This is Ecuador July 2015 by One for One

JULY 2015

CONTENTS

Welcome to Ecuador 5 Tourism News 7 General Travel Information 8 Land Distances 10 Road Map 11 Made in Ecuador Fine Aroma Cacao 12 Native Cultures 14 Map 15 National Protected Areas 16 Map 17 A Birder’s Paradise 20 This Month’s Festivities Inti Raymi 22 Corpus Christi 23 History & Archaeology 24 Galapagos General information 26 Map 27 This Month’s Main Events 31 Premium Hotels 32 Premium Services 33 Coast General information 34 Ecuadorian Coastline 35 Map 37 Premium Services 39 Guayaquil 40 This Month’s Agenda 46 Map 48 Premium Hotels 50 Restaurants & Cafeterías 53

Andes General information 55 Premium Haciendas 56 Northern Andes 58 Map 59 Premium Services 61 Quito 62 This Month’s Agenda 72 Premium Services 74 Premium Hotels 75 Map 76 Restaurants 84 Food & Drinks 86 Central Andes 87 Map 88 Premium Hotels 90 Southern Andes 92 Map 93 Cuenca 95 Premium Handicrafts 99 Cuenca’s surroundings 100 Premium Restaurants 101 Map 102 Premium Hotels 104 Loja 106 Premium Hotels 107 Map 108 Amazonia General information 110 Important tips and recommendations 111 Premium Lodging 112 Napo Wildlife Center 113 Embassies & Consulates List 114 Ecuador by Train 116 3

PUBLISHED MONTHLY by Gustavo Vallejo P. Director Carolina Vallejo cover CRISTINA VALLEJO Editor XIMENA BURBANO Sales Director ventas@thisisecuador.com 09 8425 2604 BELEN MENA Design SOLUCIONES GRAFICAS D&G Layout IMPRENTA MARISCAL Printing

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Illustration inspired by humpback whales, which visit the Ecuadorian Coast during the months of the Austral winter (June- October). Don´t miss the opportunity of whale-watching, a unique spectacle! For more information, see page 7.

This is Ecuador is protected by law as intellectual property. Registration No. 9, page 3422; February 25, 1969. Total or partial reproduction as well as the use of photographs must be authorized by Gustavo Vallejo Pérez. Quito: Whymper 777 y 6 de Diciembre Phone: (593 2) 290-8200 / 255-2177 Guayaquil Edificio Trade Building Of. M24 Av. Joaquín Orrantia & Av. Leopoldo Benítez Phone: (593 4) 263-9214 (593 9) 9858-4053 info@thisisecuador.com www.exploringecuador.com Visit our website and virtual magazine at: www.thisisecuador.com

Editor’s Note This is Ecuador is a complimentary guide. It should not be sold by any means. All of the tourist sites that appear on this magazine have been visited by our editors. Moreover, our commercial staff has previously evaluated the tourist services that appear on our publication. If any of these services does not meet your expectations, please let us know. Read our entire guide at www.thisisecuador.com. You can learn about our wonderful country and book premium services through our e-guide. Comments/suggestions: info@thisisecuador.com Phone number in Quito: (593 2) 290- 8200 We appreciate your opinion.

Ecuador has the greatest biodiversity per area in the world! In a study by Conservation International, Ecuador ranked among the 17 “Mega Diverse” countries, alongside the United States, China, Australia, Brazil and Mexico. With 9.2 species per km2, it occupies the first place in the world in regards to species per area. The richness of Ecuador lies in its DIVERSITY, both natural and cultural. Ecuador has 4 diverse and unique regions: the Amazon Rainforest, the highland Andes, the Coast, and the Galapagos Archipelago. These four regions are subdivided into provinces. Besides its exuberant biodiversity, Ecuador is home to an impressive variety of ethnic groups, including communities which still practice ancient cultural traditions (for more information see page 14).

LOCATION: Ecuador is one of the smallest countries in America. It lies on both the Northern and the Southern Hemispheres and is divided by the Equator, thus the name of the country. It borders Colombia (North), Peru (South and East), and the Pacific Ocean (West).

AREA: about 270.670 km2 or 168.186 square miles.

DISTANCE FROM NORTH TO SOUTH: 1.081 km or 672 miles. POPULATION:

million.

approximately 14

LANGUAGE: The first language is

Spanish, however, most of the indigenous population speaks Quichua. There are 18 different languages among native communities.

PROVINCES:

- Galapagos - Coast: Esmeraldas, Manabi, Los Rios, Guayas, Santa Elena, El Oro. - Andes: Carchi, Imbabura, Pichincha, Santo Domingo de los Tsáchilas, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Bolivar, Chimborazo, Cañar, Azuay and Loja. - Amazonia: Sucumbios, Napo, Orellana, Pastaza, Morona Santiago and Zamora Chinchipe.

RELIGION: 95% Catholic. CURRENCY:

American Dollar. The Ecuadorian government has also produced a series of local coins that have the same value as the U.S. coins (which are also accepted). Banks are open from 9h00 to 17h00 and on Saturdays only half day. Money exchange is offered every day in main hotels.

GOVERNMENT:

Democratic. Current President is Economist Rafael Correa Delgado.

CLIMATE: The climate throughout the country ranges from tropical equatorial rain in the Amazon to perpetual snow on the top of the mountains. Cities in the highlands have temperatures that vary from 50ºF to 70ºF, while coastal cities’ temperatures vary from 60ºF to 80ºF during the day. The weather in the jungle is constant: rainy, humid and warm. The Galapagos Islands are sunny and warm during the months of December-May; the temperature drops from June to November. WHAT TO WEAR:

• In Quito and the highlands the weather is very unpredictable. A common saying is that you can live the four seasons in one day: from intense sun to hail. One needs to look out the window before deciding what to wear each day. During June, July and August the weather is sunnier but windy. During the rest of the year you need warmer clothing such as what you would wear during the fall. A raincoat or jacket is useful all year long, since at night it gets pretty chilly. 5

• Guayaquil and other coastal cities: wear summer clothing all year round. During the rainy months, December to May, the weather is still very warm. During the months of June through November the weather is cloudy and a bit colder. Bring along a light jacket. • Galapagos: wear comfortable walking shoes and casual clothing. Shorts, t-shirts and summer clothing will be just fine. Don’t forget a hat, a camera, sun block, and a bathing suit. During the months of June to November the weather is cloudy and a bit colder. Bring along a light jacket. • Amazon or Jungle: wear clothing suitable for rain. If you can get yourself a raincoat (poncho), take it with you, as well as several sets of light pants and long sleeve shirts. Shorts are less useful because of the insects and abundant vegetation that you will walk through on your excursions. A hat, rubber boots and insect repellent are also a must.

TOURIST VISA: Visitors can stay up to 90 days without a visa.

TAXI RATES:

The minimum rate throughout the country is $1,50. A 10minute ride is approximately $4 to $8, depending on the distance covered in this time.

TRANSPORTATION: Main cities (Guayaquil, Quito and Cuenca) have local airports serviced by the local airlines: Tame, Aerogal and Lan, in addition to international airlines. Bus lines offer land transportation throughout the coutry. Each city has its own terminal, with frequent departures to each one of the different provinces of Ecuador (For more information see page 8). 6

SUGGESTIONS FOR A PLEASANT STAY While the authorities are clearly making significant efforts, it’s necessary to take some precautions. We suggest some recommendations: • Don’t walk at night in badly lit areas. • Leave documentation and valuable things in your hotel room or in the safety deposit boxes. • Carry your backpack at the front, especially if you are carrying a photo camera. • Whenever you sit at a coffee shop, restaurant, Internet cafe, phone booth or any open space, keep your things next to you. • Be aware if someone comes suspiciously too close to you. • Don’t allow any stranger to enter into your room. • It’s recommended not to visit any plaza too late at night. • If you travel on a bus, don’t receive any candy or papers from strangers. • When you are at the airport, pay special attention to your belon gings. • Be careful any time you go to an ATM; it’s better if you go during the day. • Don’t let strangers offer you accommodation. Consult a travel agency.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING

ASEGUIM is the association of mountain climbing guides of Ecuador. We recommend that if you plan to do mountain climbing at any level, you contact them to access professional and certified guides. They also offer rescue operations. Phone: (02) 2541563, cel 099 9619941. www.aseguim.org

OFFICE OF TOURISM PUBLIC PROSECUTOR: The highest duty of the Ecuadorian Republic is to respect and support human and personal rights; they offer judicial safety to tourists who visit the country. It is free. Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to 12h00 and from 14h00 to 18h00. Quito: 02 2905-053 Guayaquil: 04 2320-685 Cuenca: 07 2844-282 Galapagos, Santa Cruz Island: 05 2526-048 Loja: 07 2572-668 Puyo: 03 2883-767

MAIN NATURAL EVENTS WHALE - WATCHING SEASON

HUMPBACK WHALES OFF THE ECUADORIAN COAST Every year during the austral winter (June-October), humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) migrate from the Antarctic to tropical waters off Ecuador and Colombia for breeding. The reason why these whales look for Ecuadorian waters to breed is because the calves need to be born in a warm environment, since they are born with a thin isolating layer. Humpback whales are dark with a great variety of white areas on the ventral part and flippers. They have the largest flippers of all the whales, almost a third part of their body’s length. With 12-15 meters in length and more than 30 tons of weight, humpbacks are the most acrobatic and spectacular of the bigger whales. They like to breach out the water or hit repetitively the surface with their flipper or flukes. It is believed that the sound produced in this form could be used for communications purposes. Humpback whales are also well known as the singer whales during the

breeding season. Males take a vertical position head down and “sing” a complex sound repertory. These songs are structured in themes and can last 20 minutes or more. Singers can repeat the song once and again for hours. All the whales around sing a similar song, although the song is changing as the season progresses. The meaning of the songs is probably related to the reproduction process. The whales that can be found off the Ecuadorian coast belong to one of six Southern hemisphere stocks that were severely exploited during the first half of the XX century. However, recent studies at the central coast off Ecuador show that the southeastern Pacific

humpback whale stock, to which Ecuadorian whales belong, is recovering significantly. During the breeding season it is possible to find these whales almost in every site along the central and northern coast of the country. Since 1994, whale watching has become a popular activity among the tourists that visit the Machalilla National Park and other sites of the Ecuadorian coast. The activity is steadily increasing, as well as the concern about the whales’ welfare. Text by: Fernando Felix. Photographs: Cristina Castro – Pacific Whale Foundation

GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

LAND DISTANCES (KM) www.budget-ec.com

MADE IN ECUADOR Fine Aroma Cacao Tied to Ecuador’s History

Fine aroma cacao has been tied to Ecuadorian history for millenniums. Recent scientific studies show evidence not only of its early presence, but of its cultivation and consumption by the inhabitants of the South East of what is now Ecuador over 5.000 years ago. A cooperation agreement between the Institute of Scientific Investigation for Development (IRD, from France), and the Ecuadorian National Institute of Cultural Heritage (INPC) is carrying out an investigation in Palanda, Zamora Chinchipe (Ecuadorian Amazonia). Amongst other accomplishments, the project’s team placed in evidence a new archaeological culture

named Mayo-Chinchipe, located in Santa Ana - La Florida, 1.040 meters above sea level. In this culture, the use of cacao over 5.000 years ago (3.300 A.C)was confirmed. The use and domestication of cacao at Santa Ana- La Florida was evidenced by studies carried out at Calgary University, where they found vestiges of cacao at several ceramic recipients of this culture. The Mayo-Chinchipe Culture interacted with the Andean Region and the Pacific Coast, which is put in evidence by the presence of marine shells and marine snails.

igin in the high –Amazonia, in the area where the borders of Colombia, Ecuador and Peru meet. As an exotic product of symbolic and economic exchange, it was sent to far places both to the North and East. This is how cacao travels all the way from the Amazonia to the Maya and Aztec civilizations, where it was used both as currency and as a sacred beverage.

According to the investigator Juan Carlos Motamayor, Cacao has its or-

Cacao was exported from the Coast of the Audiencia de Quito since

Cacao is known in the Western world thanks to the Spanish that discovered it in Mexico. In 1528, Hernán Cortez introduced cacao into Spain.

the XVI Century. With the crisis of the textiles, cacao became an even more important part of the economy. The first Cacao Boom was produced between 1780 and 1820. Since the end of the XIX Century until the beginning for World War I, Ecuador lived a time of opulence known as the era of the “pepa de oro” (gold seed). Large haciendas belonged to a few families, known as the “Grand Cacao”, who had great economic and political power. The second decade of the XX century was the beginning of the end of the “Boom Cacaotero”. In 1916 there was a plague and then World War I meant a reduction in the international demand. At the same time, the English, French and Dutch colonies in Africa also increased their production of cacao. The era of the Boom left a number of farmers that have the knowledge of the cultivation of cacao and have transmitted it for generations. Ecuador is still the first producer of Fine Aroma Cacao, and exports to such demanding markets as those of Switzerland, Italy, Belgium, USA and Japan.

And now, Ecuador not only exports its premium cacao, but is also producing excellent chocolates. Such is the case of the brand PACARI, which has won several international recognitions. With five gold medals and one silver in the category of dark chocolate bars, PACARI became the main winner at the prestigious contest International Chocolate Awards World Final 2014, which takes place in London every year. The World Final judged the Gold, Silver and Bronze winners from around 950 products entered into the European and Americas

Semi-finals and Regional and National competitions in Germany / Austria / Switzerland, Scandinavia and Canada. PACARI works directly with small farmers to preserve traditional ways of cultivation and the genetic diversity of Ecuador’s cacao.

Photo and information source: Cacao El Fino Aroma de Nuestra Identidad, Ministerio Coordinador del Patrimonio, 2013.

NATIVE CULTURES ECUADOR MOSAIC

America, erroneously called the “new” world, has a rich and ancient cultural tradition that is known as pre-Columbian. The conquering Spaniards saw the ethnic groups that still inhabit Ecuador today as “primitive”. In fact many people have a hard time understanding Native American culture. The XVI century Spanish tried to eradicate indigenous beliefs and customs.

they maintain a way of life similar to that of their ancestors from over 5000 years ago. In Ecuador, when we speak of mega-diversity we speak not only of our magnificent biological world, but we also refer to the human factor. Our ethnic diversity is rich, with characteristics influenced by the natural environment of the Coast, the Highlands and the Rainforest.

Fortunately, many ethnic groups retain their traditional way of life and belief systems. In the colonial era, the Spaniards imposed Catholicism. To this day, many of the indigenous cultures have adopted this faith. However, they maintain their original language, dress and artistic expressions. Especially in the rain forest, many ethnic groups are still isolated and have little contact with Western culture, and to this day,

THE CULTURES OF THE COAST

The oldest known cultures of America lived on the Ecuadorian coast (8800 to 3500 B.C.). The cultures that subsist practically intact to this day are: the Awá, the Chachis or Cayapas and the Tsachilas or Colorados. They live in the tropical rainforest of the west Andes and possibly settled there after escaping from the Incan invasion from Peru (XV C) or from the Spaniards (XVI C).

THE AMAZONIAN CULTURES

Many archeologists maintain that some of the oldest cultures (over 10,000 years old) are actually from this tropical humid rainforest, impossible to reach for many centuries. In the “cosmology” of these indigenous groups, the human being is a part of the “Amazanga” (rainforest) and the human spirit wanders in this forest every dawn. The human spirit can enter an eagle or a serpent or a jaguar, each one a symbol for their nature, according to their beliefs. The rainforest provides their food, medicinal plants, and spiritual richness. To these people, the tropical rainforest is their home, their drugstore, their supermarket, and their church; thus their utmost respect for their environment. They are, according to modern world economical standards very poor.

However, they have a rich spiritual life and live in peace surrounded by their families, taking from nature only what they need for survival and taking time to meditate and enlighten themselves. To share a few days with them is an incredibly enriching experience.

THE HIGHLANDS

The cultures of the highlands are by no means the oldest, but they are the most visited and well known, probably

because of their geographical location with easy access by roads and highways. Many communities that live in the highlands still maintain their cultural manifestations through dress, language (Quichua), and festivities. Just 62 miles north of Quito you can visit the Otavalo Indian Market, a must see for any tourist that comes to Ecuador. This market offers wonderful weavings, tapestry, rugs, bags, artwork and other products made by the indigenous

community. These people are hardworking, skillful, and artistic. Families work together and then sell their work at the fair. Transactions take place quietly with bargaining on the side of the tourist. These are very proud people who have not lost their cultural identity despite the fact that mestizos and whites inhabit the city of Otavalo. The Otavale単os travel all around the world selling their goods.

NATIONAL PROTECTED AREAS AMAZING + DIVERSE

EL ALTAR: Courtesy of Miguel Dávila

WITH ITS RELATIVELY SMALL TERRITORY (109.483 SQUARE MILES), 0.17% OF THE PLANET’S LAND SURFACE, ECUADOR WAS RANKED ONE OF THE 17 MOST BIODIVERSE COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD. Ecuador holds more than 11% of all the land vertebrates in the world (mammals, birds, amphibians and reptiles), 16.087 vascular plant species and approximately 600 species of marine fish. There is still a lot to learn about Ecuador’s diversity, especially concerning invertebrates and microorganisms. Among the “mega diverse” countries, Ecuador holds the greatest biodiversity of land vertebrates per area. 16

WHAT IS THE REASON FOR ALL THIS DIVERSITY?

Firstly, the Andes mountain range dividing the country from North to South; secondly, Ecuador’s geographical location at the Tropic of Cancer, the warmest region of the planet; and finally, the influence of two oceanographic phenomenons: “El Niño”, the warm and humity current that comes from the North, and the “Humboldt” current, which comes from the South and is cold and dry. On the following pages, you will find a brief description of Ecuador’s National Parks. You can locate these Parks on the map on the following page. As you may see on the map, besides these

National Parks, Ecuador is home to an additional 21 National Protected Areas. The country also includes other important private protected areas and natural sites. Two of Ecuador’s National Parks were declared “World Heritage Natural Sites” by the UNESCO: the Galapagos Archipelago and the Sangay National Park (Amazonian region).

1. MACHALILLA

Located in the province of Manabí, Machalilla takes its name from one of the pre-Columbian cultures that inhabited this area. The Valdivia, Chorrera and Manteña Cultures also lived in this land of mild climate and extraordinary landscape. One can still visit archeological sites within the park..

feet) stands isolated from the rest of the Andes and is surrounded by lowland forest. This National Park is rich in animal species, including spectacle bear, bats, marsupials, armadillos, guams, and many bird, reptile and amphibian species. The most common plants found are cedar, canelo, and rubber trees. Native Indian Quichua communities and the archeological sites of the Cosanga culture are found close to this National Park. UNESCO declared the area surrounding the Sumaco volcano a “Biosphere Reserve” in the year 2000.

3. YASUNI

Machalilla We especially recommend Agua Blanca and Salango. The park occupies 136,000 acres. Its yearly average temperature is 75ºF. The influence of the Humboldt Current in the Pacific conserves the amazing tropical humid and dry tropical forests.

One of the main attractions of the park is “Isla de la Plata” (Silver Island). It was named at the end of the XVI century, when the pirate Francis Drake took treasures from Spanish ships and hid them on this site. “Plata” means silver, but it is also how Ecuadorians commonly refer to money. According to the legend, much of this treasure was never claimed and is still hidden here. The Island is surrounded by coral reefs, so the marine life is exciting and plentiful. You will find some excellent scuba-diving services here. The Island has two guided hiking routes, both with awesome sights. You will find a rare colony of blue-footed boobies, masked boobies, frigate birds and albatrosses, as well as interesting plant life. Guides are well versed on the subject. To visit the park, one must purchase a 5-day pass for a fee of 25 dollars. With this ticket you can visit all the sites of the National Park.

2. SUMACO-NAPO-GALERAS

Cotopaxi 18

With a surface of 507,181 acres, this National Park houses a wide diversity of ecosystems, ranging from high mountains to cloud and lowland forests. The park’s altitudes range from 1,968 to 12,792 feet. The Napo-Galeras mountain range has various rivers and springs running through its deep valleys. The Sumaco volcano (12,792

Yasuni is located in the Napo Province. With an extension of 2,426,281 acres, it is an important biogeographical area where endemic species of plants and animals have been preserved since the Pleistocene Period (20,000 BC). According to UNESCO, more than 700 plant species have been identified, together with 500 bird species and 200 different animals. The Napo River is the main access to the park. Recently, the Huaorani Indians who live here, together with environmentalists, have raised international awareness regarding the controversial petroleum exploration of this area.

4. COTOPAXI The Cotopaxi National Park is named after the highest active snow-capped volcano in the world (19,347 ft). It is located 37 miles from Quito. The Park includes 83,829 acres, and the altitude ranges from 11,152 ft to 19,347 ft above sea level. The Cotopaxi Volcano is one of the most important features of this park. It is the highest active volcano in the world. Adventurous professional mountain climbers are attracted to this site along with many tourists who take pride in attempting to reach the top. The volcano offers climbing experiences for all skill levels. The immense plain that surrounds the volcano offers a wonderful landscape with extraordinary geological conditions and numerous flora and fauna. This park is home to deer, pumas, condors, wild horses and llamas. The

Limpiopungo lagoon, located close to the Rumiñahui volcano (15,492 ft), is a good place for camping. The Pucará Ruins are an Incaic fortress that should be visited too. At the foot of Cotopaxi you will also find an Incan Palace built by Tupac Yupanqui in the XV century, turned into a monastery by the Catholic Augustinian Order in the XVII century. At this site you will enjoy an outstanding view of the volcanoes. Currently it houses a beautiful hacienda that offers excellent hotel facilities, Hacienda San Agustín de Callo (see page 57).

