tsunami comeback Tokyo: best city in the world

50 REASONS IS THE GREAT CITY IN THE W

S TOKYO Tokyo’s far too polite to boast, but let’s face it: this is one hell of a city. There’s a reason why everyone from William Gibson to Kanye West has fallen in love with the place: it’s a sprawling metropolis so crammed with ATEST distractions that everyone seems to get something slightly different out of it. Whether it’s the fashion, the world-class food, the respect for tradition, or the consuming pop-culture buzz – the recently anointed host of the 2020

WORLD Olympics always delivers. But why are we convinced it’s the best? We’ll give you 50 answers to that question... Words James Hadfield Photography Satoshi Asakawa

BECAUSE IT’S FINALLY GOT ITS MOJO BACK

When Japan’s economic bubble burst in the late ’80s, it sent the nation into an economic and existential funk that ended up lasting for two decades. Tokyo didn’t slump nearly as badly as other parts of the country, but there was a long stretch where it felt like the capital was drifting listlessly rather than hurtling into the future. Not any more: while the 2020 Olympics look set to provide the city with a huge ego boost, that’s just the latest thing to smile about. Whether it’s forward-thinking projects such as Tokyo Skytree and the recent redevelopment of the Marunouchi and Shibuya areas, or the fact that we’ve had a change in governor, the city is back on track again.

Because fashion is a way of life When it comes to fashion, Tokyoites put most of the civilised world to shame. From junior high school kids to senior citizens, people here invest painstaking effort in keeping up appearances – and that includes a nearly slavish devotion to the latest trends. Spend the afternoon on Harajuku’s Cat Street and you can enjoy an ad hoc catwalk parade, as shoppers flaunt their newest outfits. Head to nearby Omotesando for a ritzier, more mature crowd, or explore the second-hand clothing shops and punky boutiques of Koenji and Shimokitazawa. The fashion world is less stratified – and more accessible –than it used to be: even in upmarket Ginza, you’ll find flagship branches of Uniqlo and Gap alongside the high-end boutiques and old department stores.

BECAUSE WE HAVE MORE THAN ONE FUJI If you can’t be bothered to climb all 3,776 metres of Mount Fuji, relax. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, devotees built replicas of the peak around Tokyo, using rocks from the mountain itself, and you can still find 50 of these mini mountains – known as fujizuka– today. Naoki Inose Governor of Tokyo ‘Tokyo is a dynamic city that also happens to be the safest in the world. It maintains a train network that runs by the minute, and a bullet train that stops at locations precise to within a centimetre. You don’t have to worry if you lose your wallet –¥3 billion in cash is returned to its owners every year. Such sophistication, and the deeply ingrained spirit of hospitality among its people, are what make Tokyo the best city.’

Because we have Golden-gai For decades, Shinjuku’s legendary drinking quarter has provided a haven for musicians, writers and lowlifes. Like a relic from a bygone era, it also offers the most intimate night out imaginable: there are more than 200 bars and eateries crammed into its alleys, and most only have space for half a dozen people. Find out more on page 68 with our expert guide.

Because we have tropical islands Imagine if New York included a chunk of the Bahamas. That’s kind of what the deal is here. Nicknamed the Galapagos of the Orient, the remote Ogasawara Islands are home to a plethora of unique and diverse flora and fauna. Owing to an administrative quirk, they’re also technically part of Tokyo – despite lying 1,000km from the rest of it.

Because we have the world’s best domestic airport – and that’s official Already lauded by the likes of Monocle magazine, Tokyo Haneda added another gong to the list when it picked up the Skytrax award for ‘World’s Best Domestic Airport’ in 2013. Convenient, efficient and spotlessly clean, it also packs enough shops and restaurants to make you want to get there well before your flight leaves.

BECAUSE YOU CAN GO HIKING WITHOUT LEAVING THE CITY LIMITS Tokyo residents pining for the great outdoors don’t have to go far: the western reaches of the prefecture are prime hiking territory. Mount Takao, in suburban Hachioji, is the most-visited peak in the world, drawing 2.6m people each year. If you’re seeking peace and quiet, head for the more remote Okutama area instead.

Because we have a record-breakingly tall tower Rising to a whopping height of 634m, the Tokyo Skytree (www.tokyoskytree.jp.en) is officially the tallest tower in the world, beating down its rival in Dubai (the 828m Burj Khalifa is technically a ‘structure’). Because our XXX-rated shops are nice places to shop Trust the city that gave us the Tenga to take sex shops to another level. No mere dens of iniquity, stores such as Pop Life Department M’s in Akihabara make picking up whips and corkscrew butt plugs feel thoroughly normal. And if you ever wondered what a ¥200,000 phallus looks like, you can find out at Shibuya’s C’est Bien (03 3464 6538, www.cestbien.jp).

BECAUSE IT’S THE HOME OF THE LOVE HOTEL

Adulterers don’t have to settle for a squalid motel in Tokyo – they can live it up in style at one of the city’s love hotels. Unfailingly discreet and often gloriously tacky, these romantic getaways are worth visiting even if you aren’t up to anything naughty. And there are literally hundreds of them.

