Tidewater Times November 2023 by Tidewater Times

Tidewater Times

November 2023

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Vol. 72, No. 6

Published Monthly

November 2023

Features: About the Cover Artist: Nancy Tankersley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Publisher's Note - Welcome Emily Claire Ronning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Maryland's Civil War: Helen Chappell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Water's Edge and Bellevue Passage Museums: Bonna L. Nelson . . . . . . 25 Shore Lit - Creating a Literary Community: Michael Valliant . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 A Fusion of Flavor with Alfredo Fernandez: Tracey F. Johns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Tidewater Gardening K. Marc Teffeau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Yikes!: A.M. Foley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Tidewater Kitchen: Pamela Meredith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Rebecca T. Ruark Reborn: James Dawson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 All Quiet on the Sound (chapter 3): B. P. Gallagher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Changes - Flashing Lights in the Rearview Mirror: Roger Vaughan . . . 163

Departments: November Tide Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Easton Map and History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Caroline County . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Queen Anne's County . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Dorchester Map and History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 St. Michaels Map and History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Oxford Map and History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Anne B. Farwell & John D. Farwell, Co-Publishers Editor: Jodie Littleton Proofing: Kippy Requardt Deliveries: Nancy Smith, Brandon Coleman and Bob Swann P. O. Box 1141, Easton, Maryland 21601 410-714-9389 www.tidewatertimes.com info@tidewatertimes.com

Tidewater Times is published monthly by Bailey-Farwell, LLC. Advertising rates upon request. Subscription price is $40 per year. Individual copies are $4. Contents of this publication may not be reproduced in part or whole without prior approval of the publisher. Printed by Delmarva Printing, Inc. The publisher does not assume any liability for errors and/or omissions.

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About the Cover Artist Nancy Tankersley Nancy Tankersley began her career as a portraitist but entered the gallery scene with figurative paintings of people at work and at leisure. The working watermen of the Chesapeake Bay provide a perfect of blend of humans at work in a gorgeous landscape, and have provided the artist with rich subject matter for the past decade. Active in the current plein air movement, and a founder of Plein Air Easton, she travels worldwide participating in competitions, judging and teaching. In 2024 she will be Awards Judge for the 20th Anniversary of Plein Air Easton. In September 2023 an extensive article about her career was published in the Living Masters feature in Fine Art Connoisseur Magazine. In 2019 Tankersley was the Featured Artist at the 49th Annual Waterfowl Exhibit and Festival. In 2016 and 2017 she was invited to exhibit at the prestigious Masters Exhibition at the Salmagundi Club in NYC. She will again be exhibiting in the Featured Artists Tent in the Pavilion at the Waterfowl Festival in Easton Nov. 10-12. In 2024 the artist will be teaching workshops at the Academy Art Museum, The Booth Museum of Western Art, and in Italy. A complete list of her many awards, memberships

No Need for Company, 36 x 36 oil, c. 2019, Private Collection. and teaching schedule can viewed on her website nancytankersley.com. The artist maintains a studio in Easton and welcomes visits by appointment. She is represented locally by Trippe Gallery. Text 410253-3641. This month’s cover painting is titled Silver Morning. 7

Publishers’ Note:

New Arrival! It is with much love and pride that John and I announce the arrival of our newest granddaughter, Emily Claire Ronning. She made her very early arrival on Friday, October 13 at 9:05 p.m. Although this was 2 months earlier than we had expected her, she has had no complications and was breathing on her own at birth.

Our little mighty mini weighs 2 lbs. 11.7 ounces and is 15 inches long. Momma, Daddy, Emily and big sisters Faye and Alice are all doing very well. We want to thank everyone for all the prayers as they were truly answered! ~ MoMo and Pop Farwell

Emily Claire Ronning 9

Maryland’s Civil War by Helen Chappell Almost 200 years later, people are still fascinated by the Civil War. Or, if you’re from the South, the War Between the States. In some places, people are still fighting it. Caught between North and South, with the District nestled between Maryland and Virginia, the Old Line State was trapped in a net. Local writer Paul W. Callahan has written a comprehensive book about that era, When Democracy Fell. With meticulous research and an instinct for detail, Callahan presents a broad view of a terrible time. The state itself was split between northern and southern sympathizers, and, seeing it as a threat to the Union, Lincoln and his people stripped Marylanders of their civil rights, arrested people on f limsy charges, suspended habeas corpus and occupied the state under martial law. If you were so much as suspected of being a southern sympathizer, you could be jailed and held for an indefinite period of time. No trial. Just say something or sign the wrong proclamation, and bang! You’re in jail at Fort Lafayette! There was some good reason

for Lincoln’s concern: Maryland was pretty much run by men with money or land or power or all of these, and many of them were enslavers. Geographically, it was a perfect target for the Confederacy. Take over Maryland and you own the capital of the United States. Baltimore, always a tough town, had riot after riot, and Lincoln was so unpopular in Charm City that he rode in a train incognito on his way to Washington from 11

Maryland's Civil War

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Springfield while Mary Todd Lincoln and their boys rode ahead in the official train. There was genuine concern that the president might be assassinated by southern sympathizers. Very soon, the political maneuvering was so Machiavellian that Union troops began to occupy the state and martial law was established. Although lower Delaware really should be beneath the Smith and Wesson Line, as we call it, occupying troops from that state were sent here to establish what passed for law and order. Democracy, even though it extended only to white men, was suspended. Women, free African Americans and those three-fifths of a person enslaved did not, of course, get a vote, even

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Maryland's Civil War

Tilghman, scion of Washington’s aide-de-camp, was arrested on very thin accusations. Anyone could be picked up and jailed without trial on f limsy reasons. You can see why this all happened, if not the justice of it. The country was literally falling apart. As a child on Ross Neck, I remember hearing a very old lady tell me that her mother remembered the platoon of blue-coated Union soldiers bivouacked in their family’s outbuildings. Judging by their blue shirts, she was young enough to think they were Amish. She said they dragged the parlor table out of the house and used it to play endless card games. Then as now, there wasn’t much happening down to The Necks. From other people I’ve heard tales of those who wanted to escape the Union draft by hiding out in caves along the high banks and deep in the marshy islands. In an abandoned cemetery on

though they were caught up in the same absolutist net. Callahan’s research into this frightening period—which, according to his writing, resembles something very close to totalitarianism—is enthusiastic and comprehensive. He even quotes the papers of the day, whether they be honest journalism or yellow sensationalism. They give the reader a very good view of the media of the time, as does his capture of the actors in this tangled mess. A judge who signed the wrong thing was literally beaten and dragged out of the Talbot County Courthouse by Union troops. Tench

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Maryland's Civil War

line, like Wellington’s gentlemen at Waterloo.

our farm, there were tombstones side by side. One brother fought for the Union. The other fought for the Confederacy. That sums up the Civil War for me. My father, however, was a Civil War maven. A native of North Carolina who went to med school at the University of Pennsylvania, he just couldn’t get enough of the War Between the States. Most of my memories picture him at the kitchen table with Douglas Southall Freeman or Bruce Catton or some other famous Civil War historian in front of him. His grandfather was drafted into the Confederate army. We were too poor to be enslavers, but North Carolina dirt farmers made up most of the cannon fodder, while the rich boys from the big plantations rode off with their hand-tailored uniforms, enslaved manservants and a string of horses. I imagine most of them did their fighting at the back of the

My great-grandfather lost his leg at Pickett’s Charge, spent the rest of the war as a P.O.W. at Pea Patch Island and made his way home on one leg and a crutch. None of which makes me sympathetic to the Confederacy, mind you. But it did invest my father with a love of history he passed on to me. I just like a different era. One of the reasons I enjoyed When Democracy Fell was knowing how my father would have enjoyed it, too, and would have proudly added it to his collection. We spent so much family time visiting various battlefields and landmarks that it’s woven into my past. If you’re a Civil War buff, love 20

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Maryland's Civil War

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Water’s Edge and Bellevue Passage Museums A Revealing Journey of Discovery Part I by Bonna L. Nelson Through the Water’s Edge Museum, Maryland is host to the Nation’s first museum to acknowledge and honor the Founding Black Families of America. Our core mission is to celebrate how people of color on the Eastern Shore lived and how their lives mattered. We seek to empower today’s young people to find their place in history and identify their own positive and unique voices when facing contemporary issues and challenges. Where can you go to see exquisite art depicting founding Black families of Maryland? Where can you go to

see the remarkable UNESCO Middle Passage Marker commemorating international slave trade on the

Journey of Discovery Chesapeake Bay? Where can you go to see a viable and historic Black Eastern Shore community? Where can you go to learn about the history of African Americans on the Eastern Shore from their stories and perspectives? Where can you go to learn about the contributions made by African slaves and freemen and Black watermen, sailmakers, craftsmen, entrepreneurs, businessmen, musicians, artists, farmers, educators, medical professionals, military officers, homemakers and families? We are fortunate to be able to visit and learn about this significant cult ure and communit y—Mar y-

land’s Black Founding Families—at the Water’s Edge Museum (WEM) in Oxford, Md. We are humbled to read the UNESCO Middle Passage Marker erected in front of the WEM. And we are grateful to learn about the history of an impactful Black maritime community across the Tred Avon River from Oxford in the town of Bellevue and about the

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Journey of Discovery

of a major American culture and a primary entity in American history. At Tidewater Times, we traditionally present stories about local nonprofit organizations during the holiday season to inform our readers about their mission and accomplishments. We hope that our readers will then be inclined to support the organizations in the spirit of the season. For this month of Thanksgiving and next month of multiple religious celebrations, we present the Water’s Edge and Bellevue Passage Museums: their missions, histories, programs and plans. We hope you will be inspired to help them achieve their goals. The sister organizations also hope that you will visit, explore the properties, learn from their websites, attend their programs and events, volunteer, intern, donate pertinent documents and artifacts and make monetary contributions. You might be wondering how I learned about these museums. I want to take you on my journey of discovery. I think it will help you understand the mission, depth and complexities of these two entities. Over the past few years, I have read many articles in local, regional and state publications about the WEM/BPM projects and missions, and I wanted to know more. The more I learned, the more passionate I became about sharing the story with family, friends and Tidewater Times readers. One weekend, our granddaugh-

soon-to-be-opened Bellevue Passage Museum (BPM).

For far too long, the history and contributions of African Americans to our countr y have not been in the forefront of our consciousness, awareness and education. Fortunately, individuals and groups all over the country are now working to change that. African American history, archaeology, culture, art, music, stories, artifacts and accomplishments are being studied, rediscovered, documented, exhibited, preserved and digitized. Here on the Eastern Shore, we are in a monumenta l per iod in that multiple individuals, groups, educational institutions, nonprofits and local, county, state and federal government entities are jointly taking action. They are working in partnership to encourage a renaissance of sorts to right the oversight and neglect of African American history by documenting and revealing the importance, strength and heritage 28

Journey of Discovery

fundraiser. I mentioned my interest in learning more and writing about the WEM/BPM, and Mary was delighted and encouraging. She and her husband, Dr. Dennis De Shields, a fourth-generation Bellevue native, cofounders of the BPM. Along with Dr. Dennis’s father, Col. William DeShields, they are also on the WEM Advisory Board Committee. There was much to learn from them about these important organizations. Continuing my quest for information, I attended a presentation a few months ago at the Talbot County Free Library in Easton by Monica Davis and an associate. Ms. Davis is the brilliant and knowledgeable new executive director of the Water’s

ter, Bella, of African American and Caucasian heritage, was coming for a visit. I thought that taking her to the WEM would be a wonderful educational opportunity for her as well as for my husband, John, and me. It was a continuation of our visit with Bella to the Banneker-Douglass Museum in Annapolis. Both museums celebrate African American history, culture, accomplishments, art and beauty. It was a joyful and insightful learning experience. After our inspiring and thoughtprovoking WEM visit, I had a chance meeting with Dr. Mary De Shields, my friend and oncologist, at a local

Journey of Discovery

sponsored event at the Avalon Theatre in Easton. The Juneteenth Celebration Concert by WEM’s Maryland Spirituals Initiative choral group, introduced by Ms. Davis, was a celebration of Black life on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. The intergenerational performers from local churches and singing groups joyfully sang beloved African American spirituals such as “Swing Low, Sweet Chariot” and “Oh Happy Day.”

