Time Out Pécs I./1.

Contents March 2010

Regulars Spring Festival

10

4

Highlights Festivals, events, films and gigs

6

Trafik Pécs unlocked My Pécs Musician András Lovasi waxes lyrical

30

Features

8

Pécs2010 The big one, under the spotlight Spring Festival Classical, Celtic, jazz and folk sounds

10

Food & Drink Jazz diva

26

Market delicacies Find the sausage of your dreams

Gala dance

28

Corso Upscale downtown gem Wine of the month Matias chardonnay sampled

14 16 20

Around Town Zsolnay Museum Renovated, illuminated, assessed

Market treats

14

Here we go... ...here we go. Time Out, the world’s leading listings magazine, has just arrived in the European Capital of Culture. The timing is no coincidence. This year Pécs has a once-in-a-lifetime role in the cultural life of Europe. Along with Essen and Istanbul, the spotlight is falling on this atmospheric city with its rich patchwork history. Being true to the brand, and following the success of Time Out Budapest, Time Out Pécs reports on everything you will need to know about in any given month, tourists and foreign residents alike. Appearing throughout town on the first working day of the month, Time Out Pécs will be distributed free of charge at hotels and restaurants around the region, at Pécs University, as well as all in all major cultural institutes.

We hope you enjoy what you read – please send your comments or queries to info@timeoutpecs.hu. Welcome to Pécs!

András Papp, Editor, Time Out Pécs

Francophone Festival A fortnight of Gallic culture

Film French film night Baguettes and celluloid

Music & Nightlife Veronika Harcsa Quartet Magyar jazz sung in English Kati Kovács & Qualitons Evergreen pop star with retro newbies

Performing Arts Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble Anniversary gala performance

22 23

25

26 27

28

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 3

Highlights March Sat 6 Félix Lajkó Ifjúsági ház (Nagy Lajos király útja 13). 8pm Genial violinist with Antal Brasnyó on viola.

Fri 12

tic s e s Bfor mu Félix Lajkó Saturday March 6 at the Ifjúsági Ház

Wed 17

Made in Pécs Pécsi Est Café (Rákóczi út 46). 8pm Live hip-hop groups from Pécs.

Sun 14 Free Stéphanie Blanchoud’s chanson night Trafik (Perczel M utca 22.). 9pm. See p23.

Ister concert Dominikus ház (Színház tér). 7pm Irish-Scottish folk music. See p10.

Francophone Film Night Uránia cinema (Hungária út 19). 8pm. See p25.

Thur 18 Szakcsi Generation Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. Top jazz. See p10.

Mon 15

Mezzoforte (Ice) Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 9pm. See p10.

Sat 20 Veronika Harcsa Quartet Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. Magyar jazz. See p26.

Matt Bianco (UK) Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 9pm. See p10.

Ceux Qui Marchent Debout concert Ifjúsági ház (Nagy Lajos kir ály útja 13). 9.30pm.

New Orleans sounds from France. See p23.

Sun 21 Marcin Dominik Gluch piano concert Müvészetek Háza(Széchenyi tér). 7pm.

Chopin celebration. See p10.

Wed 24

Pannon Philharmonic Spring Festival concert Nemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7pm.

See p10.

Tue 16 Viva Venezia!

Pécs Cathedral (Dóm tér). 7.30pm.

Concert by UniCum Laude singer ensemble & Sonatores Pannoniae Baroque. See p10.

Free Tram des Balkans concert Pécsi Est Café (Rákóczi út 46). 9pm.

4 Time Out Pécs March 2010

Rhoda Scott & Band (USA) Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 9pm. See p10.

Schumann night Hotel Palatinus (Király utca). 7pm. See p10.

Fri 19 Ágota Kristóf: Je lis – French play Ifjúsági ház (Nagy Lajos kir ú. 13). 7pm. See p23.

Jazz Steps Band & Leroy Jones (USA) Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. See p10.

Nikola Parov Quartet Dominikus Ház (Színház tér). 7pm.

Mixed Balkan sounds from Bulgaria.

Aurél Tillai Evening Hotel Palatinus (Király utca). 7pm.

Celebrating the Pécs-born composer.

French Gastronomy Night Korzó restaurant(Király utca 24). 8pm.

Thur 25 László Herczeg Exhibition Volksbank Gallery (Király utca 66). See p10.

Fri 26 & Mon 29 ‘Sörény lábbal, víg orcával’ Nemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7pm.

Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble gala. See p28.

Sat 27 Pétanque competition 48-as tér. 10am. See p23.

The King’s Singers: Pater noster Pécs Cathedral (Dóm tér). 8pm.

Well travelled UK tenors and baritones.

Sun 28 Gingalló – Ági Szalóki ZenePark (Felsõmalom utca 22). 4pm.

Debuting a new album of kid-friendly folk.

Mon 29 Bill T Jones & Arnie Zane Dance Group (USA) Nemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7.30pm. See p10.

Tue 30 Pawel Kowalski piano concert Dominikus ház (Színház tér). 7pm.

Wed 31 Richard Bona & Group (USA) Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. See p10.

April and beyond Mon Apr 5 Erdődy Chamber group Pécs Cathedral (Dóm tér). 8pm.

Wed Apr 7 Andrea Rost: Songs of Pannonia Rohmányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm.

Soprano performs with Szilvia Bognár, Mátyás Bolya, Péter Glaser, Miklós Lukács, Balázs Szokolay Dongó and Budapest Klezmer Band.

Thur Apr 8-Sun Apr 11 Festival of International Bartók and Kodály Choirs Dominikus Ház (Színház tér); Hotel Palatinus (Király utca). Various times.

Fri Apr 9 Ghymes: Álombálom Uránia Cinema (Hungária út 19). 7.30pm.

World-music act launch new album.

Fri Apr 9-Sun Apr 11 Fringe Festival Pécsi Est Café, Ifjúsági Ház, other venues. See p10.

Sat Apr 10-Mon May 10 Ravenna Mosaic Exhibition Dóm Museum (Szent István tér).

Highly acclaimed travelling exhibition displays copies of Italian mosaics.

Sun Apr 11 ‘Szép tavasz, szép nyár’ Csontváry Museum (Janus Pannonius utca 11). 4pm.

Performance by the Mecsek Choir and the Béla Bartók Women’s Choir.

Mon Apr 12 Philip Pickett & the Musicians of the Globe (UK): Shakespeare’s Musick Hotel Palatinus (Király utca). 7pm.

Elizabethan hits. See p10.

Wed Apr 21-Sat Apr 24

Best

for d ance

Bill T Jones & Arnie Zane Dance Group Monday March 29, Nemzeti Színház

Pécs University Days Bõrgyár (Siklósi út 22).

The most significant music festival of the region is organised by Pécs University and takes place in an abandoned factory near the city centre.

The four-day event’s main performers are Tito & Tarantula (USA), DJ Krush (Japan), Les Touffes Krétiennes (Fr), Client (UK), the Urban Voodoo Machine (UK) and the Toasters (USA).

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 5

Trafik Where Pécs is the star

Pécs Scene – ‘We have lift-off’ by József Hubay Celebrations on Széchenyi tér on the opening night of Pécs2010, European Capital of Culture

It’s a living – concert promoter Jehan Paumero What brought you to Pécs?

Chance. I was looking for a job teaching French abroad. Out of 32 countries, there just happened to be two positions, one in Portugal, one in Pécs. I chose Pécs. I had to find it on the map first.

Why Hungary?

I had been here before, for the Sziget music festival in Budapest. I already had experienced life here.

And how was your first experience?

They nicked my rucksack with everything in it at Déli Station – passport, laptop, the works. I had to stay for an extra week and just fell in love with the place. I came for six months and I’ve been here nearly 6 Time Out Pécs March 2010

six years. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.

How did you get involved in the music scene?

I started out organising concerts when I was a student in France. I was at Cognac, and set up gigs and an annual festival around the Atlantic coast. There are loads of people promoting gigs in France – here there weren’t. I managed to get ahead. I couldn’t do this in France.

And you never felt the urge to take to the stage yourself?

Of course! In fact, one of the main attractions of coming here was to learn the tango harmonica. I’m also in a band, the Psycho Mutants, and

we’ve played dates around France, Switzerland and Austria, as well as in Hungary.

Tell us more about Pécs. You don’t find it too small?

I’m not from a big city so I like the size of this place. I thought Budapest would be better but I like it here. There’s something in the atmosphere. It has a good energy.

And what do you think about Pécs2010?

It’s good and bad. For shopkeepers along the streets where there’s been lots of rebuilding, it hasn’t been so good. Plus Pécs has plenty of things going on anyway – they do good things here.

Hidden Pécs Unlocking the city Near focal Széchenyi tér, on Janus Pannonius utca, a strange attraction awaits visitors: rows of padlocks hanging on two wrought-iron fences. What gives?

The unusual custom of hanging padlocks in one particular corner of the city centre seems to have been here for decades – but nobody can say for sure why. According to one popular theory, students graduating from the nearby schools and colleges put their locker padlocks on the railings along Janus Pannonius utca as a passingout ritual; another has it that it was couples who clicked on the first padlocks as a sign of their eternal love, the urban equivalent of a heart carved into a tree trunk.

