LASH MANUAL PREPARED BY LASH ARTISTS FOR LASH ARTISTS
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4 PHASES IN THE GROWTH CYCLE
1. Anagen phase (the growth phase): This is the phase where your lashes are growing. They will normally only grow to a certain length, and the process lasts between 30 and 45 days. This is the phase where can make your lashes reach their full potential. 2. Catagen phase (the transition phase): This is the shortest phase-only lasting 2-3 weeks. When one of the lashes has reached their needed lengths, they will eventually stop growing and at this point, the hair follicle begins to shrink. If an eyelash falls out during this phase, due to cluster lashes, for example, it won’t start growing back until the phase has run its course. Normally within 23 weeks. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
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4 PHASES IN THE GROWTH CYCLE
3. Telogen phase (the resting phase): This is the longest phase of the life cycle, and it can last 100 days. The eyelash will eventually fall out during the telogen phase, and it normally takes 4-8 weeks before a new one starts growing. This means that there will be an empty follicle for about 4-8 weeks. However, this is no reason to panic, since lashes will eventually grow back in those areas.
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THE EYELASH GROWTH CYRCLE
The hairs on our body including our eyelashes have a normal growth cycle. The life cycle of eyelashes is about three months long. We are born with a certain amount of hair follicles, which remain relatively constant throughout our lives.
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THE EYELASH LIFE CYCLE DIVIDED INTO THREE STAGES 1. Anagen phase (the growth phase) This is the phase where your lashes are growing. They will normally only grow to a certain length, and the process lasts between 30 and 45 days. This is the phase where can make your lashes reach their full potential.
2. Catagen phase (the transition phase) This is the shortest phase-only lasting 2-3 weeks. When one of the lashes has reached their needed lengths, they will eventually stop growing and at this point, the hair follicle begins to shrink. If an eyelash falls out during this phase, due to cluster lashes, for example, it won’t start growing back until the phase has run its course. Normally within 2-3 weeks.
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THE EYELASH LIFE CYCLE DIVIDED INTO THREE STAGES 3. Telogen phase (the resting phase) This is the longest phase of the life cycle, and it can last 100 days. The eyelash will eventually fall out during the telogen phase, and it normally takes 4-8 weeks before a new one starts growing. This means that there will be an empty follicle for about 4-8 weeks. However, this is no reason to panic, since lashes will eventually grow back in those areas.
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ILUSTRATION OF THE VARIOUS PHASES OF THE LASH GROWTH
Important to keep in mind clients lash health As a lash artist you need to know that you should NOT overload the clients lashes in certain phases of growth
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WORKING WITH LASHES IN DIFFERENT LASH PHASES Clients Lash Health is #1 Early catagen: in this lash phase, the lashes grow really really quickly, and if the lash artist overloads the lashes with lenghts that are too long, the lashes will twist over and fall out. These lashes will actually be in the first 2-5 days of their life cycle. It’s recommended to use no Longer then 6-7 mm in the early catagen phase. In the late catagen phase 7-10 day of the life cycle the lashes will grow 2-3 mm within 4 days. This is the reason it’s important to ensure that the lashes thT are applied Re no longer then 6-7 mm. If longer lashes are applied, they will grow out within the first week, and twist over on themselves and start dropping . This will result in the client coming back and complaining about the lashes not lasting . We want the clients lashes to look great when she leaves the salon, but also for T least 2 weeks after .
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WORKING WITH LASHES IN DIFFERENT LASH PHASES Late catagen phase: in this phase the lashes have grown out slightly more, they no longer look like baby lashes, but now they are still shorter then the regular lashes. They are in the 7-10 day of their life cycle. These lashes cause the most issues since they grow out at least 3mm within the first 3-4 days after a set. If using lenghts that are too long, the lashes will start dropping within the first week. this is why it’s so important to identify which growth stage the lashes are in before applying a lash extension. We want the clients to have nice lashes for as long as possible without any issues or complaints that the lashes are dropping or twisting over . Anagen phase requires an adjustment of extension length, never above 6-7mm, as grow very quickly. Catagen/ telagen phase: in this stage, it’s important to remember that these lashes will fall out, this is normal after 2-3 weeks all lashes have a growth cycle and will renew themselves. It’s good when they fall out with the extension attached, meaning that thenatural lash has reached the end of its cycle .
