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© THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
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ABOUT US 7KH 6XVWDLQDEOH $QJOH LV DQ DZDUG ZLQQLQJ QRW IRU SURĂ€W RUJDQLVDWLRQ which initiates and supports projects that lower the environmental impact of industry and society. Our main project, the Future Fabrics Expo, was set up in 2011 and has now become the largest dedicated showcase of sustainably and responsibly-produced fabrics and materials for the fashion industry. WE CONNECT brands and designers with mills, suppliers and innovators in the fashion supply chain who produce sustainable fabrics and materials with a low environmental impact. WE RESEARCH sustainable material alternatives that are commercially available, and identify emerging innovations in the market. WE EDUCATE businesses and organisations about making informed decisions regarding the materials used for their products.
info@thesustainableangle.org | www.thesustainableangle.org | Š 2020 All Rights Reserved. The Sustainable Angle. 9th Future Fabrics Expo Image Credits: Paul Cochrane
Š THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
CONTENTS I N TR O D U C T ION >> Exclusive Link: Watch complete videos of the 9th Future Fabrics Expo Seminar Series
p. 7
T S A TO O L K IT
p. 21
01 | TSA’s Environmental Critera
p. 22
02 | 9 TO DEFINE: Systems Thinking For Design And Sourcing Principles For People, Planet And Prosperity
p. 24
03 | Materials Matrix
p. 26
04 | Global Fibre Basket
p. 30
05 | &HUWLÀFDWLRQV DQG 6WDQGDUGV
p. 34
06 | UNSDGs
p. 36
07 | Innovations: Our Future Materials Landscape
p. 38
F I B R E C A TE G ORIES
p. 46
01 | Grown from Nature: Cellulose from Plants
p. 48
02 | Grown from Nature: Protein Fibre from Animals
p. 50
03 | Natural Source Man Made Fibres
p. 52
04 | Leather and Alternative Materials
p. 54
05 | Recycled Materials and the New Economy
p. 58
06 | Water and Chemical Pollution
p. 60
F U TU R E FA B RICS VIRT UA L EX PO
p. 62
CO N C L U S I O N
p. 64
MI L L S + S U PPLIERS DIREC T ORY
p. 66
GL O S S A R Y
p. 134
R E FE R E N C E S
p. 136
6
© THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
INTRODUCTION
The Future Fabrics Expo was conceived and
working with safe and renewable materials, and
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implementing responsible practices throughout
6XVWDLQDEOH $QJOH :H ZHUH IRXQGHG LQ
the fashion supply chain, the industry can
to initiate and support projects that lower the
catalyse change.
environmental impact of industry and society. 7KH IDVKLRQ DQG WH[WLOH LQGXVWULHV DUH DPRQJVW
The 9th Future Fabrics Expo welcomed nearly 3000
WKH ZRUOGV PRVW SROOXWLQJ DQG WKXV EHFDPH
visitors during the two-day Expo and Press and
the main focus of our work. The Future Fabrics
Industry Preview event in an expansive 22,000
([SR ZDV LQLWLDWHG WR HIIHFW SRVLWLYH FKDQJH
sq ft gallery space. A record number of visitors
ZLWKLQ WKH LQGXVWU\ E\ FRQQHFWLQJ DQG SURPRWLQJ
attended from all over the world, representing
innovators and suppliers of sustainable materials
the scope of the industry: ranging from luxury
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brands and high-street retailers to small designers
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and start-ups, academics and students. Visitors
sustainable materials that meet this critera
were led on a journey through the Expo, which
became our main task. We contextualize this
was anchored by a graphic adaptation of artist
activity with the provision of much needed
Sarah Lazarovic’s “Buyerarchy� (inspired by
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Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs). The Buyerarchy
LQ WH[WLOHV YLD ZRUNVKRSV DQG LQIRUPDWLYH HYHQWV
expressed the philosophy of enjoying what you have, valuing and caring for products by
a
reinventing and mending, and engaging in the
consolidation of our experience in materials
second-hand economy — actions that establish
research,
fashion systems which are responsibly-sourced
The
9th
Future
Fabrics
identifying,
Expo
represents
showcasing
and
FRPPXQLFDWLQJ WKH SRVLWLYH EHQHĂ€WV RI D
and produced, and that consciously work to:
diverse range of globally-sourced, responsiblyproduced, low impact textiles, materials and
•
Clean Up Oceans
innovations. Through the Expo, we aim to inform,
•
Restore Soil Health
promote and connect visionary designers and
•
Increase Biodiversity
brands with sustainable suppliers who realise
•
Action Climate Positive Effects
that fashion has the power to have a positive impact upon nature and communities. By
Š THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
7
8
INTRODUCTION
, WKLQN WKH WLPH LV ULJKW IRU WKH ZKROH industry to become part of the resistance. I really believe in the transformative and revolutionary power of fashion. &<5,// *876&+ 3$5/(< )25 7+( 2&($16
The Buyerarchy calls for a UHIUDPLQJ RI RXU
provided access to expertise in our Info Hub.