Only one thing is certain: the first padlock was put on by someone in the early 1980s, before being followed by literally thousands. These padlocks have different shapes and colours, some of them decorated with initials or other symbols, making them, in their own way, unique. Pécs is proud of this place of interest and tries to protect it – the wall of padlocks on Janus Pannonius utca is one of those lovely urban myths.

Meanwhile, this modest tradition became city-wide sport. More and more padlocks were fixed on railings, fences around fountains, sometimes even on the hands of statues. Now and then the city tries to remove these so-called illegal padlocks, carrying out removal operations in as delicate a way as possible, even going so far as to offer their return to each individual owner.

Local heroes Victor Vasarely

Victor Vasarely was born Győző Vásárhelyi in Pécs in 1906. Until his death in Paris in 1997, he was perhaps the most important artist the city has ever produced – certainly in his own particular field of op-art, there’s no-one in Europe to hold a candle to him.

After finishing secondary school, Vasarely attended evening classes at the Medical University, but by then, art had taken primary importance in his life. He spent time at several art schools – most notably the seminal workshop run by Sándor Bortnyik – before moving to France in 1930 where he lived and worked until his death. Starting as a creative consultant at various advertising agencies, he later found his place as an artist.

After 1968 he started to donate artworks to the city of Pécs. The Vasarely Museum was opened in 1976 in the house where he was in Káptalan street (‘Museum Street’) – due to reopen after renovation this spring. Look out also for his colourful sculpture on the corner of Hunyadi and Magaslati utca, a modest walk from the main square or take buses Nos. 32 -35.

New motorway to Pécs to open this month Two hours from Budapest – who would have thought?

After many years of delays and broken promises, and conveniently timed to coincide with European

Capital of Culture year, the M6 motorway between Budapest and Pécs is set to open on March 31. The new link should cut the driving time from the capital by 30 minutes.

Also linking Dunaújváros with Budapest, the M6 now incorporates

four tunnels, and crosses with the M8 and M9 routes. Plans later call for the M6 motorway to link up with the M11, thus allowing easy access to the north of Hungary – but drivers shouldn’t expect this to be operational until 2015 at least.

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 7

This year Pécs has the honour of becoming Hungary’s first European Capital of Culture.

Here’s what visitors can expect.

P

Stages, screens and

squares

8 Time Out Pécs March 2010

aris, Bruges, Florence – and now Pécs! For the first time since the designation was conceived by Melina Mercouri in the mid-1980s, a Hungarian destination – in this case a picturesque, historic one under three hours from Budapest – has been named a European Capital of Culture.

From the opening ceremony in Széchenyi tér in January to the closing celebrations around this atmospheric melting pot at year’s end, Pécs will host some 300 events in all fields of the arts. All year round, on a day-by-day basis, the visitor will be able to enjoy performances as diverse as Vietnamese water puppet theatre, folk music from Moldova, haiku poetry from Japan and Mexican contemporary dance.

The former famous Zsolnay factory is to be transformed into a Cultural Quarter And Pécs2010 is not just about oneoff shows. The city justifiably presents itself as the gateway to the Balkans – it’s a short drive to Croatia or Serbia, with a daily train service to Sarajevo. It’s also a mixed community, with six official minorities in town and enough Croats to warrant a Croat-language theatre and school.

The city is preparing with major

Highlights for 2010 Major events Circus & Street Theatre Festival July 9-25 Organised in partnership with the Street Theatre Centre in Marseille, due to be European Capital of Culture in 2013, this fortnight-long event takes place outdoors, with shows adapted for their setting.

Adult Puppet Festival August 23-28 Four prestigious venues (the Tettye Outdoor Stage, Pécs National Theatre, Bóbita Puppet Theatre and the Korona Teátrum) are among the settings for this competition and performance event, with guests from Vietnam, Japan, France, America and Switzerland.

Visual Arts Hungarians in Bauhaus

Pécs scenes Janus Pannonius utca (far left); Gypsy dancing on Széchenyi tér (top left); Nemzeti Színház (top); Zsolnay Fountain (left); blowing bubbles on Széchenyi tér (above)

urban developments: the Pécs Conference & Concert Centre is one, while the South Transdanubian Library and Knowledge Centre are the two green-field investments being built close to the historic hub.

With ceramics production also in place, the former famous Zsolnay Factory will be turned into a Cultural Quarter. Synonymous with Pécs for more than a century, Zsolnay sits on 40,000 square metres of land being transformed into a complex of community spaces and cultural centres.

Káptalan utca, a street of landmark museums, is also receiving a complete makeover, so that attractions such as the Zsolnay, Vasarely and Csontváry museums – to name but the most famous three – will be part of one unified structure and exhibition space.

For the immediate time being, visitors should be aware that much in the city is still under construction, with roadworks in key streets around the city centre and the main square, Széchenyi tér, will have a fence around it until early May. Many of the museums, too, have their doors closed until the spring. All should be good and ready for the summer influx of visitors.

Still, the main attraction for visitors today is the range of cultural events on offer. Although these reflect the whole spectrum of the arts, Pécs2010 is particularly strong on the visual arts, classical music, folk culture, contemporary dance and theatre.

Throughout the year, the city will also play host to a series of international conferences, covering subjects as wide-ranging as metallurgy, the future of Europe and pop music.

For information on all events, see www.pecs2010.hu.

t Bfeorsart

August 15-October 15 HiB draws on the rich tradition of Hungarian artists involved in the Bauhaus movement. From Pécs itself come names such as Ernő Forbát, Marcell Breuer and Andor Weininger, members of two key groups (the Pécs Artists’ Circle and the Pécs Bauhäuslers), who worked with internationally renowned Magyars such as Sándor Bortnyik, Gyula Pap and Lászlo Moholy-Nagy.

Guided city tours, family days and children’s programmes complement the main exhibition, comprising paintings, set designs, film and photographs.

Music Fishing on Orfű

t Ber msusic fo

June 17-19, Panoráma Campsite, Orfű For the third year running, thousands of music fans will descend on Lake Orfű near Pécs, where nearly 100 bands will be performing on several stages at the Panoráma Campsite. Most come from around the region. Stand-up comedy, film shows and a cookery contest provide diversity.

Pécs Cantat August 15-22 Pécs Cantat harks back to a proud history as host of choir festivals. Pécs was the first city behind the Iron Curtain to stage the prestigious Europa Cantat festival of singers and conductors. Here, some 1,000 participants take part in half a dozen workshops over the course of a week, with a gala concert at the end.

Theatre & Dance Dance Marathon April 26-May 1 The squares, streets and schools of Pécs will be the setting for this participatory event, involving dance troupes from Finland, Portugal, Slovakia and elsewhere, plus several groups from Pécs itself.

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 9

Stepping out in spring

with ‘Viva Venezia’, the music of 16thand 17th-century Venice presented by the UniCum Laude vocal ensemble and the Sonatores Pannoniae Baroque Brass Band. The concert takes place at the Pécs Basilica.

In a eclectic selection of sounds for icking off on the national holithe first week, this will then be folday of March 15, the Pécs Spring Festival represents a lowed by the traditional Celtic music of Ister, an evening dedicated to month of top-class culture at a handRobert Schumann (born ful of venues across town.

200 years ago this June), This year, naturally, it falls under and a performance by the auspices of Pécs2010, European Polish pianist Marcin Capital of Culture – but few events Dominik Gluch, over this year will attract as many heavyweight acts. Also incorporating notably of pieces by Chopin – born 200 the fourth annual International Jazz years ago this month.

Weekend and the three-day long The highlight of Pécs Fringe Festival in April, the PSF the month is the features world stars in many fields.

Getting things underway will be the International Jazz Pannon Philharmonic Orchestra, Weekend (March 18-20) in the main hall of the Medical who can trace their history back to 1811. Here, under the baton of András Faculty. Two acts take the stage each night. Hungary’s own Szakcsi Vass, with pianist Gábor Farkas, they will perform pieces by Erkel, Liszt and Generation (featuring the legendary Béla Lakatos Szakcsi and his two Dvorak at the Pécs National Theatre.

The next evening, on March 16, a high sons) provide the curtain-raiser quality of performance is guaranteed before New Jersey’s Rhoda Scott

The Pécs Spring Festival takes place over a month at a host of venues in town. Time Out Pécs picks out the highlights.

K

10 Time Out Pécs March 2010

moves the musical programme from Gypsy jazz to blues/gospel. Iceland’s Mezzoforte headline on the Friday night – strange to think that these once fresh-faced youngsters from the mid -1980s are still going strong after three decades of instrumental funkfusion. After a performance by the Veronika Harcsa Quartet (see p14), Latin-flavoured UK duo Matt Bianco climax the weekend with a few jazzy tunes and pop hits. Mark Reilly and Mark Fisher have pared down their sound, recently releasing their first album for five years, ‘Hifi Bossanova’.

Another jazz name, bass player Richard Bona, makes an appearance later on in the Spring Festival, at the same Medical Faculty, on March 31.

Cameroon-born Bona has played with some of the biggest names in the business and is making his second visit to Pécs in as many years.

