Eating & Drinking Osaka on a plate

Head to these specialist restaurants in the city for an introduction to Osaka’s most iconic foods.

By the Time Out Osaka editors

THE CULINARY CAPITAL OF JAPAN for centuries, Osaka is the city of kuidaore (‘eat until you drop’), where locals have an incredible appetite to match an almost absurd number of restaurants. Though the city is best known for its plethora of cheap (and delicious) eats, you’ll find remarkable variety in every genre and price range.

All that abundance can make deciding where to start a bit challenging, especially for first-time visitors, so we’ve put together this essential list to get you going. Each restaurant here specialises in a particular dish or style of cuisine, and put together they provide a lipsmacking introduction to Osaka’s diverse food culture.

in Osaka it’s oshizushi that rules the roost. It’s essentially pressed sushi, where vinegared rice and various toppings are placed in a mould and compressed together into a tight stack. Its origins go back to the mid-19th century, when Yoshino Sushi, a small shop in the city’s bustling Senba district, developed hakozushi or ‘box sushi’.

The Yoshino chefs started placing ingredients in layers inside wooden boxes, with the resulting cake then cut into bite-sized pieces. Pleasing to both the eyes and the taste buds, these sushi boxes became popular gifts and helped establish oshizushi as a quintessential Osaka delicacy. Now surrounded by glass-and-steel office buildings and run by the seventh generation of the founding family, Yoshino Sushi still does a roaring trade in its fancy boxes.

Yoshino’s most popular product is the standard Hakozushi box (¥1,760), filled with conger eel, sea bream, shrimp, omelette, shiitake mushrooms, nori seaweed and more – a gorgeous blend of colour, texture and taste.

à 3-4-14 Awajimachi, Chuo (Honmachi, Yodoyabashi stations). 06 6231 7181. yoshinosushi.co.jp. 10am-2pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols.

Osaka wine at Shimanouchi Fujimaru Winery

Osaka’s only urban winery occupies a handsome two-storey space. The giant tanks of the winemaking facility on the ground floor are visible from the Italian restaurant upstairs, where you get the opportunity to taste Fujimaru’s house wines – made entirely with grapes grown in vineyards around Osaka – plus about 15 other varieties by the glass (from ¥550). The food menu ranges from pasta to meat and fish, all just a quick metro ride away from the neon lights and tourist hordes of Dotonbori.

à Sanwa Bldg 1F, 1-1-14, Shimanouchi, Chuo (Matsuyamachi, Nagahoribashi stations). 12noon-11pm (last orders 9.30pm), closed Tue & Wed.

Fugu at Tetchiri Katsumasa

You’ll have to navigate through the residential streets of seaside Konohana to find the small but bustling Denpo fishing port and this gem of a seafood eatery. Katsumasa specialises in tetchiri, or hot pot with freshly cut fugu. The puffer fish is as fresh as it gets, only needing a quick plunge in the hot pot to be ready for eating. The restaurant also serves it several other ways, including as sashimi and karaage (deep fried). Multi-course tetchiri meals end with zosui, a congee-like dish prepared at the table by dunking rice into the hot pot, mixing it with the remaining dashi broth for a good 15 minutes. The result is a comforting, umami-packed porridge perfect for settling the stomach after all that fish and (inevitable) booze. à 5-12-16 Denpo, Konohana (Denpo Station). 06 6463 8622. 5pm-10pm (Nov-Feb until 11pm; last orders 30 minutes before closing), irregular hols.

Takoyaki at Takoriki

In a city with a takoyaki shop or stall on every corner, singling out the best purveyors of these iconic octopus dumplings inevitably invites impassioned debate. What most Osakans can agree on, though, is that Takoriki deserves a place on the podium.

Made only with the finest ingredients – topgrade konbu kelp and fish flakes for the dashi broth, the freshest octopus from Ise for filling –Takoriki’s dainty creations taste heavenly even without the obligatory splash of special sauce. At ¥1,100 for a serving of 14, they may be pricier than the average streetside takoyaki, but you’re getting some serious bang for your yen. Do like the locals and pair your boat-shaped plate of goodness with beer or natural wine – and don’t forget to explore the specials. Takoyaki gratin, anyone?

Momiji tempura at Hisakuni Kousendo

The brilliantly red and orange maple woods of Minoh attract hordes of visitors every autumn. Though the momiji leaves can only be witnessed in their full glory between November and December, they can be eaten year round. Momiji tempura, or maple leaves fried in batter, is the area’s most popular edible speciality.

Hisakuni Kousendo near Minoh Station has been serving these moderately sweet, crunchy snacks since 1940. It always has a fresh batch ready, though you’ll need to call and book ahead to get your hands on one during autumn leaves season. à 1-1-40 Minoh, Minoh city (Minoh Station). 072 721 2747. hisakuni.net/hisakuni/index.html. 9.30am-6pm, closed Thu.

The shop grows its own trees on a nearby mountainside to ensure a steady supply of the 100-percent organic and silky soft leaves. Unlike your usual maples, these trees are of a variety with certified edible leaves, which are harvested in early autumn, washed and pickled in salt for a year before being fried one by one. (Note: Minoh is also spelt as Minoo.)

Yakitori at Ayamuya

Michelin-starred dining doesn’t always mean crisp white tablecloths and formal dress codes. This homestyle restaurant in Fukushima, for instance, became the first yakitori restaurant in Osaka to earn a Michelin star with its simple yet utterly delicious morsels of grilled chicken.

The restaurant sources whole Tamba chicken, a prized breed known for its flavourful and tender meat. What sets Ayamuya apart is its innovative approach to seasoning the skewers. Depending on the type of chicken, they may be seasoned with white soy sauce or a blend of spices, enhancing the unique flavour profile for each skewer. The catch is that you’ll have to make a reservation online in advance.

à 5-17-39 Fukushima, Fukushima (Shin-Fukushima, Fukushima stations). 06 6455 7270. ayamuya.myconciergejapan.net. 5.30pm until finish, closed Sun & hols.

à 1-6-1 Kawarayamachi, Chuo (Tanimachi 6-chome Station). 06 6191 8501. takoriki.jp. 12noon-4pm (last orders 3.30pm), 6pm-12midnight (10pm), closed Mon & Tue.

Pork buns at Futami no Butaman

Despite its city-wide fame, Futami no Butaman has only one location and specialises in a single product: house-made pork buns. The small store is located at a corner on Namba Nankai street, a fiveminute walk from Nankai Namba Station.

The fluffy treats, which come with a slightly sweet onion and pork filling, only cost ¥230 apiece. The pork buns here are significantly bigger than those found at convenience stores and are rather filling, so you’ll want to come hungry.

à 3-1-19 Namba, Chuo (Namba, Osaka-Namba stations). 06 6643 4891. 11am to 8pm, closed Thu (except hols).