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beginner metal clay/metal
Image-Transfer Technique for Metal WORKS ON METAL AND METAL CLAY
Use
image-transfer solution to add photocopies to your metal jewelry. by Sherri Haab
The panels of this bracelet are decorated with 3 ⁄4 x 7 ⁄ 8 -in. (19 x 22 mm) image transfers of copyright-free pictures.
A
fter jamming two photocopiers with
solution that could be used with a certain type
decal-transfer paper at my local copy
of laser copy paper. I experimented with the
center, I knew I’d have to find a different
solution and this paper until I developed a
approach to achieving my goal of adding
technique to successfully transfer photocopied
images to metal clay and other metal surfaces.
images onto metal clay.
My failed attempts motivated me to keep searching for a better method. Eventually, I stumbled upon just the right solution — a water-based transfer-agent
My technique works with copies of your own photographs, artwork, or copyright-free art. The resulting durable image looks as though it’s printed directly on the metal’s surface.
© 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.
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materials
Before you start
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Select high-contrast images (i.e., they have well-defined areas of dark and light) that are sharply focused with crisp lines.
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TIP: Use the “mirror” setting on the photocopier to make copies that will have the same orientation as the original after they are transferred. This is particularly important if you are copying text!
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tools & supplies ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
Use either a color or black-and-white toner-based photocopier to make copies onto Image Transfer Solution (ITS) laser copy paper. Ink-jet copies do not work with this process! The copy paper you need for this project is a little thicker than average copy paper. You may need to set the photocopier on its “thicker” paper setting to prevent paper jams. Practice this transfer technique on scrap metal to get a feel for the process.
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1
Prepare the metal’s surface
Images adhere better to a surface that is flat and slightly rough. Rub a dry brass brush over the area of the metal where you’ll place your image.
ITS laser copy paper Fired metal clay piece with a flat surface, or metal sheet Image Transfer Solution
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Brass brush Wet/dry sandpaper: 600 grit Soft cotton cloth Paintbrush: flat tip Hair dryer (optional) Oven, toaster oven, or craft heat tool Wet/dry polishing paper: 1200 grit Liver of sulfur (optional) Renaissance wax (optional)
suppliers ■
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Image Transfer Solution, ITS laser copy paper (www.sherrihaab.com, www.pmcsupply.com) Craft heat tool (local craft stores) Sandpaper, polishing paper (Rio Grande, 800.545.6566, www.riogrande.com) Renaissance wax (Restoration Products, 772.219.0436, www.restorationproduct.com)
Use 600-grit sandpaper to remove all dirt and oils from the image area of the metal and to give the surface tooth. This area shouldn’t have any shiny spots. Rinse the metal with water to remove the sandpaper dust, and then dry the metal with a soft cloth.
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Transfer the image
Cut your photocopied image to match the dimensions of the image area of your metal. Brush an even layer (about 1 mm thick) of Image Transfer Solution onto the image area of your metal. While the solution is still wet, proceed to the next step.
Process photos by Sherri Haab.
2
Press your photocopy image-side down onto the wet solution. Use your fingers to carefully apply pressure to the paper, pressing from the center of the paper outward to the edges to remove any air bubbles. The paper should be in full contact with the metal to achieve a good transfer.
Remove excess solution from the back of the paper and from the paper’s edges, using the corner of a damp paper towel. NOTE: Excess solution left on the back of the paper will make the paper more difficult to remove later. Also, excess solution on the metal will act as a resist to any patina you might want to add later. Allow the paper to dry completely. You can either let it dry overnight or use a hair dryer to speed up the process.
Soak the cooled assembly in water for about 10 minutes. Then remove the assembly from the water and use your fingers to gently rub the paper off, working from the center outward. Dip the assembly in water and use your fingernails to scrape away any remaining paper, but be careful not to remove the edges of the image.
Next, you need to heat-set the image to make a durable transfer. Place the metal in a preheated oven (or toaster oven) set to 325°F (163°C), and bake for 30 minutes. NOTE: As an alternative to using an oven, place the assembly on a heat-resistant surface and use a heat gun (craft heat tool) to cure the piece for about 2 minutes. IMPORTANT: Allow the piece to cool completely before you do the next step!
After you remove the paper, a thin layer of paper fibers will remain, leaving a white film over your image. Working underwater (I’ve removed the assembly from the water to show this step), use a piece of 1200-grit wet/dry abrasive polishing paper to remove the remaining paper fibers. Don’t rub too hard or sand too long, or you could begin to remove some of your image. If you have difficulty with this step, see “Troubleshooting Tips,” page 4. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
3
Finish your piece
troubleshooting
tips
To successfully transfer an image to metal, make sure to:
Dry the surface of your piece with a soft cotton cloth. If desired, add a liver of sulfur patina to the metal according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Rinse and dry the piece.
Whether or not you patinate your piece with liver of sulfur, you need to seal the image. Either use the cloth to apply a light coat of Renaissance wax, or apply a coat of transfer solution.
Sherri Haab is a best-selling craft author who has published more than 22 books. She’s also a certified metal clay instructor who leads numerous craft and jewelry-making workshops internationally. Haab has released DVDs on working with both metal clay and resin and has appeared on several television programs (HGTV, DIY, and PBS). She lives with her family in Springville, Utah. You can contact her through her Web site, www.sherrihaab.com.
online extra To watch a video tutorial on how to add a liver of sulfur patina to metal, go to www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.
• Use toner-based copies instead of ink-jet copies. • Rough up the surface of your metal, and sand it to remove dirt and oils before you transfer your image. • Apply a thick enough layer of transfer solution to the metal. If you brush on only a very thin layer, the image will not transfer to the metal properly. • Press the paper into the wet solution so that the paper makes complete contact with the surface of the metal. • Heat-set the image according to the project instructions, and be sure to allow the heat-set assembly to cool completely before you attempt to remove the copy paper.
What if... The paper won’t come off? • Excess transfer solution probably dried to the back of your paper. If you can’t remove the paper, see the next suggestion. You’re not satisfied with the result of your image transfer? No problem. • Start over. Simply use 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper to wet-sand the image off the surface of your metal. The liver of sulfur solution left a spotty patina? • Excess transfer solution has dried on the surface of the metal and acted as a resist when you added your patina. • See the previous suggestion to learn how to remove your image. • Then, be careful to remove all excess transfer solution before you heat-set your image. • Or, remove your unwanted image and then add the liver of sulfur patina to the metal before you transfer your new image. Rough up and clean the image area of your piece. Then apply transfer solution and transfer the image.
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