dr) – along with the Gallery of Modern Art – is the other council-run space for contemporary art in Glasgow, and will show artists from the pages of Frieze and Art Forum in the vast surrounds of a former tram depot. Deeper into the Southside, in distinction to the epic scale of the Tramway mainspace, find also Kiosk Gallery (25 Prince Edward St), 20 Albert Road and Mount Florida Gallery/ Studios (37 Clincart Rd). Each of these is more occasionally open, shared between three curatorial projects (like 20 Albert Road) or also housing artist studio holders, as in Mount Florida. Each in its own way is harder to classify, and more often rooted in hosting Glasgow-based artists. East End and Tramway, each institution exhibiting artists more often from outside Glasgow, who have recently achieved a substantial level of recognition or visibility. Worth noting that for some reason, as recently pointed out by local artist Alaya Ang, David Dale’s management persist in keeping the gallery’s name as a monument to an 18th century merchant who profited from slavery. In the furthest eastern reaches of the city, there is the brand new French Street (103-109 French Street), with studios and a gallery space. It’s more of a sporadic programme with the space being used by different organisers and freelance programmers.

With a negligible level of art buying actually happening here, the best practitioners have long committed to making some kind of genuinely valuable contribution to discourse/society/life over competition or a more vague sense of status. So it’s only appropriate to leave until last the small number of commercial galleries. These include The Modern Institute (14-20 Osborne St), whose roster includes a lot of the ‘Glasgow Miracle’ era names like Jim Lambie and Martin Boyce, and Kendall Koppe (36-38 Coburg St), who represent big names of the generation that followed, including Charlotte Prodger and Corin Sworn. Their programmes come as close to ‘art for art’s sake’ as the city’s conversational criticality allows.

While there’s still a vibrant scene, the last two years have markedly slowed the usual ecosystem of new projects, personalities and spaces cropping up every Friday night, when most of the openings happen. Hopefully this article will soon need updated to namecheck a whole new host of new living room-cum-gallery spaces and empty-shopfronts-turned-galleries, once the newest artists, graduates and arrivals to the city adjust to the new IRL possibilities. FAO all relevant arts administrators, landlords and funders: without them, Glasgow’s art scene crumbles.

courtesy of Design Weans Photo: Mook Attanath

There are some similarities between David Dale Gallery & Studios (161 Broad St) in the

David Livingstone Birthplace

David Livingstone Birthplace Museum

Think you know all there is to know about the 19th-century adventurer Dr David Livingstone? The David Livingstone Birthplace Museum hopes to paint a truer picture of the explorer that’s much more nuanced than the prevailing Victorian-era myths

Interview: Jamie Dunn

Start compiling a list of the greatest Scots in history and David Livingstone is likely to be near the top. But is the pre- vailing image of the good doctor – that of a daring Victorian-era explorer – an accurate one? If you’re slightly fuzzy on Living- stone’s achievements during his epic journeys across Sub- Saharan Africa in the mid- 19th century you’re not alone. Since his death in 1873, many of the exuberant biographies written about Livingstone have focused on the romantic image of him as a lone pioneer, but have failed to put his life and work in a broader context, particularly as an abolitionist.

The ambition of the David Livingstone Birthplace Museum is to paint a fuller, more nuanced picture. “Visitors will come away with a new understanding of Livingstone’s achievements, his failures, and the opportunity that his story holds to encourage a deeper understanding of marginalised histories and

Photo: Kat Gollock

David Livingstone Birthplace expedition room

Scotland’s role in slavery and colonisation,” promises Natalie Milor, the museum’s curator.

Situated in Livingstone’s childhood home in Blantyre, the David Livingstone Birthplace Museum takes visitors on an interactive tour of Livingstone’s life, from his humble beginnings in this former mill town to the three decades he spent travelling central and southern Africa. Recontextualised for a 21st-century audience, the museum aims to humanise Livingstone. And crucially, the exhibition pays tribute to many of Livingstone’s collaborators, like Abdullah Susi, who was from today’s Mozambique, and James Chuma, from today’s Malawi – both vital crew members on Livingstone’s second Zambezi expedition (1858-1864) and his later travels.

The tension between the myths of Livingstone as a lone explorer and the reality of him as a humanist who collaborated with local people during his journeys is deeply evoked in the museum. The newly restored Pilkington Jackson Tableaux, eight sculptures created by Charles d'Orville Pilkington Jackson in the 1920s, depict heroic scenes of Living-stone in Africa. However, these are now juxtaposed against the Tales from the Tableaux, an animation based on a screenplay by Zimbabwean author and lawyer Petina Gappah, during which the tableaux comes to life and expands on Living-stone's story to include the men and women who helped make his expeditions possible.

