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WEST CHESTER
WINTER 2020
We All Deserve A Treat!
Like this incredible display crafted by the expert hands at YORI’S CHURCH STREET BAKERY
OPEN TABLES
Exploring West Chester’s outdoor/patio dining scene in the winter
DINING OUT
There’s never a wrong time to enjoy
THE MEDITERRANEAN
SAVOR A SLICE Enjoying some of the best ‘za in town at AMERICA’S PIE, LAS VEGAS & BROTHERS ...plus so much more GOOD FOOD NEWS!
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Dining Out Sampling some of the borough’s best meals in West Chester’s premier dinner destinations. Sometimes the best dinner “plans” start out with no plan. The only one my sister Linda and I had on a random October Tuesday evening was to meet downtown after she got off work in Philly to grab a bite to eat prior to my 7pm haircut at The Refinery. We met at 5:30 on the corner of Walnut and Gay, leaving ourselves just over an hour for dinner. We like to live on the edge. We discussed options (and about 57 other things) as we strolled. She’d just eaten at Opa two days before so that was out; I’d had Couch Tomato for lunch so scratch that. It was such a gorgeous evening that we ambled along, people watching and window-shopping, before realizing we’d reached the end of the line of the open-air dining and market section of Gay Street, at which point we said “Let’s do The Mediterranean” pretty much simultaneously. If you don’t know this little jewel box of a restaurant, please fix that. One of my favorite places to photograph in this whole town, more to the point, The Med serves simply excellent food, and is just the ticket if you’re not looking for the same old same old. This tiny BYOB offers Italian-Lebanese infusion cuisine with plenty of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options if that’s your thing, along with daily fresh seafood specials. Everything here is from scratch, locally sourced, and the meat is grass-fed and organic. I poked my head inside and a waitress asked if we preferred indoor or outside seating. Given the aforementioned gorgeous evening, we opted for outside. The sun was low in the sky and it was keep-your-light-jacket-on weather. We were seated at a table for two, topped with a white tablecloth, votive candle, a small gourd, and a stalk of goldenrod in a tall glass. Delightful. Two couples sat at another table a safe distance away; a family of four with two children and a beautiful dog also nearby (but not too close). We scanned the menu with our 6
phones—and it’s quite the menu. I’d forgotten that such a large amount of food is generated out of such a snug little space.
“If you don’t know this little jewel box of a restaurant, please fix that.... The Med serves simply excellent food, and is just the ticket if you’re not looking for the same old same old.” Our masked server-slash-hostess, Katrina, brought us water with lemon and a basket of (exquisite) bread—the Med also has its own bakery in the adjacent space, and the bread and desserts are made there. After she thoroughly and cheerfully fielded a couple of our questions about specific menu items, we were ready.
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Linda decided to go with a couple of appetizers, and I chose an entrée. She started with the mussels marinara—a meal in itself—and made quick work of that fragrant dish, mopping up the sauce with the bread. As a follow up and served with my entrée, she ordered the Meat Pie; a fresh baked pita topped with ground beef sauteed with onions, garlic, and tomatoes. I don’t eat seafood, so I left her to the mussels, but I definitely requested a sample of this. The Syrian Baharat seasoning—a mixture of coriander, cardamom, and cloves, among others—gave this already tasty dish a nice little kick. My entrée was the Vegetable Alfredo, which you order as-is or with chicken or shrimp; I opted for chicken. The medley of perfectly cooked zucchini, squash, mushrooms, onions, peppers, and carrots made me feel better about the
truly decadently rich and cheesy housemade-to-order alfredo sauce. This was all tossed with fresh from-scratch pasta sourced right from West Chester’s own Vera Pasta Shop (where you can buy retail—you’re welcome).
