2 minute read
TRENDS
TAKING THE RIGHT MEASURES
Dan Diaconu
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“Architecture is how the person places herself in the space. Fashion is about how you place the object on the person”. This line of thinking pursued by Zaha Hadid (1950-2016) reflects on how to integrate creations in an environment and relate them to daily life. This British-Iraqi architect’s creations stand out through their ability to embrace their environments perfectly. Watchmakers also address the issue by tailoring the sizes of their watches to be in tune with the times. After decades of oversized models, small-scale is now back in style. As such, a host of timepieces flaunt cases with diameters of less than 40 mm. As well as their propensity to suit women’s and men’s wrists, anytime, anywhere, these new references emphasize the importance of wearer-friendliness when it comes to design. Optimal comfort, excellent data readability and seductive power are all the rage.
The HO8 watch, imagined by Philippe Delhotal, Creation and Style Director of Hermès Horloger, epitomizes this. The 39 mm diameter of its cushion-shaped titanium case infuses this piece with harmonious lines. All the stylistic details, inspired by the ready-to-wear creations of the Parisian fashion house, add to its unique personality. The omnipresent blue and grey ensure this newcomer is totally in line with what’s in vogue.
Likewise, iconic pieces are taking on a smaller common denominator. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its Royal Oak, whose lines were inspired by Gérald Genta (1931-2011), Audemars Piguet proposes a wide array of references created around 39 mm and 37 mm cases in precious metals, yellow
gold, rose gold or platinum. The steel versions perpetuate the personality of the original 1972 model. This time-to-scale-down homothety is also visible on Tissot’s PRX, which has unveiled 35 mm models.
In 2003, Zenith enhanced its collections with the Chronomaster Open. The aim was to centre stage the heart beating at a high frequency and its emblematic El Primero. This time round, the starlogoed manufacture has revisited the style of its model with a case flaunting more up-to-the-minute lines totalling a diameter of 39.5 mm versus 42 mm previously, proposed in steel and rose gold. With this new size, every detail has been thought about to improve visual harmony and to offer comfortable wear. In short, lugs are slimmer and polished bevelling that’s more pronounced around the edges makes a comeback. Size reduction can also be seen in sporty references such as Blancpain’s Air Command, now available with a case of just 36.2 mm. This collection, presented three years ago and inspired by a legendary model from the 1950s, boasts chronographs equipped with a flyback function proposed in 42.5 mm diameter and also in 36.2 mm in red gold or titanium. Some may tend to think that the smaller sizes are designed for the ladies. Yet, the manufacture has good taste and never mentions gender.