THOM. WC //PORTFOLIO
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2051 DIFFUSION THE VIRAL PILGRIMAGE SEA OF SOULS ADIDAS
BUY ME WEAR ME FEEL ME
2051 DIFFUSION A/W 2015/16
Taking my 2051 collection, I diffused it in collaboration with H&M for A/W 2015/16. The core theme runs throughout, taking the idea that companies and governments use propaganda and media to make our decisions for us and that we lack autonomy. A more literal and obvious approach to this was taken, as at this market level I truly believe people don’t engage with their clothing choices on the same level as those who purchase at higher levels. As a result I took the offensive sheep ‘exbleative’ and simplified for the market and added directional slogans to force opinion in such a literal manner, almost as an insult to intelligence (although would likely be taken as a humorous idea), but with an individual, inverted sheep to make them think that they are that individual, unique black sheep… Some of the shapes are continued from the main line including the tape along the outer silhouette and padded silhouettes holding the same, “we are soft for media” idea. Accessibility is also added to the collection with simpler garments including t-shirts and knitwear and constriction has been removed from the line-up entirely to ensure all items would sell at this level, as a result these garments tend to be styled unique to this collection and thus do not cheapen the main line. The colour scheme follows a much similar route, however removing the lavender, as it wouldn’t sell as successfully at a mainstream market level.
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outfits 4-6
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I DON’T DO MISSIONARY
THE VIRAL PILGRIMAGE A/W 2015/16
A high-end collection to retail in Dover Street Market, The Viral Pilgrimage A/W 2015/16 is a menswear collection that explores the current social climate in which younger generations find it easier to follow mainstream media and viral videos/images than religious culture and spiritual leaders (specifically Chirstianity/Catholicism). Symbolism takes root in the collection in obvious and obscure elements. Catholic priest uniforms was the main source of inspiration in showing the religious aspect; mostly developed through the shirts with incredibly sharp collars throughout the collection as well as the strongly tailored jackets and other sharp lines seen throughout - the black and white colour scheme also was taken from this inspiration. The bright pop pink is the clearest reference to viral videos, the Internet and modern culture as to create an extreme difference to the tame black and white base. Similarly the large, irregular lapels and unusual lines follow this source of inspiration. The notion of one viral phenomenon always being dropped almost instantly when the next appears is displayed through the fluidity of the draped elements seen throughout the collection, showing how the attention of youth just moves as quickly as they scroll through social media, which in turn brings in the blue in reference to Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter etc. The print was inspired by Fly Art, who marry “the finer things in life: Hip hop and art.” Particularly the Portrait of Pope Pius V (c. 1605), El Greco with the words “I DON’T DO MISSIONARY” written over it from a remix of Beyoncé’s Drunk in Love ft.Jay-Z and Kanye West. I re-adapted this into nonsensical prayers to further push this idea of religion being unimportant to the majority.
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outfits 4-6
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VOYAGE TO CORPSE SHORE
SEA OF SOULS S/S 2015
Sea of Souls is a S/S 2015 womenswear collection at mid-level designer range, pitching against competitor designers such as Christopher Kane. The collection highlights the use of colour and print. The overarching theme explores Viking funerals and the sailing of the boat into the Norse underworld, specifically Helheim, the main print taking particular inspiration from the mythical location known as “Corpse Shore”, this makes the collection a way to engage discussion about death and the afterlife. Hand-painted oceans have been blown up to create beautiful prints detailing the initial voyage of deceased Vikings, with hints of blood throughout. The print develops further with bodies transposed into the initial hand-painted oceans, creating a rather literal interpretation of the “Corpse Shore”; this idea had initially been inspired by a repeat print by Fee Greening called Orgy in which a multitude of naked bodies are intertwined in sexual intercourse. A number of the garments take direct influence from the ships that dead Vikings would be sent to sea in, with straps for the dresses taking forms of masts and ropes to hold them up and with the fabric draping around the body. Smaller details are employed, particularly sewn-in pleats that are sewn directionally in opposing ways as to create the illusions of waves throughout the garments, this is further highlighted with the print running down one side of the pleat to create the illusion of waves washing up on the shore.
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outfits 4-6
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DEATH BY CONSTRICTION
ADIDAS COLLAB S/S 2015
A men’s sportswear collection in collaboration with Adidas for S/S 2015, snakes had became the inspiration for this collection. Instead of looking at venomous snakes, I looked at how the vast majority of snakes constrict and strangle their prey to kill them before feeding, and took it symbolically into the collection but in a way so that it could still be functional and wearable. As a result I came to the conclusion of using compression garments as the main focus in the collection, and as a direct reference to my main source of inspiration. Sharp, fang shapes are the main details that separate this collection from other compression garments in the market, which is a rather literal take on my inspiration but becomes a practical application when making it into a functional collection; this is due to the fang shapes being in opposing fabrics including reflective materials as the collection would be marketed as running gear, making the collection ideal garments that could be used for running at night. Other more casual garments make the collection more accessible to a wider audience, including Adidas’ current markets, including relaxed shorts, t-shirts and zip-up sweatshirt alongside dedicated sportsmen that like variety and individuality in the sports clothing that they wear. The colours in the collection feature bold colours for the more eccentric sportsman, however toned down garments are also available so as to be marketable to a wider audience.
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outfits 4-6
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THOMAS WILLIAM CHALMERS H00107509 PORTFOLIO 1 + 2