Thirst Magazine Issue 2 by Thirstmag

INSIDE

ALL ABOUT HOPS

EXCLUSIVE

Meet Five

AMAZING WOMEN IN THE DRINKS INDUSTRY

MALAYSIAN FOOD AND

BEER PAIRING WORLD OF WHISK(E)Y

T R AV E L

KAMPAI JAPAN

TEA FUN FACTS COVER_Issue 2.indd 1

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JUNE 2017

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CONTENTS ISSUE 02 JUNE 2017

8 EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOTE 10 RECOMMENDED Books and a documentary 15

11 CONTRIBUTORS 12 THINGS WE LIKE 13 TRENDING 14 NEW BOOZE & UPCOMING CRAFT BEER EVENTS 15 ALL ABOUT HOPS The one raw ingredient that has been the reason for the popularity of IPA style beers. 18 MODERN BEER HOP TRENDS 20 CRAFT BEER THAILAND Hear how homegrown Thai craft beer brewers battle for changes on laws to sell their brews. 23 WOMEN IN THE INDUSTRY 24 LAN-XIN FOO Warpigs Brewpub, Copenhagen 28 WINNIE HSU JUO WEI Taihu Brewery, Tapei 32 KAORI OSHITA Minoh Brewery, Osaka 35 MARINE LUCCHINI Chalong Bay, Phuket 39 EILING LIM Independent Bottler, Belgium

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CONTENTS ISSUE 02 JUNE 2017

42 BEER PLACES Craft beer places and most popular beer bars in Klang Valley.

44 THE SIMILARITIES AND DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MAKING BEER AND WHISKY Infographic. 46 LOCAL FOOD AND CRAFT BEER PAIRING Four dishes, five beers. 49 THE WORLD OF WHISK(E)Y Where in the world are whiskies being produced? 52 WHISKY PLACES IN MALAYSIA Whisky establishments with people who know about whiskies. 54 WHISKY TREND What are brands doing to fulfil the increasing demand for the golden liquid. 56 TEA FUN FACTS 58 KAMPAI JAPAN Visit Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka for their love of local craft beers. Also, tips on yearly whisky event and where to shop for exclusive bottlings. 61 WHISKY BACON RECIPE 62 BEER IMPORTER’S MEMOIR

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COCKTAILS MIX YOUR OWN COCKTAILS WITH PROFESSIONALLY PREPARED RECIPES USING OUR ONLINE STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE.

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EDITOR’S NOTE ISSUE 02 JUNE 2017

CREDITS KIM CHOONG Founder/Editor

MENG-CHAO Sub-Editor

With the rise of the craft beer scene in Malaysia and around the region, and more women getting into the drinks business, we decided to combine the two. We also notice that beer drinkers normally have a nose for whiskies, so the latter covers quite some pages in this issue as well. We got in touch with Lan-Xin Foo (p.24), the Singaporean Assistant Brewer at arguably the best collaboration brewpub – Warpigs in Copenhagen; visited Winnie Hsu (p.28), the most recognised brewer in Taiwan who has already won numerous awards for the barely year old Taihu Brewery; and flew to Osaka to meet Kaori Oshita (p.32), the eldest of the three sisters who run the legendary Minoh Brewery. We also met with Marine Lucchini from Chalong Bay who has changed the Thai’s perception on the quality of local spirits, and also our very own independent bottler, the Ipoh-born Eiling Lim (p.39) who aims to give Malaysian whisky drinkers more unique alternatives. In the travel section, Kampai Japan (p58) features drinking places in three cities that shouldn’t be missed for their characters and meticulous service. Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka are all quite different in their vibe and people, except all share the one love and great passion for local craft beers. We talk about hops (p.15), the most important ingredient that makes IPA unique and the trends (p18) surrounding this raw material that gives our beer the aroma and flavour. On the same level, we explore the world of whisky (p.49) and the trends (p.52) that are in place to fulfil the increasing demand from whisky drinkers. Don’t miss out a heartfelt sharing by Malaysian craft beer importer, Alvin Lim (p.62) on taxes and containers. We also invited a few professionals in the craft beer industry for a session of pairing beer with Malaysian food, go check out how your favourite dish did on p.46. Lastly, do sign up to our newly formed Thirst Club. We will have discounts and exclusive events with our affiliates and you don’t want to miss them. Tell us where you’d like to visit and we’ll see what we can do with getting you a special deal. Write to us at editor@thirstmag.com.

Cheers!

KIM CHOONG

Editor-in-chief

KOK HIN Designer

MEI LING Web Programmer

KIM CHOONG Photographer Contributors

ALVIN LIM, BETH FIELDS, BRIAN BARTUSCH, FLAVIA GALEOTTI, AD HARTLEY, JULIAN HEALEY, KD HUGGINS, MATTHEW FERGUSSON-STEWART Printers

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NEW BOOZE Vantguard Global Brand Ambassador Jorge Balbontin introduced some innovative cocktail creations using Gin Mare and Capucana Cachaça. Read the interview with Jorge on thirstmag.com.

Global Rum Ambassador Ian Burrell paid KL a visit during the launch of Diplomatico Mantuano and did a guest shift in JungleBird, the new rum bar in Plaza Damansara. Read his interview on thirstmag.com.

DIPLOMATICO MANTUANO 40% ABV Venezuelan blended rum aged for up to eight years in white oak casks previously used to age bourbons and malt-whisky. It combines Column, Batch Kettle and Pot Still distillates from sugar cane molasses and honeys. PINA COLADA 50ml Diplomatico Mantuano 50ml fresh pineapple juice 20ml cream of coconut 20ml Joseph Cartron Cocody 10ml lime juice 3 triangle chunks of pineapple 1 scoop of ice Pinch of salt

Blend all a thick. Recipe by JungleBird team. Distributed by Wholly Spirits in Malaysia.

GIN MARE 42.7% ABV

CAPUCANA CACHAÇA 42% ABV

The premium barley base spirit is made using botanicals from the Mediterranean such as Arbequina olives, Greek thyme, Italian basil, Turkish rosemary and Spanish citrus.

Fresh sugar cane juice distilled and perfected in American oak bourbon barrels once used to age a peaty malt whisky. It is a blend of three-year-old and cachaça plata.

TRIPLE ORANGE G&T

40ml Capucana Cachaça 50 ml fresh coconut water 30 ml condensed milk 10 ml Kahlua 1/4 fresh banana 1 scoop of ice

50 ml. Gin Mare 200 ml. Premium tonic (ideally 1724 TW) 1 tbs bitter orange jam 5 drops orange bitters 1 orange wheel

1. P ut in jam, orange, bitters and gin. 2. Add ice and tonic. 3. Decorate with an orange wheel.

DIRTY BANANA BATIDA

1. Blend everything. 2. P our in Asian inspired “ke bungkus” bag. Both distributed by Ibero Deli Sdn. Bhd.

UPCOMING CRAFT BEER EVENTS 3 June 2017

17th & 18th August 2017

A fundraising event that gathers 7 local microbreweries with tastings, food and music. Organised by Craft Brewers Association of Cambodia. $25 per person. Find them on Facebook event page.

For professionals in the brewing community from brewery operations, distribution, sales and marketing, this conference allows you to network and meet people in the industry who will share their experiences and innovations in the craft beer business. Register online at www.sea-brew.com.

2ND ANNUAL CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL (CAMBODIA)

The Exchange Restaurant & Bar – The Exchange Buuilding, #28 St 47 (France St), Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

SEA BREW

Saigon Prince Hotel - 63 Nguyen Hue Boulevard District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

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CONTRIBUTORS BRIAN BARTUSCH

ALVIN LIM

Alvin Lim is one of five partners who operates two Taps Beer Bars, dedicated to serving craft beers from around the world, and MyBeer (M) Sdn Bhd, which imports and distributes craft beers in Malaysia. Apart from these, they also manage Takumi Craft Bar at Isetan The Japan Store in Lot 10. They have been in the business for 5 years now and are at the forefront of driving the craft beer revolution forward. While craft beer is still relatively new in Malaysia, they hope that Malaysians will continue to embrace and care about the quality of beers that they drink. alvinlimsh

Brian Bartusch is a cofounder of Beervana, the first craft beer importer to Thailand; an accomplished home brewer and beer judge in several international competitions. He has completed the Professional Beer Styles and Tasting course at the Siebel institute, is a trained Cicerone Beer Guide and a Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) entry-level judge. He is most likely sipping a beer right now in one of Bangkok’s finer drinking establishments. brian.bartusch

MATTHEW FERGUSSON-STEWART JULIAN HEALEY

Julian Healey is a journalist turned marketing consultant, author and entrepreneur. Venturing from his home in Melbourne, the craft beer capital of Australia, Julian has travelled to four continents conversing with brewers and hop farmers about their craft. Founder of Hopslist.com, Julian launched the online resource in 2014 enabling brewers easy and free access to a central database of hops information. Driven by a newfound passion for the industry, he continues his research and has recently authored his first book on hops. It’s his intention to continue traveling and learning about the everevolving role hops play in the global craft brewing industry. julian.healey

Matthew FergussonStewart is William Grant & Sons’ Asia Pacific Brand Ambassador and a veteran of the whisky industry. The native Western Australian first encountered whisky when he studied chemistry at the University of Western Australia (UWA) in Perth. A love for single malts eventually led him to name his first born daughter ‘Islay’. Matthew has spent the last decade honing his thirst for the whisky craft, including being the State Manager of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society in Western Australia, the creator and Director of Stewart’s Whisky Consultancy in Singapore, managed The Auld Alliance which houses Southeast Asia’s largest whisky selection, and created an interactive website to help aficionados select their preferred single malt. He is also the author of two authoritative and controversial papers on chill-filtration, published by Malt Maniacs. son.of.whisky

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THINGS WE LIKE THE TEA ROOM CHOCOLATE & TEA COMPANY LAPSANG SOUCHONG CHOCOLATE BAR

60% cacao infused with the pine-smoked tea and Himalayan salt for balance. The chocolate bar is verified organic by USDA and produced in California. USD3.29 per 1.8oz bar, or 5 for USD15.00 on tea-room.stores.yahoo.net

RIVER DRIVE COOPERAGE WHISKEY BARREL BOTTLE OPENER

This bottle opener is made from a retired American Bourbon White Oak Barrel. You’re basically holding a piece of history whenever opening a bottle. 5”L x 1”W x 1”T RM40.40 from Etsy.com

SCHMALTZ BREWING STAR TREK KLINGON IMPERIAL PORTER

At 7.3%ABV, the 50th anniversary limited release by Shmaltz Brewing Company was created to pay homage to the warriors in the Star Trek galaxy, where honour means everything to the species. Qapla! Sold out – Watch shmaltzbrewing.com for the next release.

SPIEGELAU STOUT GLASS JELLY BELLY COCKTAIL CLASSICS JELLY BEANS Taste the classics without the alcohol. The chewy jelly beans are free of gelatin, peanut, fat and dairy. Comes in 6 flavours: Margarita, Mojito, Peach Bellini, Pina Colada, Pomegranate Cosmo and Strawberry Daiquiri. SGD7 on candyliciousshoponline.com or jellybelly.com/online-candy-store

Produced by the famous German glass company especially for craft beer, the crystal stout glass provides a full experience from nosing to tasting the black stuff. Set of 6 (600ml) at USD30 on eBay.com or various retail shops

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TRENDING INTERACTIVE MOBILE BAR Pinch Food Design, a catering company in New York is elevating the craft cocktail experience by taking it to off-premise events using their mobile bars TWIST. Chef/ designer duo Chef Bob Spiegel and TJ Girard designed the pop-up stations to serve and engage with guests, customising each experience with flavours and interactive activations. They come in Pour Over, Marble Slab, Wine Balloons and Market Cart. The Marble Slab is where a martini is made by pouring vodka or gin along with vermouth down the angled Carrera marble slabs, cascading in grooved channels and flowing into an ice filled bowl to mix and chill — the martini is then dispensed from a spout connected to the marble bowl. www.pinchfooddesign.com

AN ITALIAN AFFAIR The classic Italian 3-wheeled Piaggio Ape vans are converted into mobile bars, serving Peroni Nastro Azzurro and kegged Glera Frizzante (called “fizz” as according to Italian law, it can only be called prosecco if served in a glass bottle less than 3 litres) in the UK. The 3.3m length vehicle can fit into small spaces and can serve up to 160 flutes of sparkling wine per keg, making it popular for parties, weddings and even photo shoots. Salute! (www.salutebubblesandbirra.co.uk), Fox & Braces (www.foxandbraces.co.uk) and The Bubble Brothers (www.bubblebros.co.uk) are just a few that provide some beautiful props for events and parties. The latter, an importer of wine and cigars in Cork, Ireland, even converted a 1969 motorbike and sidecar into a mobile bar. They serve Glera Frizzante from the taps and their own Bubble Bros Pale Ale by the bottles.

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RECOMMENDED

What we have on our book shelves (and TV screens) right now. By Flavia Galeotti BREWED IN JAPAN: THE EVOLUTION OF THE JAPANESE BEER INDUSTRY BY JEFFREY W. ALEXANDER (2013) History professor Jeffrey Alexander writes the first English exploration of the steady rise of beer in Japan. Over 300 pages Alexander documents how Japanese brewers adopted the liquid into their culture over a few generations, beginning with the start of brewing in the country, challenges faced during World War II, and the situation postwar with the emergence of craft beer and innovative beer-like products. An academic read, but greatly interesting to Japanophiles and industry professionals alike.

TASTING WHISKEY: AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO THE UNIQUE PLEASURES OF THE WORLD’S FINEST SPIRITS BY LEW BRYSON (2014) Lew Bryson – who has been writing about beers and spirits since 1995 – shares in this book everything there is to know about the world’s greatest whiskies. Covering everything from Scotch, bourbon, Irish, Japanese, and even Canadian whisk(e)y, this is a comprehensive guide on how to collect, age, and serve the amber liquid.

BEER, FOOD, AND FLAVOR : A GUIDE TO TASTING, PAIRING, AND THE CULTURE OF CRAFT BEER BY SCHUYLER SCHULZ (EXPANDED SECOND EDITION 2015) Learn how to properly taste and describe craft beers, and how to pair them with fine food in this 300 page guide by experienced chef and connoisseur Schuyler Schultz. The book is an exploration into how craft beer and the new American food movement can be integrated together, also bearing in mind local and sustainable production.

THE COMPLETE BEER COURSE BY JOSHUA M. BERNSTEIN (2013) Just as the title suggests, this is a 12-part course that spans the world of beers. It’s an incredibly comprehensive guide that takes you through lagers, pilsners, aromatic pale ales, roasty stouts and so on, in easy-tofollow classes. You’ll also learn how to pair beer with food through suggested tastings, and even start your own beer cellar.