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VARIETY OF CURLS LENGTHS AND DIAMETER YOU CAN USE
This is a simple illustration of the types of lengths you may want to use, and the curls youmay want to use always keeping in mind the clients lash health in mind, to avoid overloading the lashes
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LASH SIZE
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LASH APPLICATION
Apply the lash fan after swiping the fan into the adhesive and apply the lash fan onto the clients natural lash about 1 mm from the eyelid, release the the lash extension onto the natural lash. Continue to another region or the opposite eye, applying extensions until you reach the desired fullness.
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TWEEZERS FOR ISOLATION
When it comes to your client’s eyelashes, choosing lash curl types and lengths for them is very important. You want to be meeting your client’s specifications, but also educate them on what may be best for them. You want to make sure they are getting the desired look while maintaining something safe and manageable for them.
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TYPES OF MEGA VOLUME TWEEZERS
The tips of your tweezers should come to a perfect precise point with no gap when closed. This ensures that you are able to firmly grasp the eyelash extensions and allowing fans to be easily made when doing volume lashes
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HOLD YOUR TWEEZERS PROPERLY
This method allows your wrist to be at a natural position that prevents fatigue and injury, as well as gives you even tension on the tweezer for gripping the lash fans.
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HOLD YOUR TWEEZERS PROPERLY
This is an illustration to explain what is a great way for you guys to hold the tweezers and what your hand placement should be like. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
WORKING ZONE FOR YOUR TWEEZERS
This seems like a small detail , but if you get these details wrong you will struggle with the making of your lash fans greatly.
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WHICH LASH CURLS TO USE
For monolids, it’s better to avoid using flat curls like J and B curls since the natural lash is already flat, this curl will simply weight down the lash and make the eye look smaller. The orientation of your eyes – deep set, wide set, close set, your eye color. The qualities of your clients natural lashes – their length, volume, color and curl. Some clients will come see you with lashes so damaged that it’s simply not safe to apply eyelash extensions to them, and it’s best to just use growth serum until the lashes grow back and look healthy to withstand eyelash extensions again.
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It’s also ideal to evaluate your clients preferences – a girl next door, barely there mascara look vs. a dramatic look, for going out to a party . The best way to assess this is to ask your client, show me 3 - 4 lash sets you love and we can discuss if those sets are realistic for you.
WORKING WITH LASH CURLS For monolids, it’s better to avoid using flat curls like J and B curls since the natural lash is already flat, this curl will simply weight down the lash and make the eye look smaller. The orientation of your eyes – deep set, wide set, close set, your eye color. The qualities of your clients natural lashes – their length, volume, color and curl. Some clients will come see you with lashes so damaged that it’s simply not safe to apply eyelash extensions to them, and it’s best to just use growth serum until the lashes grow back and look healthy to withstand eyelash extensions again. It’s also ideal to evaluate your clients preferences – a girl next door, barely there mascara look vs. a dramatic look, for going out to a party . The best way to assess this is to ask your client, show me 3 - 4 lash sets you love and we can discuss if those sets are realistic for you.
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WORKING WITH LASH CURLS B CURL This lash curl will give you the added lift while still staying fairly natural. Almost the same specification with the J curl, this has just a bit curlier. Result will still be on a natural look. B curl is suitable for clients who wanted to look for something extra look but still wanted to look like natural. C CURL This lash curl is perhaps the most popular in the sense that it provides the lift of a lash curler to open up the eyes. This is recommended on slight curlier natural lash and as a result it will have a much stronger bond and lasting retention. The reason why most clients prefers this is as it is much curlier and it really has a popping effects. As for me, C curl is my go-to lashes, that is just so perfect to work with. C curl is for your clients who are eyeing for look that is dramatic, added so much attitude on the look, it opens up the eyes, well C curl works best! D CURL This lash curl adds more lift than C curl for added definition and sweep. This curl is not recommended for straight lashes and hooded eyes as it is a bit curly and it might hurt your eyelids. The curliest and considered to be giving you that dramatic look. This curl would look best on the younger clients compare to a mature ones.
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WORKING WITH LASH CURLS
When it comes to your client’s eyelashes, choosing lash curl types and lengths for them is very important. You want to be meeting your client’s specifications, but also educate them on what may be best for them. You want to make sure they are getting the desired look while maintaining something safe and manageable for them. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
WORKING WITH LASH CURLS D curls are the most dramatic and full look, and they will be the most visible from the front. They are also the most popular curl to use. B curl has a very natural curl, it will give the look of a natural uncurled lashes. C curl is the most widely used lash curl and is suitable for the majority of clients. CC curl is a great combination between the C and D curls. D curl is used to achieve full, dramatic looks. This curl is ideal for clients who want more lifting and works well with doll eye mapping. L curl has a straight base that transitions and lies flat on the client's natural lash, this is a great curl for moonlit eyes, as well as clients who have very straight natural lashes. L+ curl resembles the L curl with its sharp base but has a slightly curvier bend than the L curl.