The PSF agenda is not confined to music. On March 25 an exhibition opens of works by Pécs-born artist László Herczeg, bright, abstract pieces that will hang in the Volksbank Gallery in the Király ház on Király utca until June. There’s dance too, the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble (see p28) and, from the US, Bill T Jones & the Arnie Zane Dance Ensemble, who present eclectic pieces (mainly duets) from 20 years of unconventional choreography.

Strange to think that fresh-faced Mezzoforte are still going strong after three decades Bookending the month will be the three-day Fringe Festival, April 9-11, acts from the Budapest event of the same name. Gala concerts after include ‘World Stars in Pécs Series’, again featuring the Pannon Philharmonic Orchestra. Taking place in Pécs Cathedral, this show on

Super sounds Richard Bona (top left); Rhoda Scott (circled); Matt Bianco (above)

April 10 will be given in memorium of their founder György Licki. Don’t miss soprano Andrea Rost performing Gypsy, Jewish and Hungarian folk songs, three days earlier on April 7.

Musicians from Shakespeare’s

Globe Theatre, featuring the London-born exponent of English period music, Philip Pickett, bring the month to a close on April 12.

Pécs Spring Festival Mar 15-Apr 12. www.pecsitavaszifesztival.hu.

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 11

12 Time Out Pécs March 2010

Food & Drink Eat & Drink around town

Bangers and lángos Local market dining

Photography by József Hubay

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 13

Market research

Food & Drink

To find real local delicacies you don’t need to go to a restaurant.

Walk around the city’s markets and you’ll find German sausage, pork tongue with garlic and hot peppers – as Balázs Pesti reveals.

R

ight in the heart of town, the Central Market Hall is as essential to Pécs as its mosques.

Opening at 5am, its modest bars come into good use as the last stop in a long night of partying – but by day, locals roam the rows of stalls in the middle of the enclosed space, looking for that particular type of sausage or a bag of mushrooms picked fresh nearby. Any culinary tour of Pécs starts here, revealing much about the city’s patchwork history.

Many regulars head first to the sausage stands in the back corner. This is also a handy vantage point to observe the Central Market Hall in action. While you’re watching, have a look over what’s on offer, perhaps treating yourself to a breakfast of liver sausage (májashurka) or sausage (kolbász), two slices of bread with a dod of mustard and the pickled vegetables of your choice. Oh, and don’t forget to throw in a couple of hot peppers (cseresznyepaprika). This typical combo should set you back Ft1,500.

The tall chap describes his spicy sausages as being so hot they would make children cry Your hunger sated, you can browse the 100 odd stalls laid out in several rows, piled high with bright paprikas, mounds of sauerkraut and that day’s spinach. If you’re after a souvenir, paprika powder or dried hot paprika might be the answer – but these you can find in most towns in southern Hungary. As you’re in Pécs, you should try the local speciality, the famous stifolder. This sausage is the heritage of the German minority living in the region; you won’t be able to find it anywhere else in the country. It is wider and much softer than the traditional Hungarian sausage.

The name derives from the old German word Stiftsfuldaer, people from the land around the Fulda Abbey. One further tip: try looking for the tall chap in the far corner of the market hall, just in front of the sausage stands as his is the best on offer.

14 Time Out Pécs March 2010

Bright delights Market delicacies include paprikas (above) and fruit picked locally (below)

Food & Drink

Meaty treats Carnivores can enjoy salami (above) and spicy sausages (right), served with hot pepper (above right) He describes his spicy sausages as being so hot ‘they would make children cry’.

Adults too, in fact, as any first-time visitor might find.

Naturally, the choice of fruit and vegetables is seasonal – though globalisation has reached here too. Don’t be surprised to find fresh tomatoes in the off-season, arriving from abroad via the wholesale market on the outskirts of town. Local shoppers prefer to seek out quality vegetables characterised by their imperfect, irregular shapes and, most importantly, by having dirt on them. That means they’ve been grown around here, as opposed to the imported carrots hothoused in artificial soil.

Quality dairy products are located in one of the stalls in the northern part of the hall. Here you’ll find raw cow’s milk, goat’s milk as well as the usual processed dairy products: butter, cottage cheese, cream and cheese from the Ormánság region. Try the home-made creamy speciality, házi krémes, a cake the size and shape of a brick.

If you have kitchen facilities where you are, you can buy fresh fish from the fishmonger in the northwestern corner of the hall – look out for local catfish (harcsa) and pike (csuka), main ingredient for the

celebrated pike stew loved by locals.

Don’t forget to have a look at the bio products from the certified producers, such as rosehip or apricot jams. Organic produce is all the rage in Hungary right now – justifiably, if the delicacies offered by the cheesemaker from Mozsgó are anything to go by.

To continue your culinary tour, take bus No 4 in front of the hall entrance and head to the market at Hajnóczy utca. The journey itself is an experience as you elbow for a place on the bus with locals laden down with overflowing shopping bags. Again, this market opens nice and early but beware: although its official weekday hours run until 1pm, get there before noon if you’re after the signature local food, pork tongue with garlic (fokhagymás nyelv), a prime delicacy only available at this open-air venue west of the city centre, conveniently located near the football stadium.

Whatever time you go you’ll always see groups of people from the neighbourhood hanging around and enjoying a fröccs (spritzer) and chatting the day away.

Markets have a communal use – shoppers don’t just browse, buy and vanish.

Neither of these two main markets open on Sundays. After a demanding

Saturday night they head directly to Vásártér, the huge open-air market that only runs on Sundays. Although produce is available here, many visit for recreation – this is the best flea market in the region.

No matter what you are looking for, you’ll find it here: Brezhnev-era Hungarian vinyl, retro kitsch and boxes of puppies.

Bear in mind that prices drop in direct proportion to the distance from the main entrance. Always haggle. Vásártér is the home of the lángos, deep-fried flat bread the size and consistency of your duvet.

Hunger was made for it. Do as the Romans do, have the guy chuck on cheese and sour cream (sajtos-tejfölös), and devour.

Markets Central Market Hall Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 25, Mon-Fri 5am-5pm, Sat 5am-noon.

Hajnóczy utca market Mon-Fri 6am-1pm, Sat 6am-noon.

Vásártér Móra Ferenc utca, Sun 5am-2pm.

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 15

Restaurant review Corso KKKKK

Food & Drink

Top spot in city centre The bistro part of Corso’s twofloor operation has garnered many accolades after only two years in the business. Rated as one of the top restaurants in Hungary, it is built on expectation and it delivers.

The cuisine, though labelled Hungarian, draws heavily from French and Italian influences with the latest addition to the team, chef Gábor Kovács, taking over from Gábor Molnár, lured away to a Michelin-star restaurant in Germany. All eyes are on Kovács as he has some rather large shoes to fill.

With a menu that is short and to the point, the focus remains on quality, not quantity. Starters like the duck minestrone with Asian herbs

(Ft890) is a delectably refreshing soup crowned with crunchy herbs and tender duck. For even the most acute steak craving, the beef fillet with Bordeaux wine sauce and confit of vegetables (Ft3,500) is just the ticket. Alternatively the rosé duck breast with cranberry red-wine sauce and buttery pan roasted vegetables (Ft2,500) is a fine choice occasionally featured on the daily specials menu.

Desserts range from a pear tarte Bourdaloue with vanilla ice (Ft790) to a number of sweet treats on view in the vitrine by the front bar. Or opt for the French cheese plate from Hungary’s own cheese expert and importer T Nagy Tamás.

16 Time Out Pécs March 2010

Consistently, the price-toquality ratio is well above what you would find locally; a real standout on Pécs’s culinary scene. The waitstaff are enthusiastic and professional, with a good knowledge of the wines on offer. Reds of Magyar provenance such as Bock, Gere and Takler are priced from Ft4,500 a bottle.

With a keen eye on design, Corso’s interior is simple and

tasteful. Cream leather seating is accentuated by dark laminate tabletops and oversized dome-lighting fixtures while a window onto kitchen is the focal point of the dining room.

Opposite, picture windows face the National Theatre and adjoining square, and let in lots of natural light during busy lunchtimes.

Király utca 14 (525 198).

Daily 8am-midnight.

Food Hall Aranykulacs

Iparos Kisvendéglő

Nefelejcs köz 3, Szekszárd (06 74 413 369/www.aranykulacs.hu).

Daily noon-midnight.

Classic, traditional restaurant offering specialist wines from the region – Takler, Sebestyén, Sárosdi – and some two dozen pálinka brandies.

Rákóczi út 24-26 (333 400 / www.iparoskisvendeglo.hu).

Mon-Sat 11.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-4pm.

Friendly restaurant offering lunch menus, Hungarian flavours and huge portions. Consommé on the house when taking a main dish; free WiFi acces.

OUTSIDE PÉCS

Le Bistro

Felsőhavi dűlő 6/1 (513 213/ www.bagolyvarpecs.hu). Daily 11am-9.30pm.

Hotel and garden restaurant with a view over Zengő hill serving global and Hungarian dishes, with specialities from Székely in Transylvania such as the platter with steak, veal and pork. Game is also prevalent, such as the pheasant consommé or Villányi-style wild ragout.

Surányi M utca 21 (312 558).