Drs. Dennis and Mary DeShields are the Bellevue Passage Museum founders and are also on the WEM Advisory Board Committee. Edge and Bellevue Passage Museums. The lecture at the library was an informative illustrated talk about the current WEM exhibit, “Living in Hope: Ruth Starr Rose (1887–1965), African American Life on the Eastern Shore of Maryland.” I spoke to Monica afterward about my interest in learning more about the museum, and we agreed to meet. Rose’s stunning paintings, drawings and lithographs depict beautiful African American founding families and individuals and represent her interpretations of African American spirituals, Biblical passages and world-shaping events. A few weeks later, my husband and I attended another WEM/BPM-

Ruth Starr Rose paintings depicting the spirituals were displayed on a screen behind the choir. The audience sang and clapped w ith delight. It was uplifting and inspiring. Videos of concerts performed by the Maryland Spiritual Initiatives choral groups and individuals can be viewed on the WEM website. Next, John, Bella and I enjoyed watching the Maryland Public Television’s (MPT) documentary Water’s Edge: Black Watermen of the Chesapeake. The video was shown during MPT’s special Chesapeake Week series. Ms. Davis, Dr. Dennis, Black watermen and waterwomen, 32

Journey of Discovery

men’s community and their businesses of harvesting, packing and processing seafood. Their skills and dedication to the seafood industry created a level of prosperity for the town. I highly recommend viewing the hour-long documentary on PBS Passport or YouTube. I have watched it twice. During the summer, Ms. Davis and Dr. DeShields invited me to a meeting in Bellevue/Royal Oak of the Maryland Commission on Environmental Justice and Sustainable Communities (CEJSC). Representatives from government, education, c om mu n it y a nd med ia a lso attended. The purpose of the meeting was to share plans for the new BPM and for reviving and protecting the

B el le v ue c om mu n it y memb er s (including the De Shields’ daughter Kat); Water’s Edge Museum staff and volunteers and many others share the stories of Bay seafood traditions from the Black waterman’s perspective, both past and present, in the informative and compelling documentary. The video chronicles the history, legacy, vision, work and continuing success of Black watermen and women a round t he Chesapea ke Bay. Some of the interviews were conducted at the WEM and the Col. De Shields Church in Royal Oak. We learned about the history and legacy of the Bellevue Black water-

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Journey of Discovery

seums and Bellevue and introduced principals. Washington College professors Michael Chiarappa and Janet Sheridan, along with multidisciplinary students in a Washington College summer fieldwork program, also presented. For the second year in a row, students studied and documented homes and other structures in Bellevue in addition to learning about the history of the area and individuals. They developed maps, histories and architectural drawings of the town. They wrote stories and poems and created art, and they presented their Bellevue work experience and projects to the audience. They also lived in Bellevue during their monthlong experience,

town of and homes in Bellevue and to request support. The CEJSC is a 20-member organization. Its goal is to ensure that everyone enjoys the same degree of protection from environmental and health hazards and equal access to the decision-making process to have a healthy environment in which to live and work. Phillip Logan, an architect with Preservation Green, LLC and for the WEM/BPM, joined Ms. Davis and Dr. De Shields in reviewing the plan for the BPM and the impact of a new housing development on Bellevue. Dr. Barbara Paca, founder of the WEM, also spoke about the mu-

Journey of Discovery

list additional related articles and references. I also revisited the WEM and the UNESCO Middle Passage Marker to absorb the significance of both. Last, but certainly not least, I met with the Drs. De Shields to chat about the museums and related projects and received additional information and assistance from Ms. Davis. With the initial journey of discovery behind us, we have a foundation and framework for exploring more about the long, frequently overlooked history of American Black families, citizens of African descent, as seen through the WEM/BPM and related projects and efforts. Let’s begin w ith a brief review of the founding of the WEM.

interviewed and made friends with the residents and documented their stories. More information on the Commission portion and the “Black Life in Bellevue Field School 2023” presentations can be found on the BPM website. Like any researcher and writer on a quest, I next scanned the extensive and well-designed WEM/BPM websites to increase my knowledge of t he si ster mu seu m s a nd t he Bellev ue renaissance. The sites include detailed information on the entities as well as photographs, art, books, music videos and, on the BPM site, an excellent podcast with Dr. De Shields. Other searches

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tectural features. The structure was created from two abandoned homes in an African American community in Oxford with the blessings of and input from neighbors. The WEM, in the words of Dr. Paca, “is recognized as the fi rst museum to honor the Founding Black Families of America…Our mission is purely educational.” The Water’s Edge Museum proudly presents Black farmers, professional sailmakers, military figures, musicians, watermen, and crab pick-

Dr. Barbara Paca, O.B.E., a worldrenowned landscape designer, art historian, collector, activist and academic, created the WEM and is also the curator and proprietor. The museum was established in February 2021 and resides in an award-winning LEED Gold building complex that also includes Paca’s and Phillip Logan’s home. The complex also houses Preservation Green, LLC, a sustainable architecture and landscape design fi rm, and a research center and greenhouse. It makes use of solar-paneled and green roofs along with other sustainable archi-

Journey of Discovery

Water’s Edge Museum 101 Mill Street Oxford, MD 21654 410-226-1227 watersedgemuseum.org

ers. These Founding Black Families of America harnessed knowledge and power, and placed it fi rmly and confidently into the hands of their descendants. Continue with me on a journey of discovery to learn more about the WEM’s exhibits, musical initiatives, educational components, accomplishments and plans, as well as the Middle Passage Marker, the BPM and Bellevue village plans and goals in our next issue. Meanwhile, visit, volunteer, contribute artifacts and art and donate to the WEM/BPM. WEM hours are Thursday to Saturday, 11 a.m.–3 p.m. or by appointment.

Bellevue Passage Museum bellevuepassagemuseum.org Monica Davis, Executive Director

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TIDE TABLE

OXFORD, MD 1. Wed. 2. Thurs. 3. Fri. 4. Sat. 5. Sun. 6. Mon. 7. Tues. 8. Wed. 9. Thurs. 10. Fri. 11. Sat. 12. Sun. 13. Mon. 14. Tues. 15. Wed. 16. Thurs. 17. Fri. 18. Sat. 19. Sun. 20. Mon. 21. Tues. 22. Wed. 23. Thurs. 24. Fri. 25. Sat. 26. Sun. 27. Mon. 28. Tues. 29. Wed. 30. Thurs.

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7:25 8:15 9:08 10:04 9:59 10:51 11:36 12:10 1:02 1:47 2:27 3:04 3:41 4:19 5:01 5:47 6:38 7:35 8:35 9:35 10:34 11:29 12:17 1:16 2:09 2:59 3:46 4:31 5:15 6:00

LOW PM

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Shore Lit: Creating a Literary Community by Michael Valliant When Kerry Folan found Easton, it was the energy of the town, the culture, the landscape of the area that pulled her in. As a writer, a college English professor and a lover of literature, she also saw what she could bring to the community. Last year, through her organization Shore Lit, Kerry put on seven author events and facilitated three book clubs and one pop-up book shop while serving as a connector for and between literary events all over the Eastern Shore. Shore Lit is shining a spotlight on literature, and people are taking note. “I wanted to live in a community that has a cultural center, and when I first visited Easton, I was so impressed by the wealth of opportunities,” Kerry said. “But with literature and writing being the center of my life, one thing that stood out to me as missing were adult literary events. That just didn’t exist here in any kind of consistent way. I started to realize I was in a unique position. I have connections to nationally and internationally recognized writers, and I could get them here.” Kerry grew up in Montgomery

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Shore Lit er and my father was a reader, so we had books all over our house,” she said. “We always had access to books—I think that was formative for me, seeing my parents read all the time—it was part of our family culture. Reading was something you made time for.” Kerry went on to be an English major at Dickinson College and then lived her adult life in cities working in arts, culture and fashion media in New York, Washington, D.C. and San Francisco. Though she loved the culture of cities, she had an idea that a small community might be a good fit for her. She reached a point in New York when she knew she either

had to spend her life there or make a break and get out. She went to graduate school at George Mason University and got her Master of Fine Arts in creative writing. She now teaches writing and literature at George Mason, on campus a few days a week Coming to Easton, the cultural scene was dynamic and diverse, built around The Avalon Theatre with music, the Academy Art Museum with visual and performing arts and so many organizations and people participating. Working with these organizations and others, Kerry founded Shore Lit to create and integrate literature into the arts scene. “To my mind, the thing that was missing were free events with relevant literary writers,” she said. “Sarah Jesse, the director of the Academy Art Museum, did this experimental program two summers ago where she invited members of the community who were not affiliated with the museum, who just lived in the community, to do a program. They gave us a budget and let

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Shore Lit

ined free black communities.” Between 80 and 100 people turned out for the first book talk. That showed there was an audience and an appetite for literary events. Shore Lit aims to enhance local cultural offerings with regular, free book talks open to the public. The events are designed to explore relevant ideas, foster literary conversation and build inclusive community. Kerry volunteers between 40 and 80 hours of her time into organizing an event. That effort is repaid when she sees how excited the community is for these programs. And for what is growing out of them. “From day one, it has been so gratifying because people have been excited,” she said. “My hope is to in-

us do what we wanted. So I thought, I want to bring writers here.” For her first program, Kerry brought in Rion Amilcar Scott, who writes short stories and imagines descendants of the first freed slaves and what they’re doing today. Each story is told from a different perspective of someone living in a Maryland town. “His work has been recognized everywhere, he has won so many awards,” Kerry said. “I paired him with Dale Green, the historic preservationist and architect who does work on the Hill, and also with the Starr Center at Washington College to talk about real and imag-

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Shore Lit

Lit events free of charge, so the financial support of donors and funders has been key. Shore Lit has received two recent grants: an Artistic Insights grant, hosted through Mid-Shore Community Foundation, and a creativity grant through the Maryland State Arts Council, which goes toward funding in the coming year. What’s the easiest way to get involved with Shore Lit? Visit the website, shorelit.org, and sign up for the monthly newsletter, which promotes upcoming programs from cultural organizations all over the Shore. “For me, the heart of Shore Lit is the newsletter,” Kerry said. “Not everyone can come to every Shore Lit event, but the newsletter is a

crease awareness of our programs this year. I would love to see local book clubs pick our books for their own discussions and then come together at our events for a larger conversation. I want to provide a forum for that. I think there’s potential for art and literature to be a way to talk about issues that are really important but are difficult for people. I would love to help facilitate those conversations in some way.” In addition to building a community for those who are already here, Shore Lit is putting the Eastern Shore on the map as a place writers want to come when they are writing or when they are resting. Kerry works hard to keep Shore

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Shore Lit

ers Fall Showcase (all genres) with Washington College Rose O’Neill Literary House and Salisbury University Creative Writing Program February 4, 2024: David George Haskell: Sounds Wild and Free (narrative nonfiction/nature writing) with Adkins Arboretum March 7, 2024: Andrew Leland: The Country of the Blind (creative nonfiction/memoir) with the Academy Art Museum

monthly reminder of all the interesting and varied events taking place in our area. I hope it inspires people to engage! Not just with our programs, but with all the great art and culture being shared in the area.” **** Upcoming events: November 5, 2023: 2023 Shore Lit Eastern Shore College Writ-

Michael Valliant is the Assistant for Adult Education and Newcomers Ministry at Christ Church Easton. He has worked for non-profit organizations throughout Talbot County, including the Oxford Community Center, Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and Academy Art Museum.

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A Fusion of Flavor with Alfredo Fernandez by Tracey F. Johns

The concept of the mythical city of El Dorado includes a feeling of reaching the holy grail, with the legend including Spaniards coming to America looking for gold. It’s also the inspiration behind the name for El Dorado Restaurant in Easton, where Chilean native and owner Alfredo Fernandez offers his own version of gold in a fusion of authentic

Latino-American flavors and the tastiest margaritas, pisco sours and sangrias you’ll find. Diners are greeted with a soulwarming, at-home feeling when they dine at El Dorado, located on Marlboro Avenue where old locals used to “roll the bowl” through town. That hospitality carries throughout the warmly lit spaces,

Fusion of Flavor with guests often greeted by name by Fernandez, and always with the aromas of Mexican, Chilean and Peruvian dishes being prepared in the kitchen. The restaurant’s welcoming ambiance is evident whether you’re eating at the bar and watching Fernandez squeeze hundreds of limes for margaritas every night or sitting at a table or booth enjoying one of El Dorado’s specialties, including fresh guacamole prepared tableside by your server, with plenty to share. There’s always a great selection of music playing softly in the background, with playlists that include Gordon Lightfoot, The Guess Who,

Sinatra, Dean Martin and more. Fernandez is passionate about all kinds of music, including opera,

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Fusion of Flavor

years and is a geographer by profession. He worked for a couple of years in the university’s Department of Statistics and Geography before moving into lighting and illumination technology at his uncle’s business. He stayed there for more than a decade before starting a company with a partner in the ’90s designing

songs of the ’60s and ’70s and especially American and Latin American folk music. Fernandez was born in Santiago, Chile, and raised with his siblings in Viña del Mar, which means “Vineyard of the Sea.” Located on the central region’s Pacific Coast, it is Chile’s fourth largest city. He grew up the oldest of six children, with his mom, Patricia, working at home—which included preparing delicious meals for the family of eight. His dad, Alfredo, worked for a large agricultural supply company. Fernandez studied at the Universidad Católica de Valparaíso for five

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Fusion of Flavor

short trip back to Chile, he moved here permanently—with limited English and a growing passion for bringing happiness to people through delicious food and libations. “I learned a lot about food and how to operate a kitchen,” Fernandez says, noting that his cooking skills were limited before starting to work here in restaurants. Soon, he was making his rounds in area restaurants such as Harrison’s Chesapeake House and Chesapeake Landing, where he mastered preparing plenty of seafood, crab cakes, crab imperial dishes and more. “I learned a lot about food from all the guys in the kitchen of Chesapeake House, and with Miss Betty White and Miss Lorraine ‘Rainy’ Tucker,” Fernandez says. “Buddy

and installing blinds, carpets and illuminated ceilings. During that time, Fernandez got married and helped raise four children, all now adults living internationally. Two of his sisters had moved to the United States, with one sister married to a native waterman on Tilghman Island. A fusion of serendipity this time, especially for the future loyal diners of El Dorado Restaurant. In 1999, Fernandez had separated from his wife and came to visit his sister and meet his brother-inlaw on Tilghman Island. He met many of the locals, including Chef Brian with Bay Hundred Restaurant. It wasn’t long before he started working for the restaurant. After a

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Fusion of Flavor Harrison and Miss Bobbie, Joe Spurry and Miss Nida were very good inf luences, too.” He says he bought a dictionary to learn English and practiced new words and phrases every day. “Before, I speak a little bit,” he says, “but when I came here living in Tilghman I picked it up with two options—speak English or speak English.” After 24 years of living in Talbot County, Fernandez says he now speaks more English than Spanish every day and has also picked up a little French—with the help of one daughter living in Montreal—and Italian.

