MAN Approved: Du-Bro Kwik-Sand Hand Sanders

DU-BRO KWIK-SAND HAND SANDERS

By Andrew Griffith

APPROVED

Our friends at DuBro keep bringing out useful products that I love having in the shop. Having the right tool makes the project at hand go so much easier! I recently received their new Kwik-Sand hand sanders in both 5.5- and 11-inch lengths. Each comes with a starter kit of adhesive backed sandpaper pieces in 80, 150, and 220-grit. The sandpaper is cut to the shape of the sander and uses peel-and-stick adhesive to attach to the bar. You can order sandpaper refills from Du-Bro, or if you need a different grit paper than they have available you can use 3M 77 Contact cement and apply your own custom-cut sandpaper.

Sanding blocks are nothing new of course. When I was a wee modeler, I remember showing up to the field with my first glider, a kit-built Craft Air Drifter II. Despite hours of hand sanding while I tried to maintain the right pressure and alignment, the leading edges of the wings looked like a poorly performed field sobriety test. Henry Haffke approached me and said, “Hey kid, let me show you a trick. ” His trick of course was a variety of sanding blocks and T-bar sanders that he had in his shop to work on his famous Gee Bee Racers.

My next build, a Goldberg Gentle Lady, was stunningly different and that was the beginning of knowing that having the right tool for the job was paramount. Bar sanders allow you to produce nice straight edges, which are both aesthetically pleasing and—more importantly—are critical to strength when gluing the finished pieces together.

What makes the Du-Bro Kwik-Sand better than a typical T-bar sander? Instead of trying to pinch the handle on a T-bar, the Kwik-Sand bar is a new ergonomic design that fits comfortably in your hand. That may not sound revolutionary, but when you’re doing a lot of sanding the ease and comfort makes a difference in fatigue.

If you do any building or repairs that require a lot of sanding, the Kwik-Sanders should be in your collection —ByAndrewGriffith

The Du-Bro KwikSand hand sanding bars are a great addition to any workshop!

dubro.com

TEXT & PHOTOS BY GERRY YARRISH

DAWN PATROL RENDEZVOUS WW I FLY-IN

A biannual celebration of early aviation

SPONSORS

Balsa USA | Bob Smith Industries Bolt Depot | Ernst Manufacturing Evergreen Scale Models | Ready Made RC RTL Fasteners | Saito Mfg. Mike Bealmear Lucky Dog Ghosts Calendars Brian Baumer Etched Drinking Cups

The majority of the airplanes at the event were kit built like this 1/3-scale Albatros from the Balsa USA kit.

Held on October 7 and 8, the biannual Dawn Patrol Rendezvous WW I Fly-In took place at the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force. Adjacent to Wright Patterson AFB in Dayton, Ohio, this amazing aerial event features RC giant-scale WW I aircraft as well as full-size homebuilt replicas of famous WW I fighter aircraft. As always, there’s a lot to see, including reenactor encampments, antique cars, aviation workshops, and guest speakers to educate everyone about the Great War. Taking place throughout the museum complex, the Rendezvous highlights the events of WW I and America’s early aircraft development as well as interesting hands-on educational activities and food trucks.

Specially for the Rendezvous event, the Museum creates a grass runway and uses a roller for several days prior to the event so the sod runway and flightline are in great condition. The RC models are in support of the full-scale activities, with one or the other group attempting to keep planes in the air all the time. This year’s high winds and bitter cold did make this very difficult.

Full-Size Demoiselle

The largest entry was a 100% full-scale RC version of the 1909 Demoiselle. Built by Gary Denzler, the 95-pound Demoiselle has a 17-foot wingspan and is powered by a Desert Aircraft DA170 twin-cylinder gas engine. Flown by Paul Westrich, the Demoiselle only has three channels (throttle, rudder and elevator) and is covered with Sig Coverall. It carries a full-size model of Brazilian pilot/designer Alberto Dumont with an animated head, so he can scan the skies as he flies. Built using conventional RC materials, the model has tail booms made of 3/4-inch hardwood dowels made to look like the lengths of bamboo (using thick cord and filler putty) used on the actual aircraft’ s construction.

Sal makes flying his huge 16-foot bomber look easy.

Sal Calvagna and his amazing Sikorsky Ilya Muromets ready for some flights. One of four resin-cast V-8 engines on Sal’s Russian bomber. Each engine conceals an electric motor.

Half-Scale Fokker Dr.1 Triplane

Built from enlarged Glenn Torrance 1/3-scale planes, this amazing half-scale Triplane is the handiwork of by Bill Holland of Prague, Oklahoma. With a wingspan of 142.2 inches, the triplane is 108.7 inches long and weighs 120 pounds. The Fokker is powered by a 3W 275cc engine turning a 37 x 13 Radio prop. The covering is Poly Fiber and Ceconite 102, painted with PolyTone paint. All the hinges are scale and homemade for elevator, rudder, and ailerons. The control surfaces use scale pull-pull cable setups, and the 16-inch-spoked wheels come from Tractor Supply. Bill’ s Triplane won the Best Central Powers award.

Bill Holland poses with his half-scale Fokker Dr.1 Triplane.

RC FLIGHTLINE Seventy-five registered pilots came from 16 different states and brought about 100 models. About half were 1/3 scale, and 60% of the models were built from kits, most being Balsa USA. About a quarter of the models were scratchbuilt. RC contest director Douglas Cox and RC event director Lee McDuffee made sure that the event ran smoothly. Because the Rendezvous takes place at a government installation, they also had to coordinate with the FAA, who was on hand checking everyone’s paperwork. Additional RC help came from AMA AVP Randy Adams, who helped interpret and respond to FAA requirements, Mike and Donna Smith, (who solicited the many door prizes), and Helen McDuffee, Kathy Cox, and Robin Adams. Also deserving a mention are Lauryn Bayliff, Special Events Manager, NMUSAF/ MUS and the 2022 event Air Boss John J. Vance, Director, Special Operations, 88 Operations Support Squadron, WrightPatterson AFB.

With a landing fee of only $20, RC pilots were well-received. For their registration fee, each pilot received an event t-shirt, a box lunch for Friday and Saturday served on the flightline, and an after-hours Welcome Banquet held in the WW I/Early Aviation section of the USAF Museum. When it comes to scale aircraft, this year was certainly the year for half-scale aircraft. There were several truly huge models and in fact it’s hard to refer to these gigantic RC aircraft as models; in every sense of the word, they were indeed homebuilt aircraft, albeit not man-carrying.

These days, WW I events really draw a big crowd and the Rendezvous is no exception. Highlighting just some of the more unusual aircraft, Peter Hanley brought his impressive scratch-built Martin-Handysyde #3 monoplane. With a 10-foot wingspan, the 1/4-scale model weighed 22 pounds and was powered by an inline 4-cylinder O.S. DiaStar IL300 glow engine.