WHISKEY: THE DEFINITIVE WORLD GUIDE BY MICHAEL JACKSON (2017 EDITION) From the famous, late whisk(e)y writer Michael Jackson (not the singer), take a journey across the globe to discover the world of whisk(e)y today. From Scotland to Japan, you’ll learn about the distilleries and the tasting notes of key whiskies, as well as cocktails, food pairings, and proper storage, through this beautifully illustrated guide. Documentary

TSUKIJI WONDERLAND DIRECTED BY NAOTARO ENDO (2016) Here we take a little detour and shine a spotlight on food rather than drink with this 1 hour 51 minute tour through Japan’s famous Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. Filmed over 16 months since March 2014, Endo-san’s first feature film was made for posterity before the market is to be closed and moved from the site in Tokyo to Toyosu in winter 2017 (or so the plan goes) in preparation for the 2020 Olympic Games. It’s an immersive look at the intense and fast-paced life on the floor of what is known as ‘the kitchen of Japan’, where over 12,000 workers and 30,000 customers conduct business over a wide variety of the freshest prime seafood in the world. Focus is placed squarely on the nakaoroshi, the highly skilled intermediate wholesalers who sift through each day’s offerings to find the best products for their chef clients, each one going through their business like a master painter. Enjoy the film with a plate of fresh sashimi and a dram of Japanese whisky for a full sensory experience (minus the crowds).

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ALL ABOUT HOPS A TRULY GREAT BEER STARTS WITH ONE CRUCIAL CONCEPT: ALWAYS USE THE BEST INGREDIENTS POSSIBLE. ONE OF THE INGREDIENTS THAT HAS A HUGE INFLUENCE ON HOW A BEER TASTES IS HOPS. BY KD HUGGINS

ost beer drinkers have heard of hops, and know that it can be found in some of the most popular beers available today, but beyond that, the average beer drinker may not understand the significance this humble little plant has when it comes to their favorite brew.

WHAT ARE “HOPS?”

Hops come from a climbing bine (not to be confused with vines, “bines” climb their supports in a clock-wise fashion, following the progression of the sunlight throughout

the course of a day) that is native to Europe, Asia, and the North American continent. These plants produce small cones that closely resemble the shape of pine cones. It is the oils and resins located at the base of these cones that are used for brewing beer, and for other commercial purposes. The leaves of the hops bine are similar in appearance to grape leaves. The texture of the cones has been described as “paper-like.” Because the hops bine can grow in height to over 20 feet, they require some type of vertical support as they grow, to ensure that adequate air circulation can reach the cones.

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THE HISTORY OF HOPS Hops have been around through history. They have been used in the brewing process for beer for more than 1,000 years. The first known cultivation of hops for the purpose of brewing occurred in Central Asia. Until the end of the 15th century, Britain’s nationally recognized drink was ale (the “unhopped” brew.) As the practice of cultivating hops began to make its way to the Maidstonearea of Kent, England, the British began using hops to preserve beer for shipment on via long ocean voyages. By 1655, ale began to fall out of favor with British citizens, and hops began to be used on purpose to enhance or modify the depth of character and flavor profile of beer. At the beginning of the century, there were only about 12 known varieties of hops available to brewers. Today, the number of available hops varieties has grown by leaps and bounds. There are more than 100 varieties of hops being produced today. The number of varieties continues to grow every year, thanks to the extensive efforts of dedicated breeders, the plant’s resistance to disease and overall crop yields have vastly improved.

WHAT ARE HOPS USED FOR?

Initially, hops were used as a natural preservative to keep beer fresh as it was transported to far-flung destinations. India Pale Ale (IPA) was inadvertently created as a result adding lots of hops to help preserve shipments of beer to India in the 18th century. British citizens living in India accounted

the high demand for fresh beer, to help counteract the heat incurred as a result the local climate. British brew masters began the practice of adding a lot of hops to the beer to help preserve its freshness, drinkability, and quality for the months-long voyage by sea. Once the shipment reached its final destination and was opened, it was discovered that the addition of hops not only kept the beer fresh, it also gave the beer a wonderfully deep flavor profile and pleasant aroma.

HOW HOPS ARE USE IN THE BREWING PROCESS Hops is a bit of an unusual beer-brewing ingredient, in that it possesses a unique ability to add both desired levels of bitterness and balance to the beer. This is due, in part, to the bittering agent contained in the alpha acid resin of the cones of the hops plant. This agent is activated during the boiling stage of brewing beer. Greater amounts of the bittering

THE MAIN CATEGORIES OF BEER-BREWING HOPS By adding different kinds of hops, at varying stages of the boiling process, brew masters can experiment to achieve different and complex hops flavor and aroma profiles for their beer.

BITTERING HOPS

AROMA HOPS

ontains an C average of 10% of alpha acids by weight.

ontains an C average of 5% of alpha acids by weight.

nown as K “Kettle Hops.”

Known as “Finishing Hops.”

dded to the boil A at the beginning of the process and boiled for roughly one hour.

dded at the end of A the boiling process and boiled for roughly 15 minutes

FIRST WORT HOPS he hops are steeped T in hot wort (much like steeping tea in hot water) to release the alpha acid resins and essential oils. his process allows T the oils and resins more time to oxidize and become more water soluble, resulting in the release of greater amounts of the oils and acids in the beer.

FLAVORING HOPS dded halfway through A the boiling process to protect against the over-evaporation of aromatics, while at the same time achieving the desired flavor profile. mall amounts of S different hops can be added 30 minutes before the end of the boiling process to build depth of the beer’s character.

DRY HOPS Added to the fermenter late in the fermentation stage (after it stops bubbling), instead of during the boiling process. This gives the finished beer a more pronounced aroma, without incurring aroma loss due to the carbon dioxide bubbles.

HOP OIL — Concentrated oil extracted and distilled from hops that adds flavour and aroma to the beer during dry-hopping or conditioning.

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agent are released into the beer the longer the resin is subjected to boiling temperatures. The bitterness that hops lends to beer actually helps to counteract the malt sugars, thus creating a balanced amount of sweetness to the final brew.

OTHER KNOWN USES FOR HOPS

While hops are most widely known in modern times for use in brewing beer, research shows that hops have a long and proud pre-brewing history. Hops have been used for hundreds of years in herbal medicine for relaxation, to aid with sleep difficulties, as a digestive aid and for other issues related to the gastrointestinal tract. Traditional Chinese herbal medicine practitioners may use hops as a supplemental treatment for certain cancers. In some cultural societies, hops have even been used as a way to combat Tuberculosis. Hops were used to stuff bedding before commercial mattresses were invented. The flowers have antibacterial properties and are thought to contain some level of anti-viral properties as well. Hops have been used as a source of food, often used in salads by the ancient Romans, and have been used as food for livestock

animals. Hops are actually the flowers of the plant and are considered to be a vegetable. The stalks are high in fiber, which makes them a good food choice, especially when food sources are limited or scarce. The woody stalks can be processed to extract the inner fibers to use for making paper and other textiles. As you can see, hops have a plethora of uses. For the purpose of this article, we will focus on beer-brewing hops.

A BEER TO PLEASE EVERY PALETTE

Thanks to modern day technological innovations, careful breeding practices, the growing popularity and expansion of the craft brewing industry, and a thoughtful examination of beer’s extensive history through the years, there truly is a beer to please everyone’s palette. Hops, along with malts, barley, and other ingredients, are responsible for the almost limitless beer choices we have today. The rising popularity of home-brewed beer has helped to open the craft to the average citizen. Being able to choose, and grow, most of your own beer brewing ingredients ensures that the home brewer will have better opportunities to successfully brew top quality beers they can be proud of.

15 INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT HOPS

1 2

In the 1st century A.D., Hops plants were commonly eaten as a salad.

The word “beer” was originally used to indicate brew that was made without hops, while traditional “ales” were made with malts instead of hops.

Organized hops cultivation started in the 1100’s in what is now modern-day Germany.

Botanicals were used to balance the beer and add desired levels of bitterness to the brews before the widespread cultivation of hops. Botanical brews are called “Gruits.”

5 6

Hops impart antimicrobial properties to beer.

The best places to grow hops for optimum results are in locations situated between the 35th and 55th parallels, in both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.

Washington state, Oregon, and the panhandle of Idaho are collectively responsible for growing nearly 98% of the hops used for beer production in the US. The U.S. Department of Agriculture finances the majority of hops breeding programs.

To date, more than 400 different compounds have been discovered in hops compounds.

According to Brett Porter, Goose Island Brew Master, it takes roughly $68,000 to grow a single acre of hops.

The green glass used to bottle Heineken beer is what is responsible for the sometimes “skunky” aroma of the beer, more commonly associated with hops more famous cousin, Cannabis. It seems that the green glass allows more light to reach the beer. That increased light exposure affects both the taste and aroma of the beer.

Germany is the world’s largest producer of hops, responsible for producing 34,000 metric tons of hops per year. In comparison, the United States produces just slightly over 27,000 metric tons of hops per year. While hops are relatively harmless when fed to livestock, such as chickens, they can cause death to our beloved household pets.

Most hops farms are independently owned and operated family farms. These farmers often contract with local breweries for a period that ranges from 2 to 7 years. This practice helps to protect both the farmers and the breweries, especially during years when there is a high demand for hops in the market.

Not all hops are bitter. There is a variety known as “Noble Hops” that lend a citrus or floral scent to beer and trend on the sweet, not bitter end of the hops scale.

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MODERN

BEER HOP TRENDS

Lupulin is a resinous powder extracted from the female flowers of the hop plant and used as a sedative. – thefreedictionary.com

Alpha acids (α acids) are a class of chemical compounds primarily of importance to the production of beer. They are found in the resin glands of the flowers of the hop plant and are the source of hop bitterness. – Wikipedia

By Julian Healey

n the late 1800’s the world of beer hops really started to get interesting. Around that time, brewers and growers began investigating the active ingredients in hops much more closely leading to the creation of Wye College (closed in 2009), one of the first hop breeding programs ever established. Researchers at Wye College discovered distinct differences between hops grown in different parts of the world. American hops tended to be bold with intense flavours and aromas stemming from increased levels of lupulin. This was in stark contrast to traditional English hops, which were far more subtle, delicate and floral in nature.

HYBRIDS

Armed with this knowledge, researchers at Wye began cross breeding varieties. They created hybrids more resistant to disease, with increased bitterness and cherry picked flavour characteristics and in the process creating vast new prospects for brewers. In the early 1900’s these programs culminated in the creation of varieties like Challenger, Brewers Gold and Northern Brewer. Many of these hops bred at Wye directly enabled the creation of now iconic modern US varieties like Citra and Mosaic.

NEW VARIETIES

As beer markets expanded, breeding programs too began in the United States. There, universities like Oregon State and more recently, Washington and Michigan State

began investing in the study and creation of brand new varieties for the US beer market. Shifting away from the embrace of unique varieties and their natural variations of essential oils, the creation of high alpha varieties has been a focus for growers over the past 100 years. This is in large part driven by the popularity of mass-produced beer styles largely devoid of hop flavours and aromas. Things are changing though. Craft beer is now turning the notion that alpha is king on its head. In the search for more unique flavours and aromas, essential oils are reigning supreme and drinkers can’t get enough.

DEMAND FOR AROMA AND FLAVOUR

Renowned beer expert Stan Hieronymus thinks, on the back of craft beer, hoppiness has undoubtedly made a huge comeback. “Right now there are a significant number of drinkers voting for aroma and flavour. Hops are a big part of satisfying that demand. “Each niche offers an opportunity for further exploration. We’ve got breweries looking for ways to get more fruit and juice (flavours) from hops and those intent

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RIGHT NOW THERE ARE A SIGNIFICANT NUMBER OF DRINKERS VOTING FOR AROMA AND FLAVOUR. HOPS ARE A BIG PART OF SATISFYING THAT DEMAND. on producing beers with a more intense experience.” Growers are achieving this with breeding programs focussed on creating hops with greater levels and unique combinations of essential oils, but it’s a process that often takes more than a decade to bring about commercially viable varieties brewers can use. Despite the inherent difficulty, the emergence of craft beer has heralded an expansion of hop breeding far beyond the borders of Europe and America. Countries like New Zealand, Australia, South Africa and Japan are also creating unique and massively in-demand hops aimed at meeting the industry’s insatiable thirst for variety.

Whole dry hops

Hop pellets

SPOILED FOR CHOICE

Retailers have had to shift their strategy too with stores stocking many more brands than they once did to make the same number of sales. While spoiled for choice, beer consumers can often be left confused about what to buy amid a sea of different styles and brands. For drinkers that aren’t necessarily hop savvy, it’s important to just drink what you like, says Stan.

“You can manage that without knowing anything about the raw material involved. But if you know you like beers enhanced by Nelson Sauvin, then understanding that Hallertau Blanc contains the same sulfur compound might make you think ‘yep’ when you come across a beer made with Blanc. “Familiar is good; understanding why it is familiar is better.”

HOPS ON LABELS

Many craft breweries are now divulging the hop varieties used on their beer labels in an effort to better introduce drinkers to the unique flavours and aromas that modern hops like Galaxy, Citra and Mosaic impart. Stan believes that while more information for the drinker is generally better, with supply uncertainty being a major global issue for brewers, he warns breweries about the dangers of marketing that may back them into a corner. “For a brewer, the potential downside (of identifying a hop) is not being able to get a variety that has then become part of a brand. Plus there will be year-to-year variation with any variety.” Flavour and aroma aside, evolutions in craft beer and hop farming haven’t only been limited to increasing alpha and oil content. Farmers and brewers today are also becoming much more focussed on environmental factors. “Investment in the future is promising. It’s not just about aroma and flavour, but also about sustainability.”

THE HOPS LIST

The world’s most comprehensive beer hop dictionary. Use it to discover new hop flavours and aromas from around the world. The first of its kind, this book is the largest collection of hops information ever compiled. With it readers have access to analytical data, tasting notes, substitutes, style suggestions and more. In addition, there are also insights from brewmasters at some of the world’s most prestigious craft breweries. Deschutes, D.G. Yuengling & Son and Brooklyn Brewery among others reveal some of their favourite varieties as well as tips on how to use them best.

Julian Healey is a freelance marketing consultant to the beer industry and author of The Hops List, a comprehensive guide to 265 varieties of beer hops.

