17 minute read
BUYING GUIDE MK1 FIESTA XR2
B U Y E R ’ S G U I D E FIES TA XR 2 MK 1
Ford’s first XR2 was a featherweight buzz-bomb from which all fast Fiestas evolved. Now an ever-appreciating classic, the Mk1 XR2 is a pure performance icon that can still be bought, used and enjoyed – if you know where to look…
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Words DAN WILLIAMSON Photos FAST FORD ARCHIVES
WHY YOU WANT ONE…
■ Every fiery Fiesta can trace its roots back to the Mk1 XR2, so its heritage as a piece of iconic Ford history is set in stone. ■ XR values have taken their time to reach RS levels, but they’re now not far behind – and the rarer models (such as Mk1 XR2) are becoming important cars for fast Ford collectors. ■ Just look at it. The sense of fun brought on by driving a 40-year-old roller-skate is equalled only by the cheeky little smile of a Mk1 XR2 poking its nose out of your garage. WHY YOU DON’T…
■ Never the quickest hot hatchback even when new, the Mk1 XR2 is positively pedestrian by today’s standards, and will be left standing by an MPV packed with a family of seven. ■ Although the Mk1 Fiesta is perfectly practical, it’s impossible to overuse for fear of it getting stolen or becoming damaged. Rust, in particular, is always keen to take hold. ■ Most XR2s have led hard lives, so loads have been abused and crashed. Plenty have also been reshelled into existing 1.1 Populars – and are now worth considerably less cash.
HOW MUCH TO PAY
PROJECT: £3000-£6000
It’s unlikely you’ll find a Mk1 XR2 with any hope of being restored for less than £3000. If you do, it’s most likely to have loads of missing parts or a dubious history. Don’t be surprised to see a shell that didn’t originally begin life as an XR.
GOOD: £6000-£12,000
Few average-condition Mk1 XR2s around; most tend to be in need of restoration or already restored. But you might find a roadworthy example, ideally needing just mechanical problems repairing rather than body and trim. CONCOURS: £12,000-£20,000-PLUS
Show-worthy XR2s cost five-figures, with the most money for low-mileage, low-ownership, factory-original cars. First-class restorations are valuable, but sellers of ultra-low-mileage machines will be able to name their price.
IDENTITY
An XR2’s value is tied to its identity. Although there’s nothing wrong with a replica or recreation, it’s not worth as much as the real deal. Ringers and reshells should be treated with extreme caution.
Start by checking that the VIN number on the logbook matches the chassis number stamped into the driver’s-side inner sill/floor, visible through a slot in the carpet. If it’s not there, it could be dodgy or simply rusted away. The same number should be seen on the VIN plate in the engine bay, attached to the offside bulkhead; the VIN number on any Mk1 XR2 should start with VS6 (the code for Valencia, where all XR2s were assembled), followed by BXXWPFB plus two more letters and five digits that relate to the unique chassis number, as also found on the engine.
The engine itself should have a casting reading 771M-6015-CA, along with T7 stamped under number four exhaust port, next to the gearbox.
Check the rest of the VIN plate. The engine code should read L3, the transmission code should be T, and the axle code P (3.58:1 ).
The XR2 bodyshell was unique, with certain key spots to check it’s authentic. Ensure it’s a facelift bodyshell with two-bolt bumper mounts on the front and rear panels (as opposed to single holes on pre-August 1981 Fiestas); if the bumpers have had a fixing removed, suspect it’s not an XR2 shell.
The XR2 front panel was different for the circular headlamps, and the rear valance was also unique, being factory-pressed prior to assembly – unlike the Supersport, which was modified in situ; both have a spare wheel bulge visible below the back bumper.
Crucially, there should be strengthening plates affixed to the chassis rails under the front floorpan with four 13mm-headed bolts. The XR2 also had a reinforcing plate in the nearside front inner wing for a top gearbox mount, which was fitted to all 1300cc Mk1s; if it’s missing, you’re probably looking at a Fiesta 950/1100 bodyshell, and it’s time to walk away.