Equally unusual was well known RC personality Greg Hahn’s Caproni CA.3. Powered by three DLE 35cc gas engines (two tractor and one pusher), Greg’s scratch-built 1/4-scale Caproni has a 240-inch wingspan and weighs 54 pounds. Covered with Solartex fabric, it has 180 ribs in the wings and some 275 feet of rigging cables holding the structures together. Greg says it took one year to draw the plans and another year to build his Italian bomber.

Other well-known modelers in attendance were Roy Vaillancourt with his 1/3-scale SE5 and Sopwith Dolphin, Gene Gavin and his 1/3-scale Phönix D.I, and Sal Calvagna with his electric powered 1/6-scale Sikorsky Ilya Muromets Russian bomber. Powered by four AXI 130 electric motors, Sal’s bomber had a 192-inch wingspan and weighed 45 pounds, and it won the Best of Show award. Perhaps the most colorful aircraft on the flightline was Tim Schurick' s 46% Fokker D.VII powered by a DA 170cc twin.

Half-Scale Sopwith Camel

Jim Ellis of Guthrie, Oklahoma, won the Best Entente Powers award with his impressive 50%-scale Sopwith Camel painted in the famous Lt. Roy Brown scheme. With a 14-foot wingspan, the British fighter is 8 feet long and weighs 118 pounds. Powered by a 5-cylinder Valach 430cc rotary 4-stroke turning a 40 x 20 propeller, the Camel is finished with Behr household paint over Solartex fabric covering. The wings are reinforced with carbon-fiber tube leading edges, and the landing gear is made from 4130 chromoly steel covered with pine fairings, and the 17-inch spoked wheels are from Tractor Supply. Featuring a full detailed interior, the plane also has machine guns built from Balsa USA kits. Jim took two years to build the Camel. Everything except the 21-inch engine cowling is hand built, including the hand-stitched leather cockpit coaming.

Jim Ellis shows off his impressive 50%-scale Sopwith Camel. A full-scale instrument panel and cockpit interior complete the Camel.

National Museum of the U.S. Air Force

Located at Wright Patterson Air Force Base near Dayton, Ohio, the National Museum is the oldest and largest military aviation museum in the world! Established in 1923, the museum houses more than 360 aircraft and missiles and draws more than 1 million visitors each year. Consisting of four connected round-topped buildings, the current internal area housing the museum ’ s collection of aircraft, artifacts and memorabilia is 1,120,000 square feet. From early aviation and pioneer aircraft to the most current bombers, strike drones and Presidential aircraft, there is literally something for anyone interested in any genre of man-carrying aircraft.

The flightline was a mix of several different aircraft and various scale sizes.

Here a half-scale Nieuport 11 built by Art Shelton returns to the pit area. FULL-SIZE AVIATION What makes the event even more exciting is that both RC and full-size, homebuilt, man-carrying aircraft share the skies over the USAF Museum. Throughout the day, the runway is flagged for specific flight operations to avoid conflicts between models and homebuilts. A Fokker Dr.1 Triplane powered by a Lycoming 320 160hp radial engine and a Fokker D.VII powered by an inline, six-cylinder Gypsy Queen 30 engine entertained the crowd. Another favorite was a full-scale Nieuport 28 powered by Lycoming 320.

Bringing the historical atmosphere down to ground level were acres of WW I reenactors complete with encampments, tents, and period vehicles. Considering the cool October temps, the period correct wool uniforms were certainly appropriate. Everywhere you looked, Tommys, Huns and even U.S. troops were well-represented. The event was a great opportunity to learn some history.

If you’re a WW I enthusiast, the Dawn Patrol Rendezvous should be on your bucket list for sure. A biannual event, the next Rendezvous will take place in October 2024. For more information, go to nationalmuseum Upcoming/Events. .af .mil/

TEXT & ILLUSTRATIONS BY DAVID SCOTT

STRAIGHT LINES & TURNS

Take your flying skills to the next level with these tips

Every pilot knows that flying an RC plane in a straight line and making a textbook, picture-perfect procedure turn is easier said than done! In this article, David Scott, the founder and flight instructor for 1st U.S. R/C Flight School as well as a full-size aerobatic pilot, shares his invaluable insights.

When most people learn to drive a car, they work hard to keep the car going straight. This is mostly due to holding in the steering wheel corrections too long and trying to “steer” the car straight. Yet, after a while we’re able to keep the car straight with very little effort. The reason is that we develop an appreciation for the fact that most deviations can be corrected with a simple little nudge upon the wheel, and we’re confident that if one nudge doesn’t do the trick, we can always apply another. Thus, applying small nudges to the steering wheel produces straighter lines and reduces the number of corrections we have to make. Small, brief bumps of aileron or rudder (not held in) have precisely the same effect to help us fly straighter lines, as well as make small course changes without over-controlling.

BUMP APPLICATIONS Proficient pilots use small bumps of aileron to keep the wings level to maintain straight lines. Bumps are also used to bank the wings slightly and cause an airplane to drift slightly to the left or to the right (Figure 1). As long as the bumps are not too large or held in, the airplane won’t lose altitude after a bump so there is no need for elevator when making small course changes. If the airplane features a symmetrical airfoil wing, the course change after an aileron bump will tend to be much more gradual. To affect a more deliberate course change with a symmetrical wing plane, the pilot must also pull a little upelevator and, in effect, perform a mini

BUMP

NEUTRALIZE FLAT-BOTTOM WING FIGURE 1

BUMP

NEUTRALIZE

Straight lines are maintained using small (brief) aileron bumps to keep the wings level. Small course changes are made using a small bump of aileron (in-andout) to bank the wings slightly.

FIGURE 2

SYMMETRICAL WING

BUMP

Small course changes with symmetrical wing airplanes entail briefly bumping the aileron (in/out) to bank the wings slightly and holding in a small amount of up-elevator to affect a gentle turn.

procedure turn (Figure 2).

Because the bump is small, it must be applied and returned to neutral smoothly to give the plane time to respond. Quickly jabbing the aileron will likely produce little or no response. Keep in mind that the slight wing bank and gradual course change after a smooth, small bump may not be immediately obvious. Thus, you must pause for a few moments after each bump to be certain whether another bump is needed. Remember, over-controlling is usually not caused by aggressive inputs at first, but is the result of holding an input in too long and occurs most often when pilots hold in their inputs waiting to see an obvious reaction of the plane. Therefore, it’s better to make two separate bumps, if necessary, rather than hold in the aileron! Bumping the rudder on airplanes without ailerons works just as well, but rudder bumps must be applied very smoothly to have the desired effect. The bump technique works great for gradual course adjustments up to 20 to 30 degrees. A larger course change will require a deliberate turn involving aileron and elevator.