The Hops List is an all-encompassing resource for professional brewers, amateur brewers and craft beer connoisseurs wanting an exhaustive resource on just about every beer hop on the planet. Available as a hard copy from reputable home brew stores in the USA, Europe, New Zealand and Australia and as an eBook from Amazon, iTunes or direct.

www.hopslist.com

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THAILAND’S CRAFT BEER REVOLUTION

Brewski, the first craft beer bar on a hotel rooftop opened this year.

By Brian Bartusch

5 years ago, Thailand was a virtual beer wasteland. Today, international craft beers can be purchased in bars thanks to importers. On the other hand, Thai home grown craft beers brewers are battling for a change on laws to sell their brews.

o you think it’s going to rain?” On this particular Sunday afternoon we’re on a rooftop near the edge of central Bangkok, pondering the dark and cloudy skies. “Even if it does the brewery is covered.” I’m with a local home brewer named Tan. His brewery is a clandestine operation shaded by banana trees and a neighbouring low-rise condo. He’s one of several hundred such outlaw brewers who are currently making small ripples in Thailand’s sea of Big Beer. He’s set out a vast array of illegal local home brews alongside an equally impressive cache of imported craft beer from around the world for us to sample today. We’re doing a bottle share and getting a little tipsy as he brews. He checks the kettle of boiling froth and adds more hops, increasing the bitterness in this rich brown ale. We have a few minutes before the remaining hop additions to reflect on how quickly the beer scene has grown in Thailand, and how much change is still needed. Five years ago the Kingdom was a virtual beer wasteland. Beer markets were dominated by the common local lagers, Singha and Chang, long established and ubiquitous Thai brands. The only variety available was found with a few German, British and Belgian standards. While nothing is wrong with these foamy drops, there was also nothing new or exciting about them. The selections were old and tired

European classics that seem more like museum pieces than fresh brews. Thankfully the drought of beer flavour ended about 5 years ago when a few importers such as Beervana, HopSession and Smiling Mad Dog took the plunge and cut through mountains of paperwork, taxes and regulations to introduce craft beers from around the globe. The floodgates opened and soon a deluge of delicious craft brew was flowing into Bangkok. It didn’t take long before craft-focused bars were popping up all over town. Several new importers followed suit, improving the variety of brews. The delicious flavours and incomparable nuances found in craft beer couldn’t be contained by Bangkok and soon word was out across the Kingdom. Craft was flowing from Chiang Mai to Phuket and everywhere in between. The palates of thousands of locals had awakened and there was no going back. Bars, restaurants and media were soon buzzing about craft beer and the newest quest was for craft on draft. Recently developed ‘oneway’ disposable plastic kegs made it easy to send draft beer overseas without shipping empty steel kegs back. Cold rooms and tap walls were starting to open in bars across town, including tap walls with 40 taps solely devoted to craft beer. A welcome change from just a year before when Hoegaarden and Guinness were the only interesting drafts in any abundance. Yet the full evolution of craft had yet to be realized. It wasn’t long after those first bottles left the port and made their way to beer lovers before many had the thought, ‘Can I make beer

20 t 24, Marine wanted to move to the other side of the world to distil spirits.

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like this myself, here in Thailand?’ With this, the Thai craft beer revolution was born. The laws of Thailand only allow brewing under two types of permits. The first is for commercial brewing with a minimum of 10 million litres of beer per year, and minimum registered capital of 10 million baht. This permit allows for packaging and selling beer off-site. The second is a brewpub-only permit that has a minimum of at least 100,000 litres of beer per year and restricts the brewery from packaging its beer and selling off-site. Local zoning laws are also a factor that combined with the restrictive permits have stifled the growth of craft breweries in Thailand. Thankfully, some early pioneers with a passion for brewing were willing to break these laws. P. Chit is the brewer whom many consider to be the grandfather of Thai craft brewing. He started ‘Chit Beer’ in Pak Kret, a small island in the Chao Phraya River, north of Bangkok. P. Chit was the first Thai citizen to proudly brew and sell his illegal beer as well as host brewing education workshops, which led to the 1st generation of Thai brewers. Many of his students have since taken their passion and recipes abroad to have their beer brewed legally in nearby countries such as Taiwan and Cambodia. Some have travelled as far away as Japan and Australia, mainly looking for high-quality breweries in nations with favourable export agreements to Thailand. One group of Thai brewers went even further by setting up their own brewery in Cambodia, which is now producing the brand Stone Head as well as contract brewing for other Thai brewers. Their beer is then shipped back to Thailand and subject to import and excise taxes. Some brewers consider this an unnecessary and expensive process, instead seeing value in keeping the revenue in the country by building their own breweries right here at home. The rush to get beer on the market has led to a rapid influx of ‘Thai craft’. Many of the beers still aren’t quite world class, however there are a few standouts such as Sandport and Happy New Beer, who have produced brews that compare well to their imported counterparts. It’s only a matter of time before these beers from the first wave of Thai brewers will be considered topshelf suds. The underground and illegal beer scene continues to thrive, despite recent government and police crackdowns. One brewer, Khun Tao,

YOU CAN’T JUST BREW IT IN THE BACK OF A SHOP, IN THE BACK OF YOUR HOUSE, OR IN YOUR TOILET. THERE HAVE TO BE RULES AND REGULATIONS.

Professionally bottled and labelled Thai brews during a home brew competition.

Let The Boy Die sold locally brewed beers and was shut down by the authorities numerous times.

of ‘Taopiphop’s Ale Project’, recently felt the wrath of local laws when the police and the Excise Department raided his brewery/bar in January 2017. His expensive brewing gear was confiscated and he was taken into police custody. Tao was soon released after paying a reduced fine, only to find he had become an overnight celebrity. He has since been interviewed by several national news outlets and the story of his passion for beer and willingness to break the laws for it has made him a nationwide sensation. Even Prime Minister Gen. Prayut Chan-ocha released a statement soon after Tao’s arrest regarding illegal home brew, saying: “You can’t just brew it in the back of a shop, in the back of your house, or in your toilet. There have to be rules and regulations.” Home brewers know sanitation is of utmost importance and would never make beer in a toilet, but the general does have a valid point about rules and regulations. Many countries allow home brewers to make beer, but none allow the legal sales of this beer to consumers. Home brew in Thailand is most often sold to bars and restaurants as well as home consumers without any regulations, taxation, or quality control. This could be why some recent changes in alcohol control laws will increase the penalties for home brewing from less than a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars, along with the real possibility of spending time in jail. The fines for selling and possession of home-brewed beer will be significantly increased as well. But there is hope, and as Tan completes his batch of rooftop brew without rain or police interruption, he knows his exposure is minimal and unless he starts selling his beer, he’ll likely never be caught. The Thai beer scene will continue to flourish with a steady stream of world-class imported brews to inspire the illegal home brewers like Tan and Tao, who plan to take their recipes abroad for contract brewing and ultimately import back to Thailand. Beyond their determination is the undying dream that the leaders of Thailand will change the laws and open up to the vast opportunities in craft brewing that are being lost overseas.

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EVENTS MALAYSIA

Janice Lau from The Pawn Room scored the highest in the Ultimate Bartender Championship by Monkey Shoulder and will proceed to the regional final.

Tan Ze Keng from Berjaya University College of Hospitality will represent Malaysia in the Monin Coffee Creativity Cup 2017 in Seoul this November.

Valrhona Chocolate launched Cuvée Bali 68% and Blond, Orelys 35% at Le Meridien Hotel.

Met some of the best bartenders in Singapore during Whisky Weekend at The Projector.

SINGAPORE

Brewlander cask ales launched at the Real Firkin’ Deal pop up event.

Beer Travelist, a craft beer travel guide was launched at The Projector.

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WOMEN IN THE INDUSTRY 1

2 WINNIE HSU JUO WEI TAIHU BREWING, TAIPEI

KAORI OSHITA AND MAYUKO YAHATA MINOH BREWERY, OSAKA

3 WOMEN_in Industry.indd 23

EILING LIM

MARINE LUCCHINI

LAN-XIN FOO

INDEPENDENT BOTTLER, BELGIUM CHALONG BAY, PHUKET

WARPIGS BREWPUB, COPENHAGEN

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LAN-XIN FOO BREWER ASSISTANT AT WARPIGS, COPENHAGEN

Lan-Xin during Copenhagen Beer Celebration 2016

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20 BEERS ON TAP; 6 HOUSE BEERS AND 14 THAT WILL KEEP ON SURPRISING.

arpigs Brewpub in Copenhagen is a collaboration between Mikkeller in Copenhagen and Three Floyds from Munster, Indiana. The concept is to serve craft beers with the characters of these two breweries and authentic Texan barbecue cuisine. The famous brewpub attracts craft beer lovers from all around the world and serves some quirky recipes that you can’t get anywhere else. Mikkeller was founded by Mikkel Borg Bjergsø and Kristian Klarup Keller in 2006 (Keller has since left the company and is no longer involved). Mikkeller is famously known for their gypsy brewing, creating recipes and producing them at various breweries in several countries. They have also been opening up outlets in different cities to make their brews available. Three Floyds Brewing Co. started in 1996, you just can’t get their highly sought after beers outside of the US and even there, available locations are limited. So you can see how excited craft beer lovers were when they heard about Warpigs. Warpigs is the first Mikkeller collaboration that consists of an onsite brewpub that not only supplies to the restaurant-bar, but also produces bottles to be shipped internationally. Singaporean Lan-Xin Foo represents Mikkeller and is Assistant Brewer in the 2 year-old brewhouse alongside Head Brewer Kyle Wolak from Three Floyds. 4 years ago when Lan-Xin was introduced to the first Mikkeller bar in Copenhagen, she knew she wanted to work there. That dream materialised when Warpigs opened in 2015 and needed one brewer from each side of the partnership. Although LanXin had never brewed professionally, she had attended a 9-month course at the Research and Tech Institute for Brewing in Berlin or VLB (Versuchs- und Lehranstalt fur Brauerei in Berlin e.V.) and most importantly, she brewed

a pretty damn good cream ale that won the competition opened to Mikkeller’s staff a year prior. But the idea of working to make beer was never in the 37-year-old’s career plan when she set off to study in Baltimore 13 years ago.

IT WASN’T SUPPOSED TO BE BEER

Lan-Xin’s father had always wanted one of his children to become an engineer. As the eldest daughter, Lan-Xin was automatically made to study the profession when it was time for her to enter university. Half a year into the course, she knew engineering was not for her because she wanted to be a chef. “I told my parents that becoming a food scientist is kind of like an engineer but in the food segment. Somehow they accepted it and let me go to culinary school.” After graduating in 2004, she stayed on in Baltimore and worked as a product developer for a dietary company. But the job was industrialising food and not actually working with real food. Four years later, she quit the job, sold everything, packed up and went travelling in South America and Asia before returning home. Along the way, she found she was fascinated with gin distilling and started looking at alcohol production. A friend introduced her to James River of Stone Brewery in Vancouver, who had built his brewery from parts bought in auctions as a side hobby while working as a mycologist. When Lan-Xin saw James’ “Frankenstein” brewery, she was captivated by the process of making beer. “The mash smells like really nice porridge,” was how she described it, and she noted how similar the brewing process was to cooking - mixing raw ingredients to create different results every time, much like being a chef. She was hooked and stayed on to learn brewing from James. After two months, Lan-Xin returned home to Singapore, where she would start brewing her own beer at home.

Warpig’s bar

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20 taps in Wapigs on rotation.

The only place to source home-brewing equipment and ingredients in Singapore was iBrew, where owner Raymond Lee offered Lan-Xin the use of his brewing equipment and ingredients for experiments while she helped out in his shop. As her desire to learn to brew professionally grew, she enrolled herself at VLB in Berlin. While in Singapore, Lan-Xin met Sandra who then moved to Berlin with her during her study there. During a vacation to Copenhagen where Sandra had previously lived for 10 years, Lan-Xin went to the original Mikkeller bar where a friend of Sandra’s worked. “Sh*t, I have to work here!” was Lan-Xin’s expression after a drink at the bar. Around the same time, Mikkeller & Friends was opened and Lan-Xin took the chance and applied for a job as a bartender there. In 2013, they moved to Copenhagen. By 2015, Warpigs was opening and LanXin asked to be transferred there. Using her brewing experience and certificate from the school, she applied for the position as Assistant Brewer. When they gave her the job, Sandra thought one of the reasons must be because Lan-Xin had proved herself in the staff home brew competition while she was in Mikkeller & Friends.

LAN-XIN’S RASPBERRY & CREAM

For the competition, Lan-Xin chose to brew a cream ale because she felt that it was a misunderstood style and wanted to present her version of it. She created the ale with taste that’s right up her alley - low alcohol, dry, easy going, but interesting. She then fermented the beer a second time with real raspberry fruit in 2 ways: one just with raspberries and the other to mimic barrelaged beer using oak chips that contributed to the creamy vanilla flavour. The one with oak chips stood out and the deal for the winning beer was 5000 litres would be brewed, kegged and bottled. That beer made Lan-Xin a star in the homebrew community and news travelled back home, with friends and family wanting to get their hands on a bottle. Some even flew to Copenhagen to try that winning beer when it was kegged in 2016.

FAMILY

Naturally, she told her parents about the new position. “My mum had a bigger reaction. She thought I was going to be a hard-core alcoholic working in a brewery! I had to explain to her that I taste the beer I brew but I don’t drink everyday or stay back at work to drink.” Now, Lan-Xin would hear news

LAN-XIN’S RECOMMENDED BARS FOR ANYONE VISITING COPENHAGEN:

WARPIGS FOR BEER

Flæsketorvet 25, 1711 København V, Denmark

warpigs.dk

BARKING DOG FOR COCKTAILS Sankt Hans Gade 19, 2200 København N, Denmark

thebarkingdog.dk

KIHOSKH FOR BOTTLE SELECTION PROVISION SHOP Sønder Blvd. 53, 1720 København V, Denmark

kihoskh.dk

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about the Singapore craft beer scene from her parents, a change she didn’t expect but was very proud of. The first year at Warpigs was very tough for the young brewers. Kyle and Lan-Xin would work 10 hours a day, seven days a week to keep up with the demands in the brewpub. That took a toll on the relationship side of things but Lan-Xin was very grateful for an understanding partner who still stands by her side today.

WORK CULTURE

Lan-Xin thinks that people in Mikkeller work very hard and that’s the work culture. It’s a fast growing company and she suspects her boss, Mikkel doesn’t actually sleep because she’d get emails from him at 5am in the morning. “This guy has a family and a big business in many countries. It gives you that motivation when you see a boss who cares. The Three Floyds guys visit 2-3 times a year and are one of few American companies that let employees have 4-5 weeks’ vacation.” She would feel bad to take that amount of time off, even though she has left over vacations because there are only 3 of them in the brewing team. For one person to take off, the other 2 will have to cover, which means a bigger workload and longer hours. The others would feel the same and there is a sense of treating your co-workers like family members.