Because we have all-night nail salons In a city that prioritises convenience, there’s no such thing as a silly time of day to get a manicure. Whether you go to Roppongi’s Beauty Planet (03 3403 4114, www.b-planet.net), Ikebukuro’s Ame-Doigt (03 5944 9837, www.amedoigt.com) or Shinjuku’s Aya (03 3204 2139, www.nail-aya.com), there are a host of late-opening beauty salons around the city, eager to give your talons a makeover in the wee small hours of the morning.

Because we have so many wonderfully loveable freaks Pity the tourists who still head to Harajuku on a Sunday expecting hordes of cosplay kids. That scene’s long gone, but there are still all kinds of nattily attired oddballs to be found here –including the rockabillies in Yoyogi Park and the marauding zombie enthusiasts – so that you can always find someone who’s a bigger freak than you.

Because it has a shrine for every occasion – even finding love Whether you’re looking for success in exams, good business fortune, or just a cure for your ailments, Tokyo has a shrine to answer your prayers. That’s even true of people pining for true love –just point your compass towards Tokyo Daijingu in Iidabashi.

BECAUSE OUR CONVENIENCE STORES ARE ACTUALLY CONVENIENT

For an example of Japanese retail at its most hyper-evolved, just look to the humble convenience store. FamilyMart, 7-Eleven, Lawson and co appear to be locked in an eternal struggle to make life as easy as possible for the average consumer. More than just somewhere to stock up on snacks, they peddle a dizzying range of services: you can send packages by courier, get a cup of freshly ground coffee or pick up some clean underwear. Oh, and there are more than 5,000 of them scattered around the city, almost all of them open 24 hours a day. Like we said: convenient. Similarly, Tokyo’s pharmacies are also super progressive, with stores such as Sanzenri Yakkyoku (pictured), Matsumoto Kiyoshi and Tomod's offering everything from paste-on warming plasters to alcohol, all in one condensed, colourful outlet. Yuki Ota Olympic fencer ‘It’s the huge diversity of food here that makes Tokyo the greatest city in the world. We have a wide range of both fast and slow food, all of high quality. I also love that the city has so many different faces. Shibuya and Harajuku are known for having lots of young people incessantly hanging out. In Ginza you can shop for luxuries, Roppongi is famous for its nightlife and Asakusa is a very traditional sector.’

Gaisen dolls Sazae’s owner Shion, behind the bar, and (below), revellers cut loose to ’70s hits

Because it has one of the best gay bars in existence

Disco lives on at New Sazae bar –and writer Kyoichi Tsuzuki has been going there since the first time around

When you’re gay in Tokyo, Shinjuku their way into Ni-chome. One of the first, Ni-chome is the place to party. Spread in 1966, was a place called Sazae. across several blocks of narrow streets Yet labelling this place a ‘gay bar’ and packed with bars, the capital’s LGBT quarter doesn’t quite do it justice: it’s also an has a reputation to rival New York’s Christopher old-school dance club. When I first set Street – albeit in more coddled surrounds. foot there in the late ’70s, at the age By night, it’s the prime spot for the of 21 or 22, it was gay and lesbian crowd, who flock known as a ‘gay to clubs or watering holes; by day, disco’. Back then, if the bar culture gives way to the clientele of the quirky restaurants It’s particularly you pushed open the door in the early hours, you’d be and coffee shops. And like nearby Kabukicho, Ni-chome never seems to pause for breath: popular with ‘gaisen’ –blasted with the latest dance hits from that era. Fortunately, you’ll have a similar experience today. year-round, it’s the neighbourhood that never sleeps. Originally an inn town on the Japanese guys who prefer to ‘It’s a disco now more than ever!’ enthuses Shion (pictured), its owner since 1978, when the road out of Edo, Shinjuku took on a seedier guise as hook up with foreigners club moved to its current location and became ‘New Sazae’. Shion’s flamboyant personality the years is also a draw. A quarter French, passed; by the end of WW2, hewas born in the Nagasaki prefecture, and lost it had the dubious honour both parents as a child. After living with his of being Tokyo’s foremost grandfather in Lyon, France, he returned to Japan red-light district. However, to attend secondary school, and found work as a gay bars only started to fashion model. This led to a stint as a radio host, appear in the capital after and he was soon something of a star in Nagasaki. the war, first in the Next, Shion decided to pursue further education downtown districts of at Tokyo’s Sophia University, to guarantee his Ginza, Shinbashi, Ueno future here. Once in the capital, he fell in with the and Asakusa. These music and theatre scenes, which in turn led him gradually spread into and his friends to Sazae. He became a regular what’s now Shinjukucustomer there, it wasn’t long before he earned Sanchome, but it took his place on the other side of the counter. until the second half of But while the disco era would prove short-lived, the ’60s before they made New Sazae endured. These days, it’s particularly popular with gaisen– Japanese guys who prefer to hook up with foreigners and vice versa. According to Shion, the ratio of gay-tostraight clientele has recently shifted. ‘In the beginning, I’d say about 90 per cent of the people who came here were gay,’ he says. ‘But nowadays it’s more like 20 to 30.’ The number of straight, cross-dressing customers is also on the rise. ‘We welcome everyone and encourage them to let their hair down,’ adds Shion.

