MALTA

Whether you want to explore UNESCO ruins or sample Maltese cuisine in the sun, two days is enough to get a taste of this Mediterranean isle, says Sarah Riches

Tantalising glimpses of fishing villages and hilltop towns in buttermilk hues peek between cirrus clouds as you land on Malta, 80km south of Sicily.

A trio of islands – Malta, Gozo and Comino – the Maltese archipelago has been inhabited since the Neolithic period, 6,000 years ago.

Conquered by the Arabs in AD 870, the region fell under Sicilian then French rule, before the British took control in the 1800s.

Malta gained independence in 1964 and while it’s now part of the EU, its chequered history is palpable – from its Arab-inspired language to its Sicilian-style kannoli pastries. As for the British influence? Well, if you hire a car, remember to drive on the left.

Day 1

Small but mighty, it only takes 20 minutes to stroll around the capital, Valletta, but when it comes to ambience and historical attractions the city packs a punch.

Prized for its 320 monuments, the walled city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A 42m dome crowns the Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, which is perched on a hill, making it the city’s tallest building – and a good place to begin your self-guided tour.

The Grandmaster’s Palace is nearby. Once the home of the Knights of St John – a community of monks who defended Malta against Ottoman Turks in the 1500s – it is now the Maltese president’s residence. Its state rooms and marble hallways are lined with fine art, armour and trompe l’œil paintings. After a pitstop in the courtyard, continue one street west to St John’s Cathedral. This 16th-century place of worship is valued for its ornate Baroque interiors, which feature three-dimensional frescoes, limestone carvings and marble tombs.

Ready for lunch?

Then pop into Is-Suq Tal-Belt, a grand food hall in a restored Victorian building, to sample Malta’s national dish: stewed rabbit.

After your meal make time to see two UNESCO World Heritage Sites on Valletta’s outskirts. The Hal Saflieni Hypogeum catacombs in Paola, carved into limestone around 2,500 BC, house 7,000 bodies, so it’s hard to believe they were only discovered in 1902. The nearby Tarxien Temples, unearthed in 1913, may be older – it’s thought that their bas-relief sculptures date back to 3,600 BC.

If you want a break from history, sign up to a tile workshop with Art Classes Malta in Marsa. Learn about Maltese tiles as you design a coaster made from plaster or cement, apply it to a mould then paint it with acrylic.

Once you’ve finished your masterpiece, celebrate with a glass of white, red and rose on a tasting tour of Marsovin Cellars, also in Marsa.

Cheese and olives won’t fill you up, so return to Valletta for dinner at

Day 2

The Harbour Club, a fine-dining Mediterranean restaurant in a converted ice warehouse. After your meal, meander through Upper Barrakka Gardens to the waterfront, which is lined with alfresco restaurants.

On your second day on the island, hop on the 51 bus from Valletta and wind through terraced fields blooming with poppies, anemones and borage to Mdina, in the middle of the island.

Above: Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum in Mdina is a treasure trove of antiques and art

Left: Try one of Malta’s delicious kannoli pastries

Below: Stroll through Upper Barrakka Gardens

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mdina existed in the Bronze Age, although much of it was constructed in the 1600s.

A Baroque gate grants access to the fortified hilltop town. Once inside, spend a morning ambling around its winding streets, which are flanked by grand buildings, including the 18th-century Vilhena Palace, a former hospital housing a natural history museum.

However, it’s St Paul’s Cathedral that most visitors come to see. Founded in the 12th century, the current building – with its twin clock towers – was constructed in the early 1700s. Along with frescoes and marble columns, a painting of a shipwreck tells the tale of how the saint allegedly arrived on the island.

If you like fine art, visit Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum next for a glimpse into the life of an aristocrat. Once you’ve explored this former private residence, amble around the courtyard and stop for a spot of lunch in its rooftop café. If that’s full, you can request a table upstairs at Fontanella Tea Garden, which has countryside views.

From Mdina you can stroll to Rabat, a tangle of limestone alleyways bursting with bougainvillea. While away an afternoon dipping in and out of historic sites and discover Roman mosaics in Domus Romana and antique furniture in Casa Bernard, a 16th-century family home inside a mediaeval watchtower. Don’t miss St Paul’s Catacombs, a vast underground network of Roman tombs used between AD 200 and AD 700.

Alternatively, after lunch return to Valletta and treat yourself to a sunset cruise with Malta Sailing Experiences and paddleboard as the sky turns rose pink. Take your own food and wine or request Maltese dishes such as stuffed artichokes, lampuka (fish) and octopus stew to enjoy as you sail from Marsamxett Harbour to the fortified cities of Cospicua, Vittoriosa and Senglea – a memorable way to end your time on Malta.

Sarah Riches Twitter: @healthy_holiday

For more information about Malta visit www.visitmalta.com/en