“The medley of perfectly cooked zucchini, squash, mushrooms, onions, peppers, and carrots made me feel better about the truly decadently rich and cheesy house-made-to-order alfredo sauce.” While I packaged up half of my entrée to take along, we lamented that we had no time for coffee and dessert and paid the check. Then the stars aligned: my hairdresser Whitney texted that she was running 15 minutes behind—was that okay? Yes. We summoned the gracious Katrina back and ordered coffee— also local, from Lamont Coffee—for Linda and decaf tea for me, and “something quick” for dessert, settling on two chocolate chip cookies. They were large, chewy, and still warm from the oven, served on a plate with a bit of whipped cream and a couple of strawberries. I have always joked that cookies don’t count as dessert. I have also always been able to admit when I am wrong. In this case, I was wrong because they absolutely did. Among the other dessert options are baklava and deep-dish apple pie, and The Med serves Philly’s iconic Bassett’s Ice Cream because it’s the best ice cream and that’s all there is to it. A fixture in downtown WC since 1997, The Med’s extensive and varied menu, efficient, friendly, and knowledgeable servers, and excellent food are the reasons why. The pretty little building just adds to the magic.
The Mediterranean is open for dinner from 3-9pm every day but Monday. Pickup and delivery also available. Visit them at 150 West Gay Street, or themedwcpa.com story & photos @KATEC616
KATE CHADWICK
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Behind the Bar with
Amanda Tozzi
Discussing the details of a life behind bars with one of the borough’s best-known faces. How long have you been at Barnaby’s? I just had my six-year anniversary. Are you from the West Chester area? I am actually from upstate New York, around the Saratoga area. I moved here eight years ago. Have you worked as a bartender in other restaurants before Barnaby’s? I had never bartended before I worked here. I had worked at P.F. Chang’s in Glen Mills. My friend was also a server at P.F. Chang’s and she got a bartending position [at Barnaby’s]. She ended up doing well and I think that’s why they felt more comfortable hiring the two of us as bartenders. So bartending was a whole new thing for you? I mean, I’d read the books
and stuff because I was next in line to become bartender. But I was shaking! I did two daytime training shifts with [day bartender] Drew Shiomos. It’s a bit slower during the day—there’s a lot more of a business crowd. Then my last training shift was upstairs in the dance bar. I walked in there, and literally my hands were shaking I was so nervous. And then, it all just kind of fell into place and I got more comfortable. I’d be the same way! But I’m assuming it was a good fit since you’ve been there so long. Everyone there is like family to me. It’s been really, really great. I don’t work there as often anymore—I have another job in Kennett. But I love it, and I pick up shifts whenever I can. It’s so much fun. I’m looking at your specialty drinks list—do they change? They do change seasonally. The Skinny Refresher has been a staple, as well as The Barnaby’s Punch. Those are probably my two favorite drinks on the menu. Is there any food you’d recommend as perfect bar food? All of our food is absolutely fabulous. Our buffalo chicken egg roll—well, both of our egg rolls actu-
ally—the buffalo chicken and the cheesesteak egg rolls. Our nachos have both melted cheese sauce and baked cheese on them, so they are incredible as well. Our Chesapeake Chicken Sandwich is one of my favorites. What’s on that? That’s either breaded or fried chicken with lump crab imperial mix on top and bacon. Can you tell me a little about the vibe prior to COVID and how it is now? Yeah, it’s been strange. It’s a lot different than it was but we still have live entertainment almost every night, whether it’s bingo on Monday or a DJ on a Tuesday or Friday. And there’s live music on Saturday and Sunday. We still do all that stuff—it’s just a bit of a different vibe for sure. It sounds like you guys are managing better than some other places. Oh, absolutely. The owner of Barnaby’s is always doing more to bring people in and make people feel comfortable. I think that we’ve managed that really well. photo ERIK WEBER @westchesterviews interview DANIELLE @thewcpress