As pilots (like drivers) become more relaxed, they start noticing deviations off the intended path the instant they occur, thus the corresponding bumps become so small that anyone watching won’t even be able to tell that corrections are being made. That’s one of the main reasons why really good pilots make flying look so easy.

FLYING BETTER STRAIGHT LINES AND A PARALLEL FOUNDATION If you have ever watched proficient pilots fly (you can tell by their ability to perform one maneuver after another), you may have noticed the absence of visible corrections between their maneuvers—often referred to as being smooth. The primary reason for their smooth flying is that they possess a solid foundation of flying consistent parallel lines with the runway.

Establishing a parallel foundation starts with picturing the comfortable viewing distance where you want the airplane to be when it passes in front of you, otherwise known as “show center. ” Then, project that distance out to your left and right parallel with the runway and pick some ground reference “targets” on the horizon to use as parallel turnaround points (Figure 3). Guiding your airplane toward these points will greatly add to your consistency in the air.

CROSSWIND POSITIONING BASICS AND OBJECTS AS A WHOLE As a rule, an airplane will fly in a straight line whenever the wings are level. If a crosswind exists, the plane will crab (point) into the wind a bit, but as long as the wings remain level, it will continue to track straight. From the ground, the position of the wings can often be difficult to judge, so rather than relying on the positions of the wing or fuselage, proficient pilots concentrate on where the airplane as a whole is traveling (Figure 4).

It is easy to see deviations when guiding the airplane as a whole toward a distinct target on the horizon. It’s a bit trickier on the return path to show center. To detect deviations from parallel after turning around, keep your eye on where the airplane as a whole is

FIGURE 3 SHOW CENTER

Turnaround point SHOW CENTER

Turnaround point

FIGURE 4

An airplane will fly in a straight line when the wings are level. Flying in a crosswind causes the fuselage to crab into the wind, yet as long as the wings remain level the plane as a whole will continue to fly in a straight line. Pilots, therefore, need to pay attention to where the airplane as a whole is traveling, not where it is pointing.

When the airplane as a whole is neither veering in nor away from you approaching show center, the airplane will be flying generally parallel with the runway.

traveling relative to yourself. That is, ask yourself, “Is it drifting away from me?” (bump it in). “Is it drifting toward me?” (bump it out). When neither a deviation in nor away from you is detected, the airplane will be tracking generally parallel with the runway (Figure 5).

While wind is often blamed for deviations, it’s actually the wind’s principle effect that helps to exaggerate deviations and mistakes that pilots can otherwise get away with in calmer conditions. For example, when a crosswind exists, amateur pilots often make the mistake of completing their turns when the plane points where they want it to go, and then input a crab into the wind after they detect wind drift. The correct method is to finish your turns a little early or late so that the required crab angle into the wind is already in place (Figure 6). How early or how late depends on the strength of the crosswind.

A note to beginners regarding left/right confusion when the plane is approaching show center: consider the fact that a person driving a car doesn’t have to think about whether to apply a left or right input. Because they’re facing in

FIGURE 5

SHOW CENTER

the direction that the car is traveling, all they have to do is move the steering wheel in the direction that they want the car to go. With this in mind, rotate your body to face in the direction the airplane is traveling and think in terms of bumping the control stick in the direction you want the plane to go. This reduces left/right confusion when learning to fly (Figure 7). Body rotation will naturally start disappearing within a few days as you shift from thinking about your own orientation to thinking more about guiding the airplane as if you were in it.

NOW FOR THE TURN When you have mastered flying straight and level, you will need to apply what you learned with bumps to make a smooth procedure turn. Novice pilots typically attempt to turn by reacting to the airplane. By definition, reactors need to see a mistake before it occurs to them that they have made one. For example, reactors tend to start their turns by holding in some aileron and watching the wings bank. As the bank gets steeper and the airplane starts to

SHOW CENTER

FIGURE 6

FIGURE 7

When turning into a crosswind, exit the turn a little early to establish the necessary crab angle and prevent getting blown.

SHOW CENTER

Actual flight path when the fuselage is mistakenly pointed toward show center in a crosswind.

When turning with a crosswind, overshoot the turn a little to establish the necessary crab angle and prevent getting blown.

To reduce left/right confusion, face in the general direction that the airplane is traveling so that your left and right match that of the plane.

Fixating on watching the wings at the start of a turn may cause a pilot to hold in the aileron, resulting in a descending spiral and eventually rolling upside-down.

Ailerons bank the wings. Pulling up-elevator begins the turn and keeps the turn level. You will not experience tight spiraling turns as long as you do not hold in the ailerons! A larger aileron input produces a steeper bank, a tighter turn, and requires more up-elevator to keep the turn level.

“Right turn, left correction”

BODY ROTATION

FIGURE 8

FIGURE 9 FIGURE 10

drop, the pilot becomes focused on increasing the elevator and trying to pull out of the dive, all while continuing to hold in the aileron. The result is an increasingly steep bank, a progressively tighter spiral, and confusion about why the plane is going down when they are pulling up (Figure 8). Unless you intend to do aerobatics, never hold in the ailerons, especially during a turn!

PROCEDURE TURNS (AILERON TURN) The term “procedure turn” is taken from fullscale flying and refers to a course reversal turn executed to such precise standards that the results are the same whether performed day or night, in clouds or out. That’s precisely our intention of executing intentional turn inputs that produce consistent turn results whether high or low, near or far.

The turn procedure utilized by proficient pilots starts with a smooth, yet brief, aileron input to bank the wings. The aileron input is neutralized to avoid entering a downward spiral, and then up-elevator is applied to pull the nose into a turn and keep the turn level. Once the bank has been established, elevator, not aileron, turns the plane (Figure 9).

The size of the aileron input determines the degree of bank and therefore the size of the turn, as well as how much elevator will be needed to keep the turn level. For example, a smaller aileron input produces a shallower bank and therefore a wider turn, whereas a larger aileron input produces a steeper bank and a tighter turn. The objective is to find the aileron input that consistently produces the degree of bank that you are comfortable with, and then determine the correct amount of elevator to pull each time to keep the turn level. Note that during a mild bank, most of the wing’s lift is still opposing the pull of gravity, and thus very little up-elevator is needed to keep the turn level. During a steeper bank, there’s less upward component of lift to oppose gravity. As a result, more up-elevator is required to keep the turn level (Figure 10).

20 45

BANK

NEUTRALIZE

PULL

CONSISTENT TURNS The neutral stick position provides a distinct point from which to gauge the size of each of your control inputs, therefore making correct amounts easier to repeat, and incorrect amounts easier to modify correctly. For example, if your initial turn is too tight, reducing the size of your aileron input from neutral next time will result in a shallower bank and wider turn. Or, if you initially pull too much elevator and affect a climbing turn, next time repeat the same aileron input but pull less elevator from neutral and the turn will be more level (Figure 11).