relationship with fashion products and the
This content connected to and informed the
unsustainable linear business model that feeds
6HPLQDU 3URJUDPPH, featuring speakers and
our current fashion system.
thought leaders from these and some of the PRVW LQĂ XHQWLDO RUJDQLVDWLRQV LQ VXVWDLQDEOH
Descending into the Expo space, key headlines
textiles and fashion.
and quotes from thought leaders summarised our current critical climate emergency, leading our
Over 7000 material and textile solutions that
visitors into calls for action and urgent change
spanned all raw material categories from 230
in industry practices at the outset. The headlines
global suppliers were showcased, alongside
framed many of the concerns addressed during
an
our seminar series schedule. Representatives
'HVLJQ -RXUQH\V showcase and a specially
from key organisations such as Textile Exchange,
commissioned UNSDGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s installation, created by
Fashion Roundtable, Fashion Revolution, the
digital innovation agency Holition.
Innovation
Hub,
manufacturers
space,
Responsible Wool Standard and Soil Association,
Click here to watch the full 9th Future Fabrics Expo Seminar Series in partnership with Parley
Š THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
INTRODUCTION
Reference: “The Buyerarchy of Needs.” The Sustainable Angle, adapted from Sarah Lasarovic, 2020
9
10
INTRODUCTION
WH Y M A TE RIA LS MA T T ER
THE IMPER ATIV E FOR ACTION
Materials matter: they represent the beginning of
In recent years, we have felt a gathering
the design journey, embodying tactile promise,
surge of interest in sustainability and felt the
expressing the creativity and substance of new
¶WLSSLQJ SRLQW· KDG Ã&#x20AC;QDOO\ DUULYHG LQ ERWK
fashion products. They also account for highly
citizen action and fashion industry realisation.
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Growing consumer awareness, informed by
95% of a products impact can be attributed to the
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material choice alone. In regard to sustainability
have
impacts, the most powerful and positive outcomes
mobilising rapidly into effective organisations.
can come from the materials that our industry uses.
These activities have shone a spotlight on the
galvanised
environmental
activists,
devastating environmental and human cost of If raw materials are sourced from regenerative and
the broken economic model in the fashion and
restorative farming systems, the fashion industry
textiles industries.
can help mitigate the climate crisis and deliver EHQHÃ&#x20AC;WV IRU QDWXUH DQG SHRSOH ,W LV HVWLPDWHG
This Changes Everything author Naomi Klein
that 30% of the need for climate action to remain
quotes the geophysicist Brad Werner, stating
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that ´JOREDO FDSLWDOLVP KDG PDGH WKH GHSOHWLRQ
VROXWLRQV· VXFK DV UHJHQHUDWLYH DJULFXOWXUH. We
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need to urgently rethink our relationship with the
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resources that provide our material needs, and
GDQJHURXVO\ XQVWDEOH LQ UHVSRQVHµ. However,
actively engage in positive sourcing and practices
Werner and Klein believe that there is one source
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of friction that could slow down and even derail
waste streams intelligently. The Future Fabrics Expo
the machine â&#x20AC;&#x201D; mass resistance movements.
provides the inspiration, knowledge and solutions
Direct action by environmentalists, such as
that look forward to a new materials landscape,
Extinction Rebellion, and the millions of school
and to the birth of responsible systems and models
children inspired into action by Greta Thunberg,
for the future of fashionâ&#x20AC;¦
prove that resistance can be a powerful countervailing force.