5. LLANGANATES This park is home to one of the most exotic and inaccessible regions in Ecuador. It includes rough moorlands, deep valleys, rivers, lagoons, and abundant waterfalls. Most of the park is covered by dense vegetation, and the weather is mostly cold and rainy. Cerro Hermoso (15,618 ft) is the highest mountain in the area. The most common animal species found are moorland rabbits, sacha (jungle) rabbit, and weasels. Other common species that are very difficult to spot are the spectacle bear, whitetailed deer, moorland deer, moorland fox, puma, deer, tapir, cock-of-therock, and the condor. Throughout history, explorers and adventurers have been attracted to this area in search of the elusive gold of Atahualpa, which according to legend is hidden in the Llanganates. Nobody has found the gold, however all visitors bear witness to the region’s mysteries, and keep the legend alive…

(16,452 ft.). These mountains offer excellent opportunities for hiking, trekking, and climbing. The Sangay Volcano is off limits because it is in permanent eruption, but you can get close enough to take spectacular photographs. Native indigenous communities live in this park: Quichua- Canelos in the north and Shuar in the south.

(Polylepis), romerillo, chachacoma, genciana, romerillo and the sarar. The Park also has some archeological Inca sites in the area of Molleturo, which historians believe to have been a ‘tambo’ (resting areas for the Inca couriers from Cuzco to Quito).

7. CAJAS

Podocarpus is located in both the Provinces of Loja and Zamora Chinchipe, with an extension of 351.436 acres. This park has two ecological zones, jungle and highland, both with great diversity of flora and fauna. Here you will find exotic orchids, bears, pumas, hummingbirds, toucans, woodpeckers and reptiles. It is the ideal place for botanical, ecological and zoological investigations. If you enjoy long walks, listening to the sounds of birds, running rivers, waterfalls and camping, then this is a place you shouldn’t miss.

This National Park is only 21 miles away from Cuenca. It ranges in altitude from 9,840 ft to 11,480 ft. Its 71,186acre area includes mountains and 232 glacial lagoons, connected to each other by small rivers and streams. Two of the rivers surrounding Cuenca, the Tomebamba and the Yanuncay, begin in this area. Cajas is home to mammals such as the white-tailed deer, spectacle bear, puma, paramo deer, paramo rabbit, and the Andean tapir. Some of the most important bird species found here are the caracara, the condor, the Andean toucan and spectacle duck. The most common vegetation includes: chuquiragua, paramo grasses, yagual

8. PODOCARPUS

Photos Courtesy of Miguel Dávila, Marco Cruz & Ministry of Tourism

6. SANGAY Tungurahua, Chimborazo and Morona Santiago and has an extension of 671,654 acres. Take the Pan-American Highway to Riobamba. When you reach Alao you may ask for tourist information at the park’s administration centercorrect paths for mountain climbing, horse rental, etc. There are three main mountains in this park: Sangay (17,154 ft.), Altar (17,446 ft.), and Tungurahua

Cajas 19

A BIRDER’S PARADISE

The Cloud Forest: A Dream Destination for Birdwatchers The slopes of the Andes are dressed with this wonderful ecosystem, also called “Andean brow” due to its generous vegetation. The cloud forest looks like a mossy jungle with tall trees decorated with orchids, mosses, bromeliad, and other epiphytes. Many of its characteristics are similar to that of the rain forest. However, as it is not flat but on a slope, the sunrays are able to penetrate deeper inside the forest, thus giving rise to exuberant and unique life forms. The cloud forest is one of the richest ecosystems of the world in bird and plant species. 20

This ecosystem includes many species from the rain forest, some from the highlands, and others that have evolved to its unique conditions. Some of the most impressive bird species of the cloud forest are: Cock of the Rock, Toucan Barbet, an abundance of Hummingbirds, Tanagers, Mountain Toucans, Cotingas, Manakins, and many others. The vegetation is also surprisingly rich. Numerous epiphyte species, including bounteous orchids and bromeliads, inhabit these slopes. Currently it is believed by many scientists that the largest number of orchid species is found in this ecosystem, many of which remain undiscovered or unlabeled. Apart from the hundreds of bird species recorded for both sites, they shelter other rare animal species such as the Andean spectacle bear, which is rarely seen but is one of the most impressive animal species of the Andes. The cloud forest

is a unique ecosystem: a paradise for nature lovers and scientists... Take an adventure into an area of exuberant and little explored biodiversity!

Mashpi Cloud Forest Biodiversity Reserve 310 bird species identified so far and many more to come across 2,600-acre reserve just 3 hours northwest of Quito, Ecuador 307, 308, 309, 310... That’s the number of bird species recorded so far at the Mashpi Biodiversity Reserve – and if the biologist in residence is correct, the count is only just past halfway there. Located 3 hours northwest of historic Quito, the ecological preserve is a dream destination for birdwatching, with designer accommodations for up to 44 guests and abundant opportunities for doing what birders do

best. Situated on 3,200 acres between 1,800 and 4,500 feet above sea level, the Mashpi Reserve stretches across lowland floodplain forests and lower montane – or “foothill” – forest. The range of altitudes and dead-on proximity to the Equator create exquisite habitat for a high number of endemic species including, of course, birds. Mashpi’s resident Wildlife Project Coordinator, Carlos Morochz Andrade, and his team are working daily on gaining knowledge of the forest ecology and its relationship to bird behavior and distribution. They estimate that anywhere from 400-500 bird species inhabit the forest – many residing in remote sections at lower and higher elevations that have yet to be tracked. Ah, but many forested areas have been tracked already, resulting in splendid finds: Indigo Flowerpiercer, Black Solitare, Chocó Vireo, Banded Ground-Cuckoo, Yellow-Green Bush Tanager, Moss-backed Tanager, Blacktipped Cotinga and other rare and endemic species. The biological team

has also sought out “leks” – gathering places for male avians where elaborate courtship displays of garish plumage and performance unfold. Four leks have been found to date – two of Long-Wattled Umbrellabird and one each of Andean Cock-of-the-Rock and Club-Winged Manakin – all perfect for study by biologists and for sightings by guests. Guests also have the chance to observe and photograph 13 of the Reserve’s 25 species of Hummingbirds in the wild, many of which feed around a handsome shelter close to the Reserve’s entrance and at the Life Center. Meanwhile, many bird species can be spotted from the main road that runs from the gates of the Reserve to the lodge, as well as on group and private guided hikes – or simply from the lodge’s terraces at dawn or dusk. Electric-powered vehicles are also available for hushed exploration onsite while an observation tower further facilitates sightings.

Photos courtesy of Mashpi Lodge

TOURISM NEWS

“All You Need is Ecuador” Travels the World The “All You Need is Ecuador” campaign aims to awaken the sensibility of visitors through experiences that can be lived in Ecuador. The campaign includes advertising in press, TV and digital media, as well as BTL. It will take place in the US, Canada, London, Germany, China, amongst other countries. The campaign includes phrases such as “Where there is nothing, you will find it all” or “Even the coldest place will warm your heart”. These phrases can be found in advertisement billboards in Manhattan. Moreover, a BTL screen was located at the New York Grand Central Station from June 8th thru 12th, which projected a promotional video of the country. Also, a bus decorated with the slogan “All You Need is Ecuador” rode around Manhattan from in the month of May. 22

The campaign wants to inform that Ecuador is much more than just the Galapagos; the country has beaches, cloud forest, rainforest, mountains, and an amazing cultural diversity, as well as World Heritage Site cities. Ecuador offers adventure tourism, bird watching, whale watching, and excellent gastronomy, all in a dollarized economy and with a yearlong spring like weather. As part of this campaign, the “Buque Escuela Guayas” (Guayas Training Sail Vessel) arrived to the New York port, and will arrive to 22 countries around the globe throughout 10 months. This insignia of Ecuador travels as an itinerant ambassador. It arrives together with gastronomic, cultural and musical demonstrations, and delivers promotional material of the country.

“All You Need is Ecuador” in UK and Italy The Minister of Tourism of Ecuador, Sandra Naranjo, met with tourist operators and held several interviews with important media in the UK, including Conde Nast Traveler, EFE, The Telegraph, Travel Trade Gazette, Travel Weekly, Mocloe Radio, amongst others. On June 17th, Minister Naranjo launched the second phase of the campaign “All You Need is Ecuador” at the Tate Modern Museum, before an audience of tourist operators, media en special guests. The Ministry of Tourism also participated in Expo Milan 2015, where the country promoted its gastronomy, favorable weather and mega diversity in a two floor stand, together with 148 other countries. Information and photo source: Ministry of Tourism.

THIS MONTH’S RECOMMENDED

KALAHARI HAND MADE DECOR Looking for that perfect gift from this great Ecuadorian experience? Searching for that unique piece of art that will fit in your worldly home? Look no further! Kalahari Handmade Decor offers beautiful items ranging from delicate, handmade crockery, through splendorous vases and peltre ítems, to fine furniture and wood carvings. Kalahari has everything for every taste. Blending Ecuadorian art and imagery with exquisite taste for home decor is what makes this store different from any other you’ve visited. A must if you’re shopping in Quito. On display at Kalahari, you will find beautiful creations by Eduardo Vega, acclaimed Ecuadorian artist and ceramist; a fine selection of lamps and ornaments by El Alfarero from Cuenca; a stunning collection of pewter pieces with tagua inlays; beautiful wood carvings; wonderful tablecloths hand-

sewn and embroidered with traditional Ecuadorian designs; pieces of pottery and metal, as well as furniture with woodcarvings by the designer Ernesto Jaramillo, and decorative lamps by the artist Ximena Crespo. This and much more are on sale at Kalahari, and at the same price offered by the artists! The name of the store means “land of great thirst”, which makes reference to a wonderful place in the African continent that, despite being a desert, is one of the most exuberant places due to its natural richness in flora and fauna. The idea of the store is to have a unique place where the customer can identify with art and nature. The main purpose of KALAHARI is to gather the work of various Ecuadorian artists with products of superior quality. Search no more…Kalahari offers wonderful gifts and art pieces that are the perfect souvenir or gift from Ecuador! Useful information: Address: Coruña N30-135 y Whymper Phone: (593-2) 2557685 Facebook: Kalahari Handmade Email: Kalaharihd@gmail.com 23

HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

Dualities

Standing male and seated female figures, Jama-Coaque North Coast / 500 BC-AD 1530

The understanding or perception of the cosmos of the ancient pre-Columbian cultures consisted in the division of three worlds: the underworld, the middle world and the upper world. The underworld or world beneath is a cold, dark, damp place where the spirits associated with the ancestors, death, instincts, sexuality, femininity, and fertility are found, and where amphibians, water animals, snakes, bats and the nocturnal jaguar inhabit as well. The middle world is where minerals, plants, animals and humans reside. The third world is the celestial or upper world. This world is the home of the air and solar deities, associated with brightness, dryness, heat and masculinity. Moreover, this is where eagles, vultures and jaguars live in their solar form. Pre-Columbian cultures transmitted these beliefs into their art. Their ritual objects not only represented the structure of the cosmos but a duality of complementary and opposing forces such as female vs. male, life and death or day and night.

29,7 x 65,1 cm / 27,7 x 44,5 cm

Because pre-Columbian cultures were preoccupied with the flow, cycle and maintenance of life, their objects reflected this concept through human, animal and plant depictions.

making a chicha offering. The kneeling woman, associated with the earth, seems to make an offering of her own child. Both, the man and the woman wear sumptuous ornaments.

It has been determined that these figures depict a high-ranking family Celebrating a sacred moment. The position of the standing man, associated with the world above, suggests he might be

Text by: Emmanuela Ulchur Rota. Extracted partially from the MuseumÂ´s Guide and The World of Spirits in pre-Columbian Ecuador.

TOURISM NEWS

Quito amongst TripAdvisor’s Favorite Destinations Quito is part of TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice 2015. It is also mentioned amongst the 25 most popular destinations in South America. Less than 1% of the cities in TripAdvisor’s list receive such an important recognition.

TripAdvisor’s website says about Quito: “With a rich pre-Colombian history, Ecuador’s capital was founded on the ruins of an Incan city but offers everything a modern traveler might need. It remains the least-altered historic center in Latin America and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Quito’s important sites include baroque gems like San Francisco and Santo Domingo monasteries, as well as

La Compañía church and college. This huge city sprawls across a breathtaking Andean valley surrounded by volcanic peaks.” Quito has also been recognized as South America’s Leading Destination 2013 and 2014 by the World Travel Awards, and is one of the 14 finalists of the ‘New 7 Wonders’, as well as one of the 20 places to visit recommended by NatGeo Travelers.

Napo Wildlife Center Makes it to Tripadvisor´s Hall Of Fame Napo Wildlife Center has entered TripAdvisor’s Hall of Fame as winner of an Excellence Certificate for the fifth consecutive year. TripAdvisor recognizes excellence in hospitality and awards those services that have systematically obtained good opinions from travelers. The Hall of Fame was created to award the businesses that have won the Excellence Certificate for five consecutive years. 25

This archipelago is a living museum of evolutionary changes. Free and fearless animals, different from any others found elsewhere, make visitors wonder about their very existence on our planet. In 1835, Charles Darwin sailed on the British ship H.M.S. Beagle and visited the islands. The living proof that he found in this unique volcanic archipelago inspired his theory of the Origin of Species, which shook the scientific world. All those who choose to make this unforgettable trip can confirm his observations and studies. UNESCO declared Galapagos a World Natural Heritage Site in 1978 and subsequently a World Biosphere Reserve in 1985.

FLORA AND FAUNA:

Galapagos is home to an incredibly high rate of endemic species. Among the animals found are the different species of giant ‘Galapagos’ tortoises that gave the islands their name due to the similarity of their carapaces to a British riding saddle called ‘galapago’ in Spanish. Galapagos is home to a variety of birds: blue footed, red footed and masked boobies, flamingos, frigate birds, albatrosses, unique small penguins and non-flying cormorants, and 26

14 different varieties of finches. These various finches served as proof for Darwin’s theory of evolution from natural selection. Marine mammals such as sea lions, dolphins and whales are also found; as well as multitudes of colorful fish. The most distinctive plants are mangroves and endemic cacti.

ORIGIN:

NATIONAL PARK ENTRANCE FEE:

$100 for international visitors/ Comunidad Andina or Mercosur $50

AIR TRAVEL:

There are two airports served by local airlines: on Baltra Island and on San Cristobal Island.

TRANSIT CONTROL

The islands appeared from lava eruptions that came from the bottom of the ocean and that rise as much as 2,600 ft. Lava from more than 2,000 craters has continuously altered the terrain of the region. Currently, the archipelago includes 13 large islands, 6 minor ones and more than 40 islets. Some of the younger islands still have active volcanoes.

CARD (TCT):

WEATHER:

CRUISE SHIPS:

December to May the weather is sunny and warm. During the months of June to November, it’s colder and drier.

LOCATION:

600 miles West off the coast.

In order to have a better control of visitors and migration to the islands, INGALA, the Ecuadorian institution that controls migration to the islands, introduced a visitor control card. The control card has a cost of $10, which must be canceled at the INGALA counters located in the Quito and Guayaquil airports. A cruise is definitely the best way to visit many of the islands in a short period of time. Tours are a minimum of four days. There is a wide range of cruise offers, from small sailboats for about 18 passengers to big luxurious cruise ships for more than 100 passengers. Contact your travel agency for

LAND OPTIONS: THE OTHER GALAPAGOS

Another way to visit the Galapagos is to stay in a hotel at one of the inhabited islands. You can travel from one island to the other by light aircraft or boat. The following towns offer facilities for tourists:

PUERTO AYORA SANTA CRUZ ISLAND HOW TO GET THERE If you hire a cruise, or stay at the main hotels on the island, they will make all your travel arrangements. If you are traveling on your own, book your flight from Quito or Guayaquil with LAN, Tame or Aerogal. The airlines provide a bus to the Itabaca canal (10 minute ride). From there ferries take you across the canal to Santa Cruz Island for 80 cents. To continue to the town of Puerto Ayora you either take a bus ($1,80) or a taxi ($15) for a 45 minute drive. Along the way you will travel from the arid coastal area through different ecological zones as you ascend to the highlands and then come back to sea level. The name Santa Cruz means Holy Cross. The first Spanish visitors gave this island a Christian name. This is the main port of entrance to the Archipelago and home to the majority of human inhabitants (aprox. 10,000). Puerto Ayora is the capital of the island, with exciting places to visit, travel agencies that provide visits to the other islands, visit to the highlands and the beaches, other special tours,etc. At Puerto Ayora you will also find excellent handicrafts, jewelry shops, art galleries, casual clothing, restaurants, bars, bike rentals, kayaking, diving and snorkeling services just by taking a walk down Charles Darwin Avenue. This Avenue goes alongside the ocean from the port to the Charles Darwin Foundation Headquarters. A visit to this scientific station is most interesting. Other tourist sites to visit on the Island are Tortuga Bay, Manzanillo Ranch, Las 28

Primicias, Galapagos Magic, and the Ecological Reserve of Cerro Mesa.

the Charles Darwin Foundation at: www.darwinfoundation.org

CHARLES DARWIN FOUNDATION HEADQUARTERS

TORTUGA BAY

A visit to the Charles Darwin Foundation Headquarters is a must for any visitor to Puerto Ayora. Here you will be able to discover the conservation efforts of the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Galapagos National Park, and see the giant tortoises (Elephantopus geochelone) breeding center, as well as a small land iguana breeding center. You will learn about the breeding process of these animals in captivity, as well as other conservation efforts for these endangered species and varieties. During the summer months (January to April) we recommend that you take your visit early in the morning to avoid the heat and sun. Distances within the headquarters are short, so you can walk. On the route you will find Opuntia Cacti (Opuntia echios gigantean), endemic to the Galapagos. Be sure to look out for the tame finches and observe the variety of beaks that led Charles Darwin to his theory of evolution by natural selection. These headquarters are open Monday thru Sunday from 6h00 to 18h00. The visit takes approximately 2 hours. You can find more information about

Tortuga Bay is a beautiful beach of fine white sand. From your hotel, for $1, take a taxi to where the path to this unique beach begins. A 2.5 km cobblestone path was built in order to reach the paradisiacal beach of Tortuga Bay by foot. A mysterious forest of the tall Opuntia Cactus and volcanic rock surrounds the path, and the view is overwhelming. Throughout your walk you will observe finches, yellow warblers, mockingbirds, and lava lizards. Feel transported to the time when the adventurers and pirates of the XVIII and XIX century visited these enchanted islands. Once your reach Tortuga Bay, you walk into what seems an infinite and desolate beach of white sand. Every now and then you encounter marine iguanas on their way in or out of the water.

OTHERS There are other interesting sites to visit in Santa Cruz Island, such as the lava tunnels, the twin craters, the grottos (crevasses with refreshing swimming water), Garrapatero beach, Rancho Manzanillo, Galapagos Magic, Cerro Mesa, and more... Be sure to ask you hotel about facilities to visit these sites.

Charles Darwin Avenue / Puerto Ayora

7.46 miles. Volcán Chico has an overwhelming “lunatic” landscape with fascinating lava formations. It’s possible to horseback ride or trek around Sierra Negra’s crater to Volcán Chico. Isabela also has a flamingo lake and several beautiful trails along the way to the “Wall of Tears”. This wall is proof of the genuine human history of the islands. Around 1946, this island was a penal colony. Prisoners were kept busy carrying sharp lava rocks to form this wall. Kicker Rock - San Cristobal Island

PUERTO BAQUERIZO MORENO SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND This is the capital of the province, and has the second largest number of inhabitants in the archipelago. From 1836 to 1904, a large portion of the highlands of the island belonged to Hacienda El Progreso, with extensive sugar and coffee plantations owned by M.J. Cobos. Cobos made an empire of his hacienda (it even had its own currency). You can visit vestiges of this hacienda, and also coffee plantations that remain open to this day. The main attractions in the island are: the Interpretation Center; Ochoa Beach, Playa Man, Pitt Pint, El Junco lagoon (the only fresh water lagoon in the archipelago) and the Lobos Island. You will be surprised by the presence of sea lions in town. A highlight when visiting this island is a tour to Kicker Rock, a stunning rock formation surrounded by abundant sea life (especially sharks). On the same trip you can visit the beautiful Cerro Brujo beach.

GALAPAGOS MARINE RESERVE: the situations of these settlers! The main attractions are: the historical Post Office Bay and Asilo de la Paz, Punta Cormoran, Corona del Diablo, Enderby and Gardner Bay.