WARPIGS The Magic of this Collaboration Mikkel would treat the brewing team like an R&D lab. When he has an idea of a recipe, he’d send it to the team to let them experiment with it. Then he’d be on top of the tasting and tweak the recipe until he is satisfied with the result. Recently, there is a global trend following the hazy New England style beer and Mikkel wanted to have a go at it. It took the 4th tweak to refine the recipe to his satisfaction. That’s how inspiring it is to the people who work for the brand. “It’s refreshing to know that even after 10 years in this business, he still has that flame.”

Beer Styles

Warpigs has a reputation for very experimental brews that use ingredients that no one else will use. One of them is the Beetroot Liquorice IPA recognised by its pink colour. It is said that the Scandinavians are obsessed with liquorice and having it with beetroot is normal. Not so much for the Singaporean, yaiks!

Favourite Beer in Warpigs

Lazurite half IPA 7.4% ABV – Though not her favourite style, this is something Lan-Xin would drink in between or back and forth with another beer, such as a sour. The light pale colour ale is dry, citrusy and packed with hops.

Top left: The General’s Room Top right: Warpigs has the two biggest smokers in Europe that can smoke up to 2 tons of meat a day.

LAN-XIN’S RECOMMENDED FOOD AND BEER PAIRING IN WARPIGS

CHICKEN WINGS

Head Chef Andrew Hroza marinates the buffalo wings and freezes them before deep frying them and then freezes them again. They are deep fried again right before serving with house blue cheese dressing. The slightly smoked mini drumlets are then divided from the wings which are used to make soup.

PAIR WITH Power Move Session IPA with flaked oats for body, 5% ABV.

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TA I H U

WINNIE HSU JUO WEI 28

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BECOMING A BREWER

The first time I met Winnie Hsu Juo Wei, she came across as lively yet composed, but the moment we talked about craft beer, you could see the sheer delight in her face. However, brewing craft beer wasn’t always her career goal. In fact, Winnie spent 7 years studying Agriculture, Economics and Entomology. It was her part time bartending job that gave her the opportunity to become a brewer. Her boss at Gordon Biersch, an American chain restaurant, convinced her that it takes a special person to become a brewer and that she should give it a go, so in 2007 she was “selected” to be the brewer for Gordon Biersch in Taiwan. Having no idea about brewing and not even drinking beer recreationally, she had a lot of studying to do. She was given two books: one on home-brewing and a comic book about brewing, neither of which were helpful as brewing at home is completely different from brewing commercially. But Winnie was up for new experiences and challenges so she took up the position and the company sent her to their US HQ for 6 months to learn how to brew. Upon her return, the company had her start brewing to supply the restaurant chain. After four years of hands-on brewing, Winnie left the job in 2011 to study for the International Brewers Certificate in Berlin, where she and Lan-Xin (currently with Warpigs, p.24 Lan-Xin Foo’s interview) became friends. She was fortunate to have been sponsored by Le Blé D’or brewpub. After graduating, Winnie was appointed as the Head of Operations and R&D at Le Blé D’or, a position equivalent to Head Brewer.

WINNIE’S CAREER THRIVES

Winnie’s two years at Le Blé D’or changed her career. Working in an important position in the biggest craft brewing company in Taiwan and winning medals for her beers, built her reputation among the craft brewing community. However, at the height of her career there, Winnie was more involved in the PR and marketing side of work when instead she much preferred to be brewing. She was still young and strong and could handle the manual

WORKING IN AN IMPORTANT POSITION IN THE BIGGEST CRAFT BREWING COMPANY IN TAIWAN AND WINNING MEDALS FOR HER BEERS HAVE BUILT HER REPUTATION AMONG THE CRAFT BREWING COMMUNITY. aspect of the work, carrying heavy sacks of ingredients and spending time in the lab. So in 2015, Winnie travelled to the US for 3 months to look for opportunities to brew again. She particularly wanted to work with breweries with bigger and more sophisticated facilities. She travelled to San Diego, Seattle, San Francisco and to the Brewers’ Conference

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and told everyone in the industry that she was looking for a job. But after talking to people in the country, she felt that there was a cultural and work ethic difference between the Taiwanese and Americans and she didn’t know if she could get used to it. Deciding that she would enjoy her work more in Taiwan, she moved back home where she felt she belonged.

JOINING TAIHU

Taihu was founded in 2013 by 5 Taiwanese Americans who met at school and who wanted to bring good quality craft beer served in a professional way to Taiwan. Like other Asian countries, craft beer was new to the drinks industry in Taiwan. As there weren’t many options at the time, they started by importing craft beers such as Japan’s Yoho Brewing and Stone Brewing from the US, and serving them at their first taproom which opened in 2014. The aim of the bar was to do things the “American way”. Taihu has now expanded to 6 outlets in Taipei. While all this was taking place, Winnie who was still very much in touch with Taihu, found out about their plans to focus on developing and brewing quality craft beers. Winnie saw from their planning that they were very serious about the business so when she returned from the US, she met with Taihu to talk about working for them. To her surprise, all five partners attended the meeting and they shared with her their plans for the brewery. That’s when she thought that this was the company with the right people and sincerity. She joined in May 2015 before the brewery opened. Taihu’s brewing operations is currently 6 months old at the time of writing. Following

decades of serving mainstream commercial beers, Taiwan finally passed the law allowing independent microbrewery in 2000. Before this, brewing, like all other alcohol and tobacco production in Taiwan, was solely controlled by the government. For a relatively young brewery, Taihu has already gained much attention and an enviable reputation within Taiwan and internationally for delivering quality beers.

THE FREEDOM TO CREATE

In Taiwan, one can’t brew onsite so Taihu’s taprooms are only for serving beer. There are many different stages in the application for brewing beer and a brewery must set shop in an industrial area. Whilst Taihu were waiting for approval to sell and distribute their first beers they began to test recipes with a small pilot system using a 10hl brew tank from Krones (a German company with one of the best brewing systems in the world). As soon as the license was approved they would be ready to begin distribution. Winnie didn’t want to waste any time. Luck was on their side; within 3 months, they had approval.

TAIHU’S AWARDS 2016 INTERNATIONAL BEER CUP GOLD PRIZE:

041 Kumquat Kölsch SILVER PRIZE:

004 Imperial Stout

2017 NEW YORK INTERNATIONAL BEER COMPETITION TAIWAN BREWERY OF THE YEAR SILVER MEDAL:

Imperial Stout

BRONZE MEDAL:

Spiced Amber, Imperial IPA

WINNIE SAW THROUGH THEIR PLANNING THAT THEY WERE VERY SERIOUS ABOUT THE BUSINESS SO WHEN SHE RETURNED FROM THE STATES, SHE MET WITH TAIHU TO TALK ABOUT WORKING FOR THEM.

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Winnie is always looking at creating brews out of her comfort zone. Although Winnie’s background is in brewing German-style beers, she has made over 80 different recipes from IPA, APA to more daring beers such as Gose and Berliner Weisse to Barrel Aged Imperial Stout. Winnie also introduces many local ingredients to her brews such as hibiscus in the Berliner Weisse and chen pi (bitter orange peel) in the Gose. The latest achievements include winning awards at the International Beer Cup 2016 and New York International Beer Competition 2017.

Colombian beans and the other is a stout that uses medium roast Guatemala at 9% ABV. Starbucks Reserve even built a draft system for them. The beers are served during the Evening Program which starts at 4pm daily. Starbucks Reserve (Da’an District) No. 134, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106

WHAT TO TASTE FROM TAIHU

Taihu currently has 4 core beers - Kumquat Kölsch, Bright Ale, Weisse, and IPA; with the most popular being the Kumquat Kölsch. The golden coloured Kölsch style typically has a light body with crisp bitterness, and originated from Cologne, Germany. Taihu’s version adds kumquats, a small citrus fruit which gives a refreshing lime-like aroma and citrus tang to the beer. Winnie experiments with Taihu’s 4 core beers all the time to bring in something new for their customers. In March, Winnie collaborated with Ray Daniels, founder of the Cicerone Certification Program, on a Smoked Märzen, which is a German style amber lager brewed with birchwood smoked malt. Another milestone for Taihu are the two coffee beers brewed and served exclusively on draft for Starbucks Reserve in Taipei, the ubiquitous firm’s premium brand which includes an in-store roastery. One is a cream ale, light and golden in colour that uses

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MINOH BREWERY ino-o Osaka is famous for the Osaru (monkeys) and maple leaves. Minoh Brewery took the monkey as its mascot and its logo is of a monkey drinking beer on their packaging. Minoh Brewery was the idea of the late Oshita Masaji, a liquor store operator who wanted more beer varieties in Japan. In 1994, right after the law passed reducing the requirement for commercial beer production from a minimum annual volume of 2 million litres to 60,000 litres, Masaji jumped at the opportunity to look for a site to start his own brewery. He appointed the eldest of his three daughters, Kaori, to be the brewer. At that time, Kaori was still in college. In 1996, Minoh Brewery was opened. Kaori had very basic brewing knowledge and received very little training before the start of the brewery, her experience mainly came from learning on the job. Through Masaji’s liquor

store, Minoh beers were promoted to Osaka and Tokyo. After the law was passed, many jumped into the business of brewing. Not only was Minoh facing the lack of experience and competition from over 300 other micro-breweries, there was also a growing resentment of craft beer due to the poor quality of most beers. Pressure from the big commercial breweries was great and Minoh chose to maintain its sales in liquor stores instead of to restaurants and bars. The brewing community however, was helpful, especially Ise Kadoya whom Kaori learned from and improved Minoh’s beer. In 2009, Minoh received their first recognition for World’s Best Dry Stout by World Beer Award. Masaji was so proud of his daughter’s achievement, he flew with Kaori to London to receive the award in person. Minoh would go on and win medals every year in the World Beer Awards, and even today, continue to earn various awards and accolades worldwide.

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2 3

On December 15th, 2012, Oshita Masaji passed away. 11 craft breweries, including Minoh, created tribute beers that represented their memories of the much respected icon. The initiative, called the Masaji Beer Project, was held in March 2013, a 3-day event of tastings, masterclasses and celebrations around their tribute beers. Every year since then, some of the breweries will brew a seasonal Masaji Beer Project beer for release in December, around the anniversary of Masaji’s passing. As the business grew, Kaori needed extra help so she asked Mayuko, the second sister who was then studying in Australia to assist in the family business. Freshly graduated in 2000, Mayuko took up the responsibility of assisting her sister with brewing, bottling and labelling. At that time, everything was done manually in the small brewery in the Mino-o residential neighbourhood, where the brewery still operates to this day. In August 2015, a bottling machine with a capacity of up to 2,400 bottles per hour was installed in the brewhouse. Labelling remains a manual process done in the warehouse. With the increase in capacity to 450,000 litres per year, Minoh opened the Minoh Beer Warehouse in October 2015, a neighbourhood bar with 10 taps that also sell bottles and Minoh merchandise. Other than beer, the sisters’ mother Itsuko Oshita makes jams and sauces with the ingredients from brewing (for example, the yuzu juice is made into ponzu while the peels are used in brewing). The third sister, Nozomi Katsumi, finally joined the siblings in 2010, manning the office for the brand. Kaori has always been leading the brewery and has taken up the role of taking care of the business ever since the father passed away.

EXPORT

1. New labelling machine. 2. Kaori with proud father Oshita Masaji at The International Brewing Awards 2011 3. Packaging is still done manually. 4. Announcement of the 20th anniversary party

Due to their current capacity and high demand within Japan, Minoh presently only exports regularly to Singapore, and occasionally to other countries for special events. Eastern Craft Singapore started to import Minoh’s beers in 2012, and Minoh only has enough stock to do so twice a year. Head down to Jibiru at 313 Orchard, Takumi at Mandarin Orchard, or to various bars and bottle shops whenever the beers arrive in Singapore. Stock is limited and usually sell out fast! The brewery is celebrating their 20th anniversary on 10th & 11th June 2017 at the park in front of the brewery. (Minoh beer 20th anniversary foundation Thanksgiving) minoh-beer.jp 4

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3 4

AWARDS

2009 Minoh Beer Stout Stout & Porter - Dry Stout

WORLD’S BEST DRY STOUT

2010 Minoh Beer Imperial Stout Stout & Porter

WORLD’S BEST STOUT & PORTER

2011 Minoh Beer W-Ipa Pale Ale - Imperial IPA

ASIA’S BEST IMPERIAL IPA

2012 Minoh Beer Stout Stout & Porter - Dry Stout

ASIA’S BEST DRY STOUT

Minoh Beer W-Ipa Pale Beer - Imperial IPA

ASIA’S BEST IMPERIAL IPA

2013 Minoh Beer Imperial Stout Stout & Porter

WORLD’S BEST STOUT & PORTER Minoh Beer W-Ipa Pale Beer - Imperial IPA

WORLD’S BEST IMPERIAL IPA

2014 Minoh Beer Pale Ale Pale Beer - Pale Ale

ASIA’S BEST PALE ALE

Minoh Beer Stout Stout & Porter - Stout

WORLD’S BEST STOUT

Minoh Beer W-Ipa Pale Beer - Imperial IPA

ASIA’S BEST IMPERIAL IPA

2015

1. Kaori and second sister Mayuko. 2. Minoh Brewery Exterior 3. Minoh Bar Warehouse 4. Outside Minoh Bar Warehouse 5. 10 beers on tap, bottled beers, jams and sauces are sold at the bar.

Minoh Beer Pale Ale Pale Beer - Pale Ale - Japan - Pale Ale

SILVER MEDAL

Minoh Beer Stout Stout & Porter - Stout - Japan - Stout

BRONZE MEDAL

Minoh Beer W-Ipa Pale Beer - Imperial IPA

ASIA’S BEST IMPERIAL IPA

2016 Minoh Beer Stout Stout & Porter - Stout

JAPAN’S BEST STOUT

Minoh Beer W-Ipa Pale Beer - Imperial / Double IPA

JAPAN’S BEST IMPERIAL / DOUBLE IPA

2017 W-IPA

GOLD MEDAL Stout

BRONZE MEDAL

OTHER ACHIEVEMENT

Minoh also brews for Disneyland

MASAJI BEER PROJECT PARTICIPATING BREWERIES: Isekadoya (Mie)

North Island Beer (Hokkaido)

Iwatekura (Iwate)

Fujizakura Beer (Yamanashi)

Sankt Gallen (Kanagawa)

Baird Beer (Shizuoka)

Shiga Kogen Beer (Nagano)

Harvest Moon (Chiba)

Johana Beer (Toyama)

Minoh Beer (Osaka)

Swan Lake Beer (Niigata)

FEATURE_MinohBrewery.indd 34

30/5/2017 2:08:23 AM

MARINE LUCCHINI

t 24, Marine wanted to move to the other side of the world to distil spirits. Recently graduated from university with little working experience, her parents tried to convince her to gain a few more years experience before starting this adventure. “Why wait when you can do it now?” she thought, so she packed and went to Thailand with her partner, Thibault Spithakis. Six years later in 2016, the distiller created Chalong Bay Rum, a pure sugar cane rum, naming the spirit after the beach near where the distillery sits (“chalong” also means “celebration” in Thai). The agricole-style rum has won several awards since 2012.