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© THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
INTRODUCTION
The rapidly escalating TAKE > MAKE > WASTE
exploring nature-based solutions or emerging
linear system fuelled by the demands of
business models that operate creatively with
fast fashion is responsible for the depletion
product re-use, and embracing the circular
of resources, polluting eco systems, social
economy and clean energy sources. In 2017,
inequalities and for generating catastrophic
Greenpeace called on the fashion industry to
waste mountains. A quarter of our industry
slow down and rethink the way it does business.
resources are wasted as fabric and garment
Their publication Fashion at the Crossroads
leftovers — around 500 billion US dollars worth of
challenged the way circularity was being
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every year, according to the Ellen MacArthur
enable business-as-usual, without addressing the
Foundation.
systemic change that is needed.
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimates that
Internet searches for sustainable fashion tripled
textile production (of which over 60% is destined
between 2016 and 2019, highlighting how the
for clothing) is responsible for 1.2 billion tonnes of
growth in consumer demand is a force the
CO2 emissions each year — more than maritime
industry cannot ignore. Meanwhile: “66 percent
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of respondents to a US Mckinsey survey and
total, the industry is responsible for almost 10% of
(75% of millennial respondents) say they consider
global CO2 emissions, and 93 billion cubic metres
sustainability when making a luxury purchase”
of water are used in textile production every year.
(Business of Fashion/ Mckinsey, 2020).
The Special Report on Global Warming of 1.5% (SR15) was published by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) in October 2018. It revealed that human activities are estimated to have caused approximately 1.0°C global warming above pre-industrial levels. Global warming is likely to reach 1.5°C between 2030 and 2050 if it continues to increase at the current rate. Our accelerating impacts upon the earth are threatening the future of our planet and the life support systems that we depend upon, unless we all take action now. The fashion and textile industries now face their biggest challenge — FOLPDWH FKDQJH
— and we have no option
but to urgently embrace the challenge and opportunities that address it. This includes investing in new research and technologies,
11
12
INTRODUCTION
Material Milestones... The 2020 9th Edition of the Future Fabrics Expo
VFLHQWLVWV UHJDUG WKH LQĂ XHQFH RI KXPDQ
welcomed the new decade with renewed
behaviour on Earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s atmosphere in recent
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FHQWXULHV DV VR VLJQLĂ&#x20AC;FDQW WKDW LW QHFHVVLWDWHV D
practices.
new geological term.
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7KH Âś$QWKURSRFHQH¡ GHĂ&#x20AC;QHV WKH DGYHQW RI WKH
climate crisis we are all beginning to experience
Industrial Revolution, which was heralded by
can be attributed to the activities of man.
the invention of the steam engine in 1780 and drove human activity that brought profound
The term â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Anthropoceneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is a newly designated
environmental impacts on the earth.
geological era, widely popularised in 2000 by atmospheric chemist Paul J. Crutzen. Many
Synthetics 1690 Recycled Cotton
Cotton
Regen Cellulosics
Bast Fibres
1880s Rayon
1690 Recycled Linen
1920s Acetate
1930s Neoprene
1940s Nylon
1950s Polyester, Acrylic, Triacetate
1960s Spandex
1969 GORETEX
1970
Ultra Suede
1900s Viscose
commercially available
1884 Vulcanisation of Rubber
Leather Silk 1800s Wool Recycling
Wool
1800s Cashmere Recycling
STONE AGE TO IRON AGE 6000BC - 500AD
MIDDLE AGES 400AD - 1500s
INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION 1700s - 1800s
EARLY 20TH CENTURY 1920 - 1975
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James Loveloc of humanity we balance of the
The world largest conservation organiSation WWF is founded.
Greenpeace is founded by environmental activists Irving and Dorothy Stowe.
Rachel Carson publishes SILENT SPRING about the damage caused by the chemical industry upon the environment.
7KH Ă&#x20AC;UVW ,QWHUQDWLRQDO 8QLWHG 1DWLRQV &RQIHUHQFH RQ WKH +XPDQ (QYLURQPHQW takes place in Stockholm in response to the growing awareness of environmental issues.