Open until 5am on weekdays and 7am at weekends, 365 days a year, the club is a perfect fit for the district that never stops dancing.

New Sazae: 2F, 2-18-5 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. 03 3354 1745. www.tinyurl.com/TOTsazae. Shinjuku-Sanchome station. 10pm-5am SunThu, 10.30pm-7am Fri, Sat, Sun. Entry is ¥1,000 and includes one free drink, after which everything (food and drinks) is ¥700.

Kyoichi Tsuzuki is the author of books including ‘Roadside Japan’ and ‘Tokyo Style’. www.roadsiders.com

Tsuyoshi Takashiro Videographer and DJ ‘The charm of Tokyo is the fact it exists as a place that’s both flat and excessive. Historical sites and cutting-edge venues stand side-by-side; culture that has existed here for thousands of years sits next to trends that have only been around since last month. In other words, there’s no hierarchy nor layers: everything is in excess. Excess wipes out the hierarchy.’

BECAUSE IT’S A POPCULTURE PARADISE

When you’ve got wacky girl group Momoiro Clover Z fronting public safety campaigns and even the Bureau of Sewerage boasting its own cute little mascot, it’s hard to take things too seriously. Pop culture infiltrates almost every aspect of life in Tokyo, such as the ever-present ‘image characters’ (the, often cartoon, ‘face’ of a brand), and the sound trucks that blast shoppers with upbeat J-pop ditties. Not for nothing has singer and Harajuku style icon Kyary Pamyu Pamyu practically become the city’s ambassador – and thanks to the likes of manga-influenced artist Makoto Aida, even the contemporary art world hasn’t been spared. Just be warned: if you’re an anime, manga, music, film, fashion or video game junkie, you might want to leave the credit card at home before embarking on a shopping trip here.

BECAUSE YOU CAN WATCH ENORMOUS MEN IN LOINCLOTHS WRESTLE IN THE NAME OF SPORT

National sports don’t get much quirkier than sumo wrestling, and even if you don’t understand the intricacies, it’s a hugely entertaining spectator sport. There are a total of six tournaments (basho) in Japan each year, and Tokyo’s Ryogoku Kokugikan hosts three of them – in January, May and September. Because we have the Mecca of Otaku: Akihabara It was once one of the dorkiest districts in Tokyo, but the increased cultural clout of Japan’s otaku (people with obsessive interests) has transformed Akihabara into a must-visit destination. Manga, anime, idolatrous pop – it’s all here, and although there aren’t as many electronics shops as there used to be, this is still the best place to score the most cuttingedge gadgets at bargain prices. Because you’ll never have to open a taxi door As if hailing a cab instead of schlepping to the nearest subway station didn’t make you lazy enough, in Tokyo you don’t even have to open the door yourself – the driver presses a button to do it for you. Brilliant. Because you won’t ever have to pay your own commuting costs When you’re looking for a new place to live in Tokyo, one of the things you won’t have to consider is the price of your commuter pass: most Japanese companies foot the bill for you. So there’s nothing stopping you from exploring the city. Because we have Tokyu Hands When people describe Tokyu Hands (www.tokyu-hands.co.jp/en) as the shop that sells everything, they’re exaggerating… but only a little. The multi-floor branches in Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ginza and Ikebukuro are the first port of call for shoppers seeking anything, whether kitchenware, party goods or DIY products.

BECAUSE YOU CAN BATHE IN HOT SPRING WATER

Living in one of the most volcanically active countries in the world has its perks. You’ll find natural hot springs throughout Japan, and that includes Tokyo. Try Oedo Onsen Mongatari for an Edo-era onsen theme park, or take a dip in the distinctive black kuroyu waters at neighbourhood bathhouses such as Shimizuyu in Musashikoyama. See page 73 for info on Izu Hot Springs, too.

Kyary Pamyu Pamyu Artist and pop star ‘On my world tour, I travelled around many countries and enjoyed the shopping and attractions. I loved every minute of it, but when the tour ended and I returned to Tokyo, I reflected and thought: Yeah, I really like Tokyo. In my opinion, what’s fascinating about the city is that certain buildings are very Japanese in style, like Tokyo Tower. My favourite place in Tokyo is Harajuku. There’s no place like it, where you can enjoy fashion and music so freely!’

BECAUSE LOST PROPERTY ACTUALLY GETS RETURNED – INTACT

So low is the fear of thieves in Tokyo that people often use their handbags to reserve seats while placing an order in coffee shops. And if you’re unfortunate enough to lose your wallet or bag, there’s a good chance it’ll be returned to the nearest station or police box… without anyone pinching the contents first.

