beginner/intermediate wire/metal
Tough Cuff wire and metal bracelet
Apply
fiber-working skills to wire to create a crocheted copper cuff.
by Stephanie Riger
T
hree gauges of copper wire make up the featured cuff. You’ll solder and shape
10-gauge (2.6mm) wire to make the cuff frame. Then you’ll use 18-gauge (1.0mm) multistrand wire to double crochet the panel, which you’ll then fasten to the frame, using 20-gauge (0.8mm) wire. For a different look, you can make the panel by working in a single crochet stitch, or you can use aluminum knitting needles to knit the wire instead.
The crocheted panel in the featured bracelet is a wire interpretation of traditional needlework. 6 1 /2 x 13 /4 in. (16.5 x 4.4cm). ar tjewelr ymag.com
1
2
Figure 1
Figure 2
crochet
Cuff frame
3
Figure 3
anatomy of a
hook
a b
c
d
[a] Hook: end used to catch yarn or wire and pull it through other loops [b] Throat: angled section behind the hook that guides yarn or wire onto the working area [c] Working area: part of the hook where you work the stitches [d] Finger hold: indentation for holding the hook with your fingers [e] Handle: end of the hook used for leverage and held in the palm of the hand
e
For more crocheting instructions, go to the Crochet Guild of America’s Web site, crochet.org.
Anneal and form the wire for the frame. Use wire cutters to cut a 14-in. (35.6cm) piece of 10-gauge (2.6mm) copper wire. Place the wire on your soldering surface and use a soft, bushy flame to anneal it. See Basic Techniques at artjewelrymag.com for information on annealing and soldering. Quench, pickle, and rinse the wire. File the wire ends smooth with a #2-cut, flat hand file, and bend the wire into a large oval, making sure that the ends of the wire are flush with each other. Solder the wire frame. Place the wire on your soldering surface and flux the ends of the wire. Place a pallion of medium solder where the wire ends touch, and use a soft, bushy flame to solder the join [1]. Quench, pickle, and rinse the oval frame. Shape the frame. Using a rawhide mallet and an anvil [2], shape the oval so that it is approximately 6 x 1¾ in. (15.2 x 4.4cm). Use the rawhide mallet and a bracelet mandrel to curve the oval ends toward each other [3].
Crocheted panel
Practice with yarn. Crocheting with wire is a bit challenging. If you haven’t crocheted before, see “Anatomy of a Crochet Hook,” left. Practice making a chain and stitching a few rows of double crochet with 3-ply yarn before you try to make the crocheted wire panel in the featured bracelet. We’ve provided double crochet instructions for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed, make a mirrored photocopy of the illustrations. Make a chain. Make a slipknot in a 5½-yd. (5.0m) piece of 18-gauge (1.0mm) copper wire, leaving a 3-in. (76mm) tail. Insert a size H (5mm) aluminum crochet hook in the knot [Figure 1]. Tighten the knot to make a loop around the working area of the hook. Bring the working wire over the working area of the hook. In traditional crochet, this is referred to as “yarn over,” or YO. We’ll refer to this as “wire over,” or WO. Slide the working wire to the throat of the hook, and then pull the hook and working wire through the loop [Figure 2], making a chain stitch. Continue to WO and pull the wire ar tjewelr ymag.com
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 7
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure 10
through the loop [Figure 3] until you have a total of 15 chain stitches or until your chain is 6 in. (15.2cm) long. You need a crocheted panel that is approximately 6 x 1¾ in. (15.2 x 4.4cm) to fit the cuff frame. Double crochet the first row. I made my double crochet stitches through only the back loop of each chain stitch to create a ridged pattern that gives the bracelet more texture. If you prefer, you could use a stitch of your choice, such as single crochet, or work your double crochet stitch through both loops of each chain stitch. WO and insert the hook into the back loop of the fourth chain stitch from the hook (do not count the loop on the hook), keeping the new loop on the hook [Figure 4]. WO and pull the working wire through the loop that is closest to the hook
