THE WATCHES MAGAZINE #43 Winter edition by THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

ENGLISH EDITION

INTERNATIONAL SWISS-MADE MAGAZINE

#043 WINTER 2015

Arnold & Son Audemars Piguet Bell & Ross Bvlgari Cartier Corum Cuervo & Sobrinos DeWitt Eberhard F. P. Journe Ferdinand Berthoud Fiona Krüger Girard-Perregaux Glashütte Original Graff Harry Winston Hautlence Hermès Jaeger-LeCoultre Laurent Ferrier MB&F Montblanc Panerai Pierre DeRoche Poiray Richard Mille TAG Heuer Triton Tudor Urwerk Vacheron Constantin Van Cleef & Arpels Voutilainen

Patek PhiliPPe

GUEST Séverine DesLions

Enchantment is an art

INTERVIEW - PORTRAIT Angelo Bonati - Romain Gauthier - Sandrine Stern suisse: 10 francs FRANCE MéTRO: 7 EuROs - BEL/LuX/POLAND: 8 EuROs - uK: £8 - A/D/GR//PORT.CONT: 8,40 EuROs - CAN: 11,95 $CAN - usA: 14,99 $us

Breguet, the innovator.

Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 The Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 perpetuates the creative heritage of Breguet by interpreting it in a contemporary and innovative way. It is comprised of two entirely independent gear trains. The first, set to a frequency of 5 Hz to enhance precision measurement, is devoted to the chronograph, while the second, operating at 3 Hz, is dedicated to the hours and minutes. History is still being written...

ABU DHABI

BAL HARBOUR

BEIJING

CANNES

CHENGDU

DUBAI

E K AT E R I N B U R G

GENEVA

G S TA A D

HONG KONG

KUALA LUMPUR

LAS VEGAS

LONDON

LOS ANGELES

MACAO

MILAN

MOSCOW

NEW YORK

NINGBO

PARIS

SEOUL

SHANGHAI

S I N G A P O R E TA I P E I T O K Y O V I E N N A

ZURICH

– W W W . B R E G U E T. C O M

- The City, London Piaget Altiplano 900P The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thinnest Manufacture mechanical watch: 3.65 mm, a total fusion between Manufacture-made case and movement. Piaget, the Master of ultra-thin.

piaget.com

T H E U R - 1 0 5 TA HOUR SATELLITE INDICATION WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING REGULATED BY TURBINES

UR-105TA

Cover watCh  Sharmila Bertin

PATEK PHILIPPE CHronogrAPHE à rATTrAPAnTE référEnCE 5370P

008

n the white gold dial’s hand-enamelled black coating, the various features (minute track, tachymeter scale, small seconds display at 9 and 30-minute counter at 3) are printed white so you can tell the time in an instant. Applied white gold Breguet Arabic numerals mark the hours. Two luminescent white gold leafshape hands track the hours and minutes. The central seconds hand is set in motion by the pusher at 2 o’ clock on the case side. Press the pusher beneath the crown at 3 o’ clock and the hand splits in two leaving the split-seconds frozen on the dial. These functions are all brought to life by the manual

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

wind CHR 29-535 PS calibre housed inside the 41mm platinum case. The movement provides a power reserve lasting 55-65 hours and can be admired through the watch’s sapphire crystal back.

Slim d’Hermès watch in rose gold, Manufacture H1950 ultra-thin movement.

SLIM D’HERMÈS, PURITY IN MOTION.

Hermes.com

LEGENDS LIVE FOREVER EL PRIMERO

www.zenith-watches.com

I Chronomaster 1969

BOUTIQUE GENÈVE 3 5 , R U E D U R H Ô N E • + 41 ( 0 ) 2 2 3 11 1 8 6 5 B O U T I Q U E . G E N E V E @ Z E N I T H - WAT C H E S . C O M

Editorial

Goodbye 2015, hello 2016!

Sharmila Bertin Editor-in-Chief

011

o let’s see, the Christmas holidays = an annual review of our personal/professional/psychological/ financial/whatever state = fiesta! = Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer = relaxing family time = skiing in Verbier = beaches in Koh Samui = lots more! In any case, I love the thrill of the Christmas holidays but perhaps not for the same reason as most. Obviously I don’t mean the desperate and despairing panic that descends when shopping for the perfect gift or the marketing onslaught from mid-October to buy the perfect gift (bleeding our bank balance dry is compulsory.). Nor am I talking about the children’s joy at writing to Father Christmas and dressing the (poor) Christmas tree with bright baubles, tinsel made in China and other glittering bits and bobs, their eyes shining with gleeful excitement and their little fingers ready to rip the wrapping paper to shreds. That’s all very nice but it’s not what I love about the time of year (even though I love children and presents). Instead, what gets me going is the start of the watchmaking season. OK, there have been some fairs elsewhere in the world since September (Hong Kong, Mexico, Dubai, London, Paris) but my favourites are starting soon. The first is the SIHH (Salon international de la haute horlogerie) held in Geneva from January 18th to 22nd 2016. I’m particularly fond of this one because it takes place in my hometown and I think it’s fun to see Calvin’s city transform to welcome retailers, clients and journalists from all over the world. I also like how intimate it feels. It’s slightly intimidating when you first walk into the

SIHH, especially the first time. You step into an ivory cocoon (or beige labyrinth, it all depends on how many you’ve been to...) in which all the brands nestle comfortably. You explore new pieces, each one more fabulous than the last. The SIHH basically has a pinch of fairy dust and I love fairy-tales. The second, Baselworld, is completely different but equally exciting. From March 17 th to 24th 2016, the Messeplatz (conference centre square) in Basel becomes a giant watchmaking ant’s nest. Bigger, more commercial and open to the general public, it’s a fairly startling fair when it’s your first time. It’s easy to get lost your first time round too. 2016 will be my 10th Baselworld and I’ve been lucky to experience both sides of it: five times in marketing and PR for an advertiser and five times as a journalist. Even though I know where all the stands are and every nook and cranny…I still get lost from time to time... ...actually, just thinking about it makes me look forward even more to 2016!

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Guest The Watches Magazine invites a new guest writer to share their vision of time in each issue.

Speed Boy: An Attitude to time

Séverine DesLions Visual artist www.deslions.fr

012

What of all things in the world is the longest, the shortest, the swiftest, the slowest, the most divisible and most extended, most regretted, most neglected, without which nothing can be done, and with which many do nothing, which destroys all that is little and ennobles all that is great?" Voltaire’s title character Zadig has already asked this question! So, what should our attitude to time be? Time, intrinsically bound to change and evolution. Without Time, nothing changes, nothing moves, nothing evolves, nothing is born and nothing dies. Without Time, the world would be but an Eternal Uniformity. I wonder. I’m from the cartoon and comic strip generation. I spent my childhood surrounded by Hergé, Spiderman and a whole legion of superheroes. It’s one of the influences in my work that has meant that a character called Speed Boy, a superhero with a crown on his head, now appears in every single piece. Speed Boy has a message and asks us to take a step back from time’s relentless race, relax and enjoy what’s important in life. We always want bigger and better so the present often passes us by. Speed Boy could have been that Prussian prince who had ruins built in front of his castle as a daily reminder to take nothing for granted, to enjoy every minute and never lose sight of our happiness! He is a character in motion, like the hands of a watch marching forth, like our conscience warning us of the ever-present possibility of that unexpected grain of sand which could throw everything off course...But he’s primarily the hope of freezing time when life smiles upon us. We must live in the present! That’s easy to say...

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

I’m always in touch with my emotions when I paint. The joy of bursts of colour splashed on the canvas. I have a dream to bring distant people together, beyond walls, beyond borders, beyond oceans…I dare to dream of a future where the people of this world will be proud to recognise that their differences complement rather than clash with each other. In the meantime, every morning my superhero Speed Boy will whisper through my paintbrush that each moment should capture the dream of a day when mankind will finally have the right attitude to getting the most out of our time!

"French Lover" © Séverine DesLions

INSIDE THEWATCHESMAGAZINE

#043

038 Patek Philippe

014

011 012 020 022 024 028

Editorial Guest Séverine DesLions We love for her We love for him The Eye of Jewelry Vox Femina

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

032 Extra-special 038 Patek Philippe Cover Story 048 Panerai Interview Angelo Bonati 052 Portrait Romain Gauthier 054 Glashütte Original

056 058 060 064 066 068

Montblanc Van Cleef & Arpels Harry Winston Ferdinand Berthoud Arnold & Son Triton

INSIDE THEWATCHESMAGAZINE

#043 016

070 Fiona Krüger/Poiray 071 Hermès/Laurent Ferrier 072 Audemars Piguet/ Pierre DeRoche 073 Cuervo & Sobrinos/ Jaeger-LeCoultre 074 Cartier/Richard Mille

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

075 076 077 078 079 080

Corum/Bell & Ross Bvlgari/Urwerk TAG Heuer/Hautlence Eberhard/Tudor Girard-Perregaux/DeWitt Only Watch

CALIBRE RM 07-01

BOUTIQUE RICHARD MILLE GRAND HOTEL KEMPINSKI GENEVE EMBASSY Lucerne

KIRCHHOFER HAUTE HORLOGERIE Interlaken

www.richardmille.com

MONTRES PRESTIGE S.A. Genève

ENGLISH EDITION

impressum INTERNATIONAL SWISS-MADE MAGAZINE

#043 WINTER 2015

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF WATCHES www.watches-news.com

Patek PhiliPPe

GUEST Séverine DesLions

Enchantment is an art

Rédaction/Edition ACE Publishing SA Direction/Management Alain Carrier acarrier@ace-publishing.com Rédactrice en chef/Editor-in-Chief Sharmila Bertin sbertin@ace-publishing.com Designer graphique/Graphic designer Christelle Lillo clillo@ace-publishing.com Contributeurs/Contributors Cécile Bernardini - Tiffany Cartier-Millon Séverine DesLions - Dan Diaconu - Fabrice Eschmann - Mickael Gautier Olivier Müller - Eléonor Picciotto Publicité/Advertising ACE Publishing SA Alain Carrier acarrier@ace-publishing.com Yannick Ortolan yortolan@ace-publishing.com T +41 22 752 60 12 Traduction/Translation Atenao www.atenao.com Impression/Printing FOT Suisse Distribution Marchés principaux/Major markets Suisse, France, Allemagne, Royaume-Uni, États-Unis Autres pays/Other countries Abu Dhabi, Andorre, Australie, Autriche, Belgique, Brésil, Canada, Dubaï, Grèce, Hong Kong, Koweït, Maroc, Pologne, Portugal, Russie, Singapour, Taïwan, Thaïlande, Turquie, Ukraine

018

Kiosques/Kiosks Suisse: Naville SA & Valora AG - France: MLP - Export: Export Press Abonnement/Subscription Dynapress Marketing SA Avenue Vibert 38 - CH-1227 Carouge/Genève T +41 22 308 08 08 - abonnements@dynapresse.ch Édité 4 fois par an/Published 4 times a year Mars-March/Juin-June/Septembre-September/Décembre-December En 4 langues/In 4 languages Français-French/Anglais-English/Allemand-German Chinois simplifié-Chinese ISSN: Français1661-3244/Anglais1661-3570/Allemand1661-3554

The Watches Magazine Join our 900,000 fans on Facebook

ACE Publishing SA Principal actionnaire/Major shareholder Alain Carrier Route de Thonon 152A - CH-1222 Vésenaz/Genève T +41 22 752 60 12 - F +41 22 752 60 14 N° TVA CHE-112.276.791 TVA - REF 618 137 La reproduction des articles parus dans THE WATCHES MAGAZINE est interdite sous toutes ses formes, sauf autorisation écrite de l’éditeur. Any form of reproduction of articles published in THE WATCHES MAGAZINE is prohibited without the prior written consent of the publisher.