As well as looking at Livingstone’s life, the museum is also concerned with how his work in Africa is still felt today. This impact is on display in the museum’s Legacy Room. Here, a series of talking-head interviews filmed in collaboration with the Scotland Malawi Partnership, with individuals from many of the countries that Livingstone visited, including Zambia, Zimbabwe and Malawi, discuss the impact the Scot con- tinues to have in the Sub-Sahara.

Even if you think you learned all about Livingstone at school, the David Livingstone Birthplace Museum offers a rich – and crucially honest – look at the life and legacy of one of Scotland’s most well-known sons.

For more information, head to david-livingstone-birthplace.org

Due to further installations, David Livingstone Birthplace is closed to the public 8-12 Nov. The museum is still allowing pre-booked groups to visit during those dates. To book your group, please email info@dltrust.uk

Photo: Walnut Wasp

Club Culture

From tiny basement venues to a huge multi-venue warehouse space – here’s our guide to Glasgow’s best clubs

Words: Nadia Younes

When you think of Glasgow nightclubs what probably comes to mind is a series of small, sweaty basement venues decked out with pounding sound systems that will leave your ears ringing for at least a week – unless, sensibly, you come prepared with ear plugs.

Glasgow’s nightlife is world-renowned, largely thanks to a number of legendary venues and club nights birthed in the city. While some of the city’s most iconic venues, like The Arches and The Art School, may sadly no longer be in existence, those that are still standing continue to show – week in, week out – why Glasgow’s club scene is so revered.

Sub Club (22 Jamaica St) is a venue synonymous with Glasgow nightlife and a true global clubbing institution. Beginning life as a club night in the early 80s, Sub Club found a permanent home in the venue formerly known as Lucifer’s in 1987 and has remained in the same location ever since. Its longest-running club night, Subculture, is also the longest-running weekly house music residency in the world, with resident DJs Harri and Domenic still at the helm 27 years on. It’s also known for being the venue in which legendary Glasgow-based duo Optimo launched their infamous Optimo (Espacio) parties, running in the venue from 1997-2010.

A fresher face on Glasgow’s club scene, but with just as strong a reputation is La Cheetah Club (73 Queen St). Sitting beneath Max’s Bar and Grill, La Cheetah has steadily developed a reputation as one of Glasgow’s best clubs in its 12 year existence. Known as much for its dedication to supporting local artists and promoters as it is for bringing some of the world’s biggest DJs to its tiny 200-capacity basement, La Cheetah is a club all about balance and it’s in the club’s varied programming where it really thrives.

In March 2019, to coincide with the club’s 10th birthday celebrations, the team behind La Cheetah announced an expansion, opening a much larger sister venue, Room 2 (69 Nelson Mandela Pl), taking over the space once held by Chambre 69. Both venues boast an esteemed Funktion One sound system but the sheer scale of Room 2 allows more opportunity in terms of the range of events that can be held within the venue, with the team branching out into live music and comedy.

Featuring much more lavish decor, but maintaining the basement feel, The Berkeley Suite (237 North St) in Charing Cross sits underneath a pawn shop and features a bespoke, custom-built sound system from Glasgow’s own We Enjoy Sound. The venue is known for frequently hosting the late Andrew Weatherall and Sean Johnston’s A Love From Outer Space, aka ALFOS, parties and Glasgow disco institution Supermax, with resident DJ Billy Woods at the helm, which is soon to celebrate a decade of parties in the venue.

Both opening in 2007 and both serving delicious vegan food, Stereo (22 Renfield Ln) and its sister venue The Flying Duck (142 Renfield St) also serve up a tasty selection of gigs and club nights, leaning into the more eclectic side, in their basement spaces. Popular club nights in the venues include Glasgow queer clubbing staple PUSH IT and live music/clubbing hybrid, with a focus on showcasing local talent, A Cut Above.

For larger scale events, however, multi-venue warehouse SWG3 (100 Eastvale Pl) has a space for just about anything. From intimate club nights in The Poetry Club to huge parties in its Galvanizers space to outdoor events in the Galvanizers Yard, SWG3 has allowed space for a myriad of events to take place in Glasgow – and not just a seemingly endless run of Bongo’s Bingo events.

HWFG!

Twenty years ago The Arches opened its doors for the first time and changed Scotland’s arts scene forever. In new book, Brickwork: A Biography of The Arches, former employees David Bratchpiece and Kirstin Innes celebrate the iconic venue’s enduring legacy

Photo: Calum Barr Interview: Nadia Younes

Bratchpiece and Innes have co-authored a new book, Brickwork: A Biography of The Arches, celebrating the iconic venue’s enduring legacy.

The Arches .

“The last minute scramble of ‘oh fuck, oh fuck!’; that was every day in The Arches,” says David Bratchpiece. “Performance art happening in one space, nudity; on-stage urination became a popular thing,” continues Kirstin Innes.