Mon-Thur 10am-midnight; Fri 10am-2am; Sat noon-2am; Sun noon-midnight.

French-owned and influenced child-friendly café with a summer terrace under a striped awning.

Inside are a table-football table and TV for big games.

Café Zacc

Lemon Café

Mátyás király utca 2 (222 005).

Mon-Thur 9am-midnight; Fri 9am1am; Sat 10am-1am; Sun 5pmmidnight.

Friendly little four-room spot just off Jókai tér with Zlaty Bazant on draught, bar snacks, Wi-Fi and the day’s papers. Regularly changing exhibitions – art, black-and-white photography, paintings – add a touch of class.

Citrom utca 7 (532 848). Daily 8am-midnight.

Trendy downtown spot offering breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, panini, coffees (all varieties also decaffeinated), fruit smoothies, Bitburger beers and at least 30 types of cocktail.

Diós Kisvendéglő

Maestro

Diósi út 46 (211 518). Mon-Sat 11am-10pm.

In business for more than a decade, this sunny terrace spot out towards the Zsolnay Quarter specialises in pizzas, pancakes (including chicory, blackberry and vanilla) and grilled meats.

Weekdays, the good-value lunch menu comes into its own.

Klimó György út 12 (515 555/ www.maestropizza.hu). Daily 10am-10pm.

Pizzeria and terrace under the Barbakan with 60 varieties of pizza in four sizes, classic Hungarian dishes, salads, cakes and desserts.

Fiáker

Matias Borozó

Felsőmalom utca 7 (327 859).

Mon-Sat 10am-10pm.

Eminently affordable local restaurant serving Hungarian kitchen standards, including carp, breaded chicken and beef stew.

Look out for the daily menu.

Baross G utca 81, Villány (592 086). Mon-Thur noon-8pm; Fri noon-10pm; Sat 11am-10pm; Sun 9am-4pm.

Recently renovated wine cellar in the green surroundings of Villány, offering labels from the winery of the same name.

OUTSIDE PÉCS Advertising feature

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 17

Food & Drink

Bagolyvár

Bar review Pécsi Est Café

Listings Listings are chosen at the discretion of the editors.

TimeOut does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

KKKKK Club, bar and resto in one

Food & Drink

Restaurants

Pub, restaurant, live venue and sports bar, the landmark Pécsi Est Café on the ground floor of the Kereskedők Háza downtown shopping centre, is all things to all locals.

This, then, is one large-scale operation done out in a mixture of styles. On the walls, framed black-and-white photographs of evergreen icons (Jagger, Bukowski, London Underground, CBGBs) and guitars behind glass give the impression of a Hard Rock Café; filling most of the main space by day, tables are set with red-and-white checked cloths, upon which traditional, honest Hungarian meals, mountains of pasta and ‘rock ’n’ roll dishes’ (chili, fish & chips and ‘abundant rock ’n’ roll bowls 1 & 2’) are devoured from authentically retro domestic pans of fire-red lore; and, hidden away in the back is a miniature football stadium.

With three levels of terracing

in the red, white and green of the Hungarian flag, here fans group for big-screen matches beneath framed football shirts, away from the music and with easy access to a side bar and, most importantly, the toilets.

Balázs Gróf’s bright cartoon ceiling mural lightens up the corridor leading to the side bar, while the spotlight falls on the stage at the back of the main room, where domestic acts of decent renown (recent examples: Zuboly, Qualitons) get the whole space dancing twice a week at least. Record decks hide by one of two big round pillars, upon which the concert and DJ agenda is scrawled in colourful chalk.

Those unmoved by Magyar pop or rock can escape to the side bar or the empty football terrace and still enjoy a drink at conversational level.

Beers (including draught domestic Soproni, Heineken, Edelweiß), wines (including

18 Time Out Pécs March 2010

Villányi chardonnay, Dúzsi Pincészet Szekszárdi Rosé, Ebner-Pécsi Cirfandli) and, most notably, pálinka brandies (50 in number, categorised by fruit flavour and quality) are otherwise swiftly served over the long and well staffed bar counter even at post-gig bar crush time. Prices are kept pleasingly reasonable (domestic beer Ft210-Ft350, grilled tenderloin Ft920, lunch deals during the week), thus ensuring a constant flow of locals of mixed age from lunchtimes on. By the evening, this can be a very busy place indeed.

All in all, this well-conceived operation serves as a benchmark in Pécs, a professional outlet of quality for concertgoer and football fan alike.

Pécsi Est Café, Ground floor, Kereskedők Háza shopping centre, Rákóczi út 46 (06 20 667 8800 mobile/www.pecsiestcafe. hu). Mon-Sat 11.30am-late.

No credit cards.

Áfium Irgalmasok útja 2 (511 434). Mon-Sat 11am-1am; Sun 11am-midnight. Age-old cellar restaurant filled with Commie and pre-war Magyar toot where older regulars choose from an encyclopaedic menu of Magyar stews, hearty soups and, incongruously, pizzas. Good too for Yugo grilled meat favourites cevapcici and pljeskavica.

Aranykacsa Teréz utca 4 (518 860/www.aranykacsa. hu). Tue-Thur 11.30am-10pm; Fri, Sat 11.30am-midnight; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. A pub-style restaurant serving a huge range of Hungarian standards and healthier variations, goulash, roasted duck with steamed cabbage and so on.

Prices very fair considering its central location. Mind the ten percent service charge on your bill.

Corso See p16.

Dóm Étterem & Pizzeria Király utca 3 (210 088). Daily 11am-11pm. Hungarian and Italian favourites like pork-knuckle stew and pizzas from Ft1,000 are served in a pizzeria-style restaurant with a bar at the back.

All’Elefante Jókai tér 6 (216 055/www.elefantos.hu). MonThur, Sun 11.30am-11pm; Fri, Sat

Best beer varieties

Fregatt Arizona Half-a-dozen on draught.

Káptalan Borozó Vast range of bottled types.

Murphy’s Stouts and lagers (pic above).

Top local standard

in the summer of 2009, this three level-storey-plus-courtyard house contains three bohemian-style bar areas, an arty one under the roof and a beer garden. Easily the most hopping pre-midnight spot on the main drag. The Ft500 seedybreaded sandwiches also rock.

Kanta Bár Irgalmasok útja 6 (06 30 592 5010 mobile). Mon-Fri 10am-2am; Sat 4pm-2am; Sun 4pm-midnight. A fave among older local bohemians, in an inner courtyard and signposted from the Áfium street, the smoky Kanta comprises Classic cellar, classic food. an intimate, arty bar area and adjacent cellar music spot.

Aranykacsa Káptalan borozó Janus Goulash a go-go, fair prices.

Pannonius utca 8-10 (315 550). Mon-Sat 10am-2am; Sun Krúdy Vendéglő 10am-midnight. Behind the Duck, soups, live music (pic).

Cathedral, known to all as ‘Papucs’ (‘slipper’ – note drawing above drawn in by the carrot cake. Look door), this legendary smoky wine out also for the fruit teas, yoghurt bar unusually offers many bottled smoothies and Bitburger beer. beers and stays open agreeably Other snacks include doublelate. House wine simply priced at chocolate cookies and MarlenkaFt100 per deciliter for white, Ft120 branded pastries. Ice-creams too. for red.

Zöld Hungária utca 42 (no Murphy’s Király utca 2 (325 phone). Mon, Sun 439/http://murphys.

6pm-2am; Tue-Sat rubynet.net).

6pm-3am. The Mon-Thur, Sun green man sign 9am-midnight; outside means Fri, Sat serious post9am-2am. midnight Focal faux imbibery, a pub where regrettably food (Irish easy stagger steaks, from the pastas, house Kino landmark fruit soup) and nightspot. Once booze (draught Kikelet inside, you’ll find Paulaner and three cosy rooms Guinness; age-old filled with late-night chatter whiskies; Bols-sponsored and cigarette smoke, as well cocktails) take equal importance. as carefully chosen tunes from Pécsi Est Café See p18. behind the bar. Sadly closing times Semiramis Király utca 33 (no strictly adhered to – but ask a shitphone/www.semiramispecs.hu). faced regular to direct/accompany Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 9am-9pm; you to the Sör Bár (aka ‘Betonos’) Sun 2-8pm. The creamiest coffees round the corner. Everyone will in town are served at this cosy follow them there. terrace spot, though locals are also

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 19

Food & Drink

11.30am-midnight. This Italian Pezsgőház Szent István tér 12 restaurant specialises in authentic (522 598/www.pezsgohaz.hu). thin-crust pizzas and sundry Med Mon-Thur noon-3pm, 6-10pm; treats like risotto with cuttlefish Fri, Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm. The and prawns. The atmosphere is classy central Champagne House rather old-school Magyar than occupies the vaulted cellar of the Italian, with a history dating back to former Littke champagne factory. the 1800s. They also deliver.