PUERTO VILLAMIL ISABELA ISLAND This enchanted town has a population of about 2,500, mostly fishermen. Close to town are several impressive sites: a path alongside a reef that is home to several white tip sharks- you can easily observe them from land; “Concha y Perla” Bay; a giant tortoise breeding center; and the amazing volcanoes Sierra Negra and Volcán Chico. Sierra Negra has the second largest crater in the world, with a diameter of

The interior waters of the islands, plus those within 40 nautical miles measured from the baseline of the Archipelago, were declared the Galapagos Marine Reserve in 1994. This is the only protected coastal marine area in the East Pacific, and the second largest Marine Reserve in the World. There are many areas with small submarine volcanoes, which are important feeding zones for marine birds and mammals. Don’t miss the opportunity to snorkel with sea lions, penguins, a variety of colorful fish and even inoffensive sharks! Diving courses and tours are also offered for those who are willing to be adventurous!

PUERTO VELASCO IBARRA FLOREANA ISLAND This enigmatic island is the least inhabited of the archipelago, in spite of the fact that it was the first one to be colonized, basically by national and foreign settlers during the first decades of this century. Many legends have been written about its people. Floreana by Margarett Wittmer is a most interesting novel that describes 30

Volcan Chico - Isabela Island

DIVING IN GALAPAGOS For many a Galapagos diving trip is the experience of a lifetime as it is one of the last places in the world where you can go diving with large schools of sharks. Although sharks may be the star of the show, these waters are home to much more: manta and leopard rays, dolphins, sea lions, penguins, sea turtles, yellow fin tuna, almaco jacks, codfish, leather bass and blue striped chub… just to name a few. An impressive number of large animals such as sea lions, rays, eels and sea turtles are seen on almost every dive. Found at the confluence of warm and cold surface currents and deep cold

upwelling waters, the Galapagos Marine Reserve is home to fascinating marine life. Its waters are rich with nutrients and the porous lava rocks provide small fish with the protection they would otherwise receive from a coral reef, which are few and far between in these waters. More than 2.900 marine species have been reported in the Galapagos, ¼ of which are exclusive to this reserve (endemic). Home to over 500 species of fish, 24 species of marine mammals, and 27 shark species including Hammerheads and the enormous Whale Shark, the Galapagos Marine Reserve is a World Natural Heri-

tage Site. Besides all this diversity, several land animals and marine birds depend exclusively on the Galapagos waters for their survival; thus, the conservation of the Marine Reserve is a priority. Galapagos isn’t just for advanced divers; these waters offer something for divers of all skill levels. Intermediate divers will be delighted by daily dive trips to sites like Gordon Rocks, Cousins Rocks, North Seymour and Floreana where hammerheads, Galapagos sharks, giant manta rays, golden rays, morays, fur seal and sea lions are all commonly seen. Contact our sponsors for more information.

THIS MONTH IN GALAPAGOS Max temperature Min temperature Hours of clear skies Sea temperature

25°C / 76°F 20°C / 68°F 2,8 22°C / 72°F

JULY • Sea birds are active, especially blue- footed boobies on Española. • Flightless cormorants court and nest on Fernandina. • It’s possible to find oystercatchers nesting on Puerto Egas. • Lava lizards initiate mating rituals until November. • Whales are more likely to be observed, especially off the Western coast of Isabela. Note: The changes of strength and the limits of the ocean currents can affect the climate in the Galapagos; some of the described events above may differ.

PREMIUM HOTELS - GALAPAGOS

PREMIUM SERVICES - GALAPAGOS

The Ecuadorian Coast extends from the western slopes of the Andes to the Pacific Ocean. A lower mountain range crosses this region from North to South and it is full of alluvial plains. The Ecuadorian Coast was populated by the oldest known cultures of the country, such as Valdivia (3.5001.800 BC). Ever since then, the region has had the largest agricultural development in the country, thanks to the variety of natural resources such as water, wide plains and fertile soils. The Ecuadorian Coast holds three main ecosystems: the tropical wet forests of the north, the tropical savannas of the center and south east, and the dry forest of the west and southern peninsula. Throughout the coastline there are three additional important ecosystems: the mangroves, the beaches and the rock cliffs. Two oceanographic phenomena influence the diversity that is found in the country and especially on the coast. The “El Niño” current comes from the North and is warm and humid. The “Humboldt” current comes from the south and is cold and dry. The weather in the Coast is mostly warm; however, there are two seasons, wet and dry. The first is warm and humid, and goes from December 34

to May. The rest of the year is dry and cooler. The two seasons are clearly distinct from the province of Manabi to the rest of the South. The northern province of Esmeraldas has warm weather all year long, and high levels of rainfall; thus its lush vegetation. During the months of the austral winter (June to October), the Ecuadorian coast has an additional attraction: the presence of Humpback whales (Megapter novoaengliae) that migrate from the Antarctic to tropical waters to mate and give birth to their calves. A favorite spot for whale-watching is the Machalilla National Park in the Manabi Province. The old road from Quito to the coast, the Calacali -La Independencia road, passes through some of the best

bird-watching territory in the country. The other route from Quito is through Santo Domingo de los Colorados, set amid a broad sea of banana and oilpalm plantations, skirting a few tropical wet forests such as the little-explored Reserva Ecológica Mache-Chindul. It is home to the “Tsachilas”, an indigenous culture also called “Colorados” because the men of this culture have painted their hair red for centuries with a vegetable dye taken from the seed of the “achiote”. From Santo Domingo a network of paved roads connects to the major coastal centers of the country. From Guayaquil, you can begin a route through the coastline. The following pages will guide you through this route of beautiful beaches, culture and adventure.

ECUADORIAN COASTLINE

These pages guide us through the unique nature and history of the Ecuadorian Coast. You can fly either to Guayaquil, Manta or Esmeraldas and drive through the coastline. The following pages will guide you from Guayaquil, traveling Northward. Following this route, nature lovers have the opportunity to explore unique dry forests with their two contrasting seasons, cloud forests and their rare fauna and flora, dive within coral reefs surrounded by exotic sea life, admire the numerous bird species of the region, and submerge themselves in isolated and exotic beaches. The “Chongón-Colonche” Mountain Range at the north of the Guayas province has unique ecosystems with an amazing diversity of endemic plants and birds: one can climb from very dry forests at the coast to lush cloud forests at the

top of the hills, only a few kilometers away. For those who are sports inclined, there are opportunities to fish, sail, surf, ski and dive. In addition, Ecuador’s coastal provinces hold vestiges of an amazingly rich history. The most antique cultures of America settled here on the Coasts of South America. Finally, if you only wish to rest, suntan, and watch the sunset, along this route you will find suitable accommodations and services.

1. “REAL ALTO” IN-SITU MUSEUM: On the way from

Guayaquil to Salinas, one can find this museum managed by the community descending from the “Valdivia” culture. The place resembles a ceremonial center of the human groups that inhabited this area from 4.200 -1.500 B.C. Open Tues- Sunday, 9h00-16h00. Admission fee: $1.00.

2. MUSEUM OF THE “LOVERS OF SUMPA”: Definitely worth visiting is this small but outstanding in-situ museum, which is located at the antique settlement village of the “Las Vegas” culture (approx. 8.800 to 4.600 BC). The museum got its name because the burial grounds that were uncovered disclosed the skeletons of a man and a woman that were carefully buried together about 5-6.000 years ago. This museum is the largest cemetery of that time that has been excavated in the new world. Open Tuesday thru Friday, 9h00 to 17h00. Sundays and holidays 10h00 to 17h00. Phone: 294-1020. Free Admission.

3. SALINAS: Excellent accommodations are found in Salinas, named for the salt that extracted from the region. This site is a corridor for migratory bird and marine species. It is a favorite va-

cation spot for people from Guayaquil. The boardwalk of Salinas is a safe place that offers entertainment day and night.

Blanca, Salango, and the Beaches of Puerto Rico and Puerto Cayo. For more info see page 16.

On the Malecon, you can visit the Naval Archeological Museum (open Wednesday-Sunday). This small museum displays the vast archeological richness of the pre-Hispanic cultures that inhabited this region. The museum also displays a representation of the antique “balsas” made from the wood of the same name, with great cotton sails that impressed the Spaniards because of their ability to travel long distances (Mexico-Peru). The museum also displays coins from the Spanish conquest, and some pieces from the “Lady Captain” galleon that sank in 1664.

9. MANTA: Manta was always known for its important tuna fishing fleet, the production of vegetable oil, and the famous “Panama hats”. In the last years, the visits of cruise ships and the construction of modern hotels have transformed Manta into an important tourist destination. Moreover, many foreigners have chosen Manta and the nearby Crucita town as their retirement residence. The pleasant weather, easy lifestyle and affordable prices make of Manta an ideal place for retirement.

4. BALLENITA: The “Farallon Dillon” Restaurant- Museum is found at the site. It has a wonderful viewpoint that is the perfect setting for bird and whale watching. The museum displays modern practical artifacts made out of antique marine pieces; most of the artifacts are for sale.

Manta is a modern city, however, some antique bamboo and wooden houses still remain as a reminder of the old village. With an average temperature of 77ºF all year long, dry weather and dry tropical forest in its surroundings,

almonds, rubber plants, acacias, and beautiful palm trees. The balsa tree (Ochroma logopus) is native to this province. Its light wood allowed the early inhabitants of the region to navigate large distances easily and rapidly. From history books we have learned that the golden jewels and decorations worn by the navigators caught the attention of the first Spanish visitors, who believed that the gold they couldn’t find in the Caribbean was in the South Pacific. To discover the ancient history of this places we recommend you visit the Manta Cultural Center.

Manta Cultural Center

Next to the Central Bank, just a few blocks away from the Oro Verde Hotel is this Cultural Center, open Tuesday thru Friday from 9h00 to 17h00 and weekends from 10h00 to 17h00. Admission is free. For English guidance, you need to arrange in advance calling 2622956.

Manta

5. VALDIVIA: Close to the town are

a museum and an aquarium. The museum displays archeological pieces of the Valdivia culture. The aquarium is most interesting not only because of the display of exotic sea life, but also because the guides are homeless children; this job enables them to obtain an education.

6. MONTAÑITA: It is a favorite spot

Photo Courtesy Miguel Dávila

for national and international sur fers and young adventurous tourists. This charming town offers a variety of inexpensive hostels, national and international food, and an exhilarating nightlife.

Manta is an attractive city to visit. Additionally, Manta offers first class hotel facilities and daily flights are available. The warmth and hospitality of the Manteños contributed to the rapid tourism development of the entire province.

7. OLON: The wide beach of Olon is crowned with an outstanding Sanctuary, with open walls and a breathtaking view of the beach.

Delicious gastronomy is also one of the main attractions of Manta. Don’t miss the seafood “ceviches” or the exquisite “viche de pescado”. There is a wide offer of international food as well: Thai, Italian, Mediterranean and Sushi; all at affordable prices.

8. MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK: This park has

various attractions: Isla de la Plata off the coast of Puerto Lopez, Los Frailes Beach, the Archeological Site of Agua 36

Manta is decorated with a wide variety of tree species: ceibos, jasmines,

It is worth visiting the three floors of this museum. The museum holds an exhibit of archeological pieces of the cultures that inhabited the coast of what is now Ecuador in pre- Hispanic times: Valdivia, Las Vegas, Jama Coaque, and Chorrera. It is worth mentioning that thanks to the existence of balsa wood (Ochroma logopus) in the site, they were able to exchange products from what is now Mexico to Chile in gigantic wooden boats, which carried whole families bringing products throughout America. Frescos on the walls illustrate life at

the time for a better understanding of the exhibit. The second floor holds an exhibit of contemporary Ecuadorian art.

10. BAHIA DE CARAQUEZ:

The city of Bahía de Caráquez is named after the bay and the pre-Columbian residents who came from the sea and settled here. Because of the estuary and the Pacific Ocean around the city, the local nature offers fresh and salt water that allows diverse vegetation. In the area you can find mangrove trees, ceibos forests, and fresh water humidity such as that in La Segua Marsh. A few years ago Bahía became an ecocity as a result of its big Green Movement and because of the community effort to rebuild the city after suffering the earthquakes of 1997. Bahía de Caráquez is one of the few cities in Ecuador that recycles waste, serving as an example for other regions. Traffic is not a problem. Many residents and tourists prefer to use “ecological taxis” which are bikes adapted to transport two passengers. This keeps the city free from pollution and offers a peaceful place ideal for vacationing.

SAME - Esmeraldas Photograph: Francisco Caizapanta Courtesy of Ministry of Tourism Main attractions Isla Corazón is a mangrove forest refuge comprised of 130 acres, home to one of the largest colonies of Magnificent Frigate birds in all of the South Pacific. Since 1998 the protection of the sanctuary is the responsibility of an adjacent community called Portovelo, that has a mangrove reforestation project. The residents are glad to show you around the island on wooden trails that have been built within the mangroves, as well as on boat tours around the island. La Segua Marsh: is a fresh water humidity area of about 172 hectares. In La Segua there are approximately 164 bird species. Cerro Seco: is one of the last tropical dry forests in the world. The Cabo Pasado: Is a remnant of pre-mountain forest which is a geographical transition between the Tumbesian region of dry tropical forest 38

and the tropical rainforest of the Chocó Region. It is the only area in South America where you can observe the flora and fauna of both tropical and dry forests coexisting together. It can be toured by horseback or hiking. You will likely see and hear howler monkeys.

11. ESMERALDAS:

The Esmeraldas province in the northwest of the country is a tropical and warm region thanks to the Humboldt cold current, which comes from the south and drifts off before reaching Esmeraldas. This province is called “La Provincia Verde” (The Green Province) due to its exuberant vegetation, which also gave it the name of Esmeraldas (Emerald), the precious dark green stone. The Esmeraldas River runs through the province contributing to its paradisiacal tropical beauty, vegetation and fauna. Esmeraldas is a great tourist attraction due to its vast beaches, delicious lo-

cal gastronomy based on seafood and green plantains, and the hospitality of its people, amongst them being the jovial Afro-Ecuadorian community. A tale of the province tells of the adventure of a ship full of slaves that was heading toward Cartagena, Colombia and was shipwrecked at the coasts of Esmeraldas. These African people found freedom and attractive living conditions in Esmeraldas and settled there. This is a lively community with extraordinary musical manifestations. Tourist facilities are improving and inexpensive hostels, comfortable beach resorts, as well as cabins from budget to high end can now be found in Atacames, Same, Punta Galeras, Muisne and Mompiche, just to mention some of the favorite beaches in this province. Esmeraldas is a favorite vacation spot for people from Quito, as it is one of the closest beaches and the weather and water temperature is warm throughout the year.

PREMIUM HOTELS - ECUADORIAN COASTLINE

GUAYAQUIL

Malecón 2000 Guayaquil, the capital of the Guayas province, is the largest and most populated city in Ecuador. Located on the Pacific coast, it has a tropical climate, and is known as the “Pacific Pearl”. It is the main port of Ecuador, thus, it is of great economic importance to the country. The city was named after an indigenous chief, “Guayas”, and his wife, “Quil”. Both of them chose to die before surrendering themselves to the Spaniards. Francisco de Orellana founded Guayaquil on the skirts of the Santa Ana Hill on July 25th, 1534. On the top of this hill you can observe cannons that were used to defend the city from pirate attacks. A few houses preserve their original architecture, with defense walls facing the river. Many of these houses were built at different levels on the hill, very common for the Spaniards and Portuguese. The surroundings of the city offer archeological sites of the pre-Hispanic cultures of Valdivia, Machalilla, Chorrera, Guangala 40

and Manteña. The Gulf of Guayaquil, the river, the monuments, museums, parks, and its exhilarating nightlife are part of the attractions of this city.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS MALECÓN SIMÓN BOLÍVAR

On this 1 1/2 mile waterfront walk you’ll find entertainment, culture and nature! Malecón Simón Bolívar includes monuments, museums, gardens, fountains, shopping malls, restaurants, bars, an IMAX theater, as well as docks and viewpoints. Malecón Simón Bolívar is the largest architectural development in the last century of Guayaquil’s history (total surface is 4,942 acres). It runs from Cuenca Street to the south of the city, all the way to “Barrio Las Peñas” to the north. Your walk up the Malecón Simón Bolívar will take you through three sections:

Northern

This section has space for sports, entertainment, science, history and art. Children’s games, space for aerobics and skating, are all surrounded by the historical Plaza de Orellana, Plaza de la Pileta (water fountain) and Plaza del Vagón, with a wagon of an antique Ecuadorian train. In this section you will also find gardens that showcase diverse plant species of the Ecuadorian coast, and the Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar.

Central

With the Civic Plaza (10 de Agosto and Pichincha) containing a gallery dedicated to the most outstanding personalities in Guayaquil’s history, this section is mostly historic. You can also admire other monuments:

Hemiciclo de la Rotonda

This historical monument is a spectacular semicircle commemorating the meeting of two Latin American liberators, Simón Bolívar and San Martin,

when it was decided that Guayaquil be annexed to the Gran Colombia. The monument was designed and constructed by the Spanish sculptor Jose Antonio Holms and placed in 1937. From this historical site you can see the Rafael Mendoza Avilés bridge (the largest in Ecuador).

Moorish Clock Tower

The clock was bought in England thanks to a loan given by Don Manuel Antonio Lizárraga, a rich Spanish merchant, one of the illustrious figures of the Independence. The clock was inaugurated in October of 1842 just after the terrible yellow fever epidemic in Guayaquil, the worst in its history. In 1903, the clock was moved, tower and all, from City Hall that was demolished to the Town Hall. However, from this location, the tolls that announced the hour could not be heard throughout the city, so two stories were built on to the tower.

Las Peñas

In 1920, an Italian engineer built a tower of three prismatic parts entirely made of carved wood. Finally, due to structural flaws, this tower had to be demolished. At this time, the foreign colony residing in Guayaquil together with the City Council constructed a new tower in a pure Mozarabic Style. Also in this section you can visit the four sculptures that represent the elements of nature, as well as the Guayaquil Yacht Club and the Naval Yacht Club. From the pier, the Pirate Morgan Tavern Ship has daily departures for a cruise around the Guayas River. Services include a covered parking lot, security area, rest rooms and a first aid center.

Southern

The old market is found in this section. It was inaugurated in 1907, and its authorship is attributed to the famous French engineer Eiffel. In this section you will find the “Club de la Unión”, the most traditional social center in Guayaquil. As you continue you will come to the Olmedo Plaza, where a monument of José Joaquín de Olmedo, a famous poet from Guayaquil and President of Ecuador during the XIX century, is found. To conclude your visit through this section, visit the modern architecture of the new Bahía Malecon Mall, with its terrace of restaurants that offers a spectacular view of the Guayas River.

SANTA ANA HILL

This unique hill with its charming and colorful houses is located in the northern part of the city. After climbing 444 stairs you will have the opportunity to visit many restaurants, shops and art galleries. There is also a small church to visit as well as a lighthouse that overlooks the entire city.

“LAS PEÑAS” NEIGHBORHOOD

Adjacent to the stairway is “Las Peñas”, the first residential neighborhood of Guayaquil. Its wooden houses hold treasured memories from writers and poets that inhabited this area. Although it existed since colonial times, “Las Peñas” was completely destroyed due to a fire in 1896 (“El Incendio Grande”). It was rebuilt in a neoclassic style. Enjoy a stroll along the charming cobble stoned street “Numa Pompillo Llona”, full of small art galleries. Here you can also witness the influence of the Pacific Naval Yards from the Spanish colonial times. painted their hair red for centuries with a vegetable dye taken from the seed of the “achiote”. From Santo Domingo a network of paved roads connects to the major coastal centers of the country. From Guayaquil, you can begin a route through the coastline. The following pages will guide you through this route of beautiful beaches, culture and adventure. 41

CASA DE LA CULTURA

Municipalidad de Guayaquil

MALECÓN “EL SALADO”

This waterfront walk offers entertainment, culture and nature. At El Salado you will find a variety of restaurants and bars to chose from; handcraft shops and entertainment for children. Fridays, Weekends and holidays at 19h30 and 20h30 there is a “Light and Sounds Show” at the Fountain. It is located at 9 de Octubre & La Ria.

CHURCHES THE CATHEDRAL

This Neo-Gothic Cathedral was built in 1948. The main altar is made of marble from Cuenca and its stained glass windows are beautiful works of art. It is located on the corner of Chimborazo and Clemente Ballén Avenues. Visiting hours: 9h00-12h00, and14h00-17h00 everyday.

SANTO DOMINGO

This church is the oldest in Guayaquil, built in the 16 Century. It was later restored in 1938. It is decorated with the famous paintings of Salas. It is located on Rocafuerte and Coronel Ave. Visiting hours: 8h00 to 18h00. 42

LA MERCED

It has a gothic style and a gold covered altar. It is located on Rendón and Pedro Carbo Ave. Open Monday thru Friday 7h-12h00 and 18h- 19h30. Saturdays 7h-10h00 and 18h-20h00. Free admission.

MUSEUMS CENTRO CULTURAL SIMÓN BOLÍVAR

The Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar houses a Museum of Archeology and Contemporary Art, which is currently closed for refurbishments. The library is open, and it holds 20.000 publications specializing in art, archeology and anthropology. A cinema with capacity for 380 people is also open. Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 10h00 to 17h00, Sundays and holidays from 11h00 to 15h00. Address: Malecon Simon Bolivar and Loja (at the Northern part of the Malecon 2000, next to the Imax theater).