The pair are discussing the wonderful chaos of an average working day at historic Glasgow arts venue The Arches. Both former employees and passionate advocates for the venue’s cultural importance, For nearly 25 years – between 1991-2015 – the venue was one of the most celebrated in Scotland, and its influence extended across Europe and the rest of the world too, renowned for its radical, unique and distinctly Arches approach. Told through the words of “the people who made it what it was” – as it says in the book’s foreword – Brickwork features the testimonials of over 60 people, each with their own unique stories recounting their time spent at The Arches.

In fact, it was while reminiscing about one of the venue’s most popular club nights, Death Disco, during a Zoom reunion in lockdown where Bratchpiece and Innes realised they were both working on separate books about The Arches’ legacy. “In the chat room I was like, ‘guess what? I’ve just been asked to write a book’...but I saw Bratchy’s face just go [*gestures a confused look*], because Bratchy was already writing a book,” says Innes. “I totally thought I had my poker face on,” Bratchpiece jokes.

The discovery was a blessing in disguise, however, as the pair decided to work together on something much more comprehensive, and came up with the idea to tell the story in the style of an oral history. The book reads like a free-flowing conversation, with memories from a range of contributors – including the venue’s founder Andy Arnold,

“On-stage urination became a popular thing” Kirstin Innes

Image Courtesy of The Arches

Arches clubbers , 1990

playwright Cora Bissett, and DJ and former Arches patron Carl Cox – pieced together almost like a puzzle from various interviews conducted by Bratchpiece and Innes over a four-month period.

“We went right into the night having conversations on Slack about where things were going to fit in where, but the story just did seem to come together,” says Innes. “Wee things would stick in my head and I’d be messaging Kirstin in the middle of the night sometimes, going ‘keep that bit in!’” Bratchpiece continues.

Photo: Niall Walker As much as The Arches has done for Scotland’s arts community, though, a key revelation in the book points to the venue as the birthplace of that chant. Here We Fucking Go is the title of an entire chapter in the book, dedicated to the origins of the now infamous chant heard at gigs, club nights, football matches, and just about any event Scottish crowds can get away with chanting it. But the initial response to the chant was anything but welcoming. “The Arches was a bit like ‘gonnae no do that’,” says Bratchpiece.

“It was [at club night] Inside Out where it all kicked off… I couldn’t make it out at first and I was just like ‘what is this noise?’ And my mate, who I worked with, was like ‘it’s this new thing they’re chanting’,” he continues. “Since then, there’s a sort of mythology almost around it, so I’m actually quite chuffed that now in this book we’re like...that’s ours.”

Despite its closure in 2015, The Arches is still widely considered one of the most important venues in Scotland’s history, and the stories in Brickwork beautifully detail exactly why it’s held so dear in the hearts of so many.

Image Courtesy of The Arches

The Arches 21st birthday campaign,

Brickwork: A Biography of The Arches is published on 4 Nov via Salamander Street

Glasgow Women's Library Radical Archive

We chat with Gabrielle Macbeth, the Volunteer Coordinator at Glasgow Women’s Library, about documenting erased histories, the rich community of Glasgow’s East End, and the importance of radical practices

Interview: Anahit Behrooz

How did Glasgow Women’s Library get started? Glasgow Women’s Library started 30 years ago pretty much exactly. It grew out of an organisation called Women in Profile, which was set up in 1987 in the lead up to Glasgow being the 1990 European City of Culture. It was a group of women artists, writers, and creatives who wanted to make sure that women’s contributions to culture were going to be visible. Colleagues who were around at the time say there was a real sense that: “if we don’t do this, then no one else will” – those who had control over the cultural programme that year were not thinking about women’s contributions to culture at all.

It was an activist reaction, really, which has run through our work ever since: a real commitment and desire to see women’s lives and contributions properly valued and recognised and documented. Glasgow Women’s Library grew out of it, from starting as a group of volunteers to having paid staff to bigger premises and to now being the only accredited museum to women’s history in the UK.

What are some of the ways that the goals of the library have changed over the last 30 years? Or have they pretty much remained the same? As part of our 30th anniversary year we’ve been taking time to reflect and we’re seeing that anti-racist, LGBTQ+ and green work have always been featured in our practice. So I don’t know if our goals have changed massively really, it’s still about giving a voice to women [inclusive of trans, intersex and nonbinary people] who don’t have a voice or whose stories have been erased. Although the term intersectional feminism hadn’t been coined 30 years ago, that’s definitely been part of our thinking all along: involving working class women, women of colour, women with disabilities, migrant women. So have the exhibitions and the lending library always been a part of Glasgow Women’s Library’s project? Showcasing creatives’ work has always been part of what we do, and so has the library. We’ve become more professional in terms of our library and archive – we didn’t have a librarian [or an archivist] for the first ten or 15 years. That didn’t mean that our materials weren’t cared for – quite the opposite – but it’s meant we have a nice balance between caring for the materials and encouraging people to access them. Archives in particular, from my experience, are not particularly accessible places. Students and academics use them but others may not. We want our tools to be accessible and for anyone to feel that they can spend time with and have a sense of ownership of them, because actually these are materials about our history and our lives.

