Thomasville Townie’s
Road Trip
The Forgotten Coast From Carrabelle to Port Saint Joe
Writing + Photography by Jennifer Westfield Published by Bunny Byrne
Summer 2013
You need a Road Trip... When my Father moved to Tallahassee and I first drove the span of the Forgotten Coast back in the 1990’s, I thought I was driving through a time capsule—a time capsule travel guides refer to as “Old Florida,” because somehow, developers have left this stretch of coastal perfection almost entirely untouched. There is something about this strip of undeveloped coastline—its kind and resilient people, disarming sunsets, the ramshackle facades of its seafood shacks and shell shops, where the only high rises are the miles of pines along primitive beaches, and where there isn’t an Applebee’s for eighty miles—which completely redefines the term “vacation,” and which inspired the road trip articles that have appeared in the Townie since May. The eBook was the brainchild of the Editrix-in-Chief, Bunny Byrne, and I couldn’t have been happier to get back on Coastal Highway 98 and do the research, if that’s what you’d call devouring fresh seafood, tubing, camping, shooting jaw-dropping sunsets, and touching base with some of my favorite business owners (down there, most of them work behind the counters or in the kitchens of their establishments). We wanted Thomasville to know how close they were to the area, and, of course, where to eat, sleep, pitch a tent, launch a boat, and find a nice booze concoction.
For nearly half of my life I’ve returned to the towns along the Forgotten Coast, the single-story shops and mom-andpop eateries, and have experienced a comfort of familiarity, no matter how long I’d been away. The fact that they have to travel three miles by boat to buy groceries does not deter Dog Islanders; homeowners on the west end of Dog Island lie completely exposed from Gulf to Bay, for lack of vegetation—hurricanes may take their homes, but they’ll take their chances; Every time I reach the base of the Gorrie Bridge and pass The Old Time Soda Fountain, I realize it was in Apalachicola before automobiles or the Gorrie Bridge. This area between St. Mark’s and Mexico Beach is only accessible via two regional airports on either side {which cost tourists an arm and a leg to fly in and out of} or by vehicle {the start of coastal Highway 98 is roughly 80 miles southwest ofThomasville}, which accounts for its remoteness, but makes us, by virtue of location, lucky indeed. I’ve never seen a television ad for the Forgotten Coast, a plush mascot souvenir nor a booze-cruise vessel in the area, but since I’ve found this place, what I always take home with me {aside from an SD card full of photographs} is a heightened awareness of the unimportance of most of what I’ve left back in town. —Jennifer W.
“what I always take home with me...is a heightened awareness of the unimportance of most of what I’ve left back in town.“
Saint George Island
Saint George Island might be a popular destination for local Spring Breakers and during the island’s annual chili cook-off, but there’s no need to think you’ll have to crab walk over a minefield of beach towels, boom-boxes and bodies to get in and out of the Gulf, even during the busiest summer Saturdays. The best thing about SGI is the vast expanse of sea oat-dressed dunes and endless powdery sand plots along the island’s twenty-nine miles of pristine beach where there is plenty of room for all. There are two hotels on the island and over three hundred beach house and condo rentals available for every family size and budget—find them on TripAdvisor.com, and book ahead because they fill up fast. If you’d rather watch for shooting stars while be-
ing lulled to sleep by the surf, book one of the primitive campsites within Saint George Island State Park. Hike two-and-a-half miles out to the primitive sites from a trailhead in the main camping area, or rent a kayak from Journey’s, put in at the park’s boat launch and row out half a mile. If you choose the hike, it will make that IPA you crack open after pitching your tent a reward indeed. After you’ve had enough UV exposure, nosh on shrimp pizza and play air hockey at B.J.’s, or head over to the Blue Parrot Café for a Sand Blaster—a frozen fruity rum concoction that will take the edge off your sunburn. Harry A’s is where to finish the night, with live local music, karaoke, and dancing until the wee hours.
Saint George Island
Harry A’s
Seafood - Burgers - Big Salads Patio Dining - Live Music 850-927-3400 - 28 W. Bayshore Drive
www.harryasrestaurant.com
Passwords are like underwear. Don’t leave them out where people can see them. Change them regularly. Don’t loan them out to strangers.
Al Calabrese... (727) 798-1259
Saint George Island
170 Big Star Drive, Thomasville GA 31757 (229) 977-5707 www.thomasvillecrossfit.com
107 North Broad Street, Thomasville, GA 31792 (229) 236-0322 www.cfswealth.com
Saint George Island
Book your holiday beach portraits!
