ISSUE 3
SEPTEMBER 2010
Front Cover The Thistle & Clover Diaries
Stories from the Dressing Room Floor
Make sure all important Fall/Wintertext 2010& objects are at least .25" (or preferably .5") from the edge of the trimmed page
Editors' Letter
RAND NIEDERHOFFER & CAMILLA GALE
Welcome to the 3rd issue of the Thistle & Clover Diaries! The T & C Diaries, as you know by now, are part of our initiative to expand the concept of the ‘neighborhood boutique’. Our store has always been more than just a place to peruse the latest fashions. From our Open Calls, to our Tailored Event Nights, to our participation in Fashions Night Out, our goal is for our customers (you!) to walk away with not just a shopping bag or two, but a greater understanding of the designers we stock. Happily, with the advent of social media, the blogosphere, and online fashion communities, it is easier than ever for boutiques like T & C to reach a global audience. To that end, we were recently asked by our friends at Etsy to address our methodology for choosing young designers. We received hundreds of inquiries immediately after the post went live; it was really exciting for us to communicate online with such a broad spectrum of talented individuals. We were also featured in video segments on 2 cutting-edge websites, InTheMo and Arcade44. For our Arcade44 shoot (picture above), we hosted a Brooklyn round-table showcasing T & C designers Caitlin Mociun, Ellen Van Dusen and Sarah Seilbach. You can see the whole video online at www.arcade44tv.com and www.inthemo.com The T & C Diaries are ultimately an extension of the community we seek to foster. We hope that by flipping through the following pages, you’ll come to know these talented women just as we have, gaining more insight into their fall collections and learning a little about what makes these ladies so special! Enjoy!
TABLE OF CONTENTS Editors' Letter.....................Page 2. Fischer.............................Page 4. MCMC Fragrances.....................Page 6. Eskell..............................Page 8. Payal Luthra........................Page 10. Hello Robertson.....................Page 12. One Per Diem........................Page 13. One & The Same......................Page 14. Shaina Mote.........................Page 16. Bittersweets NY.....................Page 18. Nissa Jewelry.......................Page 19. Nona E. Rose........................Page 20.
Fischer
KRISTINA ANGELOZZI
Kristina Angelozzi started her label Fischer (the name is a nod to her Scottish heritage) just one year ago. After doing her undergrad work at an art school in Pennsylvania, she took a job creating costumes at a theater, and subsequently enrolled in Parsons to study fashion. Fischer is for both men and women, and Kristina sees them mainly as comparable customers: “I think my Guy and Girl are pretty much the same person. They like [similar] music, movies, etc., so it’s natural that they like the same clothes. The only difference in the creative process is which side to put the buttons on…” The self-described “slightly offbeat, casual” designer says her quintessential outfit consists of “a straight plaid or striped dress, solid cardigan or denim shirt and a piece of jewelry”. She would eventually like to add accessories and shoes to her line. -CG
Mad Libs with Kristina
I’ve been designing for 7 years. I’ve lived in Brooklyn for 9 years. My favorite date night restaurant is Applewood. The best outdoor dining scene is the Brooklyn Flea. The best place to go dancing is Blobs Park, a Biergarten in Baltimore with real Polka [dancing]!. If I could have anyone wear my clothing it would be Serge Gainsbourg & Jane Birkin. I’m currently coveting chunky over-the-knee socks for Fall 2010. The best fashion advice I’ve ever received is that the devil is in the details. If I weren’t a designer, I would be a unicorn.
Boatneck Cotton Stripe Tee, $65.
Juneau Collared Blouse, $165. High Waisted Wool Shorts, $185.
