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Artwork: Gemma Chalmers.
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Photo: Gemma Chalmers.
LONDON SURF FILM FESTIVAL // 5-1 FIN FAIR / / FULL CIRCLE / // DREAM CATCHING IN THE ALGARVE / BEACH CRUISING / THE MUSEUM OF BRITISH SURFING //...ENJOY!
#25. NOVEMBER ISSUE We’ve said goodbye to after work surfs here in the UK as the clocks have changed. Better make sure we pack our weekends with waves then...
Photo: Gemma Chalmers.
Evening sessions. September. Perranporth, Cornwall, UK.
Stephanie In The Water Off the plane from a win in Portugal and one step closer to her 6th world title, the presence of Stephanie Gilmore at the London Surf Film Festival certainly created a buzz in the air for the premier of her film ‘Stephanie In The Water’. There was a Q&A session with Steph and director Ava Warbrick after the film in which Steph admitted that it didn’t take long for the camera to become ‘just another friend’. Her relaxed nature around the camera, and close relationship with Ava allowed Steph to put her heart and soul into the film, which really shone through and allowed the audience inside the highs and lows of her career so far.
Our Brighton-based sliding representative Lucy, got fully involved, watching as much as she could of what this years LS/FF had to offer... here are reviews of her ‘standout’ film choices both of which were directed by ladyfilm makers... oh and check it out - she just happened to bump into Steph Gilmore - Epic.
Steph spoke in the film about being attacked in her home town, which set her back in her career physically, but the film gave a deeper insight into the emotional scars she sustained, and how she brought herself back from this, to where she is now – on track and in the running for a 6th world title. Clearly what she describes as ‘having the happiness knocked out of her’, is no match for the inner drive that Steph has to be number one. Her strategy – ‘just smash em’. The theme of the film festival was ‘story telling’ and I think Steph summed this up beautifully when she spoke about her free surfing outside of competition, describing it as ‘drawing on the water with the craft under your feet’ as if she is telling a story, or colouring outside the lines. I think this sums up how we all feel when we’re out there in the water, no matter how we’re sliding and what we’re sliding on!
Into T
Irish champion sur ocean was deeme would even be wav and willingness to how for her, ‘surfing language and cultu watching these wo
Easkey embarked down cultural barri shows how, throug understanding, and happiness. You ce
The Sea
rfer Easkey Britton decided to do something completely different – go to Iran, where there was no surf culture and where the ed to be the domain of men, and, wearing a hijab, become the first female surfer. It was a world of unknown, whether there ves, how they would be received, if they would be accepted. The film captures Easkey’s sense of adventure, her openness just accept what happens and ‘go with the flow’ on a journey where she had no idea where it would take her. She describes g pulls her out of worry and into the present’ which was the attitude that was needed on a surf adventure such as this, where ure were completely different. The response from the Iranian people was overwhelming and you cannot help but smile whist omen, children and then men, take to the water. Stoke spread like wildfire!
d upon this adventure not only to explore waves where no one had been before, but to use surfing as a means to break iers and gender based inequalities. As Easkey describes, hijab or not, the goal was to have fun – and fun they had. The film gh surfing there was a connection made between people and the ocean. It is from this connection that there is knowing and d therefore the elimination of fear. Through the film it is also made abundantly clear, the power that surfing has - to spread ertainly will walk out from this film with an open and happy heart, and a smile on your face. Words and inages: Lucy Morris, Brighton.
5-1
FIN FAIR
The second 5 to 1 Fin Fair event, from Approaching,Lines and presented by Reef kicked off on October 25th at Porthtowan Beach, Cornwall. A good turn out with plenty of frothing, even though the waves were wild and not exactly perfect. 5-1 is an event “with an emphasis on good vibes, good rides and good times, the contest – open to guys, girls and groms – consists of five categories: single fin; twinnie; Thruster; quad; and 5 fin, with a winner in each receiving accolades, a trophy, Reef goodies and a set of Shapers Fins of their choice!” Fun had by all, find out the results and heat breakdowns at approachinglines.com
Photo: Gemma Chalmers.
Photos: Gemma Chalmers.
5-1
FIN FAIR
Full Circle
My 6 year old niece Jasmine lives in New York and I only get to see her once every few years. This summer she came over for a visit and I knew that it was the perfect time to get her into surfing. I did a few seasons as a surf instructor and I know that kids of that age pick up surfing super quick; you’re so light and agile when you’re that small that it’s actually a lot easier to make those first difficult steps to get up on your feet and cruising on a wave. I didn’t start that young, although I wish I had…
Photo: Kit Stokes.