Performing a procedure turn can be summed up by the motto, “Trust, and then adjust. ” That is, proactively initiate your turns trusting your inputs then adjust (finetune) the amount of elevator you’re holding depending on what you see to keep the turn level (Figure 12). If you see the plane start to lose altitude during the turn, pull more elevator. If the plane starts to climb, lessen the amount of elevator that you’re holding in throughout the remainder of the turn. Keep in mind that, as a rule, it is easier to add more input than it is to recover after over-controlling. Therefore, the best procedure is to target a small amount of elevator at the start of a turn, and then finetune the elevator, if necessary, to maintain a perfectly level turn.

RESTARTING AND TIGHTENING TURNS In the event that a turn needs to be tightened or restarted, the correct procedure is to smoothly apply a small bump of aileron (in/out) in the direction of the turn while continuing to hold in the elevator to steepen the bank angle (Figure 13). For reasons stated earlier, the aileron bump needs to be briefly applied in and out, not held in!

PROCEDURE TURN CORRECTION At the point that you want to exit the turn, neutralize the elevator and smoothly apply opposite aileron to level the wings (Figure 14). Note that the key to applying the aileron in the proper direction is reminding yourself which way you’re turning and anticipating opposite aileron before it’s time to correct. The temptation to look at the wings to determine which way to apply the aileron produces hesitation and confusion whenever the position of the wings is not clear. Ultimately, applying the aileron correctly will hinge on how well you start FIGURE 11

If you pull too much elevator at the start of your first turn resulting in a climbing turn, repeat the same aileron input and bank next time but pull less up-elevator from neutral to affect a more level turn.

A B

FIGURE 12

Focus on your inputs when initiating the turn then adjust the amount of elevator you’re holding in to keep the turn level throughout.

Less elevator

PULL

Less

More

More elevator

FIGURE 13

Smoothly bump the aileron while continuing to hold in the elevator to tighten or restart a turn.

BUMP

IN-OUT

FIGURE 14

Ailerons bank the wings. Pulling up-elevator turns the airplane. To exit the turn, neutralize the elevator and apply opposite aileron to level the wings.

“Right turn, be ready with left. ”

FIGURE 15 FIGURE 16

GLIDER RUDDER TURN INPUTS

YAW

Smoothly apply rudder to bank the wings, and then neutralize the rudder to avoid over-banking and entering a downward spiral. Pull and maintain up-elevator to keep the turn level throughout.

and maintain level turns, because the less demanding the turn is in general, the easier it will be to remember which way to apply the aileron to level the wings. In fact, when a turn is kept level, a person can actually get away with correcting the wrong direction, catch the mistake, and level the wings correctly with minimal altitude loss. It can spell the end of an airplane if the pilot corrects the wrong way during a diving turn.

RUDDER TURNS A rudder turn is performed using the rudder to yaw the nose of the airplane in the direction you want to turn. When the rudder is deflected, the wing on the outside of the turn also travels faster, causing it to generate more lift and therefore bank in the direction that the rudder is applied (Figure 15).

There are basically two different techniques required to turn an airplane without ailerons using the rudder. Planes that exhibit a lot of upright stability, such as a high wing powered plane or glider, typically resist banking and therefore require you to continue holding in rudder to keep turning. These aircraft typically require a larger rudder input to get the turn started, but once started the rudder has to be reduced to keep the turn from becoming too tight. Note that the inherent skid and subsequent speed loss when applying rudder will most likely require you to combine some up-elevator with the rudder at the start of the turn to keep it from dropping (Figure 16).

Other rudder planes require a technique similar to an aileron turn, where the rudder is applied only long enough to bank the wings, and then it is neutralized to avoid over-banking and entering a downward spiral. The degree of bank and the size of the turn are dictated by the size of the rudder control input. Keep in mind that rudder banks are less precise than aileron banks and will tend to lag behind your inputs if applied too quickly. Thus, in order to achieve results that more closely match your intentions, you must apply all your rudder inputs very smoothly to give the plane a chance to keep up with your inputs.

When you start the turn, you’ll need to adjust the elevator to keep the turn level then level the wings with opposite rudder to exit the turn. Returning the wings to level usually takes longer with rudder than it does with aileron, so you’ll have to start leveling the wings prior to the point that you want the turn to stop, and then continue holding in the rudder until the wings are level (Figure 17). Prolonged rudder defections tend to scrub off airspeed, so you will most likely need to hold in a little up-elevator while leveling the wings to keep the plane from dropping.

BOTTOM LINE Consider that when flying straight or when your turn inputs are made correctly, the need for additional corrections may not exist. Then you will be free to think a a head pro. of the airplane just like

Here is the typical stick movement for a rudder turn on a plane that exhibits a lot of upright stability.

FIGURE 17

Prolonged rudder deflections tend to scrub off airspeed during the subsequent yaw/skid. Therefore, you will likely have to hold in some up-elevator while leveling the wings to keep the plane from dropping.

TIME RIGHT TURN

Hold left rudder

BY RICH URAVITCH PHOTOS BY DAVID HART (CAPTUREDFROMTHEHART.COM)

MISSION WARBIRD

Secrets to flying giant-scale military aircraft

For many scale modelers, warbirds have the edge in popularity. It’ s hard not to get pumped by Mustangs, Thunderbolts, Spitfires, Hellcats, and Me-109s. Although we generally don ’t put them into the category, Panthers, F-86s, F-100s, and F-15s fit here also. Models of this type are generally larger, weigh more, and have higher wing loadings than other types, and require an awareness of what these factors mean when flying. It is here where “ giant-sizing ” our scale warbirds can provide benefits; bigger really does fly better!

WHAT TO EXPECT Higher wing loadings are not all bad; they reduce the tendency of the model to be easily disturbed by wind gusts and makes landing approaches more predictable and precise. Once the rate of descent is established, it is easily controlled by the application of power. At the departure end of the runway, however, is where the higher wing loading can bite you. Haul your new scale beauty off the runway too soon, before the wing starts working, and you’ll likely be rewarded by a stall/snap back down onto that runway. Quick fingers and corrective action may save the day, but don’t count on it. How about when you’re rocketing along, straight and level, and start a hard left bank? It looks great so you go a little faster and tighter and bang! You don’t see the onset, but the model shudders, drops the right wing and enters a violent spin. Altitude is the only savior here, and you might not have enough.

