A Touch of Spice: Indian Cooking with a Contemporary Approach
Noorbanu Nimji An International Best Seller
A Touch of Spice: Indian Cooking with a Contemporary Approach
Noorbanu Nimji An International Best Seller
Introduction Indian cooking as it is known today, whether Persian or Moghul derivation can trace its origins to the northern part of India. It spread from there, often carried by travelers who reached the great plains through the legendary Khyber Pass, and evolved according to the local food resources. Books on Indian cooking abound. This book differs in that, although the origins of the recipes could still be traced to Northern India, the recipes changed with the immigration of the Ismailis to the shores of Africa in years past, when the Arabic influence was paramount. This added a new dimension to their culinary evolution. More recent travel and immigration to Canada, where plenty of meat and fresh vegetables are available and where an emphasis on the nutritional value of food is a watchword, has led to further changes in cooking style, so that a dish prepared from A Spicy Touch is the mirror of the culinary history of a people.
You could eat these foods in restaurants, but if you cook them at home you have the added benefits of learning an art and introducing an exciting new fare to your guests. It may even become the conversational piece of the party. Traditional dishes in an ever-changing pattern of evolution, in keeping with the tempo and taste of the times, are both nostalgic and refreshing. Talk of curry and Indian spices may conjure up an image of a flame-spewing dragon. This myth has no validity in modern cooking. The culprit in the pungency of the fare is the amount of hot pepper used. If more than necessary is added, it will naturally create a fire. The Indian cooking in this book is light and delightful and should not need a cooling system for an over-heated engine. The recipes in this book have found flavour in many Ismaili and other homes and are presented here so that you may share the traditions and developments of a time-honored Asian cuisine.
Table of Contents 3 4 6 9 19 37 47 57 85 107
Introduction Menus Glossary Chapter 1 - Soups, Drinks, Chutneys & Raitas Chapter 2 - Hors D’Oeuvres & Teatime Specials Chapter 3 - Rice & Chapatis Chapter 4 - Vegetable, Bean & Lentil Curries Chapter 5 - Fish, Poultry & Meat Entrées Chapter 6 - Sweets & Desserts Index
Persian Pilau Serves 4 to 5 1 lb. 500 kg 1 cup 250 mL 1 tsp. 5mL 2 lbs. 1kg 1 tbsp. 15mL 2 tsp. 10mL 2 tsp. 10mL 1 tsp. 5mL 1/2 tsp. 2mL 1 cup 250 mL 2 cups 500 mL 1-1/2 cups 375 mL 3 oz. 115 g 3 oz. 115g 1 tbsp. 15mL 1/8 tsp. 0.5mL 20 4 4 4 6 1-3 6
chicken backs and necks for stock chopped onion cumin seeds chicken breast, cut into strips 2”x 1” (5 x 2.5 cm) lemon juice salt, divided crushed ginger crushed garlic crushed hot pepper, or to taste finely diced tomato basmati rice, washed and soaked in warm water for 10 minutes fried onion, OR slivered almonds golden raisins chopped coriander leaves yellow food colour (powder) strands saffron cloves small cinnamon sticks cardamom pods black peppercorns hot peppers, slit large onions, fried oil for frying (onion, almonds and raisins)
Instructions:
1 B oil chicken backs and necks in water
to cover for 1-1/2 hours; reserve stock. Heat oil, add 1 cup (250 mL) chopped onion and sauté until slightly brown. Add whole spices, slit hot pepper, cumin seeds and sauté for 1h a minute. Add chicken, lemon juice, 1 tsp. (5 mL) salt, ginger,garlic, hot pepper, tomato and continue cooking until chicken is almost cooked, adding stock if necessary.
2 Add reserved stock, to make 4 cups (1L) liquid in an in the mixture.
3 Add rice and cook until all the water
is absorbed and the rice is cooked. Fry second amount of onion and set aside.
4 Fry almonds and raisins in a little oil until
raisins pop. Set aside. Stir food colour and saffron in 1/4 cup (50 mL) water and set aside. In another saucepan make layers of cooked pilau (rice mixture), fried onion, slivered almonds, raisins, chopped coriander and sprinkle with a mixture of yellow food colour and saffron.
5 Repeat until everything is used. 6 Place in 300°F (150°C) preheated oven for 20 minutes.
7 Serve hot with Kachumber (page 13), and Kaila (pages 17-18), or plain yogurt.
8 When eating, set whole spices aside,
DO NOT EAT.