Photo: Neil Hanna

Glasgow Women's Library

Photo: Glasgow Women's Library

East End Women's Heritage Walk

Glasgow Women’s Library runs a volunteer scheme – what are some of the ways you hope the library can engage with the broader community? We are a grassroots organisation: we started as a group of women who made all this come about. So we see ourselves as the community – I work for Glasgow Women’s Library but prior to that I was a member who borrowed books and came to events. There isn’t this us and them relationship, and I suppose volunteering reflects that, because the volunteers are a part of our team but they also benefit from volunteering. We work really hard to identify what it is that volunteers want to get from the experience and then develop a role that is going to be exciting and challenging. I think this idea of the relationship with the community being symbiotic is really interesting. You mentioned that this is the only accredited museum of women’s history in the UK, but it is also a specifically Glasgow institution. What are some of the ways that particular community is reflected in your work? Although we feel this could have happened almost anywhere – there’s nothing particularly special about collecting materials about women’s history and a lot of our materials are not Glasgow focused – we are based in the East End of Glasgow and we are very proud of that and have very close contact with the community. When we moved to this location, we researched the history of women in the area and developed a guided tour that takes people down to Glasgow Green, where suffragettes congregated and where women would go to dry their laundry, and down to the Barras where women worked as hawkers. We’ve also done projects with local groups as well, groups that focus on women’s history or groups who offer specialised services to women who have experienced homelessness and sexual abuse, providing a space for them to display work that they’ve made.

You also have the only lesbian archive in the UK, is that right? We’ve actually just finished a two-year project to make that collection more accessible. It is significant: it makes up about a third of what we have and was one of the earliest collections to come to us in the mid-90s. And obviously we’ve been adding to it because lesbian history has continued! An element [of this project] was to involve volunteers in listing and digitising it, although

Photo: Kieth Hunter

Glasgow Women's Library

GWL Building Exterior

unfortunately that was stalled because of COVID. But another element was commissioning an artist called Ingrid Pollard to make work that responded to this collection – her show, which was originally for Glasgow International 2020, launched in May of this year and was our first post-COVID exhibition. What I found particularly interesting about Ingrid’s work is that she’s a bit older and she remembers some of the materials, like she was actually involved in printing some of the posters [in our collection]. It’s this really amazing connection where she can go back and say: “Oh, this is what this was about”, and also reflect on how some of the issues haven’t really changed and all the rights that have been gained are once more under threat. It strikes me that a lot of the work at Glasgow Women’s Library is not just speaking to these issues but is very explicitly radical. I visited one of your exhibitions recently and there was an anti-police raid poster on display from the 80s, which felt very timely but also not something that a lot of institutions would display. Does this radical approach feel central to what you do? I think a lot of institutional organisations do things because they’ve always been done in a certain way. Whereas, and this comes back to the reflective nature of how we work, we can say: “well, this doesn’t make sense” and we have the freedom to do it differently. The expression I’ve heard colleagues use is that we don’t mind being the grit in the oyster. In the example that you mention, we were showing archive materials about something that has happened. These materials happen to be in our care and we’re displaying them, and people can kind of take what they want from that. I think it is radical to give marginalised voices a space. It is radical to break the mould and do things in a way that is true to our values.

You can visit Glasgow Women’s Library to explore their exhibitions and collections, 23 Landressy St, Bridgeton, Tue-Sun, times vary

City of Activism

Fungal Datascapes, Goethe-Institut

There is a lot happening in Glasgow around the COP26 United Nations Climate Conference. While the world leaders meet in the SEC, Glasgow will no doubt live up to its reputation as a proving ground of social activism, as organisers from around the globe converge in the surrounding city to stage a diverse programme of events and workshops. We’ve pulled together a few highlights from the many, many events happening – for a full run down head to the websites listed below, and keep an eye on our socials.