Quality Mediterranean and Fregatt Arizona Király utca 21 Magyar cuisine, regional wines (511 068/www.fregatt.hu). Daily and, naturally, champagne, are 11am-midnight. Pub-steakhouse served with aplomb and at prices restaurant on the main drag with a to match. saloon-bar theme. Thick T-bones Tex-Mex Teréz utca 10 (215 go for Ft4,900, accompanied by 427/www.tex-mex.hu). Tue-Sat a choice of six draught 5-11pm. This local beers (Warsteiner, fave serves fajitas Guinness, quesadillas, tacos, Krusovice) or enchiladas and many regional burritos at wines. Twofer big-city prices happy hour in a no-frills Tue-Thur brightly 5-6pm. painted Krúdy cellar. Tasty Vendéglő cocktails play a Ferenciek utca leading role too.

32 (525 576, 06 Pezsgőház Cafes & bars 30 262 8997 mobile/ www.krudyvendeglo.

Blöff Színház tér 2 (06 30 997 hu). Wed-Sun 11am-11pm. Typical 9008 mobile). Mon-Sat 9am-1am; little local restaurant closed for Sun 4pm-1am. Popular café by renovation this winter but due to the National Theatre done out in reopen in March. When it does, drawing-room style, the bright on offer will be duck leg in plum collection of foreign football sauce (Ft1,360), pastas and, for scarves in one corner courtesy the afters, pancakes. Live music on game-crazy boss. Twenty cocktails, Saturdays. regional wines, and draught Kikelet Károlyi Mihály út 1 Dreher in both colours are on offer, (512 900/www.hotelkikelet.hu). plus several coffee types.

Daily 8am-10pm. Attached to the Coffein Széchenyi tér 9 (06 20 adjacent spa hotel, Kikelet has a solid local reputation but the hilltop 522 1440 mobile). Mon-Thur, Sun 9am-11pm; Fri, Sat 9am-2am. Neat vista may win out over the food. A café-eaterie on the main square good choice of wines complement whose varied selection includes Hungarian and continental dishes.

Illy coffee in the hot cocktails, Korhely Pub Boltív köz 2 (534 spinach among the breakfast 916/www.korhelypub.hu). Daily omelette varieties and apple amid 11.30am-midnight. Old-style the lemonade flavours. American eaterie down a cobbled sidestreet hamburgers, lemon cheesecakes with a long selection of bar food and king-crab salads too. and Hungarian faves. Sawdust and Cool Tour Café Király utca nut shells on the floor add rusticity; note also the funny-looking critters 26 (no phone/www.cooltourcafe. hu). Daily 10am-2am. Opened running around a glass tank.

Wine of the month

Food & Drink

Chardonnay to sink your teeth into Although the Matias Winery from Pécs has only recently entered the market, wine fanciers can already sample some two dozen of their wines.

Beside typical grape varieties of the five Hungarian wine regions, their assortment also incorporates internationally known varieties – such as barrel-aged chardonnay from Pécs. This wine, from a small, relatively unknown wine region in domestic terms, is made from one of the world’s major white-grape varieties, with a taste spectrum typical of barrique. All told, it’s an exciting pairing and a thrilling wine.

The aroma of honeyroasted seeds has the definite character of butter The Pécs wine region is one of the smallest in Hungary, with about 700 hectares under cultivation. Until the last couple of years only a few winemakers succeeded in produc-

ing quality wine in the kind of quantities that could attract attention outside the region.

Up until then, wines made by smaller producers only reached discerning customers of specialised stores, but now this new winery is thinking in terms of a much larger scale. It was founded by Dezső Matyi, responsible for more than 100 hectares of vineyards in the Villány, Pécs, Szekszárd, Badacsony and Tokaj wine regions. Another winery is planned for Ócsárd, a village on the Pécs wine route, where this Pécsi Chardonnay Barrique 2008 was aged by the barrel.

Its colour range is a sort of golden to light gold; it does not appear to be too thick, however, the creamy, glyceric motion in the glass indicates that it won’t be light. The aroma of honey-roasted seeds has the definite character of butter.

You can smell the barrel, but before that comes rich fruitiness: ripe, soft peaches with a note of Williams pears, accompanied by the aroma of crispy

dried apple.

You could bite into it but it bites back. This wine has body and structure. This was never meant to be a light, summer evening wine. The longer ageing is facilitated by the acidity of the wine, which is not low but still gives it character. In this way, the fruitiness is expressive, reminding you mainly of peach and apple, with a note of clover.

The roasted aromas are not dominating but definitely present, characterised by toasted seeds and vanilla creaminess.

This is a full-bodied, correct chardonnay, true to the characteristics of the grape variety. It has density, buoyancy and playfulness. It is a pleasure to taste and a pleasure to drink.

Zoltán Győrffy Matias Pécsi Chardonnay Barrique 2008. Ft2,900. Hordó wine store, Széchenyi tér 17; also from Alexandra (www. alexandra.hu).

BOOK AD 20 Time Out Pécs March 2010

Time Off

The cultural month ahead

Smooth sounds Top jazz in Pécs

Photography by Lajos Kalmár

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 21

Around Town Trademark of quality

Around Town

Palace on Jókai Mór utca. After the war, the state took over Zsolnay, renaming it the Pécs Porcelain Factory. It did not assume its original name and function until the resurgence of the market economy in the 1980s; by then its creative heyday and gifted pool of designers had been consigned to the past.

When his son Vilmos took over in the 1870s, Zsolnay soon gained world fame

The recently renovated Zsolnay Museum is the key sight on gallery-lined Káptalan utca.

Aniko Fenyvesi visits this impressive local landmark.

At present the only museum open on ‘Museum Street’, Káptalan utca, as the city prepares for Pécs 2010, the Zsolnay Museum is an impressive consolation as the key renovation achieved so far for this historic year. Occupying an apartment block dating back to medieval times, it received a noteworthy sum of money to repair and expand a gallery that houses many fine pieces created at the local, world-renowned Zsolnay Ceramics factory from the 1870s until World War II. Night-time illuminations add further attraction.

The museum is now considerably larger, filled with a more comprehensive selection of works produced through the decades as well as an interactive video display in English and Hungarian showing the history of the factory.

The collection presents the most

22 Time Out Pécs March 2010

important ceramic and stoneware pieces produced at the factory, founded by Miklós Zsolnay in 1853. When his son Vilmos took over the business and creative management in the 1870s, Zsolnay soon gained world fame, winning awards at the international trade fairs of the late 1800s. This is the period the museum uses as a point of departure.

Innovative developments such as the creation of a metallic ‘eosin’ glaze gave Zsolnay’s pieces their signature iridescence, popular during the Secessionist period.

Zsolnay was behind the weather-resistant pyrogranite tiles and decorative fixtures that adorn many buildings in Budapest, and here at the Zsolnay fountain on Széchenyi tér and the Post Office

The main level contains some of the best examples of Zsolnay porcelain from architectural ceramics to ornamental building fixtures, and pyrogranite roof tiles to sculptural elements and decorative ceramic tiles. The three galleries on the upper level are dedicated to glassware, earthenware and a dinner place setting arranged thematically and grouped by artist. One room is dedicated to Zsolnay furnishings arranged in a family home of the day. The hall alongside the gallery displays a photographic history of the Zsolnay family and the growth of their empire.

This comprehensive and informative collection provides a beautiful visual history of the city’s creative contribution.

You may photograph it (photo passes Ft300) or buy an original Zsolnay piece from the museum shop.

Elsewhere in town, the temporary exhibition ‘Zsolnay Máské(p) p’, showing Zsolnay’s works in the different light, is being staged at the Pécsi Galéria on Széchenyi tér until March 21.

Meanwhile the main ÁRKÁD shopping centre will house a display of Zsolnay history until March 7, part of a regular project around the city to present the Zsolnay brand and legend to the general public.

Káptalan utca 2 (514 040/kepzo. jpm.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft700, concs Ft350.

Previews Francophone Week

Around Town

Chanson queen Stéphanie Blanchoud treads the boards for Francophone Week Getting two for the price of one, the city’s 18th annual Francophone Week is now a Francophone fortnight. Starting on March 14, and running until March 27, conveniently incorporating Francophone World Day on March 20, Francophone Week is being organised by the longestablished and culturally active Alliance Française in Pécs.

Proceedings start off with a free concert given by Stéphanie Blanchoud, the chanson-friendly classically trained Belgian singer who will be accompanied by violin, cello, keyboard and percussion.

Things move up apace two days later when the Tram des Balkans play the

Pesti Est Café (see p18), providing a vibrant performance of Gypsy and klezmer sounds. The festival then moves on to take in a discussion on the works of crime writer Georges Simenon followed by a film, Pécs-born Béla Tarr’s adapation of Simenon’s ‘L’Homme de Londres’.

This will lead to the main events of the fortnight, three nights of chansons performed by students from the AuvrayNauroy School in Paris and their counterparts from the Theatre & Film School in Budapest. Audiences can expect pieces by Aznavour, Brel and Gainsbourg and admission is free. Confirmed venues include the Kafka Café (Alkotmány utca

8, 512 500) and the Billentyű bar in the Ifjúsági Ház (Nagy Lajos király útja 13, 211 511). Then comes an all-night showing of French film (see p25), and a show

by New Orleans-influenced Ceux Qui Marchent Debout, inveterate travellers well versed in stagecraft and danceable tunes. You can meet the band at Le Bistro (Surányi M utca 21) the next day.