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Saint George Island
Fair Trade & Eco Friendly
Earthlover Shopping
229-985-5141 114 S. Broad St. Downtown Thomasville, GA www.earthlovershopping.com
229.225.7138
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Carrabelle and Environs
There may be nothing so fine in the summer as deciding after work on a Friday to pack up and head to the coast. This year forgo the crowds and longer drives of the usual spots and venture to The Forgotten Coast, which offers some of the best dining, fishing and hunting, and some of the most pristine beaches in Florida. Carrabelle lies on the eastern end of The Forgotten Coast and is less than two hours from Thomasville. Stay in town at The Old Carrabelle Hotel B & B (they’re currently running a special), or at The Moorings of Carrabelle which lies right on the river and offers spectacular views of sunrise over the marina, plus free boat slips with rooms. Shop for locally made art and jewelry at Shop by the Sea, lunch with the locals at The Fisherman’s Wife, or dine right on the river at Fathom’s Steam Room, where on Sun-
days you can get a dozen raw Apalachicola oysters for four bucks. Five minutes further down Highway 98 lies Carrabelle Beach, where there are no hotels— don’t fret, that’s the best part! There are a slew of Gulf front rental houses of all sizes (search and book on www.homeaway.com), where you can step from your porch and into sand like confectioner’s sugar that runs for miles with no high rise condominiums blocking your view. Get up early to watch a Gulf of Mexico sunrise from Carrabelle Beach, and you’ll swear you’ve never seen one so beautiful—then head over to 2 Al’s for breakfast and order one of their exploded biscuits. Spend the rest of the day in a lounge chair, or if you’re feeling extra adventurous, bring a kayak, and take it across the sound to Dog Island.
Carrabelle and Environs
2 Al’s on the Beach
Home of the Exploded Biscuit! (850) 697-4576 - 1 Gulf Beach Dr. Carrabelle
Beads , fine art, jewelry, collectibles and handcrafted gifts Shop By The SEA 850-510-9266 104 Hwy 98, Carrabelle
Carrabelle and Environs
“I must be a mermaid, Rango. I have no fear of depths and a great fear of shallow living.” Anaïs Nin
Steak - Seafood - Breakfast - Burgers
Fisherman’s Wife 201 W. 8th St. , Carrabelle - (850) 697-4533
Carrabelle and Environs
“We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea, whether it is to sail or to watch we are going back from whence we came.� John F. Kennedy
THE
TripAdvisor 2013 Certificate of Excellence Winner 201 Tallahassee Street Carrabelle - (850) 697-9010
Eastpoint + Environs
If you’ve ever made the trek to Saint George Island or Apalachicola, you’ve likely passed through Eastpoint, a sleepy fishing town of about 2,500. If you’re headed elsewhere but plan to buy and cook your own local seafood, or you want a half-bushel of oysters for the boat or campsite, Lynn’s Quality Oysters in Eastpoint is where to stock your cooler. The smoked fish dip and crab cakes are local favorites, and Lynn’s offers fresh, locally caught grouper, live blue crabs, Apalachicola oysters, and shrimp. You may want to stock your cooler on the way home, too! If you plan to give your fishing or boating license a run for its money, and seek more reasonably priced lodgings than on the island or in Apalach, stay at the Sportsman’s Lodge on East Bay. These “Old Florida” accommodations offer spectacular views of
the sunset and a public boat ramp next door provides easy access to the many nearby rivers - and some of Florida’s best fishing. Haul your boat or kayak north on scenic Highway 65 and put in at Bloody Bluff to explore Owl Creek, a swamp habitat of cypress-lined black water canals; the creek provides scenery that would be almost haunting if not for the little turtles you’ll see every so often, basking on fallen cypress trunks. The stillness of Owl Creek provides a perfect setting for tearing through its deep canals on a tube or wakeboard. The creek ends at the Apalachicola River, so if you’re feeling adventurous, forgo hauling your boat and take the lengthy trip upriver to where Owl Creek begins.
Eastpoint + Environs
Sportsman’s Lodge (850) 670-8423
99 North Bay Shore Drive
Eastpoint
“hark, now hear the sailors cry, smell the sea, and feel the sky let your soul & spirit fly, into the mystic...” Van Morrison
Eastpoint + Environs
Fly Casting Instruction Daniel E. Crocker M: 229-403-6297 Federation of Fly Fishers Life Member
FFF Certified Fly Casting Instructor Since 1999
The fishermen know that the sea is dangerous and the storm terrible, but they have never found these dangers sufficient reason for remaining ashore. Vincent Van Gogh
Eastpoint + Environs
“To reach a port we must set sail – Sail, not tie at anchor Sail, not drift.” Franklin D. Roosevelt
Daniel E. Crocker, GRI, MPA GA/FL Licensed Real Estate Broker
Mobile: (229) 403-6297 www.landcroc.com
Apalachicola
The town of Apalachicola is synonymous with oysters, which are especially briny and divine when they were harvested in town only hours before hitting your plate. The rule, however, is that to be safe you should eat them raw only during months containing the letter “r,” so from May through August, you’re better off heading to Water Street to order them fried or baked dozens of ways at Boss Oyster or Up the Creek, which both offer gorgeous waterfront dining along Scipio Creek. At Avenue D, on either side of Highway 98, lie Tamara’s Cafe Floridita and Veranda’s, both of offering high-end eats, excellent wine selections and outdoor dining. For white table cloth service, where you can feel free to wear jeans, eat at Owl Cafe, but start with a brew from The Tap Room next door. If you’re down for staying out, Tamara’s Tapas offers food and live entertainment into the late-night hours.