This museum holds the most valuable pre-historic gold work collection in Ecuador. Most pieces were made by the indigenous inhabitants of our coast. You will see ceremonial pots, snakeshaped bracelets, nose rings, gold pieces that were used on the lips and cheeks, elaborate pins used to fasten clothing, chest shields, ceremonial masks and earrings. The abundance of gold provoked the greed of the Spanish conquerors, who hoarded and sent vast quantities of this precious metal back to Spain. Thus, gold workmanship disappeared due to the Indigenous belief that gold was evil, being the main cause of having Spaniards come to their lands. Archeological objects such as the “Ocarinas” (clay whistles), stone headrests, molds for gold masks and clay seals, apparently have Egyptian influence. There are many colonial paintings from anonymous authors and from well-known artists of this period (such as Goribar and Rodriguez). Address: 9 de Octubre 1200 & Pedro Moncayo.

Open Tuesday thru Friday from 10h-18h00, Saturdays 9h-15h00. Admission fee: $1 adults, $0.50 children, senior citizens and students. Phone: 2300500 / 2304998.

GUAYAQUIL IN HISTORY

Located at Malecon 2000 under the IMAX Theater, this didactic museum holds a miniature exhibit of the most remarkable scenes of Guayaquil’s history. It is an auto-guided museum (in Spanish) with entertaining explanations and lively music. Open Mondays thru Fridays from 16h00 - 18h00. Saturdays and Sundays from 9h00 - 18h00. Admission fee: $2,00 adults, $1 children. Phone: 2563078.

THE MUNICIPAL MUSEUM

This museum has four divisions: Archeology, History, Colonial Art and Modern Art. You will have the chance to see original “tzanzas” (shrunken heads).

called “Cosmognias”, and is a didactical sample that integrates the most representative works of colonial culture. This exhibit consists of 100 pieces: sculptures, paintings, clothes and accessories of the colonial period. The exhibit is divided into four categories: Fire, Earth, Water and Air. Open Tuesday thru Friday from 9h00 to 16h30. Sundays and holidays from 10h00 to 15h00. Free admission. Address: Pichincha y Clemente Ballen Phone: 2324182, 2324283 www.museonahimisaias.com

PRESLEY NORTON MUSEUM

“Villa Herlinda”, a two floor manor dating back to 1942, houses the delightful exhibition of “Life and Customs of the Settlers of Ancient Ecuador”. The charming setting and approachably small size of the exhibit, combined with the friendly didactic resources of touch screens and a video, make a visit to

this unique museum a most pleasant experience. The museum holds a sample of 129 selected archeological pieces from a collection of over 8,000 artifacts that belonged to Presley Norton, a passionate aficionado of Ecuador’s archeology. The pieces belong to three historical periods: Formative (4,200 B.C. – 500 B.C), Regional Development (500 B.C. – 500 A.D.) and Integration (500 A.D.1530 A.D.). Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 9h00 to 17h00. Holidays from 10h00 to 15h00. Free admission. Guide service both in English and Spanish. Address: corner of 9 de Octubre and Carchi. Phone: (04) 229 3423.

NAVAL MUSEUM “ALMIRANTE ILLINGWORTH”

Malecon & Clemente Ballen (Building of the Provincial Government of Guayas). Open Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to 12h30 and 14h00 to 16h00. Free admission.

The Shuar culture of the southeast used to shrink their enemy’s head to keep the bad spirits away from them. These miniature heads would not lose their original features when reduced. The mystery of this process has not yet been discovered. Even though the Shuar culture is still alive, the shrunken head tradition is not. Located at the corner of Sucre Street and Pedro Carbo. Visiting hours: Tuesday thru Saturday 9h00 to 17h00. Free admission. Identification document is required. Phone: 2599100.

NAHIM ISAIAS MUSEUM

Located at the Plaza de la Administracion and part of the process of urban regeneration, the Nahim Isaias Museum’s vision is to promote colonial art through its cultural funds. The complete collection of the Museum includes 2.179 works of art. The second floor holds a permanent exhibition of colonial art. The exhibit is

Presley Norton Museum 43

THE FIREFIGHTERS MUSEUM “FELIX LUQUE PLATA” Located at the old water distributor in Plaza Colon, close to “Las Peñas” neighborhood.

Open Tuesday thru Sunday from 10h00 to 17h00. Admission fee: $0.75 adults, $0.25 children. Phone: 230 8565.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN GUAYAQUIL CENTENARIO PARK

The park is located at the heart of the city and is also one of the largest in Guayaquil. There are bronze monuments, which represent heroism, justice, patriotism, and freedom. One monument representing the man who fought for independence was designed by a Spanish Sculptor, Agustin Querol, and built by José Monserrat in 1818.

SEMINARIO PARK

Also known as the Bolívar Park or Iguanas Park, it is located on Chile Street between 10 de Agosto and Clemente Ballén Avenues. The park was inaugurated on July 24, 1880. You can admire the statue of the liberator Simon Bolívar. This park is exceptional for its wildlife. You will see fish, a variety of birds, and numerous iguanas. The iguanas of the park have always been one of its main attractions. These animals chose this place to feed on its vegetation, as the town of Guayaquil used to end at this park, the rest being savannah.

CENTRO CÍVICO

This modern center has an information office for tourists, exposition halls, convention halls, and other large areas for musical events, concerts, theaters, and other cultural events. On the upper floor of the civic center one can admire outstanding sculptures of Oswaldo Guayasamin. This center has an artificial lake surrounded by exuberant vegetation. Address: Quito St, between El Oro y Venezuela. 44

GENERAL CEMETERY

Although few cemeteries can be considered a tourist attraction, this one is worth admiring. It has outstanding sculptures made of white marble. The style has a strong Italian influence. Beautiful stretches of palm trees lead to the grave of the past president, Vicente Rocafuerte.

SPORT CENTERS

Guayaquil is famous for its great sport facilities, including one of the 20 largest soccer stadiums in the world, “Isidro Romero” (seats 85,000 people). This stadium is located at Del Bombero Av. The city also hosts a modern horse track with races every weekend- the Hipódromo Buijo (Samborondón). There are also tracks for go-kart, bicycle, motorcycle and car races; as well as basketball, golf and polo courts and great water sport facilities.

SAMANES PARK Samanes Park has an area larger than 2,000 acres, and includes Cerro Colorado Protected Forest. The Cerro Colorado Protected Forest is one of the last remnants of the native vegetation of the dry forests of the Guayaquil area. This area suffered several interventions such as the selective extraction of some woods for construction and firewood, hunting and several fires. In December 2011, a fire affected 60% of the park’s area. To help the park’s recuperation, the government is carrying out a reforestation plan with native tree species. The park is home to more than 193 flora species including the native guayacan and Ceibo trees, and more than 100 fauna species including 90 birds, 9 mammals that include squirrels and opossum, and 7 reptiles including turtles, boas and the green iguana, and 9 fish species. Samanes Park also holds a recreational area with soccer, volleyball, basketball, tennis and handball courts, as well as

children games. It also has a stadium with capacity for 8,000 people. The Gran Via that goes through the park has several fountains, resting seats and has cycle and running lanes. The park also has three small lakes, one of which offers pedal boats. Located at the North-East of the city, between Francisco de Orellana and Narcissa de Jesús Avenues (Bus Terminal Pascuales). Open every day from 6h00 to 23h00. For more information visit www.parquesyespacios.gob.ec

WE ALSO RECOMMEND THAT YOU VISIT

The “Guayas and Quil” Monument (Las Americas Ave.), the Municipality Palace (Pichincha 605 and 10 de Agosto), the Governor’s Palace (Malecón and Aguirre), Sucre Square (Pichincha and Clemente Ballén), Rocafuerte Square (Rocafuerte and Junin), and the Planetarium (via Puerto Marítimo).

SURROUNDINGS BOTANICAL GARDEN This garden holds approximately 700 plant species that have been cultivated to resemble their natural habitat. Among these are trees used for wood, fruit trees, ornamental and exotic plants. More than 80 species of orchids, both native and introduced from other tropical countries, can be observed. An exhibit of native medicinal plants of the Coast is also found. Approximately 75 bird species of the dry tropical forest fly freely in the garden. Jardin Botanico also houses a butterfly-breeding center, with approximately 27 species. Representations of the Valdivia, Manteña and Jama-Coaque cultures are exhibited along the internal roads. Located at “Cerro Colorado” in northern Guayaquil, Ciudadela Las Orquideas, Av. Francisco de Orellana. Open every

day from 8h00 to 16h00. Entrance fee: $3.00 adults, $1.50 students, children and senior citizens. Guide service is $5.00 for groups up to 20 people. Phone: 2899 689. Workshops and conferences on plant cultivation are offered.

CERRO BLANCO PROTECTED FOREST

Protected by governmental decree and run by the Pro-Forest Foundation, Cerro Blanco protects one of the few remaining areas of dry tropical forest in Ecuador with a rich biodiversity, including jaguar, puma, howler, and capuchin monkeys, white-tailed deer, collared peccary, coatimundi and crab-eating raccoon. Cerro Blanco is a bird watcher’s paradise, with 211 species including 22 species of birds of prey and a small population of the threatened Great Green Macaw, the symbol of this Protected Forest. Cerro Blanco’s facilities include an outdoor amphitheater museum, 4 nature trails, picnic and camping area, and the Great Green Macaw Captive Breeding Center. From January to May, the view is completely green and abundant water allows bird nesting. From June to December is the dry season: the leaves’ colors change to brownish red, and trees flower. Don’t miss visiting one of the last remains of this unique ecosystem!

Located at km 16 on the way from Guayaquil to Salinas, in front of Roosevelt Academy School, it can be easily reached by buses of Chongon Company buses or buses that run from the land terminal to the coast, as well as by taxi. Open Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h00 to 16h30. Previous reservation is required for visits during week days. Free admission. Phone: 287 4946 / 7 – 099 4135 730 E-mail:bosqueprotector@yahoo.com www.bosquecerroblanco.com Visits Monday thru Sunday from 8h30 to 15h30 without prior reservation.

GUAYAQUIL HISTORIC PARK

A natural habitat of mangrove trees, fresh waters of the Daule River, and tropical climate make this 20 acre park the perfect setting to bring the past back to life. In a single day visit, you can encounter the fauna and flora of the region in the “wildlife zone”, the history, cultural manifestations and rural life in the “traditions zone”, as well as the “urban-architectonic zone”, which holds original pieces from Guayaquil’s antique architecture destroyed by fires in the XIX century, bringing the city of the past back to life. On Saturdays and Sundays the Guayaquil Historic Park becomes livelier with cultural and festive activities. Music, traditional food, people dressed up in antique clothes, among other activities,

add color and flavor to this cultural setting. It is located only 10 minutes from Guayaquil, across the Daule River, next to the residential neighborhood of Entre Rios, Samborondon. Free admission. Open Monday to Sunday: 09h00 - 16h30. Guided tours are available. If you would like to schedule a tour for your group, please call (04) 283 5356 or (04) 283 2958. Find upto-date info at: www.parquehistorico.gob.ec.

PUERTO HONDO MANGROVES

Through the formation of an Ecological Club, the community is making a united effort to conserve the remaining mangroves in the area. Among its projects, the club offers ecotourism opportunities. Visit this beautiful natural site with exotic flora and fauna! It is located 17 km away from Guayaquil, on the way to Salinas. Open every day from 9h00 to 17h00. Prior reservation is required for visits. Phone: 0991400186. Kayak rental is offered for $4 an hour, and the entrance fee to the Environmental Education Center is $1 per person. Photos courtesy of: Municipio de Guayaquil & ParqueHistórico

Historic Park 45

CULTURE + ENTERTAIMENT - GUAYAQUIL EXHIBITS

MUSIC

Open until Friday, July 10th

Friday, July 3rd 20h30

Tuesday, July 28th 20h00

“Amorfineando con los montubios del tablao” A journey through the traditions of the peasants of the coast. Place: Teatro Sánchez Aguilar Admission fee: $17

SPECIAL EVENTS Weekend and holidays - 14h00 Boleros by Omar Montalvo Place: Teatro Sánchez Aguilar Admission fee: $22 - $55 Tuesday, July 7th 20h00

Café Concert: “La Korda presenta Coquette”

Matías Chapiro and Víctor Renaudeau, Latin American Music and jazz. Place: Teatro Sánchez Aguilar Admission fee: $17

Family theater, dance and music Place: Parque Lago

Friday, July 10th 20h30

Painting exhibit: Vientos de Montaña (Mountain Winds)

by Miguel Yaulema, Rafael Gutierrez Moreira and Fausto Morocho Place: Museo Nahím Isaías Open until Wednesday, July 22nd

Guayaquil Symphonic Orchestra

A gala in homage to the US Independence. Place: Teatro Sánchez Aguilar Free admission Tuesday, July 14th 20h00 JJazz

A quartet led by Raúl Rueda, gathers songs by Julio Jaramillo and other Ecuadorian Place: Teatro Sánchez Aguilar Admission fee: $17

Tuesday, July 21st

20h00

Egberto García IN CONCERT

Painting Exhibit: “Fronteras” (Borders) by David Santillán Place: MAAC Free admission

Open until Wednesday, July 22nd

Geometric Mission

Artists Pili Colás , Carlos Vaca / Uma Derzu, Jaime Nuñez del Arco y Eduardo Vélez. Place:MAAC Free admission

Boleros, blues and jazz Re-launch of the CD Sway by Egberto García Place: Teatro Sánchez Aguilar Admission fee: $17

THEATER Saturday, July 11th 20h00 Sunday, July 12th 19h00

Solo Solo Solo

“Teatro de la Vuelta” Place: Teatro Sánchez Aguilar Admission fee: $17 Thursday, July 16th thru Friday, July 31st Thursdays thru Saturdays 20h30 Sundays 19h30

Guayaquil, a Love Story / 1822 Place: Teatro Sánchez Aguilar Admission fee: $22- $55 46

Saturdays - 14h00 Sundays - 13h00

Show de los Compadres (Typical montubio show) Place: Parque Histórico de Guayaquil

ADDRESSES: • Teatro Sánchez Aguilar: Av. Río Esmeraldas Km. 1.5 on the way to Samborondón. P: (+593 4) 209 7447 • Parque Lago: Km 26 vía a la Costa • Parque Histórico de Guayaquil: Km 1.5 vía Samborondón & Esmeraldas Ave. P: 283 2958

PREMIUM HOTELS - GUAYAQUIL

DOWNTOWN GUAYAQUIL

NORTHERN GUAYAQUIL

PREMIUM HOTELS - GUAYAQUIL

RESTAURANTS AND CAFETERIAS - GUAYAQUIL

Many of the provinces in Ecuador’s highlands are named after the most important mountain or volcano in its territory: Imbabura, Pichincha, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, and Chimborazo. Most of the names of the mountains have their origin in an indigenous tongue, mostly Quichua. The word “Andes” itself comes from ANTI, which means “where the sun rises”.

The Ecuadorian Andes include several active volcanoes. Ecuadorians have witnessed and still can experience numerous volcanic eruptions. “Tungurahua” comes from “Tunguri” (esophagus) and Awa (fire); and indeed this volcano spits fire! It is an exciting experience to observe the volcano in action, and as for now it is safe, from a distance, of course. The town of Baños, a favorite spot for tourists, is located on the outskirts of the volcano. The Ecuadorian Andes are the only site on the planet where the Equatorial Line crosses over highlands; in the rest of the world, the Equator crosses through dense tropical forests or the ocean. The pre-Incan cultures that inhabited Quito and its surroundings developed their astronomical knowledge with the help of the clear landmarks surrounding the city. Alexander von Humboldt explored the Ecuadorian Andes and their valleys in 1802. He named them “The Avenue of the Volcanoes”. He believed that he had reached the highest point in the world when he attempted to climb the Chimborazo volcano (20,702 ft), since the Himalayas were still unknown in Europe at the time. If measured from the center of the Earth, the peak of the Chimborazo is indeed the furthest point

on the planet’s surface (because the Earth is wider at the Tropics). Ecuador has twelve peaks over 16,000 ft. The country offers opportunities to hike, trek and mountain climb for all skill levels. Ecuador’s Andes hold numerous breathtaking view sites: lagoons, extensive paramos (moorlands), and mysterious cloudforests… Moreover, the indigenous communities of the region are known for their colorful folklore and remarkable weaving abilities. Several activities can be enjoyed: birdwatching, biking, water sports on the lakes, interacting with indigenous communities, visiting rose plantations, savoring delicious traditional dishes, and much more. The colonial cities of Quito and Cuenca have both been declared World Cultural Heritage Sites. Within easy reach from these cities you can visit impressive natural sites.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING

HACIENDA PINSAQUI (OTAVALO - IMBABURA)

HACIENDA CUSIN (San Pablo - Imbabura)

HACIENDA LA COMPAÑÍA (CAYAMBE- PICHINCHA)

First constructed in 1790, with three centuries of history, romantic Hacienda Pinsaqui invites you to be a part of its magic and legends…

Preserving a historic ambiance, Hacienda Cusin’s new English owner established a country inn of 45 guestrooms, suites and garden-cottages. Cusin’s terracotta roof tiles, white walls, towers, cobblestone and fountain courtyards nestle beneath a deepblue sky in a wide, pastoral, lake valley. Nearby Lago San Pablo reflects the 15,000 feet high Imbabura mountain. Located 90 minutes North of Quito and 15 minutes South of Otavalo, it offers: valley/mountain trails, horseback riding, mountain climbing, bird watching, volleyball and squash courts, game room, children’s playground, library, extensive video library, craft & market village tours, and Spanish lessons.

One of the outstanding features of Hacienda La Compañía is the house built in French Republican style, which dates back to 1919 and has been in the hands of the same family for generations. The charm of the house is complemented with the striking decorations of thousands of roses which are brought from the Flower Farm belonging to the same family. The owners greet visitors personally and serve breakfast or lunch with traditional ingredients and a homey feel. Visitors are then invited to the Rose Farm to admire the wonders behind all of those flowers back at the house: the people, the methods, the care in each detail, and moreover, the special awareness involved in the social and environmental processes.

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-6) 291 8316 / 317 www.haciendacusin.com hacienda@cusin.com.ec

Prior reservation is required for a visit. Phone: (593 2) 224 7825 Cel phone: (593 9) 9769 4174 haciendalacompania@yahoo.com

Hacienda Pinsaqui offers all the facilities for an unforgettable visit: 30 luxurious suites with fireplaces (some with Jacuzzi bath), restaurant, 200 year old gardens with an artificial lake, horseback riding, historical chapel, and a reading room with fireplaces.

Reservations & Information: Phone: (593-6) 294 6116 / 117 Cel phone: (593-9) 9972 7652 Address: Panamericana Norte Km 5 www.haciendapinsaqui.com info@haciendapinsaqui.com

PREMIUM HACIENDAS - ANDES HACIENDA SAN AGUSTIN DE CALLO (Cotopaxi)

HACIENDA SAN JOSÉ DE SIGCHOS (Cotopaxi)

POSADA INGAPIRCA (Cañar)

One hour south of Quito nestled within the Avenue of the Volcanoes stands this unique hacienda, San Agustin de Callo, built on the site of an Inca palace, and one of the most important archaeological Inca sites in Ecuador. It is the point furthest north from Cusco of Imperial style construction and constitutes the only lived-in museum of Inca Imperial and Spanish Colonial style. The location of the site at the foot of Cotopaxi, highest active volcano in the world, near Indian villages and local markets, with its historical significance and archaeological value and its architectural blend of unusual styles contribute to make San Agustin a unique and magical place to stay.

Contact with nature, family time, relaxation, horseback riding, trekking, ATV… in the 370 acres of this scenic hacienda. San José de Sigchos is located in the most beautiful area of the Cotopaxi Province, Sigchos, a two hour and a half drive from Quito and an hour and a half from Latacunga. The hacienda’s facilities include 18 rooms, a warm pool, sauna, jacuzzi and Turkish bath. Guests are welcome to milk cows and can also enjoy a trip through the crops. Visits to the surroundings include amazing sites such as the Quilotoa Lagoon, the Inca Trail, and Atahualpa’s last refugee, “Malqui Machay”.

Located in the most beautiful and mysterious region in the Province of Cañar, it is a charming and old country house situated 500 meters from the most important archeological complex in Ecuador. You can also explore the Incan and Cañaris ruins, where you can enjoy the Andean landscape, as well as the peace and harmony that nature has to offer. It is an unforgettable experience. Our establishment and staff strive to meet all the needs and any special requests of our clients. It specializes in traditional Ecuadorian cuisine. All rooms are carpeted, with heating & private bathroom. There is also a game room with a fireplace, green areas, bar and restaurant.