Love also found its way back to Fernandez after he met his wife, Vivien—who is Peruvian—while both were attending a wedding of a mutual friend in Easton. They got married here in 2010 and currently live in Easton. Now, you’ll find nothing on his menu with crab, but you will find Old Bay in dishes like ceviche and shrimp. “It’s the best,” he says, noting that his wife loves to pick and eat steamed crabs. Alfredo took a break from restaurant work and opened a Latino store on Aurora Street with Vivien and her family, now known as Plaza Latina. From there, they got the inspiration to open their own restaurant in an adjacent building that was used for storage. Two

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Fusion of Flavor

days of silence and no business. It was tough, but the Latino store kept things af loat.” A reputation for great food and libations grew, and five years later El Dorado moved into its current location after outgrowing the original site’s very small kitchen and dining space. They also sold the Latino store. His current staff includes 17 people—all bilingual in English and Spanish—and Fernandez says he knows all their families. The restaurant can seat around 90 people, with room for large parties, takeout available and reservations made by phone. Fernandez says his top sellers include tacos, fajitas, guacamole and salmon prepared Chilean style. Other favorites include a selection of Peruvian food inf luenced by his wife and other dishes with origins in Honduras and Cuba. Fernandez is reluctant to miss a day at the restaurant, noting that his joy is found in interacting with people. He’s at the restaurant every day after 5 p.m., except Mondays when they are closed, and all day

years of renovations and permits later, El Dorado opened on September 19, 2010, on the corner of Dover and Aurora Streets, where Rude Burger now operates. Fernandez worked with a Mexican chef to develop his signature dishes, with modifications such as omitting the traditional use of pork lard and MSG in some recipes. “Mexican food includes a lot of chiles to make it hot. We don’t do that,” he says. “We use a lot of herbs like cilantro and parsley, Chilean recipes including our salmon dishes and Peruvian dishes for a real fusion of f lavor.” He says starting out wasn’t easy, but they never gave up hope. “In the beginning, it was difficult,” Fernandez says. “There were 68

on Friday and Saturday, his busiest days. He reached his personal best in margarita making—one lime squeeze and salt-rimmed glass at a time—of 238 margaritas for Cinco de Mayo 2023, most made after 5 p.m. An average Friday has him making 100 or so, he says, with good tequila making a big difference in his signature offering. He says he prefers short trips away over long vacations, as he is rooted in his love of going to the restaurant and interacting with his crew and his guests. “I’m very accustomed to this and very passionate about the restaurant, so I like to be close,” he says. “When too many days out, I feel uncomfortable.”

When asked what makes his business a longstanding success in Easton, Fernandez says he feels people know the food is fresh, authentic and homemade. All things this loyal diner can attest to. See El Dorado’s menu and learn more at eldoradoeastonmd.com. Tracey Johns has worked in communications, marketing and business management for more than 30 years, including nonprofit leadership. Tracey’s work is focused on public and constituent relations, along with communication strategies, positioning and brand development and project management.

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Easton Map and History The County Seat of Talbot Count y. Established around early religious settlements and a court of law, Histor ic Dow ntow n Easton is today a centerpiece of fine specialt y shops, business and cultural activ ities, unique restaurants, and architectural fascination. Treel i ne d s t r e e t s a r e graced with various per iod str uctures and remarkable home s , c a r e f u l l y preser ved or re stored. Because of its histor ic a l significance, historic Easton has earned distinction as the “C olon ia l C apitol of the Eastern Shore” and was honored as number eight in the book “The 100 Best Small Towns in America.” With a population of over 16,500, Easton offers the best of many worlds including access to large metropolitan areas like Baltimore, Annapolis, Washington, and Wilmington. For a walking tour and more history visit https:// tidewatertimes.com/travel-tourism/easton-maryland/. © John Norton

Caroline County – A Perspective Caroline County is the very definition of a rural community. For more than 300 years, the county’s economy has been based on “market” agriculture. Caroline County was created in 1773 from Dorchester and Queen Anne’s counties. The county was named for Lady Caroline Eden, the wife of Maryland’s last colonial governor, Robert Eden (1741-1784). Denton, the county seat, was situated on a point between two ferry boat landings. Much of the business district in Denton was wiped out by the fire of 1863. Following the Civil War, Denton’s location about fifty miles up the Choptank River from the Chesapeake Bay enabled it to become an important shipping point for agricultural products. Denton became a regular port-ofcall for Baltimore-based steamer lines in the latter half of the 19th century. Preston was the site of three Underground Railroad stations during the 1840s and 1850s. One of those stations was operated by Harriet Tubman’s parents, Benjamin and Harriet Ross. When Tubman’s parents were exposed by a traitor, she smuggled them to safety in Wilmington, Delaware. Linchester Mill, just east of Preston, can be traced back to 1681, and possibly as early as 1670. The mill is the last of 26 water-powered mills to operate in Caroline County and is currently being restored. The long-term goals include rebuilding the millpond, rehabilitating the mill equipment, restoring the miller’s dwelling, and opening the historic mill on a scheduled basis. Federalsburg is located on Marshyhope Creek in the southern-most part of Caroline County. Agriculture is still a major portion of the industry in the area; however, Federalsburg is rapidly being discovered and there is a noticeable influx of people, expansion and development. Ridgely has found a niche as the “Strawberry Capital of the World.” The present streetscape, lined with stately Victorian homes, reflects the transient prosperity during the countywide canning boom (1895-1919). Hanover Foods, formerly an enterprise of Saulsbury Bros. Inc., for more than 100 years, is the last of more than 250 food processors that once operated in the Caroline County region. Points of interest in Caroline County include the Museum of Rural Life in Denton, Adkins Arboretum near Ridgely, and the Mason-Dixon Crown Stone in Marydel. To contact the Caroline County Office of Tourism, call 410-479-0655 or visit their website at www.tourcaroline.com. 75

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Queen Anne’s County The history of Queen Anne’s County dates back to the earliest Colonial settlements in Maryland. Small hamlets began appearing in the northern portion of the county in the 1600s. Early communities grew up around transportation routes, the rivers and streams, and then roads and eventually railroads. Small towns were centers of economic and social activity and evolved over the years from thriving centers of tobacco trade to communities boosted by the railroad boom. Queenstown was the original county seat when Queen Anne’s County was created in 1706, but that designation was passed on to Centreville in 1782. It’s location was important during the 18th century, because it is near a creek that, during that time, could be navigated by tradesmen. A hub for shipping and receiving, Queenstown was attacked by English troops during the War of 1812. Construction of the Federal-style courthouse in Centreville began in 1791 and is the oldest courthouse in continuous use in the state of Maryland. Today, Centreville is the largest town in Queen Anne’s County. With its relaxed lifestyle and tree-lined streets, it is a classic example of small town America. The Stevensville Historic District, also known as Historic Stevensville, is a national historic district in downtown Stevensville, Queen Anne’s County. It contains roughly 100 historic structures, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is located primarily along East Main Street, a portion of Love Point Road, and a former section of Cockey Lane. The Chesapeake Heritage and Visitor Center in Chester at Kent Narrows provides and overview of the Chesapeake region’s heritage, resources and culture. The Chesapeake Heritage and Visitor Center serves as Queen Anne’s County’s official welcome center. Queen Anne’s County is also home to the Chesapeake Bay Environmental Center (formerly Horsehead Wetland Center), located in Grasonville. The CBEC is a 500-acre preserve just 15 minutes from the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Over 200 species of birds have been recorded in the area. Embraced by miles of scenic Chesapeake Bay waterways and graced with acres of pastoral rural landscape, Queen Anne’s County offers a relaxing environment for visitors and locals alike. For more information about Queen Anne’s County, visit www.qac.org. 77

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Dorchester Map and History

Dorchester County is known as the Heart of the Chesapeake. It is rich in Chesapeake Bay history, folklore and tradition. With 1,700 miles of shoreline (more than any other Maryland county), marshlands, working boats, quaint waterfront towns and villages among fertile farm fields – much still exists of what is the authentic Eastern Shore landscape and traditional way of life along the Chesapeake. For more information about Dorchester County visit https://tidewatertimes.com/travel-tourism/dorchester/. 81

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TIDEWATER GARDENING

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getting ready for winter, but this is not the time for us gardeners to slack off! Early November is a good time to finish cleaning up leftover dead and diseased plants in the vegetable garden. Many garden pests, both insects and diseases, overwinter in the top layer of soil or plant debris.

Tidewater Gardening

reduces the amounts of insecticide and fungicide that you might otherwise have to spray in the garden next year. Cleaning up the vegetable garden and fruit plantings removes disease and fungus spores, overwintering eggs and adults that hibernate. The practice of leaving some dead plant stalks, branches and leaves in a portion of your garden or backyard has merit. These natural materials provide winter shelter for pollinators, butterf lies, moths and other arthropods that are essential in the environment. I leave the seed stalks of black-eyed Susans and conef lowers planted in the backyard because they are an excellent source of seed for goldfinches. Of course, common sense

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winter. After digging the bulbs and tubers, carefully remove the loose soil from the roots, cut the foliage back to just above the bulb and spread the bulbs out to cure in a dry area for one to three weeks.

needs to be employed in deciding whether to clean up the landscape completely or leave some plant debris. There are places where you may have to do a thorough cleanup. I live in an HOA-controlled housing development that frowns on leaves left on the lawn and “unkempt” f lower beds. Unfortunately, a nastygram from the HOA office and a threatened fine limit my options. But if you do not have restrictions, leaving overwintering plant material in the f lowerbeds is an ecological option. Now is the time to dig up warmseason bulbous and tuberous plants. Cannas, caladiums, dahlias, gladiolus and tuberous begonias can be stored indoors for the

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With a little bit of attention, you can keep those mums as perennials in the landscape and easily propagate them.

For cannas and dahlia tubers, keep a 4- to-6-inch stem. You can store bulbs in paper or mesh bags, cardboard boxes or nylon stockings. I like to use the mesh bags that those little mandarin oranges come in from the grocery store. Cover or layer the bulbs with peat moss, perlite, vermiculite or shredded newspaper. Store in a cool (40–50 degrees), dry place and check periodically for shriveling or decay. Mice like to get into them, so consider mouse-proofing the container. Speaking of caladiums, you may have noticed very limited quantities of these bulbs and planters available at garden centers this past gardening season. This is the result of a severe spring drought and Hurricane Ian in the caladium bulb-growing area of Lake Placid, Fla., in 2022. There were some industry estimates of over 80% crop failure that year. It will take several years for growers to recover from this loss. Caladium bulbs may also be in short supply in 2024— another reason to overwinter your caladium bulbs correctly. Some gardeners consider planting fall-f lowering chrysanthemums just for seasonal display. When they finish f lowering, they are pulled up and thrown away, which is unfortunate considering the costs of plant materials now.