MCMC Fragrances
ANNE MCCLAIN
Anne McClain started her first perfume collection just this past year. And at the time this publication goes to print, her work will have already been featured in New York Magazine, Lucky Magazine, and InStyle, along with various other online zines and blogs. Anne happened upon a class in natural perfumery by chance. A photographer by trade, Anne took pictures because she loved to “capture life’s beautiful and ethereal moments.” When she began studying perfumery, she “saw that [she] could better capture the essence of these moments through scent, choosing ingredients and layering them to completely recall a whole environment.” Anne was hooked. She enrolled in the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in France and never looked back. “We trained our noses to memorize about 500 different scents… We were tested on them by having to recall the ingredient, and sometimes even the country of origin, just by smelling an unmarked strip.” Anne’s first 4 scents form the beginnings of her Stories Collection. Noble, Maine, Maui, and Hunter are not only sweet-smelling fragrances, they are designed to conjure up memories of people and places from her past. “At my first-ever perfume class, I started to conceptualize how I could encapsulate my own memories and stories in scent. I travel a lot and often after these experiences, I’m left with some transformative memory.” Noble, for example, pays homage to her time spent in Nepal. She describes the scent as a sort of collage made up of “incense, prayer flags, jasmine, and the umber and crimson color of monks’ robes.” -RN
"I started to conceptualize how I could encapsulate
my own memories and stories in scent. "
Mad Libs with Anne If I had to sum up my collection in one word it would be ethereal. The scent I wore growing up was Kiehl’s Original Musk. The best place to go dancing is PS1’s Warm Ups. My signature cocktail is Jarabacoa Lime! (Made up by my husband in the countryside when we were in the Dominican Republic) If I could have anyone wear my fragrance it would be Cheri Messerli. The closet I’d most like to raid belongs to Erin Wasson. If I could hire any one in the world to act as my mentor it would be Jean-Claude Ellena. The one thing I wish I had known when I started designing is that there are going to be ups and downs.
Stories Collection: Perfumes, $110. Roll On Oils, $45.
Eskell
ELIZABETH DEL CASTILLO & KELLY WHITESELL
The Chicago-based store and in-house line Eskell has been setting fashionistas’ hearts a flutter ever since Elizabeth Del Castillo and Kelly Whitesell founded the collection in 2005. Kelly takes fashion risks while Elizabeth is more conservative, but the two designers find that their love of “old, beautiful things” helps them reach a middle ground. At T&C, we have a dedicated Eskell fan base that fits the mold of the Eskell girl: “intelligent with a sense of humor, and a solid sense of self.” The easy, chic silhouettes flatter all body types, and the vintage inspired prints feel unique and special. As Kelly says, “Our line is somewhat simple, so I don’t consider it needing a lot of bling. I think of Eskell as go-to clothing; when you can’t decide what to wear, you can throw it on and feel good about it.” The design/store veterans believe that knowledge is key when starting up on your own. “A basic understanding of the fashion industry is crucial. Get to know the garment district in NYC, how things work etc. Hanging around New York for a few years and working in fashion is a great idea, and a crash course. You don’t have to live there forever, but you’ll need it as a tool if you are starting a clothing label.” -CG
Opposite Page: Evie One Shoulder Dress, $248. Fabian Dress, $285. This Page: Keira Keyhole Dress, $221. Lorella Cut Out Dress, $239.
Mad Libs with Elizabeth & Kelly This is our collection’s 10th season. If I had to sum up my collection in one word it would be easygoing.
The place I go to think is my bed. I spread everything all over the place and sit amongst my ideas. My favorite place for girly drinks is Dannys. What I love about the fashion industry is the madness. If I could have anyone wear my clothing it would be Charlotte Gainsbourg. The best fashion advice I’ve ever received is just be yourself. If I could have any one designer act as my mentor it would be Isabelle Marant. If I weren’t a designer, I would be an Event Planner.
Payal Luthra
Though Payal Luthra was born in the US and received a master’s degree in architecture from Harvard, her Indian heritage has imbued every part of her personal and professional aesthetic. It’s fitting, therefore, that when constructing her line of woven accessories, she decided to base her production in India, using age-old techniques and local artisans. For her luxurious line of scarves and neck warmers, Payal collaborates with a woolen mill in India, which has been in the business for over 100 years. The mill utilizes an amalgam of traditional weaving techniques, in-house Kashmiri embroiderers, and modern computer-operated weaving systems. It’s this delicate interplay of modernity and artisinal craftsmanship that makes Payal’s line so successful. Her first Fall/Winter collection is inspired by “the image of a fashionable downtown girl throwing on [her] pieces and running out to a café in snow-dusted Moscow…[who] exudes an effortless style, minimal yet luxurious”. Payal plans to continue her light cashmere weaves for Spring 2011, and to introduce some new silk blends. She also has a forthcoming jewelry line, to which we look forward with bated breath! “I wanted the collection to be chic and modern yet lasting. Each design is meant to be an investment piece to wear from one winter to another. To achieve this, the cashmere has to be top quality, the cuts and draping have to flatter the body, and there needs to be an element of versatility so that the wearer can individualize and enhance their own personal style.” -RN
Bandit Tassel Cashmere Shawl, $224.