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Breakfast of Champions The most important meal of the day can also be the most delicious way to start it. I’d like to think that if Cheers were a breakfast spot instead of a bar, Penn’s Table would be the Cheers of West Chester. Owner Chris Lucas has seen firsthand that when you create an environment where people feel comfortable, valued— even loved—your patrons respond in turn when times get tough. Penn’s Table has been a staple on the corner of Church and Gay Streets since 1976, and when Chris bought it four years ago, he wisely implemented changes very slowly. It worked. Regulars have shown up in an incredible way since March, moved by Chris’s philanthropic heart. He made it publicly known that should a child or family struggle to put food on the table, he’d make sure they’d get a solid meal from him, no questions asked. He partnered with The Hicks Foundation, feed-
ing 3,200+ kids throughout Chester and Delaware Counties over the course of six weeks. Charitable endeavors aside, Chris took the quiet months of the COVID-19 quarantine to revise the ambiance in this historical locale. New flooring, light fixtures, paint, and wall decor updated the aesthetic as well as the seating; Penn’s Table can finally, after all these years, accommodate parties of six or eight. Chris encourages diners to BYOB any time of the day, including after 4:00 pm when the space can be rented out for events. In 2021 Chris hopes to expand the (preCOVID) burgeoning catering part of the business; the commercial kitchen is run out of the basement and has contracts with multiple borough banks and businesses. He’s awaiting a grant to open a walk-up takeout window, and plans are in the works for a bi-monthly, prix-fixe dinner. Chris puts all his focus on fresh food at affordable prices. All sauces are made in house—even the stocks for their famous soups are slow simmered in the kitchen. Chris has been in the restaurant business for a long time now and he knows that forward thinking, attention to detail and using
the freshest ingredients is a recipe for success. As for breakfast: the French toast, a patron favorite, is made using a cinnamon swirl brioche, and each perfectly pillowy piece somehow tastes substantially filling yet light as air. If I were to go the savory route, the classic Eggs Benedict with homemade hollandaise is absolutely mouthwatering, but if you’re feeling a little wild, try the Mexican Benedict. With homemade salsa and pickled jalapeños on top, it’s the classic with a twist you didn’t know you needed. Not sold yet? Every eggs order comes with a generous portion of the crunchiest russet hash browns you’ve ever tasted. The avocado toast is a new breakfast hit—but the lunchtime soups have been a favorite for decades, a trend started by the previous owners that Chris continued without missing a beat. West Chester offers an excellent array of choices when it comes to breakfast, but if you want to go somewhere that “everybody knows your name,” Penn’s Table is the spot for you. photo & story BECCA @homebeccanomics
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Savor a Slice There’s no such thing as a bad pizza, but that doesn’t mean some aren’t a cut above.
America’s Pie My Blue Heaven White pizza, mozzarella, sharp provolone, grilled chicken, roasted peppers and prosciutto topped with arugula, cherry tomatoes and balsamic reduction.
photos ERIK WEBER @westchesterviews
Brothers Pizza & Pasta CBR Brothers’ take on the classic combo of Chicken, Bacon & Ranch comes absolutely slathered in mozzarella and is made with diced chicken fingers.
Las Vegas Pizza White Las Vegas Pizza has stood the test of time in WC, and the reason is pizzas like this slice of classic white that’s topped with diced broccoli.