When chrysanthemums are through f lowering, remove the dead f lower stalks a few inches from the ground. This will encourage root development and make them send out vigorous sprouts in spring. Some of the mum plants may be lifted and heeled in to a cold frame. Plants for potting can be propagated from the side sprouts that form. Do you have spring-f lowering bulbs that you didn’t plant earlier in the year? September and October are the best months for plant-

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an even soil temperature over the winter and reduce soil heaving. When planting bulbs, make certain that you are planting them deep enough. Large bulbs should be planted at least 5–6 inches deep,

ing them. If you haven’t put all of them in the ground yet, there’s still time to plant. To promote good root growth, the bulbs must be planted while the soil is still warm. I would try to get them in the ground before Thanksgiving. Later than that, the bulbs might not have enough time to establish a good, large root system, which is essential for the absorption of water and nutrients necessary for the production of f lowers and leaves in spring. If you intend to plant bulbs, you will need to mulch the soil. The application of 3–4 inches of leaves, pine needles, straw or compost over the planting of bulbs will maintain

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Tidewater Gardening

easiest bulbs to force are small, early-f lowering types like snowdrops, Chiondoxa, Siberian squill and crocus. Of this group, the crocus is most commonly used. If you want to force tulips, try early-f lowering types like early singles, early doubles and the Emperors. Almost any daffodils and hyacinths force well. In making your selection, try to avoid using mixtures of more than one kind in the same pot. Each variety is slightly different, and you may end up with uneven blooming.

while small bulbs should be planted at a depth of 3–4 inches. Some gardeners complain about the decline in f lowering of tulip and daffodil beds over time. One reason is that the bulbs were planted too close to the soil surface. As a result, energy is devoted to bulb production rather than f lower production, so f lowers get smaller and smaller. Another reason is that the bulbs originally planted have reproduced, creating many new and crowded bulbs. Every few years, you have to thin out the bulbs and replant.

When you force bulbs, use a good, well-drained artificial potting mixture. Avoid using garden soil, as it will contain diseases. The pot size will depend on the size of the bulbs and how many you plan to plant per pot. Space the bulbs around the inside of the rim so they are almost touching each other. Then place one bulb in the center of the pot. Cover them with soil until their tips are showing. Once the bulbs have been planted, keep the soil continually moist

If you have some leftover bulbs from fall planting and desire a spring f lower bulb display in late January or early February, try forcing some bulbs indoors to get a jump on spring. Bulb forcing is easy if you follow a few simple steps. First, select only large bulbs for forcing because it takes extra vigor to produce f lowers indoors. You will also have better results with early bloomers. Some of the 90

a covered Styrofoam cooler in the garage or a shaded spot outdoors. Sometime in mid-January, bring pots of bulbs indoors for forcing. Place them in a south-facing window. After the first initial watering, keep the soil on the dry side until you begin to see leaves emerging. If pale yellow leaves have already begun to sprout, expose the bulbs to low light until the tops turn green, about two or three days, then move the pot to a sunny windowsill. Flowers and leaves will shoot up rapidly. Keep bulbs in a cool room for the first few weeks of the forcing period. They can then be moved to a warmer room for quicker flowering. Besides planting spring bulbs, there are several more garden-

and place the pot where it will get cool temperatures without freezing. This part of the forcing process will take 8–12 weeks. At this time of year, an unheated garage, a shed or the crawl space under the house would be a good place to keep the pot. Cover the pot with hardware cloth to keep out the mice. When the weather turns colder and there is a danger of bulbs freezing outside, move them to a cool part of your house. An alternative method is to set the pot of bulbs in the ground and then cover it with straw or leaves. Weigh this vegetative cover down with boards to keep it from blowing away. If neither of these approaches works for you, try placing the pot in

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midwinter, water again at that time. This is especially important if our winter is fairly dry. Make sure that you are not overwatering, which can be as problematic as not watering at all. If your soil is well drained, there should be no problem and no need to worry. But if your soil is heavy clay, like lots of soil types in Talbot County, make certain that water is not standing around the plants after you have finished watering. Happy Gardening!

ing activities to be done in the yard before winter finally sets in. Water broad-leafed evergreens and conifers thoroughly before the soil freezes. These plants continue to transpire water through their leaves and needles during the winter months. Without an adequate supply of soil water below the frost line, they will dry out. If the soil is not frozen in

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On the broad Miles River, with its picturesque tree-lined streets and beautiful harbor, St. Michaels has been a haven for boats plying the Chesapeake and its inlets since the earliest days. Here, some of the handsomest models of the Bay craft, such as canoes, bugeyes, pungys and some famous Baltimore Clippers, were designed and built. The Church, named “St. Michael’s,” was the first building erected (about 1677) and around it clustered the town that took its name. For a walking tour and more history of the St. Michaels area visit https://tidewatertimes.com/travel-tourism/st-michaels-maryland/. 95

Yikes!

by A.M. Foley A bridge is coming! A bridge is coming! Alarm spreads periodically that another Chesapeake Bay span may land near home. The anxiety such proposals ignite is exceeded only by the intense panic bridge-phobics suffer in crossing the current spans. It was not always so. Before the real-life, adverse consequences of a bridge became a reality in 1952, the idea of unfettered unity between eastern and western shores seemed decidedly desirable. Now, not so much. With bridge ideas kicking around since the 1880s, there was time to thoroughly consider unintended consequences.

Historically, most Eastern Shore businessmen and products sailed to Baltimore. By 1880, railroads had spread down the eastern peninsula. Philadelphia and Wilmington merchants began competing for goods once monopolized in-state, from hat feathers to soft crabs. Then came the internal combustion engine, carrying commerce northward over improving roads. In 1908, the Baltimore Merchants and Manufacturers Association weighed the possibility of private business interests constructing a bridge to carry a trolley line across the Bay to Tolchester and beyond. Through the end of World War I,

Yikes! visionaries pondered various alternatives. By 1919, the bridge dream had expanded into a double-decker span, carrying both railroad and trolley tracks. In ensuing decades, assorted proposals morphed from private ventures into studies involving state and federal funding. All that while, steamboats proliferated, replacing weather-dependent packets with reliable transportation, most scheduled from Baltimore to innumerable ports around the Bay. The cross-Bay ferry between Annapolis and Claiborne carried passengers on an enjoyable 23-mile, two-hour cruise. Former

excursionists shared fond memories of those crossings, whether they sought to escape a torrid city summer or the quietude of Eastern Shore isolation. Completion of the two-lane William Preston Lane, Jr. Memorial Bridge in 1952 doomed these idyllic mini-cruises. Few rhapsodize about cross-

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ing the Bay by bridge. Travel and Leisure Magazine rates our Bay Bridge in the Top Ten of the World’s Scariest Bridges. In recent years, it has climbed from ninth to eighth place, perhaps because of summertime “contra-f low” traffic. Five of the seven spans that induce higher anxiety are foot bridges, two of those Alpine. Scarier vehicle-carrying bridges are both American: across the Arkansas River in Colo-

rado (#2) and Michigan’s Mackinac, connecting Upper and Lower peninsulas (#6). Michigan’s five-mile Mackinac Bridge edged ours out as the longest continuous over-water steel structure in the world. The Mackinac Bridge Authority may host a

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Oxford, Md

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Oxford Map and History

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Oxford is one of the oldest towns in Maryland. Although already settled for perhaps 20 years, Oxford Oxford Bellevue Ferry marks the year 1683 177 166 as its official founding, 155 nd Stra St. 144 for in that year Oxford The 133 was first named by n a 18 8 19 9 hm Tilg the Maryland General k e e Assembly as a seaport Cr 122 St. n and was laid out as a son il W 11 East town. In 1694, OxSt. lair St. t nc 10 e Si rk St. Ma ford and a new town Oxford 9 t. Park hS called Anne Arundel son Hig 8 Richard . St (now Annapolis) were n Divisio St. selected the only ports of entry for the entire i Town Rd. non . eek Cr e B Ave Maryland province. n 3 isio t. Until the American S Div W. 2 Revolution, Oxford 1 t. S ne enjoyed prominence roli 7 ad Ro Ca d 333 Oxfor To Easton as an international Pleasant Oxford St. Community shipping center surCenter Hbr. Robes t. 4 C rounded by wealthy E. Pier St. Pier St. tobacco plantations. Oxford Today, Oxford is a © John Norton 6 5 charming tree-lined and waterbound village with a population of just over 700 and is still important in boat building and yachting. It has a protected harbor for watermen who harvest oysters, crabs, clams and fish, and for sailors from all over the Bay. For a walking tour and more history visit https://tidewatertimes. com/travel-tourism/oxford-maryland/.

Yikes! scarier span but otherwise is more user-friendly. For a f lat $10 fee, Michigan provides panic-stricken travelers with a driver. Maryland’s Transportation Authority no longer offers this service. There’s no need for Marylanders to panic,

though. A private company, Kent Island Express, offers drivers to take the controls while the gephyrophobiac makes him- or herself as comfortable as possible for the crossing. The term gephyrophobia (Greek, bridge gephyra + fear) encompasses fear of both bridges and tunnels, which seems a bit broad. Unless, of course, you’re exiting Delmarva headed south. (With 24 hours’ notice, the Chesapeake Bay BridgeTunnel includes a driver in the toll.) Elsewhere, a more specific term is needed to pinpoint the assortment of torments that trigger sufferers’ panic attacks. Some fear heights in general, which the Bay Bridge provides in plenty. Others

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don’t mind the westbound span but are triggered eastbound, perhaps because it is one lane and ten feet narrower. Two phobic friends were discussing the pros and cons of the spans that separated them from being able to visit one another. The first said she got sweaty palms eastbound on the older span when the lanes reached the peak and overhead girders enclosed the roadway. “That makes me claustrophobic. Westbound doesn’t bother me. It’s open all the way. And I can stay in the middle lane and avoid straddling those noisy metal grates.” “No,” her friend contradicted. “When you’re eastbound, climbing up and up, if the girders weren’t

there at the top, you could just keep rising. They hold you down.” This second lady avails herself of a hired driver when headed in the troublesome direction. On the other hand, her friend felt the discussion sounded so silly that she could overcome her fear. She learned to keep her eyes on the leading edge on her car, where a hood ornament would once have been. Thus focused, with peripheral vision and repeated white-knuckled trips, she overcame her fear. Another who cured his own phobia was the late Willard Scott, beloved six-foot-three weatherman of NBC’s Today Show. Seemingly an unlikely candidate for panic attacks, Scott was a Washington,

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Yikes! D.C., disc jockey in 1952 when the original two-lane span opened. Shortly after, he created the Bozo the Clown Show on the local NBC affiliate. Personal appearances as Bozo at any of five local McDonald’s tied up traffic and required police for crowd control. (“There was something about the combination of hamburgers and Bozo that was irresistible to kids,” he once reminisced.) In real life, ebullient Bozo couldn’t handle a trip across the Bay. Willard once confessed how he drove down to the toll booth in the wee hours, when traffic was lightest. He took along a six-

pack of beer and drove back and forth over the bridge until it didn’t

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bother him anymore. Simple and effective, but Willard’s method is not available to today’s phobic for a host of reasons. Nor is it necessary. Drivers are available for hire around the clock. On the subject of phobic urbanites with McDonald’s connections: One middle-aged mental health professional had a different way of coping. She had failed to cure herself of her fear of crossing before purchasing Eastern Shore property. To reach her weekend getaway, she would drive Route 50 from the city to the McDonald’s shortly before the Bridge, then go in and scan tables for a potential driver. When she spotted a table with two or more beach-bound young men,

she’d offer $5 for someone to drive her car across. At first glance, that might seem a risky way to shave a few dollars off the commercial rate, but she always reached Kent Island safely. She traveled with a Great Dane named Bruce.