If in doubt, check with the XR Owners’ Club; membership is essential for any XR2 owner or buyer. VITAL STATISTICS
MADE 1981 to 1983 PRICE WHEN NEW £5150 POWER 84bhp @ 5500rpm TORQUE 91lb.ft @ 2800rpm TOP SPEED 105mph 0-60MPH 9.3 seconds
INTERIOR
Mk1 Fiesta cabins were built on the cheap. Don’t be surprised to see scuffed or broken plastics, loose or missing trim.
Dashboard tops tend to crack, and they’re difficult to repair; decent second-hand replacements are pricey. Make sure the instruments are pukka XR2 bits: a 140mph speedometer and rev counter in grey binnacle with red surround. The centre console should have a similar grey finish.
The switches are durable but the symbols wear off; they’re standard Mk1 bits, so not difficult to source. Dashboard lights often seem dull due to blown bulbs and perished plastic covers.
The XR2’s Storm and Crushed Velour upholstery is relatively hard-wearing but stains easily. The driver’s seat bolster is prone to tearing and its foam collapsing; check it’s not been replaced with a passenger seat. Both fronts should have A-frame headrests, although padded centres were optional and worth the extra cost.
Check the door cards to make sure the vinyl isn’t separating and that the door bins aren’t damaged. The rear parcel shelf may be sagging or cut for speakers; replacements can be expensive.
Beware of cheap-looking carpet – the XR2’s was a plush Ghia grey matt, and is not easy to find in good condition. Make sure the rest of the spec is XR2 too: you’ll need to see an illuminated glovebox and fag lighter.
Don’t forget to look up: XR2s had a black headlining with twin sunvisors, roof-mounted digital clock and three grab handles. If bits are missing, question the car’s authenticity or prepare to start spending; it’s usually cheaper to buy a car with mint interior rather than replacing all the important trim.
Ford went to no expense on the twospoke wheel
Stock trim stains easily Dials had red surround
HISTORY
JUNE 1976
Ford Fiesta goes into production in Valencia, Spain, as Ford’s first frontwheel-drive supermini. It includes transversely-mounted Kent engines in 957cc or 1117cc, new gearbox, MacPherson strut front suspension, rear beam, and front disc brakes.
FEBRUARY 1977
Fiesta goes on sale in UK, with model options of base, L, Ghia and S, with 1298cc engine now available. Fiesta S includes 53bhp 1.1 or 65bhp 1.3, uprated springs, rear anti-roll bar and brake servo.
JULY 1980
Fiesta Supersport launched, based on the regular 1300S with 1298cc Valencia, Series-X spoilers and wheelarch extensions, four-spoke 6x13in alloy wheels, circular driving lamps, bold decals, and Carla cloth upholstery.
SPRING 1981
Fiesta Supersport no longer available.
DECEMBER 1981
Fiesta XR2 launched in UK, developed by Ford SVE and featuring Escort Mexico-based 84bhp 1600cc Crossflow engine, four-speed gearbox, ventilated front disc brakes, 6x13in alloy wheels, circular headlamps, XR2 decals, body-coloured door mirrors, black paint around the windows, Storm cloth cabin, black headlining and two-spoke steering wheel.
JANUARY 1983
Fiesta XR2 Mk1 discontinued after 20,003 UK sales.
JUNE 1984
Fiesta XR2 Mk2 introduced, based on revised Fiesta three-door body and 1.6litre CVH engine.