Global 2000 Re UHFRJQL]HV ELRG critical to the p planetary ecos nature of ecosy extinction.
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Limits to Growthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; report published by the Club of Rome.
7KH R]RQH OD\H discovered by s Brian Gardiner
Our Common F The World Com and Developm economic, cult and global solu â&#x20AC;&#x153;sustainable de
UN World Comm Development.
:RUOG SRSXODWLRQ HVWLPDWHG WR EH PLOOLRQ
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7KRPDV 0DOWKXV HVVD\ ZDUQV RI WKH Ă&#x20AC;QLWH nature of resources in relation to population.
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Biosphere: Intergovernmental Conference for Rational Use and Conservation of the Biosphere (UNESCO) is held; early discussions of the concept of ecologically sustainable development.
Friends of the Earth forms as an advocacy organization dedicated to the prevention of environmental degradation, the preservation of diversity and the role of citizens in decision making.
Thank you to Josefin Landalv and Kate Goldsworthy, UAL, for their research contribution to the above timeline.
Š THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
â&#x20AC;˘ *OREDOLVDWLRQ 2II
7KDQN \RX WR -RVHĂ&#x20AC;Q /DQGDOY DQG .DWH *ROGZRUWK\ 8$/
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INTRODUCTION
The effects of the Industrial Revolution have seen
The global population is expected to reach
an increase in CO2 emissions, rising sea levels,
QHDUO\ ELOOLRQ E\ VHH Ă&#x20AC;JXUHV EHORZ LQ
and the transformation of land by deforestation
red), and fashion consumption is projected to
DQG GHVHUWLĂ&#x20AC;FDWLRQ 7KLV KDV GLVUXSWHG ELRVSKHUH
increase 81% by 2030, according to The Pulse of
integrity (see â&#x20AC;&#x153;Planetary Boundariesâ&#x20AC;? diagram
the Fashion Industry 2019 Update, published by
on
the Global Fashion Agenda.
p.14)
and
therefore
the
balance
of
13
biogeochemical cycles, as well as the ability of chemical elements and substances to transfer in
â&#x20AC;&#x153;Anyone who believes LQ LQGHĂ&#x20AC;QLWH JURZWK RQ D SK\VLFDOO\ Ă&#x20AC;QLWH SODQHW LV either mad or an economist.â&#x20AC;?
natural balance between living systems and the environment. This timeline charts the history and links to the trajectory of growth in our relationship with material sources, and maps the key milestones and technological advances that led up to the
- SIR DAVID ATTENBOROUGH
Industrial Revolution, and eventually to key raw materials being intensively farmed as commodities.
Biofabrication 1980s Micro Fibres
2000s Spider Silk
1990s Introduction of GMOs for Cotton
2000s Algae Based
2007 Mycelium Leather
2010s Recycled Cotton
2014 Ocean Plastic Textiles
1990s Lyocell
2017 Biofabricated Leather
2017 TENCELâ&#x201E;˘ with REFIBRAâ&#x201E;˘ technology recycled cotton x regen cellulose
REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE FOR FASHION
AGE 0
RECLAIM + BIOFABRICATE 2000 -
G PLFURĂ&#x20AC;EUH WHFKQRORJ\
â&#x20AC;˘ ,QFUHDVH LQ UHF\FOLQJ WHFKQRORJ\ â&#x20AC;˘ %LRV\QWKHWLFV IURP IRRG ZDVWH â&#x20AC;˘ %LRIDEULFDWHG OHDWKHU E\ 0RGHUQ 0HDGRZ
HG ORRS O\RFHOO WHFKQRORJ\
IVKRUH PDQXIDFWXULQJ DQG IDVW IDVKLRQ
PLFDO FRPSDQ\ 0RQVDQWR FRQGXFWV WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW Ă&#x20AC;HOG WHVWV RI JHQHWLFDOO\ PRGLĂ&#x20AC;HG FURSV
ckâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gaia notes that the actions ere upsetting the ecological e Earth.
eport is released. This report GLYHUVLW\ IRU WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW WLPH DV proper functioning of the system. It asserts that the robust ystems is weakened by species
HU KROH DERYH $QWDUWLFD LV scientists Jonathan Shanklin, and Joe Farman.