Chicken or Meat Curry Serves 4 4-6 tbsp. 2 cups 2 tsp. 2 1/4lbs. 1 tbsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/4 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/4 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1 tsp. 1 1 6
60-90mL 500 mL 10mL 1kg 15mL 2mL 1mL 2mL 2mL 1mL 2mL 2mL 5mL
oil hot water tomato paste chicken pieces, skinned coriander leaves cumin powder tumeric powder coriander powder crushed hot pepper chilli powder, or to taste garam masala crushed garlic crushed ginger medium tomato, chopped medium onion, sliced or chopped small potatoes
Variation: Instructions:
1 Saute onions over medium heat until
golden brown. Add chicken and saute for further 3-4 minutes.
2 Add tomatoes and tomato paste and
all the spices, except garam masala and coriander leaves and cook until half done.
3 Add potatoes, again cook for a few
minutes and add hot water. Cook until chicken and potatoes are cooked.
4 Add garam masala and coriander leaves. 5 Serve with rice or Chapati (page 40). 6 If serving with Chapati, a drier sauce is required so add less water.
7 For stronger or milder cuny add or
reduce spices to your personal taste.
Palakh Chicken: same recipe as above with an addition of spinach but less water. The sauce has a very dry consistency. Chicken Masala: has a very thick sauce made with the basic cuny sauce plus: 1 tbsp. (15 mL) plain yogurt, 1 tbsp. (15 mL) lemon juice; 8 strands saffron. Garnish with hard-cooked eggs and serve with Parotha (page 43), or Pita bread. Chicken can be replaced by cooked beef, ground beef or cubed lamb. Because meat takes longer to cook it can be added before spices and cooked until tender or cooked meat can be used. For best results, curries can be cooked ahead of time and reheated thoroughly before serving.
Samosa Pastry or Wrappers Makes 24 1 1/2 cups 2 tbsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/4 cup + 3 tbsp.
375 mL 30 mL 2 mL 105mL
all-purpose flour white vinegar salt water Loose flour for preparation Cooking oil and brush for preparation
Instructions
1 Make a pliable dough with the first 4 ingredients.
2 Knead well. Divide dough into 8 portions. 3 On a generously floured board, roll each portion into a circle: 6 portions into 6” (15 cm) diameter; 2 portions into 1” (11 cm) diameter.
4 Brush each of the pastry rounds with
oil. Sprinkle with a little flour. Stack the rounds starting with 1” (11 cm) circle first and oiled sides facing; brush with oil and repeat the process, using all the circles and ending with the 1” (11 cm) round. Do not apply oil on the top.
5 On a floured board roll the stack of
rounds, turning over frequently, into 11” (21 (:m) diameter.
6 Heat a griddle to 315°F (190°C) and using the rolling pin, lift the round onto the griddle, lower the heat to minimum and cook for 1 minute only. Turn over, start peeling and separate each round until all 8 rounds are separated. Stack these parcooked rounds to keep them from drying.
7 While still hot: trim 1/4” (0.5 cm) off 2 sides of the rounds.
8 Cut into 3 equal strips. 9 Trim to the shape shown on page 21 and keep covered in damp cloth until used.
10 Can be frozen for over 3 months
wrapped in aluminum foil. Thaw before using.
Alternate Cooking: Bake on greased foil in the centre rack of the preheated oven at 500°F (2600C) for 3 to 4 minutes; remove and peel off the rounds. If hard to peel, bake again for 1 minute.
Folding of a Samosa (A Triangle) Figure 1 X
A
E
Figure 2 X
C
D
B
F
D
B
F
Figure 4 pocket for filling
1st Fold - Bring Point A to B - as in Figure 2. 2nd Fold - C to D - Figure 3 - with a tiny overlapping at point X. 3rd Fold - E & F meet forming a diamond shape.Turn over and the lower half will have a pocket - fill this with the Samosa filling. 4th Fold - Close the pocket by applying paste to the edges (E&F Points) fold and seal, thus forming a triangle.
F
A
E
Figure 3 E
C
Meat Samosas Makes 20-24. 1 lb. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 2 tbsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/4 tsp. 1 tbsp. 1/2 tsp. 1 1/2 cups 1 Paste: 3 tbsp. 2 tbsp. 3 cups
500g 2mL 2mL 2mL 30mL 2mL 2mL 1mL 15mL 2mL 375 mL
lean ground beef, chicken or turkey salt crushed ginger (see glossary) crushed garlic lemon juice cumin powder crushed hot pepper to to taste chilli powder chopped coriander leaves Garam Masala (see glossary) small onion, finely chopped spring onion, finely chopped chopped hot peppers (optional)
45mL 30mL 750mL
water all-purpose flour oil for deep-frying Samosa Pastry (Pre-prepared - page 20)
For smooth crisp pastry, deep fry Samosas as follows. Preheat oven to 200째F (100째C). Place a few Samosas in oil, turn heat to medium and cook turning often until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve hot. Can also be served with Tamarind Chutney. For prolonged frying, remove half of the hot oil from the wok, add more cold oil, and then fry additional samosas, or wait until the oil cools down.