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On a Roll Sampling all of the borough’s best foods served between slices of bread It was a drizzly, chilly Friday when I called over to Brothers Pizza at 670 Downingtown Pike about dinner, hankering for something toasty and comforting to mitigate the grey dampness of the day. Lauren Berger took my call and didn’t miss a beat when I asked for something especially delicious: Mom’s Favorite, named in honor of owners Mike and Bill DelVescovo’s mother, Ann. When I arrived to pick up my order at 5:30pm, Brothers was hopping. Delivery drivers zipped in and out of the restaurant balancing towers of pizzas. A socially distanced line of customers awaiting orders snaked around to the parking lot; a table set up nearby offered contactless credit card receipt signing. A gas heater warmed the air. Takeout has been in high demand since the start of the pandemic, and with the already-small dining room now
accommodating less than 50% capacity, the Brothers’ crew rushed to create a welcoming outdoor space for takeout order lines. Mom’s Favorite features grilled chicken, homemade fresh mozzarella, spinach, and roasted red peppers, all of Mom Delvescovo’s favorite ingredients. Rather than the traditional hoagie roll, the ingredients are nestled into a chunk of seeded Italian bread cut from loaves sourced from a Philly bakery. The pièce de résistance, however, is the dressing, which is made from scratch by Lauren and drizzled on the roll before piling on the rest of the ingredients. “I don’t want to sound cliché,” says Mike, “But people really do come from far and wide for this dressing.” The secret recipe is part of the Delvescovo family tradition. “We’ve been here for over 25 years,” says Mike, “And we’ve been making it since long before that.” In addition to Mom’s Favorite, the dressing adorns most of their salads. They also sell bottles of it. Mike sent one home with me. I have some type of leafy green salad alongside almost everything I eat. The night I brought home our sandwiches
from Brothers, I massaged a few tablespoons of the dressing into thinly sliced kale, splashed on a little seasoned rice vinegar, and added a handful of walnuts and dried cranberries. Everyone at the table went for seconds…of KALE SALAD. The next day I made pasta salad and used the dressing for the marinade, and it was similarly delightful. It’s been two weeks and I’m nearly out—and when I return, I’m buying more than one bottle. The development Mike is most excited about is their food truck, slated to roll out the first week of November. Mike and his brother, Bill, have been serving up their signature flavors since 1991, and the food truck is the latest way to bring their offerings to the community. “Our customers have been great through all of this,” says Mike. “A lot of people are ordering online now, the same stuff they always have. Our curbside and delivery services have been very popular. The food truck will be another way to connect with our customers.” photo ERIK WEBER @westchesterviews interview JESSE @jessepiersol
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Open Tables How These West Chester Favorites Keep Moving Forward Saturday, March 14, 2020: I walked down an eerily deserted High Street at lunchtime on my way to Pietro’s Prime for a (delicious) prime rib sandwich to write about for the latest issue of this magazine. I had originally planned to make my visit the following week, but I had a sinking feeling that if I didn’t get in there that day, I might lose my window of opportunity altogether. Sure enough, we plunged into lockdown two days later. The sandwich with side of sautéed spinach that Gabriel brought over to me at the quiet bar that afternoon was the last meal I’ve eaten inside a restaurant to date. Collectively and individually, we have been through quite a bit in the last nine months. A lot has changed, and restaurants have gotten creative in order to
keep their businesses open and their customers fed. We checked in with three spots in town to see how they’ve adapted their spaces and their practices so they can keep doing what they do best.
Roots Café 133 E. Gay St.
Indoor and outdoor dining and takeout Wednesday through Sunday 10am to 3pm An extra dose of magic infuses the air at Roots Café these days, a mood that co-owner and chef Dan Merola attributes to a renewed sense of camaraderie and enthusiasm. “Everyone has been through a lot, customers and our staff, so it just means a whole lot to us to see happy faces in Roots,” he says. “The vibe is better, even if the numbers may not be quite the same, and that just makes it more fun.” When the initial shutdown occurred back in March, Roots closed indefinitely. But Dan and co-owner and fellow chef JT Hearn didn’t stop working; they dove into projects to make Roots even better
They completely revamped the garden and outdoor patio seating area, which included digging and leveling out a 20’x 7’ slope and building benches, tables, and an outdoor bar... after the lockdown was lifted. “Between then and June 26th, when we went into green phase, we did some light takeout,” Dan recalls, “But really, we utilized the quarantine period to focus on improving our overall guest experience.” “We did some good ol’ blue collar work,” he continues. They completely revamped the garden and outdoor patio seating area, which included digging and leveling out a 20’x 7’ slope and building benches, tables, and an outdoor bar; laying a ton or two of stone; painting and staining; gardening; decorating. “I gained a whole new perspective and respect for men and women who do manual labor on a daily basis,” he reflects. Their efforts are already paying off. “Since the remodel, we’ve been getting lots of calls from guests to utilize
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that space for private events and we are proud that we designed a space where people want to enjoy their weddings, birthdays, and baby showers.” Dan is looking forward to offering dinner again soon. “Expect something different than our typical dinner,” he teases. “We want to offer an experience that you can’t find anywhere else in West Chester.” Roots will offer Thanksgiving sides for pickup, with details announced on their Facebook and Instagram accounts. Eat This Right Now:Hot Chicken Sandwich
“We are still touting our Hot Chicken Sandwich as a must-try,” says Dan. “Taste did such a good job covering it in the last issue that people haven’t stopped ordering them!”