Future (Brundtland Report): mmission on Environment ment weaves together social, tural, and environmental issues utions. Popularizing the term evelopment.â&#x20AC;?
mission on Environment and
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change established to assess the most up-to-date VFLHQWLĂ&#x20AC;F WHFKQLFDO DQG VRFLRHFRQRPLF UHVHDUFK LQ WKH Ă&#x20AC;HOG
The United Nations Earth Summit conference is held in Rio de Janeiro, providing a platform for UN member states to collaborate on sustainability issues.
UN Conference on Environment and Development: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The major cause of the continued deterioration of the global environment is the unsustainable pattern of consumption and production, particularly in industrialized countries, which is a matter of grave concern, aggravating poverty and imbalances.â&#x20AC;? :RUOG &RQIHUHQFH RQ +XPDQ 5LJKWV *RYHUQPHQWV UH DIĂ&#x20AC;UP WKHLU LQWHUQDWLRQDO commitments to all human rights.
World Summit for Social Development held LQ &RSHQKDJHQ 7KH Ă&#x20AC;UVW WLPH WKDW WKH international community has made a clear commitment to eradicate poverty.
World Summit on Sustainable Development.
Rio +20 UN Conference on Sustainable Development.
Launch of Marrakesh Process on Sustainable Consumption and production.
Parley for the Oceans founded by Cyrill Gutsch.
7KH .\RWR 3URWRFRO ZDV DGRSWHG 7KH Ă&#x20AC;UVW international agreement between nations to reduce greenhouse gas emissions country-bycountry. It emerged from the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), which was signed by nearly all nations at the WKH (DUWK 6XPPLW LQFOXGLQJ 86$
Thinning of glaciers and the polar ice caps increases. Evidence suggests that the increase in frequency and severity of KXUULFDQHV LQ WKH $WODQWLF DQG UHODWHG VWRUP damage may be attributable to climate change.
Fashion Revolution founded by Orsola de Castro and Cary Somers in the wake of the Rana Plaza factory collapse claiming 1,134 lives in Bangladesh.
Global environmental and food security FRQFHUQV UDLVHG RYHU JHQHWLFDOO\ PRGLĂ&#x20AC;HG (GM) food products. The EU blocks import of *0 FURSV IURP 1RUWK $PHULFD DQG IDUPHUV in developing countries rebel against â&#x20AC;&#x153;terminator technology,â&#x20AC;? seeds that will only germinate once. :RUOG SRSXODWLRQ UHDFKHV ELOOLRQ
Kyoto Protocol enters into force, legally binding Developed countries to limit and UHGXFH *+* HPLVVLRQV (VWDEOLVKPHQW RI Ă H[LEOH PDUNHW PHFKDQLVPV ZKLFK DUH EDVHG on the trade of emissions permits. Copenhagen COP-15 political intent to constrain carbon and respond to climate change in both short and long terms, and how the poorest nations may cope with climate change.
The launch of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (UNSDGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s).
*OREDO )DVKLRQ $JHQGD SXEOLVKHV WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW Pulse Report on the environmental impacts of the fashion and textiles industries.
French President Emmanuel Macron appoints .HULQJ 6$ &(2 )UDQFRLV +HQUL 3LQDXOW WR OHDG a global fashion industry sustainability drive â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the fashion pactâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.
$FWLYLVW *UHWD 7KXQEHUJ VDLOV DFURVV WKH $WODQWLF 2FHDQ WR 1HZ <RUN &LW\ IRU WKH 81 Climate Summit
Mary Creagh chairs the UK Parliamentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (QYLURQPHQWDO $XGLW FRPPLWWHH RI WKH +RXVH of Commons which publishes Fixing Fashion report with 18 recommendations to the JRYHUQPHQW WR Ă&#x20AC;[ IDVKLRQ
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By this date, according to the United Nations, carbon emissions must be reduced by 45% in order to keep to global temperatures from rising more than 1.5 degrees Celsius, to keep the planet healthy and habitable.
It is estimated that 50 million people will be exposed to the threat of increased coastal Ă RRGLQJ GXH WR ULVLQJ VHD OHYHOV
By this date, according to the United Nations, global CO2 emissions must reach zero to avoid climate breakdown.