At the other end of the spectrum are the lightly-loaded scale WW I warbirds like Fokkers, Spads, SE-5s, and Albatrosses. Lighter wing loading may make them a bit easier to fly, but they do require attention and technique to be flown correctly. Making that 180-degree turn with aileron alone won’t cut it. You may need to add rudder either by radio channel mixing or rudder input. This is where coordinated rudder/aileron control input is usually necessary. Getting used to coordinating the roll and yaw axes will also allow you to execute some of those really neat, cross-control, slipped landings that always look great. It’s a great landing

"Heavy-metal" warbirds like these 102-inch-span Meister Scale P-47s built and flown by Herb Johnson (silver) and John Welcome (green) have high wing loadings that require expert piloting skills.

approach maneuver that bleeds off lots of altitude quickly and, once you perfect the technique, you’ll really enjoy doing. This technique is far less effective, or required, as the wing loading goes up.

IDEAL FIRST BIG WARBIRD To minimize frustration during your transition from standard-size RC models, choose your first big warbird subject wisely. Sometimes desire overshadows wisdom and we pick subjects that we think we can grow into as our entry point. It will still take a number of intermediate steps until you’re ready for that 120-inch B-25 you’ve always wanted. Ignore the temptation to jump directly into complex multi-engine or turbine-powered subjects.

Is there an ideal first scale model? There probably is not because the model choice is usually based on your fascination with, or love of, the real airplane. If you would like to duplicate a specific type in model form, you’ll need to accept the fact that it may not be the best choice from a flying standpoint, and that you’re willing to do what is necessary to master the flying end or resign yourself to having a very large coffee table decoration. If your desire is to fly a scale model and that desire is not driven by a specific love affair with a full-scale warbird, the selection task becomes quite a bit easier.

With the number of big military ARFs now available, with more on the way, the most complicated portion of the selection process might picking the size you want. Take the Mustang for example; it’s available in almost every

Matt Balazs starts up his 1/3.7-scale Fw 190.

size imaginable in various forms. Other subjects are available, many also in a variety of sizes. Some seem to be better than others but all can be made flyable in a fraction of the time it takes to build a model from even a quality kit.

In my view, the ideal first giant-scale warbird subject would be something along the lines of a T-34 Mentor, T-28 Trojan, or similarly configured airplane. Here’s why: they have good proportions, are of low wing configuration, have wide stance, tricycle landing gear, generous wing areas, and adequate dihedral. In larger scales, they will also have enough mass and high enough wing loading to fly comfortably in breezy conditions and have comfortable landing and ground handling qualities. WW I subjects like the SE-5, Fokker, Albatros, Nieuport and similar subjects can be very tricky in the wind and their narrow-track gear along with the tailskid at the rear can make ground handling an adventure, especially on paved runways.

FLYING TECHNIQUE DEVELOPMENT Flying a giant-scale warbird is significantly different than general sport flying or even other categories of scale models. While some of your sport model flying habits and maneuvers will be valuable in your transition to scale flying, flying the big iron involves its own set of disciplines and, like other pursuits, requires practice to maintain any level of proficiency. I’ve found that one of the best ways to learn how a scale RC model should be flown is, follow me on this one, by watching full-size airplanes! I know that sounds like I’m stating the obvious, but you’d be amazed at just how “unscale-like” some scale models are flown. With all kinds of video references, History/ Discovery/Military channel TV shows, and full-scale air shows available, why not take the time to get a visual flavor of what your model should look like flying? You’ll soon discover that most warbirds don’t leap off the runway and climb at a 45-degree angle. Studying some of these sources will go a long

If you want to build and fly a giant-scale WW I model, you 'll find valuable advice and know-how at a "Dawn Patrol" event.

way toward giving you a mental picture of flying your model in a scale fashion. You’ll discover things like a T-6 doesn’t perform a loop like an Extra 300. It slows down at the top where it is just about out of energy before it completes the back side of the maneuver. You also may notice that, although your model P-51 may be Lomcevak-capable, the maneuver is not very becoming, nor do real Jugs routinely perform tail slides. With all the effort you took in making your model look exactly like a miniature re-creation, why not continue the illusion by flying it like the real one?

FLAPS ARE FUN! If this is your first WW II warbird, you will probably want to equip it with flaps. They look really cool on landing and they do make a big difference in approach technique. They shorten and slow the approach, allowing you to carry more power and actually fly the model on to the runway rather than allowing it to float on past you as the headwind disappears. The drag they introduce makes the model slow down dramatically and usually the nose will pitch up slightly. Radio mixing will allow you to couple the flap and elevator channels so you can get the required amount of down-elevator as the flaps extend. This mixing eliminates the need to hold down-elevator and operate the flap switch at the same time, which smooths things out and eliminates abrupt pitch up tendencies. I rarely use flaps on takeoff, and if I do it’s because the judges may want to see them. I use 10 to 15 degrees maximum, just enough to be visible yet not quite enough to cause any major changes in flying qualities. At these settings the flaps allow the wing to create a bit more lift and aren’t acting as drag devices at all. For landing, choose 45 to 60 degrees to get the drag you need. These values will vary depending on the model and flying technique; they should all be tried at altitude until you get the desired results.

Flying an approach at 200 feet will give you time and altitude to recover from incorrect settings. Start reducing power on the downwind leg, abeam of your position, extend the gear, turn base and start the flaps coming down. The flaps should be fully extended when you turn final, and your intended touchdown point on the runway should already be picked out. Control the sink rate with power, flare and touchdown gently with the most perfect twowheel landing you’ve ever done! Stay on the sticks because your warbird is still rolling out. Once the tail permanently settles, retract the flaps, hold some upelevator to keep the tail down and taxi back to the pits. Wasn’t that easy?

TUCKING THE WHEELS AWAY On that perfect landing you just made, you extended the landing gear and it

A T-34 Mentor, like this one flown by Will Berninger, makes an excellent first giant-scale warbird.

worked perfectly. Retractable gear systems are almost standard fare on warbirds, especially giant ones. Imagine that 51 we talked about cruising around the pattern with some spindly wire struts sticking out of the wing. Yuck! Retract systems have become so sophisticated these days that out of the box you’ve got a scale-looking set that works reliably and installs easily. Some ARF manufacturers/ suppliers have even started to include them with the airframes. The choices in retract operation fall into pneumatic and mechanical (including electrical) categories with advantages and disadvantages on both sides of the ledger. Scale speed of extension/ retraction can be easily handled by way of control valves, some of which also incorporate porting to control the sequence of the landing gear door cycling. Selection is really a matter of preference, which is usually based on past experience. If this is going to be your first retract-equipped warbird, ask around to see what other scale guys are using in your area.