Because you can sing karaoke in a hot tub Part karaoke box, part theme park, Lovenet in Roppongi offers some truly outlandish rooms. Best of all is the Aqua Suite, where you can warble your way through the hits from the comfort of a hot tub – and don’t worry, you can borrow a swimsuit if you’ve forgotten to bring your own.

Because you can watch big-name bands in intimate venues Grimes, Jake Bugg, Savages: artists who’ve already graduated to thousand-plus capacity venues in the US and Europe typically alight at smaller joints such as Club Quattro (03 3477 8750, www.clubquattro.com) when they come to Tokyo. Tickets may be pricey, but audiences are rewarded with the chance to see their new favourite bands up close and personal. Because it’s heaven for bookworms Print ain’t dead – at least not as far as Tokyo’s concerned. While e-books are still a rare sight on the city’s trains, you’ll discover literally thousands of bookshops here, including bibliophile wet dreams such as the gorgeous Daikanyama Tsutaya Books (above; www.tinyurl.com/TOTbooks). And you could lose a day browsing your way through the Jimbocho neighbourhood, home to an amazing 180 second-hand bookshops and street stalls. Because you can have coffee with exotic critters Cat cafés were just the beginning. In a city where many landlords forbid pets, people have to get creative – which might explain why Tokyo has coffee shops where you can cosy up not just with felines but with rabbits, goats and owls. Head to nearby Yokohama and they’ve even got a reptile café. See page 82 for a few Tokyo cats you might see gracing a venue near you.

BECAUSE WE HAVE VIBRANT STREET FESTIVALS YEAR-ROUND

Japan has a keen sense of tradition, and that’s as true of Tokyo as it is of anywhere else. One of the most conspicuous examples is the street festivals that crop up throughout the year, many of them enacting centuries-old rites in the traditional fashion: fuelled by generous quantities of sake and bonhomie. Events such as the massive Sanja Matsuri (pictured above) draw millions of spectators, but almost every neighbourhood seems to have its own portable shrines tucked away, ready for their own, smaller-scale festivities. Make friends with some locals in your area and you might even end up getting roped in to the action yourself.

BECAUSE WE HAVE THE MOST EFFICIENT TRANSPORT SYSTEM ON THE PLANET

Shifting the equivalent of a medium-sized country’s entire population is all part of a day’s work for the Tokyo transport system. The dense network of overland and underground rail lines manages to cover most of the city, which might explain why many residents consider car ownership a pointless extravagance. Sure, commuters love to grumble about the rush-hour crowds and (mostly insignificant) delays, but when you consider the volumes of people riding the trains every day, it’s remarkable how smoothly everything goes. And where else in the world do you get given special notes to pass on to your boss if your train is late?

Because it’s affordable Sure, Tokyo regularly tops surveys of the world’s most expensive cities. But if you stop shopping at import supermarkets and start eating more like locals, life here becomes a lot cheaper. Whether you frequent the ¥100 shops or neighbourhood grocery stores teeming with cheap seasonal produce, it isn’t hard to find bargains.

Because we have the best fireworks festivals in the world Fireworks aren’t just reserved for special occasions in Tokyo. Throughout summer, you can witness jaw-dropping displays of pyrotechnics pretty much every weekend in the capital – and best of all, they’re free.

Because there’s no such thing as ‘too niche’ here Want to drink in a bar devoted to model trains, airsoft guns or monster movies? In Tokyo, you can find all that and much more. Don’t believe us? Head to Nakano Broadway (5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano) and prepare to be amazed.

BECAUSE IT ISN’T THE END OF THE WORLD IF YOU MISS THE LAST TRAIN HOME

It may not have 24-hour public transport (yet), but Tokyo has multiple options for people who’ve missed their last train and don’t fancy drinking until dawn. Get an all-night package at a karaoke box, rent a booth in a manga café, head to a capsule hotel – the choice is yours. Keiichiro Shibuya Composer Composer and musician ‘Is Tokyo the number one city in the world? The strange thing about this question is that it doesn’t acknowledge the rest of Japan and its place between Tokyo and the rest of the world. But I think that’s the way it should be. Actually, I think what I love most about Tokyo is that it encourages such an innocent question to be asked.’

Because we have Don Quijote Like Tokyu Hands’ wayward sibling, Don Quijote (www.donki.com) is your go-to place for discount clothing, alcoholic spirits, toiletries, furniture, homeware, kinky costumes, sex toys, electronics and whatever else they’ve managed to cram into the cramped, chaotic aisles. And as if this insane eclecticism wasn’t enough, many of the branches – including Roppongi and Shinjuku – are open 24 hours.