TECH SPEC
FIESTA XR2 MK1
ENGINE 1598cc four-cylinder OHV Kent with cast-iron block and head, single GT camshaft, 9.2:1 compression ratio, Weber 32/34DFT twin-choke carburettor, four-into-two cast-iron exhaust manifold TRANSMISSION Front-wheel drive, BC fourspeed manual. Final drive ratio: 3.58:1 SUSPENSION Front: MacPherson struts with uprated coil springs and integral shock absorbers, tie rods lowered 25mm, spring seats lowered 15mm; rear: uprated coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers, trailing arms, Panhard rod and larger-diameter (14mm) antiroll bar. Unassisted rack-and-pinion steering BRAKES Dual-circuit braking with vacuum servo assistance; front: 239.5mm discs; rear: 177.8mm drums WHEELS & TYRES 6x13in Wolfrace Sonic 12-hole alloy wheels with 185/60HR13 tyres (typically Pirelli P6) EXTERIOR Fiesta Mk1 three-door hatchback with strengthening plates, circular halogen headlamps, black front and rear spoilers, wheelarch extensions and fuel filler, bodyside decals, black window surrounds, tailgate decal, front driving lamps, bumper overriders, body-colour door mirrors (remote-control on driver’s side), indicators in front bumper, laminated windscreen, tailgate wiper and heated rear window. Colours: Diamond White, Black, Sunburst Red, Strato Silver, Caspian Blue. Optional electric aerial, tinted glass, windscreen shade-band, opening front quarter windows, pop-up sunroof INTERIOR Shark Grey interior, reclining seats in Storm and Crushed Velour cloth, A-frame headrests, Storm fabric door cards, two-spoke steering wheel, 140mph speedometer, rev counter, sports gearknob, centre console with grey finish and push-button P21 radio, door bins, illuminated glovebox, cigar lighter, roof-mounted digital clock, black headlining, twin sunvisors (passenger side with vanity mirror), Shark Grey carpet. Optional headrest pads, push-button radio/cassette player, rear seat belts
ENGINE
XR2 power came courtesy of an old 1.6-litre Kent (Crossflow) engine – a repackaged version of the unit found in Ford’s Escort Mexico of 1970. By now, some of its 84bhp may be missing, and you’ll certainly notice the loss, especially if it won’t rev.
A tired Crossflow will burn oil – usually breathing from the oil filler when warm or billowing out blue smoke through the exhaust. If so, the pistons, rings and cylinder bores will probably be worn; symptoms show up as early as 60,000 miles, but a Kent will generally keep going forever, albeit getting slower.
Don’t be concerned about a puff of smoke at start-up or the overrun, which suggests the valve stem oil seals need to be replaced. Oil leaks are also very common – especially from sump and rocker cover gaskets, particularly if they’ve been overtightened.
Crossflows are relatively simple engines to work on, but parts aren’t as cheap as they once were. Regular oil and filter changes are very beneficial, and it’s worth refreshing the coolant when you get chance. Many XR2s have by now received an unleaded cylinder head conversion, but we’d advise keeping clear of new E10 petrol.
Listen for nasty noises from the engine. It’s inherently a rattly unit due to the timing chain and valve gear, but if it sounds like a typewriter, the tappets probably need adjusting. Heavy clacking could be a slack chain or broken camshaft followers and scored cam, which will mean the engine needs a rebuild.
Misfires and starting difficulties are pretty common but unlikely to be serious – usually pointing to a knackered distributor, ignition amplifier, coil, or old spark plugs and/or leads. Poor performance and rough running may also come from a tired or badly-adjusted carburettor, especially if the auto-choke mechanism is sticking. It’s well worth buying a new Weber to save yourself loads of grief.
Don’t be surprised to see a modified motor under a Mk1 XR2’s bonnet. The Crossflow is capable of producing much more power with a high-lift cam, flowed head, tubular exhaust manifold and bigger carburettors; just remember standard cars are worth more cash, so budget accordingly.
WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW?
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO INSURE?
Not a lot, unless you’re especially young. The Mk1 XR2 isn’t exactly high-risk and, thanks to being 40 years old, now a certified classic. You’ll need to seek a specialist broker instead of a high-street insurer for limited-mileage and essential agreed-value cover. Try one of the insurers approved by the XR Owners’ Club.
WHERE DO I FIND ONE?
Most XRs are now with enthusiasts, so you’ll need to trawl classic car websites or eBay. It’s also wise to contact the XR Owners’ Club, whose members might know of a suitable XR2 for sale. If you’re looking for a mint machine, keep an eye on collectors’ car auctions and specialist dealers.
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO RUN?
Not much – but you’ll not be using it very often anyway. The old Kent Crossflow engine isn’t especially frugal, but the XR2 weighs only just over 800kg, so it doesn’t need much lugging around, nor are maintenance parts subjected to excessive wear. They’re generally cheap to service too.