WHY PHUKET?

“Phuket holds a special place in my heart and I can’t tell you how grateful I am to the people on the island after the tsunami in 2004. So many people died but my family survived. I believe there is a reason for that.” So when Marine and Thibault decided they wanted to start a business together, the location was never a question.

Chalong Bay Rum was established out of a passion for the production and science of spirits making. The production process follows the traditional French technique that is used in Caribbean rum-making, and is distilled in an imported copper still designed by an 80 year old French Armagnac still maker who flew to the island and built it specifically for the distillery. With few resources in a foreign land and needing help, Marine went on the search for people who would believe in her project and willing to go on this crazy adventure with her and Thibault. The first person who joined the project was by chance. While getting a ride to pick up their car, Thibault mentioned to the driver that they were looking for people to join their project. Coincidentally, the driver’s friend who was following happened to be looking for a project to join. And that’s how it started. Since that person, Pang, came on board, she’s now one of the partners in Chalong Bay. As Marine says “What we do is so much about people and I believe that many things happen for a reason.”

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THE DISTILLERY SITE

The land that Chalong Bay occupies includes all stages of production - the fermentation, distillery, stock storage, packaging, plus a new bar, and crops of sugar cane (not for distilling) and bananas. It also houses a cat and a dog that have made the place their home. When the distillery first opened 6 years ago, visitors were welcome to take as many photos as they liked but once Marine found out that people attempted to copy the design of the stills, signs were put up around the stills to stop people from taking photos. Thailand doesn’t exactly have a high reputation when it comes to distilling spirits but the work at Chalong Bay has slowly changed the perception of the locals as well as the Thai authority. There are many restrictions in Thailand on alcohol production but they are mostly in favour of the big producers. On the other hand, the regulations for production quality in general, are loose. Competition is fierce among the smaller producers but the Thais have very little regard for locally produced spirits that are cheap and harsh to drink. Upholding the company’s strict self-created policy to never compromise on quality and retain transparency has, however, brought the brand a long way to now being recognised as the trusted brand from Thailand and something the locals are proud of. The distillery works with local suppliers to support sustainable trade and promises to use the best ingredients. There are over 200 species of sugar cane in Thailand. The country is the 4th biggest sugar cane producing country at over 100,000,000 metric tons per year, after Brazil, India and China. Chalong Bay Rum uses only one species and, as the supply is seasonal, they can only produce 3 months a year. In 2016, 35,000 bottles were produced with every single part of the process manually done by hand. The sugar canes were

handpicked to select the best of the batch for production and only the first pressed sugar cane juice is used, with the rest being sold to the sugar factory. Once the juice goes into production, Marine and the team stays with the tanks 24/7 to monitor the progress from fermentation to distilling, making adjustments, including temperature and flow rates, manually every step of the way.

LATEST DEVELOPMENT

They have recently added a vapor infusion component to the still, called Carterhead, a technique that’s been exclusively used in gin and even so, there are only 5 worldwide. This allows the infusion to take place using the freshest ingredients without adding artificial flavours to the spirits. The vapour from the still passes through the ingredients, extracting flavours along the way before falling back into the pipe in the cooling tank. An additional 3 flavours have been developed the past year: lemongrass, cinnamon and sweet basil. For the basil infused rum, this meant Marine and the team handpicked the leaves off the stalks to make sure only the juicy, flavourful part of the leaves and not bitterness from the stalk get into the final product. As for the lemongrass – they hand cut over 14,000 lemongrass sticks into small pieces in order to extract the oils! After distillation and the cooling tank, the spirit at 70% ABV is transferred to several tanks for maturation over a minimum of 8 months before bottling. Very little distilled water is added, depending on the volume of rum and the percent of alcohol, and dilution takes place slowly over the year.

BOTTLING

Distilleries in Thailand are allowed to use any bottle for their products, but the only bottles available in Thailand are the recycled ones from the main commercial distillery – Thai Bev. Chances of getting flawless recycled bottles is so low, it’s almost unlikely.

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28/5/2017 11:16:25 PM

For Chalong Bay, they were losing at least 30% of the bottles they bought because they were too damaged and not presentable. To guarantee their own identity, and the quality and integrity of their bottles, Chalong Bay has since designed their own bottle but produced outside of Thailand. Importing the empty bottles to Thailand does mean that it’s adding more to their production cost. On the labelling, Marine initially wanted the label design to look local but feedback was poor because of the low perception of Thais towards local spirits. So they went for a clean-looking design that makes the product look international. The brand has since been perceived as a premium product produced locally in Thailand, and the lack of “Thainess” in the design was a comment that started to come up. So when the 3 new flavours using Thai ingredients were released, the labels encompassed more Thai elements into them, like the names of the botanicals in Thai. The shift in local sentiment is giving Chalong Bay the confidence that they have acquired the recognition and have changed the Thai’s perception of local brand spirits. This, Marine considers, is a milestone achievement. Chalong Bay Rum is priced at 620 baht per 700ml bottle to remain competitive. The price is very close to other locally produced spirits, but below imported premium spirits, that are mostly used in high end hotels which account for most of Chalong Bay Rum’s clientele in Thailand.

OVERSEAS MARKET

Within the last 2 years, Chalong Bay Rum has been exported to over 20 countries worldwide thanks to their export strategy. They present their brand in trade shows all around the world, including their biggest breakthrough achieved with La Maison Du Whisky. Marlene Leon, LWDW Singapore’s founder, promoted the rum in Europe and Singapore, where cocktail culture is at its prime and demand for craft spirits on the rise. Marlene Leon herself had said before meeting the team of Chalong Bay “The people behind this (rum) must be taking good care of the production. By the taste of it, you can feel that.” “They think you’re small and insignificant but ever since this distillery, people producing spirits are upping their standard in Thailand.” To promote transparency of their work, the distillery is open for tours and lately, an addition of a bar at the premises where cocktail workshops are available to individuals as well as groups. “It makes their (Thai authorities) life easier when one distillery follows the rules,” said Marine, further adding, “I am proud because the government appreciates the cleanliness, quality and transparency of our operations.” After Chalong Bay, there is an apparent improvement in the quality of spirits production in Thailand. People are putting more care in hygiene and safety of equipment used, and consumers are demanding better quality product.

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30/5/2017 2:12:20 AM

The distiller is always on site. During our visit, she had her eyes fixed on the stills, and ears peeled listening for any irregularities. With a degree in project management, Marine is highly capable of looking after the whole operation at the distillery, and from what we saw, her life is now mostly spent with her work. For relaxation, “When I get to go out,

my favourite hangout is Green Man, an Irish Pub where I can salsa.” Dancing means letting go for the distiller. “It’s nice to let someone else lead once a while. In here I have to make sure that everything is under control and when I’m on the dance floor, as how it usually works in salsa, the man can lead. That is when it is most meditating and relaxing.”

CHALONG BAY COCKTAIL RECIPES CHALONG BAY MOJITO INGREDIENTS 1 ½ tbs fine white sugar 30ml fresh lime juice and wedges 1 handful of fresh mint leaves 45ml Chalong Bay 75ml soda water Small ice cubes

METHOD

sugar and 1 Add squeeze lime in a glass mint leaves in the 2 Put glass and muddle gently in Chalong Bay 3 Pout and stir up with small 4 Top ice cubes and add soda

THAI FLING INGREDIENTS 30ml simple syrup 30ml fresh lime juice 60ml Chalong Bay 3 small slices of red chilli without seeds 1 handful of fresh mint and sweet basil leaves Large ice cubes

METHOD

ut mint, sweet basil 1 Pleaves and chili in a shaker

2 Muddle gently lime, simple syrup 3 Add and Chalong Bay with 4 Shake large ice cubes strain into a 5 Double chilled glass without ice

FOR MORE RECIPES, VISIT CHALONGBAYRUM.COM 38

FEATURE_MarineLucchini.indd 38

29/5/2017 9:46:57 PM

EILING LIM

I GET PEOPLE WHO ASK ME IF I ‘MADE’ THESE WHISKIES (IN MALAYSIA) IN MY HOUSE. WHAT IS SINGLE CASK? Whiskies are normally distilled and produced in batches for volume, then aged in several barrels (or casks). The liquid from the barrels in the same, or even different, batches are then blended together to ensure consistency in every bottle. Even though the liquid in all these barrels started out with the same distilled spirits, after years of ageing in the barrels, each develops independent characteristics, different tastes, colour and even its alcohol volume. Single cask refers to one barrel that is singled out from a batch of whisky production.

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28/5/2017 11:17:13 PM

12th Release Old Speyside 1973/2016 43YO (47.8%) 118 bottles

and is also an ex-Malt Maniac, a prestigious recognition in the whisky industry. In the beginning, Eiling’s bottles still had Luc’s name as recommender but it soon became unnecessary when the brand quickly gained a reputation among whisky lovers.

EDUCATING THE LOCAL MARKET

ately in the market, we have been getting supplies of rare single cask whiskies produced in small batches by independent bottlers at reasonable prices, similar to any commercial bottling between RM300 – RM500 per bottle. Why bother with this if there is already all that supply from the big distilleries? Simply so that you can try more variety of whiskies that are straight from the cask as their original expression. Lim Eiling is one such independent bottler who was determined to introduce more distinctive whiskies to the Malaysian market by starting the business 3 years ago in Belgium.

STARTED AS AN AFTER THOUGHT “The first batch of bottling was from a closed Lowland distillery, Littlemill. When we (with husband Luc Timmermans) bought part of the barrel, we only wanted to have it because it was so good. Bottling was an after-thought and the start of my independent bottling adventure. To date, 13 batches have been bottled under the Eiling Lim brand.” Eiling’s Littlemill 1990 23YO (49.8%ABV) ended up in 68 bottles from a shared cask that was quickly snatched up before it was even released. “Word gets around quickly and people know when it’s a good whisky,” says Luc Timmermans, who is an ex-independent bottler himself under the Thosop Handwritten label. He has over 5,000 whisky tastings from the past 20 years in his whisky library

When asked about the biggest obstacle faced in the Malaysian market, Eiling said that education is important because many whisky drinkers don’t really understand that there are regulations in whisky production. “I get people who ask me if I ‘made’ these whiskies (in Malaysia) in my house,” with a helpless smile. To be qualified as Scotch whisky, the spirits have to be produced and distilled in Scotland, aged in oak barrels for at least 3 years and bottled in Scotland at a minimum 40% ABV. “But I am made in Malaysia!” said the Ipoh girl cheekily. Eiling’s surname “Lim” in Chinese is a combination of two “wood” characters – . It is apt, as wood is essential to making good whisky and the calligraphic character on the label makes the brand stand out. It is the independent bottler’s mission to introduce more whisky options to the Malaysian market. “I want people to know that you have to keep trying different types of whisky to find out what your favourite is. Ruling out whisky because you have tried just one which happens to be one you don’t like is such a shame.” Though the general market sentiment is less encouraging, the actual excitement is among true whisky enthusiasts who are knowledgeable and appreciate the value of good content in independent bottlings.

HOW IS A WHISKY CHOSEN FOR BOTTLING?

Eiling and Luc have to taste 20 to 50 types of whisky at every single tasting. Their source would supply them with samples and they have to taste them quickly and decide on their prediction fast. Good whiskies are bought up at the speed of lightning and there is simply no room for procrastination. The nose of the whisky is the most important as there is no point bottling something that doesn’t have good aroma to start with. Then it is the test of the palate: the whisky must have the right flavours and be balanced in its taste and finish.

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28/5/2017 11:17:15 PM

Whiskies that are picked out during the first tasting will be put into a second tasting the following day, right after breakfast before noon, while the tasters’ palates are still fresh. The second tasting will then determine whether the whiskies are truly the ones they want to bottle. Lastly, its pricing. It has to be a reasonably priced and affordable whisky. In recent years, whisky has become an item of investment with high price bids during auction. Many high value whiskies are not in fancy bottles because people buy for its contents and not for the packaging. An example would be Eiling’s first bottling, Littlemill 1990 that is now triple the original price when it was first released in 2014.

A PROJECT OF PASSION IN SMALL BATCHES

Durian flavour In a tasting with the Boozy Buggers, a group of alcohol connoisseurs who regularly get together and do informal tastings picked up durian flavour in Eiling Lim’s Littlemill 1990.

“Many major independent bottlers buy a big lot of barrels to bottle from. They have to do this because selling whisky is their bread and butter.” For Eiling, this is a project of passion with her husband and they make sure that whatever they bottle are whiskies that they will drink themselves if they don’t sell out. So far, all Eiling’s bottles are snatched up even before they are released. Being an independent bottler might sound glamorous but it is also a lot of hard work. There aren’t many of them out there simply because it’s not easy to get casks, hence the source is the key. Distilleries don’t sell their casks to anyone, even with good relationships. Distilleries are normally owned by big brands and have their own bottling plants and blends. Their limited edition is 20,000 bottles compared to independent bottlings with as little as double digit bottles. There is really no incentive for distilleries to sell individual casks. Eiling allocates 40% of the stock to Malaysia, 60% to Canada and Europe, with small quantities going to Taiwan and Australia upon request. Wholly Spirits distribute Eiling’s bottles, and drams are available to taste in The Whisky Bar KL. For updates on new releases, visit her website at www.eilinglim.com.

EILING LIM’S INDEPENDENT BOTTLING RELEASES TO DATE

GOOD WHISKIES ARE BOUGHT UP AT THE SPEED OF LIGHTNING AND THERE IS SIMPLY NO ROOM FOR PROCRASTINATION.