TWM-THE WATCHES MAGAZINE® Registered by ACE Publishing SA

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

VELOCITY AND FLEXIBILITY

by the motorist of time

200

HANDS SPEED (200 HAND JUMPS PER SECOND IN EITHER DIRECTION OF ROTATION)

CHRONOGRAPH CALIBRE 13¼´´´ - ETA G10.212 Ø 29.80 MM - H 5.12 MM DISPLAY FLEXIBILTY - MULTIPLE COMBINATIONS

SALES QUARTZLINE SCHMELZISTRASSE 16, CH-2540 GRENCHEN WWW.ETA.CH, SALES-QUARTZ@ETA.CH TEL: +41 (0)32 655 77 77

EXCLUSIVE TECHNOLOGY

we love for her  Sharmila Bertin

VACHERON CONSTANTIN HEuRE DISCRèTE

020

his year the Genevan brand is celebrating its 260th anniversary and has delved into its wealth of archives to create a new collection. This spectacular glittering fan is part of the incredibly sophisticated and feminine Heures Créatives collection. Its softly edgy geometric shapes and pure Art Deco style are inspired by a pendant watch designed by the brand in 1919. Its white gold silhouette glitters with round diamonds and three diamond rows unfurl over the watch to delicately wrap around the wrist. Its shy

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

body, concealed by a fan, hides a secret. Glide your fingertips over the diamond-covered folds and Heure Discrète reveals a white mother-ofpearl dial whose décor echoes the fan. Two silver "poire" hands skim over the shimmering triangle to display the hours and minutes brought to life by the manual wind 1055 calibre inside the white gold case.

LIVE YOUR

PASSION

Vintage Rally tribute to Healey and classic car rallies worldwide. the roar of a finely-tuned engine. automatic Chronograph, instantly readable in ergonomic case. More information on + 41 (0)26 460 72 50 - info@macher-sa.ch www.frederique-constant.com

we love for him  Sharmila Bertin

MB&F

Legacy Machine PerPetuaL

022

fter three years of hard graft, MB&F has brought the world a new Legacy Machine to the delight of the collection’s devotees. The latest in the LM family is called Perpetual and is the result of a collaboration between Maximilian Büsser and Stephen McDonnell, an Irish independent watchmaker who has designed a fully integrated manual calibre with a perpetual calendar complication. Hang on though! This is no ordinary 31-day PC; it’s a unique

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

mechanical processor based on 28 days to cover the full calendar. A miniature world lives beneath the sapphire dome covering the rose gold or platinum 44mm case. The hours and minutes are off-centre at 12 o’ clock on the white bevelled disc. Loyal to the collection’s signature features, the suspended balance wheel delicately spins above three seemingly floating rings: the day at 3, month at 6 and date at 9 o’ clock.

More information: + 41 (0)26 460 84 40 info@gouten-distribution.ch

The eye of Jewelry  Eléonor Picciotto

Graff

024

Audemars Piguet

DiamonD snow

he expression "as white as snow" is one…but that’s not all! A symbol of purity, easy to wear but especially, in the snow with white, it’s easier to go unnoticed. As the winter chill and first flakes appear, let’s look at the timepieces that will keep us hidden in complete simplicity…or almost. Floral design and diamond complication. Flowers are among the most popular themes in jewellery. When in the hands of watchmakers, they literally become a "mechanical revival". We’re dazzled by the gleam on the gems covering the Floral Tourbillon, Graff’s first ever complication for ladies. The tourbillon is carved into a flower and glitters with two carats of diamonds on the round facetted case. Three flowers on a mother-of-pearl dial made up of 24 marquise-cut diamonds shimmer at 8, 10 and 12 o’ clock and spin to the rhythm of the manual wind calibre. The movement not only brings to life a 72-hour power reserve but also the blue hour and minute hands shaped

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

like two fleshy petals and the flower-shape tourbillon. Father Christmas mustn’t delay! The Millenary Tourbillon Fleur by Audemars Piguet showcases its signature white gold oval case whose rows of diamonds dazzle like shimmering ski slopes. A snow-capped gleaming flower blossoms slightly off-centre on the dial. The rose gold hour and minute hands burst from the heart of the bloom whilst the 2940 calibre’s tourbillon spins at 9 o’ clock. The crown is topped by a rose-cut diamond. Openwork, ethereal and curvaceous, this incredibly feminine piece is 5.32 carats.

>>>

CMJ

Rebellion is a young, audacious and independent Swiss high-end watch brand with authenticity, refined design, and uncompromising quality and performance. Rebellionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s timepieces are crafted in extremely limited quantities, with precision-engineered cases and exclusive movements. All of Rebellionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s research, development and production takes place in Switzerland, where the very highest standards are both demanded and obtained. Based in Lonay, Rebellion was launched in 2008 on the shores of Lake Geneva. Many characteristics of the watch are directly inspired by our R-ONE car that participated in the FIA World Endurance Championship with our team Rebellion Racing.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

026 White rubber and simpler complication. Richard Mille tends to be linked to a very masculine world but has surprised its fans by turning his attention to ladies. Ever faithful to its signature barrel-shape case, the brand with Brittany roots has unveiled the RM07-01, a streamlined, reworked and ultra-feminine evolution. Its spiral crown stops any foreign object from getting into the piece’s skeleton movement. Its white ceramic case topped by anti-glare sapphire crystal housing floating teardrop markers and a mini diamond-covered barrel on the translucent dial is water-resistant to depths of 50m. With its white rubber strap around your wrist, you can soak up the pool or spa with peace of mind! The equally sporty Patek Philippe Aquanaut has a different look but is quite simply a must-have. Its cushion-shape 35.2mm rose gold case with smooth corners houses a selfwinding movement. The hours and minutes tick by on the white checkerboard dial which features the date at 3 o’ clock and a central seconds hand in the middle as every second counts. The watch is on a "tropical" strap on composite material (super-soft rubber) which has been seen in all its forms since it first appeared in 1997.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Patek Philippe

Richard Mille

47MM JUMPING HOURS

Boutique 5-7 Rue du Rh么ne - Gen猫ve

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Vox Femina  Cécile Bernardini

028

It’s all happenIng on place Vendôme!

hilst the famous column is having a (never-ending) makeover, the watch brands are making the most of it to get a new look. Or should that be make a clean sweep? Paix pays In the last few months, Mauboussin’s exit from Place Vendôme made a lot of noise. Was it peer pressure or financial brand strategy? Hard to say. It had been there since the 1950s. Mauboussin has now set up shop a few hundred metres down the road on Rue de la Paix. The name says it all. This move has meant the fine jewellery brand has divided its annual rent by ten. However, by leaving, it has abandoned its home and the last symbol that linked it to fine jewellery. As for Place Vendôme, it’s probably lost more than it thinks or would admit to. By losing an "affordable" brand, it’s become even more remote. The result is that mere mortals can

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

no longer have the joy or dream of shopping on the square which is now exclusive to the wealthy and well-to-do. Of course, with a 170m² shop at over 12,000 Euros/m², Mauboussin can progress with its savings alone and will reinvest 6.6 million Euros into its watch department to create no fewer than 40 new models. As for the brand, it’s a shame for Vendôme as it could have had a gateway to its sumptuous world. We expect Vendôme to shine, not to blind.

Hôtel particulier Chaumet

030 Chaumet rings the changes However, some brands have grasped the importance of keeping an approachable entrance to their world. They’re not afraid of lots of projects to do so. For example, Breguet has just opened its new store and given pride of place to ladies. Its ground floor has been fully redesigned to showcase its watch and jewellery collection. It’s a good idea since 30% of Breguet’s sales come from ladies. A similar thing has happened at Chaumet. The brand is now presenting both a piece of jewellery and a timepiece, all in a completely unique museum setting. With its 50,000 archives, Chaumet will change its exhibition every six months. It’s a bold project as it’s the only brand on the square to own its building and use it to make it a place to visit…and attract more people. The last project to bring the masses to Place Vendôme comes from Poiray. Some treat themselves to a Rolex for their 40 th but this brand treated itself to one night at Hôtel d’Evreux. The 40 year old is slowly but surely carving its way on the Place with values that are rare to find: charity, generosity paired with beautiful and affordable collections. Let’s hope that the gamble will pay off!

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Museum Chaumet

Darwel

EmbracE timE Our story, our brand, our passion. carole & Pierre Dubois

carole and Pierre Dubois. a love story that gives a unique beat to their lives and their watch creations. Pictured here, two his and hers world-exclusive royal retro models with their six dancing retrograde seconds hands. PiErrE DErOchE - LE rEvErs 1 - 1345 LE LiEu - switzErLanD - t. +41 21 841 11 69 - www.PiErrEDErOchE.cOm

Extra-spEcial  Sharmila Bertin

032

When clocks turn the tables

hen you think of watchmaking, you automatically think of watches, the timepieces you lovingly wrap around your wrist in the morning after getting dressed and regularly look at, especially when you’re having a long and busy day. However, it’s a broad sector. It includes a number of devices outside the wristwatch such as pendulum and mantel clocks, wall and table clocks, marine chronometers and more. As described by the professional illustrated watchmaking dictionary that we fondly refer to as “the Berner” in the industry, watchmaking is “the science, art, industry and trade of devices used to measure time.” With this in mind, why not devote a bit of space in the pages of this issue to showcase timekeeping devices that aren’t wristwatches? Especially since certain designers have bags of imagination and not to delve deeper would be a real shame. Here’s the proof:

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Melchior, the robot character by MB&F Look out, the super-creative brand from Maximilian Büsser has done it again! Is it a kinetic-futuristic super Avenger figurine? Is it a toy for big kids? Or is it a wise man for the third millennium? Seeing Melchior is delving back into your childhood. Luckily for me, as the eldest sister in a big group of boys, the world of Majorette cars and robots is sort of my thing. MB&F and clock brand L'Epée joined forces to celebrate the Genevan brand’s 10th anniversary and Melchior came out of their partnership. It weighs 6.3kg, is just over 30cm high and stands on two chunky Grendizer-style metallic legs. This is one big baby! A manual wind heart beats within its steel armour designed by L'Epée whose five cylinders not only provide a 40-hour power reserve but also display jumping hours, trailing minutes, retrograde seconds and battery life. That’s basically it for the technical side.