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16
INTRODUCTION
5HVWRULQJ 1DWXUH +RZ Fashion Can Contribute
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Fashion, mainly through its use of raw materials,
XVH UHJHQHUDWLYH DJULFXOWXUDO SUDFWLFHV ZH FDQ
can contribute positively to people and planet
KHOS UHVWRUH RXU VRLOV DQG UHJHQHUDWH WKH QDWXUDO
by embracing nature-based solutions such as
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regenerative agriculture, to achieve set science-
FRQWULEXWLQJ WR GHFDUERQLVLQJ WKH SODQHW
based targets.
DI VE R S I FY IN G T H E F IBRE BA SKET Through its use of agricultural raw materials, the fashion industry and its supply chains are directly linked to the degradation of soil, conversion of natural ecosystems and biodiversity loss. Recent farming practices over the last decades saw crops
continually
growing
in
monocultural
systems. Consequently, soil is being â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;minedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for its nutrients and there are few natural processes that still function to restore soil structure and function.
All this leads to massive chemical
pollution, nutrient imbalances in soil, loss of water cycling, poor carbon retention and, ultimately, land deterioration and degradation.
© THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fashion is so intrinsically OLQNHG WR DJULFXOWXUH ODQG and forests - it is now time WR DVN KRZ ZH FDQ JLYH back. There is a real shift KDSSHQLQJ IDVKLRQ LV D ELW ODWH WR WKH SDUW\ EXW LW KDV DQ incredible role to play in this QH[W GHFDGH RI FKDQJH µ '5 +(/(1 &52:/(< /,8 :$/721 )(//2: 6(1,25 $'9,625 5(6,/,(17 6833/< &+$,16 CONSERVATION INTERNATIONAL
INTRODUCTION
1DWXUH LV GHFOLQLQJ DW D UDWH XQSUHFHGHQWHG LQ KXPDQ KLVWRU\ ZLWK RQH PLOOLRQ VSHFLHV now threatened with extinction. This GHJUDGDWLRQ RI QDWXUH DIIHFWV VRFLHW\ DV D ZKROH LQFOXGLQJ EXVLQHVVHV WKDW UHO\ RQ QDWXUDO UHVRXUFHV OLNH WKH IDVKLRQ LQGXVWU\ A critical action point has been reached: EXVLQHVVHV QHHG WR FUHDWH QHZ VWUDWHJLHV that will transform their relationship with QDWXUH VDIHJXDUGLQJ WKHLU RSHUDWLRQV ZKLOH DW WKH VDPH WLPH WDNLQJ UHVSRQVLELOLW\ IRU WKHLU impacts on the natural world. DEVELOPING A CORPORATE BIODIVERSITY STRATEGY: A PRIMER FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRY KERING AND UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE INSTITUTE FOR SUSTAINABILITY LEADERSHIP 2020
17
18
INTRODUCTION
© THE SUSTAINABLE ANGLE 2020
INTRODUCTION
Another important way for fashion to support ELRGLYHUVLW\ LV E\ ÂśGLYHUVLI\LQJ¡ RXU SRUWIROLR RI Ă&#x20AC;EUHV and materials. Currently, the fashion industry relies on a handful of plants and animal sources
MITIGATE THE CL IMATE CR ISIS â&#x20AC;˘
In order to keep global warming below a 1.5°C pathway between now and 2100,
to produce the bulk of our fashion products.
greenhouse gas emissions must be reduced
Furthermore, some of these raw materials utilise
urgently.
DJULFXOWXUDO SUDFWLFHV ZKLFK GHSOHWH RXU Ă&#x20AC;QLWH natural resources (i.e. water and soil) or apply
â&#x20AC;˘
Restoring soil health is an essential â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;naturebased solutionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and regenerative agriculture
non-renewable resources in their production,
is the most effective way to restore soil
such as synthetic fertilisers that are harmful to
structure and function.
the environment. By using different species of plants and animals for our raw material needs,
â&#x20AC;˘
It has been estimated that if we converted all
global
croplands
and
pastures
to
and with careful regional consideration, we
regenerative organic agriculture we could
can avoid the over-exploitation of our resources
sequester more than 100% of current annual
and contribute to restoring biodiversity. In
CO2 emissions (Rodale Institute, 2019).