Words: Rosamund West

People’s Summit for Climate Justice, various venues, 7-10 Nov

While world leaders meet to discuss our future at COP26, the COP26 Coalition will be building power for system change. Bringing together the climate justice movement to discuss, learn and strategise for system change, their programme includes 180+ events which can be joined online from anywhere in the world, or in-person in Glasgow. The list is astonishingly wide-ranging, including expert panels on holding government to account for climate change, discussions on the ecological impact of deep sea mining, artist workshops on subvertising campaign strategies and climbing lessons to facilitate direct protest. Find the full list on their site: cop26coalition. org/peoples-summit

Common Ground Fest, QMU, Sat 6 Nov, 4-10pm, free

Rockstars, politicians, campaigners, activists and changemakers will join forces on Saturday 6 November for Common Ground Fest featuring

keynote speakers, live music, panels, installations, stalls and more. Acts announced so far include Rou Reynolds (Enter Shikari), Colonel Mustard & The Dijon 5, Caroline Lucas MP, Pat Kane (Hue and Cry), Dr Kather- ine Trebeck, The Dalmar Chorus (Kapil Seshasayee, Willie Campbell) and even The Fratellis. commongroundfest.org

Circular Arts Net Mini Depot, BoxHub, 50 Washington St, until 24 Nov

Throughout COP26, Circular Arts Net (CAN) will be teaming up with BoxHub to create a mini depot. Located in the City Centre, the creative hub will offer storage and a space for resources to be shared. Gather or donate materials for reuse within art projects, exhibitions or events for FREE. The space will be open Wednesdays and Fridays 1-2pm, and accessible with an access code (which you can get from info@canarts.org.uk) at other times. canarts.org.uk

Sustainable Glasgow Landing, 220 Broomielaw, 29 Oct-14 Nov

The Sustainable Glasgow Landing has transformed a vacant riverside site for the duration of COP26 into a vibrant space where climate and social justice movements meet the arts. There is a packed events programme, and visitors are invited to explore a range of exhibitions, ranging from Passivhaus technologies and sustainable power generation through to active travel solutions and collaborative art pieces. Find out more about the exhibitors and the full programme of events here: thesustainable glasgowlanding.com

Fungal Datascapes, Goethe-Institut Glasgow, 5-30 Nov, free

Subtitled A Sporous Commons of Mushrooms and Climate, this immersive art installation and 360 degree video experience has been created and realised by artists Rut Karin Zettergren (Sweden), Finn Arschavir (Scotland) and Jens Evaldsson (Sweden). The piece is part of the Goethe Institute’s project Weather Glass or Crystal Ball? Mapping the Weather in Arts and Science. A preview event on 4 November (6-9pm) will feature sound improvisation by artist and musician Danny Pagarani. lablab.se/weatherglass orcrystalball

Climate Fringe

More of a resource than an event per se, the Climate Fringe site provides a platform for all of civil society, from activists to NGOs to trade unions to share events and connect around climate change and COP26. It has been built by Stop Climate Chaos Scotland to join together all the activities that are happening in the run-up to, and during COP. climatefringe.org

New York Times Climate Hub, SWG3, 3-11 Nov, day tickets £24.99

A programme of events and workshops striving to answer the question: how do we adapt and thrive on a changing planet? The NYT/SWG3 ticketed series is a more expensive option than the People’s Summit grassroots activism, but with speakers including Malala Yousafzai, David Lammy and, for some reason, Matt Damon, it looks set to be a fascinating journey. swg3.tv/the-new-york-times- climate-hub

COP26, A Special Culture and Climate Event, St Luke’s, Sat 6 Nov, 9.30-3am, prices vary

This all-dayer in the East End begins with a free to attend conference (9.30am-2.15pm) followed by live music (7-11pm, £5-35) then an after party (11pm-3am, £10). Artists include BEMZ, Sarra Wild and Groove Armada’s Andy Cato, with talks focusing on the intersection of culture and climate, exploring how music and entertainment can play a role in the fight against climate change. umaentertainment.com/ events/cop26-special-event

City Centre CC East End EE Finnieston, Partick FP Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock, Govan GKC Merchant City, Trongate MCT North N Southside S West End WE