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WORKING WITH LASH CURLS
When it comes to your client’s eyelashes, choosing lash curl types and lengths for them is very important. You want to be meeting your client’s specifications, but also educate them on what may be best for them. You want to make sure they are getting the desired look while maintaining something safe and manageable for them. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
WORKING WITH LASH CURLS
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HOW TO MIX DIFFERENT LASH CURLS IN EYELASH EXTENSION
So let’s start with downward growing lashes - the most awesome curls to lift up those lashes are the L, L + and M curls, they will give a visual lifting effect. For straight growing lashes, and for clients that would like to keep a fairly natural look. You can try using the C, B and J lashes . These are fairly straight lashes.
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For upward growing lashes, in other words curly lashes , you can use CC and D curls in order to mimic the clients natural lashes and for giving the clients a more dramatic look this curl would be ideal.
HOW TO MIX DIFFERENT LASH CURLS IN EYELASH EXTENSION
So let’s start with downward growing lashes - the most awesome curls to lift up those lashes are the L, L + and M curls, they will give a visual lifting effect.
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NARROW VS. WIDE LASH LINE When working with lash rows
Not all clients lash line will be the same, some will have a very narrow lash line, others will have a wider lash line, this will determine how far you have to place each fan, or classic lash in relation to each other. In this illustration it is easy to see how the lash line will affect the overall final look of the clients lashes.
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FAN MAKING
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HOW TO MAKE LASH FANS WITH SHORTER LENGTHS
For inner corners and shorter lashes it’s best practice to always use shorter lengths such as 4mm5mm-6mm. Ideally. This will ensure a more uniform lash set, and ensure that your clients lash integrity remains intact. Long and heavy lashes will damage your clients lashes and won’t look as nice. Therefore, always THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
keep this in mind.
HOW TO MASTER LASH FANS MAKING
Do not pick it off the sticky strip before it look as symmetrical as possible. Fix the lash leg by simply dipping it in some glues.
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WHY YOUR LASH FANS KEEP CLOSING?
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WHAT IS SHIMMY METHOD?
A very popular method because it also creates that symmetrical look and it also creates a thin foot for your lash fans. You’re going to thread the lash tweezers through the lashes, picking a thickness you need for your lash fans.
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WHAT IS ROLLING METHOD?
Rolling is almost the same as pinch method. It’s that gentle rolling between your two fingers that is going to separate the lashes into a lash fans.
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HOW TO HOLD A LASH FAN
This is the proper way on how you should holds a lash fans. Always hold it a little higher then the middle to ensure the fan stays together and doesn’t fall apart.
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HOW TO PREVENT LASH FANS FROM COLLAPSING?
Do your lash fans fall apart when you take them with your lash tweezers? Why does this happen? Most outrun it’s because your lash tweezers is too tight and rigid and you are holding it too tight.
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CLASSIC, HYBRID (MIX) AND VOLUME LASH EXTENSIONS: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE?
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CLASSIC looks simple and more natural. The way it is applied is on a one-to-one ratio, which means that one lash extension is attached to one natural lash only. The lash application normally takes 1.5 to 2 hours. Classic lashes will not add much volume but will add length and will provide an even lash line that opens up the eye. HYBRID is a combination of classic lash extensions which is 30% and volume lash extensions which is 70%. Hybrid gives more texture, adds volume and length to your clients lashes resulting in a wispy look and without a full appearance of volume set. VOLUME can vary from a natural look that adds volume and length to a dramatic and full look. The lashes range from 2D-6D, and anything above a 4D will appear as if your client is wearing strip lashes, opposite to the natural look that classic and hybrid extensions provide.
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VOLUME FAN NEGATIVE SPACE (0.15MM VS 0.07MM)
In comparison to a single 0.15 mm extension, a volume fan made of three 0.07 mm extensions creates a lot of negative space (brown). The reason why this volume fan isn't heavier.
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VOLUME FAN NEGATIVE SPACE (0.15MM VS 0.03MM)
In comparison to a single 0.15 mm extension, a volume fan made of twelve 0.03 mm extensions creates a lot of negative space (brown). The reason why this volume fan isn't heavier.