1ST RELEASE

LITTLEMILL 1990/2013 (49.8%)

2ND RELEASE

BEN NEVIS 1970/2014

43YO (44.8%) 60 bottles 3RD RELEASE

CLYNELISH 1997/2014

16YO (50.2%) 70 bottles 4TH RELEASE

LITTLEMILL 1991/2013

22YO (47.2%) 41 bottles 5TH RELEASE

GLEN KEITH 1992/2014

21YO (48.2%) 48 bottles 6TH RELEASE

IRISH “PEATED” SINGLE MALT 1991/2014 22YO (48.6%) 116 bottles 7TH RELEASE

BUNNAHABHAIN 1980/2014 34YO (46.3%) 50 bottles 8TH RELEASE

LITTLEMILL 1990/2014

24YO (46.8%) 113 bottles 9TH RELEASE

AUCHENTOSHAN 1992/2015 23YO (45.7%) 132 bottles 10TH RELEASE

GLENLOSSIE 1992/2015

23YO (51.1%) 100 bottles 11TH RELEASE

CAOL ILA 2006/2015

9YO (51.2%) 109 bottles FIRST OFFICIAL DISTILLERY BOTTLING:

GLENFARCLAS 1979 CASK #8818 37YO (46.9%) 188 bottles

12TH RELEASE

OLD SPEYSIDE 1973/2016

43YO (47.8%) 118 bottles EXTRA-ORDINARY RANGE BOTTLING:

BESSIE’S DRAM ISLAY SINGLE MALT 2016 (51.3%) Limited

TENNESSEE WHISKY 2016 (51.5%) Limited

BLENDED MALT ‘OLDER THAN OLD’ 2015 (46.5%) Limited

13TH RELEASE

GLENROTHES 1997/2016

19YO (50.2%) 201 bottles

FEATURE_EilingLim.indd 41

29/5/2017 9:48:21 PM

Beer Places

The greAT beer

The bar version of Ales & Lagers with 8 taps on draught, the bar serves beers from all over the world but has the most extensive beer list from the US that you can find in KL. Food menu is with all things pork. Bottled beers are also available for on premise consumption and for take away.

3pm – 1am Daily

86G Jalan SS21/62, Damansara Utama, 47400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia. +603 7731 5946

TAPs beer bAr

The biggest range of craft beers from all around the world including New Zealand, Australia, Japan, Europe and America. The Bukit Bintang outlet opened first in 2011, followed by Mont Kiara in 2015. They serve pizzas, local fusion, as well as porky beer food. Come on weekend evenings for their live bands too.

5pm –1am Daily (12pm –1am sun)

Jalan Nagasari, Bukit Bintang, 50200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2110 1560

11am – 11pm Daily

Ales & lAgers

Started as a temporary “shoebox-sized” bottle shop in Publika by Kennhyn Ang, the shop has moved to a bigger space since 2016. Cozied up with a print shop, there are always two fridges full of beer, free flow tit bits and a popular place to relax and drink or to stock up the empty beer space in your fridge.

3pm – 10pm Daily

D5-G4-3, Publika, Solaris Dutamas, No.1 Jalan Dutamas 1, 50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 6419 0328 @AlesLagers

@TheGreatBeerBar

TAkumi

A branch from the original outlet in Singapore, Takumi serves Japanese craft beer Hitachino Nest on draught and by the bottles. Other Japanese craft beers are also available in bottles. Food can be bought from anywhere within the Isetan store and consumed at the bar. Japanese whisky, sake and tea are also served at the adjacent counters.

11am - 9pm Daily

G-1, 1 Mont Kiara Mall, 1 Jalan Kiara, Mont Kiara, 50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 6206 5983

Isetan The Japan Store, Lower Ground Floor, Lot 10, 50 Jalan Sultan Ismail, 50250 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2141 7777

tapsbeerbar.my

@takumicraftbarkl

The sociAl

Started its first outlet in Bangsar in 2001, the brand has now expanded to 4 outlets in popular locations. The restaurants serve a mix of local and fusion dishes and offer a wide range of beverages from beers to cocktails, whiskies and wines. All the outlets have live performances and carry energetic vibes that make them preferred hangouts.

11.30am - 2am Daily

57-59, Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru, 59100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2282 2260

2pm – 3am Daily

GF-02, The Waterfront @ Parkcity, No 5, Persiaran Residen, Desa ParkCity, 52200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 6279 9225

11am–5am Daily (11am–12am sun)

E-G-01 & 02, Electric Boulevard, Lot 434, Jalan Tun Razak, Seksyen 90, 50400 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2110 2772

11am – 2am Daily

31 & 32 Level G2, Block C5, Publika, Solaris Dutamas, Jalan Dutamas 1, 50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 6207 9225 thesocial.com.my

siD’s Pub

A passion project to create a place to hangout for the neighbourhoods where each bar is located, the pubs serve up British pub grub and cold drinks in a friendly and laid back environment. The neighbourhood pub is always filled with happy people that guarantees good times, every time.

11pm – 1am Daily

34 Lorong Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 7727 7437

The green mAn Pub & resTAurAnT

One of the very first outlets on Changkat Bukit Bintang, the pub is the favourite hangout for the local expatriate community. English pub grub is available all day at affordable prices to go with cold lager and stout. Watch all types of sports live daily.

10am – 1am Daily

40 Changkat Bukit Bintang, 50200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2141 9924 @TheGreenMan.KL

11pm – 12.45am Daily

10-G Jalan Medan Setia 2, Damansara Heights, 50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2094 7437

11pm – 1am Daily

M-5A, The Village, Bangsar South, Jalan Kerinchi, 59200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2287 7437

11pm – 1am Daily

H2, Taman Tunku, off Lorong Langkat Tunku, 50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 6205 2588

10am - 12am Daily

2, Lorong Hang Jebat, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia. +606 283 7437 sidspubs.com

on line Pub

Known for their well pulled Guinness and Hokkien mee, curry wild boar, pork in blanket, the bar is also frequented for their daily live band performances by local artists and musicians. The name of the pub is to commemorate the owners’ father who worked in the railway industry.

4pm – 1am closed sundays

32, SS20/10, Damansara Kim, 47400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia. +603 7728 0532

5pm – 1am closed sundays 10, Jalan SS 4/17, Ss4, 47301 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia. +6012 290 8859

@On-LinePub-127455673972319

FEATURE_BeerWhiskyMaking.indd 44

29/5/2017 9:50:33 PM

As long as the grains are dry, usually with a 4.5% moisture level, the kilning stops. Kilning is also where some whisky producers use peat heated fires to dry the grains, infusing the grains with smoky aromas and flavours.

FOR WHISKY:

The length of time that the grains are heated, or roasted, affects the flavour, colour, and type of beer to be brewed – from lightly roasted malt used for brewing pale coloured beers with “biscuity” malt flavours, to amber beers with caramellike malt profile all the way to the dark roasts of stouts and porters.

FOR BEER:

TURNING STARCH INTO SUGAR Malting prepares and unlocks the starches in barley. First, barley is soaked in water for a period of time, then spread out on the malting floor, allowing germination to occur. This process, which takes 3-5 days, releases enzymes for the conversion of complex carbohydrates into fermentable sugars. The next step, called kilning, is the drying of the grain by heating to stop germination. The kilned grains are now called malt.

MALTING AND KILNING

\1\

WORT

LAUTERING / SPARGING

MALTING

BARLEY

WATER

MASHING

KILNING

The mashing process is usually done three times per batch of grist, with increasing water temperature at each stage. Only wort from the first two stages is transferred to a washback and used for fermentation, with the third being used in the next batch of grist.

FOR WHISKY:

After mashing, the wort is drained and separated from the grains in a process called lautering, either through the bottom of the mash tun or in a separate lauter tun. Sparging is where hot water is slowly sprayed, or a portion of the first wort is drawn and recirculated, through the grain residue to fully extract the sugars from the grain as the wort is drained out.

FOR BEER:

EXTRACTING THE SUGAR TO MAKE ‘WORT’ (WERT) In order to extract the sugars, the malt is milled and cracked open into coarse flour called grist. Mashing is the process where the grist is added to heated water in a mash tun to extract and convert the starches into sugars for fermentation. Mashing takes place at various set temperatures to extract as much fermentable sugar as possible. The result is a sweet rich sugar liquid called wort.

MASHING

\2\

THE SIMILARITIES AND DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MAKING BEER AND WHISKY

FEATURE_BeerWhiskyMaking.indd 45

30/5/2017 2:15:00 AM

BOILING

CONDITIONING AND AGEING Beer is conditioned for flavours to develop before packaging into bottles, cans or kegs. The brewer can decide to condition or age the beer for days, weeks, months, or even years before releasing it.

FINISHING

\5\

Yeast is pitched and fermentation begins! The yeast feeds on sugars (produced during the mashing process) in the wort and converts this into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The fermentation process will be very active the first 2-3 days and takes 5-14 days on average to complete for ales and 6 weeks for lagers.

FERMENTATION

\4\

Wort is boiled in a brew kettle at an intense “rolling” boil for up to 90 minutes. This concentrates the wort, sterilizes and eliminates bacteria, and breaks down complex carbohydrates into simple sugars for the fermentation process. Hops, which add flavour, aroma and bitterness to beer, are also added at different stages during the boil. At the end of the boil, any solid particles are separated out. The boiled wort is cooled quickly down to fermentation temperature that is ideal for yeast to work and to reduce the chance of infection, then transferred to the fermentation tank.

\3\

YEAST

HOPS

KEG

FERMENTATION

BOILING

AGEING

DISTILLATION

OAK BARREL

YEAST

AT THIS POINT, THE PROCESS BECOMES DIFFERENT FOR BEER AND WHISKY.

VAPOR

WORT

FERMENTATION

AGEING AND MATURATION The new make spirit is filled into oak barrels for ageing, usually in exbourbon or sherry casks. For Scotch whisky, the liquid has to be matured for at least 3 years in Scotland, and bottled at a minimum 40% ABV.

FINISHING

\5\

The liquid is then sent to a pot still for boiling, the liquid evaporates and moves up the still until it touches the copper tubing. The vapour then turns into liquid again and collected at the bottom of the still. This is the first run that creates low wine at 10% – 20% ABV. The low wine is then sent to a spirit still for further distillation.

DISTILLATION

\4\

Hot wort from the mash is collected and cooled in the underback before being transferred to the washback where yeast is pitched and fermentation begins. This is similar to the process for beer, where the yeast converts the sugars in the wort into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Fermentation takes 2 to 4 days to complete, producing a “beer”, or “wash”, that is between 5% – 10% ABV.

\3\

TASTE TEST

CRAFT BEER MALAYSIAN VS

FOOD By AD Hartley

THE BEERS

CHOCOLATE STOUT Rogue Ales, Oregon USA (1988)

The stout has become one of the brewery’s signature ales over the 16 years since first brewed. TASTING NOTES: Deep,

dark chocolate colour and creamy head, the earthy oats and subtle hops give way to a rich bittersweet finish.

TROLLTUNGA

Buxton Brewery, Buxton UK (2009)

From the back of a garage in the Peak District to a craft beer mainstay 8 years later, Buxton Brewery is a firm favourite for many. TASTING NOTES:

Refreshing, tart and fruity Gooseberry Sour IPA brewed in conjunction with Norway’s Lervig Brewery.

THE SCENE Taps Beer Bar, Mont Kiara on a hot, sunny Monday in midMarch. Five experts gather for a summit to discuss the most vital question facing us in these turbulent times. Namely, which style of craft beer pairs best with four of the most famous dishes Malaysia has to offer? Told you it was a vital question

BRAVE NEW WORLD IPA

PALE ALE

In 2010, Scotland’s Tempest Brewery simply set out to re-create and improve on the big flavours of the beers they tried on their travels.

The brewery has a simple mission: “Be true to the beer and those who drink it.”

Tempest Brew Co, Tweedbank UK (2010)

TASTING NOTES: A great

example of a modern style IPA with bold and refreshing notes of pine and citrus.

Mornington Peninsular Brewery, Victoria Australia (2009)

TASTING NOTES: Golden

in colour with a smooth, not overly bitter palate and citrus aromas.

SAISON

Hawkers Beer, Victoria Australia (2015)

A new brewery but with years of experience in creating great craft ales against the odds. TASTING NOTES: Slightly

cloudy and golden in colour, with soft bitter notes of citrus and spice balanced by sweet malt and fruit flavours.

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THE PANELLIST

Alvin Lim

Taps Beer Bar, KL

CT Tai

Local craft beer blogger

Chef Aaron Ngow Taps Beer Bar, KL

Meng-Chao

Brewers’ Craft, Singapore

Kim Choong Editor of Thirst Magazine

THE TASK To decide which of five different beer styles would pair most rewardingly with each of the dishes. With such towering flavours on offer only the most distinctive of beers would do.

SPICY AND SOUR ASAM LAKSA

DEEP, RICH CHAR SIEW PERFECT PAIRING

CHOCOLATE STOUT

Noodles in a tangy fish broth (usually sardines). Full of flavour, the dish is spicy, sour, and pungent.

A barbequed / roasted pork dish; savoury, yet sweet, with a tinge of caramelised burnt notes.

ALVIN: The clean taste of pale ale

The panel unanimously agreed that the stout and char siew each complimented the other’s deep flavours. MENG-CHAO: “When tried with some chili sauce the char siew also worked very well with the Sour Ale, a combination of sweet, sour and spice.”

KIM: Saison, meh.

distracted less than the others from the strong laksa flavours.

CT: The robust body of the IPA cut

through them more satisfyingly. MENG-CHAO: IPA, Ok lah. CHEF AARON chose - Sour Ale

complimented the sourness of the laksa. Requires further study. PERFECT PAIRING

INCONCLUSIVE

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FRESH, FLAVOURSOME ROJAK

A mixed fruit and veg salad, with a sweet and sour sauce; the rojak proved equally as challenging, though more positive. CT: Saison - The floral notes

worked well with the peanut sauce. CHEF AARON AND ALVIN: Sour

Ale - enhanced the flavours and balanced the spiciness. KIM: IPA - the hops brought out

the fresh ingredients such as the cucumber in the rojak.

MENG-CHAO: Pale ale - Acted as

a palette cleanser. So as before, no clear consensus, though it seemed there were a number of beers that complimented the dish.

SPICY NASI LEMAK

A fragrant rice dish, cooked with coconut milk and served with sweet and spicy sambal, crunchy anchovies, hardboiled egg and peanuts. Often served with squid or fried chicken, it’s a busy dish with complex flavours.

PERFECT PAIRING

SAISON

The entire panel was quick to endorse the Saison as the best choice to pair with nasi lemak as it balanced the heat of the sambal very nicely, ending our taste test perfectly.

PERFECT PAIRING

INCONCLUSIVE

Wonderful food with some of the best ales; what an afternoon. In truth we only scratched the surface during this tasting. It’s clear that with such a breadth of dishes and flavours across the region and the increasing number of international beers available, there are some surprising pairings to be discovered. Not all will work, as we found out, but it’s going to be fun trying.