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Yikes! fears. Kent Island Express accommodates customers who chatter nervously or simply grit their teeth for the duration. Others lie covered up on the back seat or crouch under the dash. Two regular male customers routinely sit by the back seat on the f loor. Riding in the car trunk has been requested on occasion but is not permissible. Clients include even a few professional drivers of 18-wheelers. Uninitiated phobics often confuse the onset of their first panic attack with a heart attack. Having nowhere on the bridge to pull over, they opt to continue driving. Recovery comes upon reaching (or

simply sighting) dry land. After the first occurrence, in the words of Franklin Roosevelt, “fear of fear itself” takes over. The specter of having to stop on the bridge becomes a self less person’s demon. No altruist wants to stop and cause a jam of frustrated or equally panicky drivers. A clinical social worker with the Center for Travel Anxiety told Car and Driver magazine, “I’ve never had a narcissist come to me.” We all have our demons. Some actually fear f lying, while others simply fear airports or panic at the thought of leaving home. The Center for Travel Anxiety’s website cites a variety of phobias its psychotherapists have personally overcome, as well as services they

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November 2023 Calendar Oxford - Bellevue Ferry open 1st 2 weekends of November before closing for the season. Call 410-745-9023 for times. 11/2 - Canine Warrior Project with Meg Olmert - Oxford Community Center, 5:30 p.m. Meg is the author of Made for Each Other: The Biology of the Human-Animal Bond. She and the Warrior Canine Connection work to identify and pursue research opportunities that explore why training a service dog relieves symptoms of post-traumatic stress and traumatic brain injury. More info at https://oxfordcc.org/. 11/3-6 - Duck, Duck, Goose - Presenting Talbot County’s Decoys and Carvers - Oxford Museum exhibit; Fri.-Mon., 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Oxford Museum, 101 S. Morris St. More info at www.oxfordmuseummd.org/. 11/3-5 - ‘The Fantasticks’ presented by the Tred Avon Players at Oxford Community Center. More information and tickets at https://www.tredavonplayers.org/schedule. 11/4 - Cars and Coffee - Come out and enjoy cars, coffee, and camaraderie. Sponsored by Prestige Auto Vault. Oxford Community Center. Free; 8:30 -10:30. www.oxfordcc.org; 410-226-5409. 11/6 - SILK All-in-One Chalk Paint Demo - 5 to 6 p.m., $10. Limit of 6 participants. The Treasure Chest, 111 S. Morris St. For more info or sign up, go to www.treasurechestoxford.com or call 410-924-8817. 11/9 - Answering Alaska’s Call - Book Signing with Linda Fritz. Oxford Community Center, 5:30. Alaska’s first eye, ear, nose, and throat specialist arrived in 1940, intent on bringing modern medicine to the Alaska bushy. This memoir biography of Doc Fritz is a 20th century version of an age-old story - a hero’s quest into the unknown. More info at https://oxfordcc.org/. 11/10-12 - Duck, Duck, Goose - Presenting Talbot County’s Decoys and Carvers - Oxford Museum exhibit; Fri-Mon, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Oxford Museum, 101 S. Morris St. More info at www.oxfordmuseummd.org/. 11/11 - Model Boat Show - Regional builders show and sale, oyster bar, craft beer and spirits, kids mini boat races, Mystery Loves Company booksellers; free indoor and outdoor fun for the family; 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Oxford Community Center, https://oxfordcc.org/. 11/12 - Pancake Breakfast - Oxford Volunteer Fire Department, 8 to 11 a.m. 11/16 - Bring Your Own Piece Furniture Painting Class - $65, includes 4 oz. jar of paint. 5 to 8 p.m. Limit of 3 participants. The Treasure Chest, 111 S. Morris St. For more info or sign up, go to www.treasurechestoxford.com or call 410-924-8817. 11/24 - 26 - Special Holiday Exhibit - Creches! Barbara Cross Shares her Heavenly Collection. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Oxford Museum, 101 S. Morris St. Check restaurant and shop websites or facebook for current days/hours.

Oxford Business Association ~ portofoxford.com 107

Yikes! offer: “Anxieties we treat include fear of f lying, driving, and travel by train and metro, as well as using elevators and escalators. We do not treat fear of driving over the Bay Bridge.” [emphasis added] Proximity to BWI airport as well as the Bridge apparently forced the Center to choose between the area’s multitude of phobias. (“We can’t keep up.”) A study is underway that could provide solutions for some Bridge issues: Every Eastern Shore county from Kent to Somerset supports

a feasibility study for a passenger ferry. Queen Anne’s County Commissioner Jack Wilson said, “We are excited to join our neighboring counties in exploring the feasibility of a Chesapeake Bay Passenger Ferry. This will be a great way to enhance tourism in the Chesapeake Bay region.”

If the wheel is successfully reinvented, ferries will once again cross from the west to multiple Eastern Shore stops. This proposed ferry would differ from the 1990s Chesapeake Flyer out of Baltimore in emphasizing tourism over commuting. It would differ from historic vessels by eliminating the lei108

surely pace, sumptuous meals and cargo capacity. One hypothetical route would carry 40–50 passengers from Anne Arundel County to Kent, Queen Anne’s, Talbot and Dorchester. Similarly, a ferry might run from Calvert County to Lower Shore towns. Eliminating vehicles from the current proposal makes it much less controversial than another

bridge or countless other recent ferry ideas. The result of the bicoastal consortium’s feasibility study is due to be released by the end of the year. Financing for the study has come from federal as well as local government agencies. Enthusiasm rivals the welcome that greeted the Bay Bridge in 1952. Forty-some years ago, A.M. Foley swapped the Washington, D.C. business scene for a writing life on Elliott Island, Maryland. Tidewater Times kindly publishes Foley’s musings on regional history and life in general. Published works are described at www.HollandIslandBook.com.

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Turkey Countdown Even before the summer heat waned, I stood in my too-small kitchen and f lipped through my collection of cooking magazines thinking of new dishes to cook for Thanksgiving dinner. Would this finally be the year to include mashed caulif lower with garlic and butter or switch to oyster

stuffing instead of the usual plain dressing that I make? I doubt that my grandmother ever asked herself such a question. If I remember correctly, the Thanksgivings of my childhood ref lect a little-changing table. There were bowls of stuffing, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, sauerkraut,

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Turkey Countdown

succotash and cranberry sauce. There was turkey and pumpkin pie and everything served on china plates that were given as a wedding gift. Even though I have continued to cook many of my family recipes each Thanksgiving, I add a new dish or two. This year, it just might be an easy corn pudding casserole in addition to others. After years of practice, I have finally learned to manage and enjoy Thanksgiving. Not even last-minute guests can faze me. I start by settling a few things well ahead of the holiday and then following my turkey-day countdown.

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Turkey Countdown duce. Thaw gravy and frozen turkey in refrigerator. 2 days ahead: Make pumpkin bars, cranberry bars and other baked items. 1 day ahead: Make dressing and pick up fresh turkey. Set table, lay out serving pieces and utensils. Move furniture to accommodate guests. Roast Turkey Tip: If you are cooking a whole bird, allow approximately 1 pound per person; to allow for leftovers, allow 1 ½ pounds per person. You can supplement white or dark meat amounts by buying

A Taste of Italy

extra breasts, legs or thighs. How to Make a Roasted Turkey Breast Here is a great way to have turkey in a small space: just cook a turkey breast in the toaster oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Remove any racks other than the bottom one. Add the turkey breast to a large roasting pan and pat dry with paper towels inside and out. Mash the butter, herbs, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Set 2–3 tablespoons aside for later.

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Use the back of a spoon to lift the skin from the turkey breast and spread butter inside. Smooth the skin back down to spread the butter all over the meat. Be careful not to tear the skin, as the butter will drip out when cooking. Roast for 90 minutes or until the innermost part of the breast is cooked to 165°F (this is vital for food safety). Top with remaining butter and let rest for 20 minutes before serving. Easy Corn Pudding Casserole A classic with a bit of a twist. Still that cheesy and buttery dish that pairs perfectly with the holidays! Everyone will want the recipe.

1 8 ½-ounce box cornbread mix 1 14-ounce can whole kernel corn, drained 1 14-ounce can creamed corn 2 large eggs 8 tablespoons butter, melted

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Turkey Countdown 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 cup sour cream 2 cups marbled cheddar cheese, shredded and divided Optional: chopped jalapeños Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9 x 13-inch casserole dish with nonstick spray and set aside. You can also make in individual ramekins. In a large bowl, whisk together the cornbread mix, corn, creamed corn, eggs, butter and salt until combined. Gently fold in sour cream and 1 cup of cheese. Pour into the prepared casserole dish and top with the remaining cheese.

Bake for 40–45 minutes, until the center is set. Let cool slightly before digging in. Enjoy! Make-Ahead Turkey Gravy Gravy-making usually takes place during that chaotic time right before the meal is served. Reduce kitchen traffic by making this up to a month in advance. 1/4 cup butter 1/4 cup f lour 2 cups chicken or turkey broth 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1/2 teaspoon sea salt Melt butter in saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in f lour until no lumps remain. Cook for 1 min-

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ute. Slowly whisk in broth, then add salt and pepper and whisk to incorporate. Bring to a simmer and cook 5–7 minutes or until desired thickness is achieved. Gravy can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored in refrigerator or frozen up to 3 months. If frozen, move to refrigerator to thaw 3 days before serving. Reheat, whisking, until hot. Add water if gravy is too thick, as more broth may make it too salty. However, I often cook and add giblets and neck at this time along with the broth in which they were cooked. 118

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Turkey Countdown Buttery Garlic Caulif lower Even people who hate veggies love this! Both an immersion blender and a large food processor will work for this recipe. 1 head caulif lower, cut into f lorets 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, smashed 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon cream cheese 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

Heat olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat; add garlic and stir until softened, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Transfer half of the caulif lower to a large food processor; cover and process on high. Add remaining caulif lower f lorets one at a time until vegetables are creamy. Blend in cooked garlic, Parmesan cheese, cream cheese, salt and pepper.

Place a steamer insert into a saucepan; add water to just below the bottom of the steamer. Bring water to a boil; add caulif lower, cover and steam about 10 minutes or until tender.

Oyster Stuffing 1 small onion, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 1/4 cup butter, cubed 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 1/4 teaspoon poultry seasoning 1/8 teaspoon sage 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 3 cups day-old bread, cubed 1 large egg, beaten 120

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Turkey Countdown 2/3 cup chicken broth 1 cup shucked oysters, drained and coarsely chopped Cook onion and celery in butter until almost tender. Transfer to large bowl. Stir in parsley, poultry seasoning, sage, salt and pepper. Add bread cubes. Combine broth and oysters; add to bread mixture, stirring gently to combine. Transfer to a greased 1-quart baking dish. Cover and bake at 350°F for 20 minutes. Serves 4, but can easily be doubled. Cranberry Bars These are absolutely delicious and look gorgeous on any Thanksgiving table. 2 cups whole wheat f lour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon sea salt 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2/3 cup organic granulated sugar 2/3 cup organic brown sugar, unpacked 1/4 cup melted grass-fed unsalted butter 2 large egg whites 1/4 cup unsweetened organic applesauce 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2/3 cup chopped white chocolate 1/3 cup dried cranberries, chopped Frosting:

8 ounces organic cream cheese, softened 1/2 cup powdered sugar 2 ounces white baking chocolate, melted 1/3 cup dried cranberries, chopped 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly spray a 9 x 13-inch nonstick baking pan with cooking spray. You can also use mini paper cups in mini baking pans for bite-size treats. In a large bowl, combine the f lour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon and stir to blend. In another bowl, whisk the sugars with the butter, egg whites, applesauce and vanilla until light and f luffy.

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Whisk the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients in two additions until the batter is very well blended. If the batter looks more “crumbly” than smooth, add just a drop of water at a time until it smooths out. Fold in white chocolate chips and 1/3 cup cranberries. Spread batter in baking pan using the back of a measuring cup to smooth evenly. Bake 10–14 minutes, until the edges are light brown and a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Don’t overbake or your bars will be dry. Let cool completely on wire rack. Meanwhile, prepare the frosting. In a large bowl, use an electric mixer to beat the cream cheese,

powdered sugar and vanilla until well blended. Frost bars and sprinkle with remaining cranberries. Drizzle with the melted white chocolate. To melt the chocolate, place in a microwave-safe cup and heat at 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until chocolate reaches desired consistency. When the chocolate sets, cut into 15 large squares, then cut each square in half diagonally to create triangles. Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. You can also freeze, thaw and cut when ready. Note: I like to use fewer chemicals in my baking, but you don’t have to buy organic if you’d rather not.

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Turkey Countdown Pumpkin Cheesecake Bars The ultimate fall dessert combo: cheesecake and pumpkin pie. Great to bring to any table of family or friends. Gingersnap Crust 1 ½ cups gingersnap cookie crumbs (crush cookies in food processor or with a rolling pin) 4 tablespoons grass-fed butter, room temperature 2 tablespoons expeller pressed coconut oil, room temperature

8 ounces cream cheese 2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1/2 cup coconut sugar 2 tablespoons whole wheat white f lour 2 large eggs, room temperature Preheat the oven to 325ºF and grease an 8 x 8-inch baking dish

Pumpkin Cheesecake Filling 1 15-ounce can organic pumpkin puree

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with coconut oil. You can also use mini paper liners in mini muffin tins and make tiny bite-size treats to freeze. Combine the gingersnap crumbs, butter and coconut oil in a large bowl. Use a spatula (or your hands) to mix all the ingredients until the crust can hold its form. Transfer to the prepared baking pan and use a spatula to pat mixture evenly across the bottom. Bake for 10 minutes, remove from oven and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes. Combine all filling ingredients except for eggs in a large bowl. Mix with an electric mixture on low/ medium speed until smooth. Add the eggs to the filling and mix on low until just combined (be care-

ful not to overmix!). Pour pumpkin filling over the crust, making sure it’s evenly spread out. Bake for 38–40 minutes or until the center of the filling is gelatinlike. Remove pan from the oven, let cool completely and then place in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours (or until chilled) before cutting into bars. Top with your favorite whipped cream and a dusting of gingersnap crumbs. Pamela Meredith, formerly Denver’s NBC Channel 9 Children’s Chef, has taught both adult and children’s cooking classes. For more of Pam’s recipes, visit the Story Archive tab at tidewatertimes.com.

