GREY DAYS S O U T H WA L ES
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Fisherman on Barry island
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Blaenavon
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As the wind blows and the sun shines we travel over the
this connection, and with the connection comes industry
Severn bridge towards our destination, south Wales. It
and commerce. This is vital to Wales economy and the
has only been a week or so since the decision to head into
local businesses which rely on this link. Goods can now
the ‘unknown’, for us anyway. What will this week long
come and go with ease allowing for a much more fluid
trip bring us? We know for sure a lot of rain and wind
connection to be established.
and some very cold nights. However, the thought of who and what we will meet along our way fill’s us with high
The landscape is crisscrossed with power lines, spanning
spirit and an urge to press on.
hundred of miles. Nearly everywhere you look this is visible as if it is a blanket covering the land below. It
First stop, Caldicot, and the gods are on our side. The
becomes immediately prevalent that fuel and energy is an
sun is in the sky and it is dry under foot. Caldicot has
important dictating factor within the Welsh landscape.
long been the first stop for people venturing into south Wales for hundreds of years, until recently this meant
We travelled to Barry Island once a famous tourist holiday
navigating the treacherous waters of the river Severn.
hotspot now a run down theme park and a small sandy
However today, thankfully for us we can safely drive over
beach full of dog walkers and fisherman. It is here that
the bridge and keep our feet dry.
we spotted a fisherman camped out on the rocky shore line. As we approached he was reluctant to speak however
As we went over the bridge a tall tower jutted up from
gave us the name John Davies, pretty unbeleivable but
what looked like an old industrial area and so we decided
otherwise broke the stale air between us and him. The
to park the car and investigate on foot. We came to learn
rides at Barry Island are closed down for the winter,
that this was once in-fact one of the biggest paper mills
covered and waiting the long winter to be opened for
in business within south Wales. Employing a lot of the
next years occasional tourist. Will Wales see an increase
local community but sadly had closed a decade before
in productivity soon? As we left we asked John if he’d had
as the production of paper had been out sourced to the
a fruitful days fishing, he replied ‘‘not at thing’’.
far east. Over the years this once bustling business had become dormant within its surroundings and the local people had to find employment else where. We took a walk for a couple hours around the local area and it was clear to see the impact of such businesses coming to cease within the local community and surrounding area. However aside all this the bridge that now connects Wales to England has brought some benefits. It creates
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Derelict paper mill, Sudbrook
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Steel mill
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Windfarm, Seven Sisters
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Aberthaw cement works
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It becomes clear as we carry on with our journey through
“Being but men, we walked into the trees Afraid, letting our
the south of Wales that the landscape that is before us is
syllables be soft
not as it seems. The scars of many years of mining, open
For fear of waking the rooks,
cast and underground, has taken its toll, and the lay of
For fear of coming
the land tells many stories. The remaining piles of dirt
Noiselessly into a world of wings and cries.
and stone dug out from deep inside of the hill sides, line many of the horizons and the absence of foliage is noted. The essence of a landscape, which was once pristine and
If we were children we might climb,
held acres and acres of forest can been seen, however it
Catch the rooks sleeping, and break no twig,
is broken like a puzzle by the man made veins scouring
And, after the soft ascent, Thrust out our heads above the branches
the land.
To wonder at the unfailing stars. This change in the landscape falls innocent as the culprit turns up, the natural abundance of minerals and resources needed by humans to engineer the rise in economic
Out of confusion, as the way is,
power. Wales, and its inhabitants, lay near the ever more
And the wonder, that man knows,
power hungry English. They and their lands fell like a
Out of the chaos would come bliss.
pawn in chess, to allow the forward momentum of the British economy to grow. This need of the English for the
That, then, is loveliness, we said,
resources the Welsh possessed brought with it a boom in
Children in wonder watching the stars,
industry. Mining for coal and other minerals flourished
Is the aim and the end.