[Figure 5]. You will be left with three loops on the hook. WO and pull the working wire through the first two loops on the hook [Figure 6]. This leaves you with two loops on the hook. WO and pull the working wire through the remaining two loops on the hook [Figure 7]. This leaves you with one loop on the hook [Figure 8] and one complete double crochet stitch. WO and insert the hook into the back loop of the next chain stitch. Repeat the steps illustrated in Figures 5–8 to complete the second double crochet stitch. Continue to double crochet to the end of the chain. Turning chain. Make three chain stitches and turn your work around [Figure 9]. This is called “turning chain.” The three chain stitches provide the proper row height for
Figure 6
4 the next row of double crochet stitches. Double crochet across the chain as you did to stitch the first row. Work the last double crochet in the back loop of the last chain stitch [Figure 10]. Measure the panel. Check the fit of the crocheted panel on the frame. If you stitched tightly, you may need to crochet another row. Although the wire does not stretch, you can use your hands to pull the panel to loosen the stitches for some additional width or length [4]. Tie off the end. At the end of the last row of double crochet, leave a 3-in. (76mm) tail of working wire. Cut the wire and pull the tail through the remaining loop to finish off the panel [Figure 11].
ar tjewelr ymag.com
Process photos by Stephanie Riger.
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Figure 11
materials ■
Copper wire: ■ 10-gauge (2.6mm), 14 in. (35.6cm) ■ 18-gauge (1.0mm), multistrand, 5½ yd. (5.0m) ■ 20-gauge (0.8mm), 39 in. (1m)
tools & supplies Wire cutters Hand file: #2-cut flat ■ Soldering station: torch, solder (medium), fireresistant surface (soldering pad, firebrick, or charcoal block), pickle pot with pickle, flux, copper tongs ■ Rawhide mallet ■ Anvil ■ Bracelet mandrel ■ Yarn: 3 ply (optional) ■ Crochet hook: size H (5mm) aluminum ■ Knitting needles: aluminum (optional) ■ Sandpaper: 400 grit ■ Pliers: chainnose ■ ■
Assembly
Secure the wrapping wire. Cut a 39-in. (1m) piece of 20-gauge (0.8mm) copper wire (this will be your working wire). Use 400-grit sandpaper to smooth the wire ends. Beginning at one end of the frame, tightly wrap the working wire around it three times. Attach the crocheted panel. Fit the panel against the frame so that the tail on one end of the panel aligns with the three wraps you just made on the frame. Fold the tail back against the panel. Holding the panel tightly against the frame, use the working wire to wrap the tail and edge of the panel around the frame [5]. Continue to attach the panel to the frame, inserting the working wire through the loops of the crocheted stitches at the edge of the panel. Be careful not to split the crocheted stitches with the working wire. When you reach the remaining tail, tuck it against the crocheted panel and wrap around it as you did the first tail.
Stephanie Riger knitted her way through classes in college and did macramé through graduate school. She began making jewelry about eight years ago and quickly became addicted to wire crochet, which she teaches in the San Francisco Bay area. Recently, Riger has been doing more metalsmithing and wire wrapping. To see more of her work, visit her Web site, stephanieriger.com.
suppliers 18-gauge (1.0mm) multistrand (“stranded”) copper wire (American Science & Surplus, 888.724.7587, sciplus.com) ■ 10-gauge (2.6mm) and 20gauge (0.8mm) copper wire (Rio Grande, 800.545.6566, riogrande.com) ■ Crochet hook (local craft and fabric stores) ■
Finish off the wraps. When you have worked all the way around the form, tightly wrap the working wire around the frame a few times. Cut off any excess wire, file the end with 400-grit sandpaper, and use chainnose pliers to press the end against the frame.
The crocheted panel is secured to the sturdy cuff frame with wraps of 20-gauge (0.8mm) copper wire. ar tjewelr ymag.com
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