Finally, Francophone Week is rounded out by an eclectic choice of smaller events, including a pétanque French bowls tournament, gastronomy and street theatre.

Mar ch 14-27. More details at en.pecs2010.hu.

Pécs has always been a mixed bag of communities. One of the handful of the city’s official minorities are Greeks, a fact being celebrated with a week-long festival taking place between March 27 and April 3 at various locations around town, as well as the village of Pellérd, ten minutes’ drive away. The event itself is a completely mixed bag: fine arts, music, theatre and dance feature heavily, provided by

Hellenes born or living in Hungary. These will include singer and bouzouki player Sarantis Mantzourakis, Zoltán Kollonay and band, the Pyrgos band and dance group, and violinist Nikos Ormandlidis.

Greek cuisine can also be sampled at these functions hosted by the POTE aula, the Ifjúsági Ház and the Zenepark.

Mar 27-Apr 3. More details at en.pecs2010.hu.

Greek Festival

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 23

Listings Pécs has many museums and attractions. Certain key ones remain closed to prepare for Pécs2010. Most should re-open by the spring.

Remembering Károly Csonka

Around Town

Museums & galleries Csontváry Museum Janus Pannonius utca 11 (310 544).

Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission Ft700, concs Ft350. Chemist Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka (18531919) took to painting at 41 and became of the greatest modern Hungarian painters, known for his absurd colour pairings and immense landscapes. Many of his 100 paintings and 20 drawings are on display here, arranged thematically in five galleries, including nature paintings, pencil drawings, oversized landscapes and sketches of surrealistic visions attributable to his mental state at the tims.

Dóm Museum Káptalan utca 8 (513 057). Daily 10am-4pm.

Admission Ft300, concs Ft150.

This museum contains an archeologically significant collection of old stones, the remains of the original basilica structure – today’s Basilica contains only copies. Also on display are gravestones from nearby Roman-era cemeteries, inscriptions still visible on the back. Little English documentation.

FREE Nádor Galéria Széchenyi tér 15 (225 404/www. nadorgaleria.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free.

The Nádor houses temporary exhibitions of local contemporary

A memorial show dedicated to renowned photographer Károly Csonka runs until March 31 at the Cella Septichora (see below). Pécs-born Csonka (1944-2006) took a lifetime’s worth of photographs of his home town. His photo albums ‘Pécsi Székesegyház’ and ‘Pécs egykor és ma’ drew on subjects of his beloved city then and now. Csonka was a well-known figure, who cherished and respected the town’s industrial past. visual artists, within the gutted space of the Nádor Hotel undergoing renovation. Every aspect (gallery spaces, Wi-Fi café) of this non-profit arts space was realised through community effort.

Critics’ choice

Cella Septichora Dóm tér (224 755/ www.septichora.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft1,200, concs Ft600. The Cella is housed in a modern museum structure built to protect three ancient burial chambers: the Peter & Paul and wine pitcher burial chambers, and the octagonal burial chapel. These fourth-century finds are accessible via underground corridors and staircases branching out from the main chapel and museum entrance. See above.

Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim Széchenyi tér (321 976).

Mon-Fri 10am-noon; Sun noon2pm. Admission by donation. Set on the main square, this is the largest building in Hungary left over from the Turks. The former mosque occupied the site of a Gothic church from 1579 and was converted into a Catholic church when the Turks left. Note, though, the Islamic prayer niche near the main entrance and sundry Islamic features.

Early Christian Mausoleum (Okeresztény Mauzóleum) Szent István tér 12 (224 755). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft600, concs Ft200. Dominating the fourth-century Early Christian cemetery, its upper level visible above ground, this contains the remains of a single-naved burial chapel. The lower level houses a burial chamber adorned with Early Christian symbols.

Tettye sinter caves Tettye tér (211 830/www.ddnp.hu).

Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat, Sun 10am-4pm; after March 14 Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat, Sun 10am-6pm. Admission Ft750, concs Ft550. Over the centuries, this remarkable geological formation was enlarged and later inhabited.

The cave complex above the city in the Mecsek Hills can be visited on twice-hourly 30-minute tours.

Zsolnay Museum See p22.

Attractions

Csontváry Museum Hungary’s key modern painter.

Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim Turkish landmark of the 1500s.

Zsolnay Museum Gem on ‘Museum Street’. See p22.

Basilica (Dóm) Szent István tér (513 030). Mon-Fri 10am-4pm; Sat 10am-2pm; Sun 1-4pm. Admission Ft800, concs Ft500. The iconic Dóm was built under St Stephen in the 11th century. It eventually assumed its current, mainly neo-Romanesque form in 1891.

The four towers, each 60 metres high, are visible around town while the grand interior contains frescoes, carvings and a red marble tabernacle.

24 Time Out Pécs March 2010

Film

Listings The following films are screened in their original language, with Hungarian subtitles:

Movies through the night

Apolló Artmozi Perczel Miklós utca 22 (212 604).

Admission until 5pm Ft500; after 5pm Ft850.

Looking for Eric (UK). Mar 1-3, 4pm.

Welcome (Fr) Mar 1-3, 6pm.

De gronne slagtere (Den) Mar 1-3, 6pm.

The Limits of Control (UK-Sp-Jap) Mar 1-3, 8pm. k Moon (UK) Mar 1-3, 8.15pm; Mar 4-10, 4pm; Mar 8, 8pm.

Film

Moon

Gallic guile Scenes from ‘Un conte de Noël’ (above), and ‘Prête-moi ta main’ (below)

The Night of Cinema showcases six films from around the world, with coffee and croissants laid on for night owls.

The highlight of culturepacked Francophone Week, the Night of Cinema is being staged at the Uránia from 8pm until 8am overnight on March 17.

All in all, six films will be shown, by French, Belgian, Canadian, Romanian and Swiss directors. Englishspeaking cinemagoers shouldn’t feel left out, as three will be presented with English subtitles, and a general festival vibe around this classic cinema may encourage you to stay awhile – plus the event is free.

French coffee and croissants are being laid on for those staying late into the night.

Starting things off will be Arnaud Desplechin’s ‘Un conte de Noël’, a two-and-a-half hour movie made in 2008 revolving

around family relationships at Christmas. French speakers will enjoy one of Desplechin’s most celebrated works selected for Cannes. At 10.30pm, Olivier Ringer’s 90-minute work from 2006, ‘Pom le poulain’ is set in the forest of the Ardennes. Both the above films have Hungarian subtitles.

For English speakers, the night starts just after midnight with Emile Gaudreault’s ‘De père en flic’ (‘From Father to Cop’), a Canadian film made last year. In this comedy, Jacques and his son Marc are two policemen sick of the sight of each other, but who must pull together to rescue a colleague kidnapped by a biker gang. At 2am, Andrei Gruzniczki’s ‘L’autre Irène’ (‘The Other Irène’) also carries English subtitles. Only recently made in Romania, it

centres on Aurel, a security guard in a department store, whose wife goes to work in Cairo. The plot turns on a phone call Aurel takes informing him of her suicide.

Afterwards comes Eric Lartigau’s ‘Prête-moi ta main’ focuses on a dissatisfied bachelor, before the closing film of the night, Jean-Stéphane Bron’s ‘The Way I Look at You’, from 2004. Set in the car of a driving school, it features five couples from different backgrounds with equally different reasons to obtain their driving licence. This will also be subtitled in English.

Ticket prices vary from Ft750 for one film to Ft1,750 for all six. The three with English subtitles would cost Ft1,450.

Uránia Cinema, Hungária út 19 (www.af.org.hu).

Panique au village (Fr-Bel-Lux) Mar 1-10, 4pm; Mar 25-31, 4pm. k Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (Fr) Mar 4-10, 5.45pm; Mar 4-7, 9 &10, 8pm; Mar 11-17, 3.45pm & 6pm; Mar 19-24, 8pm. k Das weisse Band (It-Ger-FrAus) Mar 4-17, 7.30pm.

La teta asustada (Sp-Peru) Mar 11-17, 3.30pm.

Fish Tank (UK) Mar 11-17, 5.15pm; Mar 18-24, 3.30pm & 5.45 pm.

The Bad Lieutenant: Port of Call – New Orleans (US) Mar 11-17, 8pm.

Tamo i ovde (Serb-US) Mar 25-31, 5.15pm.

Milarepa (Bhutan) Mar 25-31, 6.30pm.

Agora (Sp) Mar 25-31, 8pm.

Civil Közösségek Háza Szent István tér 17. Free. k Das Leben der Anderen (Ger) Mar 10, 5pm.

Uránia mozi Hungária út 19 (511 732).

Admission Ft750. k Das weisse Band (It-Ger-FrAus) Mar 1, 8pm.

The Imaginarium of Dr Parnassus (Fr-Can) Mar 1-3, 4pm &8pm.

Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (Fr) Mar 8, 8pm.

O’Horten (Nor) Mar 15, 8pm. k Taking Woodstock (US) Mar 18-21, 6pm; Mar 22-24, 4pm.

The Wolfman (UK-US) Mar 18-21, 8pm; Mar 22,10pm; Mar 24, 8pm.

Alle Anderen (Ger) Mar 22-24, 6pm.