How about looks? It’s so hard to resist the charming Melchior! Its glass dome head protects the brain-come-regulator. Its eyes are two rotors displaying the seconds in 20-second segments. Its chest plate has two discs displaying the hours (left) and minutes (right). The power reserve indicator is wrapped around its waist. Melchior’s arms are different: its left arm has a rocket-style projectile (ready for any intergalactic war!) and the right arm has a Gatling machine gun. Of course, the weapons are fake and the rotating gun is in fact a removable key so you can wind Melchior’s heart and reset the time.

033

>>>

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

034 PAM00651

PAM00641

Panerai’s glass bauble When you think of a table clock, the first thing that pops into your head (well, mine anyway!) is a rectangular device oozing 70s style on a desk or bedside table. Well, here’s a surprise! Perfectly spherical, as light as air, easy to read and, we have to say, incredibly elegant, the Table Clock by Panerai looks like a piece of contemporary art. The hours and minutes on this clock are brought to life by a manual wind P.5000 calibre made entirely in Switzerland by Panerai. There’s no need to fiddle with the oversize crown on a daily basis as the powerful movement provides an 8-day power reserve. The mineral glass sphere is 65mm in diameter and you can see the movement through the back. The transparent steel-rimmed setting

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

conceals a black dial available in two versions. The first model (PAM00641) is the most classic and understated of the two, you could call it the most Panerai! It has a so-called "sandwich" dial whose multi-layered design is inspired by the 1930s. The hour rim features dots and baton indices at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’ clock. The second model (PAM00651) has a slightly busier display (and we mean slightly!). The black California dial is surrounded by a minute track and perked up by an orange hour rim alternating between Roman numerals (1, 2, 9, 10 o’ clock), Arabic numerals (4, 5, 7 and 8 o’ clock), baton indices (3, 6 and 9 o’ clock) and a triangular marker (12 o’ clock). The nickname California goes back to the 80s when this type of dial blending different "types" of digits was very popular in the Golden State.

There’s no embellishment, no aesthetic excess: just time in all its simplicity…and glory!

>>>

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

036

Imperiali and the magic box Picture yourself one evening after a hard day’s work having a relaxing drink with a colleague. “What would you do if you won the Euromillions?” The conversation takes off, plans come together, dreams are described then suddenly, bam! Out comes the idea that will change everything because it’s unique and doable! That’s sort of what happened to our two heroes, David Pasciuto and Stéphane Nazzal, founders of Genevan brand Imperiali. What was their crazy idea? To create the most complete, the most mechanically and technologically accomplished, the most luxurious and exclusive cigar chest ever in the world: Emperador. Because this beast (70cm long, 45cm wide, 30cm high) costs the trifling sum of one million Swiss Francs and only 12

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

are made every year. The two entrepreneurs called upon 27 different trades to make it. This toy for billionaires is unlocked using a secret code which, once entered, provides access to 24 cigars wrapped in gold leaf, stored in glass tubes and laid out in a double thickness star. A small table clock lies in the centre of this golden sun. The fitted timekeeping device can be seen through a window even when the huge chest/safe is closed and features a flying tourbillon at the bottom of its Clous de Paris engraved black dial. It automatically recharges each time it is opened. Unfortunately, that’s all we’ll ever know about the clock’s technical design and its designer. A hatch opens the depths of the chest and produces three accessories: a guillotine or punch cigar cutter, a table lighter

with three nozzles and an intuitive ashtray which opens when you and your cigar draw near.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Cover story Patek PhiliPPe  Sharmila Bertin

Philippe Stern & Thierry Stern 038

Preserve the Past and build the future

ince its foundation on May 1st 1839, Patek Philippe has been known for its workmanship, legacy and exclusivity. The Genevan brand was taken over by the Stern family in 1932 and is now one of few independent companies to design, develop and produce its own timepieces which gives it creative freedom and a focus on technical innovation. It has also been expanding at a significant rate for almost 20 years. In 2014, the brand based in Plan-les-Ouates in the Geneva canton celebrated its 175th anniversary and unveiled a host of captivating timekeeping devices to the whole world. This year, Patek Philippe is strengthening its foothold in Geneva with a new 50,000m2 building (usable area out of a total of 110,000m²) spread over six floors plus four basement levels near its current factory. The site will also pool together all the brand’s departments and will have spare room for the next 20 or 30 years. The plan was

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

announced in January 2015 and construction is due to be completed in 2018 after the first stone was laid on October 15th this year. Philippe Stern and his son Thierry Stern, Chairman and CEO of Patek Philippe respectively, alongside architect François de Marignac, Mayor of Planles-Ouates Xavier Magnin and state councillor for the Canton of Geneva Antonio Hodgers put on their hard hats, hi-vis jackets and spades to lay the cement for the future site’s foundations. The building has a budget of 500 million Swiss Francs (450 for the construction and 50 for the technical fittings) and aims to expand new departments and strengthen knowledge transfer so dear to Patek Philippe. These goals are based on four areas: innovation with new testing laboratories, service (including manufacture, storage and restoration), apprenticeship to train new watchmakers and sales reps and, last but not least, Rare Handcrafts, a new department made up of forty people with a training centre

which will be home to age-old artisan and artistic expertise which, unfortunately, is gradually disappearing nowadays.

039

>>>

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Cover story Patek PhiliPPe

 Sharmila Bertin

040

sandrine stern: "i didn’t fall into watchmaking; i was born into it" Almost twenty years after joining the Genevan company, Sandrine Stern is now Design Director at Patek Philippe and married to its President, Thierry Stern. The first lady of watchmaking answered some questions by The Watches Magazine about how she started, her passion for design and for Rare Handcrafts. What a journey!

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

ell us about how you started at Patek Philippe. How did you come to the watch world? From an early age I wanted to work in gemmology so I looked for temporary work to fund my studies. Through a massive coincidence which worked out for the best, I found a job at Patek Philippe which led to a permanent contract in the marketing department in early 1996. I stayed in the same division for a while before taking a budget control role in the sales department. The accounts side helped me learn how the sales network and analysis works. I worked in this position until 1998. In 1998, Thierry Stern suggested I join the Design department with him. The department needed to be reorganised and the focus was on continuing to work in new collections. I was Design assistant and our department had a team of three at the time. I was then made Head of Design for ladies’ watches then Head of Design for special editions before becoming Design Director and responsible for men’s, ladies’ and special collections including enamelling, engraving and any form of Rare Handcrafts. Why choose design and Rare Handcrafts specifically? Have you had special training? My passion for this sector goes back to my childhood and my father’s profession as a jeweller. What I loved was to watch him work and see jewellery being designed, see a simple idea become a reality and a basic piece of gold be moulded and sculpted. Creating a dream from a design. I didn’t "fall" into watchmaking; I was born into it. Before he was a jeweller, my father graduated in precision engineering and managed a team of gem-setters and jewellers in a small company which made fine watch cases and other pieces for major Swiss brands. I loved going to the factory with him when he could take me. He then set up as a jeweller. Again, I was there and even worked with him. That’s what made me want to continue down this road. What is your role today? What is a typical day, week or month? How many people do you manage?

My role, if we can call it a role, is to provide opportunities to the artisans who work at Patek Philippe as well as independent artisans so they can keep their talent alive and put their art into Patek Philippe’s watches in the most wonderful way. Every day is different which suits me perfectly as routine isn’t for me. We talk, devise, work out and create a new piece on paper every day. It’s an incredible job in complete contrast with my other role in the main collection’s watches. Although both are linked by the quality, detail and beauty of each product, the main collection’s watches are for people who appreciate beautiful watchmaking and its techniques whilst the others are for those who love art and age-old techniques. I now manage fifteen people. It’s a small but effective team, which is the most important thing.

such as engraving, inlaying, enamelling, blended techniques bringing together different crafts, a subject or colour. This client also trusts the quality of our piece which he hopes to own for himself, driven by his passion and with future generations in mind. The interested client appreciates beautiful, unique or rare items. This client also likes the magic conjured up by Rare Handcrafts on our watches to make them into works of art. Since our creations tend to be limited edition to ensure the best quality, it’s always hard to part with the watches as we’ve spent months working on them! That’s why each and every client is carefully selected by the Stern family as a guardian of its exceptional expertise!

041

How will the new Plan-les-Ouates site affect jobs in design and especially Rare Handcrafts? In terms of our current output, our jobs won’t intrinsically change and apart from potentially a different location, it won’t affect our day-today work. In terms of safeguarding jobs in Rare Handcrafts, it is Patek Philippe’s duty to provide an opportunity for artisans with a creative drive in Rare Handcrafts. We shall provide training to ensure that rare crafts such as engraving, cloisonné enamelling, miniature enamelling, guilloché enamelling and inlaying don’t disappear through a lack of training options. Last but not least, the new site is a fantastic way to showcase the quality of our manual expertise to our clients, retailers and the press and host tours to introduce true Rare Handcrafts compared to the industrial output that we’re seeing all too often in the market in recent years. Just one trip to the Patek Philippe Museum is all you need as proof that these trades are being kept alive. We are proud to play a key role in promoting traditions which add the finishing touch to the piece. What type of client is interested in/wants to own a Rare Handcrafts piece? Owning a Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts piece primarily means falling in love with a technique

>>>

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Cover story Patek PhiliPPe  Sharmila Bertin

Calatrava with miniature enamel dial 5077P-091

042

Twenty~4® Haute Joaillerie 4909/114G

enchantment is an art

ascination, astonishment, love at first sight, admiration: Rare Handcrafts always have an effect. They’re more than a feeling. They grab the eye and move the soul. Each shape, be it curvy or natural, each colour, be it pastel or bright, each painstakingly produced scene, is a ticket on a magical adventure.

The story of an unbreakable bond Most of these artistic skills, some of which are gradually disappearing, first appeared centuries ago. As underlined in a wonderful short film available to view on the Patek Philippe website, company CEO Philippe Stern says, "Geneva has been a hub for crafts since the 16 th and certainly the 17 th century when the Huguenots*, who were French artisans, had to leave France because of a religious

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

war and settled in Geneva. Of course, they brought their expertise with them. Geneva was under the control of Calvin**, meaning subtlety was key. Luxury products were banned and, instead of continuing to make jewellery, these artisans began to make watches which weren’t banned at the time." Since its foundation in 1839, Patek Philippe has always worked with artisans to decorate its timepieces (enamelling, engraving, engine-turning and enamel paintings) as you can see from the company’s first ledger which fully details each stage and procedure involved in making each watch. The book is stored in the archives at the Patek Philippe Museum, opened in 1989 near Plainpalais in central Geneva. Inheriting tradition Rare Handcrafts began to suffer in the

aftermath of World War II when there was a decline in the production of artistic pieces before collapsing in the 70s. Despite the watch industry’s sudden disregard for handdecorated watches, Patek Philippe continued to draw on artisans’ talents. Some of the watches which were deemed unsellable at the time and were long stored in the company’s archives now appear in the Museum’s catalogue. Nowadays, in an overly robotic world, the Genevan brand is not only continuing to work with artisans to produce forty unique pieces and new models for current collections every year, but also to safeguard their trade and knowledge for the future. The need to protect what is precious to better pass it onto future generations is described thus by Patek Philippe’s president, Thierry Stern: "Having [artisans] internally also

043

Pocket watch with cloisonné and paillonné enamel, engraving and precious stones 982/182J

>>>

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Cover story Patek PhiliPPe

044 Calatrava with dials in cloisonné enamel 5089G-046

means we can share. Not only can we learn from them but, with our story and history, we can also train them and give them tips that predecessors gave us." This idea of legacy is deeply rooted in the Genevan brand’s philosophy.