WHERE TO FLY YOUR WARBIRD Here’s the thing about giant-scale models: they’re not electric park fliers! You’ll need to make sure that your club flying site will accommodate the size of the model and the airspace it will consume. Make sure your chosen flying site will accommodate large, high-performance models. If not, look for a site that will safely handle your activities. If there’s already a scale contingent in your club, you’re in! If you’re a loner, try to hook up with someone with giant-scale experience, don’t try it solo. It can be dangerous, especially if it’s all new to you and you haven’t yet recognized the potential hazards of giant-scale modeling. Large props swung by powerful engines can inflict some serious injuries.

WHERE THE BOYS ARE A lot can be learned by observation and discussion at some of the more wellpublicized scale events like Top Gun and the Scale Masters. Local-level scale fly-ins are also becoming more popular since the pressure of competition is non-existent. Chances are you’ll run across someone who has the same warbird you’re now building and he’ll be eager to share his findings and offer helpful hints and ideas. You’ll also have the opportunity to see just which fellow scale guys really spent some time observing how real warbirds look when flying. Their models will be the ones that not only look real but are convincing in the air as well.

Getting your type rating on a giantscale warbird is an exciting challenge, one which, when achieved, surely entitles you to bragging rights at the field. Just show up with a big warbird and check the reaction. Fly that baby skillfully, and you’ll have the most impressive model at the field. It takes a fair amount of skill and lots of practice to accomplish the objective, but you set the bar, so enjoy it! There’s a brotherhood of modelers that seem to have been born one generation too late to satisfy their aviation needs, but scale RC flying of WW II just fill the gap. heavy metal might

Tim Sibley built his 1/3-scale Dr. 1 triplane from a Balsa USA kit.

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BY ADAM STRONG PHOTOS BY ANDREW GRIFFITH

FMS

RAFALE 64MM

Small size, high-performance electric-ducted-fan jet

AT A GLANCE

Model: Rafale 64mm Manufacturer: FMS Model (fmsmodel.com) Wingspan: 42 in. Pilot skill level: Intermediate Time to assemble: 10 minutes Power req’d: 4S 2200-2600mAh LiPo Radio req’d: 6-channel Price: $199.99

Packed with scale details uncommon in a jet this size and with a high-performance, 4S 11-blade electric-ducted-fan power system installed, this 64mm Rafale is a terrific option for intermediate pilots.

It comes molded out of EPO with panel lines and with the NATO Tiger Meet scheme decals applied. As a plug-and-play model, all servos, linkages, and power system are installed along with the addition of an FMS Reflex V2 gyro, which is preloaded with the model’s settings. All the required hardware for assembly is included, so you simply use the foamsafe glue of your choice to install the vertical stab and canards. The fixed landing gear includes scale struts with an installed steering linkage and servo, making setup a breeze while the main gear legs simply clip into place. Everywhere you look on the model you will find a full complement of scale details including ordnance, fuel probe, and a cockpit interior with pilot. The armaments, drop tanks, and landing gear are all easily removable, allowing you to choose between ground takeoffs and hand-launched flight.

UNIQUE FEATURES The EPO construction of the 64mm Rafale is typical of all FMS models with molded center hinges, panel lines, high-quality pre-applied decals, and scale elements added everywhere you look. The pre-hinged surfaces come with linkages installed at the proper lengths and servos with all the leads already routed to the Reflex gyro in the nose. The FMS literature says it takes 10 minutes to assemble the jet, and they aren’t kidding; the only thing that makes this take any longer is waiting for glue to dry. The radio setup is equally simple, requiring no special delta programming as this is handled by the onboard Reflex gyro system.

The included ordnance set is also molded EPO foam with molded plastic pieces for the fins and clips that mount to the underside of the wing. The scale details are a mix of preinstalled plastics and extra features molded directly into the airframe. The only things not preinstalled are the fuel probe, drop tanks, and ordnance, so you have very little to do out of the

A MaxAmps 2800Mah 4S battery provided plenty of power and worked well for obtaining the proper CG. A PowerBox park flyer receiver paired with my Core radio to provide the guidance.

Lots of scale details including the ejection seat, instrument panel, a refueling probe and a painted jet pilot set this small ARF apart from others in its class.

box. The landing gear uses plastic strut covers to add even more detail with the nose gear having a functional suspension.

Due to the size of the model, it is missing a few things that would be preferred in a scale model like retracts, functional canards, and flaps. If these are a deal breaker for you, look at the larger 80mm FMS Rafale as some things just aren’t practical in a model of this size. The one thing absent that would really be beneficial are molded finger holds for hand launching. Due to the width of the intakes, it is difficult to get a grip on the underside of the airframe for a good hand-launch position. As it comes, if you want to hand-launch, you will need to modify the airframe by cutting in some finger holds.

GEAR USED

Radio: PowerBox Core radio with PBR-8E receiver (powerbox-americas.com); servos installed

Motor: 11-blade 64mm EDF with 2840 brushless motor and 40A speed control (included)

Battery: MaxAmps 4S 2800mAh 100C (maxamps.com)

Due to its small size, the Rafael features fixed landing gear but they are dressed up nicely with scale looking oleo struts.

The Rafael uses ball link style pushrods on all the surfaces for a slop free control system. All of the servos and pushrods are installed at the factory leaving very little assembly to do.

BOTTOM LINE Thanks to the highly finished nature of FMS plug-and-play airframes, the Rafale took about half an hour to assemble and have fully programmed in the radio. Paired with a 2800mAh 4S Lipo from MaxAmps, the 11-blade 64mm power system has plenty of power on tap for high-speed and highalpha flight, while the gyro manages the full range of speed keeping things smooth and predictable. This one will be fun for any intermediate pilot looking for a small, no-fuss, low-buck jet.

IN THE AIR The assembled model will fit in virtually any vehicle with no need to remove the wings making it great to throw in anytime you’re heading to the field. The fixed gear will hold up well to lessthan perfect landings, though due to the small size, anything other than a very well-manicured grass field would be a problem without modifying the airframe for hand-launching.

On my maiden flight, I set the center of gravity (CG) was set to the middle of the prescribed range with full ordnance installed. The model tracked well but needed a good bit of up-elevator to get airborne from our paved runway. Once in the air, a little bit of elevator trim is all that was needed to maintain hands-off level flight. I found it very easy to get comfortable with the full flight envelope after only a few times around the pattern. Even with its fixed canard, the Rafale has good elevator control and even settles into high-alpha flight easily while maintaining control authority. In a typical straightforward stall, the model gently sinks forward into a nose-down position, but from the high-alpha position, the model will roll to one side when stalled and needs power and altitude to recover.

Top speed is good without the ordnance, and the 64mm fan has a great sound without the screaming hairdryer pitch you would expect in something this size. When it’s time to land, the model tracks well and settles in easily with power on in a nose high approach.

