CHANEL

CHANEL Cruise 2021/22 Show Finale ©CHANEL

CINEMATIC Luminary

CHANEL PRESENTS AN OTHERWORLDLY SAVOIR FAIRE FOR ITS CRUISE 2021/22 COLLECTION

In 1960, French surrealist director Jean Cocteau released his black and white classic, “Testament of Orpheus”, where Cocteau played a time-travelling French poet. Apart from its sui generis plot, the film also had one of the most hauntingly beautiful locations shot at the Carrières de Lumières (“Quarries of Light”) located in the tranquil village of Les Baux-de-Provence in Southern France. The late Gabrielle Chanel also had a keen friendship with the aforementioned French director and for her Cruise 2021/22 collection CHANEL’s Artistic Director, Virginie Viard, decided to draw inspiration from these iconic figures and their prominent works. "Because Gabrielle Chanel was close to Cocteau, and I love the film “Testament of Orpheus”. In par-

ticular this magnificent scene: a man with a black horse's head descends into the Carrières de Lumières, his silhouette cut out against the very white walls,” explained Viard.

And rightfully so, Viard’s Cruise 2021/22 location is nothing short of extraordinary. The Carrières de Lumières have been operating for many decades now, where tourists and locals alike can enjoy spectacular sound and light shows (the latest being Vincent van Gogh’s exhibition) within the three-giant cave-like rooms inside the mountain. For the show, models walked past the dark cave walls, illuminated only by Cocteau’s star symbols, before descending down the white stairs to walk among the ancient giant walls elevated by the warm Provence sunlight. Based on the simplicity, precision, and the poetry one finds in Cocteau's films, Viard undoubtedly envisioned a highly graphic show. And thus, the Cruise Collection resorts to the dramatic black-and-white theme, with standout pieces such as a gorgeous long white shirtdress and black macramé cape, along with a white tweed jacket embroidered with lucky charms and a black dress in velvet and leather.

Staying true to Viard’s rock-and-roll attitude, the Cruise Collection evokes punk elements in its styling and designs. There are plenty of “punk” embellishments here with fringes, leather, beads and sequins. There are also tshirts bearing the face of the model Lola Nicon, like a true rock star, worn with tweed suits trimmed with wide braids and pointed silver Mary-Janes. Viard aptly explained the particular ensemble as “a look that recalls as much the modernity of the sixties as that of punk...”

Another exemplary Punk and Mod reference can be found in the polka dot leather jacket and pants ensemble worn with a macrame top. CHANEL’S famous tweed jacket and skirt returns in baby pink worn with a graphic tshirt and paired with fishnet stockings.

The Cruise Collection also zooms in on other details. Viard not only derived inspiration from Cocteau’s films, but also from Gabrielle Chanel’s recently restored apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. The two French figures had a deep understanding of fashion and style as well as their fondness of bestiary. Chanel’s own favourites: lions, female sphinxes and deer can be found all over her apartment. Therefore, it’s only fitting for Viard to revive them again and then print them, along with other symbols of the House, on a long negligee-style dress in pink-beige and black crêpe.

For accessories, CHANEL doubled down the punk rock elements with a zippered leather holster belt, handbag chain suspender, long pearl and golden chain necklaces, white ankle boots and chunky ivory bracelet with eccentric details to die for.

Dutch photography duo, Inez & Vinoodh, again staged the Cruise 2021/22 press kit featuring six silhouettes. Model Lola Nicon fronted the campaign where she lounged nonchalantly at Gabrielle Chanel’s legendary apartment at 31 rue Cambon, in Paris, surrounded by the designer’s bestiary and her symbols.