Bars

Arta 62 Albion St MCT Babbity Bowster 16-18 Blackfriars St MCT Bananamoon 360 Great Western Rd WE Bar 91 91 Candleriggs MCT Bar Soba 11 Mitchell Ln CC Bier Halle 9 Gordon St CC Brel 37-42 Ashton Ln WE Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall St CC Chinaski’s 239 North St FP Delmonicas 68 Virginia St MCT DRAM! 232 Woodlands Rd WE Drygate 85 Drygate EE Dukes Bar 41 Old Dumbarton Rd FP Heraghty’s 708 Pollokshaws Rd S Hillhead Bookclub 17 Vinicombe St WE Katie’s Bar 17 John St MCT Koelschip Yard 686-688 Pollokshaws RdS Maggie May’s 60 Trongate MCT Max’s Bar & Grill 73 Queen St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Minnesota Fats 1053-1055 Cathcart Rd S Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Nice N Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall St CC Palais 380 Duke St EE Rufus T Firefly 207 Hope St CC Saramago Cafe and Bar, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Star Bar 537-539 Eglinton St S Stereo 22-28 Renfield Ln CC Strathduie Bar 3-5 Blackfriars St MCT Tabac 10 Mitchell Ln CC The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Allison Arms 720 Pollokshaws Rd S The Arlington 130 Woodlands Rd WE The Belle 617 Great Western Rd WE The Botany 795 Maryhill Rd N The BrewHaus (fka Crosslands) 182 Queen Margaret Dr N The Clutha 169 Stockwell St MCT The Dolphin 157 Dumbarton Rd FP The Doublet 74 Park Rd WE The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Flying Duck 42 Renfield St CC The Horseshoe Bar 17-19 Drury Ln CC The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Laurieston 58 Bridge St GKC The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The Old Toll Bar 1 Paisley Rd W GKC The Pot Still 154 Hope St CC The Scotia 112 Stockwell St MCT The Smiddy 309 Dumbarton Rd FP The Sparklehorse Dowanhill St FP The State Bar 148-184a Holland St CC The Thornwood 724 Dumbarton Rd FP The Three Judges 141 Dumbarton Rd FP The Underground 6A John St MCT The Variety Bar 401 Sauchiehall St CC Tramway 25 Albert Dr S WEST 15 Binnie Pl EE

Bookshops

A1 Toys 31 Parnie St MCT Aye Aye Books, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Burning House Books 446 Cathcart Rd S Caledonia Books 483 Great Western Rd WE Category Is Books 34 Allison St S Forbidden Planet 122-126 Sauchiehall St CC Good Press 32 St Andrew St EE Mount Florida Books 1069 Cathcart Rd S Outwith Books 14 Albert Dr S Oxfam Bookshop 330 Byres Rd WE Ripe Barras Market, Moncur St EE Tell It Slant 134 Renfrew St CC

Cafes & Bakeries

Banh Mi & Tea 401 Dumbarton Rd FP Bee’s Knees Cafe 83 Bowman St S Cafe D’Jaconelli 570 Maryhill Rd N Cafe Gandolfi 64 Albion St MCT Cafe Strange Brew 1082 Pollokshaws Rd S Celino’s 620 Alexandra Pde EE Comet Pieces 150 Queen Margaret Dr N Cottonrake Bakery 497 Great Western Rd WE Dear Green 13-27 E Campbell St EE East Coffee Company 30 Hillfoot St EE Gordon Street Coffee 79 Gordon St CC Grain and Grind 742 Pollokshaws Rd S Kaf 5 Hyndland St FP Kelvin Pocket 72 S Woodside Rd WE Kelvingrove Café 1161 Argyle St FP Kothel 536 Great Western Rd WE Laboratorio Espresso 93 W Nile St CC Mackintosh at the Willow 215-217 Sauchiehall St CC Mesa 567 Duke St EE

Milk 452 Victoria Rd S North Star Cafe 108 Queen Margaret Dr N Ocho 8 Speirs Wharf N Papercup 603 Great Western Rd WE Plantyful 3 Osborne St MCT Rawnchy 98 Bellgrove St EE Riverhill Coffee Bar 24 Gordon St CC Saramago Cafe and Bar, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Serenity Now 380 Great Western Rd WE Short Long Black 501 Victoria Rd S Singl-end 263 Renfrew St CC Singl-end 15 John St MCT Sprigg 241 Ingram St MCT Sweet Jane 434 Duke St EE Tantrum Doughnuts 28 Gordon St CC Tapa Coffee & Bakehouse 19-21 Whitehill St EE Tchai-Ovna House of Tea 42 Otago Ln WE Tennent’s Bar 191 Byres Rd WE Tinderbox 189 Byres Rd WE Transylvania Coffee Shop 462 Victoria Rd S University Cafe 87 Byres Rd WE

Cinemas

Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT) 12 Rose St CC

Clothes Shops

De Courcy’s Arcade 5-21 Cresswell Ln WE Minted 105 Kings Ct MCT Mr Ben 6 Kings Ct MCT Starry Starry Night 19 Dowanside Ln WE The Blankfaces 427 Great Western Rd WE The City Retro Fashion 41 King St MCT West Vintage 95 King St MCT

Food & Drink Shops

Babylon Supermarket 3-5 Commerce St GKC Aladdin’s 45 Commerce St GKC Locavore 449 Dumbarton Rd FP Lupe Pinto’s 313 Great Western Rd WE Valhalla’s Goat 449 Great Western Rd WE Roots, Fruits and Flowers 455 Great Western Rd WE SeeWoo 29 Saracen St N Society Zero 162 Queen Margaret Dr N