Reservations & Information: Quito: (593-2) 290 6157 / 8 Hacienda: (593-3) 271 9160 www.incahacienda.com info@incahacienda.com

Reservations & Information: Quito: (+593)(2) 2 401 968 / (+593) 994 676 413 Hacienda: (+593) (3) 2 714 121/642 www.sanjosedesigchos.com info@sanjosedesigchos.com

Reservations & Information: Phones: (593-7) 2830064 / 2831120 / 2827401 Fax: (593-7) 2832340 Cuenca office: Calle Larga 693 & Borrero www.posadaingapirca.com gstaana@etapanet.net

THE NORTHERN ANDES

Mountains, Lakes & Folklore The Northern Sierra offers magnificent scenery of volcanoes, sparkling lakes and patchwork-covered hills. Taking the Panamericana highway north of Quito, the first highlight is the Cayambe volcano (18,997 ft), crossed by the Equator. This snow-peak overlooks the

city with the same name, which in the last decade has grown in importance because of the rose plantations. Flowers are Ecuadorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fourth largest export. Renowned in Cayambe are the homemade cheese and bizcochos (buttery biscuits). Further north is the province of Imbabura (see map on next page). A visit to Ecuador is never complete without at least a few days spent here, the province of lakes and mountains, inspiring landscapes and folklore. This province is only 50 miles north of Quito on the Pan-American Highway.

ATTRACTIONS IN IMBABURA SAN PABLO LAKE

This is the largest lake in the province. Indigenous people fish early in the morning in their straw canoes, and also bathe and wash their clothes in this lake during the day. There are inns, 58

farms and restaurants where you can spend a weekend or just a day full of entertainment around the lake. You can also take a boat ride around the lake, or enjoy other water sports such as sailing, water skiing, jet skiing, etc.

OTAVALO INDIGENOUS MARKET

Otavalo is a small city of about 50,000 inhabitants. It lies at 8,300 ft above sea level in a spring-like valley, situated between the Imbabura volcano (15,118 feet) and the Cotacachi volcano (16,200 feet). The most famous indigenous market in Ecuador is held here. Although the market is bigger on Saturdays, you can visit it any day and find an impressive variety of all kinds of Ecuadorian handicrafts. At dawn you may see indigenous people arriving at the market place from many mountain trails surrounding the city. They come from nearby villages and towns such as Peguche, Agato and Iluman, to sell their products. One may visit the workshops of these local weavers working

NORTHERN ANDES

on back strap and Spanish treadle looms, as well as other artisans at work making felt hats, knitting sweaters or weaving straw mats.

COTACACHI VILLAGE

This village is known for its leatherwork. You can find an excellent choice of jackets, skirts, boots, briefcases, bags, riding equipment and wallets. Cotacachi is home to the only high school in Ecuador that teaches leather work. They specialize in shoes, however, they teach the students to make all leather products.

CUICOCHA LAKE

The crater lake has an impressive landscape of deep blue waters surrounded by hills. Take a hike around the lake (4 to 5 hours). If you are lucky, you will see a condor.

CONDOR PARK

Just 3 miles away from Otavalo, the Condor Park was laid out. This thirty-acre park is managed by a foundation dedicated to the care and rescue of predatory birds such as hawks, eagles, vultures and owls. This park is unique in many ways. It is located on a hill known as the “Pukara Alto”, an energetic center since pre-Columbian times, where ruins remain of a religious pre-Inca temple. The sights are amazing, 360 degrees around of mountains, lake, valleys and towns. Large cages are distributed along a

cobblestone walk through the park to admire a variety of birds such as the Barred Hawk, the King Vulture, the Greater Red-Headed Vulture, the Spectacled Owl, the Arctic Owl, the Mottled Owl, among others. Finally, you will run into the large cage of the impressive but endangered Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus), now easily bred in captivity. Open from Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h30 to 17h00. Admission fee: $3,50 for adults, $1,75 children and senior citizens. Phone: 098 431-1769 info@parquecondor.org www.parquecondor.org

SAN ANTONIO

Shortly before entering Ibarra, a righthand turn leads into San Antonio, the home of expert wood carvers. As you visit the various shops, you will marvel at their talent. Visitors can watch some of the craftsmen at work in their studios.

IBARRA CITY

This clean, freshly painted colonial city, capital of the province, is also known as the white city. It lies at 7,000 ft, and has a population of approximately 110,000. Ibarra enjoys one of the best climates of the Sierra. Typical products include arrope de mora (blackberry syrup) and nogadas (a sweet made with walnuts). Don’t miss the delicious “paila” ice creams (whipped natural fruit). Yaguarcocha Lake This lake is only a short distance from the center of Ibarra. Its name means “blood lake”. Years ago, a bloody bat-

tle among indigenous peoples took place at this lake, thus the name. Now Yaguarcocha is home to an auto racetrack. Every so often international car racing events take place here.

ATTRACTIONS IN CARCHI Carchi is the northernmost province of the Ecuadorian sierra. The Province borders with Colombia.

EL ANGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

The 15,715 hectares of this Ecological Reserve lie at 11,950 to 15,640 ft. The paramo in El Angel is covered by gigantic “Frailejones” (Espeletia pycnophylla), a plant specie that is only found in the high paramo ecosystem. Another plant species in the reserve are the Polylepis trees, which have many layers covering their trunks for insulation. Given that the layers of these trunks are thin and can be torn like paper, they are locally known as “arboles de papel” (paper trees). El Angel is considered a water sponge as the area provides water for the entire province. Several rivers have their origin at El Angel and join together to form the basin of the Mira and El Angel Rivers. Beautiful lagoons are also found at this Reserve. Photos by: Ministerio de Turismo & Gustavo Vallejo.

Condor Park 60

PREMIUM SERVICES - NORTHERN ANDES

QUITO

Photo Courtesy of Quito Turismo

Quito: First World Heritage Site Photos courtesy of: Quito Tourism www.quito.com.ec Besides its amazing landscapes, Quito is known for its treasures of colonial churches, paintings, sculptures and carvings. The Spanish Colonial Period extends from the XVI to the XVIII Century. Ecuadorian colonial art combines the European Renaissance and Baroque styles with the indigenous and mestizo influences. With the arrival of the Spaniards, 62

the Roman Catholic Church became the center of religious instruction and the largest patron of the arts. As part of the acculturation of the indigenous people, the Spanish established painting and sculpture schools where Spanish artists trained the indigenous population in the arts. As a result, the Quitenian School (Escuela Quiteña) became famous in Latin America for its talented artists, including Bernardo de Legarda and the indigenous artists Caspicara and Pampite. Miguel de Santiago, Javier de Goribar, Manuel Samaniego and Padre Bedón were othe outstanding representatives of this art school. Scholars consider their contributions to colonial art as some of the most valuable in America. Thus, the

UNESCO declared Quito a “World Cultural Heritage Site” in 1978. However, the history of Quito stretches far beyond the arrival of the Spaniards. Before the Spaniard Sebastian de Benalcázar conquered the city in 1534, the Incas had conquered it in the XV century. At the time when the Incas arrived, they found an organized civilization: the Shyris. Furthermore, recent discoveries have uncovered archeological sites that date back to 1500 BC. These archeological remains are aligned with the summer solstice and the winter equinox, demonstrating that the native people had an impressive knowledge of the course of the sun. These cultures are believed to have migrated from the Ecuadorian Coast.

Quitsato, the original name of the city, means “Middle of the Earth” in the ancient ‘tsafiqui’ language. Quito is the only site on the planet where the Equator crosses over highlands. On the rest of the Earth’s surface, it crosses through jungle or ocean. Therefore, the pre-Inca cultures were able to develop their astronomical knowledge with the help of the clear landmarks surrounding the city: the Pichincha volcano (15,000 ft) to the West, the Antisana (18,700 ft) to the east, and the peak of the snow-caped Cayambe (18,725 ft) to the Northeast, almost precisely on the Equator. The city itself emerges over 9,184 ft above sea level; it is the second highest capital in the world. Thus, Quito could be considered the best natural astronomical observatory. Quito extends along the Eastern side of the Pichincha volcano. The city is long and thin, with a length of approx. 22 miles and a width of 2-3 miles. The temperature in the city varies along the day… in the early morning and at night it can be around 10ºC, and at noon it can reach up to 25ºC. The geographical conditions of the zone give place to a number of ecosystems, thus, Quito’s surroundings offer a diversity of landscapes, each with unique flora and fauna.

SIGHTSEEING We suggest that you to begin your sightseeing at “La Plaza de la Independencia”, from where you can walk to most of the downtown sites. This main plaza is surrounded by four buildings that represent the four ruling powers of the colonial period: the Government Palace to the west, the Municipal Palace to the east, the Archbishop’s Palace to the north, and the Cathedral to the south.

THE GOVERNMENT PALACE

It is not possible to visit the interiors of the palace, however, from the entrance door one is able to appreciate the Andalusian patios that have half-point arches and water fountains in the center. You can see a scale model of the Independence

Square displayed at the entrance to the Palace.

THE CATHEDRAL

This church holds an interesting collection of sculptures and paintings from the Escuela Quiteña. Among the most important is the “Descending of Christ” by Caspicara. It is a masterpiece of expressionism. As in most Ecuadorian and Latin American churches, many styles are used in the construction of the Cathedral: late Gothic in the arches, Moorish in the ceilings and Baroque in the main altar. The choir, the stone Episcopal chair, the central painting by Manuel Samaniego and the statues by Caspicara are in neoclassical style. A museum that displays the clothes used by the priests on the XVII century (“casullas”), choral books and silver pieces of the church is open Monday thru Saturday from 9h30 to 17h30. Guided tour is $1.50 for adults and $1 for children. Phone: 257 0371.

CENTRO CULTURAL METROPOLITANO

The cultural centre is located on the corner of the Main Square, next to the Government’s Palace. The Jesuits originally constructed this building in the XVII Century. In 1767, when Charles III of Spain banished the Jesuit Order from the colonized territories, the buildings became a public University. In the last decade of the XVIII century, the buildings became the army headquarters of the Spanish Royal troops sent from Lima to repress the early independence efforts. Thus, the building was known as the “Royal Barrack of Lima”. In this building, the heroic efforts for independence ended up in a massacre of a number of patriots from Quito on August 2, 1810. The Alberto Mena Caamaño Museum displays this massacre with life-size wax sculptures, as well as other important scenes of Quito’s history. The Cultural Center also holds a museum of colonial art and the Municipal Library as well. There is also a Contemporary Art exhibit room, which houses temporary exhibitions. Open Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h00 to 18h00. Admission fee to the

museum is $1.50; students and senior citizens $0.75; children $0.50. Phone: 295-7062.

EL SAGRARIO

This church was originally the main chapel of the Cathedral, built for the cult of the Holy Sacrament. It has been kept for this service to this day. The stone facade with its ornamented Salomon columns is an excellent frame for a high Baroque that leaves practically no space without ornamentation. This style is typical of Bernardo de Legarda’s sculpture. It is located next to the Cathedral. Visiting hours: Mon–Fri: 9h-17h00, Sat: 07h-20h00, Sun 07h-13h00. Admission is free. For more information, call 228 4398.

LA COMPAÑÍA DE JESÚS CHURCH

This is one of the richest churches in America. The extraordinary facade can be described as a lacework on stone. Six Salomonic columns in the lower part support a second body of different

La Compañía: Courtesy of Quito Turismo 63

outstanding masterpieces. A legend of the chapel says that Francisco Cantuña (the indigenous man that paved the atrium with arge stone blocks) constructed the chapel with the treasures saved from the Kingdom of Quito. Visiting hours: Tuesday thru Thursday 8h00 - 17h00. Free admission. Phone: 2281124.

SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM

La Compañía de Jesús Church Photo Courtesy of Quito Turismo

widths, reminiscent of the Church of Gesu in Rome. The columns are a copy of those by Bernini in the Vatican. The splendor that meets your eye as you go into the church is unforgettable: the vaulted ceiling and the walls with beautiful Moorish ornamentation, the perfect harmony and the richness of the main altar, the reproduction of the Salomon columns of the facade, the incredible clustered Baroque on the tribunes on both sides of the main altar, in the pulpit, and in the lateral chapels. Everything is covered with gold leaf. It is a magnificent exhibit of foliage, vines, fruits, birds and caryatids. The Holy Trinity in the main altar and the images of Saint Francis and Saint Ignatius in the side altars are works of the famous Legarda. Paintings of the prophets and works of Goribar hang in the majestic archery that divides the aisles. It is located at Benalcazar St. Open Monday thru Thursday 09h30 to 18h30, Fridays 9h30 to 17h30, Saturdays 09h30 to 16h30, Sundays 12h30 to 16h00. Phone: 2581895. Admission fee is US$ 3, and includes guide service. From here, we recommend you go up the Sucre Street to the San Francisco Plaza.

SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH AND PLAZA

This complex gave the capital of Ecuador its proper name: San Francisco de 64

Quito. It is the oldest in Quito, built in 1536-1580. San Francisco is the biggest religious architectonic complex in America, with over 8,670 acres, including the convent with 6 internal patios. The atrium running along one side of the plaza opens in the middle to give way to a beautiful staircase. The facade has a style similar to that of the Escorial in Spain. The inside is Baroque style. The coffer ceiling in the narthex has rich Moorish style ornamentation with paintings by Miguel de Santiago. It is interesting to note among the ornate details images of the sun god, the Inca divinity. The main altar holds the original masterpiece by Legarda: “La Virgen de Quito” (Quito’s Virgin). This sculpture is the only winged image of Virgin Mary in colonial art. The San Francisco Plaza was an antique “Tianguez”, which means ‘market’ in the native Nahuatl language. During Pre-Columbian times, Plaza San Francisco was a lively commercial center, hosting approximately ten ethnic dominations from the neighboring valleys. San Francisco is located between Sucre and Bolívar Streets. Church visiting hours: Friday thru Sunday 17h00-18h00. Free admission. Phone: 2959911.

CANTUÑA CHAPEL

Located at one side of the San Francisco atrium. The Calvary woodcarvings on the main altar are some of Legarda’s most

Located next to the church at the San Francisco Square. The zaguan (entrance hall), the main cloister, the renaissance stairway, the chorus and the exposition lounge are now the site of a number of selected works of the Franciscan collection. You can find works of Andrés Sánchez Galque (of indigenous origin), Miguel de Santiago, Mateo Mexía, the European authors Zurbarán and Bernardo de Bitti, with their respective schools, among others of the XVI-XVIII centuries. Among the sculptures, you can find the glass eyes characteristic of the XVIII century. You will also find pieces of furniture from the XVIII century. The museum is called Fray Pedro Gocial in honor of the first painting instructor. Open Monday thru Saturday 09h00 to 17h30, Sunday 9h00 to 13h30. Admission fee: $ 2 adults, $ 0,50 children. Phone: 295 2911.

CASA DEL ALABADO, PRE-COLUMBIAN ART MUSEUM

In the San Roque neighborhood, epicenter of popular uprisings, you find this private museum, housed in a building that has been known since time immemorial as the “Casa del Alabado” (literally, the House of Praise). Its name derives from the magnificent central doorway constructed of stone, whose lintel bears the following inscription: “Praise be to the most Blessed Sacrament. This portal was completed on the first of July in the year 1671.” A fine selection of 500 pre- Columbian pieces make up the Museum’s permanent exhibition, and the guidebook, with both scientific and museological content, invites the public to discover

• The story of everyday life of the Discalced Carmelite community in Quito • Life of Santa Mariana de Jesús

San Francisco Plaza Photo courtesy of Quito Turismo the worldview of indigenous Americans and explore the aesthetic and technical excellence achieved by ancient artists as they worked an array of raw materials. By offering visitors the opportunity to visit 14 thematic galleries, the Museum intends to help each visitor understand the philosophy of indigenous Americans, especially the importance of preserving life by maintaining both the flow of cosmic energy and spiritual communication between the distinct worlds that make up the universe. The Museum is emphatic about its educational mission. For this purpose, they offer audio guides in several languages, multimedia programs, interactive resources in some galleries, and special workshops and guided visits for visitors who wish to take advantage of the Museum’s resources interactively and through play. Cuenca Street, N1-41, between Bolívar & Rocafuerte, Quito – Ecuador. Open everyday from 9h00 to 17h30. Admission fees: adults $4, children and seniors $1, students with ID $1.50. No charge for visitors who present their CONADIS Card. www.alabado.org Phone: 2280940 Here we recommend you go back down through Sucre Street to García Moreno Street to continue the visit.

MARÍA AUGUSTA URRUTIA MUSEUM

Located at García Moreno 760. Follow the life and activities of a wealthy and very generous woman of Quito’s early XX century. Observe the architecture of a typical house in colonial Quito. Enjoy the beautifully decorated interiors (especially the French antiques), and the distinctive clothing and artifacts of the time. Open Tuesdays to Fridays from 10h00 to 18h00, weekends 9h30 to 17h30. Admission fee: $2 for adults, $1 senior citizens and $0.50 children (includes a guided tour). For more information call: 258-0103.

MUSEO DEL CARMEN ALTO

A part of the Monastery of El Carmen Alto of San José in old town Quito, former home of Saint Mariana de Jesús, opened as a museum in December 2013. The public can enjoy the artistic, historical and spiritual heritage that has been guarded for over 360 years. More than 1.500 art pieces are exhibited, including paintings, sculptures, textiles, jewelry and unique historic documents. The museum’s permanent exhibitions revolve around three main topics: • Religious art of the Carmen Alto’s Monastery of San José and Saint Mariana de Jesús

“Santa Marianita de Jesús” was born in what is Quito today, and at the time was part of the Viceroyalty of New Granada, on October 31st, 1618. She was born of aristocratic parents on both sides of her family, descendants of Spain. Testimonies state that, almost from infancy, she gave signs of an extraordinary attraction to prayer and mortification, of love of God and devotion to Virgin Mary. During the 1645 earthquakes and subsequent epidemics in Quito, she offered her soul as a victim for the city at La Compañía Church. She died two months later on May 26th, 1645, at age 26. The Republic of Ecuador declared Saint Mariana de Jesús a national heroine in 1946, and in 1950 she was canonized by Pope Pius XII in Rome. Saint Mariana de Jesús is Quito’s guardian, and many miracles have been claimed to have been the reward of those who have invoked her intercession. Her room and garden, the document of her declaration as national heroine, and many other references to her life are exhibited at the Museum, as well as wonderful paintings done by the artist Víctor Mideros on the XX Century regarding her Mystic Life, which are found in the first exhibit room. Curious fact: The Discalced Carmelites sell traditional handmade products at a turnstile that is found on Benalcazar Street in front of the Santa Clara Paza. They sell rose water, cookies, wine, creams and other unique products manufactured in the Cloister. Special recommendation: The guide Esteban Herrera made his University thesis about this new Museum and is very knowledgeable on the topic. If possible, ask for his guidance. The Museum plans to include English interpretation signs soon, however, at the moment they are only in Spanish. Address: García Moreno & Rocafuerte, next to the “Arco de la Reina” Open Wednesdays thru Sundays from 65

9h30 to 17h30 (Last guided tour starts at 16h00) Admission fee: Guided tours in English $4 Adults $3, students with ID $2, children and senior citizens $1, people with disabilities and infants FREE For reservations call 2281513 / 2995 817

MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD

Located at García Moreno 572 and Rocafuerte, this museum is open Tuesday thru Sunday from 9h30 to 17h30. Follow everyday Quito life through the centuries in this beautiful colonial building that once was the San Juan de Dios Hospital (1565). Entrance fee: $3 adults, $2 students, $1 children and senior citizens. Nighttime tours with theatrical representations upon request. Price: $5 per person (includes a cocktail). Phone: 228 3882/3.

LA RONDA

A stroll through La Ronda is a great way to get a feeling of traditional life in colonial Quito. Within only two blocks, one finds artisans working on traditional handicrafts such as candles and embroidery, many “tiendas” (small stores), bakeries and traditional restaurants. Moreover, a variety of cultural activities are organized both on the street and inside the different bars and cafeterias. During the late XIX and early XX Centuries, La Ronda was home to several musicians, poets, histo-

rians and other important figures of Quito’s history. This neighborhood inspired poetry and some of the most romantic “Pasillos” (traditional music). Once out of La Ronda you can go to:

JUNÍN STREET

This charming street is in the downtown colonial district of Quito. Colorful houses and decorated balconies together with a peaceful atmosphere make it a place worth visiting. Along the street you can visit: Manuela Saenz Museum, the Ecuadorian Architecture Museum, the National Watercolour Museum, the XVI Century San Marcos Church, Engravers from the Quitenian School of Art, and a famous guitar factory. Now go up to Guayaquil Street and walk North towards San Agustín Church. San Agustin Church Located at the corner of Chile and Guayaquil Streets. The construction of this church was finished in 1538 and has been remodeled due to earthquake damage. The vault underneath the chorus, the wood carved columns, and the gilded altars are the only remains of the original construction.

SAN AGUSTIN CONVENT

The first thing to admire here are the beautiful cloisters in three different levels, the fountain in the colonial patio carved from a single block of stone, the coffer ceiling in the lower cloister, and the huge collection of paintings by the artist Miguel de Santiago. The art-

ist spent most of his life working in the convent to finish the task of painting the scenes of St. Augustine’s life. Open Monday thru Friday 09h00-12h30 and 14h30-17h00. Saturday 9h00 to 13h00. Admission is $2, children is $0.50 and senior citizens $1. Phone: 295 5525.

