Bear Meadow Lodge: Bonna L. Nelson

Bear Meadow Lodge

Gateway to Pennsylvania’s Grand Canyon by Bonna L. Nelson

While basking in the glow of a gorgeous golden sunset, we spotted a few white-tailed deer dining where the wildflower meadow meets the woods. We were pleasantly enveloped by the soothing water swirling in the hot tub on our private balcony overlooking meadows, woods and mountains. It was the last night of our four-night stay at the romantic Bear Meadow Lodge in Wellsboro, Tioga County, Pennsylvania. The hot tub and champagne seemed like the loveliest way to conclude our pleasant adventure surrounded by panoramic view of the Wilds of Pennsylvania in Grand Canyon Country. In a thank-you note to Jim Meade, the friendly and welcoming owner/ innkeeper, and Amanda, the host of Bear Meadow Lodge, I wrote, “We would love to return…just to relax at the lodge and not do any touring…it is just so beautiful, romantic, peaceful, charming and atmospheric.”

One of three bed and breakfasts in the Bear Lodges domain, Bear Meadow is a rustic-looking but modern log structure with a private deck for each of its four rooms.

Upon opening the door to “Headwaters,” our cozy and enchanting room, we were warmly greeted by a welcome sign, soft music, a glowing fire in the fireplace, flickering candles and a basket of freshly baked muffins. A king size bed, handmade with local cherry wood, was draped

with inviting blankets and quilt. The room included a comfortable, cushy sofa and chair for lounging and two dressers. With a small closet, there were more than enough places to stash belongings for our stay of more than a week.

The walls are adorned with nature-themed art and the fireplace has an authentic barn-board surround. There is also a very quiet, yet effective, HVAC system, a welcome change from the hotels/motels whose noisy systems usually keep me awake. The icing on the cake is a roomy private bathroom with plush bathrobes, soft, thick towels, a large shower and two sinks. Or is the deck with a hot tub, rocking chairs, tables and umbrellas the icing on the cake?

The mini refrigerator is restocked daily with juices, teas, sports drinks and yogurt, and the aforementioned basket of muffins also included granola bars and fresh fruit replenished daily. A Keurig coffee maker was accompanied by a variety of coffees and teas. Even my favorite, cappuccino, was ~ you guessed it ~ restocked daily.

The hallway has a shared microwave, an icemaker and a self-serve gift shop with Lodge memorabilia such as nice Ts, hoodies, mugs, coasters and handmade items. We had free WiFi and were even gifted a jute picnic bag with the Lodge insignia on it, handmade glycerin soaps

in the shape of bears and “Wellsboro Dollars” that we used for meals and gifts in Wellsboro. They also offer a bike barn and ample parking, and we never crossed paths with other lodgers. Lest you think otherwise, the room rates are reasonable, and discounts are offered for longer stays.

I chatted more with Jim (a former biologist/ecologist with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service) on our last day when he graciously helped us to recharge a dead car battery. I complimented him on offering so many special and unique amenities for the comfort of guests. Jim smiled and said, “I like to think that we offer a destination experience for grownups…a premier getaway where you can enjoy privacy, quiet and the beautiful wilds of Pennsylvania’s Canyon Country.”

I wish we lived closer than the five-hour drive from Easton to the Lodges. I laughed and was jealous when Jim told us that locals book Lodge rooms when a snowstorm is coming and enjoy the hot tub while watching the beauty of the snow. He has been in business for over 16 years, and his guests keep returning year after year. We hope to return, too.

We reflected on our stay at Bear Meadows Lodge, our experiences in the well-appointed nearby town of Wellsboro and our adventures at the Pine Creek Gorge, better known as PA’s Grand Canyon, as we lounged in the warm, bubbling hot tub. Off the beaten path, the Lodge affords quiet rest but is just a few minutes to the town and the canyon.

Most of our friends, even those who grew up in PA (myself included, having spent three years of my youth there), have never heard of or been to the PA Grand Canyon (PGC). I hadn’t, either, but I tend to read and

research extensively to uncover new adventures to share with my family, friends and readers, and that is how I found it.

What is the PGC? What does it look like, and how did it come to be called the PA Grand Canyon?

The state calls the PGC the “Crown Jewel of Pennsylvania.” Others call it “the Little Grand Canyon.” Either way, it is a vast wilderness area of breathtaking beauty. We had read that it is one of the best places to see fall draping the diverse deciduous hardwood trees in multicolored displays of red, orange, yellow and purple. Our trip there was planned to observe autumn sharing its colorful gifts, and it did not disappoint.

One source revealed that PGC was named by a Tioga County history teacher who was also involved in the area’s tourism industry. I think it was a clever and creative idea. We need a Grand Canyon on the East Coast. They look nothing alike, but just for fun, I conducted some research on the PGC and the more familiar and famous Arizona Grand Canyon (AGC) for comparison purposes.

The PGC is 47 miles long and up to 1,500 feet deep in certain areas of the valley. The “real” Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, is 277 miles long and 6,000 feet deep. The PGC is 1 mile across at its widest, while the real deal is 18 miles across at its widest point.