Bandit Tassel Cashmere Cowl, $224.
Hello Robertson
HANNAH ROBERTSON & KELLY REYNOLDS
Bobby Pins, $14. . Headbands, $24.
Though Hannah Robertson and Kelly Reynolds focused on interior design while at college, the two friends have found their true calling designing fun and flirty hair accessories under the name Hello Robertson. Another Open Call success story, Hello Robertson brings a little southern spirit to our Yankee City with hairpins and headbands made out of vintage pinstriped and floral textiles. Many of their materials are sourced in Harlem at their favorite fabric store. For their collection, Hannah & Kelly look to the past: “[we wanted] to replicate the days of women wearing great pill box hats and gloves to parties…they accessorized from head to toe, were so polished and dapper, and we wanted to bring a little bit of that glamour to today’s fashion scene.” But they know that their accessories aren’t for the proverbial fashion wallflower: “[we] always include a piece in the line for the woman who is not afraid to stand out and be bold in her accessories.” -CG
Mad Libs With Hannah & Kelly This is my collection’s 3rd season. If I had to sum up my collection in one word it would be dapper. Best outdoor dining scene is the Boat Basin. For Brunch, I love Freemans. Right across the street from our studio. Best place to go dancing is Naked Lunch. The closet I’d most like to raid belongs to Kate Spade. The best fashion advice I’ve ever received is ”If it looks right, it’s right.” Dorothy Draper. If I could hire any one in the world to act as my design mentor it would be Jenna Lyons. If I weren’t a designer, I’d be traveling and exploring.
1 Per Diem
VANESSA ESPINOSA
Vanessa Espinosa’s first season is a curated collection of 3 handbags inspired by 19th century railway train luggage. Vanessa used the notions of “wanderlust, paint rubbing off, edges fringed from use and print fading from wash” as departure points for her line. “Growing up, I remember visiting my grandparents and [finding] all these treasures. One of them was this rustic train case. I wanted the bags to feel like [they were] tucked away in an old attic, but given a second chance”. Originally hailing from the Philippines, Vanessa came to New York to pursue a career in diplomacy. However, she quickly realized that her heart lay elsewhere. “I dreamt of having a handbag line ever since I read an article of a Filipina bag designer in college.” Vanessa eventually enrolled herself in a one-year intensive study course at FIT in Merchandising and Marketing. “I feel that Filipinos are underrepresented; now is the time when our voices should be stronger than ever. I am driven by [a] passion to represent my country”, she says of her job change. Going forward, Vanessa hopes to expand into different style ways, and to continue to use textural contrasts in her handbags (her current favorite combination is a buffed goatskin with lizard trim). -RN
Handbags from Left to Right: Crosby, $974. Bowery, $640. Mercer, $440.
One & The Same
ALESSANDRA OLANOW
A career in graphic design brought Alessandra Olanow from Canada to New York. While at a design firm in SoHo, Alessandra mindlessly scribbled one of her illustrations on a simple cloth bag she owned. She thought nothing of it until people began to stop her on the street and inquire after her bag. Once enough people approached her, she decided to take the plunge and produce a limited run of silk-screened totes. She found a bag supplier in the American Midwest, enlisted a friend of hers to help with the silk screening, and a collection was born! New York is Alessandra’s inspiration. Her drawings depict people and things you might see if you settled into Leigh Lezark’s New York: tattooed baristas at fashionable downtown bars, or colorful locals from Alessandra’s own Cobble Hill neighborhood. Alessandra’s taste runs towards the practical. She has an understanding of what it means to be a young professional in the city and designs, and prices, her pieces accordingly. Recently, Alessandra added greeting cards to her repertoire. Our favorite? A card with two lobster linking claws bearing the text You Complete Me. -RN
All Totes, $26.