SALA CAPITULAR

In this same convent you will find one of the most important historical sites in Spanish America. The first Act of Independence was signed here on August 10th, 1809. The Calvary masterpiece by a XVII century Quitenian artist named Olmos is located to the right of this large room. Entrance fee: US$ 1. Walk three blocks North through Guayaquil Street and turn left on Esmeraldas Street to reach:

CASA SAN LUCAS

This antique manor that dates back to the seventeenth century offers an art gallery with itinerary exhibits, a cafe/bar, a musical room with a large screen where visitors can enjoy music videos, and much more. Visitors can take a tour through the whole house, appreciating antique furniture, silverware and pieces of art. Open Tuesday – Friday 11h00 - 17h00, weekends 10h30- 16h00. Address: Venezuela 1283 and Esmeraldas. Phone: 2950923

La Ronda ST. Courtesy of Quito Turismo 66

CAMILO EGAS MUSEUM

This museum was created to honor one of the most celebrated Ecuadorian artists of the XX century. It holds a permanent exhibit of Camilo Egas’ paintings, in a display that allows one to learn about the different phases in which the artist worked (indigenism, expressionism, surrealism, cubism and abstraction of the shape) in a didactical and hands-on manner. Address: Venezuela N9-02 and Esmeraldas. Open: Thursday to Friday 9h00 - 13h00 - 14h00 - 17h00. Free Admission. Phone: 257-2012 Go up two blocks in Esmeraldas and then go down Benalcazar Street:

BENALCAZAR HOUSE-MUSEUM

This museum displays paintings of the XVII century and sculptures of the XVII and XIII century. It is located at Olmedo and Benalcazar St. Open Monday thru to Friday 09h30 to 13h00 and 15h30 to 19h00. Go one block down Benalcazar street towards Mejía Street and then one block East to:

MUSEUM OF COLONIAL ART

After half a decade of refurbishment, one of Quito’s oldest and most emblematic museums reopened at the end of April 2010. The Museum of Colonial Art houses a fantastic collection of works from the 16th to 19th centuries, ranking among the most important in the country. The museum is housed within a beautiful colonial mansion, which dates back to the late XVI century. Located at the corner of Cuenca and Mejía St. Open Tuesday to Saturday 9h-16h30, Sat 10h-14h00. Phone: 2282-297. Admission fee: adults $2. Now follow Mejía Street East until you find:

LA MERCED CHURCH AND CONVENT

One can admire a stone-carved pagan god, Neptune. Also noticeable are Bernardo Legarda’s main altar woodcarvings and the beautiful image of Our Lady of Mercy in stone. Visiting hours: Monday thru Saturday from 7h00-12h00 and 14h30-17h30. Free admission. Phone: 2280743. To the following attractions we recommend you take a taxi:

SAN DIEGO CONVENT

The Saint Francis congregation built this church to provide the priests and laymen with a place of retreat. Along the corridors are paintings dating back to the XVII C, which had been covered with lime for years and are now being restored. A genuine manifestation of syncretism! Open every day 09h30-13h00 and 14h30-17h00. Phone: 295 2516. Admission fee: $2.00.

EL PANECILLO

Many historical happenings took place on this natural hill that stands in Quito. “Panecillo” means “little bread” referring to its peculiar size and shape. The Virgin that stands on the hill, which consists of 7,000 pieces of aluminum, is a modern representation of the famous “Virgen de Quito”, the unique winged dancing Virgin conceived by Bernardo Legarda in the

XVII century. (The original masterpiece can be seen at the main altar of the San Francisco Church). There is a balcony in the upper part that provides a beautiful view of the city. Open Monday thru Thursday 9h00-18h00, Friday thru Sunday 9h00- 21h00. The entrance fee to the interior of the monument is $1 for adults, $0.50 for children.

Interesting places IN THE NORTH OF QUITO The following sites are not within walking distance from each other. We recommend you take a taxi.

TELEFERIQO

Quito’s TeleferiQo (cable cars) is located on Cruz Loma, one of the hills on the slopes of the active Pichincha volcano (15,000 ft). The cable cars take off at 9,680 ft and reach 13,287 ft in 8 – 10 min! If you are lucky enough to get one of those clear summer days, you can see the city at your feet and the Andean mountain range in all its splendor! When reaching the top, because of the altitude, make sure to take it easy! If you are adventurous, you can climb to the summit of the “Rucu Pichincha”. The cost of the cable car is $8.50 roundtrip. Open everyday from 8h00 to 20h00. At the foot of TeleferiQo you can enjoy VulQano Park, offering carts, roller coasters and other exciting games. 67

where a program of assisted education with horses is being carried out. More than 1,000 children with special needs and senior citizens are benefited with this program. The park is also headquarters for the Scouts of Ecuador. Open Mondays thru Sundays from 6h00 to 18h30. Address: E-18, Avenida de los Conquistadores, No. 358. Guápulo

GUAYASAMÍN FOUNDATION HOUSE MUSEUM AND “LA CAPILLA DEL HOMBRE”

The Foundation was created by master Oswaldo Guayasamín in 1977. A stop at this cultural institution is a must for any visitor to Quito, it develops its activities in the original two Buildings where the world famous Ecuadorian artist lived and worked (1979 – 1999). The house museum is located in one of the edifices. Besides portraying the artist every – day life, the museum exhibits an excellent sample of pre- Columbian, colonial and contemporary art from the private collections of the artist. The museum objective is to bring the artist close to the people, so that his Cosmo vision dreams and way of thinking can be further understood. “La Capilla del Hombre” (Man’s Chapel) is placed, close to the house Museum. This architectonic space is a memorial aimed at the Latin American man, from pre-Columbian times to current days. In the year 1985, the artist Oswaldo Guayasamín conceived the idea and assumed it as his most ambitious artistic project. Unfortunately the artist passed away before his master piece was completed, but his descendents Guayasamín Monteverde continued with the works until the building was inaugurated in the year 2002. “La Capilla del Hombre” is a monument to the history of Ameri68

can Man. The altar of the Chapel holds an eternal flame in defense of peace and human rights. Both museums are open Monday thru Sunday from 10h00 to 17h00. Entrance fee: $6 adults, $3 senior citizens & students.

GUÁPULO CHURCH

This sanctuary is located in the Guápulo neighborhood, 1.5 miles heading down from the Hotel Quito. The sanctuary can be reached by car in about 10 minutes or you can walk down a colonial stone paved path which was the route followed by Francisco de Orellana on his exploration that lead to the discovery of the Amazon River. The facade and the dome of the church have a simple neoclassic style. The main altar painted by Miguel de Santiago and the image of our Lady of Guadalupe by Diego de Robles are original masterpieces. Many consider the pulpit carved by the indigenous sculptor Menacho as the most beautiful in America. Open Monday thru Saturday 08h00 to 12h00 and 14h00 to 18h00. Phone: 256 5652. Free admission.

GUÁPULO PARK

Located in the same charming Guapulo neighborhood, close to the colonial church and overlooking the valley, this park of more than 47 acres includes a picnic area, a camping area, and children games. It also has a horse riding ring,

KALAHARI

Kalahari is a gallery of handicrafts for the home, by several Ecuadorian artists and artisans. It is located at Coruña. Ave. Coruña N30-135 & Whymper Phone: 2557685 / 0992061860

ANHALZER-VALDIVIESO COLLECTION

The showrooms of the Anhalzer-Valdivieso Collection offer visitors an image of the splendor of ancient Ecuador, with a selected presentation of archeology, popular and colonial art. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 to 18h00. Saturday from 10h00 to 18h00. Address: Colón Ave. E10-53. Phone: 2541315. Free admission

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM

This museum is located at the “Casa de la Cultura” on 6 de Diciembre and Patria Avenues. Pre-Colonial, Colonial and contemporary art appear in 1,417 pieces exhibited permanently and in temporary displays. It also presents an opportunity to learn about the origin, evolution and history of Ecuador. Visiting hours: Tuesday thru Friday 09h00 to 17h00/ Weekends and holidays 10h00 to 16h00. Free Admission. Guide service available. Phone: 222-3258.

MODERN ART AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS MUSEUM.

As you enter the museum, you first encounter an important collection of Ecuadorian paintings from the XIX cen-

flora species of Ecuador! It is located at Rumipamba St. inside “La Carolina” Park. Open Monday 9h00 to 13h00, Tuesday to Sunday 9h00 to 16h30. Admission fee: $3,50 adults, $2 children and $1,75 senior citizens.

LA MARISCAL

Quito Botanical Garden tury with a variety of themes and styles: religion, portraits, landscapes, among others. Continuing the visit, you can find important works of art by some of the most renowned Ecuadorian artists: Oswaldo Guayasamín, Eduardo Kingman, and Camilo Egas, among others. Following this is the Musical Instruments Museum. Many of the displayed instruments date to pre-Columbian times. Next to this exhibit you can find an important ethnographic display of the different indigenous communities of the Ecuadorian Andes. Address: Los Espejos Bldg, located between: 6 de Diciembre, 12 de Octubre and Patria Avenues. There is an entrance at each of the avenues. Open Tuesday thru Friday from 9h00 to 13h00 and from 14h00 to 17h00 Saturdays from 10h00 to 14h00.

“La Mariscal” can be considered the entertainment district of Quito, where you find a variety of restaurants, bars, cafes, internet cafes, Spanish schools, and a large range of hosting options. This area is highlighted on the Quito map in a red square. Plaza El Quinde (Reina Victoria and Foch) is one of the most popular meeting points for both Ecuadorians and tourists. Every Wednesday night at 20h30 live music presentations take place at this charming Plaza.

GALERIA ECUADOR GOURMET

This unique Galeria holds exclusive quality products 100% made in Ecuador. It also includes a cafeteria. Address: Reina Victoria N24-263 & Lizardo Garcia. Phone: 2239469 / 2258440. E-mail: info@galeriaecuador.com www.galeriaecuador.com

MERCADO ARTESANAL

This typical handicraft market offers a variety of handicrafts from all over the country for excellent prices, displayed in more than 100 colorful stands. If you are not able to visit the Otavalo indigenous market in the Imbabura province, this market in Quito is a must. It is located at Jorge Washington St. between Reina Victoria and Juan Leon Mera St. Open every day from 9h00 to 19h00.

MINDALAE - ETHNO-HISTORIC MUSEUM OF HANDICRAFTS

“Mindalae” is the pre-Hispanic name of the indigenous tradesman who, with his basket tied to his back, walked long distances carrying merchandise to offer at the popular market called “tianguez”. The second floor of the museum holds an exhibit of utensils from Amazonian cultures, as well as handicrafts are available for sale. The third floor presents a display of the origins of the natural fibers used in textiles, such as seeds and wood from native trees. Finally, at the fourth floor, the museum holds a demonstration of indigenous skills in textile production. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 to 17h30. Sundays and Holidays from 10h00 to 17h30. Located at the corner of Reina Victoria and La Niña St. Admission fee: $3 general, $1.50 students and senior citizens.

Mindalae - Ethno - Historic Museum

EL EJIDO PARK

It is located at the intersection of Patria and Amazonas Avenues. If you like contemporary art, this is the place to be on weekends. A walk in the park will bring you face to face with beautiful paintings and other handicrafts. You may bargain with the artists to get reasonable prices.

QUITO BOTANICAL GARDEN

Explore the fascinating world of plants! This garden displays more than 1,200 orchid species, along with other unique 69

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

Rumipamba Archaeological and Ecological Park

RUMIPAMBA ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND ECOLOGICAL PARK

The most antique stone walls found in Quito are those of Rumipamba Park, a 32hectare complex located in a former private hacienda, now in the heart of the city of Quito. The walls date back to 400 AD. Rumi means stone and pamba, pampas or plains. Rumipamba has some huge stones from the last important eruption of the nearby Guagua Pichincha volcano, which took place in 1660. The Rumipamba site includes a gully that has become a niche for flora and fauna, especially birds. Several flora species including trees, medicinal plants, fruits and others, are found inside the park. It also includes a “culunco”, which is an antique road connecting the highlands with the coast for the commercialization of products. These roads date back to the Yumbo culture, a pre- Incan civilization that inhabited the cloud forests surrounding Quito. Address: between Occidental, América and Mariana de Jesús Avenues (North West) Open: Wednesdays thru Sundays from 8h00-16h00. Free admission.

LA FLORIDA BURIAL CHAMBERS

La Florida Burial Chambers date back to 220 – 640 AD, belonging to the Quitus culture.

10 burial chambers have been excavated, which are 15- 17 meters (49– 56 ft) deep and 2 meters (6.5 ft) in diameter. Large amounts of amazing ceramics, spondylus and other shells, jewelry, wooden objects and gold were found in the chambers alongside hundreds of bodies. The funeral architecture reflects the cosmovision of the Quitus: the human bodies were given back to Mother Earth’s womb. In order to present the archaeological findings in a didactic manner, the museum holds a reproduction of one of the burial chambers with 16 bodies and their respective ritual objects. The replica of the faces was done by experts through a systematic reproduction based on the skulls called “forensic medicine. The museum also has a“robot” that repro-

duces images from the original walls of one of the burial chambers on a screen so that visitors can closely admire the traces of the original structure of the chambers. The complex includes a small museum that exhibits original objects found in the burial chambers. Some of the most impressive pieces are the spondylus ponchos, which were worn by only a few of the buried bodies of hierarchical importance. Address: Calle Antonio Costa, between Román and Fernando Corral St., at the San Vicente de La Florida neighborhood in Northern Quito. Open: Wednesdays thru Sundays from 8h00-16h30. Free admission.

SURROUNDINGS THE MONUMENT ON THE EQUATOR

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It is located approximately 20 minutes away from Quito, at San Antonio de Pichincha. The “Mitad del Mundo City” surrounding the monument includes several restaurants and folklore shops, museums about the missions that measured the Earth, the “Solar Culture Museum” (with a display of the latest investigations about the real middle of the world), and a Planetarium. Inside the monument is an interesting Ethnic Museum. You can shop and place one foot on the northern Hemisphere and the other on the southern

TULIPE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE-MUSEUM

The Monument on the Equator Hemisphere. Entrance fee to the “Middle of the World City” is $3.00, to the Ethnic Museum $3.00, to the Planetarium $1.50. Visiting hours: Monday thru Sunday 09h00-18h00 Phone: 239 4804

INTI-ÑAN SOLAR MUSEUM

Located 200 meters (650 feet) north of the Middle of the World roundabout on Autopista Manuel Córdova Galarza, this didactic in situ museum allows for visitors to witness and participate in several experiments that give evidence to the fact of being exactly at Latitude 0. Visitors can stand an egg on a nail, witness firsthand the Coriolis effect in the Northern and Southern hemispheres only a few meters away, feel the loss of balance when walking along the Equator line, along with other entertaining and impressive experiences, possible only at the Middle of the World! You can also stamp your passport to document your visit to Latitude 0. Furthermore, the museum also holds a Solar Clock, an Anthropological Totemic Forest of the Andean cultures, typical huts of pre- Hispanic cultures of the region, didactic samples of Ecuadorian cultures, as well as native flora and fauna. Open Monday thru Sunday from 9h30 to 17h00. Phone: 2395122. English speaking guides are available. Guided visit: $4 adults, $2 children. For more information visit www.museointinan.com.ec

Inti-ñan Solar Museum

SURROUNDING VALLEYS

The mountains and cliffs surrounding Quito make it difficult for the city to spread out to the sides, thus, it has expanded to the surrounding valleys: Cumbaya, Tumbaco and Los Chillos. Little more than a decade ago, these valleys consisted mostly of open pastures and country cottages. Now they offer all the commodities of a modern city: supermarkets, malls, schools, universities, hospitals, restaurants, good lodging and even movie theaters, but they fortunately have maintained their rustic charm and decidedly slower pace than Quito. Only a few kilometers from the bustling city, but several hundred meters below, the valleys provide warmer weather and a relaxed rural feeling, preferred by young families and many foreigners who live and work in Quito.

Tulipe was built by the Yumbo people, who inhabited the north and northwestern valleys and mountains around Quito from around 800 to 1660 AD. It’s thought that the Yumbo people migrated to the Amazon after a great eruption of the Pichincha Volcano in 1660, and this theory is currently being investigated. Although disregarded by the Spanish chroniclers and subsequent historians, the site at Tulipe, as well as the 2,000 pyramids and mounds now unearthed, point to an important nation. It’s thought that it controlled the crucial trade route between the Pacific coast, the Andes and the Amazon to the east. The remains at Tulipe suggests it was the civilization’s main ceremonial site. It is made up of eight structures, one of which one is of Incan construction, as the conquering Incas built their temple on top of the existing one. Water played a primordial role at Tulipe, with many pools reflecting its ceremonial importance. The “Yumbo People Interpretation Centre” houses didactic information on the site and the Yumbos, and is the starting point for future investigations. Open Wednesday thru Sunday from 09h00 to 17h00. Located between the towns of Nanegalito and Gualea, on the main road Calacali-La Independencia, which heads northwest from Quito. Take the sign-posted road on the right soon after the small town of Nanegalito. Phone: 285-0635. Admission fee: $3 adults, $1 children and students.

Tulipe Archaeological Site - Museum 71

EXHIBITS

MUSIC

Open until Saturday, July 18th

Thursday, July 2nd 19h30 Nicholas Roth: A World of Talent in Concert

Place: Teatro Sucre Admission fee: $10 Tickets for sale at www.ticketshow.com.ec

Friday, July 3rd 20h00

Wednesday, July 15th 20h00 “La Cantata del Café” (J.S Bach) with the Quito Chamber Orchestra Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $30

Saturday, July 18th 21h30 Flamenco show: “Canelazo Trío y Gallardo de la Fé” Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: $25 (includes dinner)

Thursday, July 30th and Friday, July 31st 21h30

Painting exhibit: “Los Muros Iluminados” (The Illuminated Walls) by Miguel Betancourt Inspired by the valley of Cumbayá (now part of Quito), the exhibit commemorates 445 years of foundation of this parish. Place: Xerrajeros Galería Studio Shop

Shlomo Mintz and the Ecuadorian National Symphonic Orchestra Shlomo Mintz is considered one of the most outstanding violinists of our time.

Homage to Flamenco Rumba

Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: $25 (includes dinner)

Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $30

Friday, July 3rd 21h30 Rock Concert: “Rosa y la Cama Destendida” Place: Patio de Comedias Cover: $6

Friday, July 10th 21h30 Thursday, July 2nd thru Saturday, July 28th Monday thru Friday 10h00 - 18h00 Saturdays 10h00 - 13h00 Photo Exhibit “Bajo el mismo cielo” (Under the Same Sky)

THEATER Thursday, July 2nd 21h00 BAM! Magic and Comedy

Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: $25 (includes dinner)

Thursday, July 2nd thru Sunday, July 26th Thursdays thru Saturdays 20h30 Sundays 20h30 Comedy: LADIES NIGHT

Place: Asociación Humboldt Free admission

Friday, July 31st thru Saturday, August 22nd Inauguration on Thursday, July 30th 19h30 Monday thru Friday 10h00 - 18h00 Saturdays 10h00 - 13h00 Speculum “El espejo de la otra mujer” (The mirror of the other woman) Place: Asociación Humboldt Free admission 72

“Dharma Aqua” An experimental fusion of sounds of the world An interpretation based on investigation, that uses genres of Arabian, Hindu, African, Celtic, American and Ecuadorian music. Place: Patio de Comedias Cover: $6

A group of unemployed friends finds a non-conventional solution for their economic problems: to do striptease. Admission fee: $15 general, $8 students, senior citizens and people with disabilities

CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT- QUITO Wednesday, July 8th Monologue: “Las Flores del Olvido” Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: $6

Wednesday, July 15th and Wednesday, July 22nd 20h30

Thursday, July 30th thru Saturday, August 1st 20h30 Sunday, August 2nd 18h30

Thursday, July 9th thru Saturday, July 25th Thursdays and Fridays 20h00 Saturdays 18h00 “Barrio Caleidoscopio” (Kaleidoscope Neighborhood) by Cacho Gallegos

Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: general $12, students $8, senior citizens and people with disabilities $6

Chamber Orchestra Concert in F minor for six musicians with no violins Place: Asociación Humboldt Admission fee: general $10, students $7, senior citizens $5, Thursdays general $5

“Y mientras tanto…. Qué?” (And whilst… what?) A clown solo Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: $6

Wednesday, July 29th 20h30 The Tooth Brush A comedy about living together as a couple Place: Patio de Comedias Admission fee: $6

ADDRESSES: • Casa de la Música: Valderrama s/n& Av. Mariana de Jesús (Hosp. Metropolitano). • Asociación Humbolt: Vancouver E5-54 & Polonia. • Patio de Comedias: 18 de Septiembre E4-26 & 9 de Octubre P(+593 2) 256 1902. • Xerrajeros Galería Studio Shop Calle García Moreno 385, Cumbayá Park P: 0993275871

PREMIUM HANDICRAFTS & ART - QUITO

Direcci贸n: Luis Cordero 444 y Av. 12 de Octubre Reservas: cro.nhcollectionroyalquito@nh-hotels.com

Telf.: 22 33333 ext. 123 www.nh-hotels.com

PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO

RESTAURANTS - QUITO

FOOD & DRINKS - QUITO

CENTRAL ANDES

Quilotoa Crater Lake Photo: Dreamstime.com

The Avenue of the Volcanoes South of Quito, the two parallel chains of the Andes that cross Ecuador from north to south rise to their most dramatic peaks. During his visit to South America in 1802, the German explorer Alexander von Humboldt (XIX C) called this section of the Ecuadorian Sierra “The Avenue of the Volcanoes”. Eight of Ecuador’s ten highest summits are found in this part of the country.