Because it’s one of the safest metropolises on the planet Life in Tokyo can feel like being wrapped in a thick blanket sometimes. How many of us have stumbled home tipsy in the wee hours of the morning, without having to worry about getting relieved of our valuables on the way back? That’s because violent crime is a rarity here: assaults and muggings are practically unheard of, and unless you’re a member of the yakuza you’re unlikely to get bumped off (according to UN statistics, Tokyo’s homicide rate is a mild 0.4 per 100,000 people –compared to a more frightening 5.6 in New York). Of course, as with anywhere else, it’s still important to exercise caution – purse snatching is a problem, and bicycle theft is rife – but in general, peace of mind reigns supreme. And that’s nice to know.

EATING & DRINKING Ten gastronomic reasons Tokyo is top of the table BECAUSE THE FAST FOOD IS HILARIOUSLY OTT It may seem like a waste to come all this way only to go to a fast-food chain… but that’s until you’ve seen some of the bizarre, limited-edition offerings on the menu here, such as the truffleand chorizo-laced ‘premium’ burger that McDonald’s sold for merely a single day.

Because you can experience food as it really tastes (ie raw) Fish sashimi is not the only thing that gets served up raw in Tokyo. Look out too for sashimi made from beef, chicken and horse – or more esoteric options such as deer, boar and bear (no, really).

Because you won’t find better bartenders anywhere else The cult of the mixologist never really took off here – bartenders are far too busy perfecting the classics. The highballs at Star Bar (03 3535 8005) will be the best you’ve ever tasted. Because we have some seriously extreme eats Looking for something to revive a jaded palate? Try Asadachi (1-2-14 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku), a tiny restaurant found in the charmingly named ‘Piss Alley’, where the stomach-churning seasonal specials might include raw pig penis, grilled salamanders or frog sashimi – prepared right before your eyes from a live specimen.

BECAUSE WE’VE GOT THE BEST SUSHI This one’s a no-brainer, really. There are some mighty fine sushi joints to be found in other cities around the globe, but you just can’t beat the quality or range of Tokyo’s restaurants, from the three-Michelin-starred Sukiyabashi Jiro (03 3535 3600, www.sushi-jiro.jp) to scruffy counter shops in Tsukiji Market (see page 47). Hell, even the conveyor belt stuff ain’t bad.

Because we serve the tastiest pizza this side of Naples That old stereotype about Japanese perfectionism certainly seems to apply to the capital’s growing ranks of pizzaioli. While fans of American-style pies will find the offerings here a bit lacking, the Neapolitan treats dished out at pizzerias such as Da Isa (03 5768 3739, www.da-isa.jp) and Seirinkan (03 3714 5160, www.tinyurl.com/TOTseir) are arguably as good as anything you’d find in Italy.

Because our desserts are just downright sublime You’d never know from looking at people’s enviably svelte waistlines that this is a nation of sweet freaks. Try Tokuya in Harajuku (03 5772 6860, www.tinyurl.com/TOTtokuya) for elegant renditions of classic Japanese desserts such as warabi mocha i (jelly made from bracken starch, dipped in toasted soy bean flour), or indulge at one of the capital’s many foreign imports, such as Milan’s Gelateria Marghera (2-5-1 Azabu-Juban, Minato) and Honolulu pancake specialists Cafe Kaila (5-10-1 Jingumae, Shibuya). Well, you can always work it off the next day by climbing up Mount Fuji.

BECAUSE WE’VE GOT THE COSIEST BARS AND RESTAURANTS

Spaciousness is overrated. Some of the most memorable nights we’ve had in Tokyo were spent snuggled up at the counter in tiny restaurants and bars that would’ve struggled to fit more than ten people. The average neighbourhood has dozens of places like this – perfect for an intimate, personalised dining experience.

[ [ WHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLDWHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD ] ] BECAUSE OF FANTASTICBECAUSE OF FANTASTIC CHEFS LIKE SEIJI YAMAMOTO CHEFS LIKE SEIJI YAMAMOTO

Star fish Star fish Fruits of theFruits of the sea, RyuGin stylesea, RyuGin style