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THE WORLD OF WHISK(E)Y By Matthew Fergusson-Stewart The way some people talk about whisky, you’d be forgiven for thinking that it all came from Scotland, and I’ll admit to being one of the worst offenders. I love Scotch whisky; it is my career, my hobby and my great passion. But whisky (and indeed whiskey) is not purely a Scottish thing, there is a fantastic world of whisk(e)y out there for the casual drinker and connoisseur alike. For the curious, let’s take a world tour

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IRISH WHISKEY We’ll start with Ireland, as they are the first to have made this glorious drink, with a written reference dating to 1405, when it was recorded that a clan chief expired after drinking too much. But this is not a history tour, so let’s focus on Irish Whiskey (they spell it with the ‘e’) as it stands today. Irish Whiskey tends to be the lightest and most delicate of all world whisk(e)y styles with vibrant fresh fruit, floral and grassy notes, partly due to their habit of triple distillation and their sparing use of peat. There are four types of Irish Whiskey, all of which must be aged in oak for a minimum of three years:

P OT STILL IRISH WHISKEY Distilled from a mash of at least 30% malted barley, at least 30% unmalted barley and other unmalted cereals. It must be distilled in pot stills such that the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the materials used. Examples include Green Spot and Redbreast. ALT IRISH WHISKEY Made from just M malted barley, water and yeast, and distilled in pot stills such that the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the materials used. Malt Irish Whiskey has a distinctive smooth, velvet, full and oily texture with a malty and sweet taste, which is similar in style to a Scotch single malt whisky. Teeling and Tullamore Dew produce single malt Irish Whiskey.

G RAIN IRISH WHISKEY Produced from malted barley not exceeding 30% and other whole unmalted cereals like maize, wheat or barley. Distilled in column stills such that the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the materials used and the column distillation method. It is comparable to Scotch single grain whisky. Teeling and Kilbeggan produce single grain Irish Whiskey. B LENDED IRISH WHISKEY Mixes of any two or more of the styles listed above and the best known example is Jameson Blended Irish Whiskey.

SCOTCH WHISKY The Scots soon followed the Irish in producing whisk(e)y, though they choose to spell it ‘whisky’, and are probably the most famous whisky producers in the world. They are known for a generally richer and bolder style, with greater use of peat and a tendency towards double rather than triple distillation. They produce five styles, some of which are not very well known.

S INGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY Their oldest

known style, dating to at least 1494, and probably earlier, Single Malt must be made with 100% malted barley, water and yeast. It must be the product of only one distillery and distilled in pot stills. Much loved by whisky fanatics around the world, examples include Glenfiddich and Laphroaig.

S INGLE GRAIN SCOTCH WHISKY First created in the 1800s, single grain is again the product of just one distillery, but it typically uses a mixture of different grains and is distilled in a continuous still. It is generally a more neutral spirit that single malt. Examples include Haig Club.

B LENDED MALT WHISKY A mixture of two or more single malt whiskies with no single grain whisky. For example, Monkey Shoulder.

B LENDED GRAIN WHISKY A mixture of two or more single grain whiskies with no single malt whisky. Examples include Hedonism, and Compass Box.

B LENDED WHISKY A mixture of one

or more single malt whiskies with one or more single grain whiskies, this is probably the best-known whisky category in the world. Examples include Johnnie Walker, Chivas Regal and Grants.

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AMERICAN WHISKEY Sticking with the ‘e’ for a moment, we move onto American Whiskey. The most famous style is Bourbon, with its rich, sweet vanilla-laden style, but there are many different styles to consider:

B OURBON WHISKEY Made from a mash that consists of at least 51% corn, for example, Jim Beam. For the record, Bourbon can be made anywhere in the US, not just Kentucky. RYE WHISKEY Made from a mash that consists of at least 51% rye, for example, Sazerac Rye. RYE MALT WHISKEY Made from a mash that consists of at least 51% malted rye. For example, Bulleit Rye and Oppidan Malted Rye. M ALT WHISKEY Made from a mash that consists of at least 51% malted barley. For example, FEW Single Malt. W HEAT WHISKEY Made from a mash that consists of at least 51% wheat. For example, Montana Spring. C ORN WHISKEY Made from a mash that consists of at least 80% corn. For example, Hudson Corn Whiskey. T ENNESSEE WHISKEY Not defined in legislation but meets the requirements for Bourbon, with the additional requirements that it be made in Tennessee and go through the ‘Lincoln County’ process. For example, Jack Daniels. Most American whiskies, with the exception of Corn whiskey, must be aged in new American oak barrels. Unlike most other whisk(e)y producing countries, they may not use second hand casks, they may not use European or Japanese oak, and they may not use other sizes, such as butts, pipes and puncheons. Legislation also does not define a legal minimum aging period, though the term ‘Straight’ as in ‘Straight Bourbon Whiskey’ indicates that it has aged for at least two years.

WORLD WHISKY Whisky does not belong to any one country, and today there are a dozens, in not more than a hundred countries, producing whisky. The Japanese are particularly noteworthy for learning and adapting the techniques of Scotch whisky, to create one of the most talked about categories of whisky today, and innovating with Mizunara casks and other techniques. But there are many countries on the rise in whisky production, including India, Taiwan, Australia, England, France, South Africa etc. Many of these ‘new world’ whisky countries have yet to fully develop their own distinctive style, but if you’re a whisky lover with a heart for exploration, the world today is an exciting place.

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Whisky plaCes kuala luMpur the Whisky Bar

Possibly the most extensive collection of whiskies you can find in Malaysia. Ask whisky nerd Andrew for recommendations based on your favourite taste profile. Carries most of the releases by Malaysian independent bottler, Eiling Lim, in the outlet.

Mezze Wine Bar & Bistro

Serving Mediterranean food with Asian influences, this restaurant is popular for gatherings with a good dram and cigars.

4pm-1am Closed sundays

46, Changkat Bukit Bintang, 50200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2143 2268

132, Jalan Kasah, Medan Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2095 0122

thewhiskybarkl.com

mezze.my

6pm - 1am Daily

Mezze Wine Bar & Bistro

Wh!sky tango Foxtrot

A cigar divan with a wide range of whisky and wines. An annual membership fee gives you a personal locker with your name on it to store your stash.

3pm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 12am Closed sundays 128, Jalan Kasah, Medan Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2011 2056

The Whisky Bar

Whisky Fling

Every first Wednesday of the month, 6pm-8pm. Flight of 4 whiskies at RM35 nett.

single anD availaBle Whisky shop

GF, Lot G111A, Bangsar Shopping Centre, No 285, Jalan Maarof, Bukit Bandaraya, Bangsar, 59000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2287 2151 @singleandavailablewhisky

petaling Jaya the Forking Cork

Started by a group of entrepreneurs, the bars are meant for networking, business start-ups and all things about building businesses.

4pm - 12am Daily

49, Jalan Hujan, Taman Overseas Union, 58200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +6016 693 4253 @theforkingcorkMY

61 MonarChy

A go-to bar for a quiet dram and rare collections from around the world, especially Japan. The bartender can also shake up some whisky cocktails. Serves light bites.

5pm - 2am Closed sundays

61, Jalan SS 21/1a, Damansara Utama, 47400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia. +6017 680 1357 61monarchy.com 61 Monarchy

Whisky lounge – Joker

Small bar stocked with selected Japanese whiskies and rare Scotch. Regular live music.

6pm – 2am Closed sundays

12-2, Jalan 30/70A, Desa Sri Hartamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2300 1120 @Jokerloungekl

the Bar kinugaWa

This Japanese cocktail bar stocks some rare Japanese whiskies. A gem in a neighbourhood mall. Also serves classic cocktails and light Japanese bites.

6pm – 3am Closed sundays

112, Empire Damansara, Heritage Lane, No 2, Jalan PJU 8/8A, Damansara Perdana, 47820 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia. +603 7611 0153 @thebarkl1

penang Johor Dine restaurant & the single Cask Bar Restaurant in Puteri Harbor with a wide selection of wine, cocktails and over 150 whisky expressions. Serves European food.

Whisky bar in the Colonial designed boutique hotel serves up single cask whisky, the first and only in Penang.

5pm – 1am Daily

228, Jalan Macalister, 11400 George Town, Pulau Pinang, Malaysia. +604 228 3888 @macalistermansion.com

11am - 11pm Daily

14, Lower Ground, Little Red Cube, Persiaran Puteri Selatan, Puteri Harbour, 79100 Nusajaya, Johor, Malaysia. +607 553 9964 @dine.com.my

Whisky house

Have sashimi, yakitori, Japanese noodles, rice desserts to go with the selection of Japanese and Scotch whiskies.

Specially catered as a safe place to hangout for the ladies, the bar houses over 100 labels of whisky with a good cocktail menu and regular live music.

11.30am – 2.30pm; 5pm – 1am Daily

11pm - 2am Daily

torii

the Den @ MaCalister Mansion

The Den @ Macalister Mansion

Mish Mash penang

A bistro in the heart of Georgetown serving local and European meals with beer, craft cocktails and over 80 different variety of whiskies from around the world.

8, Jalan Batai, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. +603 2011 3798

B3, 1, Jalan Molek 1, Taman Molek, 81100 Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia. +6015 4876 6666

5pm – 1am Closed Mondays

@torii.my

@whiskyhousejb

@mishmashpg

24, Jalan Muntri, 10200 George Town, Pulau Pinang, Malaysia. +6017 536 5128

whisky trends to watch By SJ Zheng

rom Scotch to bourbon, Japanese to Irish, there is no doubt that whisky (or whiskey) is one of the biggest spirit categories in the world. In recent times, the category has experienced a worldwide boom, leading to an industry that is constantly evolving to keep up with global demand. With that, several notable trends have emerged within the whisky world.

non-aGe statement scotch

There is no denying it anymore – non-age statement (NAS) whiskies are here to stay. They may argue that what matters is the flavour of the whisky, not the age, that is most important, but the fact is more and more whisky producers are coming up with NAS bottlings these days largely to cope with the rising demand for whisky worldwide. While many of the established brands still retain the age statements on their core ranges, many have released NAS I don’t remember, How old are does it matter? expressions you? Like 20? as well – Glenlivet, for instance, recently launched the Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve, which could well replace its core 12-Year-Old bottling in the future. Over in Japan, the two biggest producers of whiskies there, Suntory and Nikka, have already taken

the age statements off most of their bottlings. In fact, NAS bottlings are becoming such a trend right now that it’s become a tendency for some distilleries to declare that they will NEVER take away the age statement. During a visit to Kuala Lumpur last year, Glen Grant master distiller Dennis Malcolm defiantly claimed that as long as he worked there, it will always have a core range of whiskies with an age statement. And in a strange plot twist, Johnnie Walker actually renamed their Platinum Label to the Johnnie Walker 18-YearOld!

the rise of the irish

Ireland was the country that invented whiskey, and was once the largest producer of the spirit in the world. However, it fell by the wayside for a variety of reasons and historical circumstances. Recently though, Irish whiskey is going through a renaissance that has seen it become the fastest growing spirit category in the world. A recent Wall Street Journal article reported that Irish whiskey has grown worldwide at a staggering 131% over the past decade compared to Scotch’s relatively modest 13%. At the tail end of 2016, it was estimated that there are more than 30 new distilleries being built or planned at the time. With new distilleries like Teeling Whiskey at its forefront and established brands like Jameson attempting to diversify its portfolio, these are exciting times for Irish whiskey. Perhaps one of the clearest signs of the

coming Irish whiskey revolution is Diageo’s attempt to get back into the sector, two years after selling one of the category’s jewels, Bushmills, to Mexican company Jose Cuevo. Diageo recently launched a new brand, Roe And Co, and is currently building a new distillery in Dublin.

the new world catches up

Ireland is not the only one that is on the up. Whiskies from other countries have also started to trickle out into the market. Japanese, Canadian, Australian, and American whiskies are already well-established, but what’s surprising is how quickly whiskies from other countries are also getting a foot in the door. Taiwan’s Kavalan, for instance, has been a massive success, winning numerous awards, and expanding its reach far beyond Taiwan and Asia – it recently announced that it will be releasing five new bottles in the US this year. In terms of volume, India is the largest consumer of whisky in the world, though much of it is domestic ‘whiskey’ derived from molasses. The country does produce single malt whisky as well though, mainly through two brands – Amrut and Paul John, both of which have also been getting a good reputation overseas. With whisky distilleries popping up everywhere, from Iceland and South Africa to Belgium and Switzerland, don’t be surprised if your next favourite whisky isn’t from Scotland or Japan.

William Grant and Sons’ Monkey Shoulder has already been a huge success since it was launched in 2005, while last year, Johnnie Walker recently reinstated the previously discontinued (except in Taiwan) Green Label back into its core range. Not to be left out, Chivas Brothers launched its first ever blended malt brand, Chivas Ultis, last year.

GettinG experimental

With the shift towards NAS whiskies, distilleries will be looking to make their products stand out more to make up for the lack of an age statement. This could lead to more experimental whiskies or more unique bottlings in the market. For example, Glenmorangie and Ardbeg have released bottlings that experiment with unique cask finishes via the Glenmorangie Private Editions and the annual Ardbeg Day limited edition bottlings (the recent one, Ardbeg Kelpie, was aged in virgin Black Sea oak casks). Glenfiddich also recently launched their own experimental series, with two expressions – the Glenfiddich XX (a blend of malts chosen by 20 of the distillery’s brand ambassadors) and Glenfiddich IPA (finished in casks that previously held IPA beer). Some distilleries have been looking at other ways to influence their spirit, for instance, the barley – Bruichladdich has whiskies made from 100% Islay-grown barley, while Springbank has its Local Barley series. Even Johnnie Walker is coming up with experiments of its own via the Blender’s Batch series, which sees master blender Jim Beveridge and his team experimenting with different cask finishes and flavours in limited edition bottlings. As Scotch Blended whisky may still be Scotch’s biggest continues to grow, seller, but with increasingly discerning whisky look out for more such drinkers demanding more malt whisky, blended ‘experiments’ in the malt (a blend of only malt whiskies) could be future. It’s an exciting another way for distilleries to go. Also known time to be a whiskyas “pure malt” in Japan, the category may still drinker, so don’t let a be rather small compared to single malt and number (or the lack blended whisky, but that could change in the of one) on the bottle future. limit your choices!

more malt-ernatives

TEA STORY â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CHRONOLOGICAL TEA FUN FACTS

By Beth Fields

LEGEND

Legend has it that tea was first discovered in China in early 2700 BC. The Emperor Shen Nung was about to drink his morning bowl of hot water when tea leaves blew into his dish from a nearby tree. He was a curious man and well versed in Chinese medicine which used many plants and herbs. He sampled the tinted water and found it to have a pleasant taste.