Aside from the oysters and dining for every budget, Apalachicola has a variety of lodgings, unique shops, and a thriving local art scene. The historic Consulate Suites offer old-world elegance, and the newer Water Street Inn has reasonable rates and balconies overlooking the creek. If you get to town and realize you need a waterproof jacket or a pair of indestructible flip flops, visit Apalach Outfitters on Avenue E. The best coffee in town is around the corner at Cafe con Leche on Water Street. Grab an espresso and wander next door to Apalachicola Riverkeeper, a nonprofit dedicated to the stewardship of many of the waterways in this Road Trip series. A donation to the Riverkeeper may get you a print by famed local photographer Richard Bickel, or if it’s the right time of year, a sail on the Governor Stone captained by the Riverkeeper himself.
Apalachicola
Apalachicola Riverkeeper “Stewardship & advocacy for the protection of the Apalachicola River and Bay” Join us! www.apalachicolariverkeeper.org
“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.” Jacques Yves Cousteau
Apalachicola
The
1884 Paxton House
Bed & Breakfast Historic Thomasville, Georgia
FOR SALE
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Includes a carriage house, garden cottage and an enclosed pool house. Ben W. McCollum 229-226-2564 c 229-221-6680 www.wrightbroker.com
Unique Boutique
Bridal
Prom Jewelry African Attire 111 N Madison Street In Downtown Thomasville, GA 229-226-4301 www.timeforprom.com
Apalachicola
Family Resources, Inc.
Individual, Couple, & Family Counseling Services
In Historic Downtown Apalachicola apalachoutfitters.com
2286 Wednesday St. Ste 1 Tallahassee, FL 32308 850.222.5511
mfts@famresources.com - www.famresources.com
Apalachicola
“You and I are all as much continuous with the physical universe as a wave is continuous with the ocean.” Alan Watts
Tamara’s Cafe 71 Market Street, Apalachicola (850) 653-4111 www.tamarascafe.com
Apalachicola
red Fly
Beach Weddings
Every session is an adventure with us, so please be prepared for all things unusual and exciting. If you want boring, we are not the photographers for you.
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“Waves are the voices of tides. Tides are life,” murmured Niko. “They bring new food for shore creatures, and take ships out to sea. They are the ocean’s pulse, and our own heartbeat.” Tamora Pierce
Port Saint Joe & Environs
At the westward end of the Forgotten Coast lie Mexico Beach, and a northward-pointing, hook-shaped strand of peninsula, where you’ll find one of the most beautiful state parks in the country and the town of Cape San Blas. Nestled inside the peninsula are St. Joseph Bay and the town of Port St. Joe. All three towns are home to charters for some of the best offshore fishing the Gulf of Mexico has to offer, and St. Joseph Bay berths scallops galore during the summer months; scallop season opened July 1st, and downtown Port Saint Joe will host its 17th annual Scallop & Music Festival from July 27th through August 4th. The place to eat in the area, if you can find it, is Indian Pass Raw Bar at the intersection of County Road C-30 and Indian Pass Road. Blink and you’ll miss it. Though Johnny Cash and Lauren Hutton have dined there, it’s a dive if there ever was one, with no
illusions of grandeur. The food is fresh, bountiful, and succulent, and the atmosphere is true “Old Florida.” The menu contains a handful of items prepared a handful of ways (except fried), and beers are on the honor system from a cooler in the back. If you have yourself a guitar case, no one will stop you from strumming away out front if you feel like it. Douse your dozen raw in Ed’s Red, the locally-made pepper sauce, and you’ll agree it’s an “oyster’s best friend.” Continue south, and swing through Cape San Blas on your way to St. Joseph Peninsula State Park, which has consistently been rated near the top of both national best state parks, and Florida’s best beaches rankings. If camping isn’t your forte, stay at Cape San Blas Inn on the peninsula, a B & B which offers complimentary canoes to guests, with access to both the Gulf and St. Joseph Bay.
Port Saint Joe & Environs
Angela Durant Tur ner EdS, NCC, BCC
Counseling, Coaching, Consulting 1282 Timberlane Road, Suite D Tallahassee, FL - 850.545.8463 www.AngelaDTurner.com
Pam L. Davis
Chubb Associates, Ltd.
229-226-7916 (W) 229-672-0241 (M)
pam_davis7@hotmail.com 304 Gordon Avenue Thomasville, GA 31792 www.chubbrealty.com
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Love, the Townie
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