Lost Persons Area (Bel-Fr) Mar 25-31, 6pm.

Up in the Air (US) Mar 25-31, 8pm.

California Dreamin’ (Rom) Mar 29, 8pm.

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 25

Music & Nightlife Hungary’s own jazz diva hits town

Music & Nightlife

tone always impressed me.

Billie Holiday is still a big favourite. Also Dee Dee Bridgewater. I saw here live and she was fantastic, with amazing energy.’

A Japanese distributor imported 200 records and ten days later asked for 300 more

Along with the headline acts from across the Atlantic taking part in the International Jazz Weekend, one home-grown talent stands out: Veronika Harcsa.

Aniko Fenyvesi talked to her.

Veronika Harcsa expresses her love of jazz quite simply.

‘From the very first moment, I found jazz really exciting because spontaneity is important to me,’ said the singer. ‘I can express what the goingson of that day or what I’m most interested in.’

First trained as a pianist then a saxophonist, Harcsa was one of two students of her

year admitted to the Jazz Faculty at the Franz Liszt Music Academy. ‘Yes, I graduated in jazz vocal,’ she says.

‘Many categorise me as a jazz singer but I don’t think so. I’ve always liked all kinds of music.’

Harcsa formed her eponymous quartet in 2005, releasing ‘Speak Low’ while still at the Academy. Her style was

26 Time Out Pécs March 2010

something distinct: nu jazz, as she likes to describe it, with a little free jazz thrown in.

Leaning towards Nina Simone, a little raspy with a slight, attractive accent in her English, hers is a romantic, vocal-driven jazz. ‘Wherever I studied singing it was always in English. The language of jazz is English,’ says Harcsa.

‘Nina Simone’s extraordinary

In 2006 Harcsa began to write her own songs. Her quartet released two more albums, all original songs, all in English.

‘The songs that I’ve written so far wouldn’t really work in Hungarian,’ she says.

For reasons unknown to her (‘I didn’t even have a myspace page’), she became big in Japan. ‘A distributor who imported European jazz found us. I sent them 200 records and ten days later they said they had sold out and for me to send 300 more.’ A frequent visitor to European jazz festivals, Harcsa now works with three main bands and has not been afraid to try ska, electronic and alternative pop.

The Quartet will be playing stuff from the last two albums, plus a surprise or two. ‘Last time we played a song by the Beatles, before that by the Clash. Since Januar y we’ve been working with our band Bin-Jip. This will be the first Quartet show this year so we’ll have momentum.’

March 20, 7.30pm, PTE ÁOK Aula, Szigeti út 12.

Listings Preview Kati Kovács & Qualitons Pécsi Est Café, Mar 11 8pm

Could there be a more perfect pairing in pop?

Budapest beat funk group the Qualitons, who lifted their name from the retro Hungarian record label, accompany 1960s’ songstress Kati Kovács in a faithful reworking of classic hits circa 1968.

Having played sell-out shows in Budapest, the combo play the Pécsi Est Café on March 11.

Kovács rose to fame on Hungary’s version of ‘Opportunity Knocks’, ‘Ki mit tud?’, and continued to churn out hits for four decades or more. There isn’t a Hungarian alive who can’t sing along to at least half-a-dozen of her numbers. Think Petula Clark and then double it.

Although turning 65 last October, Kovács appears busier than ever. While she was churning out those hits, she was beginning to set up an impressive movie career from 1968 onwards. She also worked with the classic rock band Lokomotiv GT and was involved in Hungary’s version of ‘Godspell’ in 1972.

The Qualitons have an EP hot off the presses, and a fulllength album due out in April.

‘The music from the 1960s is

really good and it’s underrepresented in this country, which is why we formed the band,’ explains ‘band captain’ Kanada Káosz. ‘Not a whole lot has happened since Kraftwerk, people are just repeating themselves,’ he adds. But this group isn’t just about rehashing songs from their favourite decades.

‘It has more to do with the tonal quality. We like the way music sounded in the ’60s and ’70s and that’s the template we use.

But the songs we create are our own,’ comments drummer Hunor G Szabó.

‘Not a whole lot has happened since Kraftwerk were around’ The Qualitons have only been around since the end of 2008 but long enough to get picked up by German label Tramp Records and be invited to festivals around Europe, even as far afield as Russia.

Their new album ‘Panoramic Tymes’ tests out the boys’ songwriting chops and contains nearly all original material. ‘This is a real exciting compilation,’ concluded Káosz.

Cyrano Cafe & Lounge Czinderi utca 6 (06 30 650 7021 mobile). Small, upscale weekendonly venue. Parties: Mar 5-6, 12-13, 19-20, 26-27 ‘Funky Fever’ – weekend floor fillers.

Ifjúsági Ház Nagy Lajos király útja 13 (211 511). Landmark culture house with a 800-capacity concert hall and smaller adjacent bar venue. Gigs: Mar 6 8pm Félix Lajkó. Brilliant contemporary violinist here accompanied by viola player Antal Brasnyó. Mar 13 8pm Lord. Age-old Magyar rock. Mar 26 6pm Depresszió.

Ten-year anniversary show for these metallists from Debrecen, supported by Horda and Rubicon.

Kino Café Hungária utca 19 (511 732). Louche late-night cinema haunt with a popular, sticky dancefloor, and Zlaty Bazant beers flying out of the busy bar. Essential to any all-night bar crawl. Parties: Mar 6 DJs blnd!, Péló and Sirmo.

Pécsi Est Café Kereskedõk Háza, ground floor, Rákóczi út 46 (06 20 667 8800 mobile/www. pecsiestcafe.hu). Impressive brunch-to-bedtime large-scale operation incorporating a stage, DJ decks, classic Hungarian restaurant and expansive sports bar. Ideal place to catch a band – long bar counter, sharp staff, friendly vibe amid the partyhungry mixed crowd. See p18.

Gigs: Mar 11 Kati Kovács & the Qualitons. Blue-chip beehive-era Magyar pop. See left. Mar 12 Made in Pécs. Local hip-hop acts. Mar 16 Tram des Balkans. Borderline crazy Balkan-klezmer-swing from France.

Mar 17 Dub Lfo, Irie Ites Sound, Irie Maffia Sound System.

International reggae night with bands from Israel, France and Hungary. Mar 23 Carbonfools.

Titusz and his cultish bag of tricks.

Mar 26 Joy Division Isolated.

Tribute band led by famous Magyar figure. Free Parties: Mar 5-6, 12-13, 19-20, 26-27: Kultúrdiszkó Szenes Klub Ifjúság útja 6 (242 553 ex 4476/www.szenesklub. hu). Legendary student venue with a cherished pedigree. It’s a low-frills cellar with a few tables set in a smoky tunnel-like room, with a stage at the back – this is where iconic local band Kispál és a Borz started out. Gigs: Mar 16 The Twist Band. Hungarian underground supergroup. Mar 17 Pál Utcai Fiúk. Cult Hungarian band from the 1980s. Parties: Mar 8 DJ Enikő.

Toxic Club Király utca 2 (www.toxicmusic.hu). Hilarious late-night punk cellar club right by the main square, run by the irrepressible Tony and frequented by regulars out of a Fellini film.

Seems to have a louder-the-better

Félix Lajkó Ifjúsági Ház. Sat Mar 6.

Unmissable mad violinist.

Mystery Gang Toxic Club. Fri Mar 12.

Woo hoo! Magyar rockabilly!

Tram des Balkans Pécsi Est Café. Tue Mar 16.

Wild sounds from France (pic) .

The Twist Band Szenes Klub. Tue Mar 16.

Famous four-piece rock combo. policy on music programming.

Gigs: Mar 6 Watch My Dying.

Balls-out trash/death metal in honour of Women’s Day. Mar 10 Kutyával Őrzött Terület.

Seven-member ska-punk band with original material. Mar 12 Mystery Gang. Disciples of Magyar rockabilly. Mar 20 Rock-on. A long night of live rock; the joke’s in the name. Mar 24 Soundarcade.

Psychedelic, progressive, experimental band from Latvia.

Mar 27 Ichetunder. Popular local heavy metallists. Mar 29 Dirty Sound Magnet. Blues-rock from Sweden.

Free Trafik Perczel M utca 22 (212 672). Quality club, live venue and bar/restaurant in the Apolló Cinema building. Parties: Mar 4, 11, 18, 25. Jazz, soul, funk, dub and poetry. DJs Péló, Bodoo, Pfunk and Pausz.

Zion Pécs Zsolnay V utca 109 (http://zionpecs.blog.hu).

Admirable live venue with a DJ room, rehearsal space and community playroom set up in the former Black Diamond cinema, also once a school. Run by volunteers, it brings a teenage crowd to smoke like beagles and flirt shamelessly. Set in the deserted Zsolnay Quarter, it’s a taxi ride away – there’s a number behind the bar. Check the website for programming – gigs ha.

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 27

Music & Nightlife

Bridging five decades Kati Kovács & Qualitons

Top picks

Performing Arts Performing Arts

Keeping tradition alive

Let’s dance The Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble in action in 2009...

Pécs’s own Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble is giving two anniversary shows at the prestigious National Theatre.

András Papp looks at 55 years of colourful history.