In 500 AD, tea was considered a medicinal drink. It was enjoyed for its restorative properties due to the caffeine content. Tea leaves were thought to be an antidote to eating poisonous plants. The harvesting process of loose tea leaves was so varied and difficult that a legend developed in a small village in China. The

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legend says that the villagers would taunt the monkeys that lived in the tea bushes. The monkeys would get so angry that they would hurl tea leaves at the villagers, thus making it easier for them to harvest the tea. The popularity of tea spread to Japan and Mongolia. It became a favorite drink for royalty. As the availability increased and prices went down, it was soon included at every meal.

BUTTER TEA

People began to add sweeteners, spices, fruit and onions to their tea. In the frigid regions of Mongolia, people began to make a high calorie tea called butter tea. Butter tea is made with salt and yak butter, which is still consumed today.

TEA CURRENCY

Tea was once pressed into blocks and used as a form of currency. This was particularly popular among people who lived a long way from any cities or towns.

VICTORIAN TEA DRINKING

By the 1500’s tea use had spread to European royalty. The Dutch East India Company began tea imports to England in the late 1600’s. By the mid 1700’s, tea was cherished all over Europe. Later on, French and German physicians called for a ban of tea, saying it was harmful. In the early 18th century, opponents to tea claimed that it lead to moral decay.

POISON

The original colonists brought the love of tea with them when they landed on Plymouth Rock in the Americas. At first, only the wellto-do could afford the imported tea. The first tea was sold publicly in a small Massachusetts store around 1690. Tea remained the most popular beverage for over two hundred years.

St. Louis World’s Fair held for 8 months, was attended by nearly 19.7 million people from more than 60 countries.

ICED TEA

Iced tea was created by a man named Richard Blechynden. He added ice chunks to hot tea to cool off visitors to the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904. The idea was a huge success and more than doubled tea consumption in the United States. Today, iced tea is more popular than hot tea in the USA.

TEA BAG

The first tea bags were created by accident. In 1908, a man from New York, named Thomas Sullivan was looking for a way to allow his clients to sample the tea he was selling. He packaged tea in small silk draw bags which his clients mistakenly used to make the tea with. The rest is history.

INSTANT TEA

Instant tea was invented in the 1930’s. It didn’t become popular until the 1950’s when manufacturers began adding other flavors, such as lemon and sugar, to the tea.

CANNED TEA

Japan, in an effort to make tea consumption easier for people when they were away from home, introduced canned tea in 1981. This opened the global market for sales of canned and bottled teas. Tea is consumed worldwide. Every country has a preferred way to prepare tea. India, with its spiced teas, is the largest tea consuming nation. In Africa, tea is poured from up to two feet above the cup to increase oxidation. In Taiwan, they drink black tea mixed with tapioca balls (or pearls) and sweetened condensed milk, called Bubble Tea. In the southern United States, sweet iced tea is served in restaurants and diners.

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JAPAN KYOTO

BEER KOMACHI

A small shop with an extensive selection of Japanese beer in bottles and on tap. Shop front is covered with a top down plastic sheet. Serves Japanese beer bites according to what’s available daily from the market. OPERATING HOURS

Mon, Wed- Fri: 5–11pm; Sat-Sun: 3–11pm; Tuesday: Closed ADDRESS 444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto-fu 605-0027, Japan. PHONE +81 75 746 6152 WEBSITE

beerkomachi.com

BEERBAR MIYAMA162 With a small window overlooking Kamo River, this quirky little bar serves craft beer from Kyoto and Nagano. The bar is manned by two young and energetic bartenders, Ken and Mami. Western style bar food such as sausages and mash, olive oil and bread are on the menu.

5pm – 1am, Daily ADDRESS 232, Nakagyo-ku, Nabeyacho, Kyoto-shi, 604-8015, Japan. PHONE +81 75 256 1626 OPERATING HOURS

FACEBOOK

BeerBarMiyama162

LEN KYOTO KAWARAMACHI Located at the ground level of Len Hostel, the bar has a full on restaurant menu, and serves locally brewed craft beer on draught, an international bottled beer selection, coffee and cocktails. The café and bar has a “hipster chill” vibe and is a popular hangout for locals and foreigners alike. OPERATING HOURS

8am – 10pm Daily (Café); 5pm – 12am Daily (Bar) ADDRESS 709-3, Uematsucho, Shimogo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 600-8028, Japan. PHONE +81 75 361 1177 WEBSITE

backpackersjapan.co.jp

NISHIKI MARKET Known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen”, the 400-year-old market sells everything from traditional Japanese food and ingredients, sweets, teas and sakes, fresh seafood and yakitori to beauty products. A recommended must is to buy fresh sashimi to take away or eat at the tables along the store fronts. Most stalls have a serving station and seasoning for on-site eating. OPERATING HOURS

9:30am–6pm,;

Closed Sundays WEBSITE

kyoto-nishiki.or.jp

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TOKYO

BAR BENFIDDICH Hiroyasu Kayama coined the name of his bar from Ben and the second part of “Glenfiddich”, Hiro’s favourite single malt whisky. “Ben” in Scottish refers to the hills as opposed to “Glen” which refers to the valley. Absinthe is the favourite spirit used in this bar and cocktails are prepared using a combination of traditional Japanese culinary and western mixing techniques. Suribachi and surikogi, smoke gun and lantern are common tools at the bar.

6pm – 3am; Closed Sundays ADDRESS 1 3-7 1 Chome, Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo 1600023, Japan. PHONE +81 36 279 4223 OPERATING HOURS

HITACHINO BREWING LAB TOKYO STATION This is the latest brew lab at Tokyo Station, Yaesu exit (the first one being in Kanda). Other than the standard brews by Hitachino, this bar also serves their seasonal releases and otsumami dishes (snacks equivalent to tapas) in jars to go with the beers. Hitachino has now expanded to the US where their San Francisco outlet will be open in Spring 2017. OPERATING HOURS

11am – 11pm

Daily

BarBenfiddich

HIGHBURY Owner Kohei Ando is an Arsenal Football team fan and used to work for Thornbridge Brewery in the UK. Highbury houses everything Kohei loves about beer and football, with Arsenal memorabilia, books and souvenirs all around the bar.

5pm – 12am (Mon-Fri); 1pm – 10pm (Sat-Sun) ADDRESS 1F 1-17-5 Shinjyuku Shinjyu-ku, Tokyo 160-0022, Japan. PHONE +81 36 273 2550 OPERATING HOURS

1-9-1, Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0005, Japan. PHONE +81 3 6551 2515 ADDRESS

WEBSITE

FACEBOOK

hitachino.cc

SPIRITS BAR SUNFACE SHINJUKU “Don” Koji Esashi is the winner of the first Jose Cuervo cocktail competition in 2015, earning him the title “Don of Tequila”. With this, Koji travelled to Mexico, handpicked his favourite agave and bottled his own blend of tequila under his own name with Jose Cuervo. Now only available at his bar along with tequila and whiskey based cocktails.

6pm – 2am; Closed Sundays ADDRESS 10th Floor, 1-13- 7 Maebaranishi, Funabashi-shi, Chiba-ken 274-0825, Japan. PHONE +81 3 6302 0809 OPERATING HOURS

FACEBOOK

bar.sunface.shinjuku

WEBSITE

highbury-international.com

NAGI RAMEN SHINJUKU GOLDEN GAI Find a tiny door with a narrow staircase up to this restaurant that serves niboshi (dried baby sardines) broth ramen. The outlet can only fit 8 customers with 1 chef behind the kitchen who prepares your rich fish flavour noodles and the other taking orders. Most customers take away but if you get a seat, it’s an experience you can’t miss while in Shinjuku. OPERATING HOURS

Open 24 hours

daily 2F, 1-1-10 Kabukicho, Shinjuku, Tokyo 160-0021, Japan. PHONE +81 3 6304 0399 ADDRESS

WEBSITE

n-nagi.com

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OSAKA

RECOMMENDED

YEARLY EVENT SEASONAL – CHICHIBU WHISKY MATSURI The one day event held in a shrine attracts thousands of whisky enthusiasts, mostly from within Japan. There are exhibitors from international brands and also Japanese independent bottlings, a popular trade in the country. OPERATING HOURS

CRAFT BEER BASE BUD Enter the building and take the escalator down to the happening bars area. This bar is amidst some interesting lady bars. They have an extensive list of imported and Japanese craft beers and kitchen serves Japanese tapas. Their third bar Seed is now open and has a garden.

Advanced ticket: 3,000 yen; On-the-day: 5,000 yen ADDRESS

Chichibu shrine

FACEBOOK

chichibu.whisky.matsuri

OPERATING HOURS

3pm – 11pm (Mon – Thu); 11.30am- 11.30pm (Sat – Sun) ADDRESS B2F, 3, 1 Chome, Umeda, 1, Kita Ward, Osaka 530-0001, Japan. PHONE +81 75 561 2257 WEBSITE

craftbeerbase.com

BEER BELLY Located in a building by the river, Beer Belly serves as the taproom for Minoh Brewery, pouring the Minoh range as well as rotating guest taps and, interestingly, real ales pulled through a hand pump. They also brews their own beer in small batches onsite. Western/ Japanese beer food is available and have a second outlet in Ikedacho. OPERATING HOURS

5pm-2am (Mon-Fri); 3pm - 11pm (Sat-Sun) ADDRESS Bridge Building 1st Floor, 1 Chome, 3, 1 Tosabori, Nishi Ward, Osaka 550-0001, Japan. PHONE +81 6 6441 0717 WEBSITE

beerbelly.jp

BEST PLACE TO BUY ALCOHOLIC SOUVENIRS Shinanoya Shokuhin co., Ltd With a comprehensive list of alcoholic beverages and accessories, snacks, books and sometimes a tasting corner, this alcohol chain-store offers an all-round experience to drinkers. Find rare gems including exclusive Shinanoya bottlings at exceptionally competitive prices in the shops that you can’t find elsewhere. OPERATING HOURS

Check individual city. WEBSITE

shinanoya.co.jp

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WHISKY BACON JAM Recipe provided by Chad Merchant

INGREDIENTS 1½ pounds (0.7kg) sliced bacon, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces 2 medium yellow onions, diced small 3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled ½ cup cider vinegar ½ cup orange juice 1 teaspoon orange zest ½ cup packed dark-brown sugar ¼ cup pure maple syrup ¼ teaspoon ground ginger ¾ cup brewed coffee

INSTRUCTIONS

Slice the bacon into 1/2 inch Add coffee, vinegar, orange 1Dutch strips. Add the bacon to a large 4 juice, maple syrup, brown sugar, oven over medium-high orange zest and ginger. Reduce the heat.

heat and simmer for 45 minutes.

pan and drain on a paper towel lined plate. Set bacon aside. Leave 2 Tablespoons of bacon grease in the pot, pour off the rest.

Pour everything back into the 6minutes. pan and cook for another 15 Add the whisky and

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onions and garlic and cook until the onions begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Keep the onion mixture moving so the garlic does not burn. Return the bacon to the pan.

jam should be thick and 7thickThe syrupy. (If the jam gets too at any point, add 1/4 cup of

Cook the bacon until it gets Transfer to a food processor 2minutes. brown and crisp, 10 to 12 5 and pulse until everything is Take the bacon out of the finely chopped.

simmer for 5 minutes longer.

water to thin it out. Take off the heat and let cool slightly. Transfer to jars. This jam will keep in the fridge for 3 to 4 weeks.

¼ cup whisky

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28/5/2017 11:23:51 PM

A BEER

IMPORTER’S MEMOIR

From freight terminologies to how beer reacts when being shipped in a dry container versus a refrigerated container, this was all very alien to us. By Alvin Lim

t all started 5 years ago over a few drinks when my cousins and I decided that we should open a bar, but we did not know what sort of a bar this was going to be. Then early one morning I received a phone call from Aaron. “We are going to open a craft beer bar!” Back then there were no dedicated craft beer bars that we could look to locally to see if craft beer would be an easy sell and of course no local importer that we could buy the beers from. It became obvious that we had to import the beers ourselves as well. Apart from setting up our first outlet, we needed to learn how to import alcohol from various countries. We had to contact the breweries to find out what was required to enable us to import their products into Malaysia. From freight terminologies to how beer reacts when being shipped in a dry container versus a refrigerated container, this was all very alien to us. As with all businesses there are bound to be challenges starting up. We needed a coldroom warehouse to keep the beers, and these things are not cheap. We also had to apply for multiple business licenses just to start trading, license for housing alcohol and license for distributing alcohol. And as you can imagine, these licenses were not easy to obtain. It was certainly difficult in the beginning but we managed to survive and get through our first order of a full 20 foot container from Australia. That was a lot of beer as we soon found out when the container arrived and we could not sell the beers at our outlet fast enough. So the next logical step was to start distributing and that was about to prove to be a daunting task too.

One of the biggest problems we face when importing direct from breweries is that we have to pre plan our orders months in advance. It normally takes about 4 to 6 weeks for the container to arrive and a month to finalise the order with the brewery, but we also have to add the time it takes for us to clear Customs. That’s the part where the timeline isn’t fixed. It can be a week, it can be 3 weeks or at times a month or so. This will disrupt our supply to our distributed outlets and also our cashflow. Let me remind you that most of the breweries do not do credit terms. It’s cash before shipment, the beers will not leave the brewery if the full amount hasn’t been paid. After all the groundwork had been done, we needed to sell these craft beers to café’s, restaurants and supermarkets. This was another challenge because it was as difficult as trying to sell a fridge to an Eskimo. Nobody knew what craft beer was and why these beers were more expensive than even the imported German beers. We had to go door to door with samples and try convincing outlets that these are great products but because they were comparatively expensive, nobody would pick them up. Is it much easier importing and selling beers now compared to what it was when we started? Well, there are the good days and the bad days. Up until today we still face some of the same problems that we faced when we first started, such as stock being held up at Customs for no apparent reason and the time it takes for us to clear Customs and sent to our warehouse. Some friends will always ask why are we still doing it? We do it because we love craft beer and we are addicted to the process. We do not see ourselves doing (or drinking) anything else. Welcome to the craft beer revolution.

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28/5/2017 11:32:20 PM

SPIRITS WHETHER YOU ARE AÂ SEASONED DRINKER OR HAVE YET TO TRY PEATY WHISKY, FIND THE EXPRESSION THAT SUITS YOU.

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28/5/2017 11:33:06 PM

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23/2/2017 7:41:02 PM