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FOOD & DRINK
THE WEST END NEWS | APRIL 2020
THE PORTLAND PALATE
KING OF THE ROLL
For my main, I combined two appetizers: shrimp and vegetable tempura, and the California roll sushi maki. The classic roll came in six bite-sized sections, served with thin-sliced ginger, and a fiery wasabi paste on the side. The tempura medley included carrot, broccoli, asparagus, zucchini and onion atop a bed of cabbage. Battered shrimp and veggies alike were not at all greasy and were melt-in-your-mouth light. Jon’s Bento Box included the same delicious tempura combination alongside a demi salad with tangy-sweet dressing, white rice, standard-good beef teriyaki, and fresh orange slices. Miso also came with the Bento, but he passed on it, as did I, as we’re both rarely interested in the soybean-based, salty soup.
675 Congress Street, Portland | 207-828-8880 Review and Photos by James Fereira
There is no doubt that Portland’s food scene has encountered an explosion of mostly excellent Asian restaurants over the past decade or so. Many of them are chef-owned and have evolved as a by-product of our city’s growing diversity and fortune in attracting some of the world’s best culinary talent.
To simplify, Sushi is a prepared vinegared rice dish accompanied by a variety of ingredients, which can be either raw or cooked. By contrast, Sashimi is fresh raw fish or meat, eaten with soy sauce. For the longest time I got them backward, and to this day I routinely have to brush-up on my terminology.
I’ve noticed that the majority of these FOOD & DRINK now offer menu selections from a growWe initially waited for longer than ing variety of Asian cultures. Whether it’s a twist on a traditional Pad Thai or a com- necessary to place our order, given that pletely new dish created by merging dispa- we were the only customers in the dining room.We each ordered wine: for Jon, a Pirate parts, ‘Asian fusion’ has arrived. not Noir and for me a Pinot Grigio. I asked So is the case at King of the Roll, an for our server to deliver mine before the often walked-passed but under-reviewed apps came up, which didn’t happen. restaurant located in Longfellow Square. We asked for American flatware rathOpened in 2005, there seems little is known about its chef-owner, John, except er than chopsticks, which we are admitthat he’s friendly, and most always on- tedly inept at mastering. They arrived in site, according to a handful of regular fans time for us to get cracking on our startwho’ve written reviews.They extol his skill ers: grilled mussels topped with crabmeat and food with near unwavering adoration, and Kani Sunomono (seasoned crab meat and it’s easy to see why. While the exten- tossed with sliced cucumber). The latter sive menu is largely Japanese, with a focus was refreshing and light, with just the right on Sushi, it is also more straight-forward touch of vinegar and salt [below, left]. than those of many of his competitors. I have been to King of the Roll many times and have personally never had anything less than a satisfying meal.
TO SUSHI OR SASHIMI On this visit, friend Jon and I wandered-in for an early dinner on a quiet February weekday. He had never been and admitted that he was mostly unfamiliar with Japanese cuisine, not that I am anything even close to an expert. Discerning the difference between a Donburi and a Kare is an esoteric challenge, especially when I still get confused about how Sushi is different from Sashimi.
ATMOSPHERE & SERVICE In atmosphere, King of the Roll is colorfully decorated, and tea candles embellish the tables and nicely lit dining room. The light-hearted ping of traditional Japanese music played discreetly overhead. In warmer months, there’s a patio open on the State Street side of the restaurant. It’s always great to be able to sit outdoors, though the downside are the smokers, and exhaust fumes, and noise from the incessant traffic careening up the hill in a mad dash to beat the light. Plus, I always feel conspicuous (and a bit guilty for my privilege) given the presence of penurious locals peering inquisitively over the wall.
King of the Roll California Roll (above), and Bento Box with shrimp and vegetable tempura, rice, beef teriyaki, orange slices and salad (below).
WE’LL BE RETURNING We were brought lychee and strawberry-flavored candies as breath mints along with the $56.00 check. This did not include gratuity, but seemed to be a reasonable price, especially as we saw that one of the appetizers had been omitted from the bill.
I will definitely return another time, We had two servers attending our and I think Jon liked it well enough that he front window booth along Congress would also. Street. An older woman who greeted us, King of the Roll holds its own in Longtook our order, delivered the tab, was perfunctory by all accounts, and never broke fellow Square and among the myriad Asian a smile. More amicable was a younger restaurants both on- and off-peninsula. woman who served our dishes, cleared Main dining room and patio are wheelthem, and refilled our water glasses. Al- chair accessible. It is located on Congress together service on this visit was good, Street METRO bus routes. Parking is on though empty plates which ought to have the street, and it’s a short walk from many We thought the mussels [above, right], been cleared weren’t for a period. West End locations. two of them served warm over shredded cabbage and nicely crafted with sesame, James Fereira has a background in public speaking, ten pin bowling, and scallion and roe, paled in comparison. The writing poetry. In his spare time, he enjoys having a good cry and questioning flavors just didn’t come together, and we authority. agreed, it wasn’t worth the price tag given James can be reached at ThePortlandPalate@gmail.com. the taste and amuse-bouche portion.
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