9 minute read
Travel & Hotels
THIS BEACH…
….is only three hours from Tokyo
You don’t have to put up with the party people of Zushi or the crows of Kamakura. Add an extra hour or so on to your travel time and you will find a better beach. Self-confessed white-sand snob Annemarie Luck takes you there
If you happen to hail from a city that’s blessed with white sands and turquoise seas, we know how you felt when you first set out to explore Tokyo’s closest beaches. Even if you were prepared for the black volcanic sand, you most likely didn’t enjoy having to dodge bits and pieces of garbage while swimming. And if you visited in the run-up to the July/August summer season, you probably didn’t enjoy being serenaded by the sounds of construction (seasonal bars, if newbies are wondering) rather than the gentle lapping of waves. We are here to tell you not to give up. The beach of your dreams is just a few hours away.
Japan’s answer to the Amalfi Coast It may be a stretch to say this, but when we spent a long weekend discovering Shimoda’s coves and sandy stretches, we felt the kind of wonder that can only come with racing on a scooter between Italy’s Sorrento and Positano. Shimoda is part of Shizuoka Prefecture, which is situated along the Izu Peninsula, and boasts nine main beaches all worth visiting.
We stayed at Shimoda Tokyu Hotel toppings like camembert. Shirahama and, on our first morning, we wandered is the most popular beach but we to the end of the hotel’s garden path to a steep set of stairs that took us Swim opted for the neighbouring and less busy Shirahama Ohama. It’s a long all the way down past the hotel’s leafy pool area to a narrow road. Just a few metres on, we discovered a small, your way through stretch of soft pale sand and the water is warm and as blue as the sky. As dusk fell and a breeze picked up, we quiet patch of sand overlooking a bay of emerald water. This beach is called Nabetahama. Make sure you take a tiny jumping fish sipped on hot coffee and watched the clouds turn to candyfloss. On the other side of town is walk along the rocky sidepath until you’re within Tatadohama beach, which you can get to by swimming distance from the shore. Dive in and taking a bus from Izukyu-Shimoda Station – swim your way through tiny jumping fish who look we picked up bus timetables from the Tourist as happy as you’re bound to feel. Association, which also rents out bicycles.
That afternoon we walked all the way from Tatadohama is where the surfers go. The our hotel to Shirahama Ohama beach, through beachfront is lined with campervans with open the old but charming town and then along the boots facing the ocean, giving it a wonderfully coastal road as it curved up and down around the casual atmosphere, with surfers changing in mountain, giving us views of beautifully clear blue and out of wetsuits, and dads teaching sons ocean below. We stopped for lunch at Ra-maru, to bodyboard. The bay is completely enclosed which is at the harbour in the same complex as by a high wall of foresty mountain and as the sun the Shimoda Tourist Association and famed for its dipped behind it, we lay back and wished we never delicious crunchy-fried fish burgers served with had to leave.
FOUR MORE BEACHES ON OUR RADAR
Shirahama beach is the most popular in Shimoda, but Shirahama Ohama (right and top) is less crowded while Nabetahama (right, middle) is like your very own private emerald bay
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
How to get to Shimoda The Superview Odoriko (a limited express train on the Tokaido line) runs from Tokyo Station to Izukyu-Shimoda Station. Or, the shinkansen runs from Tokyo to Atami, where you need to change to a local train to Shimoda. Both journeys take about two hours and 45 minutes. You can save a bit of money by taking a local train from Tokyo via Atami and journey time is about 3.5 hours.
While you’re there Take a ride up the Shimoda ropeway, just near the station, to the top of Mt Nesugata. From here you get an excellent view of the whole town, the bay dotted with islands, and the surrounding mountains. tinyurl.com/ TOTshimoda-ropeway
Ra-maru 1-1 Sotogaoka, Shimoda-shi, Shizuoka. 0558 27 2510. 10am-4.30pm. Shimoda Tokyu Hotel 5-12-1, Shimoda-shi, Shizuoka. 0558 22 2411. shimoda.tokyuhotels.com.
Shimoda Tourist Association 1-1 Sotogaoka, Shimoda-shi, Shizuoka. 0558 22 1531. shimoda-city.info/ index_e.html. 9am-5pm daily.
Shimoda ropeway Isshiki
Isshiki The cosy back garden of the Emperor’s summer home, this beach is far more relaxed than crowded, noisy Zushi which is just around the corner of the bay. Look forward to trees, rocky outcrops, paddle boarding and chic beach bars during high season. How to get there: From Shinjuku Station, take the Shonan-Shinjuku line to Zushi (about an hour), then take the bus to Sangaoka stop (20 minutes). Cross the road and walk down a short pathway.
Kujukuri CNN called it a ‘little Hawaii’. We might not go that far, but it does score points for being the second-longest beach in Japan and only a couple of hours from Tokyo. This 66km-long stretch of sand in Chiba extends from Cape Gyobu (in Iioka, south of Choshi) to Cape Daito (in Misaki) and is ideal for swimming, surfing and other watersports. How to get there: From Tokyo, take the limited express Wakashio to Oami Station (50 minutes), then switch to the Togane line to Togane Station (10 minutes), then take a bus bound for Katagai and get off at Katagai Station (30 minutes).