and created money for Wales through exporting it to England. The large crops of trees which lay at the top of the valleys, again another exportable commodity and this
Being but men, we walked into the trees.� - Being but men
is why today the land is so scared. Dylan Thomas 1914-1953
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Brecon Beacons
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Coal mine, Merthyr Tydfil
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Brecon Beacons
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Sgt Kieren Haywaood if the 1st Fusiliers, and Sgt Chris Brownie of the 4th Rifles, Brecon Beacons
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Tree farm, Brecon Beacons
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Beyond
the mouths of the valleys concrete urban
the chip shop had stood in the community for over 50
jungles become far and few between and the drawn out
years. She serves many customers travelling through
countryside villages become prominent features. These
however remembers all the locals by name and face. We
small communities lay isolated with unknown faces
ate our chips and curry while studying the mural on
rarely seen. It was here that me noticed the strength in
the back wall which held old school photographs from
the community and how this plays a vital role in helping
decades passed. Donna spoke of these images saying how
out each other when in need. Everyone knows each other
it showed how things were and how things have changed.
even in the larger towns and each person seems to play
One of the first people we met in Wales was at the Severn
a key role in the local societies. This is very different
bridge. Pete was a businessman from the Midlands, he
from where we’re from. Where we are from isn’t like this,
was sat admiring the view over the Severn on his first
only the very small towns seem to have this connection
trip to Wales. He was looking for business oppertunities
between their inhabitants and if your from a larger town
to construct schools. This could be a sign of further
or city then there is no hope in hell of remembering the
investment and helping to build a stronger infrastructure
next person from the next you meet in the local pub.
within Wales.
To us this was interesting as it brings the whole area closer together which in turn helps with the local spirit
15 years ago the community was hit hard by the closure of
of things. Everyone seemed to go out of their way for
the local mine. However it was not all lost as a new quarry
us when we stopped to ask questions on the area and
opened near by. Many communities are built around the
each person gave us numerous names within the local
former mining industries. Ray, and old Englishman, lives
community that could help with this ever unravelling
upon a road which has been there since the Roman times.
story of south Wales. It was clear to see that in these
The row of houses he lives in have been there since the
smaller towns in the valleys the recession hadn’t hit as
turn of the 20th century, making them some of the oldest
hard as it had back home. After asking the locals why this
miners houses in the area. Most the people who live
was it became clear that they were adamant that by living
there today are either descendants or relatives of mining
towards the lower income line this made the community
families. Ray originally lived in London, looking after his
stronger. Everyone got their produce locally not normally
mother until her death. He was a roadie, and travelled
from big chain supermarkets keeping the money where
with Genesis, Status Quo, Eric Clapton, Beach Boys and
it was most needed. In turn the local shops kept above
Titanic. He move to this part of Wales after travelling
board and saw out the worst of the recession.
around for 9 months and has lived here for 27 years
Passing through Merthyr Tydfil we pulled in to get some
originally buying his house for a mere £10,000. When
food. We stumbled across a fish and chip shop and the
asked why he decided to live here he said -
women who owned it got talking with us. Her name was Donna and she stood with a quiet presence, which
“The people, the people are really nice...
contrasted her warming personality, she explained how
....until you cross them.”
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En route to Severn Sisters
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Bridgend
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Donna, Sammy’s fish bar, Merthyr Tydfil
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Trinity Presbyterian church. In loving memory of Muriel Hillier
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Restaurant
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Banwen
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Ray, Banwen
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The old country of my fathers is dear unto me, Country of poets and singers, celebrities indeed,: Its warring defenders, so gallant and brave, For freedom their life’s blood they gave.
County!, Country!, Pledge-full I am to my country! While seas secure, this land so pure, o may our old language endure. O land of the mountains, the bard’s paradise, Whose precipice, valleys lone as the skies, Green murmuring forest, far echoing flood Fire the fancy and quicken the blood.
For tho’ the fierce foeman has ravaged your realm, The old speech of Wales he cannot o’erwhelm, Our passionate poets to silence command Or banish the harp from your strand.
Welsh National Anthem By Evan James, and son, James James. 1856
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Banwen
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River Ogmore
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Pete, Sudbrook
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Pontsticill resevoir
Photographs, text and layout Š Oliver Tooke and Thomas King Retina Photos 2014. Grey Days Volume 1 All images taken in Wales between October 2013 and February 2014. Printed in the UK. Edition of 500.
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Merthyr Tydfil
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