WILL VALUES RISE OR FALL?
XR prices are on the up, and the Mk1 XR2 is one of the most desirable models. Ignore anyone who insists the bubble will burst: XR values haven’t yet peaked, so this car is a verified investment.
SHOULD I MODIFY IT?
Not any more, unfortunately. Although the Mk1 XR2 loves a bit more power and better brakes, values of standard cars far outweigh modified examples. Not only that, but it’s impossible to improve on the factory-original appearance, don’t you agree?
TRANSMISSION SUSPENSION AND BRAKES
All Mk1 XR2s were fitted with a BC four-speed manual transmission – if you find a five-speed under the bonnet, it’s been retrofitted. While handy for motorway driving, the conversion involved fitting the BC5 from an XR3/XR2 Mk2 and involved cutting out the nearside front chassis leg to accommodate the bigger gearbox. So if you’re looking at a supposedly original car, check the inner wing and chassis rail to make sure it’s never been modified.
The standard four-speed was able to cope with an XR2’s torque, but mileage and lack of maintenance can lead to problems.
Take a test drive. The gearshift isn’t particularly pleasing, but difficulty changing cogs suggests a problem: it could be worn selector bushes in the linkage or poor adjustment. Crunching when selecting reverse is normal, but between forward gears points to synchromesh failure.
If you hear vibrations or whirring, dip the clutch pedal; if the noise stops, it’s from a worn thrust bearing; if it continues, it’s probably from worn differential bearings in the differential; if it’s accompanied by a non-working speedometer, the bearings have collapsed and it’s time for a rebuild.
Check for clutch slip by driving in fourth gear at 30mph, then hammering the accelerator. If the revs go up but the road speed doesn’t increase, the clutch is most likely slipping. But check the ratchet on the back of the pedal isn’t in need of adjustment and that the cable isn’t stretched. It’s all very straightforward beneath a Mk1 XR2, with MacPherson front struts, beam rear axle with coil springs, telescopic dampers and largerdiameter (14mm) anti-roll bar than regular Mk1 Fiesta 1300s.
Check for leaking dampers, and examine the strut top mounts for excessive play. Vibrations and knocking from the front will be caused by worn lower ball joints or track rod ends, while vague steering suggests tired track control arm bushes. The driveshaft and steering gaiters tend to tear, so look for leaks. It’s all cheap to repair.
A worn steering rack (all Mk1s were nonassisted) will exhibit sloppiness from the front. Make sure it’s the proper XR2 rack, which has lock stops to save the 185-section tyres from catching on the wheelarches; examine the inner wings for shiny metal where they’ve rubbed.
Wallowing and poor handling tends to result from knackered dampers or snapped coil springs; the latter will often be accompanied by the XR2 leaning to one side, but could also point to rotten rear axle spring cups, which force the spring into an odd angle; a repair will mean removing the axle from the car. Noises from the back may also be due to broken anti-roll bar drop links or worn trailing arm bushes.
XR2 brakes included small front discs and standard-sized Mk1 rear drums. Drivers of modern hot hatchbacks may be alarmed by a vague brake pedal; it’s naturally spongy but much worse when there’s wear in the linkage between pedal and servo, which runs across the bulkhead.
Brake parts are cheap and easy to source. The fronts may be juddering due to contamination on the discs/pads or a sticking calliper – especially if the car pulls to one side.
Ensure the rear drums aren’t seized, which is common when the car’s not used very often. Check the rear wheel cylinders aren’t leaking and that the handbrake works – the cable could be stretched or badly-adjusted. For safety’s sake, make sure the brake lines aren’t rusty and the rubber hoses aren’t perished, split or ballooning.
Is that a bulge in your valance, or are you just pleased to see an XR2?
EXTERIOR
Mk1 Fiesta bodywork often has more perforations than a teabag. Repairing a rusty XR2 can be an extremely involved task (which explains why so many reshells are kicking around).
Search everywhere for tinworm: start with the front valance and front panel, looking from beneath the bonnet and ensuring it was built for circular headlamps; new panels are tricky to find. Check the leading edge of the bonnet and its underside, then the inner wings, suspension towers, battery tray and bulkhead.