Araihama A baby beach in comparison to Kujukuri, this little cove is only 150m long but visitors consistently praise its clear water and green surroundings. Aburatsubo Marine Park (www.aburatsubo.co.jp) is nearby, featuring an aquarium and views of Sagami Bay. How to get there: From Shinagawa, take the Keikyu line to Misakiguchi Station (one hour and 10 minutes), then hop on bus no. 4 for about 13 minutes to Aburatsubo (the last stop). Walk towards Aburatsubo Marine Park; just before it, turn left at the forest path which leads to the beach.
Uchiura There’s not much information available about this short beach that’s found in Chiba’s Suruga Bay, but we take that as a good sign. It means you’ll be primarily hanging with the locals. It’s most noted for its calm, warm water and beautiful coral. You will have to put up with passing traffic though as there’s a road running behind the beach. How to get there: From Tokyo, take the limited express Wakashio to Awakominato Station (one hour and 50 minutes). The beach is just a short walk away.
Travel & Hotels POOLS WITH A VIEW
Sky Pool at Keio Plaza Hotel Take a break and swim in the midst of Shinjuku’s concrete jungle. The Sky Pool, on the 7th floor of the hotel’s main tower, boasts an impressive city view, blue skies and even a little poolside greenery. Prices vary by the hour – it’s a bargain to come on weekdays after 5pm and enjoy the pool for only ¥1,200. Ladies get half price (¥2,000) and a free mini bottle of body lotion from L’Occitane every Monday and Tuesday (except for August 10 and 11). See, you don’t need to leave the city to take a (mini) vacation. Jun 27 to Sep 13. 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku, Tochomae stations). 03 3344 0111. tinyurl.com/TOTsky2015. 9am-8pm, last admission 7.30pm. ¥4,000 before 3pm, ¥2,400 after 3pm, ¥1,200 after 5pm. Check the website for full admission details. Garden Pool at ANA InterContinental Tokyo The ANA InterContinental Hotel at Roppongi’s Ark Hills opens up its luxury garden pool for the summer months, providing a rare opportunity for aquatic entertainment with views of Tokyo Tower and the surrounding skyscrapers. The 20x13m pool is spacious by Tokyo standards, while the surrounding deck area is great for hanging out and enjoying a few drinks in the sun. Finally, the night-time lightup is a worthy combo of big-city aesthetics and a resort atmosphere. Jun 27 to Sep 30. 1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato (TameikeSanno Station). 03 3505 1111. tinyurl.com/ TOTpool-ANA. 8am-7pm, Jul 25-Aug 31 until 9pm. ¥7,000. Check the website for full admission details. Garden Pool at Hotel New Otani Forget you’re in the big city at the New Otani’s expansive (and expensive!) outdoor pool, decorated like a tropical resort and featuring a poolside restaurant serving West Coast-style burgers and fruity cocktails. After dark, it changes atmosphere and name, becoming the Pool by Night The ‘O’ Lounge – the pool will be lit up, while DJ gigs usually take place from Monday to Friday. Garden Pool: Jul 18-Sep 13. 9am-7pm. ¥12,000, Sat-Sun & Aug 10-14 ¥20,000. Pool by Night The ‘O’ Lounge: Jul 24-Sep 12. Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm. ¥5,500. Prices include towel, bathrobe, deck chair rental and locker use. Check the website for full admission details. 4-1 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda (AkasakaMitsuke, Nagatacho stations). 03 3265 1111. tinyurl.com/TOTpoolotani.
POOLS WITH A VIEW
Forget you’re in the big city at New Otani’s ‘tropical resort’ pool
Grand Blue at Grand Pacific Le Daiba A resort hotel in Odaiba, the building offers great views over Tokyo and a fantastic night vista over the ocean. Best of all, you can swim while marvelling at Rainbow Bridge. The pool is one of the most luxurious in Tokyo and is equipped with food and drink stalls. Inside, the hotel’s furniture, amenities and restaurants are imbued with a sophisticated French vibe. Jul 11-Aug 30. 2-6-1 Daiba, Minato (Daiba, Tokyo Teleport stations). tinyurl.com/TOTgrandblue. 10am-6pm (last admission 5pm), on the day of Tokyo Bay’s fireworks festival, closed 2pm. July: ¥3,300 (SatSun & hols ¥7,200, after 3pm ¥3,300). August: adults ¥5,200 (Sat-Sun & Aug 8-18 ¥10,800, after 3pm ¥3,300). Check the website for full admission details. Swimming Pool at Tokyo Prince Hotel Fancy a dip in the shadow of Tokyo Tower? The Prince Hotel’s 25m outdoor pool is your destination. It’s a hit with both serious swimmers and those looking for a more laid-back spot. When you’re done with the two-lane pool, spread out on the spacious lawn and soak up the sun.There’s also a beer garden, just to round off the joy. Jul 1-Sep 6. 3-3-1 Shibakoen, Minato (Onarimon, Daimon, Hamamatsucho stations). tinyurl.com/ TOTpool-prince. 10am-6pm. ¥6,000, Sat-Sun & hols ¥10,000. Check the website for full admission details.