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Rebecca T. Ruark Reborn by James Dawson December 27, 2022 was the second-worst day in the life of the oldest skipjack in the world, the Rebecca T. Ruark. Her historic status did not help her when a rusty 1997 Chevy pickup crossed the parking lot at Dogwood Harbor in Tilghman that night, overshot the dock, snapped of f a 12-inch-diameter piling like it was a matchstick and crashed into her stern while she was moored at her berth. Instead of sinking into the harbor, the pickup

was suspended in midair with its tail section on the dock and its front section on the stern of the boat, which had been badly damaged. But at least the Rebecca was still floating and, fortunately, there were no fatalities, as the driver could easily have drowned. Still, you don’t expect to hear that a pickup could smash into a boat that is f loating on the water. The accident happened at about 10 p.m., but the Rebecca’s captain

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Reborn and owner, Capt. Wade Murphy Jr., who lives nearby, did not know about it until he saw her the next morning. Capt. Murphy Jr. is hard of hearing

and did not hear his cellphone ringing. He also didn’t hear when his son, Capt. Wade Murphy III, went around to tell him. Capt. Murphy III knocked on his father’s door and windows trying to wake him but was reluctant to let himself into the house with his key because he might have been mistaken for an intruder and shot. The alleged driver of the pickup was reported to have been waving his arms wildly when talking to the police. He refused a Breathalyzer test, but, as sheriff’s deputies detected signs of alcohol impairment, he was charged with DUI. The rusty pickup only had a small dent from hitting the piling. Capt. Mur phy Jr. sa id t he piling had broken off not because it was rotThe world deserves a better e-bike and Electra has cracked the code, combining comfort, stability and performance in one stylish package. Ready? Where will you Go!

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ten but because it was made from treated wood, which made it brittle. A local wrecker was too small to lift the pickup off the boat, so a bigger one was ordered from Cambridge. It didn’t have straps for lifting, just chains that scraped the sides of the pickup—not that it mattered so very much by then.

Capt. Murphy Jr. did not know the alleged driver but said for the pa st yea r he had seen his boat docked near the Rebecca. It was said that witnesses had seen him driv ing erratically af ter leav ing a local bar, so presumably he had intended to spend the night on his boat. Unfortunately, he missed the mark somewhat. Capt. Wade Murphy Jr., 81, was almost overwhelmed by the accident and turned the ownership of the Rebecca over to his son, who sold his own skipjack, the Hilda M., to help pay for the repairs on the Rebecca, as the alleged driver of the alleged pickup allegedly had minimal insurance. In the meantime, the Rebecca remained in limbo for a few months

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while paper work and insurance were sorted out. By May, her mast and rigging had been removed and she was towed to the Horseman boatyard in Madison. On the 12th, she was lifted out of the water by a huge crane and placed on chocks and blocks on shore, waiting her turn to be repaired. By coincidence, Madison is only about five miles from Taylor’s Island, where the Rebecca was built by Moses Geoghegan in 1886 for William T. Ruark and named for his wife, Rebecca Travers Ruark. Rebecca the boat was originally built as a sloop but was modified with a skipjack rig by the 1920s. So, while the Rebecca is up on blocks waiting, it’s time for a history lesson. The skipjack was developed in the Chesapeake Bay in the 1880s and ’90s and soon became the most popular boat for oyster dredging because of its clever design. It was easy to build, easy to sail and great

for oystering, so hundreds were built. For conservation measures, the state directed that only sailpowered boat s c a n be used for oyster dredging, and most of that was done by skipjacks. In 1985, the Maryland General Assembly voted the skipjack the state boat of Maryland. Maryland has the last f leet of working sailboats in the country; in 2023, the state issued a skipjack license plate. Capt. Murphy Jr. bought the Rebecca in 1984 for $21,000 to use as a workboat. He knew the Rebecca’s U-shaped hull is more expensive to build and repair, but it holds more oysters, sails better and could make him more money than the more common V-shaped bot tom. Her oyster dredging license number has been #29 for some years.

The worst day in Rebecca’s history was Nov. 3, 1999, when she sank in a gale with her captain and crew onboard near the mouth of the Choptank River. The marine radio didn’t work that day, but what saved them was that Capt. Murphy Jr. had

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Reborn just gotten a cellphone. He called his wife and asked her to send a waterman to get him, hopefully one that was close by, and not the DNR or Coast Guard, which would have taken longer and by then it would have been too late. F o r t u n a t e l y , Capt. Murphy Jr. and crew were only in the water 20 minutes or so, which is still a long time in November, and they could have easily died of hypothermia. Luckily, Capt. Jason Wilson on the workboat Island Girl and Jason’s father, Robbie, on the Miss Brenda II were nearby and came to the rescue. The Rebecca was raised in 2000 and rebuilt at a cost of about

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$80,000. Capt. Murphy Jr. raised most of that by selling decoys carved from Rebecca’s old mast, so the worst day in her life turned into her best day. That was more than 20 years ago, and since most modern lumber only lasts for 20 years or so on boats, the Rebecca was in need of another rebuild. The accident provided the opportunity for that to be done. Capt. Murphy Jr. had been thinking about fiberglassing her anyway. Capt. Murphy Jr. said that her keel was badly hogged, which means t hat t he bow and ster n ends of the keel, the boat’s backbone, had sagged over time. This slowed her down when sailing. Replacing the keel was out of the question, however, as the whole boat would have to be disassembled and rebuilt. Instead, they slowly jacked up both ends before she was fiberglassed. While this helped, it did not fix the problem completely. But the fiberglass would at least help strengthen, straighten and waterproof the old hull. The Rebecca’s hull was sandblasted down to bare wood, and some repairs were made to the planking.

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Reborn After allowing for several weeks of drying out, fiberglass cloth and sealer were applied and the cabin area repaired. While purists would be horrified by the application of fiberglass to a historic wooden vessel, remember that the Rebecca is privately owned and is still a working oyster dredge boat and not a shiny museum display, so some practical decisions had to be made. Even at $60,000 or so, the fiberglass and repair costs were still much cheaper than a complete half-million-dollar rebuild. The attrition rate for skipjacks is high, and it seems there are fewer boats every year. As of 2023, the

Last Sk ipjack Project estimates there are 31 skipjacks left, with 16 of them still working, down from possibly 800 or more built over the years. The Rebecca was not the first skipjack to have been fiberglassed. The Ida May, Helen Virginia and Somerset have also been ’glassed, and the Kathryn will probably be next. More and more watermen are having their older wooden workboats f iberglassed for practical considerations, as the maintenance is much easier and cheaper than with a wooden hull. Fiberglassing is not authentic, but fiberglassed and floating is better than authentic but sunken. The fiberglassing and cabin re-

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Reborn pair were completed by mid-August, and Aug. 24, 2023 was the secondbest day in her life, as the Rebecca was placed back in the water by a 150-ton crane from Aerial Crane in Parsonsburg, Md. The move, which cost about $6,800, only took about five minutes, but of course that does not count getting the crane there and the time spent setting everything up. This was the same crane that had lifted her out of the water in May.

The huge crane picked up the 47-foot-long skipjack like she was a bathtub toy, swung her around and placed her gently back in the

water. Fortunately, the crane operators were experts and knew exactly where to place the lifting straps so the Rebecca’s hull didn’t crack open like an eggshell, which also would have been bad. You might wonder why a 150-ton crane was used to lift a 25-ton boat, but we aren’t talking about a dead lift here, as the crane’s boom can extend about 200 feet and has to lean out to be able to lift and move things. This greatly increases the stress, so counterweights have to be placed carefully to prevent the crane from tipping over, which even a landlubber like me knows would be bad. In addition, using a crane that is too big is preferable to using one that is too small in case something unforeseen happens. Jeff Wade, who did the lift, said that without her mast the Rebecca weighed 55,000 pounds when waterlogged and 50,000 pounds after she had dried out on shore for a couple of months, so she had soaked up about 5,000 pounds of water over the years! That comes out to be about 600 gallons. He also said she was in

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Reborn pretty good shape, as he didn’t see any light showing through her seams when she was hanging up there in the air after she had dried out, like he has seen with some older boats. He used a Liebherr LTM 1130 crane, which costs in the neighborhood of $1.5 million, so if you ever need your 137-year-old skipjack moved, or anything else that’s big, give them a call. This wasn’t their biggest crane—they also have a 200-ton job if you have something really heavy. Unfor tunately, when Rebecca was set back in the water while still supported somewhat by the crane, she started leaking around the centerboard. Centerboard leaks are not

at all unusual until the wood in the centerboard well swells up and perhaps some last-minute repairs are made. The Rebecca was towed back to Tilghman that afternoon using Capt. Murphy III’s workboat, Elle’s Angel. The mast, which Capt. Murphy Jr. got from California in 2000, is 70 feet long and weighs nearly a ton. In case you were wondering, its pivot or balance point is about 20 feet from its base. This is a handy thing to know when raising the mast, which would be easy because Capt. Murphy III has a boom truck that he purchased from the electric company. So, with the leaks fi xed and the mast, rigging and sails back in place, it was hoped that she would be ready

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Reborn for the 64th annual Deal Island Skipjack Race and Island Festival on Labor Day, which was just over a week away. Even if she missed that race, the Rebecca could take comfort

in knowing that she won it 11 times, far more often than any other skipjack. The Ida May is catching up to the Rebecca with six wins so far, so the race would be interesting! The Rebecca came in third in her class in the Chesapeake Bay Championship Workboat Races on July 2, 1921, so she is an old hand at racing. All other things being equal with boats in the same class, a lighter boat fresh out of dry dock can have a speed advantage over heavier boats of a similar length that have remained in the water. This is because, even when painted, the hull can soak up water over the years, as evidenced by the Rebecca’s 5,000-pound weight loss. The heavier the boat is, the lower it sits and the more resistance there

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is from the water, which slows her down. In fact, some clever captains put their boats up on shore to dry out for month or so before a race for that very reason. The Rebecca was back in the water at 10:52 a.m. under the command of her new captain. Capt. Wade III is the Murphy family’s fourth-generation waterman, so the Rebecca will remain in good hands and ready for more adventures. All in all, it was a very interesting morning, and it’s not often that one gets to see a historic Chesapeake Bay boat hanging up in the air like that. She was ready for the race, and so her first new adventure came just over a week later at the Deal Island sk ipjack race sponsored by t he

Skipjack Heritage Committee. Deal Island touts itself as “the home of the skipjacks” because so many have been built there, so please visit the Skipjack Heritage Museum in nearby Chance for more history about that. Capt. Murphy III had worked around the clock to get her ready in time and was kind enough to invite me along for the race. I go as ballast since I have no sailing skills. The race started at 9:30 a.m. with 12 skipjacks participating. The skipjacks were towed out to the course. This is because skipjack captains sometimes remove their push boats before a race in order to make the boats lighter and thus faster. Unlike a few previous races, at least there was some wind. The Ida May with Capt. Shawn

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Reborn Ridgely was first over the finish line, and we were right behind her, second overall, but Rebecca was first in the working skipjack class and she was about a mile ahead of the others. The Ida May is no longer working, and Capt. Murphy Jr. jokes that she is in the toy class. In any event, each boat won her class. Capt. Murphy III said that the Rebecca was sailing much better than she used to and that if he could have had another half mile, we probably could have caught the Ida May. But the important thing was that the Rebecca was back in the water again. Not bad for a boat that practically had a pickup sticking out of her

stern end a few months earlier. It is interesting to compare the two skipjacks, the Rebecca from Tilghman Island and the Ida May from Deal Island. As noted, the Rebecca is 47 feet long, built in 1886 with a U-shaped hull, while the Ida May, built in 1906, is slightly shorter at 42 feet long, with the more common Vshaped hull. Both vessels have been fiberglassed. The Ida May is slightly smaller in length and width or beam, so she weighs less than the Rebecca, which gives her an advantage in lighter winds. Because the Rebecca is larger and heavier with a wider beam, she needs a little more wind to get her moving. However, a longer skipjack is potentially faster once she gets going because a sailboat’s

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maximum speed is determined by its length—meaning that a longer boat has the potential of sailing faster than a shorter boat with the same beam or width. There is even a formula to calculate the water displacement of a boat and her maximum speed. So, the Ida May can beat the Rebecca in lighter winds, while the Rebecca can beat the Ida May in stronger winds. Of course, other factors are involved as well. And speaking of light winds, one skipjack race was halted early a few years ago because there was not enough wind for any of the boats. Just before the race was called, one of the crew on the Rebecca looked over the side and saw a hard crab swimming along beside us on the surface of the

water. The crab was going faster than we were! Maybe we should have lassoed the crab and gotten a tow. Capt. Murphy III said that the Rebecca will be working this winter dredging oysters again. And, thanks to Captains Murphy Jr. and III, this historic and unique vessel is still alive dredging and racing. Long live the Rebecca T. Ruark! Since Capt. Murphy III has received zero insurance money from the accident, all repairs have been paid for out of his pocket. You can help by donating to the Rebecca T. Ruark’s GoFundMe page. Thank you! James Dawson is the owner of Unicorn Bookshop in Trappe.