Food On-the-go

Baked 120 Duke St EE Beirut Star 450 Paisley Rd W GKC Brawsome Bagels 292 Dumbarton Rd FP Falafel To Go 116 Sauchiehall St CC Glasgow Sweet Centre 202 Allison St S Hooked 1027 Cathcart Rd S Kurdish Street Food 12-14 Allison St S MacTasso’s Kelvin Way FP Mrs Falafel 1 Ashley St WE Piece 100 Miller St MCT Shahed’s Takeaway 712 Pollokshaws Rd S Shawarma King 113 King St MCT

Galleries & Arts Venues

16 Nicholson St 16 Nicholson St GKC 20 Albert Road 20 Albert Rd S Carnival Arts Yard 124 Craighall Rd N Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA) 350 Sauchiehall St CC Civic House 26 Civic St N David Dale Gallery & Studios 161 Broad St EE French Street 103-109 French St WE Goethe-Institute 3 Park Circus EE Hunterian Gallery and Museum University of Glasgow, 82 Hillhead St WE Gallery of Modern Art 111 Queen St CC Glasgow Print Studio 103 Trongate MCT Glasgow School of Art’s Reid Building 164 Renfrew St CC Glasgow Sculpture Studios 2 Dawson Rd N Glasgow Women’s Library 23 Landressy St EE Govan Project Space 249 Govan Rd GKC Grey Wolf Studios 131 Craighall Rd N Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Argyle St WE Kendall Koppe 36-38 Coburg GKC Kiosk Gallery 25 Prince Edward St S Listen Gallery 204 Hunter St EE Market Gallery 334 Duke St EE Mount Florida Gallery/ Studios 37 Clincart Rd S Project Ability 103 Trongate MCT The Alchemy Experiment 157 Byres Rd WE The Art Launderette 39 Dalhousie St CC The Briggait 141 Bridgegate MCT The Common Guild 5 Florence St GKC The Glue Factory 15 Burns St N The Lighthouse 11 Mitchell Ln CC The Modern Institute 14-20 Osborne St MCT The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The Whisky Bond 2 Dawson Rd N Tramway 25 Albert Dr S Transmission Gallery 28 King St MCT Trongate 103 103 Trongate MCT SaltSpace 270 High St MCT Sharmanka 103 Trongate MCT South Block 60-64 Osborne St MCT Street Level Photography Works 103 Trongate MCT

Homeware & Gift Shops

A1 Toys 31 Parnie St MCT Fire Works Studio 35a Dalhousie St CC

Flowers Vermillion 18 St. Andrew St EE Maia Gifts 21 Bath St CC Ruthven Mews 57 Ruthven Ln WE Squid Ink Co 18 St Andrew St EE Submarine 8 Kent St EE Wild Gorse Pottery 684 Pollokshaws Rd S

Markets & Shopping Centres

Argyll Arcade 30 Buchanan St CC Buchanan Galleries 220 Buchanan St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Park Lane Market 974 Pollokshaws Rd S Platform 253 Argyle St CC Princes Square Buchanan St CC St Enoch Centre 55 St Enoch Sq CC The Barras Market 242 Gallowgate EE The Big Feed 249-325 Govan Rd GKC The Big Zero Waste Market The Deep End, 21 Nithsdale St S The Italian Centre 7 John St MCT The Savoy Centre 140 Sauchiehall St CC Zero Waste Market 17 Hillfoot St EE

Record Shops

Love Music 34 Dundas St CC Monorail Music 12 Kings Ct MCT Oxfam Music 171 Byres Rd WE

Restaurants

Banana Leaf 76 Old Dumbarton Rd FP Bar Soba 11 Mitchell Ln CC Basta 561 Dumbarton Rd FP Battlefield Rest 55 Battlefield Rd S Bibimbap 3 W Nile St CC Bread Meats Bread 65 St Vincent St CC Brutti Compadres 3 Virginia Ct MCT Cafe Cossachok 10 King St MCT Celentano’s 28-32 Cathedral Sq EE Celino’s 620 Alexandra Pde EE Celino’s 235 Dumbarton Rd FP Crabshakk 114 Argyle St FP Dumpling Monkey 121 Dumbarton Rd FP Eighty Eight 88 Dumbarton Rd FP El Perro Negro 152 Woodlands Rd WE Errols 379 Victoria Rd S Five March 140 Elderslie St FP Gloriosa 1321 Argyle St FP Halloumi 697 Pollokshaws Rd S Hanoi Bike Shop 8 Ruthven Ln WE Inn Deep 445 Great Western Rd WE Julie’s Kopitiam 1109 Pollokshaws Rd Ka Pao 26 Vinicombe St WE Kimchi Cult 14 Chancellor St WE Little Hoi An 26 Allison St S Maki & Ramen 21 Bath St CC Max’s Bar & Grill 73 Queen St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Mother India 28 Westminster Terr FP Nanakusa 441 Sauchiehall St CC New Anand 76 Nithsdale Rd S Niven’s 72 Nithsdale Rd S Non Viet 536 Sauchiehall St CC Osteria 17 John St MCT Paesano 94 Miller St MCT Paesano 471 Great Western Rd WE Pizza Punks 90 St Vincent St CC Rafa’s 1103 The Hidden Ln FP Ranjit’s Kitchen 607 Pollokshaws Rd S Sacred Tum Tacos 522 Victoria Rd S Sarti 121 Bath St CC Sarti 133 Wellington St CC Slice 15 John St MCT Stereo 22-28 Renfield Ln CC Sugo 70 Mitchell St CC Tabac 10 Mitchell Ln CC Te Seba 393 Great Western Rd WE The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Botany 795 Maryhill Rd N The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Finnieston 1125 Argyle St FP The Flying Duck 142 Renfield St CC The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Rum Shack 657-659 Pollokshaws Rd S Ting Thai Caravan 19 W Nile St CC Topolobamba 89 St Vincent St CC Ubiquitous Chip 12 Ashton Ln WE