When I was about 14 years old I was on a family holiday in Lyme Regis and I popped into a surf shop near our flat and saw, for the first time in my life, a surf movie. After watching the film I was frothing! Surfing looked amazing, I didn’t understand it, and I had no idea if I could even try it, but it occupied my mind for the next few days. Needless to say the sea was flat and calm with no surfable waves in sight, as is pretty much always the case for Lyme Regis. My oldest sister, who had done a bit of surfing when she lived in New Zealand, took me back into the shop a few days later and bought me an instructional surf film on VHS (those were the days), made by a guy called Richard Schmidt I think. I must have watched that film a hundred times over the next few months and eventually got my chance to have a crack at surfing on the next family holiday, this time on the west coast of France. I haven’t looked back since…
Fast forward 15 years and I’m on Fistral beach on a nice sunny day in August with my niece, daughter of Andrea who bought me the surf film. There were nice little inside reform waves that looked ideal for Jasmine, so I borrowed a 6ft soft board from Big Green surf school in Newquay (thanks Dale) and towed her out into the shallows. All I told Jasmine was that once the board was going she needed to jump to her feet and get them in the middle of the board. She looked a bit confused, but trustingly waded out to give it a go. I saw a nice 1ft wave coming through and pulled the nose of the board round to line her up for it, and gently pulled the board along as the wave arrived, just enough to match the speed of the wave. That was it, she was off! She jumped straight up, wabbled a bit, shuffled her feet into the middle and rode the thing all the way into dry sand. She hopped off at the end like she’d done it a thousand times, and turned round revealing one stoked little face. I think she’s looking forward to the next visit for surf lesson number 2 - Cut backs. It definitely felt good to pass on the sliding stoke to the next generation.
Photos: Gemma Chalmers.
Kit Stokes, Truro, Cornwall.
Dream
Catching in the Algarve
Photo: Ana Parker, anaparkerphotography.com
Dream
Catching
Photo: Ana Parker.
in the Algarve
I am from Cornwall, currently living in the Portugal, working for the Algarve surf school. Since being here I have been painting a lot and learning to make dreamcatchers, starting with whatever I find on the beach and in run down abandoned buildings. I sell a few in ‘The Hangout’ the cafe I work in, and also the surf camp. Ruby Ash, The Algarve, Portugal.
Photos: Ruby Ash.
Photo: Ruby Ash.
Beach Crus
Artwork: Katie Rewse.
sing
We have had a lot of sunny days in Bournemouth this summer, but it’s safe to say we will be seeing less of those over the next few months. Instead I am looking forward to increased swell (minus the icicles inside my wetsuit), log fires, and long dark evenings that are the perfect time for creating. Winter can be very grey and gloomy, but during this time I think my illustrations actually get brighter and more colourful as I am dreaming of warm water, waves, and sunshine as well as thinking ahead to spring when I will dust off my beach cruiser for riding along the coast again.
Katie Rewse is an illustrator based on the South Coast. She creates illustrated goods such as prints, stationery and greetings cards, as well as working on apparel graphics and artwork for surfboards and skateboard decks. Using vibrant colours, playful patterns and a variety of medium, Katie’s work stems from her love of the sea, adventure, and travel. www.katierewse.com
ART::
Beach Cruiser, Katie Rewse, Bournmouth, UK.
The Museum of British Surfing held its annual volunteers celebration party, thanking them for giving the Braunton-based charity more than 1,000 hours of their time over the last year. Pub landlord & landlady Bryan & Carol Godwin generously donated a meal for the whole team and their partners at The Black Horse in Church Street, Braunton and raised £40 from a quiz night to help the organisation. The volunteers run the national surfing museum’s front of house operations welcoming thousands of visitors from all over the world every year. They are also working on the process of documenting the huge collection as part of the formal Arts Council England accreditation process, and they help with special fundraising events, exhibitions and graphic design. The Museum of British Surfing team also manages Braunton Skate Bowl and the local youth club building. Founder Peter Robinson paid tribute to the volunteers who have made the Museum of British Surfing an international hit: “If it weren’t for our wonderful volunteer team we wouldn’t be here in our third year, and already looking ahead to year four. It is a remarkable achievement and I’m truly grateful, thankful and proud of everyone who has helped.”
The museum is appealing for more people to join its volunteer team, as it hopes to expand in the next 12 months. Whether you’re a student looking to gain valuable work experience, a professional looking to give something back to community projects, or actively looking to get your foot on the charity or surf industry ladder, this opportunity is tailor-made for you. Find out more here: www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk
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