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All Quiet on the Sound A novel by B. P. Gallagher

Chapter 3: Lowdown Mudflat The following day saw most of the Higginses up before dawn, except for one notable holdout. Earl rose earliest as a rule and, as was his morning custom, went about the house rousing his siblings. Margaret Anne was already awake when he cracked her bedroom door, working on untangling her voluminous hair with an antique ivory-handled brush that had belonged to their mother and her mother before her.

Catching sight of him in the mirror, she said over her shoulder, “Morning, Earl-y bird.” “Morning, Maggie. Almost ready?” “Almost,” said Maggie, wincing as the brush snagged on a knot. “Clara’s Pop Pop’s taking us in today.” “That’s good of him. Bringing you home, too?” She shrugged. “Guess so, unless there’s a chance to stick around for the afternoon shift and make a cou-

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All Quiet ple dollars extra. I’ll get a ride with somebody else if it comes to that.” “Alright, ’long as you get home safe,” said Earl. “Don’t make Leon and I go driving around looking for you in Betsy. You know he’ll embarrass the hell out of you honking the horn up and down the Shore if he has to.” Margaret grimaced. “Oh, I know.” “And put the coffee on when you’re fi nished brushing your hair, will you? I could use the pick-meup. Sure Leon could too.” “Sure.” Shutting her door behind him, Earl headed down the hall and picked his way up the rickety stairs,

avoiding the squeakiest floorboards from lifelong habit. Leon’s was the sole bedroom on the second story, and spacious by the modest standards of the old house. It was also the only room featuring multiple windows. These overlooked the Sound to the south and the bulk of Moore Island to the north and east, affording the best views from indoors. The room had therefore been occupied historically by the heads of the Higgins household— Mom and Pop before Mom passed and Pop grew too arthritic to climb the stairs, Mom Mom and Pop Pop before them, and so on. Now Leon occupied it, and today its privileged view of sunrise went unappreciated. When Earl peeked in, Leon was ly-

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All Quiet ing abed with the covers drawn up to his ears, facing the windowless western wall. He did not stir as Earl entered the room. “Up, Leon! We’re burning daylight,” said Earl, though the pink and orange fingertips of dawn had barely crept over the horizon. Leon groaned, drew the blanket all the way over his head. “Bunky’ll tan your hide if we’re late again, brother,” said Earl, nudging him. Leon shifted under his covers, the movement suggesting he had plugged his ears with his fingers. Not an auspicious sign. “Maggie’s got the coffee on. Want me to bring you a cup?”

No answer. Growing impatient, Earl said, “I’ll just go grab that, then, and a pail of water from the spigot as well. If you’re not up by the time I’m back, one or the other’s getting dumped on you and I won’t be picky about which.” “I’m coming, dammit!” said Leon, but he didn’t budge. Exasperated, Earl crossed the room, prepared to drag his brother from his bed if necessary. There was little reasoning with Leon when he got like this, and his mood tended to darken this time of year in step with the narrowing daylight hours. Hearing his approach, Leon threw back the covers. “Don’t you dare,” he warned, fists clenched. Earl stepped back, showing his

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All Quiet empty palms. “C’mon downstairs when you’re ready, then, I guess. But make it quick, or I will be back with a pail.” Leon appeared in the kitchen several minutes later, eyes downcast and looking about as downtrodden as Earl had ever seen him. Lacking much else by way of a cure for melancholy, Earl pressed an empty mug and the coffee pot into his brother’s hands. That should help with his hangover, at least. If it was some other form of tonic Leon sought, let him self-prescribe. Earl wouldn’t be party to drinking before sunup on a workday. “Coffee’s too hot to drink,” grum-

bled Leon, yawning as he eyed the steaming pot. “Then pour it in the thermos and bring it along. We gotta be off.” Betsy coughed to life in the driveway a few minutes later. Crossing the land bridge to the Shore, they made the half-hour drive to the marina. Leon spoke little on the way, only stared out the window and sipped from his thermos. Earl was too busy watching the road to see whether he added anything by way of tonic. Hopefully not too much, if he had; they shared that thermos. “You’re late, Leon Higgins,” said Bunky Hodges as the brothers climbed from Betsy’s cab. The dockmaster sat in his porch chair, alternating between drags from the

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All Quiet cigarette in his left hand and sips from the steaming tin cup of coffee in his right. “Late?” said Leon. “What’re you hollerin’ at me for? What about Earl? He drove me. Ain’t he late, too?” “I know damn well he ain’t the reason you’re late,” said Bunky, shooting Earl a wink that crinkled his windburned features with laugh lines. “I’m sick n’ tired of you casting aspersions,” said Leon. “What’ve we got today, Bunk?” asked Earl before the pair of them could get to ribbing one another. An old game between the dockmaster and his longest-tenured hand, but not one conducive to productivity. And given Leon’s disagreeable temper this morning, even friendly repartee was apt to get nasty if they weren’t careful. Bunky dragged long at his cigarette before answering. “Gotta barge stuck up the Wicomico past Whitehaven, on the way to Salisbury. Think you can take the tug and get her moving again?” Leon sighed. “Lemme guess— Bubba Coyne’s work?” Bunky nodded. He puffed his cigarette down to a nub, which he flicked into the water with an expiring hiss. “When’s that boy gonna quit drinking his breakfast?” grumbled

Leon. He started for the end of the dock, where the tugboat waited. Earl made to follow, shaking his head at the unintended irony of this remark, but Bunky stopped him with a word that turned into a coughing fit. When it passed, he cleared his throat with a thunderous harrumph, lit a new cigarette, and said, “Not you, Earl. I’ve got broke-down workboats aplenty for you to tool ’round with here in the meantime. Besides, Leon and Bubba get on well enough together.” They’re like to get on with sinking your tug together, thought Earl, which wasn’t entirely fair. Bubba Coyne was a regular nuisance but capable enough, and Leon, for all his foul moods and vice, was nothing if not a skilled waterman. Yet Earl agreed to stay behind. The day was cold, and it would be colder still on the river. As Leon cast off, glowering out from under the fur-lined rim of his cap, Bunky remarked, “You better keep an eye on him. Funk like that’s only apt to worsen come winter.” “Don’t I know it,” said Earl, and he did. All the signs that Leon had a low spell coming—a low tide, so to speak—were present. Pop had used to get like this, and Mom before him. Indeed, after Mom’s death, the deep-seeded sadness that drove her to her end had seeped into and festered within Pop, who’d spent much of the rest of his days sitting in mourning in dark rooms. Drink

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had deepened the darkness, as it did for Leon. Bunky, an old friend of the late Eldridge Higgins, knew it, too. Catching sight of the worry in Earl’s eyes, he said, “He’ll be fine. Nothing a day out on the wooder won’t cure. As for yourself, how ‘bout starting with that deadrise there with the busted keel—oysterman owns it needs that boat in working order to start dredging by December. He’s mad enough ‘bout missing the start of the season—can’t imagine how he’s making ends meet.” “Whose is it?” said Earl, wondering what fool had run his boat aground just in time to harvest the shoals. “John Barnhart,” said Bunky.

“Who else?” Earl got to work. Leon missed lunch, and when he returned with the tug at two in the afternoon, it was sans barge. “She was stuck, alright!” he shouted as the tug chugged up to dock. “Stuck like a log in a lowdown mudflat, right before where the creek breaks off from the river.” “What’d you do with her?” said Bunky as Leon disembarked, tossing Earl a line to tie up for him. “Pushed her on up to ’Bury rather than turn ’round and bring her back,” Leon explained, coffee and booze on his breath, “Bubba’s taking her from there.” Bunky shook his head but gave no complaint at the outcome or the

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All Quiet smell. Not that he was in any position to talk. The dockmaster had spent the better part of the past two hours smoking and dozing in his rocker. At least Leon’s mood had improved from this morning, and even with a buzz on he was a more than competent shipwright. For the next three hours he helped Earl work on John Barnhart’s boat and a few others besides. They left the marina at ten past five feeling like they’d done a good day’s work, all in all. Upon returning home, Earl and Leon found Margaret sitting red eyed and despondent at the kitchen table. That she had been crying was plain as day, but despite their insistence she refused to admit it or tell them why. Her obstinance and the liquor Leon had been imbibing throughout the day were sufficient cause to get him agitated. Then again, it never took much when he was in one of his low tides. “You still seeing that Jimmy whatshisname?” said Leon at one juncture, by now red faced and angry at Margaret’s stonewalling. “Better not be him made you cry like that!” “I don’t see that horny toad anymore!” said Maggie, all righteous affront at the suggestion. “He’s nothin’ but knees n’ elbows—and pimples. Gross.” “He was knocking ‘round here

not two weeks past, Maggie!” Leon sounded exasperated. Margaret’s bloodshot eyes blazed, and she spat with real venom, “He’s a knock-kneed nobody is what he is!” “Well, I sure am glad to hear you say that!” said Leon, “’Cos I nearly knocked him off the porch last time, and you can be damn sure I will if he comes ’round again!” And he stormed off to wash up for supper. That was how it went with Maggie and Leon. When their headwinds collided, the resulting squalls could shake the house—but they were usually brief, and calm weather always returned...eventually. With Leon gone to stew in his room, Earl tried to get to the bottom of what was bothering his sister. “C’mon, Maggs. What’s wrong?” “Nothing’s wrong,” she answered, just as she had to a dozen more impassioned entreaties before this one. But the sniffle that followed spelled out the truth of the matter, and the way she dabbed at her eyes with her sleeve underscored it. Earl tried again. “You can’t let Leon needle you, Maggie, you know that. ’Specially this time of year. Will you just tell me what’s the matter? I can’t help if you don’t let me in on the problem.” There, that ought to do the trick. He’d lifted it right out of Pop’s tome of father-isms, after all. “Maybe it doesn’t need your help, ever think of that?” she countered,

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All Quiet citing from her volume of Maggieisms. A sprawling text, and ever growing. “Busybody.” “Dammit, Maggie! You gotta give me something, or I’ll just have to assume Leon guessed right about Jimmy whatshisface.” That one got to her. For Leon to accuse her of carrying on with a dullard was one thing, but for Earl, quite another. “Shit on Jimmy Smith!” she said, more virulently than ever. “Jimmy whatshisface—Jimmy shitforbrains is more like it!” Trying a different tack now that she was riled up, Earl held his tongue, offering ample opportunity for his sister to spill her guts into the pause. It was a known fact that Margaret couldn’t stand such gulches in conversation. Given the chance, she tended to fill them in however she could. “It’s Clara…” she said after a time, on the verge of telling him. “What about Clara?” Maggie’s eyes welled up with fresh tears, and she blurted “It’s her Pop Pop, all right?! He’s sick. The doc’s worried he might not have too long!” “Oh,” said Earl, taken aback. “Well… He’s pretty old, ain’t he?” “Does that make it any less horrible?!” Maggie cried, and broke down sobbing. Earl was f lummoxed. Margaret had known Geezer Gibbs her whole

life—all the Higgins children had. Everybody on Moore Island knew the ancient waterman, who was as much a fixture of this dot upon the Sound as its land bridge. The old breed were like that, bound to the Island from birth until death, usually from some form of cancer, though there were other ways. But Earl hadn’t realized his sister held such affection for the old-timer. Maggie must’ve cottoned to the Geezer over all that time she spent with his granddaughter. As for Earl, he was saddened to hear that Mr. Gibbs was ailing, but it wasn’t exactly unexpected. Folks were sad when the tides crumbled away another inch of waterfront each year, but was anyone surprised? “You’d better not tell nobody!” Margaret was saying through her tears. “Don’t mention it to Clara if you see her, and don’t you dare mention it to Leon, either! He’s apt to try to use it to get on her good side, and that’s the last thing she needs right now. Besides, she wasn’t even supposed to tell me— her Pop Pop doesn’t want anyone to start babying him.” “Uh…sure, Maggie. I won’t.” “Good,” she said, tears subsiding to sniff les, “Now go and wash up yourself—I’ll let you know if I need help with dinner. I’m fine, hear me? Go on!” Earl went, glad to be away from the bewildering display of emotion. Between the two of them, his