COTOPAXI PROVINCE

On a clear day, from Quito you can see the perfectly symmetrical cone shaped Cotopaxi (19,347 ft), the highest active volcano in the world. This snow-capped volcano and its surroundings make up the Cotopaxi National Park. This park offers numerous activities for adventurers and nature lovers, all immersed in an imposing geological landscape. Although Cotopaxi has had at least ten major eruptions since 1742, it’s been fairly quit since its last burst of activity in 1904. Today, it is Ecuador’s favorite climb. Some of the highlights in this National Park are: the Rumiñahui volcano

(15,600 ft.), and the Limpiopungo and Santo Domingo lagoons. In both lagoons it is possible to see the reflection of the surrounding volcanoes. The Cotopaxi National Park is home to white-tailed deer, rabbits, lamas, Andean foxes and pumas, and over ninety species of birds. Cozy hostels and beautiful traditional haciendas in the region offer comfortable lodging and numerous activities such as horseback riding, biking, trekking, and visits to typical country villages, nearby rose plantations and local markets. The Saquisili weekly market (close to Latacunga) is the one of the most exhilarating in the region. Every Thursday hundreds of indigenous people fill the streets to sell their colorful handicrafts as well as their fresh crops and livestock. Further south, taking a right from the city of Latacunga, riding through an extraordinary view of dense patchwork fields, the imposing Quilotoa crater strikes the visitors’ eye with its extraordinary turquoise water. The hike from the border of the crater (11,840 ft) to the lake at the bottom (7,446 ft) is approximately 30 minutes; we recommend that you hire a mule on the way back. The nearby Zumbahua town has a very

interesting Saturday morning market. Close to the town of Pujilí is the village of Tigua, where many artisans are devoted to the naive art painted on sheep hides, depicting daily life scenes, legends and village fiestas against a bright background of colored mountains and fields. These naive paintings can be found for sale mostly all around the country, and are locally known as Tigua paintings.

TUNGURAHUA PROVINCE

The town of Baños is probably the most charming tourist destination in this province. It is located at the foot of the Tungurahua active volcano (16,500 ft). The town of Baños is a favorite spot for national and international tourists. Its pleasant sub tropical climate and its extraordinary landscape and vegetation are very welcoming. Baños is considered the gate to the Ecuadorian Amazonia, as it is nestled between the volcano and the rain forest. The city has plenty of tourist information, and several agencies offer adventure sports. For years, Baños has been the place where Ecuadorians make pilgrimages to honor “Our Lady of the Holy Water”. 87

CENTRAL ANDES

The walls of the Basilica are covered with paintings depicting miracles that are credited to this Virgin. The town has several hostels for young adventure tourists, but the best accommodations are offered by Samari SPA Resort and Luna Runtún Adventure SPA.

CHIMBORAZO PROVINCE

Chimborazo is the highest Ecuadorian peak (20.702 feet). Moreover, the summit of Chimborazo is the furthest point from the center of the Earth, as it is crossed by the Equatorial line, where the Earth is wider. Chimborazo is the “Colossus” of the mountains of the region, but on a clear day, other impressive snow-capped mountains can be admired: the Altar, the Carihuairazo, and the Sangay volcanoes. Chimborazo province has the largest concentration of indigenous people in Ecuador. These communities worshiped the Chimborazo as a god. Many of them still preserve their way of life, dress, food, and traditions.

Tungurahua Volcano & Baños. Photo Courtesy of Luna Runtun Adventure Spa

Riobamba is the capital city of the province. From here, it is possible to arrange trips to the surrounding mountains. In the city, one encounters indigenous people sharing with mestizos and a minority of white population. The Religious Art Museum “Madres Conceptas” and the Science Museum of the Maldonado School are definitely worth visiting. The history of Riobamba is marked by the fact that it is the link between the Coast and the Highlands.

Riobamba’s importance in the last few centuries was highly due to the presence of the train station, the main means of communication in Ecuador at the time. Today, the train is no longer an important means of transportation, but is a unique tourist attraction. From the Riobamba station, the train departs to the most impressive track of the railway through the “Avenue of the Volcanoes”, which ends up at the “Nariz del Diablo” (Devil’s Nose).

SOUTHERN ANDES

Photograph: Francisco Caizapanta Courtesy of Ministry of Tourism

The southern sierra is made up of Cañar, Loja and Azuay Provinces. Some of the reasons for visiting these three provinces are the Incan ruins of Ingapirca, the valley of Vilcabamba and the historic district of Cuenca. The Southern Sierra of Ecuador is a favorite spot for birdwatchers, especially the Cajas and Podocarpus National Parks.

CAÑAR PROVINCE Cañar is rich in history. This region was inhabited by the Cañari culture from which it took its name. Cañar boasts the most important prehispanic monument of the country, the Ingapirca Inca Vestiges. Located about an hour and 45 minutes from Cuenca, these ruins 92

are the most important architectural legacy of the Incas in Ecuador. Ingapirca means “Incas stone wall”. The vast archeological complex includes a roofless fortification, courtyards, terraces, temples, houses and a “castle,” possibly the “Temple to the Sun.” The entrance fee is 5 dollars. A museum is now open at the site, with both archeological and ethnographic displays as well as a scale model of the ruins. Entrance fee is US$6. An excellent option is to stay overnight at the charming Posada Ingapirca (see page 57). Phone: (07) 2827-401/ (07) 2831-120.

LOJA PROVINCE Both the province and its capital city owe their name to the Spaniard Alonso

de Mercadillo, who founded the city in 1548 at the “Cuxibamba” valley. “Cuxibamba” is the indigenous name of the valley. Loja’s indigenous population maintains ancestral traditions and customs. The city of Loja has an important cultural community. Musicians, poets and other writers are nestled within the city. Loja had a large affluence of scientists during the XVII – XIX century, and so it appears in old European maps as “Nambixa”. Surrounded by rivers that flow to the Amazonia or the Pacific Ocean, one finds several green valleys with warm, fresh and dry weather (64 degrees Fahrenheit and higher), such as the Vilcabamba, Malacatos, Quinara and Catacocha Valleys.

SOUTHERN ANDES

CUENCA

A Cultural Treasure in the Andes Ecuadorians consider Cuenca the most charming city, located in a peaceful and relaxing setting. As you enter the city you can enjoy the outstanding skyline marked by shining church domes. Cuenca’s cobblestone streets, winding rivers, graceful ironwork balconies, and beautiful gardens are part of the pleasant atmosphere of this historical city. UNESCO declared Cuenca a World Cultural Heritage Site in December 1999. The city was first called “Guapondelig”, which in the Cañari language means “a plain as big as the sky”. The

Cañaris were the indigenous group that lived in the region before the arrival of the Incas. In the last decades of the XV century, the Incas built the city of “Tumipamba” (“Tumi” meaning ridge and “pamba” meaning plain), over this Cañari settlement. This city was located along the Inca highway that joined Cusco with Quito. When the Spanish arrived, they called the city “Tomebamba”. Finally, it was baptized as the city of “Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos de Cuenca” (Santa Ana of the Four Rivers of Cuenca). Cuenca stands 8,315 feet above sea level, it is the capital of the Azuay province and the third largest city in Ecuador.

ful houses are found perched along the banks of the four different rivers that run through and around the city (Tarqui, Yanucay, Tomebamba and Machángara).

The colonial past from the days of the Spanish Empire are ever present in the artistry of the churches, convents and religious treasures. Many of the beauti-

A leading industry in Cuenca and its surrounding areas is the manufacture of straw hats. A common misconception among many people is the Panama

One of the highlights are the beautiful handicrafts that can be found throughout the city, including embroidered blouses, wool sweaters, gold and silver filigree jewelry and weavings with tie-dyed patterns called ikat. Cuenca is also known for its elegant ceramic dishes and pottery. Crafts and fresh products can be found on sale at the weekly Thursday fair, or the smaller Saturday market, located at the plazas of 9 de Octubre and 10 de Agosto.

hat. Originally made in Montecristi, on the coast of Ecuador, the hats were sent north to the workers of the Panama Canal and hence the name Panama hat.

INTERESTING SITES EL BARRANCO

The riverfront of the Tomebamba River is the most symbolic site of Cuenca, and serves as the border between the historical and the modern city. The Classical Republican style of the facades of the constructions that surround the river give a special personality to the city. El Barranco is a residential area, as well as a cultural district. The Pumapungo Ruins, the Central Bank and Remigio Crespo Toral Museums, the “Todos los Santos” vestiges, and other sites along this riverfront offer cultural and artistic exhibits.

PUMAPUNGO VESTIGES

Located at the left margin of El Barranco, the Pumapungo (“Puma’s Door”) neighborhood was the first developed zone of the Inca city of Tumipamba. The

architectural elements of the vestiges of this neighborhood show that it was mainly a religious, military, political and administrative center. The vestiges of Pumapungo include walls, channels, cobblestone corridors, isolated enclosed areas, an enormous channel, 1,050 feet of length, with some internal bathrooms, a mausoleum within a tunnel, etc. All this is surrounded by terraces that were used for agriculture. This archaeological complex is complemented with gardens of native plants and a small display of birds of the region. It is part of the Central Bank Museum, located on Huayna Capac Ave. across from Calle Larga. It also includes an archeological museum, a numismatic museum (coins), and a very didactical and up-to-date ethnographic display. Visiting hours Monday: Closed. Tuesday thru Friday 8h00- 17h30. Saturdays, Sundays and Hollidays 10h0016h00. Free admission. Phone: 072831521 ext. 516

THE RUINS OF TODOS LOS SANTOS

Follow the Todos Los Santos Street down the hill. This site has ruins of Cañari, Incan and colonial Spanish constructions. Here you will find the four Incas stonework niches.

CIDAP ARTES POPULARES DE AMERICA MUSEUM

This museum is devoted to the handicrafts of South America. It contains art, crafts and beautiful folklore pieces on temporary exhibitions. Address: 3 de Noviembre and Hermano Miguel streets. Visiting hours: Monday - Friday: 9h00- 13h00 and 14h30 – 18h00. Saturday 10h00-12h00.

LAS CONCEPTAS MUSEUM

Here you will find a great collection of religious art. It exhibits 64 paintings, and more than 200 sculptures, toys, furniture and other samples of craftsmanship. Address: 633 Juan Jaramillo St. Visiting hours: Monday to Friday: 9h00 -18h30 Saturday 10h00-13h00. Admission fee: US$ 2.

Photograph: Courtesy of Victor Larco Aldaz

Photograph Courtesy of Victor Larco Aldaz

MODERN ART MUSEUM

Holding a permanent collection of contemporary art, there are also many artistic activities available for children. The museum additionally hosts the Biannual International Painting Competition. It is located on 1527 Calle Sucre and Coronel Talbot. Visiting hours: Mondays thru Fridays, 9h00 - 17h30 Saturdays 9h00 - 13h00 Free admission. Phone: 283 1027 / 282 0838.

ESQUELETOLOGÍA MUSEUM

Bolívar 6-57 & Borrero streets. Visiting hours: Monday-Friday: 10h00 - 13h00 / 16h00 - 19h00. Saturday 10h00 14h00. Holidays 10h00 to 19h00. Entrance fee is $1,50. Phone: 2821150.

NATIVE CULTURES MUSEUM

This museum was built as a homage to the Ecuadorian indigenous cultures and their 15,000 years of existence. It holds archaeological pieces from the first indigenous civilizations in Ecuador up to those that lived in the XVI century, in more than 5,000 impressive pieces. The museum works in a one-floor antique house that is a cultural-architectonic heritage of the city, built in the

XVIII century. In the back of the house one finds this museum, with a private collection that belongs to Dr. Juan Cordero. There are guides in English, as well as the explanation of the pieces. Address: Calle Larga 5-24 (between Hermano Miguel & Mariano Cueva) Phone: 283 9181/ 2841540. Open Monday- Friday 8h30-18h00, Saturday from 9h00-15h00. Admission fee: $2.

THE SAGRARIO CHURCH (OLD CATHEDRAL)

It is one of the oldest churches in Latin America (1557). Inca blocks from the Pomango Palace were used in its construction. It has marble floors and a gold-leaf altar. The Geodesic Mission used this place as a reference point to calculate the Earth’s circumference. It does not serve as a Cathedral since 1981, and now houses a religious museum. You can ask for a guide at the entrance for an explanation of the details. You can observe part of the original frescos, as well as some metal friezes brought from France that belong to the original construction. Priests’ garmets are on exhibit. What calls more

the attention are life-size sculptures of Jesus and his 12 apostles, which were manufactured in the year 1900 by the Cuencan artist Pablo Luis Alvarado. The pieces are light weight because they were used for processions. The pulpit’s handrail is worth admiring because it has the shape of human ribs to symbolize Jesus’ passion. It was done by the Cuencan sculpturer Sangurima (XIX C). What also calls one’s attention is the “Piedad”, a copy of the original by Miguel Angel in Rome, done by the Cuencan sculpturer José Miguel Vélez in the XIX C. The organ from the back was brought from Germany in 1739. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 to 13h00 and from 13h30 to 17h50. Weekends from 10h00 to 13h00. Admission fee: $2 Address: corner of Mariscal Sucre & Luis Cordero. Phone: 2834636.

CATHEDRAL OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION (NEW CATHEDRAL)

This Cathedral’s construction began 97

in 1880, and is one of the largest of America. The Cathedral is made of alabaster and marble. Its floor is made of pink marble imported from Carrara, Italy. Both Romance and Baroque styles are prominent in its architecture. The stained-glass windows stand out for their beauty. Address: corner of Mariscal Sucre & Benigno Malo.

CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF “EL CARMEN DE ASUNCIÓN”

Both have been preserved in their original XVII century condition. A remarkable treasury of religious art pieces can be found here. The Monastery is closed to the public, but one can communicate with the nuns at the entrance and buy traditional handicrafts they produce. It is located near the main square, to the right of the daily flower market.

FLOWER MARKET

It is open every day. Most of the vendors are cholas cuencanas. The market is a demonstration of the natural richness of the area throughout the year.

TODOS LOS SANTOS CHURCH

This is one of the oldest churches in Cuenca. It is also where the first Catholic mass was celebrated after the Spaniards arrived. The statue of Santa Ana, patron saint of the city, is found here. During the end of the XIX century, it was replaced with the church that currently stands. Address: corner of Calle Larga and Bajada de Todos Los Santos.

MUSEUM OF THE CONCEPTAS

The museum is located in a monastery that dates back to the XVI century. It was one of the fist monasteries that were founded in the city of Cuenca, 42 years after the foundation of the city. Its interior gardens are beautiful and peaceful. Currently, the museum holds several exhibit rooms where one finds Nativity scenes, religious pieces and colonial time furniture. Many of the paintings had didactical purposes for the “unfaithful of the New World”. The Christ sculptures belong to the sculpturer Sangurima, who lived in Cuenca at the end of the XIX century. They have the left over the right foot, characteristic of this author’s Christ figures. Also in exhibit is a room that tells of life in a monastery, close to where a cloister still works. Address: Hermano Miguel 633 & Juan Jaramillo. Museum open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 - 18h30 and Saturdays from 10h00 - 13h00. Admission fee: $2.50 adults, $1.50 children. Phone: 2830625.

HANDICRAFTS ROUTE POTTERY

A place where potters still congregate to work is the “Convención del 45”, located at the west side of the city, on the outskirts of the colonial cask area.

JEWELRY

A very important handicraft in this area because Cuenca is located close to gold and silver mines. Jewelry shops are located along the “Gran Colombia” street.

WEAVINGS

Several artisans in Cuenca are dedicated to manufacturing traditional clothing such as ponchos, skirts, flannels, dresses, embroidered blouses, wool sweaters and weavings with tie-dyed patterns called “ikat”.

BASKET SEWING

Baskets and other utilitarian products are displayed mainly in the San Joaquin Parish.

SMITHY

The workers keep the tradition of working the iron directly with fire alive. The smithy neighborhood is a recommended place to visit.

TINSMITH’S

On the way up to the “Vado” area some tinsmith’s workshops can be found. The products have designs that tell of the blend of cultures that characterizes Cuenca.

TOQUILLA STRAW HATS

Most of the “cholas cuencanas” that live in Cuenca and its surroundings still wear these hats with a black hatband. Toquilla straw hat workshops can be found on the way up to the “Vado” area.

PREMIUM HANDICRAFTS LA ESQUINA DE LAS ARTES

Is a commercial and cultural center for the promotion of the arts. Distinguished designers, artists and artisans have gathered to reveal the different processes involved in the creation of their products, which include ceramics, wood crafts, textiles, glass, embroidery, jewelry straw hats and fashion accessories. Open Monday thru Saturday from 10h00 thru 19h30, Sunday from 10h00 to 14h00. Address: El Barranco / Av. 12 de Abril y Agustin Cueva. Phone: 0999978966. On Saturdays from 17h00 to 18h00 enjoy live music and folkloric dance. www.esquiandelasartes.com

“THE MAGIC OF THE PANAMAHAT” MUSEUM & WORKSHOP

This Museum belongs to “Homero Ortega”, one of the most traditional and renown companies for the production and export of Panama Hats. It renders homage to the women and men, who with their skillful hands and natural artistic sensitivity, weave the toquilla straw hats, erroneously known as “Panama Hats” because they were seen during the construction of the Panama Canal. The craft activity of weaving straw has become a lasting part of the identity of Azuay province. Open Monday thru Friday from 8h30 to 12h30 and from 14h30 to 18h00. Saturdays 8h30 to 12h30. Sundays 9h00 to 11h00. Address: Gil Ramírez Dávalos 386 Phone: 2809000

EDUARDO VEGA’S WORKSHOP AND GALLERY

On the hill of Turi, overlooking the city, 15 minutes by car from downtown Cuenca, is a beautiful place where the reknowned Ecuadorian artist Eduardo Vega has his house, workshop and gallery. Visitors can admire his latest creations in artistic ceramics, ranging from mugs, tiles, and plates as well as wonderful murals that show the lushness of the Ecuadorian landscape & traditional costumes, and contemporary designed unique pieces. You can also find good books and complimentary coffee and biscuits. Open: Mon-Fri 8h00 - 17h30, Weekends 9h30 - 13h30. Phone: 07 2881 407 www.eduardovega.com

CUENCA’S SURROUNDINGS Beyond Cuenca and its cultural and architectonic charms, there are many places to visit nearby. Wonderful nature as well as small towns and parishes that seem stuck in time, reminding us of their early inhabitants: the Cañaris and later the Incas.

BAÑOS

Only 5 miles East of Cuenca, you can find soothing hot spring waters. These thermal waters of volcanic origin reach the surface with a temperature of 158°F and cool down to 95°F -104°F.

CAJAS NATIONAL PARK

Cajas is located 19 miles northwest of Cuenca, at an altitude of 9,000 to 13,000 feet above the sea level. This is a place for those who love the great outdoors. Some of the many things to do and see are camping, fishing, hiking miles of trails through a scenic

preserve, and enjoying more than 230 lagoons of glacial origin. A guided tour of the area allows one to admire a breathtaking landscape and unique fauna and flora. Warm clothing is recommended due to the low temperatures (32°F - 47°F).

COJITAMBO

Approximately 30 miles from the city of Cuenca, surrounded by an extraordinary landscape, are the ruins of Cojitambo. These constructions belonged to the Cañari indigenous group, who lived in the area before the arrival of the Incas. The ruins lay at approximately 10,000 feet above sea level.

GUALACEO

This is a subtropical valley, approximately 22 miles away from Cuenca towards the Azogues town. At “El Descanso” take a right to reach Gualaceo. This town is known for its handicrafts, folklore and a beautiful river where you can go for a swim.

CHORDELEG

Located 10 minutes from Gualaceo, it is a pre-Incan town where important archaeological objects can be found. This brilliant culture inhabited the area between the years 500 and 1500 BC. The artisans offer Ikat ponchos, pottery, straw hats and jewelry. This is the place to buy the finest gold and silver filigree at a very reasonable price. There is also an excellent ethnographic museum in the square in an old courtyard house, where you can see weavers at work and find good shawls, scarves, belts and embroidery for sale.

NABÓN

This little town is located an hour and a half south of Cuenca in a charming valley. Colorful fields welcome visitors to a place where people are always polite and joyful. The Duma-Para Cañari Ruins are located closeby. This was the place where the Cañari Chief Duma was defeated by the Incas, who then susequently ruled the land. At Nabón one also finds the traditional Ecuadorian Tequila or Chahuarmishqui, a very tasty alcoholic drink that is produced in an artisan way by locals. Another attraction at this site are fine handicrafts made of reed.

OÑA

Oña is located 103 km south west of Cuenca, 7,870 ft above sea level. May is a special month at this site as the San Felipe Festival takes place on the 3rd and the celebration of the town’s establishment takes place on the 10th. One of Oña’s highlights is the parish of Susudel where people are mostly dedicated to agriculture and handicrafts. There is a gallery where skillful ladies exhibit clothes and other handicrafts made of recycled materials and natural textiles. Susudel has a XVIII Century church, as well as a colonial house that serves as a Cultural Center where children learn information science and have access to the Internet. It’s called the “House of Paris,” after its last owner who was French. 100

PREMIUM RESTAURANTS - CUENCA

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PREMIUM HOTELS - CUENCA

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LOJA

Lagunas del Compadre

History and Botanic Center

lively, with a small population of approximately 150,000 the city has an active cultural life and several universities.