An artwork arises Design Director Sandrine Stern explains how the design process unfolds for special pieces: "The work researching and developing these artworks is conducted with Philippe and Thierry Stern. For each project, we try to bring in a minor difficulty so we can keep progressing in collaboration with the artisan." Some timekeeping devices with a larger surface than wristwatches, such as the famous Dôme table clocks and pocket watches, are fantastic for unleashing the imagination and artistic

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Calatrava with marquetry dials 5077P-065

inspiration. The former’s curvy body is adorned with enamelled frescoes or made in cloisonné enamel bursting with wildlife, flowers, plants or more contemporary patterns. The latter, highly popular with collectors, combine different techniques such as enamelling, engraving, engine-turning, gem or pearl-setting. The gleam of enamel Artisans at Patek Philippe use different enamelling techniques: traditional, cloisonné, bevelled, plique-à-jour and paillonné. Molten enamel, a sort of paste made up of minerals and pigment to give it colour, is applied to the dial’s surface. It is fired repeatedly in an 800°C kiln to varnish the surface and seal the pigments. This technique may be ancient but that doesn’t make it easy to handle as it relies on two essential features: components

and heat. Insufficient heat is enough to ruin the artisan’s work. With cloisonné enamelling, thin wires form raised barriers just like a bevelled silhouette to create small cavities ready to be filled with enamel. As for champlevé enamelling, the metal base is delicately carved out to form pits which are filled with enamel whilst plique-à-jour’s lack of backing enables you to create a miniature piece of stained glass. Paillonné is the dazzling union between "paillons" (thin strands of gold or silver leaf) and enamel that’s usually dark in colour. Painting on enamel produces highly detailed miniature portraits, landscapes or scenes from life. "In Geneva, one of the signature crafts was miniature enamel painting. The beauty of pieces that involve craftsmanship is that handiwork is essential," says Philippe Stern, paying tribute to artisans.

045 Calatrava with hand-engraved and enameled dial 5088/100P

Delicate sculpture There are several techniques to sculpt the dial or rounded body of a table clock: copper-plate, bas-relief, relief and guillochage. From the world of goldsmithery, copper-plate engraving involves using a chisel or dry-point to etch on copper whilst bas-relief and relief play on perspectives and 3D sculpture to a greater or lesser degree. Characters and patterns rise from the base with depth created by bas-relief engraving; relief etching involves engraving a metal plate to bring out a pattern. Guillochage or engine-turning is also a highly popular engraving technique in watchmaking. The result, called "guillochis” or "guillochure", is an "embellishment made up of lines, waves which interweave or cross over in symmetry," according to the dictionary definition by the Académie Française (8 th edition); these

Calatrava with dial in grisaille au blanc de Limoges enamel 5089G

straight, vertical or circular lines are created using an engine-turning machine which applies a fixed chisel to a moving metal plate. In the short film produced by Patek Philippe, Sandrine Stern says that some crafts can be combined to create something spectacular, such as flinqué enamel: "We usually like to bring engraving and enamelling together because they finish each other off. The enamel is the canvas and the engraving is the painting." The nuances of marquetry and grisaille "What we also like to do is to incorporate marquetry as the wood is such high quality and the cut is so accurate that you can’t even see the joints between the parts," continues Sandrine Stern. The design is produced by the artisan by assembling tiny pieces of wood in

different colours, (60-70), species (20) and shapes. This miniature puzzle is a true mosaic of almost 200 pieces. Grisaille, or chiaroscuro, is another tonal palette. This artistic technique is often listed among the different types of enamelling. It uses different shades of the same colour by layering Limoges white. This monochrome painting is done using a needle-thin paintbrush, usually on dark enamel, and the shadow and light produced by the shading make it a fantastic field of expression.

>>>

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Cover story Patek PhiliPPe

046 Dome table clock in flinqué enamel set with pearls 20001M

The purity of diamond and crystal The gleam of gemstones, particularly diamonds, captures your attention. However, the intensity of their shine also depends on their setting as some techniques showcase gems in different ways. With grain-setting, also known as "pave", the stones are all the same size and held in place by wires topped by metal beads. The gem-setter folds the beads over to keep the diamonds in place and create a dazzling tapestry. An invisible setting is staggering as no metallic parts can be seen and the stones seem to form a compact and gleaming ensemble. In reality, they have been cut into grooves and lined up before being inserted into two metallic rails which hold them in place. As for snow-setting, different diameters of diamonds are used. They are set side by side so you can’t see any metal, just like the invisible setting. Some unique Dôme table clocks have a crystal coating (a type of shiny glass) made

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Dome table clock in Baccarat crystal 10007M

in collaboration with Baccarat. Artisans at the crystal makers that was founded in the 18th century in Meurthe-et-Moselle (in the heart of Lorraine in North-East France) spent over 70 hours painstakingly engraving a pattern similar to Clou de Paris on each square millimetre of the translucent silhouette. "When creating these handcrafts, joy is vital to us. (...) Joy in the ability to design, joy in the ability to produce and, of course, joy in the ability to share these pieces be it within the family or with our clients," says Sandrine Stern.

*Editor’s note: the Huguenots were French Protestants who left France in the late 16 th century after countless battles with the Catholics. Out of 300,000 fleeing Huguenots, approximately 30,000 settled in Geneva. **Editor’s note: Calvinism is a protestant theological doctrine named after French pastor and reformer Jean Calvin (1509-1564)

Dome table clock in cloisonné and paillonné enamel 20007M

047

Pocket watch with cloisonné and paillonné enamel, engraving and precious stones 982/182J

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

IntervIew  Sharmila Bertin

Angelo BonAti: "Buying A wAtch is Buying An emotion, A culture, A vAlue"

048

anerai CEO Angelo Bonati met us just before the top SIHH watchmaking event to discuss the Florentine brand’s new factory in the hills of Neuchâtel and the younger generation of clients, a market than can be difficult to attract. A passionate discussion with an equally passionate gentleman! What has stood out in 2015 in terms of design and new movements? The consequence of our factory’s evolution is new products. One of the brand’s main goals was to create a range of movements which could take Panerai into the future with a workshop/artisan spirit true to the brand. That’s why every year for the last ten, we have produced a new movement to achieve this goal. Which movements are they? One of our most recent movements is the P.4000 calibre, a self-winding movement with a small rotor. It’s a fine watchmaking movement which will be a strategic element in the future since we’ll be able to add other functions to it as this movement develops. It’s also enabled us to design products which are

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

more approachable to audiences aside from our current clients. Why? Because there are those who would love to wear a Panerai but tell us "it’s too heavy" or "it’s too big". We could never design a small watch but we could create a watch that’s, let’s say, "reasonable" in size. The movement is the key part that enables us to have a slimmer case but stay true to Panerai’s usual diameter and also allow us to present different products. So we’re going to base an entire development on this movement. Another movement that we unveiled...The problem is that if you ask me what I’m doing now, I can’t remember but if you ask me what I’m doing in the next three years, I can’t tell you! [laughs]. Well, another movement that we unveiled is the P.1000 calibre, a manual wind movement which will and already is enabling us to have slimmer sizes to achieve our goal of reaching new clients. In terms of new clients, what are your thoughts on “the new generation”, the 18-25 year olds? Do you think they’re less interested in watchmaking than previous generations?

I see it slightly differently. Let’s say that the "new generations" as you’ve called them tend to be students. Students nowadays aren’t interested in watches. They may get one as a gift when they graduate or to celebrate something but otherwise they’re not going to buy themselves a watch unless they’re enthusiasts. Nowadays, everything’s electronic, iPhone, iPad and everything starting with "i" meaning they can satisfy a need: telling the time and other little gimmicks. But the minute the new generation becomes the current generation and they start working, get engaged, have an everyday routine that differs from their youth, that’s when the watch makes its entrance as a decorative piece, a passion, something that satisfies certain feelings. It becomes emotional. Exactly, so isn’t the "new generation" more interested in smartwatches? This isn’t the first time that your colleagues have asked me the same question but in another way. They ask if the Apple Watch or the like could affect the watch industry. Personally, I don’t think so. They’re two completely different things. One is an iPhone

049

or iPod you wear on your wrist but it requires another device to use it and doesn’t inspire any emotion. It’s a toy. Watches, now they inspire emotion. If you’re going to spend 10,000 or 20,000 Euros on a watch, you’re not going to buy it as a timekeeping device. You’re buying an emotion, a culture, a tradition. You know, deeply meaningful values. Some brands are worried about this ultra-connected new generation who love toys and don’t share the same values of tradition and legacy as watchmaking. You see, with a watch, without calling it more or less important as it all depends on your budget, there are those who are fortunate and can get themselves an amazing watch then there are the less fortunate who can get themselves a watch. Basically, you form a bond with a watch because it goes everywhere with you on your wrist. When it comes to these toys, the Apple Watch, after six months you’ll have to get the new model then the next. Watches and Apple watches satisfy different needs. I don’t think that one day…Well maybe one day because anything can happen, but I

don’t think that electric….Electric doesn’t add any value. If you want value, you need to go elsewhere. For women, it’s jewellery whilst men can’t resist watches and cars! When you have two cars, you could get a fully electric one which does everything itself but it would be like catching the train or bus and you’d lose the emotion of driving. I think the same goes for watches. How about women’s watches? Do you plan to design a collection for ladies? I can’t think like a woman! [laughs] I’m going to be honest with you: we make watches with their own personality, their own identity and DNA. It would be hard to deny the philosophy, history and values behind the brand to be part of a market sector which isn’t our own. But I am convinced that the women who want a Panerai buy it because it’s a Panerai. If I make a diamond watch for women, it’s no longer a Panerai; it’s just a watch. So we’d lose our strong identity and it would tarnish our image. So let’s say no. Even in our day-to-day lives, we all have our own identity. I’m not going to pretend to have hair when I don’t! [laughs]

We’ve not had the chance to visit your new factory, which has been operational since late 2013, because it’s only open to the press in 2016. How does the production site work? When everything grew in terms of technicality and complexity in our range, we decided to move to this 10,000m² site to start from scratch and be able to make each watch component up to completion. Of course, we don’t make the case, one of our companies does that. And another company makes the dial because, as you know in the watch sector, each component is a speciality. However, in terms of development, the production of most of our components, assembly and quality control, it all happens in the factory. We wanted to create a modern factory. You won’t find someone filing when you visit Panerai because nobody does that anymore. If that was the case, it wouldn’t be right, we wouldn’t be consistent. We’ve created a modern and avant-garde factory. Our machines and systems are avant-garde. We’re in the process of launching a fine watch sector as we make fine watches. It’s a sector that should be shielded and separate as it has its >>>

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Photos © Mickael Gautier

050

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

So everyone can communicate more easily because everyone’s in the same place? That’s what I wanted. People should know each other, even over three floors, and meet each other. If they meet each other, they’ll talk to each other. If they keep communicating by email, that’s ridiculous. Sometimes someone writes to me when they’re in the office next to me, it drives me mad! You have to talk, look into each other’s eyes, that’s very important. Many technical and personal problems could be resolved if two people look at each other and talk. It’s one of the quality aspects of the factory. Is your new factory eco-friendly? We put the eco-friendly aspect into the factory’s construction. We actually took it further. It’s technically complicated to explain. But, for example, rainwater is completely recycled. Even the town of Neuchâtel greatly respects us for that. We also incorporated the factory into the landscape in terms of architecture so you don’t see it before you get there. Everything was done with the environment in mind. Everything was designed to use as little electricity as possible which is both ecological and economical. In

any case, we have a responsibility to do what’s best for the environment. It’s an important issue for the entire Richemont group. Everything’s focused on the environment, it’s vital to humanity. Let’s not forget that everything is recycled, even material waste, nothing’s left in the vault. For example, oil is collected after being used a certain number of times and treated. It’s all very technical but the idea was to use the best technology possible.