Mad Libs with Alessandra If I had to describe my collection in one word it would be whimsical. The place I go to think is a swimming hole in Saugerties. My favorite date night restaurant is Il Buco. My favorite place for girly drinks is Fort Defiance. The best outdoor dining scene is Frankies Sputino My signature cocktail is red Lillet with a slice of orange. If I could have anyone wear my clothing it would be Leonard Cohen. I’m currently coveting all the Myne prints for fall.
"Ever since I was a little girl I was drawing. It was
the first way I learned to express myself.�
Shaina Mote
The self-taught, Los-Angeles based designer Shaina Mote recently launched her eponymous line in Spring 2010. She first learned how to sew when she was about 14, picking up tricks of the trade from the mother of a friend. The rest is history! For her earth-friendly collections, Shaina sources her textiles from designer dead-stock, which means that each piece is a limited edition. “I’ve always liked the challenge of using what already exists to make something new.” Shaina designs for “a girl with her head in the clouds, and feet on the ground,” and cites such independent style setters as Rachel Comey, Samantha Pleet, Wren, Isabel Marant, Mociun, and Osei Duro as designers who have helped inform her aesthetic. We fell in love with Shaina’s label when we saw her 1940s-inpired Fall collection lookbook, shot by fellow University of St Andrews student, Samantha West.
“Prepare to dedicate days to finding the perfect button, weeks to finding the perfect fabric.Don’t settle for anything less So what’s next? “I see the line remaining quite small and branching out to small, homespun boutiques in the U.S. and Europe.” We can’t wait to find out what happens! -CG
than your vision.”
Top Right & Left: Bay Trousers, $128. Bottom Left: Wildberry Cardigan, $116.
Bittersweets New York
ROBIN ADAMS
Robin Adams is the mastermind behind cult jewelry label Bittersweets NY, which until last year also was a free-standing store in Williamsburg. While at the University of Minnesota, Robin fell in love with foundry classes and subsequently worked as a metal worker for the next few years. It was through metal smithing that she discovered her talent for jewelry making. Though she loved the contact with her customer base, Robin has found that she’s enjoyed scaling back on the administrative end of running a store because she can now focus exclusively on jewelry design. Bittersweets is replete with gothic/romantic charms and embellishments like daggers, bleeding hearts, and vampire teeth. We’re still most fond of her teeny letter rings, which are completely customizable and have adorned many a newlywed’s ring finger! Q: What kind of girl do you design for? A: I’m not too picky. Every single customer I’ve dealt with has been absolutely darling. So I don’t know if I’m designing for them, or if they found me somehow. Q: How do you like to see your favorite pieces worn? A: In the bathtub, with lots of bubbles! Q: Describe your personal style. A: Smudgy; sprinkled with a little bit of gold dust. Q: Did you have a specific source of inspiration for this season? A: This year was all about the first breath of spring and renewal. Pretty refreshing after starting the line with maggots! Q:You have already garnered a dedicated following-- How did you achieve that? A: Lots of long hours trying things out. And it’s cliche but, customer service and connecting with your customers is really important to me. -CG
N
Nissa Jewelry
NISSA RASMUSSEN WEGIENEK
Nissa Wegienek founded her jewelry line in 2008. In order to fund her endeavor, Nissa, resourceful as ever, hawked the entire contents of her designer wardrobe on eBay. We first met Nissa through our Open Call where she presented a collection of to die for statement necklaces rendered in oxidized silver, sterling, and gold vermeil. The necklaces were a huge hit with our girls, and we ended up writing a rapid reorder. Shortly thereafter, we collaborated with Nissa on a T&C exclusive necklace (which inspired various incarnations for her Fall 2010 line), and featured her in our Valentine’s Day Tailored Event Night. Nissa honed her craft selling wares at the young designers market in Nolita. “Doing markets allowed me to interact directly with customers, get their input on the designs [and] hear what they liked (or didn’t like) about the pieces…I also made some great contacts both with other designers as well as with stylists and [the] press.” Each season, Nissa reinterprets beautiful vintage pieces in an array of contemporary iterations. For fall 2010, the designer was inspired by Tudor England and Henry the VIII—but infused the collection with pops of bold color. The result is a line brimming with party ready pieces sure to revamp any LBD. -RN
T
he best advice I ever received was DON’T. Because that just made me want it MORE.