In subsequent flights I found a rearward CG to alleviate the long takeoff roll and require much less elevator to rotate, and with removed ordnance it was further improved. In mostly high-alpha flight, I found I could get up to 5 minutes of flight time from the 2800mAh pack, which left the pack at around 25 percent, so my timer is conservatively set for three and a half minutes to keep the cells happy. My day ended with a crash of the model when playing with the gusty conditions later in the day. While flying high-alpha figure eights a few feet off the deck the wind abruptly dropped, and the airframe rolled over into the ground. Thanks to the durable construction, there was relatively little damage with a bent nose gear and only a few cosmetic scars remaining after

H I T S + + + + Quick assembly due to the high level of factory completion Detailed scheme with many scale extras Durable construction for less than perfect days Included pre-configured gyro system

M I S S

-No designed provision to aid in hand launching

BEHIND THE TIGER STRIPES

The NATO Tiger Association is an informal group that promotes solidarity among NATO air forces, and it’ s the reason that NATO combat aircraft are often painted with tiger stripes. The first NATO Tiger Meet took place on July 19, 1961, when the U.S. Air Force 79th Tactical Fighter Squadron, which was stationed in Europe, invited Royal Air Force No. 74 Squadron and France ’ s L'Escadron de Chasse 1/12 Cambresis to an air meet at RAF Woodbridge in England. Since then, membership has grown to include 24 full members, 10 honorary members, and seven disbanded members, all of which have a tiger as part of their squadron crests. Annual Tiger Meets allow members to share ideas and experiences as well as promote NATO.

a quick repair. Good performance and durability make this one for low-stress flying.

GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCE Stability: The Rafale has a stable and gentle flight character due to the delta design, and its rearward CG helps if you’re looking to work on your highalpha skills. With the help of the FMS Reflex V2 gyro, the model handles moderate winds quite well. Tracking: The model tracks well with relatively little hunting in level flight. I found that it tracks best and generally handles better without the ordnance installed under the wing. Aerobatics: Scale aerobatics are excellent with plenty of control throw and thrust available for any scale maneuver. With the control rates turned up there is plenty of authority for positive control in high-alpha flight. Glide and stall performance: With a nose down attitude and power off, the model slows quickly and remains predictable in a glide. Stall in normal flight is gentle and uneventful just needing nose down and a little power to recover, but from high alpha the model will quickly roll to one side and drop needing altitude to recover. PILOT DEBRIEFING The FMS 64mm Rafale is a great intermediate electric ducted fan jet for anyone looking to have a fun, scale weekend warrior. With the abundance of scale details not expected in a jet this size, it has more interest than a typical sport jet, but by offering plenty of aerobatic capability and high-alpha performance, it is fun to fly. The included manual leaves nothing in question and with the pre-configured gyro the radio setup is about as easy as it gets with no special programming required.

BY ANDREW GRIFFITH PHOTOS BY TONY LIVELY

The HSD Jets T-33 105mm EDF is an excellent jet to start training for flying turbines. Learning how to handle a large jet with high wing loading, flaps, and retracts is vitally important before you transition to turbine jets.

GET TURBINE QUALIFIED

It’s easier than you may think!

Jets are cool. Get one out and set it up and you generally get the immediate attention of your fellow modelers and most spectators. If you want to take that cool to the next level, you can make the step up to a turbine-powered jet. Turbine jet flying is considered by many as the pinnacle of the hobby and the wide variety of models in many sizes of jets available attests to the popularity of what may be the fastest growing segment of the hobby.

When you’re ready to take your flying to the next level, you need to learn a new skill set and like any other skill it will require both practice and some qualified assistance. When I picked up turbine jet flying several years ago, I felt like a student all over again. I worked with experienced jet pilots, learned the procedures and techniques required to be successful, and finally attained my AMA turbine waiver. It felt like a great accomplishment, and it’s that waiver process that I wish to discuss with you this month.

50-FLIGHT REQUIREMENT If you’re an AMA member and you aspire to fly turbine jets, you need to complete the turbine waiver process. This is an insurance requirement that will allow you to fly at club fields and AMA events. The waiver process is outlined on the AMA website (modelaircraft.org), but it starts with the requirement to complete at least 50 flights on a highperformance model that’s capable of sustained speeds of 100 mph.

The “100 mph” requirement lends itself to a variety of models. As a turbine-qualified CD who spends a lot of time doing turbine-waiver qualification flights, I prefer to see experience with a model that has heavier wing loading and flaps and retracts versus a hotliner that can easily exceed 100 mph but is a different beast entirely to fly.

GAINING SKILLS A large, complex, electric ducted-fan model that’s equipped with flaps, retracts, and brakes and is capable of 100 mph flight is an excellent aircraft with which to begin your transition to turbine flight. You’ll learn how to clean up the model after takeoff (retracting the gear and raising the flaps) for high-speed flight as well as how to slow down, extend the gear and flaps, and set up your approach to prepare for landing. When you’re flying an EDF while preparing to fly a turbine-powered model, you can even simulate the throttle lag of a real turbine engine by slowing the throttle channel on your EDF by 1 or 2 seconds. These are all important skills required to operate a jet! If your EDF has sequenced gear doors, you’ll also learn valuable decisionmaking skills when you must deal with an engine-out situation and decide whether you have time to extend the landing gear or bite the bullet and do a belly-landing away from the runway to save your expensive landing gear.

TURBINE TRAINER After you’ve put in your 50 flights and honed your skills, it’s time to turn your attention to a turbine jet. There are many suitable models on the market, but temper your desire for composite scale jet in favor of a “trainer” style jet. This will build up your flight time and confidence and be less stressful to fly

My dream project is this BVM Jets 1/7-scale F-18 Super Hornet. I spent a couple of years flying sport and scale EDF jets, then transitioned to a turbine trainer and sport jet before I felt comfortable flying something this large and complex.

for your waiver training and qualification flight. An excellent example of a turbine trainer is the Turbinator 2 sold by Boomerang Jets. This is a modestly sized jet that is built up balsa, has the engine mounted on the outside for convenient access, and flies extremely well.

To be eligible for AMA insurance coverage to fly at a club or sanctioned event, you need to have a valid turbine waiver. When you have some buddy box time on an actual turbine jet and the requisite number of high-performance aircraft flights, it’s time to do your waiver flight. That requires two turbine pilots to oversee: a turbine waiver holder and a waiver holder and Contest Director. The purpose of a turbine qualification flight is twofold. Most people think that it’s just making your flight and getting signed off, but properly done it goes deeper. I always have a discussion with potential turbine pilots about startup, ground safety issues, and post-crash fire situations and how each needs to be addressed.

When you’ve completed your waiver, sit back and celebrate! You’ve attained one of the most satisfying ratings available to model airplane pilots and you should be proud of the accomplishment. Now you can start shopping for your dream project.

