EnginE POwER

Un-118 calibrE: indEpEndEncE day

Dan Diaconu

How can you stand up to a situation that’s virtually monopolistic? How should you go about striving for independence? The quest for answers to these two questions led Ulysse Nardin to initiate a special strategy as the 21st century dawned that focused on a metalloid boasting a host of attractive properties. Silicon, insensitive to the negative consequences of magnetic fields and stainless, can moreover be sculpted to the nearest micron in the size desired. And, given its intrinsic lightness, it has the advantage of making a calibre more immune to the Grossmann effect, which heightens isochronism defects observed when a watch’s position is changed. So, the watchmaker drew on the expertise of one of its subsidiaries, Sigatec, and its mastery of DRIE (Deep Reactive Ion Etching) already used for manufacturing processors. In 1999, the Freak became the first watch to host a silicon escapement. In 2007, the Freak DIAMonSIL® model

would centre stage years of research and development. This timepiece didn’t just stand out through its breakthrough design and architecture but also through its patented escapement imagined using a diamond and silicon alloy. But, this piece would place the accent on THE Un-118 comprisEs exclusivity. For Ulysse Nardin, it was a diamonsil® EscapEmEn wHEEl and ancHor T highly-instrumental to be able to create a calibre that could take on industrial volumes. Four years later, and a silicon the goal was reached when the UNbalancE spring. 118 was unveiled. This self-winding movement was the first the firm had totally developed and assembled on its premises. As such, the brand became part of the very small circle of

manufactures that could produce all the mechanical parts required.

The UN-118, designed using 260 components, comprises a DIAMonSIL® escapement wheel and anchor and a silicon balance spring. It showcases upto-the-minute features and is adorned with traditional finishes like Côtes de Genève that decorate the bridges and the baseplate. This calibre, delivering a power reserve of 60 hours, is also set apart thanks to its accuracy, as it meets the criteria requisite for being granted COSC certification from the stringent Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute.

In 2012, the Marine Chronometer Manufacture beat to the rhythm of the UN-118, at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations an hour. This device would, of course, drive the hour and minute hands. It would also breathe life into the power indicator display set at 12 o’clock and a small seconds and date positioned at 6 o’clock on the immaculatelyenamelled dial. This layout would be perpetuated down through the years in Ulysse Nardin’s production, in particular in the elegant Marine Torpilleur 42 mm pieces presented in 2021. Amongst other models, the movement can be found nestling inside the titanium and rose gold case of the Marine Diver 44 mm watch, waterproof to depths of 300 m. By choosing this calibre, the firm continues to place the accent on exclusivity. The 300-piece Diver X 44 mm Antarctica limited edition is a convincing demonstration of Ulysse Nardin’s ability to pursue its odyssey.

THE Un-118 brEaTHEs lifE inTo THE vErTically-alignEd powEr rEsErvE display, small sEconds and THE daTE.