Nona E. Rose
RACHEL SAX
Nona E. Rose, the accessories line by Rachel Sax, is based upon the premise that “half of what you wear is how you wear it”. After all, with the correct accessories, you can wear your “plainest tee to your fanciest party,” or “your fanciest dress to your most casual affair.“ Rachel’s early memories of playing dress up in her grandmother’s closet have helped inform the line’s style. “The women of my grandmother’s generation were an incredible group of ladies who helped support their families in the post-depression/ post-war years, raised their children, and still managed to look fabulous 24 hours a day.” Rachel effortlessly marries vintage aesthetics with modern styling to create a fresh take on glamour. The collection is an impressive feat, considering that Rachel still holds a full time job at Polo Ralph Lauren. Her work at the venerable design house has streamlined her stylistic vision and helped her appreciate the value of classic pieces one can wear forever. She likes to, “make tried and true pieces that can be updated each season and worn in new ways.”
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For this coming holiday season, Rachel plans to expand into bib and statement necklaces. Quoting cult film Empire Records, she says, “There are 24 useable hours in every day!” -RN
Feather Headband, $22. Airplane Belt with Leather, $120
Q: Describe your personal style. A: My style is very feminine, cheerful and comfortable (I have no patience for clothes that are to tight or too short). Getting dressed should be a fun addition to your morning instead of a chore you have to do before work. Q: What’s a quintessentially ‘you’ ensemble. A: A highwaisted, tailored skirt (or shorts in the summer) and a comfortable, bright top (possibly with a little puff sleeve) accessorized with a great belt and fun jewelry. Q: What are your favorite pieces from the collection? A: I hate to play favorites but my new Airplane Belt for Fall 2010 is going to be difficult to part with. I also love the Jeweled Steel Grey Headband [formerly] at T & C. Q: Where do you go to think? A: The American Wing of the Met or a bench in Tompkins Square Park both of which go hand in hand with an iced coffee from 9th Street Espresso. Q: Favorite place to go dancing? A: The Dark Room on the Lower East Side. Q: Favorite date night restaurant? A: Ten Belles on Broome Street. Q: What’s your signature Cocktail? A: A Dark & Stormy.
221 DeKalb Avenue ° Brooklyn, NY ° 11205 (718) 855-5577 (t) ° (718) 855-5533 (f) ° info@thistleclover.com° www.thistleclover.com
Fall & Winter 2010 Designers CLOTHING Alisha Levine Amanda Uprichard Chris & Jaime Dace Daftbird Demylee Dusen Dusen Eskell Fischer Geren Ford Joie Kyumi Lewis NYC Lily & Jae Manisse Myne Shaina Mote Sophia Reyes Trovata Tylho Wren
MagCloud.com 1501 Page Mill Rd, MS 1157 Palo Alto, CA 94304
JEWELRY
Amanda Rudey Bittersweets Blanca Monrós Gómez Catbird Emma Carroll Emily Rothschild Jene DeSpain Katrina LaPenne Lauren Wimmer Max Steiner Mociun Nancy Kraskin Nektar de Stagni Nishi Nissa Plum Poupette Rebecka Fröberg Thistle & Clover Private Label Tirana
ACCESSORIES
Aki Kano Handbags Blue Ribbon Stationery Chan Luu Scarves Fleabags Handbags Hello Robertson Hair Accessories LauLau Bags MCMC Fragrances One and the Same Totes & Letterpress One Per Diem Handbags Payal Luthra Scarves Rachel Sax Belts & Headbands Teeny House Bunny Tokyo Milk
POSTAGE