A modestly sized, built-up turbine “trainer” like the Boomerang Jets Turbinator 2 is helpful to build your flying confidence and turbine operation skills. It’s also a less stressful aircraft to fly when you’re doing your waiver training and test flight. Author’s AMA card with both fixed wing and turbine helicopter certifications. Holding a waiver is a requirement to fly at AMA clubs and events to be eligible for AMA insurance while operating a turbine model.

BY DEBRA CLEGHORN FLIGHT PHOTOS BY DAVID HART (CAPTUREDFROMTHEHART.COM) BUILD PHOTOS BY TIM DICKEY

1/4-SCALE FAIRCHILD PT-23

Tim Dickey recreates a one-of-a-kind primary trainer

It’ s no surprise that Tim Dickey ’ s beautiful 1/4-scale Fairchild PT-23 has placed in the top spots at the AMA Scale Nationals, the NASA Championships, the Scale Masters, and Top Gun. It’ s a beautifully executed aircraft, with precision scale details from its scale propeller to the pinked edging on its rudder. And when Tim starts up its radial four-stroke engine, everyone stops what they ’ re doing to see it fly. I caught up with Tim to learn more about what drives him to create scale models like this one and to get more details on his incredible 26-month build.

The engine is composed of precisely machined and cast components. Bob Walker had several contractors manufacturing the components and was very proud that of all parts were manufactured in the U.S. Complete engine tear down, valves tuned and cylinders honed. Ward Emigh and Bob Walker consulted on the project.

ModelAirplaneNews: How long have you been flying RC? Tim Dickey: I flew control-line as a kid, and I’ve been flying RC for about eight years. I’ve been competing in scale for four years now. My friend Charlie Nelson—who has won at several Nats and Top Gun competitions—taught me the ropes of both flying and building, and he got me into scale. He comes to Arizona during the winter, and one day I went to watch a flying competition that he happened to be in. A week or two later, I went to the field where he was flying and he asked me to fly my plane for him. I did, and we became good friends. We’ve spent countless hours building and at the field practicing and I deeply appreciate his mentorship.

MAN: You built your PT-23 from Wendell Hostetler’s PT-19 plans, right? What are the differences between your aircraft and the plans? TD: Yes, I used Wendell’s PT-19 plans. Major mods include the engine attachment, wing re-engineered for correct dihedral, fuel tanks in the wing center section and removable/airfoiled tail feathers. I built the tail feathers from Aviation Concept’s PT-19 kit plans scaled to 25% because Wendell’s plans have slab tail feathers. I wanted scale airfoils, and I wanted to be able to take them apart.

MAN: What made you want to build a PT-23? TD: Fellow competitor Brad Osborne flies a model built from same plans, and I saw Ward Emigh’s PT-23 and fell in love with the radial engine on the front. and the full-scale aircraft on which it’s based. TD: Fairchild never sold PTs to the Navy. The owner who restored the full-size aircraft painted it in Navy markings to commemorate his lifelong friend who flew jets in Vietnam. “Felix the Cat” was the first cartoon he saw as a child on reel to reel, so he added that artwork. The full-size aircraft is a true one-of-akind. I met the owner at his house on a hot summer day in Rockford, Illinois to get the actual paint he used; we went up into his attic to find the paint cans.

The owner told me two things about the full-scale that gave it crowd appeal: the engine should sound like three jugs [cylinder heads] are about to depart the aircraft at all times, and long and slow takeoff runs showcase the visual and audio characteristics of the aircraft. The full scale won two awards at the

Scale horn recessed in the corner of the aileron with weep vents positioned in the locations of the wing spars. Retractable landing light is surrounded by metal cowling at the wing root. It adds a nice touch during landings.

Exhaust collector ring cowl was formed from an aluminum bake pan. Horizonal stab is built up with balsa sheeting and modeling plywood complete with weep vents for moisture escape. Trim tabs, G10 scale hinges, and access doilies give the elevator true-to-scale appearance.

Positioning of the model for static judging at Top Gun.

True scale aileron horn in aileron corner with weep vents positioned in the locations of the wing spars. Highly detailed cockpits complete with functional control stick chalk, control chains, and a fire extinguisher.

EAA AirVenture show in Oshkosh, so he added decals of Air Venture blue ribbons they gave to the winners.

MAN: Tell us about the covering, paint, and the other details on your model. TD: The covering is Stits Lite with Klass Kote paint. For the details, I used paint masks from Callie Graphics. The only two decals on the model replicate the blue decals on the stabilizer of the full-size. I cut the pinked tapes out of SolarTex using my craft cutter. The PT-23 has scratch-built flaps and Frise ailerons built with the servos tucked in the wings. The batteries and ignition are in the nose chin with side access via a removable panel. The receiver, light controller, and LiPo for the lights are in the fuselage under the front cockpit. The air and gauge can be accessed via the oil door on the engine cowl. Switches and charge plugs are in the fire extinguisher department. The fuel fillers and vents are at scale locations on the top and bottom of the center section.

I made the exhaust cowl from an aluminum baking pan. It was a little tricky as the exhaust port exit directions are not consistent. I made the nose cowling from aluminum panel, bending it to shape until it looked like the one on the full-size PT-23.

MAN: Your PT-23 has an incredibly detailed cockpit. Can you share how you created it? TD: The cockpit cages are made from polystyrene, are removable and painted with Klass Kote. The instrument controls are from iFlyTailies with aluminum tube and cable linkages. The cockpit coaming is goat skin over Fourmost plastic.

MAN: You power your model with a Robart R780 radial engine spinning a 28 x 8 prop. Tell us more about that powerplant, its maintenance, and its sound. TD: It’s a wonderful engine designed by Bob Walker to replicate a Jacobs engine and sold as glow. l have another one on a Stearman model, and both are converted to gas. I got the Robart engine new (never used) and the crankshaft bolt broke after a couple engine runs, so I took it apart. I’m a garage rat: anything I can take apart, fix, or build, I do. It took me about a month to tear the engine down to the very last bolt, do some maintenance, and put it back together. It has an onboard oil pump with oil passages throughout the engine. Very realistic sound with rollers and pushrod noise. It uses a C&H Ignitions carb and ignition setup.

As the fuel tanks are positioned over the center of gravity [CG] but slightly rearward of it, I balance the model with tanks full. However, I did some experiments and found the impact to the CG between full/empty tanks is nearly negligible. That “build it scale and everything will work out” rule again!

MAN: How does the PT-23 fly? TD: The PT-23 weighs 48 pounds, and at 25% it demands attention on flying speed. My routine is mostly low and slow to showcase the engine sounds and colorful markings. It has Sierra brakes, which I use on every taxi and landing.

MAN: Thank you for taking the time to share these details of your PT-23 build. We’re looking forward to seeing you and your soon! Fairchild again on the flightline