E E xperimental chef Seiji Yamamoto has put Modern Japanese cuisine on the map with his three-Michelin-starred restaurant, elements are difficult to come to grips with if you are not Japanese. For example, making sashimi involves more than just slicing up a traditional Chinese suppon, you can introduce people to flavours in chicken they didn’t even know existed before. xperimental chef Seiji Yamamoto has put Modern Japanese cuisine on the map with his three-Michelin-starred restaurant, elements are difficult to come to grips with if you are not Japanese. For example, making sashimi involves more than just slicing up a traditional Chinese suppon, you can introduce people to flavours in chicken they didn’t even know existed before. Nihonryori RyuGin. And he’s recently beenNihonryori RyuGin. And he’s recently been raw fish. The fish has to be fastedraw fish. The fish has to be fasted ‘If your food gains a reputation ‘If your food gains a reputation extending its vision even further with sisterextending its vision even further with sister for several days first, so the fleshfor several days first, so the flesh in Hong Kong then you’ve managed in Hong Kong then you’ve managed restaurants in Hong Kong (which opened in 2012) and Taipei (which is forthcoming). Despite all this, can be matured without puttingany stress upon it. There are a number to get across the spirit of Japanese cuisine. If you’re just copying Making sashimi restaurants in Hong Kong (which opened in 2012) and Taipei (which is forthcoming). Despite all this, can be matured without puttingany stress upon it. There are a number to get across the spirit of Japanese cuisine. If you’re just copying Making sashimi he found ten minutes to talk to us about Japan’s of processes at work in order to the same things that you can get involves more he found ten minutes to talk to us about Japan’s of processes at work in order to the same things that you can get involves more remarkable cooking.remarkable cooking. bring out the best flavour for raw consumption. What Japanese in Japan, it’s like printing counterfeit money and spending it than just slicing bring out the best flavour for raw consumption. What Japanese in Japan, it’s like printing counterfeit money and spending it than just slicing ‘What I’m hoping to communicate through‘What I’m hoping to communicate through cuisine is looking for now is how to abroad [laughs]. So I believe that up a raw fish cuisine is looking for now is how to abroad [laughs]. So I believe that up a raw fish Japanese cuisine is the richness of the country communicate these elements. Japanese cuisine is the richness of the country communicate these elements. there’s a really crucial period there’s a really crucial period itself. I don’t just mean our four seasons,itself. I don’t just mean our four seasons, ‘I take on trainees from Asia,‘I take on trainees from Asia, coming up.’ coming up.’ but also the concept of things being inbut also the concept of things being in Scandinavia, and otherEuropean countries inScandinavia, and otherEuropean countries in season. And the natural surroundingsseason. And the natural surroundings the hope that they are able to communicate Interview: Yuriko Yamada the hope that they are able to communicate Interview: Yuriko Yamada we have that allow these ideas to be awe have that allow these ideas to be a the things they learn at Ryugin to people Nihonryori RyuGin: 7-17-24, Roppongi, Minato. the things they learn at Ryugin to people Nihonryori RyuGin: 7-17-24, Roppongi, Minato. matter of fact.matter of fact. abroad. Through this, I hope Japaneseabroad. Through this, I hope Japanese 03 3423 8006. www.nihonryori-ryugin.com.03 3423 8006. www.nihonryori-ryugin.com.

‘If you look at Chinese cuisine, no‘If you look at Chinese cuisine, no cuisine can evolve.cuisine can evolve. 6pm-1am Mon-Sat, closed public hols. 6pm-1am Mon-Sat, closed public hols. matter who you are or where in the worldmatter who you are or where in the world ‘I do not know if our cooking can ‘I do not know if our cooking can you eat it, the same flavours come through. That’s because they are both already established you eat it, the same flavours come through. That’s because they are both already established globalise – it’s an easy thing to say, but it’s exceptionally difficult to do [laughs]. What I’m trying to do in Tenku ... and because we have plenty more globalise – it’s an easy thing to say, but it’s exceptionally difficult to do [laughs]. What I’m trying to do in Tenku ... and because we have plenty more types, a sort of lingua franca throughout the world. types, a sort of lingua franca throughout the world. Ryugin in Hong Kong is to take the ingredients that people there where he came from… Ryugin in Hong Kong is to take the ingredients that people there where he came from…

‘The sad part for me is‘The sad part for me is come into contact with through Tokyo has 14 triple-Michelin-starred come into contact with through Tokyo has 14 triple-Michelin-starred that Japanese cuisine hasn’t reached that point yet. Why? My opinion is that it’s dominated by elements that are not visible, and these MAIN IMAGE: YUHEI OHYAMA that Japanese cuisine hasn’t reached that point yet. Why? My opinion is that it’s dominated by elements that are not visible, and these Cantonese food, and tailor them using the spirit of Japanese cooking. There is really excellent chicken in Hong Kong, and if you use it in place of, for example, restaurants –the most in the world. QED.   Cantonese food, and tailor them using the spirit of Japanese cooking. There is really excellent chicken in Hong Kong, and if you use it in place of, for example, restaurants –the most in the world. QED.  

Discover Marunouchi

Vantage pointTokyo station and Marunouchi’s skyscrapers as seen from the KITTEbuilding LOCAL

Absorb history and the high life in this elegant and eminent district

Originally under water, the Marunouchi district was slowly claimed as it emerged from the sea in the 1590s by one of the most famous men in Japanese history, Tokugawa Ieyasu who established the Edo shogunate.

In the centuries that followed, Marunouchi became the site of the Tokyo mansions of more than 20 of the nation’s leading feudal lords, but by the late 19th century, times had changed. The 1868 Meiji Restoration saw the renowned Iwasaki family (of later Mitsubishi fame) move in, purchasing the land for ¥1.28 million.

Initially known as Mitsubishi Fields, it wasn’t long before the district was the most cosmopolitan locale in the country, and is

today situated between Tokyo station and the Imperial Palace – where it services as one of the largest business centres in the world.

Buildings made of brick that resembled London façades sprang up – followed by reinforced concrete offices that could have been transplanted from New York – many designed by famed architect Josiah Conder; early automobiles ran along the streets and Japan’s main rail hub, Tokyo station, opened nearby in 1914.