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VOLUME FAN NEGATIVE SPACE (0.15MM VS 0.05MM)
In comparison to a single 0.15 mm extension, a volume fan made of seven 0.05 mm extensions creates a lot of negative space (brown). The reason why this volume fan isn't heavier.
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UNDERSTANDING RUSSIAN VOLUME FAN BONDING
The diagram above shows how Russian volume fans hug the natural lash when built and applied correctly, resulting in a stronger adhesive bond than classic extensions or even pre-built fans.
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SAFETY OF LASH DIAMETERS
To balance the weight of the extensions on the natural lash while maintaining the full set look, you'll need perfect control over your fans. Handmade volume fans are the most effective way to personalize each set for your clients, even if it isn't the easiest suitable option.
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DISTANCE OF EYELASH EXTENSION TO THE EYELID
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Extensions must be placed along with the natural eyelash, 0.5mm-0.1mm away from the skin along the lash line. If the extensions are not correctly placed at the distance required, this can result in two issues. First, you will be too far out along the natural lash, leaving a visible gap. This will make it look like the client has had 2 – 3 weeks of lash growth and they are requiring infills. Alternatively, if the lash extension is placed too close to the skin, you may have the opposite concern. In this case, the lash will rub every time that the client opens and closes their eye. Even
VOLUME LASHES: HOW DO YOU APPLY?
Apply fans evenly across the eyelash line, beginning at the inner corner of the eye. Fans should be applied to the client's natural eyelashes, not the eyelid tissue. As you place the fans, fluff the extension lightly to check its appearance.
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VOLUME LASHES AND MEGA VOLUME LASHES: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE?
The number of lashes used to create the fan and the diameter of the lashes differentiates mega volume from volume lashes. For the volume fan, you will use 2 to 5 lashes with diameters from 0.05 to 0.07 mm. For the mega volume fan, you will use 6 to 16 lash extensions with diameters from 0.03 to 0.05 mm.
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LASH RETENTION
As you can see all these curls will have different retention because the surface area the extension will adhere to the natural lash will vary. It’s important to master working with one curl and ensure that your retention is excellent before moving on to another curl. It’s ideal to make sure that you are not having clients with certain curls coming back with poor lash retention. If bad retention occurs with a certain curl, it’s important to evaluate the surface area and practice with that specific curl, until the contact between the surface area is optimal.
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LASH RETENTION: HOW TO ACHIEVE IT? Tips for your client’s lashes to last as long as possible. Here are a couple of tips I have noticed that decrease this issue for me. 1. Humidity The lash glue performs ideally in a humidity range of 4060%. Get a hydrometer to keep your lash room humidity under control. This tool is a must, and inexpensive to purchase. For more information, check out this article for tips on maintaining the perfect eyelash humidity in your workspace. 2. Dehumidifier If your room is too moist, you will need to use a dehumidifier to keep your work environment moisture controlled. 3. Temperature 72-77 degrees F is where you want to be at! Make sure your temperature is in the correct range so your glue stays consistent. 4. Glue Make sure to shake your glue thoroughly. If your glue sits for too long, the compounds can separate. You must shake for about 30-60 seconds to remix everything properly.
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SHAKING YOUR LASH ADHESIVE It is incredibly important you shake your lash adhesive. The cyanoacrylate will technically sit on the bottom of the lash adhesive bottle and the clear substance that is inside the adhesive will also need to be shaken properly. It is important to shake the adhesive for at least 1 minute by hand or 20 seconds with a glue shaker. The two main ingredients in our glues are black carbon & cyanoacrylate (the bonding component). When your glue has had a chance to settle the black carbon will sit at the bottom of your glue, and the clear solution, cyanoacrylate will sit at the top. So if you don’t shake your glue properly before starting, you will only be getting cyanoacrylate (the bonding agent). This will be okay for your first few sets, however over time you will be only left with the black carbon which will negatively affect your glue’s ability to bond. This is where you will start running into trouble and experiencing retention. Tip - If your glue starts to come out clear it means you are primarily dispensing cyanoacrylate, which is a sure sign that you need to be shaking more.
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ADHESIVE DROP It’s is important to change your adhesive drop ever 1530 minutes as well. Remember that all adhesives start to slowly loose their effectiveness as soon as they come into contact with air.