Instructions
1 Cook ground beef on medium heat, stirring 3 Drain fat thoroughly from the mixture and breaking all lumps until the colour of the meat starts to change.
in colander and then drain again on kitchen towel.
2 Add salt, ginger, garlle, lemon juice, cumin,
4 When mixture Is cool add chopped onions,
hot pepper and chllli powder. Continue cooking untll aU the water has evaporated and the mixture is completely dry.
fresh coriander leaves and garam masala. Adjust salt and chopped hot peppers to taste.
5 Make paste by blending water and flour. 6 Fold Samosas as shown in the diagram on
the opposite page (see Samosa Pastry Preparation)
Glossary AGAR AGAR (Chinese grass) - Agar Agar is a vegetable product and is used for setting liquids without refrigeration.
CLOVES (laving) - Cloves are aromatic, and are used whole or in powder form.
BURGHUL - Burghul is crushed wheat sometimes referred to as bulgar. It can be purchased from Lebanese specialty stores.
COCONUT CREAM - There are different kinds of coconut cream or powder, which can be purchased from Indian specialty stores. Fresh coconut can be used as well. Chisel out white flesh, cut flesh into small pieces and blend with a little water. Squeeze the pulp through a sieve and use the white liquid instead of ready cream or powder. This process may be repeated for weaker milks. The used flesh should be discarded.
CARDAMOM “Seed of Paradise� (Elaychi) - A relative of the ginger plant, grown in tropical regions of the world, cardamom is a small oval, green or white (bleached) ridged pod containing several small black seeds. It has a sweetish eucalyptus-like aroma. Its culinary uses include desserts, pilaus, sweet rice dishes, desserts, cakes and cookies as well as meat and fish dishes. The whole pod, includi ng the skin, is used. Also believed to stimulate the appetite, cardamom seeds are believed to contain oils that prevent cavities and help control dandruff. The cardamom with green pods is commonly used. It can be used with or without pods. Freshly ground cardamom with pods is used all through these recipes. Note: cardamom is highly aromatic. CASSAVA (mogo) - Mogo is a tropical rootstock. It is also called Yucca or tapioca. CHILLI POWDER (lal chutney) - Chilli powders differ in strength. Therefore special care should be taken to use to your personal taste. CINNAMON (tug) - Cinnamon has a pleasant, sweet taste and aroma. It can be purchased in sticks and powder form. CITRIC ACID (limboo na pbool) - Citric acid is used instead of lemon juice. It can be easily purchased from an Indian grocery.
CORIANDER (dhana) - This can be purchased in seeds, coarsely ground or powder form. Fresh coriander leaves (kothmir) are also sold in some supermarkets and specialty food stores. It is also called Chinese parsley or cilantro. Can be grown from seed. CUMIN (jeera) - This can be purchased in seed or powder form. Best ground in coffee grinder. CURRY LEAVES (limdho) - Curry leaves are like bay leaves, but much smaller. They are sold fresh or dry. Fresh can be kept frozen in a container unto used. DAALS (lentils) - Split beans are called daals (lentils). There are many different kinds of lentils. This is a good source of protein. EDIBLE SILVER PAPER - Edible silver paper is used to garnish any sweet dish. It is available at Indian grocery stores. It is very delicate and should be bandied carefully and gently.
FENUGREEK (methi) - Fenugreek are tiny yellow seeds. They are used In pickles. Coarsely ground can be purchased from Indian grocery. They can also be grown and the leaves are used In special dishes, and leaves are called methi ni bhajl. ENO (Eno’s Fruit Salt) - Eno Is a mixture of sodium bicarbonate and tartaric acid. GARAM MASALA - A combination of spices which varies from cook to cook In spiciness and hotness, see recipe page 18. Commercial versions are available In Indian or Oriental food stores. GARLIC (lasan) - Garlic is sold in most food stores, either fresh, powdered, or In dehydrated flakes. It is also sold In paste form. Throughout this book, dehydrated flakes are used. Soak dehydrated garlic flakes in water for 2 hours, and then blend In food processor with the minimum amount of water necessary. This can be stored in refrigerator or freezer. Minimum amounts of garlic have been suggested in these recipes, add additional garlic according to your preference. GHEE (clarified butter) - The best-flavoured ghee is made from unsalted butter. See recipe, page 18. GINGER (adu) - It Is sold as fresh root, dried, ready paste, and In cans. Through this book the cans are used. Discard the water and then blend In food processor with a little water. This can be stored In the refrigerator or freezer.