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siblings were putting on a hell of a show today. Leon was still huffing and puffing come dinnertime, raring for something to rant about. “You know damn well we can’t afford marmalade, Maggie!” he said, finding no better target for his pique at the kitchen table. “It don’t go with duck anyhow.” “I think it goes nice,” said Earl. It was the honest truth; Margaret’s cooking had improved in leaps and bounds of late. She answered the compliment with an appreciative but f leeting smile. Still feeling glum, then. “You’ll bankrupt us at this rate,” said Leon. He could be relentless when he wanted, so desperate for others to share in his misery that

he doled it out heedless of who or what was struck in the crossfire. Slamming down his silverware and pushing his plate away from him, he said, “Didya have to spoil every piece this way?” Margaret took the bait, which was, of course, what Leon wanted. “As a matter of fact, I did! And you can go hungry, for all I care!” “Fine, I’d rather! I can’t stand marmalade!” was Leon’s peevish response. “You’re a lousy cook, Maggie. No wonder you ain’t got hitch—” “You can cook for yourself, then, you big dummy!” “You can hunt for yourself then, stupid!” Leon shouted back. Earl winced. Leon had gone a step too

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All Quiet far, but would he realize it in time? Margaret’s lip had begun to tremble perilously. Soon the dam would collapse, after which would follow waterworks. Time to intervene. “While we’re on the subject, I can’t abide by peanut butter neither!” Earl broke in, doing his surliest impression of Leon. “The Lord didn’t intend nuts to be that texture!” It was a lame-duck attempt at offsetting the dangerous mood with absurdity, but it did the trick. Maggie tittered, forestalling tears for now, and even Leon couldn’t help a mulelike snort at the ludicrous complaint. “As a matter of fact,” he said, “I tend to agree with you there.” Leon glowered a bit after that, then slid his chair from the table, tossed his plate in the dish pan and hid himself away upstairs, stormfront averted. Margaret soon followed suit, shutting her bedroom door and latching it behind her. Lanternlight spilling underneath the door suggested she was reading, or perhaps preening. As night settled over Moore Island and the Tangier Sound, sleet began to fall from a slate sky. By evening’s end, Earl’s siblings still hadn’t emerged from their rooms, so he went around the house alone snuffing out lanterns and checking that the windows were shut and

latched against the weather. Rapping on his sister’s door, he said, “It’s raining, Maggs. Make sure your window’s closed up tight. And goodnight.” Maggie didn’t answer, but a second later he heard her rise from her writing desk and pad across the room to her window. It squeaked open, then shut firmly. The latch clicked into place. Next Earl went to see that Leon did the same, avoiding the squeakiest steps by rote. No light shined through the crack at the foot of his brother’s door. That could mean Leon was asleep, but a muff led sniff ling from within told Earl otherwise. Rather than knock and risk disturbing or embarrassing his brother—who knew what Leon got up to in his bedroom at this lonesome hour?—Earl turned from the door. As he did, Leon let out an anguished whimper, and Earl realized with a pang of desperate sympathy that his brother was weeping in the shadows. Then he padded back downstairs, hoping that the weighty tattoo of frigid slush against the roof hid the sound of his retreating footsteps. Brendan Gallagher is a 2013 graduate of Easton High School and is currently finishing up a Ph.D. in Social-Personality Psychology at the University at Albany.

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Changes:

Flashing Lights in the Rearview Mirror Excerpt from a Memoir by Roger Vaughan

Chapter 1: Dallas About a year after I’d gotten a job at The Saturday Evening Post magazine, I’d stayed in at lunchtime, eaten a sandwich at my desk and was working away when the Associated Press machine outside my office began ringing nonstop. Thinking it was broken, I went out to give it a kick and read that President John F. Kennedy had been shot in Dallas. Shock. A presidential assassination, one of four in all of American history. My God, we’d grown up hearing about Lincoln, and we’d learned about Garfield, and then McKinley in 1901. Now this, in my lifetime. Insane. Staggering news. Currently (2023), 327 people are shot every day in the United States. Of those, 117 die. That’s more than 42,000 deaths by gun a year. Hardly a week goes by without news of a mass shooting in schools and stores, “mass” being defined as the wanton murder of four or more people. As a population, we’ve be-

come inured to gun violence. Shooting people is a staple of primetime television. Scores of people are shot every night before our eyes in television series and films. The USA boasts more guns than people. And while there’s a desperate need for gun control—one the majority of Americans want—it’s a political hot potato. But back in 1963, sixty years ago, the murdering of civilians was still shocking, outrageous.

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when I got there, was in crisis. The magazine had been around since First there was a rush of incred- 1821, an American icon that in its ible sadness. Jack Kennedy was so prime had featured writers like appealing to many of us. As a per- F. Scott Fitzgerald and William son. How he’ll go down as a presi- Faulkner, and had run all those dent is up to the historians, Bay of heartwarming covers by Norman Pigs and all that, but he was defi- Rockwell. But it was getting tired. nitely a cool guy, a sailor, a man who Not long before I’d arrived there, in brought great music and art into the 1962, the editor-in-chief had still White House. He didn’t wear hats, been getting paid in cash. Every so we didn’t wear hats. He was a Friday, his secretary would go into wealthy, classy, well-educated man his office with a bulging envelope who indulged his great taste in and start stacking the hundredwomen because he could, and there dollar bills up on his desk. The Post were lots of them—Marilyn Mon- was the flagship of a comprehensive roe, Anita Eckberg, Gene Tierney, print-media corporation with eight Marlena Dietrich, a string of White or nine subdivisions that included House secretaries several other magaAnd he’s been shot. and interns…the list zines, advertising, Jack Kennedy is dead! seemed endless. I distribution, promoWhat the hell. remember being at a tion, a book departpress screening of an ment, etc. Angie Dickinson movie. Angie was The attitude among The Post’s there. After it was over, I squeezed aging staff was sublime arrogance. into the front of a packed eleva- The top editors wore three-piece tor next to Arthur Schlesinger, Jr., suits, enjoyed two- to three-hour the noted historian and so-called alcoholic lunches and put their feet “public intellectual” who was a on their desks when some lower good friend of Jack Kennedy’s. life-form, like a writer, would have Just before the door closed, Angie the gall to come speak with them. poked her head in and whispered in They shared a most annoying Schlesinger’s ear, which was close phrase they would pencil in red on to mine, “Give my love to JFK.” the upper right corner of story ideas And he’s been shot. Jack Kennedy that arrived on their desks: “would is dead! What the hell. read.” I got to meet these fossils while *** applying for a job with The Post, a job I did not get. But I was acceptThe Saturday Evening Post, ed into the corporation’s executive 166

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The executive training program had been a good place to keep track training program. The idea was to of The Post, which had always been spend a month or so in each corpo- my objective. The minute I’d heard rate division, then pick the one you Blair was on board and that he’d liked best in hopes of full-time em- cleaned house, I called his secreployment. After two months, I was tary and requested an appointment. wretched. No question the program I figured he couldn’t refuse to see a was instructive, but I hated it. guy from the training program, and In those two months, all hell had I was right. broken loose in The Saturday EveBlair was short spoken and ning Post’s editorial department. heavy set with dark, piercing eyes. The editor-in-chief had been re- A shock of black hair fell over his tired after having put in a hundred forehead. Even seated with his or so years on the job, and, much shoulders hunched, he looked ready to my amusement, that row of ed- to pounce. Well advised to keep it itor-fossils had been sent packing. brief, I told him that I wasn’t right The mover and shaker behind this for the training program and wanttakeover was a force ed a job at the magnamed Clay Blair, He was the first journalist to azine. I had some who had made a big sail beneath the north pole writing samples with on an atomic submarine. name for himself at me, but he didn’t Time magazine. As a seem interested. He bureau chief, it was said he’d been asked a couple questions, like where turning out 10,000 words a week I was from, what I did for fun, and for several years on the various sub- if I were a Yankees fan. I told him jects he was assigned to cover and I hated the Yankees. He laughed, the story ideas he was promoting. said okay, he’d give me a sevenAmong other notable accomplish- week trial period. If I didn’t make ments, he was the first journalist it, I’d be on the street. No return to to sail beneath the North Pole on the training program would be posan atomic submarine. Blair was sible. All or nothing, in other words. brought in by the board to wake We shook hands. up The Post before it crashed, an Barely a month later, I found myimpossible assignment thanks to self working with a designer selectaccelerating postal rates and the ing photographs and laying out pagincursion of television. The Post es for the next issue, something that would close its doors in five years, wouldn’t have happened for many but it would be an exciting five years (if ever) under normal condiyears. tions. That’s how thin the staff had 168

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ler would always get the pictures, and for Dallas, now surely in tatbecome. A dozen other people and ters, sharp elbows would probably I were working 12–14-hour days be needed. to keep The Post on schedule until The city was, in fact, in tatmore experienced people could be ters. Schiller and I started driving recruited. around, asking questions, tracking rumors, picking up leads, trying *** to make sense of anything along with hundreds of other reporters That day in 1963, Blair had and television crews. There wasn’t looked daggers at me when I burst much sense to be made of it until into the editor’s office, interrupt- 1991, when Oliver Stone wrote and ing a heavy meeting. No doubt he directed JFK, the controversial film wished the extraordinary news had about Louisiana District Attorney been brought to him by a more sea- Jim Garrison’s prolonged attempt soned staffer, but there I was. He to get to the bottom of the assasput me on the next flight to Dallas sination, which Garrison appeared to meet a photograto have done. JFK is pher, Larry Schiller, He would become famous for a cinematic drama who was as close as his photos of Marylin Monroe based on facts and we had in America swimming naked in her pool. driven by artistic lito a paparazzo. I cense. It was dubbed thought it was an odd selection. a countermyth to the official myth Schiller was loud. Schiller was of the Warren Commission, which coarse. His typical restaurant order in just ten months had all-toostarted with three large Cokes, each conveniently concluded that Lee with extra cherries. Built like a fire- Harvey Oswald, working alone, plug, Schiller had sharp elbows in a had been the sole assassin. Perhaps crowd and a grating way of making encouraged by an Act of Congress authorities give him anything he passed in 1979 by the U.S. House wanted just so he would get out of Select Committee on Assassinatheir faces and go away. Legend had tions, which dismissed the Warren it that Schiller had stopped a com- Commission’s Report by concludmercial flight carrying Vietnam’s ing that President Kennedy was First Lady, Madam Nhu, after it had killed by a conspiratorial collective, left the gate so he could photograph Stone’s film provoked debate and her. He would become famous for discussion. As film critic Roger Ebhis photographs of Marilyn Monroe ert wrote, “There is more to it [the swimming naked in her pool. Schil- assassination] than revealed. (JFK) 170

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range. That was the end of Oswald and the beginning of a building is a brilliant reflection of our unease wave of suspicion. and paranoia, our restless dissatisLater that day, Schiller and I visfaction.” ited one of the strip joints run by Libra, Don DeLillo’s nonfic- Ruby. Now it was a bad cop movie, tion novel about the assassina- with no one knowing anything about tion, also appeared in 1991. Named anything. The strip joint was a very for Oswald’s birth sign, Libra shed dark, clubby place. It smelled bad. uncomfortable light on the CIA’s The jukebox was vintage country possible role in Kennedy’s murder, and western. Sallow-faced regulars presenting evidence of foul play and at the bar were not thrilled by the examining conspiratorial aspects sudden attention they were getting that were too convincingly estab- from a steady procession of media lished to be easily dismissed. creeps like Schiller and me. Nobody The second day Schiller and I was talking. Schiller grabbed a few were in Dallas, we heard Oswald shots of the girls, making them furiwas to be moved from the Dallas ous. One of the larger regulars got police station to the up and gave him a more secure county We heard the gunshot as we shove. Schiller began jail. We had to pick were running into the base- one of his shrill rants ment of the police station. where we thought about his rights that the best photographs drew some dangerwould be possible. We agreed the ous smiles and a few nasty guffaws. police station was the place to be. The bartender, a lean, middle-aged We were held up in traffic. We heard woman with muscles showing bethe gunshot as we were running low her sleeveless blouse, got evinto the basement of the police sta- eryone’s attention by slamming the tion where Oswald was taken to be butt end of a pool cue on the bar. It transported. Confusion reigned. sounded like a gunshot. “You want The total lack of security in the to make a scene in Jack’s place?” basement was puzzling. Dozens of she said quietly in the silence that reporters were jammed up close followed. “For the media? You fuckto the subject who had purport- ing idiots!” She suggested we leave. edly murdered the President of We took it seriously. It was that way the United States, jockeying for everywhere. With the city’s lips position. Among them was a small- sealed, journalists ended up shartime hoodlum and club owner, Jack ing tidbits of information. Ruby, who had pulled a weapon At Schiller’s insistence, I had and shot Oswald from point-blank managed to rent a near-match to 172

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the 1961 blue-gray custom four-door Lincoln convertible presidential limousine Kennedy had been riding in when he was shot. Schiller’s idea had been to recreate the moment. He had a shot from Oswald’s supposed point of view from the window of the book depository in mind—an idea that proved impossible to carry out. On our last day in Dallas, I had to return the car. The route took me through Dealey Plaza. In the rearview mirror there were flashing lights where the police had cordoned off the site of the shooting. Suddenly, I burst into tears. Vaughan.roger@gmail.com

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