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HOW TO DIP LASH EXTENSION IN GLUE CORRECTLY
The way you dip your lash fans in the adhesive will have a very important impact on your clients’ retention. Here is a diagram below, describing the best way to dip your lashes in our adhesive. Ideally, you should never glaze the lashes on top of the adhesive, as this will not add enough adhesive, and can result in poor lash retention. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
You should also avoid dipping the lash on the bottom of the glue drop, as your lash will be dipping in glue. The ideal way is to dip about 1-3 mm of the lash tip into the middle of your adhesive drop. This will ensure you have just the right amount of glue in order to ensure great retention.
Another tip is to ensure that your adhesive drop is the correct size, it is incredibly important for it to have a sufficient amount of adhesive to allow for the perfect grip to the natural lash. If there is not enough adhesive, the client's lashes will fall out prematurely. Additionally, if the lashes have an excessive amount of adhesive, there will be other issues associated with stickies. Please refer to the image for the correct amount of adhesive you should have in order to THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
achieve great lash retention.
HOW TO PROPERLY CARE FOR LASH ADHESIVE
Always burp your adhesive in order to ensure that your adhesive lasts for as long as possible (normally 4 weeks). If you do not burp the adhesive the air will actually get into the adhesive and make it less effective much faster.
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PRIMING YOUR LASHES Priming your client's lashes is also extremely important after doing the lash bath. You do not want to skip this step, it only takes 2-5 minutes, and makes a great difference when it comes to improving your client's retention. DO: use micro brushes applying the primer underneath the natural lash and above the natural lash. It’s important. Make sure that the micro brushes are white after the priming process. Ensure that there’s no mascara left on the micro brushes after the priming process. Make sure the micro swabs are moist but not dripping wet since this can cause redness in the client's eyes DO NOT: Make sure you apply the primer with micro swabs only do not use any swabs with cotton. This can cause a chemical burn as well due to contact with lash adhesive..
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LASH WRAPPING
After you've created your fan using whatever method you prefer, apply an appropriate amount of glue to the extensions and isolate a natural lash. Once the extension has been properly isolated, place it over the natural lash. Once the glue has adhered to the natural lash, apply slight downward pressure to almost splay the base so that it wraps around the natural lash. When the pressure is released, the glue will tighten the base. By applying an extra second of downward pressure to each fan, you should be able to see the wrap happen and notice your retention improving.
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FLUTTERING LASHES Twitching and moving eyes during application can be a big issue when applying for lash extensions. If the eye is constantly moving it creates a risk of glue getting into the eye. It can also cause you (the lash artist) to not apply the lashes correctly on each lash resulting in premature shedding. AS A CLIENT TO EASE EYE TWITCHING, YOU MIGHT WANT TO TRY THE FOLLOWING: Drink less caffeine. Get adequate sleep. Keep your eye surfaces lubricated with over-the-counter artificial tears or eye drops. Apply a warm compress to your eyes when a spasm begins. EYELASH EXTENSION APPLICATION: MOVING EYES Place a gel pad on your client’s upper lid, “sandwiching” the lash line, and calming the moving lids. If the additional gel pad isn’t enough to settle the moving lashes, use paper or plastic tape to attach the upper and lower gel pads together.
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FLUTTERING LASHES TIPS AND TRICKS Be sure your client has not drunk coffee or any caffeinated drinks before coming in for her lash appointment. Create a relaxing ambiance. Put a piece of relaxing music, maybe use a scented and aromatic candle Try keeping the talking to a minimum. When talking, the eyes seem to flutter a bit more. Ask your client if the light being used is bothering them. If so, try to dim the light to the lightest possible. Talk a bit less or no talking at all, this way clients will be able to relax and have a good nap while having their session. Be patient, fluttering lashes happen and we just have to be patient with this kind of situation. Check your clients and ask questions if the fluttering is still happening. We have to make sure that our clients are comfortable during the session. Do not huff and puff and talk about stressful topics this can stress out your clients and cause excessive twitching.
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WHY DO WE HAVE TO DRAW DOTS ON THE EYELIDS?
Although you already have a mapping on your tape, I would highly recommend to draw dots on the eyelids, as well. In fact, when you move the the tape, or remove the patches in the middle of the lash set, your mapping can easily get lost.
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LASH MAPPING
You can then pick your lash map once you've determined your client's eye shape. There are several lash types to choose from, we've included a few lash maps examples below: So let’s start with downward growing lashes - the most awesome curls to lift up those lashes are the L, L + and M curls, they will give a visual lifting effect.