GRAM FLOUR (channa no atto) - This Is the flour made from black chickpeas, and is also known as channa. It Is very high In protein and Is gluten-free. It is widely used for making savoury and sweet dishes. GUM ARBIC (gund) - Gund Is purchased In a crystallized form. When frying gund, special care should be taken. If fried In clarified butter, make sure that there Is no water left, otherwise gum will not pop. It Is Important that gum (gund) pops up when fried and Is no longer hard or sticky. HOT PEPPER - A few varieties are available, fresh or In powder form. They are differentiated by colour and strength. As seeds can be very hot, they may be removed. Prepare with care under cold running water, (use gloves If necessary), wash hands immediately afterwards as handling may cause stinging of the skin. Making a small slit In pepper before frying will keep pepper from erupting In oil. (Ohio State University research has proven that capsaicin - a chemical found In hot peppers - significantly reduces cholesterol levels and can help ward off heart attacks and strokes). JAGGERY (ghor) - Sold In Indian grocery stores. This Is the semisolid stage of sugar cane. It has a light yellow to dark orange colour, and the flavour of molasses. KATAIFI PASTRY (shredded dough) - This Is Lebanese pastry and Is sold In supermarkets and Lebanese grocery stores.
MUSTARD SEEDS (ral) - They are round black seeds used to flavour vegetables and other dishes. Coarsely ground for pickles can be purchased from Indian grocery. MASOOR (lentis) - They are brown In color. Split masoor are red in colour. NUTMEG (jalphal) - It has a pleasant smell and is used In sweets. OMUM (ajma) - Ajma are tiny seeds, sold In Indian grocery stores and are used for vegetable dishes. PAPADUMS - A kind of flat crispy wafer which can be bought from Indian grocery stores, ready either to be broiled or deep-fried in oil. PAPRIKA POWDER - Paprika powder is not hot, as It Is made from bell peppers. It is used to give color and reduce the hot taste. Use Instead of chilli powder. PATRA (advi-na-bhajia) - Patra are ready, canned In India, and can be purchased from Indian grocery store. POPPY SEEDS (khas khas) - Poppy seeds are tiny seeds commonly used In sweet meats.
RICE - There are many varieties of rice: long grain, Basmati rice, patna, American and more. For best results, the rice should be washed In :5 to 4 changes of water, then soaked for 10 to 20 minutes; longer soaking reduces the cooking time. Only the loose rice requires washing and soaking, the pre-packed varieties can be prepared as the package directs. SAFFRON (kesar) - Saffron Is the most expensive spice available and Is used for Its flavour and colour In Biryani, pilau, and sweets. SUGAR SYRUP (chasni) - For various sweets different kinds of sugar syrup Is required. The strength Is measured by strings (tar). Boll sugar and water for few minutes and check by a drop between thumb and forefinger. Press and separate; If the syrup forms strings (tar) It Is called one string of tar. If two or more strings form, the syrup will be thicker. It can also be tested with a candy thermometer or by dropping a drop on a plate. The lighter strength syrup will spread and heavier will stand like a ball.
TURMERIC (haldi) - This Is only used In a savory dish to give colour. It has an antiseptic value. Salt and turmeric is used for sore throats and weak gums. TAPIOCA STARCH - Is purchased from any leading supermarket, Chinese or Indian grocery stores. WHEATLETS (soojl) - Wheatlets Is also known as cream of wheat and semolina. YELLOW FOOD COLOUR - Sold In Indian groceries In powder form.
A
Touch of Spice can fill your home with the exotic aromas of faraway India, and delight your palate with flavours from subtle to sumptuous. From Biryani and Badam Pak, Samo~s and Sev - you are offered a full range of Indian cuisine from drinks and appetizers, through main course, to desserts and sweets. To help the uninitiated, the author includes a glossary, explanatory notes plus menu and serving suggestions. She has transformed her years of cooking and teaching into a very contemporary, usable cookbook. Historically, for Asian women cooking was one of the arts taught in the home, so for Noorbanu Ninyi, success depended greatly on her ability in the kitchen. She spent many years learning traditional Indian cooking from her mother, and was able to expand her skills and repertoire cooking Indian dishes in the luxury hotels her father owned in Kenya. She came to see that her contribution could be the modernization and clear presentation of this ever-evolving culinary tradition. After immigrating to Canada in 1974, she taught classes in Indian cooking and, along with the duties of home and family, set herself to the task of putting her years of practical experience with food into a publishable form. A Touch of Spice is the result of Noprbanu Ninyi’s lifelong romance with cooking.
ISBN 0-919845-43-6