Although affected by the earthquake on September 1 1923, Marunouchi soon returned bigger and better than ever.

Redevelopment since has seen Marunouchi return to the fore of Japanese business on the

INSIGHT

FROM CASTLES TO SKYSCRAPERS Marunouchi’s historical milestones

The early days Edo-era (1603-1868) How the Marunouchi area first looked, with the then-Edo castle (top) and feudal lords’ mansions outlined.

Mitsubishi Fields c. 1890 Marunouchi when it was purchased for ¥1.28m by a member of the Iwasaki clan – founders of Mitsubishi. Soon after the area was nicknamed Mitsubishi Fields.

Mitsubishi Ichigokan c. 1894 Designed by British architect Josiah Conder, the original Mitsubishi Ichigokan was the first Western-style office building in the area. It was restored in 2009 and is now a museum.

Itcho New York c. From 1918 An early example of the modernist, American-style buildings in Marunouchi that came to be referred to as ‘Itcho New York’.

global front with today’s skyscrapers home to as many Fortune 500 companies as New York –and two more than London. At street level and atop of some of the taller buildings you will find some of the world’s most sophisticated storesand an array of amazing dining opportunities.

No visit to Tokyo is complete without a few hours in this ultra-modern corner of the city. And for those visiting in the future, access will be even easier thanks to the presence of Shin-Tokyo station (tentative name) and set to link both of Tokyo’s international airports in just an hour. Words: Mark Buckton Photography: Satoshi Asakawa

MARUNOUCHI TODAY

At the hub of all things business in modern-day Japan, this is how Marunouchi’s iconic skyline looks currently.

Instant Marunouchi! To find the latest Marunouchi landscapes, visit ‘marunouchigram’ at http://photo.marunouchi.com

And while you’re here…

… make sure you’ve sampled these essential Marunouchi experiences

SEE THE LIGHT FANTASTIC For an end-of-year winter display to remember, take a stroll down Nakadori Avenue. The luxury-branded street hosts a suitably lavish annual illumination featuring more than a million gold twinkling stars along a 1.2km route. More than enough to take your breath away. Oct 1-Feb 16 2014.

FILL YOUR PLATE Japanese food is famous the world over and much of it comes together in one place at one time with local treats from around the nation, and a food contest all can enjoy. Japan Food Festa is hosted by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, and can be found in various locations in central Tokyo. Nov 2 and 3.

EDIFY YOUR EARDRUMS The annual classical festival La Folle Journée (‘Days of Enthusiasm’) will take over Tokyo International Forum in early May 2014, with a series of more than 300 concerts by world-class musicians. The festival

Bon chance! The Marunouchi Bon Odori Festival A light stroll Naka-dori Avenue is a winter wonderland

also features free events such as concerts around the Marunouchi area. Early May 2014.

DANCE ARM IN ARM WITH THE ANCESTORS There are few things more characteristically Japanese than heading to a summertime ‘bon’ festival to welcome ancestral spirits back to earth. Don a yukata, pick up a bite from food stalls and have a go at Japan’s most traditional of dances at the Marunouchi Bon Odori Festival, where you can while the evening away with the locals. End of July 2014.

GO SUBTERRANEAN SHOPPING –AT AN UNDERGROUND MARKET Twice a month, descend underground to the walkway that links Marunouchi with Tokyo station to Marunouchi Gyoko Marché (market), for your chance to pick up some of the best local produce the city has to offer – as fresh as it comes, directly from the growers. Every second and fourth Friday.

To check the latest on anything mentioned in these pages, head to http://www.marunouchi.com/event(Japanese with some English available), or call 03 5218 5100 (Japanese only).

It’s a Marunouchi thing…

It’s not just where Tokyo’s business elite work and play. We’ll give you ten reasons to fall in love with Marunouchi

7Shopping is dreamlike Top-brand flagships and small boutiques rub shoulders on leafy boulevards, and in the open hallways of gleaming skyscrapers. And there are plenty of eclectic cafés in which to collapse and bask in a post-retail afterglow.

Sens & Saveurs

1It’s the cuisine capital… of the capital Marunouchi is a hotbed of innovative cuisine and fine dining with great views. It’s also home to the Marunouchi Chef’s Club – a network of elite cooks, in which Japan’s top chefs work to promote healthy eating by way of their experience and passion for food.

2You can get educated before work Morning University of Marunouchi has a range of courses for early risers to cram in study time before work. The one-hour sessions include topics as varied as radio presenting, Kabuki and Bushido. See www.asadaigaku.jp/en/ 4 Omotenashi through and through – and hotels aplenty Few areas in the world can boast as many top hotels within walking distance of each other as Marunouchi, and from 2016 HOSHINOYA Tokyo –a tatami-floored luxury Japanese-style inn with exquisite manners –is set to add to the mix. Those fortunate enough to stay in this area will discover the intuitive Japanese concept of hospitality, ‘omotenashi’: a term made famous during Tokyo’s successful 2020 Olympics bid.