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LASH MAPPING Cat: use the longest lashes towards the outside edge of the lashes to create the illusion of wide-set "exotic" eyes. Almond, close-set, and round eyes are all good choices. Round: Applying for lash extensions in the same direction as the natural lashes will give you fuller, longer-looking lashes while keeping the natural eyelash pattern. Almond and Upturned Eyes Suits for this style. Squirrel: To achieve this look, start short and gradually lengthen, with the halfway point being the longest length, before gradually shortening again. Almond, Close-set, Downturned, Monolid, Hooded, Protruding, and Round eyes are all good choices.
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LASH MAPPING
Dolly: Establish the illusion of wide, open eyes by using longer lashes in the midsection of the lashes. Almond and wide-set eyes go well together. Kim K: One of the most common lash styles is Kim K. To achieve the Kim K look, spikes or the longer lengths are placed in different parts of the eye to produce a wispy set. Round and Almond eyes are both perfect for this lash style.
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LASH MAPPING FOR SQUIRREL EYELASH EXTENSIONS
The squirel lash look is a natural looking lash look in which the longest lashes are applied under the arch of the brow. Suitable for clients with high brown arch, close-set of eyes and outer corner lashes growing downwards.
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LASH MAPPING FOR DOLLY EYELASH EXTENSION
If your eyes also fall into the round category, then choose the Baby Doll. the Doll Eye is characterized by length right across the eye line with the longest lashes on the middle of the eye. This style will make the eyes appear larger and fuller, but not as much as the Open Eye style.
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LASH MAPPING FOR CAT EYELASH EXTENSION
The cat eyelash extension style features shorter lengths gradually lengthening to long lashes on the corner of the eyes. this mimics the shape of winged liner. it is Perfect for those with round eyes, the cat balances out the eye shape and creates a sultry look.
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MISTAKES IN DIRECTION
As you can see, incorrect eyelash application can cause all kinds of issues to the eye area and skin surrounding it. To avoid causing serious damage, doing your research, and having the correct training in the lash application is crucial. The first mistakes are the multi-directional artificial eyelash extension. It occurs when you don’t put the eyelash extension according to a certain scheme. If your client has straight natural lashes and it’ll be easier to work with, but, what about with clients with eyelash growth unevenly?
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HOW TO IMPROVE YOUR LASH SETS
If you would want to keep seeing these useful posts please like them. Working with short lashes is quite an important art to master if you want to work with beautiful clean looking perfect sets. The short lash lengths are 5-6-7 mm. If you want your lash sets to look flawless start using shorter lash extensions for the inner corner and on the bottom lashes.
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There are 3 cases when we absolutely need to work with these shorter lash lengths. It is by working with the inner corner lashes and working with eyelashes in the stage of growth (Anagen). . So the rules of using lengths: 1. The Maximum length for natural lashes in the inner corners is 6mm for most customers. Even If you think that the client's natural eyelashes are longer than 6 mm, the lash extensions should be no more than 6. The 7 mm is used for those clients whose eyelashes are very long and thick. For The average customer, the length for inner corners lashes is 5-6 mm. I like to use short-length lashes that are in the growth stage, we need to make sure we use shorter lengths in order to avoid overloading the lashes. 😞 Depending on whether the early is anagen or late length can be from 5 to 7 mm. The other instance you can use shorter lengths is for bottom lashes, it’s fairly self-explanatory why you do NOT want to overload the bottom lashes. length 5-7 a By applying these tips You can now make your work more beautiful and safer if start applying these tips.
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HOW TO WORK WITH LASH ROWS/ LAYERS
Always map out your lash sets, ensuring that you have a great visual where all the lash layers are located. The layer closest to the lash artist should always be the shortest layer, followed by the middle layer. The longest layer should be the layer furthest away from the lash artist, as illustrated on the image as 12mm.
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THIS ILLUSTRATION EXPLAINS THAT IT IS IMPORTANT TO CONSIDER THE CLIENT’S EYES STRUCTURE WHEN CHOOSING THE MAPPING FOR EACH INDIVIDUAL CLIENT Clients with folded eyelids and monolids inner corners should be mapped out slightly differently. As illustrated if the lash lengths are too short, like 7-8mm, then the skin will actually cover a large part of the client’s extensions. The solution for this is to actually increase the length of the inner corner lashes, in order to balance out the client’s eyes and give the client an open-eyed look.
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LASH LAYERING TECHNIQUE (TAPING LAYERS)
STEP #1 Do the top later STEP #2 Remove the paper tape STEP #3 Peel back the middle layer STEP #4 Finish off with lower layer lashes
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HOW TO APPLY LASH PATCHES
Make sure your clients look straight. Keep the gel pads at least 2-3 mm, away from the client’s waterline. When the client closes their eyes, ask them if they feel any pinching or discomfort. Then gently pull the tape or pads to readjust whole their eyes are closed.