IDFW IDVKLRQ FDQ EHQHĂ&#x20AC;W FUHDWLYHO\ IURP WKH sustainable and responsible use of natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s existing diversity and balance. Beyond lowering the environmental impacts
R ESTOR E B IOD IV ER SITY â&#x20AC;˘
friendly approaches help restore the balance
of the industry, fashion can and should play a positive and transformative role: where nature and communities take centre stage with the
Good stewardship of land and wildlifeof natural ecosystems and protect species.
â&#x20AC;˘
Sustainable farming ecosystems can share the landscape with native wildlife.
industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s use of safe and renewable materials; where regenerative, restorative and circular practices form the basis of the fashion supply chain. For a positive impact to occur, fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s industrial actions need to protect our oceans,
PR OTECT THE OCEANS â&#x20AC;˘
Regenerative
agricultural
systems
avoid
the use of hazardous chemicals, ensuring
halt and prevent biodiversity loss, and improve
healthier soils, increasing soilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s water holding
soil fertility, therefore, locking carbon emissions
capacity and resulting in healthier oceans.
back in the ground.
,I JOREDO FURSODQGV DQG SDVWXUHV DUH FRQYHUWHG WR UHJHQHUDWLYH DJULFXOWXUH ZH FRXOG UHVWRUH WKHVH GHJUDGHG JUDVVODQGV DQG sequester more than 100% of current annual CO2 emissions. - RODALE INSTITUTE
19
136
REFERENCES $ 1HZ 7H[WLOHV (FRQRP\ 5HGHVLJQLQJ )DVKLRQ·V Future Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017)
,QWHUQDWLRQDO :RRO 7H[WLOH 2UJDQLVDWLRQ http://www.iwto.org/
Biofabricate https://www.biofabricate.co/
Pesticide Action Network UK https://www.pan-uk.org/
&(2 $JHQGD Global Fashion Agenda Circular Fibres Initiative Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2018) Circulytics Ellen MacArthur Foundation Fashion at the Crossroads Greenpeace (2017) Fashion and Environment White Paper British Fashion Council x DHL and Centre for Sustainable Fashion (2019) 'HVWLQDWLRQ =HUR VHYHQ \HDUV RI GHWR[LQJ WKH FORWKLQJ LQGXVWU\ Greenpeace https://storage.googleapis.com/planet4international-stateless/2018/07/destination_zero_ report_july_2018.pdf 'HWR[LQJ WKH )DVKLRQ ,QGXVWU\ IRU 'XPPLHV Frank Michel & Steve Kaelble (2020) 'HYHORSLQJ D &RUSRUDWH %LRGLYHUVLW\ 6WUDWHJ\ $ Primer for the Fashion Industry Kering and University of Cambridge Insitute for Sustainability Leadership (2020) Fashioned From Nature Edited by Edwina Ehrman V&A Publications (2018) Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion - and the Future of Clothes Dana Thomas (2019) )L[LQJ )DVKLRQ Environmental Audit Committee (2019)
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report Textile Exchange (2018) Pulse Report Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group (2017) Pulse Report Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group (2018) 5LVH DQG 5HVLVW +RZ WR &KDQJH WKH :RUOG Clare Press (2018) 6SHFLDO 5HSRUW RQ *OREDO :DUPLQJ RI Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) (2018) 7H[WLOH ([FKDQJH 3UHIHUUHG )LEHU 0DWHULDOV Market Report The State of Fashion 2020 Business of Fashion McKinsey & Company 7KLV &KDQJHV (YHU\WKLQJ Naomi Klein (2014) 7KUHDGLQJ WKH 1HHGOH :HDYLQJ WKH 6XVWDLQDEOH 'HYHORSPHQW *RDOV ,QWR 7KH 7H[WLOH $SSDUHO $QG Retail Industry Textile Exchange (2018) 8QVXVWDLQDEOH &DWWOH 5DQFKLQJ WWF, https://wwf. panda.org/knowledge_hub/where_we_work/ amazon/amazon_threats/unsustainable_cattle_ ranching/ (2020)
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