Examine the front wings, particularly behind the wheelarch extensions, then inspect the sills, jacking points and entire floorpan, notably the chassis rails and suspension mounting points. Lift the carpets to check the floors and inner sills.
KEY POINTS
BODY
A rotten Mk1 can be a bankemptying nightmare. Make sure the shell hasn’t been consumed by tinworms.
INTERIOR
Find a car with decent trim and you’ll save yourself loads of grief. Ensure all the proper XR2 bits are in place – yes, even that awful two-spoke steering wheel.
ENGINE
It’s probably rattly, but that’s normal for a Kent. Be more concerned if it’s smoking from the exhaust or breathing from the oil filler cap.
SUSPENSION
XR2s were famed for rollerskate handling. If it’s vague there could be simple bush troubles, but you may also be looking at broken or rotten suspension components or even a rusty bodyshell.
IDENTITY
All too many XR2s have been reshelled or faked. There are certain pointers to an authentic XR2, so do your homework before viewing.
The windscreen pillars, scuttle and door window seals could be crusty, as could the A-pillars – severe rot will result in the shell flexing when you open the doors. The hinge pins also wear, allowing the doors to drop when opened. Doors rust along their rear edges. If there’s a sunroof, see if the aperture is flaky.
At the back, look for rust around the fuel filler, and check the tailgate for corrosion on the edges and around the window seal. Inspect the boot floor, which disintegrates due to leaking tailgate/seals, and look around the rear washer bottle, where a felt pad soaks up water.
Crucially, pay particular attention to the rear valance, which is a factory-pressed panel unique to the XR2 (not the same as a Supersport’s), featuring a bulge to make room for the 13in alloy spare wheel. Rot is common, and replacements are rare.
The polyurethane bodykit can still be found second-hand, but prices are on the rise. Examine the fixings on the wheelarch extensions, which cause the plastic to blister outwards when rotten. Make sure the rear spoiler hasn’t been bent by people prodding it.
Don’t worry if the decals are scabby – topnotch repros are available – but panic if the front driving lamps are missing or corroded. Carello 591s (with correct ball-and-socket fittings) are extremely pricey, and even the brackets cost loads. The unique XR2 7in circular headlamps are also expensive, so check your car hasn’t been adapted to take VW Golf units.
WHAT WE SAY
JAMIE, EDITOR:
“The genesis of all fast frontwheel-drive Fords, the original XR2 is a motoring icon. As such, it’s one of the very few cars I wouldn’t want to modify, not massively anyway. Personally, I wouldn’t mind the five-speed conversion as I’d rather have the extra usability of the fifth gear, but I’d have to stick with the original factory Kent engine, tempting as Zetec or CVH turbo swap is. The interior and body would have to be as close to original as possible to retain that iconic Eighties’ charm. It’d never be a daily or a track hack, but a Mk1 XR2 is an ideal show car that’s guaranteed to draw crowds at any event you attend.” DAN WILLIAMSON, CONTRIBUTOR:
“Being an Escort bloke, the Fiesta was never really my thing. But the Mk1 XR2 is different: it’s exciting in a buzzy basic way, and it has the heritage of being SVE’s first hot hatch, which paved the way for so many Blue Oval legends. Mine would have to be Caspian Blue with factoryoriginal bodywork and interior (except that awful steering wheel). But there’d be a stock-looking 1760cc Crossflow under the bonnet, a set of Bilstein dampers and a pair of four-pot callipers behind those Pepperpot rims. Either that, or I’d keep it standard just to look at and smile.”
CONTACTS
XR OWNERS’ CLUB
www.xroc.co.uk
FIESTA MK1 FORUM
www.fiesta-mk1.co.uk
FIESTA CLUB OF GREAT BRITAIN
www.fiestaclubgb.co.uk
FIESTA OWNERS’ CLUB
www.fiestaownersclub.com
BURTON POWER
www.burtonpower.com
RETRO FORD INTERNATIONAL
www.retrofordinternational.com