Venues: Comedy Clubs

The Stand Comedy Club 333 Woodlands Rd WE

Venues: Live Music & Nightclubs

Arta 62 Albion St MCT AXM 90 Glassford St MCT Barrowland Ballroom 244 Gallowgate EE Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall St CC Glasgow Royal Concert Hall 2 Sauchiehall St CC King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut 272A St Vincent St CC La Cheetah 73 Queen St CC Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Nice N Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall St CC O2 Academy 121 Eglinton St GKC

Òran Mór Top of Byres Rd WE Polo Lounge 84 Wilson St MCT Queen Margaret Union 22 University Gardens WE Room 2 69 Nelson Mandela Pl CC SEC Armadillo Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP SEC Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP St Luke’s & The Winged Ox 17 Bain St EE Stereo 22 Renfield Ln CC Sub Club 22 Jamaica St CC SWG3 100 Eastvale Pl FP The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Berkeley Suite 237 North St FP The Briggait 141 Bridgegate MCT The Britannia Panopticon Music Hall 117 Trongate MCT The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Flying Duck 142 Renfield St CC The Glad Cafe 1006A Pollokshaws Rd S The Glue Factory 15 Burns St N The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The OVO Hydro Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP The Riding Room 58 Virginia St MCT The Whisky Bond 2 Dawson Rd N

Venues: Theatre & Dance

City for Contemporary Arts (CCA) 350 Sauchiehall St CC King’s Theatre 297 Bath St CC Sharmanka 103 Trongate MCT The Pavillion Theatre 121 Renfield St CC The Theatre Royal 282 Hope St CC Tramway 25 Albert Dr S Tron Theatre Company 63 Trongate MCT Webster’s Theatre 416 Great Western Rd WE

Visitor Attractions

Celtic Park Parkhead EE Climbing Academy’s Prop Store 24 Craigmont St N Clydeside Distillery 100 Stobcross Rd FP Disc Golf Course Ruchill Park N Firhill Stadium 80 Firhill Rd N Glasgow Science Centre 50 Pacific Quay GKC Gorbals Southern Necropolis Caledonia Rd GKC Govan Old Parish Church 866 Govan Rd GKC Ibrox Stadium 150 Edmiston Dr GKC Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Argyle St WE Loading Bay Skatepark Borron St N Mackintosh at the Willow 215-217 Sauchiehall St CC Pinkston Watersports 75 N Canal Bank St N Queen’s Cross Church 870 Garscube Rd N Riverside Museum 100 Pointhouse Rd FP Scotland Street School 225 Scotland St GKC The Children’s Wood and North Kelvin Meadow 76 Kelbourne St N The People’s Palace Glasgow Green, Templeton St EE The Tenement House 145 Buccleuch St CC

Photo: Liza Pooor

The Duke of Wellington Statue Glasgow City Guide

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Compiled by George Sully

Across 1. Duke of Wellington's frequent headgear (7,4) 9. Strolling (7) 10. Promised (5) 11. Friend (French) (3) 13. Mountaintops (8) 15. Condiments (4) 16. Scottish energy company (3) 17. Encourage e.g. a horse (4) 20. ___ Kelly – Scottish TV presenter (8) 21. Alcohol distilled from sugar cane (3) 23. Board (public transport) (3,2) 24. Stasis (7) 26. Major train station in Glasgow (5,6) Down 2. ___ C. Nesbitt (3) 3. Insubstantial (6) 4. Cheerful – pro idiots sing (anag) (2,4,7) 5. Study of good citizenship (6) 6. e.g. Daily Record, The Herald (9) 7. Lewis or Peter? (7) 8. Unusual (3) 12. Spontaneous (9) 14. Contemporary arts venue in Pollokshields (7) 18. Clockwork ___ – nickname for

Glasgow's subway (6) 19. Surface appearance (6) 22. What for? (3) 25. Draw (3)