051

How many people work there? We have around 250 employees. Our aim is have 300 employees and produce as much is to have as possible internally. Apart from dials and cases. But in terms of case production, we’re in the process of installing new machines because the small special edition and limited series unit which needs specific cases will be made internally. As for regular production, it’s carried out by one of the group’s factories which works mainly for Panerai.

own assembly system. We’ve also thought ahead as we have spaces which are currently empty so that we can use them in the future. Given the investment we’ve made, there’s no point being cramped. It’s like going to a tailor to get a fitted suit made and after, especially me as I’ve gained two kilos [laughs], nothing fits anymore! You have to plan to grow a bit [laughs]. We have more space in the new factory and what’s good is that we’ve brought most of our watch trades together. That’s the most important thing for us, our clients and the brand as it presents itself as more rounded.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Portrait  Tiffany Cartier-Millon

Romain GauthieR: chi va piano, va sano*

052

omain Gauthier has never stayed in his comfort zone. This labourer’s son from the Vallée de Joux soon got a thirst for business. You can barely imagine the relentless drive inside the calm exterior. However, whilst the rest of his army regiment were playing cards, he was already studying for his MBA in business management. Then, whilst working as an engineering technician at a watch component company, he got down to the calculations for his future movement and asked Philippe Dufour for precious advice. When his director offered him a serious promotion, he turned it down and shared his plans for the future. The young entrepreneur put the cart before the horse. He had mastered making components before designing a movement. He was aware of the feasibility and cost issues in this industry. He presented a rational business plan to the bank. Where others failed, he succeeded. One

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

day in 2005, the movement worked. The first piece was produced. A brand was born. Romain Gauthier designed his own business model along the way. With watch component manufacturing part of his business, just like his mentor Philippe Dufour, he began producing them for other brands. He advised them too. His clients, half a dozen major brands, now bring the young company stability and account for almost half of its business. The order book is already packed until 2018 and turnover is set to triple in this department. Romain Gauthier has more than one card up his sleeve as he’s also produced patented mechanical pieces for top brands. In terms of watch design, there’s no marketing blurb, media buzz or Instagram account. This "underdog" stands out with focused creativity and signature design. The proof is the Logical One, a gem of…logic! On his quest for constant force, Romain Gauthier has

taken inspiration from the fusée-and-chain concept to design a unique movement with a slow-rotation chain and limacon. Energy is transferred on a single level which significantly reduces the chain’s length thus increasing its resistance. Beautiful, efficient and pragmatic as there’s also a patent pending for the chain and removable ruby links. The winding system also enables force to be transferred to the barrel on a single level. This piece, which he designed himself, earned him the respect of his peers and a Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award in 2013 in the Men’s Complication category. The brand is celebrating its 10 th anniversary this year. It’s back at the GPHG with its fine craftsmanship. The Logical One Secret, for which Olivier Vaucher’s studio carried out painstaking micro-marquetry, has been shortlisted in the prestigious Fine Craftsmanship category. The brand is gradually turning its back on

053

classic fine watchmaking values. The current hush-hush projects make fine craftsmanship the focus of the watches. Given the founder’s journey, who seems to be treading carefully, we can be sure of one thing: he could well appear where he’s least expected. Piano ma sano, he’s achieved his main goal: to make his contribution to the world of watchmaking.

* "Slow and steady wins the race"

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Glashütte OriGinal  Dan Diaconu

054

Sweet SixtieS

he 1960s changed the face of our society. You just have to watch a few episodes of Mad Men to gleefully dive headlong into this exciting era which broke with the past. In terms of style and design, the classic elegance of the 1950s was given a new lease of life and bright colour took pride of place. Since 2010 there’s been a sense of nostalgia about the decade which stood for frivolity, creativity and freedom. The car, luxury and watch industries are flooding the market with vintage products. Why? To showcase their legacy and soothe their clients with the promise that they’re buying a dependable and long-lasting product. What’s more, neo-retro enables designers to draw inspiration from past models but give them a good dash of technical improvement. Say yes to evolution and no to revolution! The Iconic Sixties collection by Glashütte Original is a fresh example of this. The five timepieces in the collection stand out for their dials whose sunburst finish appeared in the

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

late 50s on rock stars’ electric guitars: light in the centre and darker towards the edges. Three stages were required to achieve the desired effect. After galvanising the dials, they were coated by hand-lacquered layers. The finishing touch was a layer of colour applied using a paint gun. The result? Intense colour on the Sixties Golden, Aqua and Red watches glows from your wrist. The Sixties Brown and Grey dials are given a twist with original patterned engravings created using a guilloche stamp procedure whose 60 ton press imprints a filigree pattern. For a convincing finish, the German brand used antique tools which were almost 40 years old and had been stored in the archives up to now. The slightly arched hour and minute hands are powered by the self-winding 39-52 calibre which provides a 40-hour power reserve. Look through the back of the 39mm steel case and admire its exemplary finish oozing German expertise: three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing and a skeleton rotor. The

dials’ power of seduction doesn’t compromise what’s inside and underlines that "form is the essence brought to the surface".* Victor Hugo (1802-1885), Les Contemplations

055

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Montblanc  Sharmila Bertin

Lift the veiL 056

n a way, the Hamburg brand Montblanc is top of the class because it gets an A* for excellence across the board. Whether it be writing instruments, leather goods or watches, it gets top marks in every material and sector. There’s no magic formula; just hard work and creative thinking. The brand cleverly compliments innovation by building on its legacy and beautifully blending past and present with the future ever in mind. A genius invention made it an international star: the fountain pen that doesn’t run. Designed in 1910, its design and technical features revolutionised the art of writing. The Meisterstück, which has spawned an eponymous collection since becoming world famous in 1924, is a success story that continues to inspire Montblanc every day. Its influence is such that a watch collection was named after the fountain pen and a second collection called Heritage launched in 2014. Propelled to centre stage in 2015, Heritage Spirit features the three signatures that made the Meisterstück famous: traditional craftsmanship, timeless design and perfect function. An exceptional model in the new collection grabs your attention. Its dial oozes mystery, it unveils itself without revealing anything. Previewed at 2015’s Watches & Wonders, the luxury watch fair held in Hong Kong from

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

September 30 th to October 3 rd, Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire epitomises the German brand’s watchmaking expertise. Once again, Montblanc has certainly shown what it’s capable of achieving in its studios. Covered by a smoky sapphire crystal disc and housed in the 39mm rose gold case, the selfwinding MB 29.15 calibre shyly unveils its gears. Three counters in the centre discreetly shield part of its movement set to 28,800 vph. The movement brings to life a 40-hour power reserve, the time, date and moon phase functions. Two gold dauphine-shape hands burst from the heart of the grey veil. Their slender figures caress an hour rim made up of facetted triangular indices topped by a Roman XII. The slim, understated minute track lies next to the chapter ring. All the vital information centres around the hour and minute hands divided into four silver-rimmed counters. The month with a leap year marker takes pride of place at 12; the date display lies at 3 o’ clock; the days of the week stand at 9 and, last but not least, the moon phase indicator fills the bottom of the dial. This modern take on the lunar cycle has a blue disc whose moon and stars are partially hidden by a circular hand-turned engraving which covers the different phases like a lace veil to only reveal what’s happening now. The disc is topped by a scale bearing the different

cycles whose average duration is 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes. Since the perpetual calendar in the Heritage Spirit doesn’t need to be reset before February 28 th 2100, this timeless and elegant timepiece is ideal to pass down from father to son as tradition dictates.

057

Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Van Cleef & arpels  Sharmila Bertin

Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin

"The besT feaThers make The besT birds"*

058

ollowing in the footsteps of flowers, butterflies and stars, the Parisian brand based in the heart of Place Vendôme has unveiled three new timepieces from its Cadrans Extraordinaires collection. These lucky charms, called Oiseaux Enchantés, wrap around the wrist and poetically tell the tale of three precious birds’ flight. This is Van Cleef & Arpels’ chance to adorn its famous Lady Arpels dials with an age-old artisan craft: “plumasserie” or feather work. This sacred and symbolic art has its roots in Latin America. It became industrialised and sold in Europe from the 19th century. It was very popular in decorative arts and fashion but declined in the 60s. Like a phoenix from the flames, feather art is slowly rising from the

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

ashes. It has grown in popularity, especially in France among theatre and opera costume designers, shows and cabarets such as the Moulin Rouge and with creative directors at haute couture brands. Although the profession of "plumassier" is unfortunately disappearing, Van Cleef & Arpels called upon Nelly Saunier, a specialist artist with over thirty years of experience in feather art, to create three masterpieces to display in the heart of the Lady Arpels (22 of each model available). Named Maître d'Art in 2008 and Knight of Arts and Letters in 2011, Nelly Saunier is famous in the haute couture world for her collaborations with Givenchy, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne and Jean-Paul Gaultier to name but a few. This is

how the former student of Ecole Nationale des Arts Appliqués et Métiers d'Art (ENSAAMA) describes the feeling she gets from the different textures of feathers: "Soft, light, finesse, beauty those are the sources of my emotion. Raw material, living matter, richness and nuances are the ingredients in my creations. I like to distort feathers, transcend techniques, reinterpret materials to create unexpected graphic effects that are sweet or sour, matt or shiny, dyed or natural…" After painstaking and thorough selection, the feathers chosen for their structure and glowing colours are assembled and inserted using a drawing to create the desired pattern. This already delicate craft becomes even more so when it’s made miniature to fill a small space like a watch dial.