There are two daily flights from Quito to Loja, overlooking the avenue of the volcanoes. One can also take a bus from the city of Cuenca for a 4-hour drive with a breathtaking view, but through a winding road. The airport is located at “La Toma” in the Catamayo valley, 15.5 miles away from the city; an approximately 40 minute drive. You can share a taxi to the city that will charge $12. The buses arrive in the center of the city.

Two rivers cross through Loja: Malacatos and Zamora, which give a unique personality to the city. It is one of the cleanest and safest cities in Ecuador. The city has streets, plazas, churches and monasteries from colonial times, such as the Cathedral and the Santo Domingo, San Francisco and San Sebastian churches.

The city of Loja stands 6,724 feet above sea level, with an average temperature of 60 to 69 Fahrenheit. Colorful and 106

Most Lojanos are extremely religious. It is common to find religious processions at the Main Plaza, or sometimes even popular bands and fireworks. Lojanos are especially devoted to the “Virgen del Cisne” (Virgin of the

Swan), a sculpture by the Ecuadorian Diego de Robles (XVI C), which is kept at the Cathedral for a large portion of the year, but also has a gothic church dedicated to her, 43 miles from the city.

ATTRACTIONS IN LOJA MAIN SQUARE

The buildings of the main civil and ecclesiastic authorities: the Provincial and City Governments, the Episcopal House and the Cathedral surround the plaza. Although the original architecture of most of these buildings has been modified, they still portray a taste of the Spanish legacy. The building that houses the Central Bank Museum still preserves its original architecture.

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM

This museum is most interesting. It holds an archeological display (mainly of the Macara and Catamayo cultures), religious art of the XVIII century, an ethnographic exhibit on the Saraguros, and a small display on the history and uses of the “quinina” plant. The museum also houses temporary exhibits on the first floor, and there is a concert every month. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 thru 13h00 / 14h00 thru 17h00. Free admission. Phone: 2573 004 / 2566 651.

LOURDES STREET

A stroll through this street sets you in an old colonial city, especially between Bolivar and Sucre streets. Observe the well preserved wooden balconies, interior patios, cobblestone streets… and stop by at the small shops where you can find a little of everything, including handicrafts. Visit the “Cera” neighborhood to observe the production of ceramic handicrafts.

MUSEO DE LA MÚSICA

Located at Bernardo Valdivieso 09-42 & Rocafuerte. This museum displays musical instruments, notes, pictures and awards of nationally famous musicians from Loja. Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00 to 13h00 and from 15h00 to 19h00. Free admission. Phone: 2561342.

BOTANICAL GARDEN

At the South of the city you can find a Botanical Garden that is the only botanical garden at 6,560 feet above sea level in the inter-Andean region. It is over 50 years old and holds more than 1.000 plant species. Open Monday thru Friday 8h00- 18h00 and Saturdays & Sundays 9h00 18h00.

MALACATOS VALLEY

Right to the south of the city, the charming Malacatos town holds colorful wooden houses that surround a main square where live music is played every Sunday. At this site you can visit a sugar cane “molienda”. The “moliendas” are open Monday thru Friday and you can observe the workers through-

out the whole process of manufacturing of raspadura (sugar scraping), using the same machinery that has been used for generations. On the way to Vilcabamba, observe a hill in the shape of a “sleeping Inca”. This hill is called Mandango, and is believed to have been sacred for the Incas.

VILCABAMBA VALLEY

This charming valley (at 4,921 ft.) located approximately 1 hour South from Loja city (25 miles) has become a favorite spot for tourists, especially young adventurers on their way to or from Peru. The name Vilka Bamba or Huilcopamba means “Sacred Valley” in the indigenous tongue Quechua. This site was reserved by the Incas for the main noble authorities, as it is a peaceful and quiet place. Perhaps this tranquility is the reason for the old age of the valley’s inhabitants. It is common to find healthy people of over 100 years of age that live here and still work in agriculture.

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Many investigations have been made to determine the reason for the longevity of Vilcabamba’s inhabitants, and some factors have been identified: temperate weather, a water rich in minerals, a diet low in fat and high in fiber and magnesium, the peacefulness of the valley and extensive physical activity. People that suffer from heart disease move to Vilcabamba to imitate the lifestyle of its inhabitants. From Vilcabamba you can arrange horse and bicycle excursions throughout the valley or in the nearby access to the Podocarpus National Park. The Mu-

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nicipality has opened an information office at the corner of the main park. PODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK This National Park is located 11 miles South of Loja city. The park was named after a tree species commonly known as “Romerillo” (Podocarpus montanus). This is a gigantic Coniferous that has adapted to the tropical Andean forests. These trees can reach a height of 131 ft. and live up to 1.000 years. The Podocarpus or Romerillos is in danger of extinction because of the over exploitation of its valuable wood. Now

the trees can be found at the Sabanilla region near Loja and at the Podocarpus National Park. Podocarpus NP holds 3,000 – 4,000 plant species and more than 600 bird species (including Macaws, Cock of the Rock, hummingbirds, toucans, tangaras, etc). It holds endemic bird species such as the Jocotoco Antpitta (Grallaria ridgelyi).The park has an area of 361,452 acres, and has several different ecosystems that range from the Paramo or moorlands at 12,073 ft, down to the low mountain forest at 2,952 ft, passing through the evergreen

high-mountain and mountain forests. Among the plant species are: bromeliads, orchids and ferns, as well as the Mascarilla Chincho-na, the Cecropias or Guarumos (Cecropia sp.), and bamboo (Chusquea sp.) From “El Refugio” it is possible to follow any of the four following trekking routes: “Spectacled Bear” 437 yards, “Cloud Forest” 765 yards, “View Point” 1 mile or 3 miles, up to Sabanilla at 11,482 ft., and “Compadres Lagoon” 9 miles where you can find a fluvial system made up of 105 lagoons, 3 of which are easily accessible.

From the Podocarpus NP heading towards the Zamora province, you will encounter impressive hill formations, created through a process of wind and water erosion. Open every day. The entrance fee to the park is $10 and $5 for children under 12. It is better to hire a guide in Loja, since there is no information offered at the park’s entrances. Phone: 3024837. TAPICHALACA RESERVE A special site for birdwatchers has been built in the Tapichalaca Reserve that belongs to the Jocotoco Founda-

tion. Tapichalaca has an area of 9,386 acres. It borders the Podocarpus National Park and is located right nexto to the Loja-Zamora Province border. It is named after the Tapichalaca hill. Jocotoco is the common name of a bird species (Grallaria ridgelyi) that was recently discovered (1997) at this site. This bird spends more time “walking” on the bushes than flying, and makes a sound similar to a dog bark. There are bird feeders surrounding the house at the entrance to the reserve, where an amazing diversity of hummingbirds of all colors and sizes welcome visitors.

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At first glance, the rain forest is a vast green wilderness. However, when one observes carefully, this ecosystem is full of surprises for its visitors. Not only is each tree very different from the next, but also for every tree, there are hundreds of other plant and animal species in constant interaction. Tropical rain forests occupy 7% of the Earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface, but they hold 50% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biodiversity (Myers 1988; Wilson 1988). These forests are found in Central America, Africa and Asia, but the biggest area extends throughout the South American Amazon. To truly take advantage of the rain forest, one must awaken all five senses to discover how exotic life forms have evolved to live together in a minimal amount of land. The embracing sounds tell of the various birds and insects that keep this living forest in constant change. One must carefully observe the many other animal and plant species, as they have amazing color and texture adaptations that can be easily confused with the scenery. The various smells tell of the chemicals that the plants have developed as a defense from herbivores, and many serve in medicinal use for humans. In contrast to what one may think, the soil of the rain forest is not fertile. The nutrients that supply this exuberant ecosystem are the product of a constant interaction between the living and dying organisms on the surface. 110

Decomposition is vital to the dynamics of the forest. Thus, it is important to preserve this ecosystem in its entirety. The temperature in tropical rain forests is quite stable, with a variation between day and night. However, this ecosystem is far from being stable. Rainfall is seasonal and results in major changes for the living organisms. Disturbances also add to the high dynamics of this ecosystem.

Many hypotheses have been made to explain the impressively high diversity in tropical rain forests, and each provides an insight to better understand this complex ecosystem. The competition for resources has led organisms to adapt to unique niches, thus resulting in a number of specialized and interdependent organisms. The overwhelming complexity of the forest makes one wonder about the an-

cestral knowledge of the indigenous inhabitants. These cultures have passed their knowledge from generation to generation as a way to keep the secrets hidden in this magical site. In Ecuador, the East of the Andes falls into this exuberant ecosystem. Locally the Amazonia is called Oriente, as it lies on the eastern side of the country. It occupies almost half of Ecuador’s territory, however, it is home to less than five percent of the country’s population. The Ecuadorian Amazon region is basically divided into Northern Oriente

(Sucumbios, Napo and Orellana provinces) and Southern Oriente (Pastaza, Morona Santiago and Zamora Chinchipe provinces). The Ecuadorian rainforest is home to nine natural reserves, including the two largest mainland protected areas, Parque Nacional Yasuni and the Reserva Faunistica Cuyabeno. Opportunities to visit primary forests and to interact with local communities are offered by our sponsors. Contact them to immerse yourself in a splendor of life and discover a different way to look at the world!

CLIMATE: The climate is precisely the one you would expect form the rainforest – hot and humid, with plenty of rain. April to July are the wettest months, but you can expect cloudbursts most days throughout the year, especially during the early afternoon. Typical daytime temperatures fluctuate around 25ºC (77ºF), even though daily highs can reach over 32ºC (90ºF).

IMPORTANT TIPS AND RECOMMENDATIONS WHAT TO BRING:

• CASUAL AND LIGHT LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS AND LONG PANTS (BECAUSE OF THE INSECTS AND THE BOUNTIFUL VEGETATION). • HIKING OR COMFORTABLE SHOES. • BATHING SUIT. • RUBBER BOOTS & RAIN PONCHO (ALTHOUGH MOST FACILITIES HAVE RUBBER BOOTS IN SEVERAL SIZES AND RAIN PONCHOS AVAILABLE FOR THEIR GUESTS). • SUNSCREEN LOTION. • INSECT REPELLENT. • A HAT. • A BACKPACK. • A FLASHLIGHT WITH EXTRA BATTERIES. • BINOCULARS. • CAMERA. • WATERPROOF BAGS FOR YOUR BELONGINGS. • CASH (BANKING FACILITIES ARE POOR IN THE ECUADORIAN ORIENTE). • EMERGENCY SUPPLIES: MOST LODGES OFFER FIRST-AID KITS, BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO CARRY YOUR PERSONAL KIT. • IF YOU ARE ALLERGIC TO INSECTS, DO NOT FORGET THE NECESSARY MEDICATIONS IN CASE YOU MIGHT FACE A CRISIS.

• ORIGINAL PASSPORT (REQUIRED AT SOME SPOTS AT THE ECUADORIAN AMAZONIA). • VACCINATIONS AND MEDICINES: IT IS RECOMMENDED TO CONSULT YOUR PHYSICIAN TO GET THE MOST UPDATED INFORMATION AND ADVICE. FOR SOME SITES DEEP WITHIN THE RAINFOREST, YOU MIGHT BE REQUESTED A YELLOW-FEVER VACCINATION. YOU MAY ALSO WANT TO TAKE MALARIA PILLS; CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR.

HOW TO GET THERE:

FLIGHTS ARE OFFERED TO THE FOLLOWING CITIES: • COCA – CAPITAL OF THE ORELLANA PROVINCE – ROUNTRIP FLIGHT APROX. $120, SERVED BY THE LOCAL AIRLINE TAME. • LAGO AGRIO – CAPITAL OF SUCUMBIOS, THE NORTHERN-MOST PROVINCE OF THE ECUADORIAN AMAZONIA. THE CITY OF LAGO AGRIO IS NOW OFFICIALLY CALLED NUEVA LOJA. TAME OFFERS DAILY FLIGHTS FOR APROX. $120 ROUNDTRIP. • MACAS- CAPITAL OF THE MORONA SANTIAGO PROVINCE. TWO LOCAL AIRLINES OFFER THIS SERVICE: TAME AND SAEREO- ROUNDTRIP APROX $140. * THE CITIES OF TENA AND PUYO CAN BE EASILY REACHED BY LAND (A 3 - 4 HOURS DRIVE FROM QUITO).

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PREMIUM LODGING - AMAZONÍA Napo Wildlife Center The Napo Wildlife Center is one of the finest examples of sustainable, community-based ecotourism, actively protecting 82-square miles of pristine rainforest within its private reserve. The lodge’s ecologically sound facilities include electricity created from solar energy and high-efficiency generators, and wastewater treatment that produces pure water, later recycled back into the ecosystem. Hunting has been voluntarily ceased for well over a decade, creating an environment of hospitality towards our fellow faunal community. Napo Wildilfe Center includes a 120 ft high forest canopy tower that is located about 20 minutes from the lodge deep within the terra firme forest. Ascending the sturdy, 12-story, galvanized metal tower allows visitors to pass through different levels of the forest and emerge on top of the canopy. Here one can cross onto a platform that is actually built into the crown of a huge emergent Ceiba tree.

Parrot Clay Licks

The two most accessible parrot clay licks in Ecuador are part of the Napo Wildlife Center Reserve, and one of them includes viewing blinds so that visitors can comfortably watch as hundreds of parrots and parakeets come to eat the clay that aids in the digestion of their diet of toxic seeds and unripe fruits.

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EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Quito - 593 2

Cuenca - 593 7

Amazonas Ave. 477 & Roca Phone 2562292

Ave. Las Monjas N10 & Carlos Arosemena Edf. Hamburgo PB. Phone 2208777 - 769

Austria

Gaspar de Villarroel E9-53 & Av. de Los Shyris Phone: 2469700

Circunvalación Sur 718 & Guayacanes (Urdesa) / P: 2384886

República Del Salvador 1082 & Naciones Unidas / Phone: 2276145 / 2273910 / 2273338 Amazonas N39-123 & José Arizaga Edif. Amazonas Plaza Ph: 2277000

José A. Campos (Zaruma) 101 & García Avilés Phone: 2310505

Av. Amazonas N41-53 & UNP Edificio Eurocenter 3rd floor Ph: 2455499

Ave. Juan Tanca Marengo & Ave. J. Orrantea / Ph: 2158333

Juan Pablo Sanz 3617 & Amazonas Edif. Xerox / Phone: 2453327

Ave. 9 de Octubre & Malecón Edif. La Previsora 23th floor Of. 2303 Phone: 2562-995

Colombia

12 de Octubre 24-528 y Luis Cordero Phone: 2222486

Francisco de Orellana, Edificio WTC Torre B Phone: 2630674

Costa Rica

Javier Arauz 111 y Germán Alemán Phone: 2252330 / Fax: 2252330

Egypt

Tarqui E4-56 & 6 de Diciembre Phone: 2225240 / 2509501

France

General Leonidas Plaza 107 & Patria Phone: 2943800

José Mascote 909 & Hurtado Phone: 2328442

Gran Colombia 661 Mezanine Phone: 2837693

Germany

Naciones Unidas Edif. City Plaza, 14th floor / Phone: 2970820

Ave. Las Monjas #10 & Carlos Julio Arosemena Edif. Berlin / Ph: 2206867 - 8

Bolivar 918 & Benigno Malo Phone: 2822783 / 2838836

Great Britain

Naciones Unidas Edif. City Plaza 14th floor / Phone: 2970800 / 801

Gral. Cordova 623 & Padre Solano Phone: 2560400 / 2563850

Israel

Av. Coruña E25-58 & San Ignacio Edif. Atana 5th floor / Phone: 3971500 / 55

Av. 9 de Octubre 729 & Boyacá Phone: 2534503

La Isla 111 & Humberto Albornoz Phone: 2561077-4

P. Icaza 423 entre Córdoba & B. Moreno Phone: 2568358 / 62

Japan

Amazonas Ave. N39-123 & Arízaga / Phone: 2278700

Km. 11.5 Vía Daule Phone: 2100600 ext 212

Korea

Ave. 12 de Octubre & Cordero Edif. WTC Tower B 3th floor / Ph. 2909227

Mexico

Av. 6 de Diciembre N36-165 &NNUU Phone: 2923770 / 71

Peru

República Del Salvador N34-361 & Irlanda / Phone: 2468410 / 11 / 04

Francisco de Orellana 501 Edif. Centrum 14th floor Phone: 2280135 / 2280114

Russia

Reina Victoria 462 & Roca Phone: 2526361 / 2554510

Av. del Bombero Km. 7 1/2 vía la costa Phone: 3731540

Spain

La Pinta 455 & Amazonas Phone: 2555733 / 3226296

Velez & Tungurahua Esquina Phone: 6017460

Switzerland

Amazonas N35-17 & Juan Pablo Sanz Edif. Xerox 2nd floor / Phone: 2434949

Juan Tanca Marengo Ave. Km 1.8 Phone: 2599900 Ext. 034

Turkey

Sebastián de Benalcazar N9-28 entre Oriente & Esmeraldas / Ph: 2511490

Urb. El Rio #120. Km 1 1/2 vía Samborondón Phone: 2830210

U.S.A.

Avigiras E12-170 & Eloy Alfaro Phone: 3985000

9 de Octubre Ave. & García Moreno Phone: 2323570 / 2327663

Uruguay

Av. 6 de Diciembre 2816 & Paul Rivet / Phone: 2563762

Junín 114 & Malecón Phone:2311058 / Fax: 2563952

Venezuela

Ave. Amazonas 30-240 & E. Alfaro Phone: 2557209 / 2554483

Chile 329 & Aguirre Phone: 2326600 / 2326579

Belgium Brazil Canada Chile

Italy

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Guayaquil - 593 4

Argentina

C.C. Dicentro Locales 33-34 Ph: 2277065 / 6017484

Gill Ramirez Dávalos 1434 y Turuhuaico / Phone: 4089054

Ave. José Peralta & 12 de Abril Edif. Acrópolis Phone: 4103630

Gran Colombia & Luis Cordero Edif. El Dorado / Phone: 2832807

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ECUADOR BY TRAIN Nariz del diablo (devil’s noise)

The Railway to Discover Ecuador The construction of the Ecuadorian railroad began in the late XIX century, and by 1908 the stretch Quito-Guayaquil was completed. Nowadays some of the tracks have been refurbished and offer a unique way to discover Ecuador’s contrasting landscapes. We recommended that you visit the Eloy Alfaro train station in Chimbacalle (Quito). It includes a museum and a cafeteria. TRAIN CRUISE From the majestic Andes to the tropical coastal plains of Ecuador, “Train Cruise” allows for passengers to enjoy the most spectacular and contrasting landscapes of Ecuador. The Train Cruise journeys for four days, traveling 500 km (310 miles) with an average speed of 25 to 30 km / h (15 – 19 miles per hour). For more information and reservations: E-mail: trencrucero@trenecuador.com Phone: (593 2) 399 2100 ext. 1175 www.trenecuador.com/crucero Some of the regular train routes that are open at the moment are: 116

Tren de los Volcanes (Train of the Volcanoes) Quito - El Boliche (Leave in bus) and El Boliche - Machachi - Tambillo - Quito (Return in train) Distance: 59 Km (one way) Duration: 8h45 Itinerary: Thursday / Friday / Saturday / Sunday and Holidays Excursion standard: USD 39,00 An incomparable journey. You’ll marvel at the beautiful landscapes, diverse eco-systems and the majesty of the Andes. Nariz del Diablo (Devil’s Nose) Alausi – Sibambe – Alausi Distance: 12km / Duration: 8h30 min / Itinerary: Tuesday to Sunday and holidays / Departure: 8h00 / 11h00 / 15h00 Excursion standard roundtrip - $25 Standard plus roundtrip - $35 This route through striking Andean landscapes includes a zig zag railroad that at the time of the construction was one of the most demanding engineering works. Although short, the ride is fascinating! Tren de la Libertad (Liberty Train) Ibarra – Salinas – Ibarra Distance: 30km / Duration: 1h30 min Itinerary: Wednesday to Sunday and

holidays / Departure: 10h30 Excursion one way: $10 Excursion standard rountrip: $15 Express Travel (Autoferro trip auto guidance): Roundtrip $6.50 This fascinating journey crosses through a number of bridges and tunnels built by pickaxe and shovel through the mountains and hills. In only 30 km, one passes through a variety of contrasting landscapes wich are home to/of different cultures. Sendero de los Ancestros (Ancestors’ Trail) Riobamba – Colta – Riobamba Distance: 25 km / Duration: 4h15 min / Itinerary: Thursday to Sunday and Holidays / Departure: 12h00 Excursion Standard – Roundtrip $15 During this journey the tourist will enjoy the amazing landscapes of the Andes and will visit the Balbanera church, the oldest in Ecuador. This attraction as well as the majestic Chimborazo volcano and the Colta lake present a mixture of history and tradition. TICKET POINTS Quito: El Quinde Store / Address: Venezuela s/n & Espejo / Phone: (593 2) 2288696 Guayaquil: Malecón Simón Bolívar www.trenecuador.com phone: 1-800- TRENES (873637)