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WATERY EYES DURING LASH EXTENSIONS
Try and use adhesive nozzle wipes if your client has watery eyes on the outer corners of their eyes, this helps to absorb the extra moisture from their eyes.
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IS IT NORMAL FOR YOUR EYES TO WATER AFTER EYELASH EXTENSIONS?
Although eyelash extensions are attractive, they may pose a risk to your skin and eyes. It's also important to keep your eyes closed during the process to avoid inhaling glue or adhesive mist. This could result in everything from moist eyes to a severe burn.
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HOW TO ISOLATE
Double-handed isolation technique, you can use both of your hands to isolate lashes, this is one of the easiest way to work on clients lashes.
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WHY IS LASH ISOLATION IMPORTANT?
Isolation allows for the natural shedding process to take place. Every single one of our lashes go through a growth cycle, if any of our lashes are stuck together they will not be able to shed like they are intended to.
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MASTER THE SKILLS OF COLOR LASHES
1. Use clear adhesive 2. To achieve a more defined eyeliner effect, use a black adhesive 3. To create different effects, place color lashes on different layers 4. Use color lashes that match the color of your client's eyes 5. Mix black lashes in with color lashes for a more subtle THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
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HOW TO ADD A POP OF COLOR
Colored Lashes for Eyelash Extension can make your client's eyes really pop. First, pick a color and apply it to one of the layers.
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WORKING WITH DOWNWARD FACING EYES
Downward facing eyes have a tendency to look droopy if they are styled incorrectly. There are some contraindications for clients with this type of eye shape. You really want to avoid the squirrel mapping since it will make the eyes look really droopy like sad puppy dog eyes. We want to avoid this at all cost. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
HOW TO GET THOSE INNER CORNERS
FIRST, apply paper tape with holes to the inner corner eyelid. then pull very gently to the outer corner and secure gently.
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BREATHABLE TAPE FOR EYELASH EXTENSIONS
Breathable tape is the bomb! so gentle and Incredibly flexible. You need it for your clients especially on those difficult inner corner, and to tape down the bottom lashes lashes, that stick out from under the patches.
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WHAT TO USE IF YOUR CLIENTS ARE ALLERGIC TO THE GEL IN HYDROGEL PATCHES?
When your clients are sensitive or allergic to the gel in hydrogel patches, TRY to use lash foam tape patches. You can use it under the eye instead of gel patches, essentially well as on the top of the eyelid to lift the lid and natural lashes.
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HOW CAN I MAKE LASHING EASIER?
You can use tape to manipulate client's lids to be able to isolate easier or to pull back extensions to help isolate harder to reach natural lashes too. If you don't currently use tape to help with isolation, use it! It will save you so much time and will help you produce great quality lash extensions.
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HOW SHOULD YOU SIT WHEN DOING EYELASH EXTENSIONS?
The ideal posture for eyelash extension application: Both the lashing bed and the adjustable stool should be set at a height that allows you to sit straight up with both feet on the floor. Place your feet on either side of the lash bed, so you are straddling the bed while performing the lash service.
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LASH DIRECTION
The way you direct lashes when applying them to natural lashes will make a great impact on the final look of your set. Naturally, there is no cookie-cutter solution that will fit all sets. However, you should look at the clients as a whole in order to evaluate their features and decide which direction you should work on. Wide-set eyes Close-set eyes Narrow eyes Or simply to achieve particular lash style THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
HOW CAN YOU IMPROVE THE DIRECTION OF YOUR LASH WORK?
HERE ARE SOME STEPS WHICH YOU CAN USE RIGHT AWAY TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE.
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WHAT SEQUENCE TO WORK WITH ROW
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1
Express Technique
2
By the book Technique
3
Row by row Technique
DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES #1 EXPRESS TECHNIQUE It's good for sets that don't take much time like hybrid, classic or light volume. It's important to start with the inner and outer corners of the lashes first and fill them up one after the other. You gonna do the inner corner, outer corner, inner corner, outer corner and followed by the middle of the clients lashes, the midline. Fill up the midline as much as you can but the most important to remember is to really ensure that you fill up those inner and outer corners to look like a full set. #2 BY THE BOOK TECHNIQUE This technique takes 2 to 2 half hours, working from inner corners to outer corners. Do the inner corner first followed by the midline of the eye finishing off with the outer corner. This technique is really good for volume sets and can be used for mega volume. Good also for intermediate artists. #3 ROW BY THE ROW TECHNIQUE This is the most complex TECHNIQUE, it takes 3 to 3 half hours depending on what set you are doing. Either volume or mega volume set, you can use it for both.