059 Lady Arpels Colibri Indigo

Each Oiseaux Enchantés model is framed in a different shade of gold: yellow for Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin, rose for Lady Arpels Colibri Indigo and white for Lady Arpels MartinPêcheur Azur. The case size is the same (38mm), the hour and minute hands have the same baton-shape and are brought to life by the same mechanical manual wind calibre. The Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin depicts the flight of the red cardinal, Cardinalis cardinalis, over streams running through lush hills. Its scarlet feathers are reminiscent of the Catholic cardinals’ robes, hence the name. This little bird has a black crest and mask which gives it an air of mystery and eccentricity. The North American cardinal is the mascot for several sports teams and emblem of some American regions but it is primarily a symbol of love and passion. It unfurls its wings and glides over valleys of jade, variscite (a rare green mineral whose name is derived from Variscia, the

Lady Arpels Martin-Pêcheur Azur

historical name for the Vogtland in Germany) and blood jasper. Three diamond-paved rivers glitter on the peaceful green landscape beneath a blue larimar sky. A red alligator strap with a yellow gold and diamond pin buckle echoes the bird’s feathers. The hummingbird, Trochilidae, on the Lady Arpels Colibri Indigo dial gazes at violet flower petals with its bright round eye. The spiral petals are rimmed with rows of diamonds surrounding lavender jade, variscite and lepidolite (a silicate whose hues range from white to lilac) marquetry. The bird, which seems to be a green violetear or Colibri thalassinus, keeps its turquoise and indigo wings fluttering over the bloom. Found mainly in Costa Rica, it is part of Native Indian legends. Sacred to the Aztecs and Tainos (indigenous tribe in the Greater Antilles), this hummingbird is known as "a sower of life" who brings joy and mischief. A purple alligator strap wraps the bird around the wrist.

Trapped beneath the Lady Arpels MartinPêcheur Azur’s sapphire crystal, the stocky little red-breasted bird beats its turquoise blue wings. The kingfisher (Latin name Alcedo atthis) uses its sword-like beak to survey the shimmering blue water in search of fish. The foaming waves in the turquoise and lapis-lazuli mosaic water glitter with diamonds. Legend has it that meeting a kingfisher is a sign of peace and tranquillity as the sky blue bird symbolises conjugal fidelity, a harmonious and loving relationship. The shades of blue are the perfect match for the green-blue alligator strap.

* Bonaventure des Périers (approx. 1510-1544) wrote French fairy-tales

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Harry Winston  Fabrice Eschmann

Opus 14, let the gOOd times rOll

060

here’s a group of passionate (and multimillionaire) collectors in the world for whom a mechanical watch is only appealing if you can play with it. Swiss watchmakers have spent a decade bringing them gems of genius. No longer really classic, automaton watches at a push, these boys’ toys have become a fully-fledged category as they’ve grown. The latest Opus by Harry Winston is one of these crazy watches. Designed by Franck Orny and Johnny Girardin, founders of Télôs in La Chaux-de-Fonds, it’s inspired by a jukebox: on demand, a mobile arm picks one of three discs from the store with the date on the first, the second time zone on the next and Harry Winston’s signature on a star on the third. Opus is first and foremost a fantastic adventure fuelled by one man, Maximilian Büsser, and one concept, a collaboration between an independent designer and the major Harry Winston brand. Opus is a ticket to a dream world, a gateway to surpass the

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

realm of possibility; Opus is the epitome of watchmaking legacies, each more exciting than the last on the cutting-edge of their trade. Between 2001 and 2013, the brand gave free rein to thirteen artisans such as François-Paul Journe, Antoine Preziuso, Vianney Halter, Christophe Claret, Felix Baumgartner and Andreas Strehler. The collection has reached a milestone with the Opus 14. There are several reasons why. It’s the first watch to appear since the Swatch Group took over Harry Winston in 2013. This change has had two major consequences: firstly, the two designers could take their time ironing out their machine before unveiling it. That’s why the number of the piece (14) is separate from the year of launch (2015). "Up to now, the tradition has been to present a piece every year at Baselworld," says Marc Hayek, president of Blancpain. "But creation cannot be controlled! The pace went against the creation of exceptional pieces. I’d like one every 6 months but that’s not possible!”

The second change: the Opus 14 benefited from the Swatch Group’s R&D laboratories, Blancpain’s as it happens. This is a huge advantage compared to previous models where designers had to cope on their own. "At any stage in development, Télôs would have had to ask for help elsewhere," says Nayla Hayek, president of the Swatch Group and Harry Winston. "It makes things easier and it’s far quicker now.” A direct result of this evolution: the Opus 14 is fitted with a Blancpain movement with a silicon spring. "It’s one of the best calibres on the market, we weren’t going to miss out!" says Johnny Girardin before adding: "It’s the first time an Opus has had silicon technology." Out of a total of three years in development, the Opus 14 spent twelve months in the Blancpain laboratories to ensure the movement worked properly and was reliable by undergoing five years of accelerated ageing. "The lab phase was very thorough", says Franck Orny. "It wasn’t always easy but at least you’re sure of the result at the end of the day."

061

>>>

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

062

The end result is astonishing! Local time appears on the miniature replica of a vinyl record which lies on top of the movement at 9 o’ clock. The retrograde minutes unfold in a semi-circle at 5.30 whilst a power reserve indicator appears in the middle of this section. This large watch (54.7mm diameter, 21.9mm thick) has lots more surprises. A pushpiece at 4 o’ clock activates a mechanical arm just like those you’d see in jukeboxes from the 1950s. The arm moves to the store and selects one of three available discs then puts it on the deck at 2 o’ clock. The "record" then spins and stops at the right marker. The additional displays feature the date and second time zone. They can be set using correctors between the lugs at 12 o’ clock. The third disc is purely aesthetic and bears Harry Winston’s signature. Last but not least, a pusher at 9 o’ clock enables the wearer to select the disc. Developing such a complication obviously isn’t relaxing, especially in terms of energy. Two barrels, therefore two separate power

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

reserves, were implemented. One to measure time with up to 68 hours of battery life and the other to guarantee performance with the disc going back and forth up to five times. The power reserves may be separate and work independently but a joint winding is all that’s needed to refuel them. Just 50 of the white gold Opus 14 with 1066 components will be available.

atelier-zuppinger.ch

Plate Tableware or part of a watch movement? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.

Ferdinand Berthoud  Fabrice Eschmann

An Act of fAith

064

wiss watchmaking has seen a number of big brands resurrected from the past but never before has a brand’s relaunch required such an act of faith. La Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, revived in September 2015 by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, is not only inspired by original timepieces in the family collection and exhibited at Chopard’s private museum L.U.CEUM, but it also exudes the DNA of the master’s marine chronometers with a fuséechaîne mechanism. It took four million Swiss francs and four years of research and development in a dedicated department in Fleurier, in the Swiss Jura, to create this FB 1, a tourbillion and fuséechaîne watch. "It’s the very first wristwatch to bear Ferdinand Berthoud’s name", declared Karl-Friedrich Scheufele when the piece was unveiled in autumn 2015 in Paris. "It’s a great responsibility for me." Everything, right down to the smallest detail, was considered in the relaunch starting with where it was to be presented. The French capital is in fact where Ferdinand Berthoud spent most of his career. Paris is where, in 1753, he mastered watchmaking and made his

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

mark as one of the most talented designers of his time. Capable of measuring longitude to the nearest half-degree, his marine chronometers won him the title of Watchmaker-Mechanic to the King and Navy during the reign of Louis XV. As for the FB 1’s movement which was entirely designed, developed and made in the brand’s workshops, it too is the epitome of the 18 th century watchmaker’s genius. The movement has a winding system by differential, a very specific power reserve mechanism called a "suspended mobile cone" and a suspended fusée-chaîne constant force transmission system. The 24cm long chain in itself is made up of 790 components and takes ten hours to assemble. The accuracy of this FB-T.FC tourbillion calibre has also been approved by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing). Its impressive two-tone 44mm octagonal case with watertight displays comes in white gold and titanium or rose gold and black ceramic. 50 of each model are available. Two additional models are in the pipeline.

065

Chronomètre FB1 THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Arnold & Son  Fabrice Eschmann

The True second

066

he "deadbeat second" is a true watchmaking complication that has little use nowadays. But just like the tourbillon, this mechanism, which allows the seconds hand to jump once a second and not six or eight times, still appears on some new products. Arnold & Son has even made it their speciality. When the seconds hand appeared on pocket watches in the late 18th century, it was soon called the "central seconds hand". It’s hurried little jumps, in accordance with the frequency of the balance wheel’s oscillation (six jumps/ second for 3 hertz, eight for 4 hertz), made it look like a hamster running in its wheel. But since the chronograph hadn’t yet been invented to stop hands and measure short time, it was of no use to sailors. They needed the seconds as a basis to determine longitude during long journeys. So watchmakers created the “deadbeat second” for the famous marine chronometers as well as astronomers’ regulators. Also called the "sudden second" by AbrahamLouis Breguet, "true second" or even "jumping second", the idea is to freeze the seconds hand and store the balance wheel’s energy

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

to only release it for every full second. This provides greater understanding for counting time. The many solutions, from the second barrel and spring strip to a new escapement gave rise to real complications at the time. These additional mechanisms fell into oblivion but are now attracting interest again. Inspired by the marine chronometers designed in 1764 onwards, Arnold & Son is one of the main players in the revival. Unveiled as a preview at Baselworld 2016, the DSTB – for Dial Side True Beat – is a model with a true beat second showcased on the dial. The mechanism is exceedingly elegant. It features an additional wheel paired with the fourth wheel which usually bears the seconds hand turning constantly at 9. This triggers a spring which, once a second, releases an anchorshaped lever. This then powers the seconds hand which marches along an oversize sapphire ring off-centre at 11 o’ clock. The self-winding movement designed, developed and made entirely in-house lies in a 43.5mm white gold case. Limited edition (125 available).