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Bear Meadow Lodge by 165,000 acres of the Tioga State Forest near the charming town of

The PGC is, geographically, the Wellsboro. With a landscape of dazPine Creek Gorge, a glacial flood zling beauty, Alleghany Plateau is a water-carved canyon incised by scenic destination for many travelers Pine Creek, a tributary of the mighty from near and far. We met locals who Susquehanna River. The AGC, the visit regularly as well as travelers largest gorge in the world, is cut by from throughout the U.S. who enjoy the Colorado River. PGC is mostly the beautiful forest and valley vistas, forested, while the AGC is mostly spectacular waterfalls and outdoor arid, with raised plateaus, desert adventures. basins, and rocky, layered geologic There are many ways to enjoy features with a few forest areas. The PGC. Visitors come to walk, hike, PGC Pine Creek Gorge lies on the run or cycle on the many trails; Allegheny Plateau in north-central drive self-guided routes; visit local PA’s Tioga County. The Grand Can- PGC State Park facilities/outlooks; yon lies on the Colorado Plateau in boat; canoe; camp; kayak; raft; fish, northwestern Arizona. ride horseback and cross-country

Although the AGC may be bigger ski. We opted for an easy and fun, and more wondrous than the PGC, yet informational and unique, PGC we have been to both, and we think introduction via Ole Covered Wagon the PGC is well worth the visit. The Tours. heavily wooded PGC is surrounded One of the most popular attractions in the Canyon is the 63.4-mile Pine Creek Rail Trail, a converted 100-year-old railroad bed that travels along Pine Creek Gorge at the bottom of the canyon. The trail was rated one of the “10 great places to take a bike tour” in the world because of its gentle, flat grade. It is also enjoyable for walking, running and hiking. Ole Covered Wagon Tours, a family- owned and operated business for the past 26 years, offers visitors a two-hour horse-drawn wagon ride on a portion of the trail. The unique narrated experience included learning about the history (dating from

Bear Meadow Lodge side Pine Creek, we were accompanied by the sound of rippling water the 19th c.), geography and natural and birds singing as the horses, and man-made sites along the trail Rosie Posie and Percheron, moved as well as the flora and fauna. slowly and regally forward. Being

Made especially for the Pine Creek at the bottom of the PGC, we could Rail Trail, the handcrafted covered look up at the cliffs of the Allegheny wagons have comfortable cushioned Plateau and see outstanding fall seats and open sides for viewing. colors adorning the trees. They are pulled by beautiful, pow- We passed bikers, hikers and erful and well-trained Belgian draft horseback riders, dramatic rock outhorses. The tour guide, Donna, was crops, diverse plant life, a few wild both knowledgeable and humorous, flowers, scattered old growth timber, a good mix. Before the tour started, historic pine and spruce areas as she attempted to get to know the tour and several foundations from the group and shared that we had new- Civilian Conservation Corps era. We lyweds on board, as well as people traveled in the footsteps of Woodcelebrating birthdays and anniver- land and Seneca Native Americans, saries and folks from many states. European settlers, loggers, railroad-

I can understand why Ole Covered ers and now outdoors enthusiasts Wagon Tours has a 4.5* rating on enjoying the natural beauty at the Trip Advisor. While traveling along- bottom of the gorge with its rugged shorelines and swift-moving waters. Our next adventure at PGC was at the top of the gorge at the Leonard Harrison State Park (LHSP). Of course, while we were there, we had to see the top as well as the bottom. Encompassing 585 acres on the east rim of PCG, the park includes modern facilities, a visitor center and scenic views of the deep canyon.

Bear Meadow Lodge spoke in hushed tones as if in a holy place, and it really was in a way, one Additionally, LHSP offers camping, of nature’s holy places! picnicking, hiking, rest-rooms and Prior to walking out to the overeven a gift shop and refreshments. looks, we stopped at the visitor

The park’s overlooks, with trails center to watch a video about the leading to the bottom, offer the best park. The walls of the room and views of the gorge in both directions dioramas displayed animal and and the full fall spectrum of colors. bird mounts representative of those Red maples, red oaks, black cherry, found in the forested area: bear, sumacs and sassafras trees deco- bobcat, porcupine, vulture, turkey, rate the gorge’s hills and valley in owl, osprey and rattlesnake. Each various shades of red. Sugar maples, exhibit included information about hickories, sycamores, aspens, tulip the critter. The video reviewed the poplars, birches and black walnuts history and features of the LHSP, display a range of yellows. White and we learned that the area received oaks, black oaks and beeches lend the well-deserved designation as a tones of brown. Pockets of evergreen National Natural Landmark by the trees provide spots of green through- National Park Service in 1968. out the year. In between adventures at the

We walked to the terrace overlook PGC, we visited the quaint town of and verified the accounts of spectac- Wellsboro to browse, shop and dine ular views from that vantage point. surrounded by Victorian charm. Just We observed dramatic rock outcrops, ten miles from the PGC and a few brilliant forests and an abundance minutes from Bear Meadow Lodge, of wildflowers hovering on the steep the wide, pristine main street was walls, 800 feet deep in this area, lined with old fashioned wrought overlooking the Pine Creek rapids. iron gaslights, brilliantly colored Friendly park rangers and visitors trees and inviting benches. For fall, Wellsboro, the Tioga County seat, was gaily decorated with cornstalks, scarecrows, straw bales, pumpkins and mums, as were the surrounding picturesque and stately homes. The vibrant 200-year-old town offers numerous shops, many family owned, a village green and the Arcadia, a theater for performing arts. We enjoyed delicious meals at restaurants offering everything from