To accommodate 50% capacity, Spence only seats every other table in the main dining room... For customers who only want to sit outside, Andy places a heater next to their table. 18
The Original Spence Café 131 N. High St.
Family-style dinners for curbside pickup Wednesday through Saturday. Dining inside Wednesday through Saturday 5 to 9pm by reservation only “People kind of save us for Saturday nights since we’re a little nicer,” says Spence Café’s owner and chef Andy Patten. “Especially dining inside. We can’t really compete with the pizza places.” To accommodate 50% capacity, Spence only seats every other table in the main dining room. In their larger room off the patio, Andy says that they’ll throw open the big French doors on warmer evenings, “making it like a covered outdoor space.” He finds that people are still cautious when dining inside, but those who come in are glad to be there. “When a four or six-top comes in, they are so happy to be out. Maybe they haven’t seen the people they’re with in awhile,” he explains. “They’re definitely into going out and having a whole dining out experience.” For customers who only want to sit outside, Andy places a heater next to their table.
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It’s been tough. After closing for about a week at the beginning of the lockdown, Spence reopened for takeout. Family-style meals focused on comfort food, consisting of a choice of entree and a salad for two to three people took off. Soon, they’ll be expanding with options to add soup and dessert, too. “Takeout was the great equalizer,” says Andy. “It gave us the ability to make some money and also turn over some food. It’s been so hard knowing how much to order. We’ve never thrown out so much stuff. Especially in the summer—it’s not like you can make soup out of all the unused ingredients.” But it IS soup season now, and Andy and chef Blaise Labick are busy planning their fall favorites. Butternut squash soup has recently overtaken mushroom soup as the most popular choice. “Split pea was a big hit a couple of weeks ago when the weather cooled down. We like to offer four or five types, with a chili in there. We’ll have a vegetarian chili like white bean, along with chicken or turkey chili. Hearty flavors like beef stew made with our short rib meat.”
Eat This Right Now: Short Rib Lasagna
Spence’s short ribs are legendary, and for the winter, Andy is building a lasagna that features the meat for the ultimate comfort food.
Barnaby’s 15 S. High St.
Open daily 11am to 11pm “We were really hoping to get through St. Patrick’s Day,” recalls Barnaby’s Manager Jill Devico. Then everything shut down on March 15th, dashing any shamrock-colored dreams of the annual celebration. Barnaby’s didn’t waste a moment, though. They added additional tables to their patio and bar areas. “Everybody was more comfortable sitting outside, at least initially,” says Jill. “We lucked out because we had our big back patio, while lots of other places have limited outside seating.” Focusing on takeout food was critical in those early weeks, with customers craving their egg rolls, South Philly roast pork sandwiches, and burgers. Another success over the summer was adult slushies, available as to-go cocktails became a staple. Barnaby’s is ready for winter, with heat lamps on the way to keep the cold at bay outside on the patio. “Our tent is heated too, so it stays nice and cozy,” she says. Barnaby’s still has entertainment every night of the week, too, with offerings like music bingo on Mondays, quizzo on Wednesdays, and regular acoustic nights and DJs. “Normally people come to Barnaby’s because it’s full, with music everywhere and people dancing upstairs,” Jill notes. “We might not be able to do that right now, but it’s become a great place to sit at a table, enjoy conversation and drinks, and focus on our food.” Eat This Right Now: Egg Rolls
Barnaby’s egg rolls are available for takeout, party trays, and dining in. Rolled fresh by hand, the buffalo chicken variety has a mild kick and is stuffed with chipped chicken, cheese, hot sauce, and onion and then deep fried. Ditto for the cheese steak version, swapping in chipped steak and cherry peppers. photo ERIK WEBER @westchesterviews interview JESSE @jessepiersol
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