September 23-29, 2020 EAT & DRINK
W I N E R IE S OF T H E S IE R R A FOOTHILLS
Andis Wines S TO RY BY BA R BA R A K E C K | P H OTO S BY J O H A N M A R T I N
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Andy Friedlander | Courtesy Andis Wines
H
usband and wife Andy Friedlander and Janis Akuna chose the perfect next career step for themselves when they decided to build a winery in Amador County. True to their business background, they went about it methodically. But it wasn’t all smooth sailing when the idea first came up. Andy had sold his commercial real estate firm in Hawaii, and Janis started wondering how best to funnel all that Andyenergy. “She told me I wasn’t challenged like I used to be, and that she didn’t want me to end up sitting in a chair drooling,” he chuckles.
“Everybody has a different palate. We make about 15 different types. … We want to make delicious, distinctive wines, and we’re doing that.” –Andy Friedlander When she proposed they start a winery, Andy’s initial reaction was “not fit for publication.” After some thought, he said that he saw the value of the proposition. Even more, he was eager to figure out how to make the venture successful. “I’m a businessman. This wasn’t a vanity project. It had to make money.” In search of a location, they quickly ruled out Napa since they thought that it had become much more commercial since they sold their second home there in 2000. An invitation to visit friends living in Amador County presented another option. “It was the first time I went there, and I fell in love,” he recalls. “You saw the tractors on the road. The vineyard owners were accessible and welcoming. I thought: ‘We could do this here.’ ”
They found their spot in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley in 2009, purchasing a property planted predominantly with 30-year-old Zinfandel grapes; about 25 acres under vine. Immediately they set to work applying a favorite business principle: “Surround yourself with the best people you can possibly find and use their strengths to make everything better.” Andy’s keen eye for talent led him to a good team to get the winery under way – a creative architecture firm and a contractor who truly understood the land. Together they designed and built a striking, modern 17,000-square-foot facility in which to produce great wine. Relationships forged during construction continue to play an important role. Andy describes how he came to make Andis Wines’ much-loved Semillon, which “opened doors and put us on the map.” (The 2013 vintage earned a Best of Class designation from the San Francisco Chronicle.) Andis’ production is supported by several technical innovations that improve on the process. For instance, the fermentation and barrel rooms use swamp (evaporative) cooling, not air conditioning, for climate control. It’s a much more efficient and economical approach. An assortment of concrete aging tanks and a tasting room with wines on tap are other examples of his willingness to venture out on the leading edge. “Trying different things, instead of always relying on tradition, keeps it fun,” Andy comments. Musing about what makes a good wine, Andy replies thoughtfully, “Everybody has a different palate. We make about 15 different types. I can’t say what makes a good wine. We try to make wine true to the varietal, not adjusting to fit a pre-determined flavor profile. We want to make delicious, distinctive wines, and we’re doing that.” Andis Wine is located in Plymouth and hosting tastings outside at private tables by reservation only. | (209) 245-6177, andiswines.com.
Plenty of Outdoor Seating Spindleshankstahoe.com | 400 Brassie Ave, Suite B · Kings Beach | (530) 546.2191
Kings Beach Full Service on Patio & Takeout orders 12:00pm-8:00pm
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(530) 546-4539 8345 North Lake Blvd. - Across from the State Beach in Kings Beach
EDITOR’S NOTE: This is an excerpt from the
second edition of the popular guidebook “Wineries of the Sierra Foothills: Risk-Takers & RuleBreakers” available now on Amazon. All sales support Tahoe Weekly.
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