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Start with the outer corners first and continue on the midline of the eye finishing off with inner corners. The inner corner is a challenging area for most lash artists. This is a technique that is often used by the advanced lash artist.
WHAT IS THE IDEAL THICKNESS FOR VOLUME LASH EXTENSIONS?
Most lash artists prefer 0.07 to use. The majority of clients seeking a natural or glamorous application prefer a length of 12 mm.
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HOW TO GET DENSITY WITHOUT DAMAGING THE NATURAL LASHES?
The first thing you need to do is to fill the mature lashes with volume lash fans that are the longest and heaviest, complementing the client's natural lashes. After, to complement the natural lashes, fill in the teenage lashes with shorter length and lighter weight. The teenage lashes will remain within the design as they grow to a mature length. They will simply be replaced when the next fill is completed.
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HOW DO YOU UNSTICK EYELASH EXTENSIONS FROM BOTTOM LASHES?
Make sure the root of the extensions is place right on the top of the root of the natural eyelash and make sure its glued right. It can also happen if the extension has grown out. To unstick, gently pull eyelashes apart, they should separate most of the time. If not, gently separate the lashes with the client's eyes closed. Take a deep breath and move slowly, there is no need to rush. Your positive energy will also help the client relax. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
HOW TO REMOVE THE EYELASH EXTENSIONS SAFELY AND CORRECTLY? STEP #1 Once applied, the lash remover dissolves the adhesive bonds, allowing lash extensions to be gently removed while causing no pressure to the natural lash. STEP #2 Allow to sit for 90 seconds after applying liberally to the lash extensions. STEP #3 Gently remove lash extensions with a micro swab. After removal, thoroughly rinse. When applied, the formula is easy to control and will not run into your clients' eyes. STEP #4 We suggest washing the eyelashes after with a lash shampoo in order to remove any extra residue and wiping the eyes with lint-free wipes. STEP #5 Once the lashes are dry you can start your full set or your refill. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
WHY DO WE NEED A LASH REFILL?
Lash refills are used to fill in any obvious gaps left by lash extensions falling out naturally. Due to oil or other impurities, the place where your natural lashes meet the eyelash extension weakens in time. it will become unstable after three weeks and will be ready to come off.
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DIFFERENCE OF PRE-MADE AND PRO-MADE FANS?
Premade fans are fans that are ready for you to use. They were placed on a lash tray and ready for you to pick up and attach to the natural lashes of your clients. Promade fans are fans made by the lash artist without the help of the machinery, this makes them absolutely 100% hand-made. Some lash artist are making this prior to their clients appointments.
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BEST TIME-SAVING LASH EXTENSION TIP
Have your whole setup ready before the client arrives. Make sure you know which lashes they prefer, which curl, what size, so that everything is set up and ready to go! For this, I recommend writing down all your regular clients info in a logbook. THOUSANDLASHES.BIZ
LASH EXTENSION CARE TIPS
Taking care of your eyelashes is essential for a beautiful, long-lasting set. check out this tips on how to take good care of your lash extensions.
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AFTER CARE ROUTINE For clients
Aftercare for Eyelash Extension: 1. Be gentle and do not rub and pull your lashes. 2. Wash your lashes regularly 3. Keep oil-based products away from your eyes. 4. Apply oil-free remover. 5. Use recommended lash foam to wash your lashes.
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Always remember: Clean Lashes, Healthy Lashes, Longer Retention
LASH CART ORGANIZATION TIPS
The most accessible part of the lash cart is the top section, it should contain all of the items you will need. The middle should include all the cleaning and disinfecting supplies. The bottom is the most difficult to reach. This section should only be used when you need to restock your supplies.
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HOW TO TAKE GOOD LASH PICTURES
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1.
BEFORE AND AFTER
2.
FULL FACE SHOT
3.
SINGLE EYESHOT
HOW TO MAKE YOUR LASH BUSINESS STAND OUT ON SOCIAL MEDIA
1. Post Before And After Photos Of Your Lash Work 2. Make Your Content More Interesting 3. Engage In Conversation 4. Don't Forget To Use Hashtags
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BEST APPLICATIONS TO USE TO GROW YOUR INSTAGRAM
Sharing with you the best apps that I use to grow my Instagram account.
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