067

DSTB "DialHeritage Side TrueSpirit Beat" Perpetual Calendar Sapphire THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

TriTon  Olivier Müller

068

The reTurn of TriTon

he legendary diving watch brand which disappeared in the late 60s is back. New model, new owners: Triton is ready to take to the deep seas again. We won’t discuss fate or granddad’s watch. If Triton’s resurfaced today, it’s pure... coincidence! The brand’s two new owners didn’t know each other three years ago. One works in textiles, the other in telecoms. There was no tick-tock on the horizon but they shared a passion for vintage cars. What does that have to do with diving watches? "Nothing!" smiles Philippe Friedmann, one of the partners, “but the first time I met Jean Sébastien Coste, the other half of Triton, he was wearing an original Triton from the 60s. I looked for one when I got home. It took me a long time and cost 3000 EUR. I thought it odd for a little-known brand that no longer existed. I looked into it and traced the brand.” Spiro, Cousteau, in the water What he found was L’Air Liquide. The company

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

was heavily involved in scuba diving at the time. Following a collaboration with Captain Cousteau, “Spirotechnique” launched, named after a shareholder. Triton used the name but the journey didn’t last long: production began in 1963 and shut down six years later. But the Triton "Spiro" had enough time to make its mark. The ploy didn’t escape another watch brand, Auricoste, who now uses the name “Spirotechnique”. It would be hard for Triton to request a second licence for its own brand so the Friedmann & Coste duo gave a new name to its Triton collection: Subphotique. "Sub-photic is the deep sea zone where light no longer reaches," says Philippe Friedmann. "Our first model, waterresistant to 500m, fits the name perfectly". Aquatic revival Prices for the model start at 5130 Swiss francs. The relatively high price has raised questions. "We’re not messing with Swiss Made," says Philippe Friedmann. "Our movements are A10s from Soprod, our watch is assembled and

Philippe Friedmann & Jean Sébastien Coste

checked by one of Patek Philippe and Richard Mille’s partners, our straps are from La Chauxde-Fonds. It all costs money." At the end of the day, the Subphotique is a serious piece. With its crown at 12 and articulated crown protector fitted on the case, it captures the essence of its big brother. The idea, lost to Davy Jones’ locker, is a smart one: avoid diving accidents caused by crowns at 3 which often got caught. An initial limited series of 500 pieces has been produced. The second model is in the pipeline:

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

069

watchES nEwS  Sharmila Bertin

FIONA KRÜGER

POIRAY

CElEbRAtION SKull

MA PREMIèRE bROdERIE FlEuR CARvEN

070

nlike the Day of the Dead festivities which pay tribute to the dearly departed, the talented Fiona Krüger celebrates life with her Celebration Skull. There’s nothing sad about it. The joyful, euphoric dial of the calavera is spread over three levels and bursts with bright colours which each have a meaning. Blue represents trust, pink means celebration, red symbolises life etc. The edges of the skull, sockets, nostrils and jaw have a luminescent coating which makes the phosphorescent skull glow in the dark. The hours and minutes are tracked by two blue steel Foundation hands (a nod to Peter Speake-Marin who supported Fiona Krüger when she started out) and the date appears at 12 above the eye sockets. The steel case (57x41mm) encloses a decorated calibre which you can glimpse through the caseback.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

The Carven brand is a bit like a heritage site for French fashion," said the then French Minister for Culture, Frédéric Mitterrand, in 2010. The brand founded in 1945 by Carmen de Tommaso (19092015) joined forces with another leading Parisian name, the jeweller Poiray, to create the famous Ma Première watch. The interchangeable double strap comes in black, beige and blue and bursts with a bouquet of five little embroidered flowers. Imbued with Carven’s talent, each bloom echoes the hue of the smooth calfskin braiding. Ivory, blue or black PVC petals surround a crystal carved like a diamond and held in place by bronze claws. The curvy petals contrast beautifully with the rectangular gadrooned case. The 27x22mm case comes in steel or steel and rose gold whilst the silver, striped grey or white mother-of-pearl dial effortlessly displays the hours and minutes.

watchES nEwS  Sharmila Bertin

HERMèS

lAuRENt FERRIER

FAubOuRG MANCHEttE

GAlEt SquARE

071

n a world teeming with large pieces, Hermès surprised us all in 2014 by turning the trend on its head and unveiling a new collection of miniature watches. Named after the street on which the Parisian brand has long stood, Faubourg is a delicate, slim, understated and fabulously feminine little timepiece. This year it comes with a 19.5mm steel or rose gold case perfectly paired with a calfskin or alligator strap. The leather is cut from a single piece and available in a range of colours from classic (deep black) to eye-popping (agate red). The pin buckle secures the strap to the wrist. The simple time display on the white lacquer dial is brought to life by a quartz movement. Two silver or gold baton-shape hour and minute hands swing through time beneath the dazzling gaze of a diamond at 12 o’ clock and three hour markers.

n his 1874 book, Le carnaval du dictionnaire, the French journalist, author and poet Pierre Véron (1831-1900) gave his own definition of the warm season: "Autumn. The sun’s post-scriptum". Although the temperatures drop and the rain can be heavy, the sun continues to bathe (OK, maybe not as intensely) the earth with copper light and nature glows with an orange tint. The same autumnal spirit oozes from the flushed dial of the Galet Square. Its vertical satin-finish so dear to Laurent Ferrier showcases eleven white gold indices elongated like metallic teardrops and interspersed by an understated pearlescent minute track. Two spearshape white gold hands burst from the coppery disc to track the hours and minutes whilst the seconds tick by in a counter at 6 o’ clock. The functions are brought to life by the self-winding FBN 229.01 calibre in the steel case.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

watchES nEwS  Sharmila Bertin

 Dan Diaconu

AudEMARS PIGuEt

PIERRE dEROCHE

ROYAl OAK quANtIèME PERPétuEl

GRANdClIFF PuRE NACRE

072

n a world ruled by technology and digital, people still admire engineering for its innovative techniques and reliability. Designed and made by man, it lives at our pace and at our hands. The proof is the new self-winding 5134 calibre made by Audemars Piguet. It is housed in the 41mm steel or rose gold case which fuels the many functions on the Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel. Its blue or silver dial is adorned by the "Grande Tapisserie" pattern with the hours and minutes in the centre, days, month, date and leap years in three counters with hands at 3, 9 and 12 o’ clock plus an astronomical moon at 6 o’ clock. The 52 weeks on the chapter ring are tracked by an arrow-tipped central hand. The applied indices and Royal Oak hands all have a luminescent coating and come in white or rose gold subject to model.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

here’s a good reason why mother-of-pearl is omnipresent in the world of ladies’ watches; it never fails to surprise with its kaleidoscope of colour reminiscent of the azure lagoons and deserted beaches of faraway islands. Its power of seduction is sealed in the new GrandCliff Pure Nacre. Enhanced by their blue-tinged dials, these watches are understated classics elevated by the presence of four Roman numerals, a power reserve indicator at 7 o’ clock and a traditional date display at 3. The curvaceous and refined 40mm case reflects the sense of minimalism radiating from the dial. Pierre DeRoche has reacted to the modern woman’s appreciation of mechanisms and has insightfully fitted these timepieces with a self-winding movement (42-hour power reserve). A glamorous model whose bezel is paved with 60 diamonds (0.91 carat) will catch the eyes of stylish ladies who want to adorn their wrists with effortless style and a dash of luxury.

watchES nEwS  Dan Diaconu

CuERvO & SObRINOS

JAEGER-lECOultRE

HIStORIAdOR vuElO

GEOPHYSIC® tRuE SECONd

073

istoriador Vuelo is taking us on a journey imbued with nostalgia. This is a time when the streets filled with colourful buildings in Habana Vieja, the Cuban capital’s old town, didn’t just attract tourists with backpacks but instead elegant businessmen, explorers and writers who lived in the here and now. With its complex multi-level dial as colourful as Cuban music, the different complications brought to life by the self-winding Dubois Depraz 30342 movement dance the salsa for the duration of its 40-hour power reserve. Short time is tracked by red and blue hands in bi-compax counters. A bright blue GMT hand glides along the 24 hour scale. A display at 6 o’ clock showcases the trailing date. An elegant alcantara and alligator strap with a deployment clasp hugs the curves of the 44mm steel case’s lugs. Cuervo & Sobrinos is undoubtedly the most Latin among the Swiss brands.

ave you heard of jumping seconds? Maybe not from a technical point of view but you’ve surely seen them in action. A central seconds hand jumps forward every second instead of gliding around the dial. This unique feature, typical of quartz watches, is a feat of mechanical watchmaking and has been around since the 18th century when watchmakers were looking for a way to measure short time. The chronograph was in its infancy. It was called "beating the second". Breguet called it "jump seconds". Jaeger-LeCoultre had the bright idea to bring the function back into fashion with a new name: the true second. Unveiled last year as a limited edition update of a 1958 model, the Geophysic® has now spawned its own collection. The True Second model houses the the function fuelled by its self-winding movement in an elegant steel or rose gold case (39.6 mm).

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

watchES nEwS  Dan Diaconu

CARtIER

RICHARd MIllE

Clé dE CARtIER l’HEuRE MYStéRIEuSE

RM 63-02 HEuRE uNIvERSEllE

074

he fusion of a century old complication and the latest collection to be unveiled this year has made uncovering the Clé de Cartier L’Heure Mystérieuse a moving visual experience. Like watching the perfect magic trick, it’s spellbinding. But there’s no need for illusion here, just expertly mastered mechanical knowledge. The curve is tight, the angles have disappeared, the bezel is round and the lugs are smooth. The slightly elongated case (41mm) presents harmonious features. Two spear-shape hands on the openwork dial spin in the heart of off-centre sapphire discs brought to life by the famous manual wind 9981MC movement and the mysterious hour and minute display (48-hour power reserve). The assorted Roman numerals and minute track reflect the brand’s signature features. Operating the crown harks back to a time when winding a watch was a ceremony in itself. Whether it be in palladium or rose gold, this timepiece is a feat of design.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

ust landed in Los Angeles? Position the name of the city at 12 o’ clock on the dial of your RM 63-02 using the rotating bezel mounted on ball bearings. The watch then automatically displays local time and its chapter ring features the local time in 23 other cities linked to the world’s time zones. There’s no need for fussy fiddling. The self-winding skeleton Richard Mille CRMA3 calibre (50-hour power reserve) in the 47mm titanium case handles everything itself. A two-tone blue and white disc on the rim of the dial lets you know if night has fallen in these cities or if you can still contact a friend without waking them up. A semi-instant date display completes the timekeeping features. As for the understated pusher at 4 o’ clock, one touch decides the crown’s function. Depending on the mode you select, the letter W (winding), N (neutral) or H (hand setting) appears in a display at 4 o’ clock.

watchES nEwS  Sharmila Bertin

CORuM

bEll & ROSS

HERItAGE ARtISANS COIN WAtCH

bR-X1 CHRONOGRAPH tOuRbIllON

075

he bald eagle became the national bird of the United States on June 20th 1782. It is a symbol of beauty, strength and prestige which appears grasping arrows and an olive branch in its talons on most official American seals, including the President’s. It also appears on several coins such as the US dollar and inspired Corum to design the first Coin Watch with a coin as a dial in 1964. Half a century later, the La Chaux-de-Fonds brand has unveiled a limited edition of 100 pieces whose dial is a real dollar in 925 silver protected by sapphire crystal. Two black baton-shape hour and minute hands burst from beneath the eagle’s head powered by the self-winding CO 082 calibre which provides a 42hour power reserve. The movement is nestled in the 43mm silver case whose crown gleams with a diamond.