Named after the hills surrounding the town of Pécs, the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble was formed 55 years ago under the wing of award-winning choreographer Antal Simon.

To celebrate, the troup is giving three shows, one at Budapest’s Operetta Theatre, and two special anniversary gala performances at Pécs National Theatre on March 26 and 29.

Originally founded with the aim of preserving and present-

ing Hungarian folk culture, the group has gone through several stages of revival following the modern-day development of directions in folk and dance.

As such, for its anniversary gala shows, three generations of former members will be presenting emblematic choreographies from the past.

The result is an entertaining cultural and anthropological lesson with ageold folk dances The present-day dance group will be revealing the regional and historical layers of Carpathian folk dance through rural dance culture,

28 Time Out Pécs March 2010

using historical excerpts and literary references – resulting in a thoroughly entertaining cultural and anthropological lesson via the traditional folk dance of the region.

Once working with the compositions of founder-choreographer Simon, the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble soon branched out to perform works by István Molnár, Miklós Rábai and Antal Kricskovics. Tours of Europe quickly followed, including appearances at the San Remo

Flower Festival and the Sicilian Agrigento, the start of a long tradition of the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble performing at prestigious events around the world – in 1970, the troupe even visited Vietnam.

The last 18 months have been particularly busy, with appearances at ESDANSA International Festival of Music & Dance in Catalonia, at La Caridad in Spain, in Greece, Croatia and Florence, the latter a performance by Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble soloists accompanied by a full chamber orchestra.

Listings National Theatre of Pécs – Chamber Theatre Színház tér 1 (211 965 / www.pecsinemzetiszinhaz.hu).

Mon Mar 29

Folk Dance Ensemble Association in 1994 and assisting in the setting up of foundations for junior dancers, most notably the one operated by the János Berze Nagy Folk Art School since 2003. With all these in place, a high level of performance is guaranteed and the future of the company is assured.

The gala show features 150 dancers with junior members

Antal ran the group for 15 years until he left to become Artistic Director of the Budapest Dance Ensemble in 1970. First Tibor Somogyi, then István Bodonyi and finally, in 1976, József Bodai led the troupe, Bodai brining in fresh ideas, modernising many of Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble choreographic

styles and setting up junior ensembles to feed into the main group. Touring continued apace – Yugoslavia, Syria, France – before Bodai finally retired as late as 1993.

The current artistic director János Molnár has been in place for the last 17 years, reshaping the organisation as a whole, founding the Mecsek

The Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble now works with some of the most renowned choreographers in the country, regularly invited to interpret both traditional folk pieces and adaptions from Hungarian theatre – the presentation of playwright István Örkeny’s humorous works about the Tót family is a recent celebrated example.

The anniversary gala shows will feature 150 dancers, including junior members.

Audiences can expect plenty of traditional dances such as csárdás and verbunk – as well as a few surprises.

Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble Anniversary Gala Show, Mar 26 & 29, 7pm, Pécs National Theatre, Színház tér 1 (221 1965 /www.pecsi nemzetiszinhaz.hu).

Admission Ft1,000-Ft3,000.

National Theatre of Pécs – Main stage Színház tér 1 (211 965 / www.pecsinemzetiszinhaz.hu).

Fri Mar 5 & Wed Mar 24 Giselle Pécs Ballet.

Choreographer: Balázs Vincze.

Dancers: Írisz Nagy, Edit Domoszlai, Péter Koncz, Márton Szabó, Dávid Kristóf, Zsolt Molnár, Szilvia Balássy, István Dóri, Dóra Uhrik. 7pm. Ft1,250Ft2,000. Giselle is about love, treachery, madness, vengeance and forgiveness. This is the most famous and known romantic ballet, telling the story of Giselle, an innocent peasant girl who is being mislead, betrayed and left by a rich noble man. Giselle loses her mind and commits suicide, entering the world of the Wilis, a group of evil female spirits. How can Giselle’s innocence remain intact in such a world?

Thur Mar 25 Giselle Pécs Ballet. Choreographer: Balázs Vincze. Dancers: Írisz Nagy, Edit Domoszlai, Péter Koncz, Márton Szabó, Dávid Kristóf, Zsolt Molnár, Szilvia Balássy, István Dóri, Dóra Uhrik. 3pm. Ft1,250Ft2,000.

Fri Mar 26 & Mon Mar 29 Gala celebration of the Mecsek Folk Dance Ensemble. Ft1,000Ft3,000. See left.

March 2010 Time Out Pécs 29

Performing Arts

...and in 1966

Bill T & Arnie Zane dance ensemble 7.30pm. Ft1,500. The ensemble was formed after eleven years of co-operation between Bill T Jones and Arnie Zane; during this period the couple has redefined modern American dance. Their new production celebrates Abraham Lincoln’s 200th birthday by reflecting on Lincoln’s heritage as well as the nature of history.

The video compositions of Janet Wong work to refresh the viewer’s historical knowledge. The most original music, combining classical and folk elements, is performed by Chris Lancaster on electric cello, Jerome Begin on piano and Lisa Komara as soprano.

My Pécs András Lovasi – musician

Time Out Editor András Papp Editor at Large Peterjon Cresswell Deputy Editor Aniko Fenyvesi Art Director Gabor Ocsovai Contributors Zoltán Győrffy, Andor Harci, Balázs Pesti Photo credits József Hubay p3 (bottom left), 6 (main), 7 (wall of padlocks), 8-9, 13 (main), 14-15, 26 (main), 30. Balázs Pesti p15 (top right). Lajos Kalmár p18, 21. Other photos were provided by featured establishments and artists.

Cover Photography: Lajos Kalmár Letters to the editor should be sent to: info@timeoutpecs.hu Sales Manager Gabriella Rostás gabriella.rostas@timeoutpecs.hu

András Lovasi, frontman of two rock bands from Pécs (Kispál és a Borz, Kiscsillag) is well known all over the country.

His personality and artistic work are as inseparable to Pécs as the mosque on Széchenyi tér.

What is the first thing that comes into your mind hearing the word Pécs?

The view of the city looking down from Havi Hill. It was my ritual to take girls up there when I was young. We used to look at the city from there. László Rátgéber (top local basketball coach) lives up there.

Do you have any other favourite spots?

Sure, there’s a lot.

As a teenager it was my favourite routine to wander around parts like Daindol, Makár and the outskirts where families have second homes. It is interesting that now these neighbourhoods are residential areas.

Back in those days most of the parties were held there, mainly because people could cause less damage. Pubs used to close at 10pm, but the Tavasz presszó was open until two in the morning. The bigger parties were held there.

Orfű, the resort near Pécs, is connected to your name.

I grew to like Orfű because of its rusticity and tranquillity. Until recently we did not even have a fence around our house, there wasn’t anything to be afraid of.

You’re also connected to Gyükés in Pécs Yes, they’re building a rehearsal room there. I was fed up with being kicked out of every rehearsal studio sooner or later.

What changes in town don’t you like?

Let me start with those that I do like, such as the fact that downtown is now expanding out to the east. However, I do not like it that shops are disappearing from the city centre. I don’t like the role of the Árkád shopping mall as an entertainment centre, something that was developed by damaging Czinderi utca and around. I’m not saying that I want the bordello back that used to stand there, but I rather miss those functions that these days are fulfilled by Sétatér.

Favourite pubs?

Let’s see. When I was young, we used to go to places where they served people under age. I still get nostalgic feelings about the Csillag restaurant, one or two wine cellars, for example the István-pince, the Tavasz presszó at dawn, the Rézangyal, the Áfium restaurant and the Dante Café.

Favourite restaurant?

The best steak tartare is served in the Barbakán, Replay has the best fruit soup with sweet cheese dumplings. I like the Csillag with its traditional waiters and the Tettye restaurant. I like Swabian reliability, in any case.

What was your best gig last year?

We performed in a church at the Ördögkatlan Festival, using early Christian texts. That was great. And the Fishing On Orfű festival – although being there is pretty much all I remember.

What are you looking forward to most in 2010?

Fishing On Orfű again. I’d also like to know which one of the promised buildings will be ready, what we will be saying about this year a year from now – and how far the city will be developed.

Pubs used to close at 10pm but the Tavasz presszó opened til two

30 Time Out Pécs March 2010

Distribution Manager János Haász janos.haasz@timeoutpecs.hu Publisher Daniel Bodnar Publication Management Balázs Radovits Advertising sales 06 20 439 7218 Published by DEG Lapkiadó Kft. in a collaboration with Est Lapok Kft. (46 Rákóczi út 7621, Tel: +36 72 214 631, Fax: +36 +36 72 214 631) members of Est Media Group (74-76 Lajos utca, Budapest 1036, Tel: +36 1 436 5000, Fax: +36 1 436 5001) Time Out Pécs is published under the authority and in collaboration with Time Out International Limited, London UK. Time Out ® is the registered trademark of Time Out Group Limited, London UK. The right to use the trademark, name and logo of “Time Out” are licensed from Time Out Group Limited London UK. © 2010 Printed by Duplex Rota Kft, Északmegyer dűlő 4. 7631 Pécs, Time Out Pécs is published the first week of every month. Advertising deadline is the second Friday of every month.

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