8It has some well-known international friends… Unbeknown to many, Marunouchi’s trendy Naka-dori Avenue, Bond Street in London and Madison Avenue in New York share a street alliance agreement, which more than befits their globally renowned outlets, exquisite settings and all-round ambiance of style and panache.

3The buildings are iconic Encompassing the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo, New Generation Skyscrapers and Tokyo International Forum, the pretty frontage of Tokyo station and the historic Teikoku Theatre, the range of architectural gems in Marunouchi is unique in Tokyo. And you can see it all on one gentle stroll.

5It has a team of elite street cleaners First impressions count, and Marunouchi has long been a gateway for foreign ambassadors and VIPs –and the streets around its main strip, Naka-dori Avenue, are kept spotless by a SWAT-style team of cleaning attendants.

6It’s the business hub of the nation Marunouchi is to Tokyo as the City is to London. It’s home to Japan’s largest banks, financial firms and insurance companies, as well as being a point of entry for venture companies. Marunouchi is the place to be, the name to know and the neighbourhood in which to negotiate. In fact, all consolidated sales in the area correspond to approximately 23 per cent of Japan’s GDP. 9 It boasts impressive artistic heritage A wander around Marunouchi is like walking through an open-air gallery. Statues and objet d’artprovide a sculptural eyeful along Naka-dori Avenue, complemented by a handful of museums in the area, and art displays in the store windows.

10 For that unrushed ‘Happy hour’…

Unlike elsewhere in Tokyo, happy hour in the bars and restaurants of Marunouchi is about taking it slow. Make like a local after a hard day in the office, kick back by sitting back and watching the world glide by with a glass of beer and a snack or two. Here are some local happy-hour hotspots we can recommend…

BY THE NUMBERS Marunouchi’s vital statistics

LORDING IT UP Four hundred years ago, 24 of Japan’s ‘daimyo’ lords had homes in the area of the former Edo Castle, now the Imperial Palace. ‘Marunouchi’ means ‘Inside the Circle’, referring to its position inside the moat.

LUXE LODGINGS With just under 2,000 hotel rooms –1,814 in top city hotels and a further 161 in business hotels – Marunouchi is ideal for those looking to combine classy style with a buzzing location.

THE PERFECT ROMANTIC DATE Head to Maison Barsac for a reasonably priced Parisian-style restaurant with wine starting at just ¥700 per glass and nibbles at around ¥500. The simple menu is perfectly French, the wine list a mix of European old-world options. Maison Barsac, 1-2F, 2-5-2 Mitsubishi Building, Marunouchi. Tokyo station JR, Nijubashi-mae. www.impec-barsac.com. 03 5220 4871. 11am-11pm daily.

OFF THE BEATEN MICROBREW TRACK Known as ‘PCM’ the Pub Cardinal Marunouchi offers a range of affordable Japanese microbrew beers as well as a wine list that’s hard to match in the area. Pub grub starts from just ¥500 for a small plate. Pub Cardinal Marunouchi 1F, 2-7-3 Tokyo Building, Marunouchi. Tokyo station JR. www.tinyurl.com/TOTpcm. 03 5222 1251. 11am-4am; Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-11pm.

THE CLASSIEST HAPPY HOUR IN THE COUNTRY Dinner at The Peninsula Tokyo’s restaurant Peter averages at around ¥10,000. But for as little as ¥700, drinks at the adjacent bar during happy hour (5pm-8pm daily) can be quaffed with a captivating view out across the city. Peter: The Bar at The Peninsula Tokyo, 1-8-1 Yurakucho. Hibiya station. www.peninsula.com/peterthebar. 03 6270 2763.

HAPPY TRAVELS The two overground and three underground stations in Marunouchi see some 2.35m daily passengers. This figure dwarfs the 300,000 that pass through New York’s Grand Central station.

WORTH A FORTUNE Money talks… and Marunouchi is home to no less than 18 Fortune 500 companies – the same as the whole of New York, and two more than the whole of London. And there are only 48 in the whole of Tokyo.

My Marunouchi

Danish expat Christian Skovhoj, 39, gives us his first impressions of his new home

What’s your job? I work for a German shipowner, Oldendorff, and, in the Tokyo office, I’m in charge of buying and selling ships.

How long have you been working in Marunouchi? Only six months. I’m quite new to this part of the city. This is my second time working in Tokyo. I used to work at Kojimachi, then moved to New York for six years but came back to Tokyo two years ago, together with my Japanese wife. before going home. I often go to a great wine place called Enoteca with colleagues or clients.

Does anywhere remind you of home in Marunouchi? There is a great Danish hot dog place called 4R Danish Cafe in Tokyo International Forum. You can have a hot dog with Carlsberg beer.

What’s special about Marunouchi? I think Marunouchi is the coolest business area in the city. It’s convenient, and there is a great, energetic vibe. It’s the best place to work in Tokyo.