eminiscent of a fighter jet with its square cabin in grade 5 titanium (transition metal popular in aeronautics and aerospace for its hardness, light weight and resistance to rust and high temperatures), the monopusher BR-X1 chronograph tourbillon is powered by a manual wind calibre which provides a power reserve of up to 100 hours. The model designed by Bell & Ross showcases its mechanical heart beneath grey-tinted sapphire crystal. The so-called traditional hours and minutes appear in the centre tracked by two openwork luminescent hands. They glide over applied metallic hour markers and a white decal minute track whose graduations appear on the chapter ring. The chronograph function (seconds and minute counters at 2 and 10 on the dial respectively) is started, stopped and reset using the monopusher at 2 on the case side.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

watchES nEwS  Sharmila Bertin

bvlGARI

uRWERK

PAPIllON HEuRE SAutANtE

uR-106 lOtuS

076

n the wise words of French poet Paul Claudel (1868-1955), "For the flight of a single butterfly, a whole sky is needed". In the world of mechanical poetry, the Bvlgari butterfly unfurls its gold wings in the heart of a black jade dial. The Papillon Heure Sautante’s unique patented display showcases a jumping hour complication in a black-on-white display at 12 o’ clock, a large central seconds hand and two short diamond-shape hands. Each hand glides along a semi-circular minute track adorned with large Arabic numerals from 3 to 9 o’ clock. The first hand of the pair is retracted whilst the second sweeps time under its wing before the first takes over after 55 minutes. This team work (dare we say it?!), the jumping hours and seconds are fuelled by the mechanical self-winding BVL 252 movement in the 45mm rose or white gold case.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

his is a first in watchmaking: a flower has blossomed from young Urwerk’s collections! A stylised lotus unfurls three titanium petals on the dial of the UR-106 each wrapped around four luminescent hour indices. Embodying birth and rebirth, the lotus flower oozes femininity in its beauty and character. Urwerk has two distinct UR-106 blooms playing on black and white, day and night, yin and yang. Both glitter with black or white diamonds. The large steel case – 35x49.4x14.45mm – features a diamond crown and titanium or black PVD coated titanium back. The minute track takes a back seat on the sandblasted satin-finish dial to give centre stage to the moon phase in the pharaoh’s favourite blue lapis lazuli. The satellite hours are brought to life by the self-winding 6.01 calibre which provides a 48-hour power reserve.

watchES nEwS  Sharmila Bertin

tAG HEuER

HAutlENCE

CARRERA CAlIbRE HEuER 01

tOuRbIllON 01

077

ith pride in its mechanical heart, the Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 boldly shows off its chronograph’s cogs and date disc open-worked like a veil of lace over its transparent dial. The self-winding Heuer 01 calibre by TAG Heuer provides a 50-hour power reserve from inside the 45mm titanium case topped with a coal black bezel adorned by a tachymeter scale. Surrounded by a black chapter ring engraved with the minute track, the hours unfurl their red and white tinged rhodium-plated indices. Two metallic luminescent hands track the hours and minutes whilst the seconds tick by in a black-rimmed counter at 9 o’ clock. The chronograph functions have three bright red hands: seconds in the centre, minutes at 12 and hours at 6. The counters also have a silver rim to make it easier to read the information. The date appears in the red display at 3 o’ clock.

t may not be the first time but it’s always a bit of a surprise to see a round watch in the edgy and highly architectural timepiece collections by Hautlence. The biggest surprise however is when you realise that the dial on the Tourbillon 01 is relatively "covered" and its openwork lower part showcases a tourbillon. Fuelled by a self-winding HMC 802 calibre designed by H. Moser & C ie, the tourbillon completes a revolution in a minute. The movement also powers the 72-hour power reserve, time functions and a second time zone. The dial is adorned by black enamelled Côtes de Genève and has three central rose gold hands all coated in Super-LumiNova® apart from the GMT hand. Luminescent indices and Arabic hour numerals unfurl on the translucent screwdown bevelled rim which also bears the white decal minute track.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

watchES nEwS  Sharmila Bertin

EbERHARd & CO.

tudOR

EXtRA-FORt AutOMAtIC

HERItAGE blACK bAY

078

ounded in 1887 by Georges-Emile Eberhard, the watch manufacturer of the same name has stood the test of time, remaining discreet but ever present. The firm’s first watch equipped with a chronograph was produced in 1919, and then, in 1947, after a series of product launches and innovations, Eberhard & Co. designed the Extra-Fort model. Available in collectors’ models from the 1950s, it became the symbol of the La Chauxde-Fonds brand. Almost 70 years later, the three-handed model features a dial with vertical pinstripe lines, available in black, grey and silver. A blue hour ring offsets the graphic lines and brings out the metallic applique hour markers and Roman numerals. Two silver dauphine-shape hands track the hours and minutes; the seconds are also displayed in the centre. The black minute track lies near the bezel with blue, silver or white Arabic numerals, depending on the dial colour. The date is also displayed in a metal-framed window at 6 o’clock.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

he expression "third time’s a charm" has never been so apt! During the second half of 2015, the Heritage Black Bay collection welcomed a new arrival. Following in the footsteps of the burgundy model in 2012 and the blue one in 2014, the newcomer is dressed head to toe in black. It has the same signature features as its predecessors: inspiration from the Tudor Submariner from 1954, the famous "snowflake" hands designed in the late 1960s, the same hour display on the black dial. The rotating steel bezel with a matt black graduated ring tops the 41mm steel case. The self-winding Tudor 2824 calibre fuels a 38-hour power reserve and brings to life the hour/minute/ second functions. The gold hands on the dial have a luminescent coating and glide along an hour rim adorned with gold bevelled indices and a gold minute track just like the 2012 version.

watchES nEwS  Sharmila Bertin

GIRARd-PERREGAuX

dEWItt

1966 ACIER

tWENtY-8-EIGHt tOuRbIllON SquElEttE

079

966 is an important date in the history of Girard-Perregaux. It’s the date when the super Gyromatic calibre with its high frequency first appeared (36,000 vibrations per hour). The milestone year was then used to name an understated and elegant watch collection. The La Chaux-de-Fonds brand has stepped outside its comfort zone and given one of its iconic watches, usually in rose or white gold, a steel case. It has a mechanical self-winding GP 03300-0030 calibre fuelling a 46-hour power reserve. The silver lacquer dial only features the bare essentials: hours, minutes, seconds and date. The embellishment-free dial is adorned by bevelled metal indices interspersed by a subtle pearlescent minute track. Two rounded leaf-shape hands tick time down alongside a slim central seconds hand and the date display at 3 o’ clock.

he Constitution of the Year XII was adopted in the 28th month of the French Revolutionary Calendar on May 18th 1804 and established Napoleon Bonaparte (1769-1821) as Emperor of France. The number 28 inspired Jérôme De Witt, a descendent of Napoleon I and founder of the eponymous brand, to create a collection called Twenty-8Eight in 2010. The collection now has a skeleton tourbillon model with no dial but instead a modern take on the complication. The openwork platinum unveils a blue PVD-coated nickel silver base (copper, nickel and zinc alloy). The intense blue creates a striking contrast with the silver-tone tourbillon held in place by a bridge at 6 and the barrel visible at 12. Two metallic spear-shape hands track the hour and minutes powered by the manual wind DW8028s calibre. The movement provides a 72-hour power reserve from inside the 43mm white gold case whose sides are engraved with 48 imperial columns.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

Only Watch

 Sharmila Bertin

A lAndmArk event high in emotion

080

hose who were fortunate enough to be on the banks of Lake Geneva on Saturday November 7th were part of a moving milestone event when famous auctioneer Aurel Bacs’ hammer sealed the fate of a unique Patek Philippe watch and its happy owner. The exceptional auction to raise money for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD) was organised by the president of the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (AMM) and founder of Only Watch, Luc Pettavino, with support from Phillips auction house in association with Bacs & Russo. Forty four unique pieces designed by the greatest watchmakers were sold at the 6th Only Watch event. Five of the watches sold for phenomenal amounts, well above the experts’ estimates. Genevan brand Patek Philippe came top of the list with a landmark total of 7.3 million Swiss francs. Initial estimates for reference 5016A (a 36.8mm steel case with a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, in-house manual wind movement and midnight blue dial) were

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

between 700,000 and 900,000 Swiss francs. Those estimates were smashed during a ruthless battle between two bidders lasting almost ten minutes with the hammer falling on over 7 million and receiving a standing ovation from attendees. Second in the highest bids was Richard Mille’s RM 27-02 prototype, a seriously technical piece which has been tested by Spanish tennis player Rafael Nadal on several occasions and sold for 650,000 Swiss francs. The Tourbillon Souverain Bleu by F. P. Journe came next with 550,000 Swiss francs. Another spectacular sum: 375,000 Swiss francs for Tudor’s unique Heritage Black Bay which was initially estimated at...3,500 to 4,500 Swiss francs! Fifth place went to Voutilainen whose GMT-6 watch sold for 145,000 Swiss francs. In total, the Only Watch 2015 auction raised 11,268 million Swiss francs (approximately 10.3 million Euros) for the charity. Aside from the final figure which provides incredible support for the battle against muscular dystrophy, Only Watch is an amazing

human experience, a remarkable and unique show of solidarity and generosity uniting forty four watch brands.

Patek Philippe

081

Richard Mille

F. P. Journe

Tudor

Voutilainen

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

MARCH 17 – 24, 2016 BASEL – SWITZERLAND

THE

Baselworld is universally recognized as the premier

U N M ISSA BL E

jewellery industry. What makes it unmissable is the

T R E N DSET T I NG

brands choose Baselworld as the venue to unveil their

event and trendsetting show for the global watch and

SHOW

fact that 1,500 of the world’s best and most reputed latest innovations and creations thereby attracting some 150,000 attendees from every corner of the earth. Only in Baselworld will you find all the key players representing every sector from watchmakers to jewellers, from diamonds, pearls and gemstones dealers through to all the relevant suppliers.

BUSI N ESS A N D M E DI A E F F E CTS R E V E R BE R AT E A ROU N D T H E GLOBE

W H ER E EMOT IONS A R E E VOK E D A N D DR E A MS COM E A L I V E

Baselworld becomes the focal point of the whole world for eight days a year, as this is where the tone for an entire industry is determined, and trends defined. Within the 141,000 m 2 hallowed halls of Baselworld and amidst the fabulous pavilions of the most innovative and successful global brands, wonders are just waiting to be discovered. Beyond the amazement and excitement lies a bountiful world of business opportunities. The most influential brand CEOs, retailers and press representatives unite under one roof to create this singular setting. More than 4,300 journalists attending and disseminating real time show news to every corner of the planet, help propagate these trends around the world.

As the one and only show where the watch and jewellery industry first presents its innovations and new collections to the market, Baselworld is and remains the most unique annual event. Don’t miss this window of opportunity to witness the spectacular collection of luxury goods, brands and lifestyle. We invite you to dive into this wonderland and be a part of the most important trendsetting show in the world.

baselworld.com

BASELWORLD.COM

The one unmissable trendsetting show for the entire watch and jewellery industry, where all key players unite to unveil their latest creations and innovations. Be a part of this premier event and experience passion, precision and perfection in action.

MARCH 17 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 24, 2016

It’s time for everyday extraordinary. TISSOT CHEMIN DES TOURELLES AUTOMATIC. A VERY SPECIAL PIECE THAT TAKES ITS NAME FROM TISSOT’S HOME ADDRESS IN LE LOCLE, THE CRADLE OF THE WATCH INDUSTRY IN SWITZERLAND. IT HAS A POWERMATIC 80 MOVEMENT WITH UP TO 80 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE, A DOMED SCRATCH-RESISTANT SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL AND A SEETHROUGH CASEBACK.

ZU R I CH — PAR I S — LO N D O N — N E W YO R K — B EIJ I N G — H O N G KO N G — SI N GAP O R E — N E W D ELH I — D U BAI — M O S COW

TI S S OT WATC H E S .CO M